The garage, which houses a locksmith's workbench and related tools, transforms from a place to store a car into a full-fledged workshop. Using this equipment, you can perform a variety of repair and household work, repair household appliances and design furniture.
In this article we will talk about how to make a workbench with your own hands. Their varieties and design will be considered, a list of necessary tools and materials will be given, and step-by-step instructions for performing the work will be presented.
1 What is a workbench?
A workbench is a table designed for manual or tool processing of parts made of wood and steel, on which you can carry out electromechanical and any types of installation work. To expand the functionality, the workbench can be equipped with auxiliary devices - a vice and stops, it is also useful to have compartments (shelves, drawers) for storing tools and accessories.
The standard height of the workbench varies between 90-100 cm (depending on the height of the master), the width is 70-80 cm, the length is from 120 to 150 cm. There are also adjustable work tables, the height of which can be changed in the range of 50-150 cm - they are more convenient, but it is quite difficult to make such a workbench with your own hands.
There are 3 types of workbenches:
- carpentry;
- carpenter;
- locksmith.
A home-made locksmith-type workbench consists of a frame (made of a square section profile) and a wooden table top 25-30 mm thick. A strong tabletop is a must locksmith workbench, for additional protection it is desirable to cover it with a sheet of galvanized metal 1-2 mm thick. In this case, the table top will be able to withstand hammer blows and other mechanical influences without any problems.
Other types of workbenches are fundamentally different from the considered design - the carpenter's table has a large length (up to 6 meters), it is equipped with special stops for fixing workpieces. Dimensions and device of the workbench carpentry type similar to a locksmith, but its countertop is designed for manual work and does not imply the possibility of a variety of mounting workpieces, which limits the variability of the use of power tools.
1.1 Workbench Making Guide (video)
2 We make a workbench in the garage with our own hands
Since the locksmith workbench is the most versatile and compact option, it makes sense to use it for installation on a balcony or in a garage. Typical designs there are a lot of such tables, some schemes are given in this article, however, the dimensions and design of the table are best selected individually. When drawing up a drawing, consider what work will be carried out on the table and what dimensions of the workbench will be optimal for their implementation.
To make a metal workbench with your own hands, you will need the following materials:
- corner 50 × 50 (thickness 5 cm) - length 6.5 meters;
- corner 60 × 40 (3 mm) - 25 m;
- corner 40 × 40 (4 mm) - 7 m;
- metal strip 4 mm - width 45 mm, length 8 m;
- a sheet for a tabletop 2 mm - dimensions 220 * 75 cm and a similar size board 40 mm thick;
- guides and plywood for boxes 15 mm thick (the size depends on the number of boxes);
- self-tapping screws, screws, bolts;
- acrylic paint.
The above materials are for homemade workbench 220 cm long and 70 cm wide. Such dimensions make it possible to optimally distribute equipment on the table top - a vice and circular saw so that they do not interfere with each other when working.
From a power tool for work, you will need a grinder, a jigsaw, a drill, a screwdriver and welding machine. Also prepare a level, tape measure, sandpaper, brushes for paint and a brush for metal.
metal workbench do it yourself - step by step instructions:
- In accordance with the drawing, we cut the steel profile and the strip into segments of the required dimensions. The corner will be used for building power frame, strip - for mounting guides for fastening the side panels of the table.
- Using a welding machine, we connect the power frame, initially welding the upper rectangle of the tabletop - for this, two pipes 220 and 70 cm long are used. Inside the rectangle, transverse stiffeners are welded in increments of 40 cm, and a corner is fixed along the upper end, in which the wooden tabletop will be placed. Further, side legs 90 cm long are welded to the upper part, which are reinforced with belts coming from the central lintels.
- After the base part of the frame is ready, it is necessary to weld the panel for the power tool, it can be made folding, however, the fixed design is more reliable. A corner 220 cm long and four segments of 95 cm each are used as load-bearing elements for the panel. Two of them are fixed in the central part of the frame, two more at the edges, after which a long corner is welded along their upper contour.
- It remains to bring the frame to mind - to load-bearing elements you need to weld strips for further plywood sheathing, then you need to strengthen the frame with jumpers in its corner parts.
- When making a workbench in the garage with your own hands, you can not neglect the installation of boxes, since their presence will make the table more convenient to use. The boxes are made of 15 mm plywood, which is cut to size and connected with screws, guide elements are fixed on the side walls of the structure.
- Before laying the tabletop boards, the wood must be coated with an antiseptic, which will significantly extend its service life. Boards can be laid along or across the frame (depending on their length), after which the surface of the countertop is sanded and covered with a steel sheet, which is fixed with self-tapping screws and painted.
- Next, we install the boxes, fixing them with guides bolted to the table. On the opposite side of the table, you can make several open shelves, they are quite practical and convenient.
An obligatory attribute of a locksmith's table is a vise for a workbench, which are placed in one of the corners of the tabletop. The vise is fastened with anchor bolts, it will be useful to place a 1-2 cm thick steel plate between the vise and the tabletop for more reliable fixation of the tool.
The functionality of such a workbench with a vice can be further expanded by installing a circular or miter saw, stationary jigsaw or drilling machine. Like a vise, each of the tools is mounted in the corner of the desktop.
