We open a workshop for the manufacture of products from tin. How to make gutters and roofing elements from sheet metal with your own hands

Tin is a material that belongs to rolling products. This is a variety. After rolling, the sheet is treated with anti-corrosion agents.

For heating equipment, you can independently make tin pipes for the chimney. This material elastic, so processed by hand. In addition, steel is characterized by rigidity and strength, so tin products of special strength are made from it.

What tin to choose

Before making a pipe out of tin, a suitable one is selected. For chimneys, thin sheet metal coated with a special compound is recommended.

The tin pipe removes smoke and increases draft.

Tin is black and white. The black material type is thin sheet and cold rolled steel. Products are made from steels of various grades. The material is offered by manufacturers in sheets or rolls.

Tinplate is a material coated with tin on both sides, which is processed by electrolytic and hot tinning methods. This material is a low carbon and thin sheet.

The processing method gives the steel resistance to rust and ductility.

Production is accompanied by the control of the composition of substances. The method of processing and content affects the receipt of material of different grades.

The white type of tinplate is treated to improve the surface for adhesion with lacquer coatings.

Lacquered tin is used. The varnishing process is used to protect surfaces from external factors.

Black and white type of material is of the following types:

• the single-rolled sheet is a mild steel product that is processed by cold rolling to the desired thickness;
• the metal of double rolling after the first rolling procedure is subjected to the second rolling and special lubrication, which reduces the thickness of the product.

The material is classified according to the degree of hardness and the amount of tin used.

Tin pipe has technically universal qualities.

What tools are needed

Before doing tin work, it is worth picking up a set of materials and tools. You will need equipment for tin work.

You will need a sheet of thin tin. To make the pipe even, a material with a smooth structure and clear corners is taken. Do not use sheet with torn edges.

Cutting the material does not require effort, but getting started, it is worth preparing the following tinsmith tools:

1. Metal scissors are used to cut the segment into blanks.
2. A mallet or rubber mallet is used that does not leave dents. The weight of the tool is selected heavy, but the impact force is controlled.
3. Pliers or tongs are used to make bends.
4. Recommended machines for tin work. A workbench is suitable, which allows you to evenly position the sheet and mark it out.
5. For calibration, a thick-walled tube and a corner are used, which is mounted to the edge of the workbench. The corner is chosen massive, since the metal is bent on it. The pipe helps in the manufacture of the longitudinal seam of the line.
6. A thin steel rod is used as a marker. It is made independently. To do this, sharpen a nail.
7. A measurement tool is recommended. Roulettes and squares are suitable for this.

You will need a round part to assemble the product. For this, a pipe with a cross section of 90 mm and not too long is recommended.

Instructions for making a tin pipe for ventilation with a do-it-yourself cap

To make a pipe from a sheet of iron means to perform a sequence of actions. The work consists of simple steps. First, preparation takes place, which consists of marking parts and cutting blanks.

At the stage of forming the body of the structure, an element of circular section is created. When connecting, it is required to fix the elements into one product.

You can make markup and blanks in several stages:

1. The tin sheet is placed on the surface without joints. Suitable for this flooring or workbench.
2. A segment is marked from the upper edge, which is equal in size to the future highway. Marking is performed by a marking device. Manufacturing also takes place.
3. A line is drawn through the mark. In this case, a square is used.
4. From the line, the width of the segment is marked, which is equal to the cross section of the pipe. 15 mm per joint is added to the obtained value.
5. The resulting markings are connected, and the workpiece is cut.

When marking, it is worth considering the size of the product. Width is the size of the diameter plus one and a half additional centimeters. The length of the workpiece must be greater than the straight section of the structure.

Do-it-yourself work with tin is done as follows:

1. The folds are bent to the surface of the sheet at a right angle. Previously, line markings are made under them. mallet. The sheet is placed on the edge of the table with a descent to desired length and with the help of a rubber mallet, a bend is made. Work is carried out along the entire length of the product.
2. Do-it-yourself tin pipe involves another bend on the fold. This does the markup.
3. A round element is used to construct the pipe. On it is a galvanized sheet, which is given a rounded shape. In this case, the bent ends of the pipe are connected.

