Tin work products from tin. How to make a galvanized pipe. Advantages and disadvantages of such a pipe

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Cap - a cap made of galvanized sheet for a brick pillar.

Choose any height "h", or taking into account the dimensions of the finished column. It is sometimes useful to increase the landing dimensions "a" and "b" by 5 - 10 mm, depending on the quality of the masonry. The size "d" can be "estimated" with a tape measure directly on the pole, or count according to the formula below.

* Put pattern front side up. Drill a hole Ø3.5 mm. Bend the stiffeners (15mm) down by almost 90°. Bend all dotted lines at an angle of 90°. The deflection of the lines should be done in a sheet bender, at least in a home-made one from two corners (it will not be done for long). Then the bending lines will be straight, clear, without dents, and the product will eventually have an aesthetic appearance. If there is no bender, then bend the line "a" and "b" as usual; bend lines "A" and "B" on a piece of corner No. 50 - 63 fixed on the edge of the workbench with the shelf up. To bend plane A or B all at once, or almost all of it, use a bar (picket) 25x45 mm 30-40 cm long.

Bend the edges along the lines "d" to the correct rectangular shape of the cap, umbrella. To do this, have a narrow mandrel: a corner 50 with a cut shelf, or a metal strip 1.5-2 mm thick attached to it, a saw blade is even better.

Check the fit of the upper (closing) stiffener to the back (rear) plane of the cap. Once again check that the product is not skewed; mark with a thin marker a reciprocal hole of 3.5 mm; punch, drill, and fix the assembly with a 3.2 mm rivet.

Bend the planes along the lines "A" and "B" inside the umbrella (into its place), holding it with your hands between a strip of metal (2 mm thick, 40-45 mm wide, ~ 30 cm long); and a bar (fence) 25x45 mm of suitable length. If necessary, seal this bend with a mallet. If necessary, slightly upset the top of the closing stiffener at the top of the cap.

The lower belt of the cap can be omitted from the pattern, but made separately. From a strip of appropriate length and width, bend a rectangle of landing dimensions "a" and "b"; bend the sides in its upper part for rigidity and fastening, and put it inside the cap before the final bending of the planes along the lines "A" and "B". If necessary, secure with a 3.2 mm rivet.

In the manufacture of caps large sizes divide the pattern into two halves, but not along the angular lines "d", but along the midpoints of opposite planes-faces. Connect the halves with two slatted "seams", placing the slats inside the umbrella, with the right side to the connection. A seam seam, especially on dyed material, can (and will) look messy. Do the lower belt for large caps separately.

Outside view of the cap small height- see the drawing of a square umbrella on the "Gas hood" page.

Simplified pole cap with brick belt:

For support legs and metal poles from profile pipes are used in the form of small caps. Plugs are made of thicker metal, usually in the shape of a low pyramid.

See the "Steel Roofing" page for making single and double connecting seams.

The node of the passage of the duct of the exhaust pipe in the roof of the roof.

The box is installed (put on) on a rectangular glass, all sides of which are 3-4 mm smaller than the sides of the box. The glass at the angle of the roof slope is riveted with a sheet of the same color as the color of the roof. It is convenient to draw a pattern of a box and an adjusting cutting glass on one tin sheet. With a small height of the structure, the ventilation (or protective, heat-insulating) duct can be connected directly to the roofing sheet, i.e. without an intermediate glass.

Mark a rectangular hole on the back (not front) side roofing sheet cutting. The dimensions of the sheet should be taken such that with a sufficient margin (at least 20 cm each) to cover the sections of the roof adjacent to the pipes, and cover the part of the sheet from the side of the ridge with the roof sheet from above.

Check the tightness of the glass on the sheet. Mark the reciprocal holes Ф3.5 mm for attaching the tailgate. Remove the glass, drill holes. Before the final installation of the glass on the sheet, apply sealant or any water-frost-resistant glue under the fastening sides. Fix with rivets 3.2 mm tailgate; then side and front.

A glass and a box (already with an umbrella) alternately install (put on) on exhaust pipes for their heat-moisture insulation and improvement of appearance. On the side of the roof ridge in the lower part of the structure, additionally install a bumper corner in front of it to drain flowing water, especially if the flow pressure increases on a steep or long roof slope.

square umbrella and his pattern, pattern round umbrella for a pipe with a diameter of 160 mm - on the page "Gas hood".

Umbrella, "chimney", weather vane.

Choose any height of the umbrella. If small sections are cut off in the end parts in their upper corner (along the "K" line), then the "chimney" will have two additional windows for the hood. From above, close these windows with a protruding ridge, the ends of which can be cut off figuratively. According to the level of the same line ("K"), you can make one rectangular window in the upper part of the entire umbrella, which will have to be protected from above with a second umbrella, but smaller. Wind vane - an umbrella with a weather vane, often a combination of two umbrellas of various sizes and shapes is called a wind vane; one of her simple options on this. The pattern of the main (large) part can be divided into two identical parts - along the line of its ridge.

Drill four holes Ø 3.5 mm in two end pieces.

Bend all stiffeners along lines "d" by almost 90°.

Bend the stiffeners 15 mm along lines "A" and "B" by 90 °.

Bend the umbrella along the line of the ridge to the angle of the planes.

Bend all lines *60, taking into account the slope of the umbrella planes.

It is desirable to do bending in a bending machine - even a home-made one from two corners will significantly improve the quality of bending lines and appearance products.

Temporarily fix the main part on a flat surface, maintaining the "B" dimension.

Tightly attach the end piece to the main one. Mark reciprocal holes f 3.5 mm; drill. Fix the assembly with 3.2 mm rivets.