2.1 Requirements for a homemade workbench
A locksmith's workbench is a design designed to work with cutting power tools and other potentially dangerous equipment, so it can only be operated if the following safety requirements are observed:
- when making a mini-workbench for installation in a small garage or on a balcony, it is necessary to ensure maximum structural stability; if necessary, the table is rigidly fixed to the floor;
- at the corners of the tabletop there should be no sharp edges and protrusions;
- when installing a vibrating tool, it is necessary to use vibration-damping rubber pads;
- workplace should be regularly cleaned of chips and oil stains.
The design of the workbench described in the article, if properly manufactured, is able to withstand a load of over 200 kg. More requirements for desktops can be found in the regulatory documents GOST 20400 and GOST 22046.
If you are not confident in your skill and the presented instructions seem too complicated, the best solution is to purchase a ready-made factory workbench. The world's leading manufacturer of such products is Workbench (Germany), which supplies the market with the widest range of products, which includes large-sized, compact and collapsible workbenches for metalwork, joinery and carpentry.
The cost of Workbench desktops varies in the range of 7-20 thousand rubles, depending on the size and functionality. For domestic use Best suited is the Worckbench 110, a collapsible aluminum table with slide-outs for fixing power tools and accessories that has proven itself among craftsmen around the world.
Every House master knows that a well-equipped workshop with a stable and reliable carpenter's workbench, equipped with all kinds of tools for processing parts, is half the success in the manufacture of wood products. Of course, the desktop can be bought in the distribution network. However, we recommend making it yourself. First, it will allow you to get the product right size and functionality. Secondly, when building a workbench, additional equipment can be placed in the most rational way. Thirdly, the cost of the machine will be much lower than the factory version, which will allow you to buy quality tool. If these arguments gave you a reason to think about making a desktop with your own hands, then our drawings, instructions and recommendations will help you build a solid, reliable and functional carpenter's workbench.
Purpose and design of a typical carpentry workbench
Sturdy and reliable carpentry workbench will provide convenience and comfort during long work with wooden parts
The carpentry workbench, in fact, is massive, reliable table for processing wooden products any size. The main requirements for this type of equipment are strength and stability. In addition, the machine must be equipped with at least a minimum set of fixtures for securing and holding workpieces. The dimensions of the working table are selected depending on the size and weight of the parts to be processed, as well as free space in the workshop or garage. By the way, there are designs of compact workbenches that can be placed even on the balcony.
The design of a carpentry workbench with a type-setting worktop. In the figure: 1 - base or bench; 2 - workbench; 3 - miter box; 4 - coupler; 5 - vice; 6 - support beam
Since the work that is carried out on the carpentry machine is carried out with the help of manual and electric tools, the workbench is made of massive timber and thick boards. By the way, the work surface, or in another way the workbench, is assembled only from hardwood. In the manufacture of countertops, dry oak, beech or hornbeam boards with a thickness of at least 60 mm are used. If the countertop is made of pine, alder or linden, then its surface will wear out quickly and will require periodic updating. Often, a bench cover is assembled from several narrow and thick boards, placing them on edge.
A number of holes made on the working surface of the table allows you to install stop elements for the convenience of processing long wooden workpieces.
In order to facilitate the design support legs the desktop, on the contrary, is made of soft wood. Between themselves, the vertical supports are connected by a longitudinally installed beam to increase the stability of the product.
Typical scheme of a carpentry workbench
A specially designed vise is hung on the front and side of the workbench for fixing workpieces. In addition, on overall machines, separate clamping devices for large and small parts are mounted. The optimal location for the carpentry vice is the left side of the front apron and the near part of the right sidewall.
In the workbench - the space between the supports, under the table top, they often equip convenient shelves and drawers for storing tools and accessories.
For convenience, in the back of the tabletop, a recess is made for fittings and small parts. Often, a recess that is difficult to manufacture is replaced with a frame knocked down from wooden slats.
Types and design
All home-made desktops for carpentry can be divided into three types:
- Mobile workbenches have a weight of up to 30 kg, dimensions of less than 1 m in length and up to 70 cm in width, are equipped with one vice and are made partly from metal elements. Such machines are designed to work with small, light workpieces or minor repairs of wooden products. Mobile desktop is great option with a lack of space and can be installed in any room in the country or on the balcony. Often, mobile workbenches have a folding design.
Homemade carpentry workbench mobile design
If there is no need for a stationary, professional workbench, then for small repair work or making small parts you can refurbish an old desk.
- A stationary carpentry workbench is made with reference to a specific place and is not intended to be moved during operation. Equipment of this type allows you to process parts of any size and weight.
The stationary carpenter's workbench is a reliable, stable structure, equipped in accordance with the preferences of the owner and the features of the room.
- Composite type machine - the most difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, this design, due to its variability, is the most practical and functional structure. If necessary, individual parts of the workbench can be easily replaced, since the elements of the desktop are bolted together.
The composite workbench is a structure that can be adjusted to any requirement.
Project and drawings
When designing a carpentry workbench, the most important criteria are height, configuration and equipment. In addition, it is necessary to take into account who will operate the desktop - left-handed or right-handed.
Considering that it will take a long time to work at a carpentry workbench, the closest attention should be paid to the height of the future structure. For people of average height, experts recommend making a table no higher than 90 cm.
Drawing of a carpentry workbench
When determining the distance from the floor to the countertop, it is best to focus not on the average parameters, but on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is on the same level with the hands. If you calculate this parameter taking into account the thickness of the countertop, then you can work at such a workbench tirelessly for several hours.