The bends are made so that the mallet fits exactly on the surface of the corner. The blows are made precise and clear, but not strong, otherwise the seam will flatten.

Manufacturing tin products ends with joining. In this case, the edges are aligned, and

seam is attached. Wherein horizontal section bends down and covers the edge. The protruding seam is bent to the surface with a mallet. The bend is performed away from the l-shaped fold. If you do otherwise, then water will penetrate inside.

Do-it-yourself tin products need to be connected. The edges are fastened with aluminum or steel rivets.

1. Holes for rivets are made every three centimeters.
2. The edges bend towards each other.
3. The workpiece is folded back so that the edges are on the outside of the structure.
4. The edges are mounted with rivets.

To facilitate the connection of the structure, the element in the wide side should be slightly flared. To ensure rigidity from the edges of the product. Proper marking contributes to ease of docking with other elements, even factory-made.

Similar products are used for gutters, ventilation systems and chimney structures.

Features of working with tin: how to bend a sheet of iron and cut it

To create products from tin with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with some of the nuances of working with this material. Recommendations will help facilitate installation and create a design in the shortest possible time.

1. To give the tin sheet the necessary shape will allow an element of the appropriate configuration. Flexion performs tapping using a hammer.
2. To make the fold even, tapping is carried out close to each other.
3. Facilitate the cutting of a workpiece from steel will help special loop leather. This element is mounted on scissors and put on fingers.
4. After cutting, the edge is processed with a plow, which is prepared from hacksaw material.
5. Tin products sometimes need to be cut. This is done to give a curly shape to the product. This procedure is performed with a can opener.

In order for the material to be cut well with a knife, it is filed with a hacksaw, and then a knife or scissors is used.

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Tin work is simple and you can do it yourself. The ability to make such a design is useful in everyday life. A tin pipe is made simply, the main thing is to know certain nuances of the process.

Despite the many different tin blanks that are sold in building supermarkets, sometimes when installing gutters, ventilation or other similar engineering systems there is a need to install parts of a non-standard configuration or size. Therefore, many home craftsmen are interested in how to make a pipe out of tin with their own hands.

Features of the material used

Before starting work, it is advisable to carefully familiarize yourself with the features of the material from which the pipe is supposed to be constructed. Tin is an ordinary sheet of steel with a thickness of 0.1 to 0.7 mm. It is formed by sequential rolling of the billet through the rollers of the rolling mill.

However, the processing does not end there. In order to protect the resulting sheet from corrosion, it must be coated with a layer of another substance that does not oxidize in air.

As a result, the warehouse finished products steel sheets arrive, the width of which, according to GOST, can be 51.2-100 cm, coated with an ultra-thin layer of zinc, chromium or tin.

Note!
The material is very plastic, which allows you to process it at home.
On the other hand, when arranging stiffeners, you can get a structure that is as strong as thicker steel.

Given that the price of tinplate is also low, it is often used to make a variety of various parts complex shape.

Required Tools

Cutting and bending sheets of tin does not require much effort. Nevertheless, it will be useful to arm yourself with special tools and devices, a list of which is given in the table.

Work process

Let's start making a pipe from tin with our own hands.

The whole process can be divided into several main stages:

1. Preparation. This includes marking the product and cutting out individual blanks from a piece of tin.
2. Molding. At this stage, the initial formation of a round tube takes place.
3. Compound. Here it is necessary to finally sew the parts into the finished product.

Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Step 1. Preparation

Complex instructions are not needed here, everything is very simple:

• the sheet is placed on a flat area (workbench or floor);
• a segment equal to the length of the future pipe is measured from the upper edge (marks can be made with a marker or a special marker);
• then a line is drawn through the mark using a square, perpendicular to the upper edge of the sheet;
• on the upper edge and the line drawn at the bottom, the width of the workpiece is measured, which is equal to the circumference of the pipe (moreover, 15 mm must be added to this parameter to arrange the joint);
• all marks are connected, after which the workpiece is cut along the resulting lines.

Advice!
Knowing the diameter of the pipe, you can easily calculate the circumference (width of the workpiece) using the well-known formula L \u003d π D, where π is 3.14, D is the diameter of the future part.