Racks are made from strips of the same material, folding the strip (w. 105-110 mm, length about 40 cm) twice - i.e. in three layers of 35 mm, WITHOUT DISCHARGE along the fold lines to maintain rigidity.

Marking holes for attaching racks to an umbrella:

In size calculationy"3 cm to accept an umbrella for boxes or belts made of tin, 6 cm - for an umbrella for a brick pipe.

Tee for extraction.

Mark and cut a hole in the pattern of the main nozzle "D". The lower drawing shows (as an example) the exact marking of the entry hole d 140 mm to D 150 mm. On the page "Gas hood" there is a drawing of marking the inlet for a tee that combines a diameter of 120 mm with a pipe of 140 mm; and a branch with a diameter of 120 mm, as the most commonly used when arranging an individual gas heating in a private house or apartment.

Marking the inlet with a diameter of 140 mm into a pipe with a diameter of 150 mm:

Prepare the seams, "roll" the socket "D" into the shape of a pipe, but do not connect the seam seam.

Temporarily install the inlet pipe "d" into the rolled up (but not sealed at the seam) pipe "D". Align the mutual position of the nozzles. Branch pipe "d" (inlet) is cut off and cut along the line of the inlet. Bend the bead 8 - 10 mm wide along the cut line on the branch pipe "d" as shown in the figure.
Install the inlet pipe into the tee from the inside of the "opened" through pipe "D", fasten the folds, check the tightness of the adjoining parts. Seal the seam seam, drill reciprocal holes Ø 3.5 mm - fix the assembly with rivets Ø 3.2 mm. If necessary, add any sealing material to the connection line from the inside of the tee: putty, paint, sealant.

When extracting from gas equipment, from a heating boiler or from a water heater, special attention should be paid to the tightness of the connections.

Corners, ventilation outlets and gas ducts.

A simplified method for marking the mate line of the branch links is presented, which, although approximate, but quite applicable in practice, gives a pattern. Reducing the number of retract links (angle) increases distortion and the need for adjustment (cutting) during assembly. Exact patterns of taps are built using descriptive geometry techniques.

Pattern and marking of the mating line of the links of the three-link branch by 90 degrees.

See the exact (in numbers) marking of the curved line for an outlet with a diameter of 120 mm on the "Gas hood" page. The pattern and marking of the line of pairing of links for a five-link bend of 90 degrees is on the page "Tee, bends, transitions". The patterns of the left side of the patterns are mirrored to the right side.

Connect the marking points into a smooth line, mirror the resulting pattern on the right.

Pattern and approximate marking of the interface line of two right angle links:

The pattern is given on the drawing right angle ninety degrees for a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.

Feeder for rabbits.

Pattern for making a bunker-type feeder from galvanized sheet. The drawing shows the dimensions of the details of the feeder with a capacity of 3.5 liters of dry bulk feed.

Rivet assembly can be replaced contact welding or spot soldering.

Drill all holes in the details of the first (trial) copy. Make cuts along the edges of the fold lines of the back and inner walls. Bend the fastening boards 15 mm by 90 degrees. Bend the 25 mm line of the rear wall inward by about 135 degrees, shape the feeder tray. Bend the inner and back walls to their working positions, using the side walls as a jig. Make sure the holes match. If necessary, correct their location on the details of the following instances. Connect the inner wall with 3.2mm rivets to both side walls. Invest in back wall, install rivets.

Feeder can be supplemented top cover and elements of attachment to the cage.

Drainage funnel, gutter.

Dimensions, figured cut of the top and artistic elements of the water intake funnel - at the discretion of the performer. It is useful to increase the width of the strip for cutting each section of the gutter following the flow of water by 1 - 2 mm.

Due to the large amount of material, some drawings and drawings have been moved to other pages, in accordance with their subject matter.

Patterns of a confuser, a diffuser, a transition from a round section to a round section of a different diameter (bucket), from a rectangular section to a round section, to a rectangular section - are on the page "Drawings, schemes, drawings of the site".

Good day, dear guest!

First sheet with electroplated came off the assembly line of one of the British factories back in 1867. True, at that time the metal was covered exclusively with gold and silver. But before the First World War, the production of parts with a protective layer of zinc was put on stream, and since then they have been incredibly popular.

This is not surprising - zinc prolongs the life of iron by 20-30 times. Products made of galvanized steel are durable, do not give in to rust, and behave in everyday life no worse than stainless steel, although they are much cheaper.

In today's article, I propose to pay more attention to this modest material and tell you how to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of such a pipe

Galvanization is primarily steel, a material that has many undeniable advantages.

These include:

Strength,
Ability to withstand high temperatures
Excellent thermal conductivity,
Low cost compared to other materials.

But without protective coating ferrous metal is subject to corrosion, quickly rusts and becomes unusable. Galvanizing successfully solved this problem. And, despite the fact that galvanized and steel pipes are the same in shape, a galvanized product has a number of advantages.

Additional advantages of a galvanized product:

Corrosion resistance, the ability to withstand negative environmental influences,
Extended service life
increased strength,
Wide operating temperature range,
High resistance to mechanical stress,
Galvanized pipe withstands high internal and external pressure,
Ease and convenience of installation,
High fire resistance
Zinc kills all pathogenic microorganisms,
Galvanization is practically not inferior in quality to low-alloyed stainless steel, but it costs an order of magnitude cheaper.

But, like any engineering solution, a galvanized iron pipeline is not ideal.

Not very attractive design
Expensive compared to conventional steel,
Zinc complicates the welding process,
Unlike plastic, if there are protrusions on the walls, ensure smooth transition in the construction of galvanized pipes, it is almost impossible.

