Well      06/26/2020

Gutter installation. How to install gutters if the roof is already covered: we install the gutters correctly with our own hands, choosing the appropriate option. Do-it-yourself installation of a gutter system - installation of roof drains

The drainage system involves the collection and disposal of precipitation, as well as melt water, but the possibilities of such systems do not end there, since they can be used to direct the liquid directly into the storm sewer. As a result, atmospheric precipitation does not fall on the walls, while ensuring the safety of the blind area. In addition, the accumulation of water near the foundation and in basements is excluded, which guarantees an extension of the life of the building.

In this article, we will look at some types of rain sewers, and also learn how to make them yourself.

The design of the gutter assumes the presence of special gutters for the removal of precipitation, which are installed along the perimeter of the roof using brackets. Due to the fact that the storm drain repeats the configuration of the upper element of the building along its base, there are both external and internal corners. At the same time, all elements of the system are interconnected with sufficient tightness, which is provided by rubber seals.

Many consider such elements to be superfluous, since the option of overlapping the gutters is available, when one part overlaps another by at least 30 cm, and their connection is carried out by means of self-tapping screws.

To ensure the removal of precipitation, holes are made in certain places of the gutter, necessary for the installation of funnels. After that, sewer pipes are connected to the installed cone-shaped devices, that is, they are integrated into the overall system.

When the roof has a large overhang, a curved cylindrical product is used, which is possible with the help of additional elements in the form of knees and special rings. The downpipe is mounted on the wall of the house with clamps.

The result of such an assembly is the creation of a system of the required configuration. For self-arrangement storm drain you will need a plan of the house with its exact dimensions. This will allow you to understand what elements will need to be purchased for the future design, as well as determine their quantity.

Kinds

Drainage systems may differ in the method of installation and the material used. In the first case, the water drainage facility is classified as home-made and industrial, and in the second - as plastic and metal.

Homemade drain

An independent solution to the issue of arranging rainwater drainage has certain advantages. Such a system can turn out not only beautiful, but also original. You can realize almost any fantasy in terms of creating a structure to protect your home from water. In this case, it is worth considering some nuances.

A home-made system requires significant costs and regular maintenance, since its arrangement is usually carried out using galvanizing, which quickly begins to rot. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the certain complexity of joining some elements.

We have tried to take into account common mistakes masters and below gave the installation rules.

Factory drain

Buying a factory rainwater system will save you from many problems of non-compliance with standards and parameters. When purchasing certain elements of the drain from one manufacturer, you do not have to worry that they will not fit each other, since the factory is distinguished by the release of standardized products.

Plastic drain

Plastic-based systems are adhesive, which involves installation storm sewer with glue, and glueless, assembled through the use of rubber bands. Regardless of the choice of installation method, plastic gutters have the following advantages:

  • resistance to ultraviolet radiation;
  • no corrosion;
  • strength;
  • light weight;
  • wide operating temperature range - from -40 °C to +70 °C;
  • the possibility of creating a drain of any configuration, which is due to a rich assortment of components;
  • lack of need for regular care;
  • ease of installation;
  • variety of color solutions.

However, plastic also has a number of disadvantages, including the following:

  • poor resistance to mechanical stress, which excludes the possibility of installing a plastic structure on high-rise buildings;
  • regular replacement of rubber seals, which can be carried out exclusively by disassembling the problem area and reassembling after the malfunction has been eliminated;
  • the inability to restore one or another destroyed tool, which characterizes such systems as insufficiently repairable;
  • significant linear expansion of plastic elements.

metal drain

Storm sewers made of metal differ from each other in that they can be galvanized, copper and with a zinc layer supplemented with a polymer coating. The choice of a particular type of design is based on characteristics such as price and service life. In any case, metal gutters are good because they:

The disadvantages of such systems include:

  • significant weight of the gutter structure as a whole;
  • a small number of components, which makes it difficult to install such systems on roofs that have angles other than 90 degrees;
  • installation complexity;
  • high price;
  • a small selection of colors;
  • susceptibility to corrosion (except for copper systems);

It is quite difficult to determine which drain is better, since a lot depends on various factors, for example, operating conditions. At the same time, it is necessary to understand that it is not the cost of the structure that is of primary importance, but its compliance with the quality parameters.

Do-it-yourself gutter from various materials

Below are some examples of how to rainwater drainage for the roof yourself. This lesson is not difficult, the main thing is to have a desire to do such work, understand the process of creating a system and know some options for executing the plan. For example, a drain can be made from a sewer pipe, tin, sheet metal, wood, polyethylene, etc.

Sewage pipe

For correct calculation parameters of the gutter in accordance with the expected intensity of the rain flow, it is necessary to determine the effective roof area. If such calculations cause you difficulties, you can use the average values, which involves the preparation of the following elements of the system:

  • plastic pipe with a diameter of 50 mm for arranging water drainage;
  • a cylindrical product with a thickness of 100 to 110 mm, necessary for the manufacture of gutters;
  • adapters that make it possible to connect the above-mentioned elements to each other when the diameter reaches 110 mm at the inlet and 50 mm at the outlet.

Since a sewer pipe made of plastic was taken for the manufacture of gutters, it will need to be opened into two halves that are the same size. To do this, you can use the grinder, electric jigsaw or hand saw. The first option is preferred, but there are some process nuances here.

If you cut the pipe with a grinder, then plastic will inevitably stick to a special casing, so it is advisable to dismantle this safety element. As a result, it is recommended to use other protection, part of which is a mandatory face mask. Although there is a more optimal solution to the problem - to buy a special disc designed to work with plastic.

For a high-quality connection of gutters and tees, do not open the pipe to the end: leave about 150 mm at the edges.