Step 2. Shaping

After receiving the workpiece, it is necessary to form a round profile of the future pipe.

Here the work is done like this:

1. The line for the folds is marked. Its width is 0.5 cm on one side and 1 cm on the other. The folds are bent at an angle of 90 degrees to the plane of the tin sheet. To do this, you can use a steel corner and a mallet.

A sheet of tin is placed on the edge of the table with an offset to the desired length, then with blows rubber mallet its edge is neatly bent. At the end of the work, it should be in close contact with the lower plane of the corner.

Work should be done evenly along the entire length of the workpiece. To facilitate the procedure, you can use pliers.

1. Then, on a centimeter fold, another bend is made in the shape of the letter G. The upper part (its width should be 0.5 cm) must be made parallel to the sheet of tin. It is advisable to pre-mark and for this bend.

1. Upon completion of work with folds, we proceed to work on the pipe itself. For this, a pre-stocked round part is used. Having placed a sheet of tin on it, you should use a mallet to give it a rounded shape. This should be done gradually along the entire length of the sheet until the bent edges meet.

Step 3. Docking

It remains only to combine the edges and fasten the seam. To do this, the horizontal section of the larger fold is bent down, covering the opposite edge. Then the protruding seam is bent to the plane of the pipe with a mallet.

For self-production of a round pipe, you will need thin-sheet steel, black or galvanized, with a thickness of 0.45 - 0.5 - 0.55 mm . This thickness of the material is sufficient when installing low-pressure or household ventilation, exhaust from gas equipment, drainage system. On a sheet of metal with a sharp metal scriber, using a long ruler, draw a pattern for the future pipe. Measure the length of the workpiece equal to the length of the pipe. If the pipe will be inserted into the next one, then add the length of the "bolt" to the length of the workpiece (for example, 7 cm ). Calculate the width of the pattern by multiplying 3.14 by the inner diameter of the pipe in millimeters: D * 3.14 (mm). To the resulting size, add allowances for the seam connection - according to 14 mm on both sides, or 28 mm to the width of the pattern on either side. The final formula for the width of the workpiece: 3.14D + 28 (mm). Cut out the drawn blank from the sheet with metal scissors.

Cut along the length of the workpiece and bendin opposite directions, two edges for the seam connection of the pipe. Folded Edge Width 7 mm . These edges can be bent and oblique, for example: for one end of the future pipe 7 mm , and for its other end - 9 mm (or 6 by 8 mm). Then the pipes will be easily and tightly enough inserted one into the other. The sequence for preparing the seam connection is shown in the figure:

To give a straight sheet of tin the shape of a pipe, you need a thick-walled metal pipe 80 - 100 mm in diameter, suspended horizontally from a board or a flat wall in two "hooks" of sheet steel strips, as shown in the following figure. Fill the pipe pattern with prepared folds into the gap between the board and the suspended pipe, and gradually bend around the mandrel pipe until desired shape, after each deflection, moving (pushing) the workpiece down:

Remove the workpiece from the fixture, check how correctly and evenly it is "rolled" into the shape of the pipe. Fasten the folds into the lock. Make sure that both seam edges fit securely into each other along the entire length of the joint. Put the seamed workpiece (or part of it) on the section of the rail extended beyond the workbench. Seal the pipe seam with a wooden mallet. Settle the material along the entire seam, that is, cut it with the edge of a hammer or mallet, creatingthus an additional lock that will not allow the seam edges to move out of the joint. The reliability of the assembly can be insured with a rivet.

Irregularities and possible ribbing homemade pipe straighten on rail wooden mallet- mallet. Sheet steel for the manufacture of tubular products, choose one on the surface of which does not remain at all, or an inconspicuous mark remains when it is bent and unbent. This property of the metal can be checked by slightly bending and immediately straightening the tin in the corner of the sheet. If for the manufacture of the pipe is used roll material, or a galvanized sheet, clearly cut off from the roll, then it should be cut so that the direction of bending, rolling of the workpiece coincides with the direction of the rolled roll - this will reduce the manifestation of ribs along the deflection lines. Optimum pipe length 1m or 1.25 meters , which coincides with the transverse dimensions of standard tin sheets.