Do it yourself or order

What is better, buy a galvanized sheet of the desired thickness and bend the pipe yourself, or go to the store and buy a finished product?

As usual, let's start with the price. A finished pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 3 meters will cost you and me about 500 rubles. The cost of the material in this case is 150 rubles, the rest is labor costs and the seller's margin.

And if you plan to organize an entire drainage system? You can see for yourself that you will have to overpay for finished products by 2.5-3 times. Making pipes yourself will greatly ease the financial burden.

In addition, factory products have strictly defined dimensions, and sometimes it is difficult to choose the right one for your system. And the thickness of the finished pipe usually does not exceed 1mm.

Be sure to remember - any factory product, unlike a home-made one, undergoes strict quality control, has a perfectly round surface and the accuracy of the weld.

Can House master Ensuring compliance with all these conditions is far from a fact.

What material to choose

If it was decided to make the part on our own, you should start with the choice of material, in our case, a galvanized sheet of the required thickness.

Material characteristics

Sheet steel coated with zinc at the factory must comply with GOST 14918-80. The main characteristics that you should pay attention to when choosing:

The most common galvanized thicknesses are from 0.35 to 3mm. The thinner the sheet, the easier it is to process, which is important for the manufacture of products at home. But do not forget - less thickness - less strength.

Thickness of zinc coating

There are 3 classes of material, according to the thickness of the zinc coating layer. We summarize the data in a table for convenience.

How to make the perfect galvanized pipe with your own hands: step by step instructions
Advantages and disadvantages of galvanized pipes, material characteristics. Step-by-step instruction, which will help you make a galvanized pipe with your own hands, size calculation, drawing and diagram.

With the use of new technologies in construction, the need to use tin pipes is gradually disappearing, but the question of how to make a pipe from tin is of interest to people who like to do everything in the house with their own hands.

What tin to choose?

How to make a pipe out of tin? What tin is best for this job?

Thin sheet metal is an excellent material for homemade baths and smokehouse. Tin is thin sheet steel that is subject to corrosion. For the manufacture of beautiful downpipes, as well as weathercocks, visors over chimney pipes, covers over chimneys do-it-yourself or original filigree lace, galvanized iron roofing is used.

Tip: pipes made of tin can also be used as samovar pipes, they increase traction well and also remove smoke.

What tools are needed?

Before you start making a tin pipe with your own hands, you need to take care of the tools and materials that you will need.

Making tin pipes with your own hands involves the use of the following:

a sheet of roofing thin galvanized iron (thickness 0.5-0.7 mm),
metal cutting scissors,
metal bar,
wooden mallet (mallet),
simple hammer,
pliers.

Metal cutting scissors

Tip: in order for the tin pipe to turn out beautiful and even, it is necessary to take a sheet of iron with a smooth and even surface, and also so that the corners are straight, and not torn off or unevenly cut.

Instructions for making a tin pipe

How to make a pipe out of tin? Where to begin?

The manufacture of tin pipes begins with drawing up a drawing. Draw on an iron sheet a pattern of the future pipe in expanded form.

Tip: the pipe pattern can be drawn with chalk or any sharp object.

When marking a pattern, the following points must be considered:

the width of the workpiece should be equal to the diameter of the pipe plus an additional one and a half centimeters,
the length of the workpiece is slightly longer than the straight section of the pipe.

Scheme of the workpiece for the pipe seam

Cut off the drawn pipe blank with metal scissors.
Put the workpiece on the edge of the workbench.
Draw a fold line along the length of the iron sheet on one side, it should be half a centimeter.
Combine the line that is drawn with the edge of the corner on the layout.
Using a mallet, bend down the edge of the sheet of iron.
Turn the sheet over and with light blows of the mallet bend the edge to the sheet.
Turn the workpiece over and, on the other hand, bend the edge 1 centimeter wide, but in the other direction.
Bend the edge again, so that in profile this bend will look like the letter G.
Insert the workpiece into the mandrel, carefully bend the edges of the pipe to each other.

Tip: you can use a mandrel - this is a sector or pipe template of the required diameter, but you can do without it.

Join the edges into a lock so that the smaller edge catches on the larger edge.
Seal the edge with pliers.
Using a hammer and an iron bar, lay the edge on the sheet and knock it out well.

Bend of a fold on a pipe

The edges of the tin pipe can also be fastened with steel, aluminum or tin rivets.

Drill holes for the rivets at a distance of three centimeters.
Bend the edge at a right angle towards each other.
Bend the sheet of tin blank in the opposite direction so that the edges and are located on the outside of the pipe.
fasten the edges with rivets.

Tip: a do-it-yourself tin pipe fastened in this way is not very convenient to use. The result is a not very attractive external seam, which has to be hidden when installing the pipe.

Features of working with tin

To give the sheet tin material the desired shape of the pipe, you need to bend it with tongs or a hammer around an object of the appropriate cylindrical shape.
Do-it-yourself tin pipes can be made using a metal or wooden cylinder.

Tip: the fold of the tin should be even along the entire length, this can be achieved by lightly tapping the hammer, while the blows should be as close to each other as possible.

The manufacture of tin pipes is impossible without the use of metal shears. It will be much easier to work with such a tool if you attach a leather loop to its handle.
The metal is cut with one hand, putting a leather loop on the fingers.
The edge of a sheet of iron after cutting with scissors can be cleaned with a plow made from a small old piece of a hacksaw blade.
A downpipe made of tin, which is already ready for installation, in some cases needs to be cut (for example, when it is necessary to make a figured edge of the drain pipe).
To do this, it will be convenient to cut the pipe with a knife, which is intended for opening canned food.