The cover of the machine can be made of boards, solid wood or plywood and is a type-setting structure. It is not recommended to use chipboard or OSB for these purposes. Professional carpenters have long identified optimal size countertops - maximum 2 m long and 0.7 m wide. On such a workbench, with the same convenience, you can make a team wooden door, and a small window.
When designing a structure, do not forget about the strength of the supporting frame. For supporting structural elements, a bar with a section of at least 100x100 mm is used. As longitudinal and transverse reinforcing elements, it is allowed to use rails and beams with a smaller section - from 50 - 60 mm or more. The joints of the parts are mounted on spikes or dowels, furniture corners and other fittings are used for strength, and all connections are made using bolts and self-tapping screws. Nails will not be able to provide the required stability and fundamental nature of the structure.
Joiner's workbench. View from above
Often the frame, or otherwise the frame of the workbench, is made of metal. Despite the fact that this material makes it possible to create a height-adjustable structure with less labor, professional carpenters prefer all-wood structures.
Let's take a look at the project carpenter's table¸ made of plywood, or rather from two glued together plywood sheets 1.8 mm thick. The dimensions of the lid are 150x60 cm. The edges of the tabletop are reinforced with plywood strips, which increases its thickness to 72 mm. By the way, the presented dimensions are not a dogma and can be adjusted, if necessary, in accordance with the needs and characteristics of a particular room used as a workshop.
Necessary tools and materials
Plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is a rather expensive material (the price of one sheet measuring 1.5x1.5 m is more than 700 rubles, excluding shipping costs). Our project will require at least two sheets of this material. You can save a little if you buy one, larger sheet with dimensions of 2500x1250 mm. Additionally, if possible, try to purchase scraps of plywood with a width of at least 300 mm, which will be used to reinforce the workbench cover around the perimeter.
Additionally, for the construction of a carpentry machine, you will need:
- wooden beam with a section of at least 100x100 mm - for supports;
- timber or slats with a cross section of at least 60x60 mm - for frame reinforcement elements;
When choosing lumber for a carpentry workbench, carefully inspect the workpieces for knots and cracks. Remember that these parts will work under continuous load; - electric drill with a set of conventional and feather drills;
- pieces of boards with a length of at least 1.5 m for laying under the clamps;
- wood glue. A good result can be obtained by using the domestic adhesive "Moment Joiner";
- furniture bolts with nuts and self-tapping screws;
- Circular Saw;
- joiner's square;
- long rule (at least 2 m);
- construction level;
- a notched trowel with a size of cut sectors of at least 3 mm;
- carpentry clamps.
Clamps required for compressing plywood sheets during gluing must be strong and reliable. If you are a non-professional carpenter and do not have a quality tool, then you can get by with inexpensive clamping devices Chinese production. Of course, the number similar devices should be doubled.
Manufacturing instructions
- To make a countertop, cut two blanks with a circular saw. If you managed to purchase a plywood sheet of maximum length, then you need to saw off one blank 1520 mm long from it. By cutting it in half, you will get two parts 1520x610 mm. After that, as a rule, check the concave and convex sides of each sheet. This will make it possible to correctly orient the sheets when gluing.
High-quality gluing provides clamping of tabletop parts with clamps
To properly glue the plywood sheets, they are folded, turning the convex sides to each other.
- After laying one blank on three parallel-laid boards, apply wood glue to its surface. To do this, use straight and notched trowels. Remember that the work must be carried out very quickly, otherwise the composition will begin to set prematurely. The glue manufacturer Moment Stolyar recommends joining the parts no later than two minutes after the start of applying the composition. Therefore, if you are not sure about the speed of your work, use wood glue, which has no time limits. Of course, the strength of the connection will be slightly reduced, however, even the PVA furniture mix good quality provide an acceptable degree of bonding.
To avoid damage to the workpiece, place under the clamps support boards
- Having laid the second workpiece on top of the first, place support boards around the perimeter of the future table cover and begin to tighten the tabletop with clamps. At the same time, do not forget to control the flatness of the part using the rule. It will not work to tighten the center of the workpiece with clamps, so in this part you can install a load weighing at least 15 - 20 kg.
You can glue plywood sheets into a shield without clamps if you can find the perfect one. flat surface for their laying, as well as a load of sufficient mass.
- After the glue dries, the clamps are removed and proceed to reinforce the side surfaces of the countertop. To do this, strips of plywood 15 cm wide are glued around the entire perimeter of the cover in two layers. When doing this, be sure to check that upper layer completely covered the joints.
Reinforcement of the side parts of the bench table with additional plywood strips
- For trimming the side surfaces of the table, use circular saw. The parquet is carried out smoothly, slowly. It is convenient to use the same rule as a guide. The tabletop is given a size of 1500x600 mm in compliance with right angles, for which they use a joiner's square or a factory corner of a plywood sheet.
- Workbench supports are made of timber with a section of 100x100 mm, connecting them with prolegs and drawers, for which lumber with a cross section of at least 60x60 mm is used. In our case, the height of the machine is 900 mm, however, you can adjust this size to suit your height.
Making a carpentry workbench frame
- The legs are assembled “in a spike” or using dowels, be sure to apply carpentry glue to the parts to be joined.
- When assembling the upper and lower frame of the underlay, scrupulously maintain 90-degree angles between the parts. It will be easier to fulfill this requirement if, at the stage of preparing the parts, their edges are correctly trimmed. The width of the frame of our structure is 900 mm, and the height of the frame is 830 mm, taking into account the distance from the floor to the lower prong of 150 mm.