Mechanized production of pipes from thin sheet steel is carried out on machines, different ways, which are briefly described on the page.

Galvanized steel pipes are an integral part of the drainage system of any home. Purchasing ready-made gutters is a rather costly business. How you can make your own downpipes and thereby significantly save cash, described in this article.

Purchase finished elements drainage system is quite expensive. So, for example, a gutter made of galvanized metal costs about 100 rubles / m, a drain funnel - 160 rubles / piece, a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm - 110 rubles / m, an elbow for a downpipe - 110 rubles / piece. If you calculate the cost of all the elements necessary to equip the gutter system for the whole house, you get a rather impressive amount. The natural question is how to save money? The answer is simple - do all the elements with your own hands.

Let's count. For the downpipe, galvanized iron is required. The price for a sheet of 2500x1250 mm is 600 rubles. To make a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, a strip of metal 340 mm wide is needed - this is, in fact, the circumference of a circle with a diameter of 100 mm, plus bends. From one sheet comes 7 strips with this width. We get: 600 / 7 \u003d 85 rubles. for a pipe 1250 mm long, or 68 rubles / m - the cost of one meter of galvanized pipe. Save more than 60%! On other elements it will be even more.

If the above calculations convinced you of the need to learn self-manufacturing galvanized pipes and other elements from sheet metal So let's start learning. You need to start with the simplest - with pipes. How this is done will be discussed in this article.

Necessary tools and materials

In order to make a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, we need the following tools and materials:

1. The mallet is wooden or rubber. Generally speaking, the quality of this tool will primarily depend on the quality finished product. The mallet should be heavy enough, but so that it is easy to control the force of impact, not very hard, but at the same time dense enough.
2. Metal scissors. Any will do, the main thing is that it is convenient for them to cut metal on large planes.
3. A metal corner with a length of at least 1 m, installed on the edge of the table-workbench. It is on it that the metal will be bended, so it must be stable and massive enough.
4. Steel pipe with a diameter of 60-90 mm, fixed horizontally - "gun". It will be used to assemble products. Accordingly, its length should also not be less than 1 m.
5. Ruler.
6. Scribe for metal. Any sharpened metal rod will do, up to a large nail.
7. Actually, the sheet of galvanized metal with a thickness of 0.5 mm.

We make a pipe from galvanized iron with a diameter of 100 mm

1. We cut off a blank from a solid sheet of metal with a width of 340 mm on one side and 330 mm on the other. The strip is narrowed so that the finished pipe enters the next one according to the “father-mother” principle.

It has washed away immediately to mark the entire sheet and set aside segments on each side in turn - on the one hand, 340 mm, 330 mm, 340 mm, 330 mm, and so on, on the other, respectively, 330 mm, 340 mm, 330 mm, 340 mm. If it is not planned to connect finished pipes to each other or other elements, then mark out rectangles with sides of 340 mm.

2. We begin to make seams for the pipe on both meter sides. To do this, on a metal corner, we bend the edges of the sheet with a mallet by 7 mm on both sides, 90 ° in different directions relative to each other.

3. We turn the workpiece over, with the bent corner up and with a mallet we achieve an angle of approximately 130-150 °.

4. We make one more bend. The workpiece should protrude 1 cm from the corner. With a mallet we tap along the entire length of the corner. The blows must be strong, tight and confident. At the same time, the mallet must necessarily lie clearly on the plane of the corner, without deviating either to the left or to the right, otherwise the seam will simply flatten.

5. As a result, you get a sheet with such bends along the edges:

6. We crimp the workpiece around the “gun” pipe with our hands.

7. We hook both bends for each other.

8. We put the workpiece on the “gun” pipe and beat with a mallet at the place of adhesion of the corners until they are completely flattened.

9. The pipe is ready.

10. Ideally, you can slightly flare the pipe on the wide side to facilitate mating with each other, and roll rings at both ends to ensure rigidity, however, the pipe is still serviceable in the resulting form. If no mistakes are made when marking, then it will easily dock with other elements, including factory-made ones.

In the end, it should be noted that drains are not the only application of such pipes. Ventilation systems, various chimneys - galvanized pipes will find their application everywhere, so the ability to make them with your own hands will serve you in good stead more than once in saving money.