Gutter tin pipe

Tip: in order for the pipe to be cut well with a knife, first you need to file it with a hacksaw, and only then use a knife.

cutting process tin pipe

When working with tin, sometimes you have to use a file. Very often it is clogged with metal filings and quickly fails.
In order to clean it, you can use a copper spatula or a soft metal tube, while flattening its end.

It is not very difficult to make tin pipes with your own hands, the main thing is to follow these recommendations and be extremely careful, as you can get hurt by the cut off sharp edges of the tin sheet.

How to make a pipe from tin: instructions
229) How to make a pipe out of tin: making tin products with your own hands.

You can buy galvanized pipes freely, but the cost of such products can be quite high, so the desire to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands is dictated, first of all, by considerations of economy.

At the same time, the manufacture of galvanized pipes does not require special efforts, special expensive fixtures and tools, and some kind of professional knowledge, so any home craftsman who has a set of standard carpentry tools in his arsenal can handle this.

Characteristics of galvanized pipes

Galvanized metal pipes are used for chimney equipment, they are popular because of their light weight and, accordingly, ease of installation. Galvanized chimneys do not require the construction of a foundation, and this significantly reduces the cost of chimney equipment.

These pipes meet the standards fire safety, withstanding temperature regime up to 900°, so they can even be used for smoke extraction from solid fuel heating boilers and stoves.

Also, galvanized pipes in home construction are used for drain equipment. Such pipes are already quite affordable in terms of costs, but at the same time, the process can be made even cheaper using hand-made products.

What you need to make a galvanized pipe

At home, to make a galvanized pipe, you need a sheet of tin, the material does not require much effort due to its softness and plasticity.

Tinplate is industrially made from thin sheet steel with a thickness of 0.1 to 0.7 mm on rolling machines, after which they are coated with an anti-corrosion protective layer of chromium, tin or zinc. Finally, the workpieces are cut standard sizes, width from 512 mm to 2000 mm.

The strength of such products is in no way inferior to steel counterparts, especially if the material has additional stiffeners, but at the same time it is very plastic and allows you to mount complex-shaped pipelines manually. Anti-corrosion coating provides protection of the pipe from environmental influences.

The problem of such pipes is insufficient bending strength, therefore, for the manufacture of open parts, stiffeners are introduced into the design to strengthen the product.

the stores offer a wide range of such pipes of various sizes: single-circuit,
double-circuit (made in the form of a sandwich and consisting of an inner and outer pipe),
corrugated, characterized by increased flexibility.

Note! At home, it is technically possible to make only a single-circuit pipe.

When choosing the thickness of the sheet, the purpose of the pipe should be taken into account. For example, a galvanized pipe for smoke extraction from solid fuel stoves and fireplaces must have increased resistance to high temperatures, and at the same time high anti-corrosion properties.

It is important! The higher the temperature of the working medium, the thicker the pipe walls must be.

Tools

For work, special tools are needed to bend, measure the bend angle correctly and cut the pipe of the desired length.

A set of tools that will be needed for work:

Note! The blades of the scissors should not be blunt, the formation of a smooth edge of the product depends on this. When cut with a blunt instrument, notches are formed, which must be removed. To avoid unnecessary work, it is important to monitor the quality of sharpening.

hammer with rubber pad, mallet ( carpentry tool from wood in the form of a hammer),
bending pliers,
workbench for cutting and marking,
a pipe for calibration with a size of more than 100 mm and an angle with edges of 75 mm,
ruler or tape measure
scriber (sharpened steel rod).

Instructions for the manufacture of galvanized pipes

First of all, you need to mark out a sheet of iron, drawing lines of folds of folds on one side with a size of 5 mm, on the other two times 5 mm, the fold on one side should be wider than the second in order to form a strong seam in the future. Bend the sheet at an angle of 90 ° on both sides, using a corner and pliers.

It is important! The shape should be bent gradually, moving from one edge to the other along the fold line.

Then, turning the workpiece, folds are formed, the angle is adjusted to 135-140 °, tapping the edges of the tin with a mallet or a hammer with a soft striker, carefully so as not to damage the material of the product. After the formation of the folds, you can proceed to the formation of the pipe itself.

Fix the workpiece on the calibration template to give it the desired shape, and tap again until the folds are connected.

The wide edge is again bent parallel to the plane of the product at an angle of 90°.

The last stage is the connection of the ends to each other with a flat seam using a mallet.

Align the folds, bend the horizontal part of the second fold, wrapping it around the first fold, and then bend this seam, pressing it firmly against the pipe plane.

You can additionally strengthen the junction with metal rivets using welding machine, although most often galvanized pipes connected with a flat seam do not need additional reinforcement.

How to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands?
Galvanized pipes are already quite affordable in terms of costs, but at the same time, the process can be made even cheaper using hand-made products. Tools and instructions for creating a pipe with your own hands.

Home builders try to select the best solutions to solve problems. budget options. Therefore, the question of how to make a tin pipe with your own hands is relevant for many amateur craftsmen. After all, a home-made tubular product made of tin can be quite compared with drains or casings that lie on shelves in specialized stores.

Therefore, it is necessary to learn more about the manufacturing process of a tin pipe that has the characteristics of factory products.

Features of the source material

Before proceeding with the manufacture of a pipe from a sheet of metal, you should get to know the material from which the pipe will be made and its features. To begin with, it is worth saying that these are rolling products, in other words, tin is a sheet of steel that has passed through the rollers of a rolling mill and has a thickness of 0.1-0.7 mm.

In addition to rolling operations, tinplate manufacturing technology involves the processing of finished rolled products from the formation of corrosive processes. To do this, a layer of material is applied to the steel after rolling, which is not susceptible to corrosion.