Holes made in the details will help hide the bolt heads and washers pen drill
If desired, a shelf can be built in the underlay. To do this, a plywood panel is cut out to the size of the lower space, in the corners of which rectangular cutouts are made for the legs of the machine.
Installation of additional equipment
A real carpentry workbench cannot be imagined without fixtures designed to fasten workpieces. For this purpose, a vise is attached to the finished tabletop in such a way that their jaws are flush with the surface of the lid. To properly install the fixture on the workbench, a vice is applied to the machine and the attachment points are marked. After that, holes with a diameter of 12 mm are drilled and the tool is installed on the machine using a bolted connection with an M12 thread. When performing this operation, be sure to mill the holes for the washers and bolt heads.
View finished product with fixed vise
If it is not possible to install a stationary vice, you can do without them by using bench clamps or clamps.
In addition to the vise, stops are provided on the desktop. To do this, a series of holes are drilled in the countertop. Parts made of wood are considered the best stops, since metal fixtures can damage the workpiece. Nests for supporting elements are located at a distance equal to half the stroke of the vise. This will allow you to securely fix the workpiece of any size.
Video: DIY carpentry workbench
Building a carpentry workbench is a rather difficult task. However, personally assembled machine will allow you to work in a convenient, comfortable environment. This requires not only to think over the ergonomics of the workspace and properly prepare the construction project, but also to perform the work in full accordance with the recommendations of professional carpenters. Only then the resulting product will be durable and stable, delighting its owner for many years of service.
Surely, every man in his youth at labor lessons more than once had to make a certain object made of wood, standing idle for more than one hour behind such a device.
And now, as an adult, and creating beautiful and practical woodwork, you are thinking about acquiring your own carpentry workbench. My advice to you is not to spend money, it is better to spend some personal time, getting a quality “workplace” in return.
So, what is a "carpenter's workbench"? It is stable, solid (often made of wood), the purpose of which lies in the processing of various products using manual and mechanized tools.
If you are seriously thinking about making a workbench, you should pay attention that there are several types of them:
Wood or metal?
First of all, before you start creating your own workbench, you should think about what material it will be made of. A wooden base would be appropriate if the intended work zone won't take up much space.
Ideal for countertops laminated chipboard or pressed plywood. For a stationary sample, a combination of planed wooden boards and metal is suitable.
Advice: an old unnecessary table is also well suited for the base, or quality door made from one piece fabric.
It is undesirable to make a workbench from metal, an acceptable compromise would be a wooden lid and a frame with metal cladding.
It is best to use not one or two vices, but as many as possible. With some, fix long boards without much effort, while others are suitable for attaching small parts.
Dimensions and drawing
Before we start manufacturing, it is necessary to think over its design and dimensions, purpose. For the manufacture of parts and assembly of the table, you will need to make a drawing. On it, with an accuracy of a millimeter, we indicate all the data. Further, you will often have to use the drawing during the manufacturing process. individual elements and when assembling the product.
Advice: when drawing up a drawing, be guided by the size of the countertop at 1600x800 and a height of 870 mm.
Tools
What set of tools will the master need:
Of course, the list may vary depending on what material you decide to choose for the base of the workbench, and what design it will be.
Reference: it is extremely important at the very beginning to determine the height of the workbench. Experienced master it will be possible to make a device with adjustable height, the rest are recommended to focus on the distance from the extreme point of the arm bent at the elbow to the floor.
How to do?
Manufacturing
This process takes place in several stages, the first of which is the base assembly. This is followed by the installation of countertops and the installation of all necessary equipment.
We prepare vertical supports and lintels, drill a through hole in a horizontally located bar. After we wind the nut with the washer on the bolt from the side of the groove. In the middle of the tabletop we install jumpers (there will be boxes between them), slats are attached to them. The workbench lid will be bolted on.
Workbench base - wooden frame(recommended to use for their manufacture soft wood: linden or pine), the fastenings of which must meet all the requirements of rigidity and stability. That is why, between the legs of your desktop in a horizontal form, you should place a jumper, and install a drawer along the entire length. They must be fixed at a safe distance from the floor (50 cm). Such a margin of space can come in handy in the future, and you can easily place small shelves or drawers at the bottom of the workbench.
Then we move on to the step countertop constructions. This can be done with several boards, but in this case they must be carefully processed, cleared of debris and sawdust. Its dimensions must exceed the width and length of the base. This solution is for your convenience. So the working area can be easily cleaned. The tabletop is fixed to the boards located on the opposite side of the workbench being created. Installation of bars is simply impossible without several grooves (slots, joints) located at the base.
We cover the work surface created by us with a vise. To do this, we construct a plywood gasket with wrong side, mark with a pencil or pen where the future holes will be. We drill them, attach a vise with nuts.
When we create stops, adjust them in height, place them at a sufficiently large distance from the vise. Such care will ensure reliability, and you will be sure that the workpieces will remain on the surface without falling to the floor.
We are also building, they can be fixed on the support of the bench space.
Let's start creating guide boxes, which will subsequently serve as a repository for all tools and large items. For them, we take away the back of the workbench, we make recesses.
We nail a couple of transverse bars to the base of the tabletop, for them it is premature to leave grooves. We attach the slats to the jumpers horizontally, they will serve for the process of sliding the boxes.
Attach the table top to the base with bolts.. We make recesses with a chisel, drill the indicated places, after which the bolts will appear there. It is necessary that their heads do not cause injuries, so they are securely hidden in the countertop.