Galvanized steel pipes are an integral part of the drainage system of any home. Purchasing ready-made gutters is a rather costly business. How you can make downpipes yourself and thereby significantly save money, is described in this article.

Buying ready-made elements of the drainage system is quite expensive. So, for example, a gutter made of galvanized metal costs about 100 rubles / m, a drain funnel - 160 rubles / piece, a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm - 110 rubles / m, an elbow for a downpipe - 110 rubles / piece. If you calculate the cost of all the elements necessary to equip the gutter system for the whole house, you get a rather impressive amount. The natural question is how to save money? The answer is simple - do all the elements with your own hands.

Let's count. For the downpipe, galvanized iron is required. The price for a sheet of 2500x1250 mm is 600 rubles. To make a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, a strip of metal 340 mm wide is needed - this is, in fact, the circumference of a circle with a diameter of 100 mm, plus bends. From one sheet comes 7 strips with this width. We get: 600 / 7 \u003d 85 rubles. for a pipe 1250 mm long, or 68 rubles / m - the cost of one meter of galvanized pipe. Save more than 60%! On other elements it will be even more.

If the above calculations have convinced you of the need to learn how to independently manufacture galvanized pipes and other sheet metal elements, then let's get down to learning. You need to start with the simplest - with pipes. How this is done will be discussed in this article.

Necessary tools and materials

In order to make a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, we need the following tools and materials:

1. The mallet is wooden or rubber. Generally speaking, the quality of the finished product will primarily depend on the quality of this tool. The mallet should be heavy enough, but so that it is easy to control the force of impact, not very hard, but at the same time dense enough.
2. Metal scissors. Any will do, the main thing is that it is convenient for them to cut metal on large planes.
3. A metal corner with a length of at least 1 m, installed on the edge of the table-workbench. It is on it that the metal will be bended, so it must be stable and massive enough.
4. Steel pipe with a diameter of 60-90 mm, fixed horizontally - "gun". It will be used to assemble products. Accordingly, its length should also not be less than 1 m.
5. Ruler.
6. Scribe for metal. Any sharpened metal rod will do, up to a large nail.
7. Actually, the sheet of galvanized metal with a thickness of 0.5 mm.

We make a pipe from galvanized iron with a diameter of 100 mm

1. We cut off a blank from a solid sheet of metal with a width of 340 mm on one side and 330 mm on the other. The strip is narrowed so that the finished pipe enters the next one according to the “father-mother” principle.

It has washed away immediately to mark the entire sheet and set aside segments on each side in turn - on the one hand, 340 mm, 330 mm, 340 mm, 330 mm, and so on, on the other, respectively, 330 mm, 340 mm, 330 mm, 340 mm. If it is not planned to connect finished pipes to each other or other elements, then mark out rectangles with sides of 340 mm.

2. We begin to make seams for the pipe on both meter sides. To do this, on a metal corner, we bend the edges of the sheet with a mallet by 7 mm on both sides, 90 ° in different directions relative to each other.

3. We turn the workpiece over, with the bent corner up and with a mallet we achieve an angle of approximately 130-150 °.

4. We make one more bend. The workpiece should protrude 1 cm from the corner. With a mallet we tap along the entire length of the corner. The blows must be strong, tight and confident. At the same time, the mallet must necessarily lie clearly on the plane of the corner, without deviating either to the left or to the right, otherwise the seam will simply flatten.

5. As a result, you get a sheet with such bends along the edges:

6. We crimp the workpiece around the “gun” pipe with our hands.

7. We hook both bends for each other.

8. We put the workpiece on the “gun” pipe and beat with a mallet at the place of adhesion of the corners until they are completely flattened.

9. The pipe is ready.

10. Ideally, you can slightly flare the pipe on the wide side to facilitate mating with each other, and roll rings at both ends to ensure rigidity, however, the pipe is still serviceable in the resulting form. If no mistakes are made when marking, then it will easily dock with other elements, including factory-made ones.

In the end, it should be noted that drains are not the only application of such pipes. Ventilation systems, various chimneys - galvanized pipes will find their application everywhere, so the ability to make them with your own hands will serve you in good stead more than once in saving money.