The result of the actions performed is a steel sheet, the width of which can vary from 512 to 1000 mm, with a chrome or zinc coating. The finished product is plastic, so tin can be easily processed by hand. At the same time, rolled stiffeners can be compared in strength with steel products. This allows the use of tin in the manufacture of products of complex design.

Required Tools

The list of tools and fixtures necessary for making galvanized chimney pipes with your own hands is due to the properties of tin, in particular softness and plasticity. The processing of this type of material does not require any special effort, which is necessary for working with sheet materials.

Therefore, in the production of tin pipes for the chimney, the following set of tools is needed:

Scissors for cutting metal. This tool makes it easy to cut sheet material into the desired pieces, since the largest thickness of the tin reaches 0.7 mm.
Soft-faced hammer. You can also use wooden mallet, mallet, or steel tool with soft rubber lining. However, the latter option is used very carefully or not taken at all, as it can cause deformation. thin sheet tin and ruin all the work.
Pliers. With the help of this tool, they solve the question of how to bend a pipe from tin, because it is steel, although it is thin, therefore, it is impossible to bend it with your hands.
Crafting table. This device is necessary when cutting material and when marking.
Calibrating element. This can be a tubular product with a diameter of more than 10 centimeters, as well as a corner with edges of 7.5 centimeters. These elements must be well fixed, since a butt joint will be riveted on their surface.

In addition to these tools, you should prepare a ruler or tape measure and a scriber, which is a steel rod with sharp sharpening.

Instructions for making a tin pipe with your own hands

The manufacture of tin products, including pipes, takes place in three stages:

Preparatory work involves marking the workpiece and cutting it out of a tin sheet.
Forming involves forming the profile of a pipe or other product.
In the final, the opposite edges of the workpiece are connected.

And now more detailed description each stage of the manufacture of tin pipes with their own hands.

Preparatory stage

First, markings are applied to the sheet of tin, along which the semi-finished product will be cut. In other words, the necessary part is cut off from a certain tin sheet, from which the contour of the future pipe will be formed. The marking process is carried out as follows: the tin is laid out on a workbench and a segment equal to the length of the pipe is measured from the upper edge. This is where the marker is placed.

Then, using a square, a line is drawn along this mark perpendicular to the side edge. Now along this line the circumference of the pipe, the same is done along the upper edge. At the same time, about 1.5 cm are added along both edges to form the connecting edges. The upper and lower marks are connected and the workpiece is cut out.

To determine the circumference, you can use a tape measure, or you can recall a school geometry course.

How to make a pipe body out of tin

The purpose of this stage is to form a pipe profile. A line is drawn along the length of the workpiece at the bottom and at the top, along which the folds will be bent. At the same time, 5 mm are measured on one side, and 10 mm on the other. The folds must be bent at an angle of 90 0. To do this, the workpiece is placed on a steel corner, combining the fold line with the edge of the corner. Hitting the edge with a mallet, bend it to the perpendicular side of the corner.

Now, on a fold, the size of which is 10 mm, another fold of the fold is made to make a kind of letter G. In the process of bending the fold, you need to make sure that the upper fold is parallel to the workpiece, and its length is 5 millimeters. Therefore, when drawing the folding line of the fold, 0.5 cm is measured on one side once, and on the other side, twice 0.5 cm each.

After forming the folds, you can proceed to the formation of the pipe body. To do this, the workpiece sheet is placed on the sizing element and they begin to tap with a mallet or other the right tool to get a profile of a particular shape. First, the workpiece takes U shape and then becomes round. In this case, the folds must be joined together.

Processing the junction of the folds

The final stage involves the processing of the butt joint, that is, its crimping. To do this, the upper part of the L-shaped fold is folded down, wrapping the edge of the other fold. The result should be a kind of sandwich, located perpendicular to the pipe. To get a docking seam, you need to press the sandwich to the product.

For greater reliability, the butt joint is strengthened with rivets. However, do-it-yourself tin pipes using this docking method do not need additional reinforcement.

How to make a pipe out of tin - we make tin pipes with our own hands
How to make a tin pipe: how to bend a tin pipe, do-it-yourself galvanized chimney, sheet metal fabrication

The edges of thin sheet metal are most often joined into a lock - by clamping one edge into the other, but occasionally other methods are used that may be needed more often in the works of a young master. These are the methods.

The edges of the sheets can simply be soldered. It is clear that this will be the most fragile way, especially if the metal sheets are thin. This will be a butt joint (1). Such a connection can be used where strength is not required, but an inconspicuous connection is needed. In thicker sheets, the butt joint is made with teeth (2). This is actually what no longer tinsmiths do, but coppersmiths - craftsmen who make copper utensils, tanks, pipes, caps, etc. The butt connection can be made stronger by soldering with inside plate (3). This will be a butt with an overlay. Stronger connection - overlap (4). One edge is superimposed on the other, the seam is soldered or fastened with rivets. But this connection already has a protruding edge, which is not always convenient. You can bend the edges at one edge and at the other, hook them and squeeze them with mallet blows. This will already be a simple lock (5).

The most common connection method is a double lock (6). It is done like this. In one piece, the edge is bent at a right angle, in the second, the edge is also bent, but in the other direction, and pressed against the piece, and then this edge is bent at a right angle in the opposite direction. Both bent edges are connected to each other, bent towards the first edge, and the seam is pierced with a mallet. WITH reverse side it will be smoother, which must be taken into account when joining in this way. The sequential course of work is schematically shown in the following figure:

All kinds of tin products are most often connected with a double lock.