Assembly
A certain number of vices will need to be attached to the structure. Under them, openings are prepared in advance, under which small plywood gaskets are subsequently fixed.
Be careful, place the vise on the same level to prevent destruction of the workbench.
We place the attachment points, after which we can start fixing the tools. Hardware is perfect for this.
Important: The vise should never be placed close to the corners of your table, otherwise there is a risk of the tool breaking.
Supporting elements are easy to do with your own hands. To do this, simply fix the finished stops, or drill small openings of a certain size.
Attention: it is not advisable to use bolts as stops, they can damage parts, and dowels are unreliable. Create rectangles, they will serve as an ideal and reliable fastener. Fasten the bar to the end of the workbench.
Consider the fact that rather heavy and massive things will subsequently be placed on the countertop, such as:
- wooden clamps;
- turning equipment;
- milling element;
- drill (stationary).
Therefore, it is so important to make sure that the fasteners are reliable and to think over all the options for convenience so that you do not have to regret the location of certain devices in the future.
Finishing
The finished product can be put in order with a grinder. After that, we cover the entire surface of the desktop with drying oil as a protective and primer layer for paint. So you save yourself from getting splinters, reduce the risk of injury.
Finally, screw the corners (with bolts) at the base.
It would be more correct to install such a structure in the zone of natural light, that is, by the window. Take care of additional lighting of the workplace, also do not forget that there should be sockets next to the workbench, in such a situation an extension cord can “save” you. The most comfortable pastime at the workbench will be if the table is not too high, and the light falls from the left or from above.
Photo
Making furniture is an individual process. You may well end up with something beautiful and convenient:
Useful video
The step-by-step manufacturing process is described in detail in the following video:
Conclusion
Having appeared on the farm, it will become an indispensable assistant, and over time, you will see for yourself. Firstly, a do-it-yourself workbench is a significant savings Money. Secondly, you, as a specialist, acquire practical skills. Thirdly, you will always have a convenient table “at hand” on which you can create interesting and useful household items.
In contact with
The garage is a multifunctional space. In it, you can install and repair cars, design and make various things and mechanisms with your own hands.
If a person likes to spend time in the garage, doing repair work, you need to properly equip your workplace. A workbench is a multifunctional desktop that can be used to process various materials, carry out metalwork, electromechanical and installation work. Also in the design of the workbench, you can think of shelves and drawers to store tools and other items.
Types of workbenches
Workbenches are made for processing metal (locksmith) and wood (carpentry). The designs differ in the material of the countertops. For locksmith models, the countertop must necessarily be metal, since working with metal involves the use of engine oil and other liquids that are on wooden surface may leave traces.
Also, when processing metal parts, effort is often required, the use of a sharp tool, so it is best to equip the workbench with a metal worktop.
Carpentry workbenches are designed to work with wood, so they are not as durable and functional as locksmith models.
Workbench design
If the design of the desktop in the garage is made by hand, then first of all you need to carefully consider every detail, figure out where the tools will be placed, what work will be carried out on the workbench. The model of the table in the garage depends on this.
Standard models are often equipped with drawers, which can be made of wood or metal. Also, the design of the table can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for hanging tools, which will always be at hand. But most importantly, the workbench must be stable, durable and reliable.
Tool
Screwdriver.
Jigsaw for cutting plywood.
Bulgarian with a circle for cutting metal and a grinding disc.
Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective devices for welding.
materials
Corner 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.
Square pipe 60 mm by 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.
Corner 40 mm by 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.
Steel strip 40 mm wide, 4 mm thick, 8 m long.
Steel sheet for countertop 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.
Steel sheet for making drawer holders. Thickness 2 mm.
Wooden boards for countertops. Thickness 50 mm.
Plywood for the manufacture of drawers and for the side and back walls of the table. Thickness 15mm
Guides for drawers.
Screws for assembling plywood boxes.
Self-tapping screws for metal.
Anchor bolts.
Paint for wood and metal.
The workbench that will be made from these materials has quite impressive dimensions: the table is 220 cm long and 75 cm wide. different ends vise table and, for example, emery or other tool.
The first step in the manufacture of a workbench is cutting the available material into elements. The profile pipe is intended for the manufacture of the frame. The steel corner is designed to create stiffeners. It is cut into pieces and a power frame is formed from it. Also, a steel corner is needed for edging the tabletop on which the boards will be laid.
The steel strip is intended for the manufacture of guides on which the side panels will be attached. Also, this material will go to the brackets for attaching boxes and plywood.
Table drawers are made of plywood.
The second step is welding the power frame of the workbench. The elements of the countertop are welded first - 2 pipes 2200 mm long and 2 pipes 750 mm each. The frame must be welded so that another frame of corners can be welded on top of it, into which the tabletop boards will be laid. To reinforce the countertop, it is required to weld a few more after 40 cm steel pipes, which will act as stiffeners.
Then 4 side legs are welded along the edges of the workbench. Their length is 900 mm. Power jumpers are welded between the legs, strengthening the structure.
After the base frame is ready, you can start welding the structure for the boxes. To do this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which are welded to the tabletop on both sides of the table. Frames are reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners.
The third step is to make a frame for the countertop. Two steel corners, 2200 mm long and two more corners 750 mm long, are needed to make the frame. The structure is welded so that wooden boards lie inside it.
The frame from the corner is laid on the frame of pipes and welded. It turns out a reinforced tabletop, 8 cm high with internal stiffeners.