Occasionally, tinsmiths use a connection with rivets. However, this method is more often used when it is necessary to rivet a handle, an eyelet, a strip, etc. Occasionally, the seams are strengthened with rivets into the overlay and with a simple lock. They usually rivet with small rivets, preferably with wide flat caps, in a cold way. In rough work, tinsmiths prefer rivets rolled from a piece of tin. To make them, you need to have a piece of iron with holes of different diameters, or a riveter. A diamond-shaped piece of tin is rolled up with a hammer or round-nose pliers, inserted into a riveter, into a hole of a suitable diameter, and the head is riveted. These rivets are soft but certainly don't have the neat look of solid rivets.

Almost all work with thin metal is based on the plasticity of the metal, its ability to bend and flatten. But the master must skillfully use his tool, otherwise these same properties will go to the detriment of the work. How and why remains to be seen.

The main and very first work of the master is the ability to bend the fold, in other words, to bend the edge of the sheet. The work is simple, but also very responsible, since further processes depend on it. It is necessary to bend the fold for a variety of needs: for seam joints, and for edges, for inserting bottoms and others. It is necessary to ensure that the metal only bends, but does not flatten out at the same time. If the metal in the fold is flattened, it will expand. The fold edge will come out bent and the surface of the sheet will warp.

In rough work, where the fold is folded wide, this makes almost no difference. But where greater precision and finesse are required, it will be very noticeable. Let's explain with an example what we can do. Suppose we want to make a tube out of tin and connect it with a double lock. They unfolded the folds with an iron hammer, began to roll up the tube and connect the seam, but it turns out that it is very difficult to connect the seam; the folds turned out to be bent due to the riveting of the metal with a hammer.

Therefore, the folds should always be bent with a wooden mallet on the sharp iron edge of a scrap, iron strip or scraper corner.

The work proceeds in this order. First of all, a fold line is drawn with a thickness gauge. The thicker the metal and the rougher the work, the wider the fold can be taken (10-20 mm, on thin sheet the fold is taken at 3-5 mm). They put the sheet on the edge of the scraper (or devices replacing it) with a fold line, with quick and accurate blows with a mallet beat off this line, first at the ends, and then along the entire length of the fold.

Then they bend the edge of the fold at a right angle, put it on the anvil with the outer side and straighten it with the inner blows of the mallet.

Suppose that you need to bend the fold of a tin cylinder.

It is clear that the diameter of the outer edge of the bent fold will be greater than the diameter of its inner circumference. Therefore, the metal must be riveted along the entire fold, stronger at the outer edge, weaker towards the cylinder.

The fold must be bent with an iron hammer. The cylinder is taken in left hand, outline the width of the bend from the inside with a thickness gauge and apply it to the edge of the support or scrap at an obtuse angle, after which they beat the future fold with the toe of a hammer, beating off the fold line and riveting the edge. Light blows of the hammer are directed so as to rivet the outer edge more strongly. Having bypassed the full circle, reduce the angle of inclination of the cylinder, placing it steeper to the anvil, and continue the work in the same order. It is repeated again and again, all reducing the angle of inclination to a straight line. With such a gradual knocking out, the fold can be bent at a right angle, and it will not burst anywhere. The bent fold is placed on the stove and straightened with mallet blows.

The bottom can already be attached to such a cylinder with a fold with a double lock, only at the circle for the bottom it is necessary to bend the fold or solder the bottom with solder.

Just as the fold on the cylinder is bent, they also act when the edge of the tin product needs to be strengthened and made thicker by rolling a wire into it. The work is carried out in the same order, but with a mallet and without beating off the sharp edge of the fold. The fold should come out smoothly, a lapel must be made on the metal, calculating the width of this lapel according to the thickness of the wire that will go in there.

The width should be taken at about three wire diameters, adding a little to the thickness of the metal. When the fold is bent at a right angle, it is bent back with a mallet, turning the cylinder on a round anvil. Then they put it on the stove, insert the wire and fix it with a few blows of the mallet on the lapel. With a mallet on a round anvil and a plate, they finally press and smooth the lapel. Turning the product edge up, straighten the rolled edge from above. If the lapel turned out to be not wide enough, it is now very easy to fix it by piercing the top with a mallet with a pull of the blow outward. On products with straight edges, rolling the wire into the edge is, of course, even easier.

From processing methods thin metal based on riveting and drawing metal, the young master should definitely get acquainted with gouging. By knocking out a flat plate of metal, a various convex shape is given. In this way, it is possible to knock out the bottoms and covers of boilers, hoods and a variety of streamlined parts for aircraft models, plating for ship models, etc. Above, we already had a similar job - this knocking out of a bucket.

Knocking out is a job that requires patience. You can not hit once or twice with a hammer and get good hood. It is necessary to slowly beat with a hammer, all the time moving the product, gradually increasing the depth of drawing and finally straightening and smoothing the surface of the product with light strokes.

There are basically two ways to pull. The first way is when the metal is flattened on a convex anvil, starting from the middle to the edges. The middle will be the thinnest, but the product will be convex. The work is carried out with an iron hammer. According to the second method, they are knocked out with a mallet or a hammer with a round end on a mandrel (matrix) having the corresponding shape.

As an example, we give the knocking out of the same bucket. On a wooden kolobashka or a thick board, several round recesses of various depths must be made. They are cut with a semicircular chisel, and then smoothed with blows of a round hammer. A round plate of metal is placed over the first recess and a hammer or a round mallet is knocked out until a properly rounded surface without wrinkles is obtained. The same technique is repeated in the following, deeper matrices. In conclusion, we will get a bucket along the profile of the matrix. According to a different profile and a different cutting, we could get a different shape.

Sometimes a young master will have to knock out longitudinal recesses on thin metal plates. The cross section of such a plate will turn out to be figured, and the plate will become rigid.

As in any other business, the marking and cutting of the material, the beginning of work, is a very important operation, on which further success depends. From this it is clear that this work requires special care and accuracy. The most simple work- this is cutting and making a simple open rectangular box with upright or divergent sides, with or without a toe.

From a sheet of tin cut out a rectangle of the appropriate size (a). When cutting, it is necessary to take into account the area of the bottom and the height of the walls. A thickness gauge draws a line of folds. One corner is cut off if you need to make a sock in the box. Turning the sheet over on the board, cut off the corners of the bisector of the corners with the toe of the hammer approximately to the border of the future bends of the walls (b). Turning the sheet over again, on the edge of the anvil (a piece of iron) they bend the sides with a mallet (c), but not quite. They are trimmed at the rectangular end of the anvil and bent with a mallet close to the wall (d). The cut corner for the toe remains not bent, it is slightly flattened, making a gutter out of it. The box is ready (e).

The work, as you can see, is quite simple, but it must also be done carefully.

Cutting and manufacturing cylindrical shapes presents no particular difficulty. For the cylinder, it is necessary to cut out a rectangle equal to the height of the future pipe, and 3.14 times the diameter of this pipe with an increase in seam rolling.

In the manufacture of conical products (bucket, funnel and others), all methods of work will remain the same, only when cutting you will have to remember the geometry. All conical objects must be correctly depicted in a sweep, and this is the most important thing.

Let's take the easiest way to cut. Let's try to make a conical bucket. First of all, you need to draw its average section, along the axis. It will appear as a trapezoid; continue the sides of the trapezoid until they intersect. The intersection point is the center from which two arcs are drawn - from the long base of the trapezoid and from the short one. You will get a ring, from a part of which the surface of the conical bucket will be made. The width of this ring is the height of the bucket. You just need to remember to add to roll up the top edge and bend the bottom.

The length of the part of this ring we need is determined by the diameter of the bucket. Approximately three diameters with an addition for a double lock is what you need to take from the ring. Having set aside 3.14 diameters of the outer hole or the bottom of the bucket along the upper or lower arc, a line is drawn along the radius. Increases for a double lock are already made parallel to these radial lines. This will cut the surface of the bucket. Any conical shape is drawn in the same way, whether it is a whole or a truncated cone: the height of the figure is plotted along the radius, and the length of the scan is along the circumference.

Tin is a material that belongs to rolling products. This is a variety. After rolling, the sheet is treated with anti-corrosion agents.

In order to make such a pipe you will need only 2-3 tools

For heating equipment, you can independently make tin pipes for the chimney. This material elastic, so processed by hand. In addition, steel is characterized by rigidity and strength, so tin products of special strength are made from it.

What tin to choose

Before making a pipe out of tin, a suitable one is selected. For chimneys, thin sheet metal coated with a special compound is recommended.

The tin pipe removes smoke and increases draft.

Tin is black and white. The black material type is thin sheet and cold rolled steel. Products are made from steels of various grades. The material is offered by manufacturers in sheets or rolls.

Tinplate is a material coated with tin on both sides, which is processed by electrolytic and hot tinning methods. This material is a low carbon and thin sheet.

The processing method endows the steel with rust resistance and ductility.

Production is accompanied by the control of the composition of substances. The method of processing and content affects the receipt of material of different grades.

The white type of tinplate is treated to improve the surface for adhesion with lacquer coatings.

Lacquered tin is used. The varnishing process is used to protect surfaces from external factors.

Black and white type of material is of the following types:

the single-rolled sheet is a mild steel product that is processed by cold rolling to the desired thickness;
the metal of double rolling after the first rolling procedure is subjected to the second rolling and special lubrication, which reduces the thickness of the product.

The material is classified according to the degree of hardness and the amount of tin used.

Tin pipe has technically universal qualities.

What tools are needed

Before doing tin work, it is worth picking up a set of materials and tools. You will need equipment for tin work.

You will need a sheet of thin tin. To make the pipe even, a material with a smooth structure and clear corners is taken. Do not use sheet with torn edges.

Cutting the material does not require effort, but getting started, it is worth preparing the following tinsmith tools:

Metal scissors are used to cut the segment into blanks.
A mallet is used or rubber mallet that doesn't leave dents. The weight of the tool is selected heavy, but the impact force is controlled.
Pliers or tongs are used to make bends.
Recommended machines for tin work. A workbench is suitable, which allows you to evenly position the sheet and mark it out.
For calibration, a thick-walled tube and a corner are used, which is mounted to the edge of the workbench. The corner is chosen massive, since the metal is bent on it. The pipe helps in the manufacture of the longitudinal seam of the line.
A thin steel rod is used as a marker. It is made independently. To do this, sharpen a nail.
A measurement tool is recommended. Roulettes and squares are suitable for this.

You will need a round part to assemble the product. For this, a pipe with a cross section of 90 mm and not too long is recommended.

Instructions for making a tin pipe for ventilation with a do-it-yourself cap

To make a pipe from a sheet of iron means to perform a sequence of actions. The work consists of simple steps. First, preparation takes place, which consists of marking parts and cutting blanks.

At the stage of forming the body of the structure, an element of circular section is created. When connecting, it is required to fix the elements into one product.

Adapters for connecting pipes made of tin

You can make markup and preparation in several stages:

The tin sheet is placed on the surface without joints. Suitable for this flooring or workbench.
A segment is marked from the upper edge, which is equal in size to the future highway. Marking is performed by a marking device. Manufacturing also takes place.
A line is drawn through the mark. In this case, a square is used.
From the line, the width of the segment is marked, which is equal to the cross section of the pipe. 15 mm per joint is added to the obtained value.
The resulting markings are connected, and the workpiece is cut.