The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, it remains to weld the crate of the panel for attaching the tool. This requires one metal corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the structure and two in the middle, for reinforcement. The toolbar is welded to the worktop.
The frame of the corners and pipes is ready. You can start strengthening the structure. Brackets are welded to the sidewalls of the table, which are cut from a steel strip. A total of 24 parts are needed. A hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. Through these holes, the side and rear walls plywood tables will be attached to metal frame workbench.
The fourth stage is the manufacture of drawers for the table. Plywood is cut into blanks, which are twisted with screws. The number of drawers depends on what will be stored in the table. If the details are small, then 3 boxes can be built, if large - then 2. It all depends on personal preference.
Drawers can be arranged on two sides of the table, can be mounted on one half retractable structures, and on the second - the usual open shelves.
After the drawers are assembled, metal strips with holes need to be welded between the sides of the drawer compartments. To these holes inside skids for guide boxes will be attached.
The fifth stage is laying the boards in the tabletop frame. Boards with a thickness of 50 mm are cut into blanks of a certain length. If a long board is available, then you need three blanks 245 mm wide and 2190 mm long. If there are no long boards available, then you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm wide is cut into 10 blanks 740 mm long.
Before laying the wood in the table frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This will protect the material from rotting and damage by beetles.
Then, without fail, it is required to paint the entire metal structure workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use a weatherproof and anti-corrosive coating option. Be especially careful when painting welding seams. Drops of metal and bumps are recommended before painting work clean thoroughly. This can be done using an angle grinder with a metal grinding disc.
After the structure is dry, you can start laying the boards on the countertop. They should not be driven too tightly into the frame. This is due to the fact that the tree tends to expand and shrink with a change in temperature and humidity. It is better to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the boards. The surface of the wood needs to be sanded, this will simplify installation. sheet metal on top of the tree. Boards around the entire perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.
The sixth stage is the fastening of the upper steel sheet. It can be welded to the countertop, but there is wood inside the structure, which can ignite during the welding process. Therefore, it is best to attach the steel sheet with hidden self-tapping screws to the wooden planks. Previously, the metal must be painted on both sides with a rust converter. This covering material looks like a transparent paint coating, is easily restored and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint the metal countertop with the same paint that covered the frame. It will be beautiful, but over time, the paint may scratch and the table will not look too new.
The last step is to install the boxes on the rails and fasten the plywood to the side walls , shelves and power shield in front of the table. This work can be called finishing workbench. After work with plywood is over, it must be coated with a compound that will protect the material from exposure environment. Also, do not forget about the design of the power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, to which the necessary things will be hung.
In order to make it convenient to work at the workbench, you can attach a special lamp with a bending stand to the power shield. In this case, you can optionally direct the flow of light to the right place.
Video - The process of making a workbench
Installing a vice on a locksmith's workbench
A vice is an indispensable attribute of a locksmith's workbench. It is not recommended to attach a clamping tool weighing several tens of kilograms to the tabletop itself. It is best to place a metal gasket between the metal of the table and the tool, 1 cm thick. It is required to drill holes for the anchor bolts in the gasket. Then, in the same places, drill holes in the countertop of the same size. The whole structure is fastened with anchor bolts.
Safety requirements for a homemade workbench design
- If the area of \u200b\u200bthe garage is not too large, then you can make a smaller table for plumbing work with your own hands. But, it is worth knowing that the whole structure must be stable, not sway or budge with little effort.
- The workplace should be organized in such a way that nothing interferes with a person. When working with a vise, all unnecessary tools should be removed from the countertop.
- The corners and protruding parts of the table should not be too sharp and have cutting edges.
- After repair work behind the workbench, you need to clean the workplace from metal chips, oil drops and other materials.
- If a homemade workbench is made correctly, then it can easily withstand a load of 200 kg.
Shield plywood
Video - Do-it-yourself workbench in the garage
It's no secret that a well-equipped workplace is the key to successful plumbing, electromechanical or installation work. The main item in the garage or workshop, around which the entire work area is arranged, is a workbench. This desktop must have the necessary functionality, be durable and reliable. Buying a finished product in a distribution network can result in a tidy sum, so it's better to make it yourself. This will make it possible not only to save money, but also to get a garage table in strict accordance with the requests for functionality and placement.
Workbench with your own hands. How to do?
Below we will tell you how to make a wooden or metal workbench with your own hands. The presented designs do not require the use of any scarce parts or the use of expensive equipment, and during the installation process, you can get by with minimal carpentry and locksmith skills.
Making a workbench with your own hands (from wood)
Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands has a lot of advantages, which are that you can pre-arrange the locations of the vise and other devices, think over the number and location drawers etc.
Necessary tools and materials
For self-manufacturing workbench you need to prepare the following tools:
- electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
- electric drill and a set of drills for wood and metal;
- joiner's square;
- roulette;
- bubble level;
- set of wrenches.
- When stocking up on materials, be sure to pay attention that the wooden parts do not have cracks and knots. To get started, you will need:
- bars for support legs 100x100 mm;
- two plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm (OSB can be used). In this case, one sheet will go to the table top, and the other to the bottom shelf.
- boards 50x150 mm, from which the frame will be mounted;
- bolts (it is best to use furniture ones, with a square part that prevents them from rotating in wooden parts);
- washers and nuts;
- self-tapping screws.