When marking, it is worth considering the size of the product. Width is the size of the diameter plus one and a half additional centimeters. The length of the workpiece must be greater than the straight section of the structure.

Do-it-yourself work with tin is done as follows:

The folds are bent to the surface of the sheet at a right angle. Previously, line markings are made under them. mallet. The sheet is placed on the edge of the table with a descent to desired length and with the help of a rubber mallet, a bend is made. Work is carried out along the entire length of the product.
Do-it-yourself tin pipe involves another bend on the fold. This does the markup.
A round element is used to construct the pipe. On it is a galvanized sheet, which is given a rounded shape. In this case, the bent ends of the pipe are connected.

The bends are made so that the mallet fits exactly on the surface of the corner. The blows are made precise and clear, but not strong, otherwise the seam will flatten.

The production of tin products is completed by docking. In this case, the edges are aligned, and

seam is attached. Wherein horizontal section bends down and covers the edge. The protruding seam is bent to the surface with a mallet. The bend is performed away from the l-shaped fold. If you do otherwise, then water will penetrate inside.

Do-it-yourself tin products need to be connected. The edges are fastened with aluminum or steel rivets.

Holes for rivets are made every three centimeters.
The edges bend towards each other.
The workpiece is folded back so that the edges are on the outside of the structure.
The edges are mounted with rivets.

To facilitate the connection of the structure, the element in the wide side should be slightly flared. To ensure rigidity from the edges of the product. Proper marking contributes to ease of docking with other elements, even factory-made.

Similar products are used for gutters, ventilation systems and chimney structures.

Features of working with tin: how to bend a sheet of iron and cut it

To create products from tin with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with some of the nuances of working with this material. Recommendations will help facilitate installation and create a design in the shortest possible time.

To give the tin sheet the necessary shape will allow an element of the appropriate configuration. Flexion performs tapping using a hammer.
To make the fold even, tapping is carried out close to each other.
Facilitate the cutting of a workpiece from steel will help special loop leather. This element is mounted on scissors and put on fingers.
After cutting, the edge is processed with a plow, which is prepared from hacksaw material.
Tin products sometimes need to be cut. This is done to give a curly shape to the product. This procedure is performed with a can opener.

In order for the material to be cut well with a knife, it is filed with a hacksaw, and then a knife or scissors is used.

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Tin work is simple and you can do it yourself. The ability to make such a design is useful in everyday life. A tin pipe is made simply, the main thing is to know certain nuances of the process.

For self-manufacturing round pipes will require thin sheet steel, black or galvanized, with a thickness of 0.45 - 0.5 - 0.55 mm . This thickness of the material is sufficient when installing low-pressure or household ventilation, exhaust from gas equipment, drainage system. On a sheet of metal with a sharp metal scriber, using a long ruler, draw a pattern for the future pipe. Measure the length of the workpiece equal to the length of the pipe. If the pipe will be inserted into the next one, then add the length of the "bolt" to the length of the workpiece (for example, 7 cm ). Calculate the width of the pattern by multiplying 3.14 by the inner diameter of the pipe in millimeters: D * 3.14 (mm). To the resulting size, add allowances for the seam connection - according to 14 mm on both sides, or 28 mm to the width of the pattern on either side. The final formula for the width of the workpiece: 3.14D + 28 (mm). Cut out the outlined workpiece from the sheet hand scissors for metal.

Cut along the length of the workpiece and bendin opposite directions, two edges for the seam connection of the pipe. Folded Edge Width 7 mm . These edges can be bent and oblique, for example: for one end of the future pipe 7 mm , and for its other end - 9 mm (or 6 by 8 mm). Then the pipes will be easily and tightly enough inserted one into the other. The sequence for preparing the seam connection is shown in the figure:

To give a straight sheet of tin the shape of a pipe, you need a thick-walled metal pipe with a diameter of 80 - 100 mm, suspended horizontally from a board or flat wall in two "hooks" of sheet steel strips, as shown in the following figure. Fill the pipe pattern with prepared folds into the gap between the board and the suspended pipe, and gradually bend around the mandrel pipe until desired shape, after each deflection, moving (pushing) the workpiece down:

Remove the workpiece from the fixture, check how correctly and evenly it is "rolled" into the shape of the pipe. Fasten the folds into the lock. Make sure that both seam edges fit securely into each other along the entire length of the connection. Put the seamed workpiece (or part of it) on the section of the rail extended beyond the workbench. Seal the pipe seam with a wooden mallet. Settle the material along the entire seam, that is, cut it with the edge of a hammer or mallet, creatingthus an additional lock that will not allow the seam edges to move out of the joint. The reliability of the assembly can be insured with a rivet.

Irregularities and possible ribbing homemade pipe straighten on the rail with a wooden mallet. Sheet steel for the manufacture of tubular products, choose one on the surface of which does not remain at all, or an inconspicuous mark remains when it is bent and unbent. This property of the metal can be checked by slightly bending and immediately straightening the tin in the corner of the sheet. If for the manufacture of the pipe is used roll material, or a galvanized sheet, clearly cut off from the roll, then it should be cut so that the direction of bending, rolling of the workpiece coincides with the direction of the rolled roll - this will reduce the manifestation of ribs along the deflection lines. Optimum pipe length 1m or 1.25 meters , which coincides with the transverse dimensions of standard tin sheets.

Mechanized production of pipes from thin sheet steel is carried out on machines, different ways, which are briefly described on the page.