To facilitate assembly and avoid mistakes when cutting material, it is better to make drawings of a workbench and indicate the dimensions of each part on it.
DIY workbench drawings
Workbench with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction
First of all, you need to make upper frame underframe. To do this, in accordance with the drawing, boards of the desired length are sawn off.
Using self-tapping screws, long and short parts are fastened in such a way as to obtain a rectangular frame. After that, measure the distance to its middle along the long side, where the spacer bar is installed. In its capacity, the same board 50x150 mm is used, which is attached to the frame from both ends with self-tapping screws.
Workbench made of wood with your own hands. Photo
Support legs a workbench is made from 6 identical bars. For their fastening to the upper frame, long bolts with nuts and washers are used. To mount the support, the bar is placed in the corner of the frame and two through holes are drilled through the leg and side board. Then the connections are tightened using bolts with nuts.
To achieve the necessary rigidity of the structure, the lower boards are mounted. By the way, these same details will serve as the basis bottom shelf. To do this, in full accordance with the drawings of the workbench, saw off 4 wooden parts with a section of 50x150 mm.
To fix the bottom boards, measure 30 cm from the edge of each support. At this height, one piece is attached to the three rear legs of the structure, and from the front board is attached between the middle and side supports on the side where it will be installed additional shelf.
Two short boards are mounted at the same height on the sides of the workbench.
Using an electric jigsaw or hacksaw, parts are cut from OSB sheets or plywood for countertops. It is fixed flush to the top of the desktop with self-tapping screws. To protect the surface of the workbench from damage, a layer of hardboard is laid on top of the plywood, which, as it wears out, can be easily replaced with new material. To install the bottom shelf, measure the distance from the middle to the extreme legs. The material is cut to this size and with a jigsaw or a hacksaw in its corners cutouts are made for the support legs. The fastening of the shield to the lower base is carried out similarly to the installation of the tabletop.
To obtain the stability of the frame structure, when attaching the supports and assembling the frame of the bench workbench, be sure to use joiner's square. After installing the workbench, check the horizontal position of its location with a bubble level. If necessary, the level can be changed by placing small segments thin plywood under the legs.
Workbench with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction
After the assembly is completed, the workbench is impregnated with a special protective compound, varnished or painted.
Small workbench for home DIY
The design of the locksmith workbench proposed below will greatly facilitate locksmith and installation work not only in a small garage, but also on a balcony, in a corner of a utility room, etc. With all the functionality and convenience of a full-size desktop, it won't take up a lot of space and can fit a variety of tools and accessories in its drawers.
tabletop small workbench It is made of two sheets of plywood glued together with a thickness of at least 18 mm and has dimensions of 1500x600 mm. To strengthen the table top, it has an additional thickening at the edges with two layers of plywood sheet, which gives a thickness of 72 mm.
Considering that 18 mm thick plywood is not the cheapest material (the cost of one sheet is about 1000 rubles), you can save a little if you buy a full-size sheet with dimensions of 2440x1220 mm. Unfortunately, this material is not enough to make a reinforcing strip, which is located around the perimeter of the lid, so you will have to additionally look for a small piece of plywood sheet. Otherwise, the design of the countertop will have to be changed.
Starting to build a small carpentry workbench with your own hands, prepare the following tools and materials:
- a rule with a length of at least 2 m;
- Circular Saw;
- joiner's square;
- notched trowel with a tooth size of 2x2 or 3x3 mm. Can buy finished tool or make it yourself using a grinder;
- screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers;
- spanners;
- good wood glue, for example, "Moment Joiner"
- plywood 18mm thick;
- wooden beam 40x60 mm;
- self-tapping screws;
- bolts, nuts, washers.
In addition, for the independent manufacture of a workbench, you need to acquire good carpentry clamps, without which it will be problematic to glue plywood sheets. If it is not possible to purchase a quality tool, you can use inexpensive Chinese clamps, which will need twice the amount.
The process of making a workbench with your own hands begins with lids, on which a strip 1520 mm long is cut from a sheet of plywood 2440 mm long. Sawing this part, they get elements measuring 1520x610 mm to reinforce the sides of the lid. Then, as a rule, the plane of the plywood sheets is checked in order to orient them with a convex surface inward when gluing.
The next step will require maximum concentration and accuracy - within a couple of minutes you need to evenly distribute wood glue on the surface of one sheet of plywood. If you feel that a lack of experience will not give you the opportunity to cope with this work in such a short time, then use to connect wooden parts PVA furniture glue It has no time limits and can be applied with a simple paint brush. Having prepared the clamps and boards in advance to distribute the load over the entire plane, lay the bottom sheet on three boards, and after applying the adhesive, cover it with the top plywood shield.
Having installed the pressure boards on top, tighten the structure with clamps, constantly controlling the flatness with the help of the rule. The place in the center of the tabletop cannot be pressed with a clamp, so it is left unloaded.
When gluing a shield from several sheets of plywood, you can do without clamps if you put the structure on a flat surface and press it evenly over the entire plane with some kind of load. After the glue dries, the clamps or the load are removed and proceed to the next step in the manufacture of the workbench with their own hands.
So that the tabletop has a strict geometric shape, when cutting it parquet you have to be very careful. A rule can be used as a guide rail for a saw. When cutting the tabletop to dimensions of 1500x600 mm, maintain 90 ° angles using a carpenter's square or using the factory corners left when cutting plywood as a template. Dissolve the remaining scraps of the plywood shield into strips 150 mm wide. You will need them to reinforce the tabletop around the perimeter, so glue them around the entire edge of the tabletop in two layers. In this case, the upper strips should overlap the joints of the lower pieces of plywood.
For the manufacture of underframe use a bar with a section of 40x60 mm. At the same time, the tsargs and prolegs are made of solid lumber, and the supports are glued from two segments and one whole beam. The height of the workbench is chosen taking into account your height, since when using it there should be no inconvenience and discomfort. In our case, the height of the workbench from the floor to the top surface of the tabletop is 900 mm.
Next, glue the legs and assemble two frames. In this case, it is important to observe the perpendicularity of the connections, since when deviating from right angle the geometry of the structure will be broken. It will be easier to achieve this condition if, even at the trimming stage, the angles of all parts are strictly at 90 °. In our workbench, the frame width is 900 mm and the height of the support legs is 830 mm. The gap from the floor to the bottom prong should be 150 mm.
After the glue has dried, the frames are mounted on the countertop and fastened with clamps. Then the legs are set strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to the bottom surface of the plywood shield and another set of prolegs and tsargs are cut out. For fixing the structure to the tabletop, self-tapping screws 8x120 mm are used.
You can increase the stability of the workbench if the prolegs and drawers are additionally fastened with the same self-tapping screws. By choosing a recess for the head of the hardware with a pen drill, they ensure the aesthetics of the joints.
The workbench is almost ready. If desired, a box for storing tools can be made in its underframe.
Do-it-yourself metal workbench for the garage
The workbench made of steel has the necessary strength and reliability, which are required when working with metal products. Such a desktop can add functionality to any garage or workshop.
Materials and tools
To start making a workbench in the garage with your own hands, you should acquire the following locksmith tools:
- angle grinder with cutting and grinding discs;
- welding machine;
- building level;
- electric jigsaw;
- drill with a set of drills;
- screwdriver;
- measuring tool.
Do-it-yourself metal workbench drawings
Some of the materials that are needed for the workbench can be found in the garage, and the missing parts can be bought in the construction market. You will need:
- steel corners 50x50x4 and 40x40x2;
- profile pipe 60x40x2;
- steel strip 40x4 mm;
- steel sheets 2200x750x2 mm;
- boards 50 mm thick;
- 15mm plywood and drawer rails;
- metal screws and bolts.
Also, prepare the paint and rust converter to make the product look aesthetically pleasing and the metal to be protected from moisture.
Step-by-step instructions for making a metal workbench
cutting material. Cut into the frame profile pipe. The steel corner is used to strengthen the structure and edging the table top. The metal strip is needed as guides for the side panels and for the manufacture of drawer brackets.
Frame welding. From pipes 2200 and 750 mm long, connected in pairs, a rectangular tabletop frame is mounted. At the same time, it is taken into account that on top of the frame it will be necessary to weld the corners into which the boards of the working surface are laid. To reinforce the frame, pieces of steel pipes are welded every 400 mm as stiffeners.
How to make a workbench with your own hands from metal. Photo
Support legs 900 mm long are mounted along the edges of the table by welding, which are reinforced at the bottom with jumpers from a corner or a profile pipe.
On both sides, the frames of the drawers of the workbench are welded to the legs.
Corners for edging are installed on the frame of the tabletop, after which they are fixed with a welding joint.
From a corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 m, a crate of a power vertical panel for a tool is equipped.
The finished frame is strengthened steel bar brackets, which are welded to its sidewalls. For strengthening, 24 elements are required. Additionally, it is required to drill holes in each strip for mounting the side and rear plywood walls.
Plywood is cut into pieces for the manufacture of boxes, after which they are assembled using self-tapping screws. The number of boxes and their location depends on the specific needs and personal preferences of the owner.
After assembling the drawers, metal strips with holes for attaching the slide are welded to the sidewalls of the frame.
All welds and sharp corners they pass with a grinder with a peeling wheel installed, and the rusty sections of rolled metal are cleaned with a metal brush-nozzle.
The metal frame is treated with an anti-corrosion compound and painted with weather-resistant paint.
The boards are cut along the length of the countertop and placed in a frame from a corner. To prevent rotting and damage to wood by insects, the boards are treated antiseptic composition.
The lumber is placed in a prepared bed, leaving gaps of 2-3 mm between the wood and the metal to allow the wood to expand when it swells. After that, the boards are screwed with self-tapping screws.
The upper steel sheet is treated on both sides with a rust converter, and after drying, it is attached to wooden table top self-tapping screws.
They paint the drawers of the table and install them on the rails, and also attach the side and back plywood sheathing.
After the workbench is made, a vice and other necessary equipment are installed, hooks are attached to place the tool.
What is a workbench
The workbench is a table designed for work related to the manufacture and installation of products made of wood, metal and other materials. Often, workbenches are additionally equipped with equipment for fastening workpieces, drawers and shelves for storing tools and accessories. Depending on the intended purpose, carpentry and locksmith workbenches for working with wood and metal are distinguished, respectively. Work tables for workshops and garages can be single or multiple. Workbenches designed for one workplace have a width of up to 0.8 m and a length of up to 1.5 m. The dimensions of multi-seat locksmith tables increase according to the number of people working behind them. The distance of the working surface from the floor is usually 0.8 - 0.9 m, however, there are also designs with adjustable height. Workbenches are most often made of metal or wood, and their countertops are covered with sheets of plywood, hardboard, galvanized sheet, boards and other materials.