Metal

A sheet of metal is taken and folded into strips so that their width is 25 cm. Then these parts are shaped into a gutter, that is, they bend accordingly. The use of galvanized sheet or tin implies the mandatory manufacture of durable steel brackets. To do this, you can use a wire rod (6 mm), but then you have to double the number of hooks.

Making your own brackets should not be difficult. To do this, it is enough to take a saw cut of a log with a diameter of 20 cm or more and wind the wire around it, making about three turns. After that, it is necessary to remove the resulting workpiece and compress it. Then you need to bend the edge of the structure by 4 cm to fix it on the roof, and shape the rest of the part in accordance with the required profile.

With the help of the same screws, the brackets are installed on the roof. Then the gutters are suspended and the water collectors are leveled to form the desired slope.

Wood and polyethylene

As a starting material for the construction of this type of drain, a thin board should be used, the total length of which would be equal to the double perimeter in relation to the roof overhang. After that, you can proceed to the direct manufacture of the drain:

  1. Connect the boards in pairs with nails at an angle of 90 degrees.
  2. Assemble gutters that match the length of the walls of the house, which must be overlapped.
  3. Make fasteners for installing gutters in the form of hooks using boards or wire rod. The best solution would be to use not a wire, but a piece of lumber, the use of which involves cutting triangular grooves that serve to fasten the gutter.
  4. Fasten the brackets to the corners of the wall, e.g. with nails.
  5. Install narrow channels, guides rain water from the upper part of the building, observing the overlap of their edges.
  6. Adjust the slope of the gutters and lay them in polyethylene film, securing it with shoe nails, buttons or tape.

A wooden gutter is quite suitable for the manufacture of a drainpipe, if its length is at least 2.5 m. When digging a ditch, a slope should be created that contributes to the removal of precipitation from the wall of the house at a distance of at least 1.5 m.

A wooden weir from the roof will last longer if, to ensure tightness, you use not a plastic film, but a silicone sealant, having previously treated the wood with a preservative compound.

Installation nuances

After all the blanks are made, we will consider in more detail how to equip the drainage system with our own hands. Mounting of brackets is carried out with the obligatory creation of a slope towards the funnels, when, taking into account the running meter, it is assumed vertical offset by 5 mm. If there is a need to accelerate the flow of water, this slope can be increased to 10 mm.

If the length of the pediment does not exceed 10 m, a slope is made to one of the sides. A greater value involves the installation of an additional funnel installed in the middle with a downpipe connected to it to form a drain. But it is also possible to make two slopes of the gutter coming from the middle of the gable.

To install gutters you need:

  • fix the first bracket at the point of maximum height of the sewerage system;
  • fix the second, taking into account the fact that it will be below the first, thereby creating the required slope;
  • between the installed brackets, pull the twine, which serves as a guide for marking the attachment points for other supporting parts of this type.

The described process of installing storm sewers looks quite simple in terms of its implementation, but there are certain nuances. To create a slope, they are mainly guided by the horizontal, which is the front board, known as the wind board.

But is it always installed with strict horizontality? It is desirable to verify this, for example, using a hydraulic level or level. You can also use a simple version in the form of a bubble device, but only on condition that its length is 1 m or more.

Installation of a metal drain

Installation metal structure a little more difficult. The system is equipped in compliance with a certain order of work: first hooks are installed, then funnels are cut in, gutters are connected to each other, plugs and other elements are used to form the system as such, including connecting drain pipes.

Hooks

The installation of long hooks at the stage of building a house, that is, before the roof is laid, is the predominant fastening of these parts to the rafters. If the upper element of the building cover is already equipped, short rods are used, the installation site of which is the frontal board.

The use of long hooks is preferable, as this allows you to give the system additional strength. In any case, regardless of the type of fastening, the hook installation step should be observed - from 600 to 900 mm. If this is not followed, the system is likely to collapse due to the load created by the snow. To calculate the required number of hooks, there is a simple formula:

n=L/b

where L is the distance that determines the distance between the first two installed metal rods from each other, b is the installation step of the supporting parts of the type in question.

Number of hooks required for erection drainage system, is calculated not only using the above formula, but also taking into account the fact that these supporting parts must be present at the joints of the gutter and at its ends.

To create a flow of collected water towards the funnel, the system is given a slope of 5 mm per linear meter of the gutter. As a result, there is a need for vertical displacement of fasteners, which can be calculated using the following formula:

h = 0.005 x L,

where L is the distance available between the extreme hooks.

For example, with a gutter length of 10 m, a vertical offset of 5 cm will be determined. The installation of the so-called starting hooks is carried out taking into account the vertical offset. The installation of other supporting parts is carried out along the line, which is marked with a twine stretched between two hooks originally installed.

Before proceeding with the installation of these parts, it is advisable to check how the position of the cornice corresponds to the horizontal level, as this may affect the accuracy of the layout. Hooks must be fastened with a distance of at least 25 mm between the line created by the roof slope and the edge of the gutter looking outward.

Funnels

Mark the places for mounting the funnels, and then cut out the holes in the shape of the letter V. If it is planned to install a drain 125 by 90 mm, then the width of such openings should be from 100 to 110 mm. When mounting a structure 150 by 100 mm - from 120 to 130 mm. In this case, it is necessary to observe the distance of the top edge of the gutter from the cutout in accordance with a minimum distance of 15 mm.

Stubs

Installation of such devices is carried out at the ends of the gutter. The implementation of this process involves the direct installation of a plug, followed by sealing the connection using a special silicone compound. Greater density can be given due to the effectiveness of the rubber mallet.

gutters

Using a hook, fasten the gutter by driving its inner edge into the retainer and ensuring that the outer edge is held due to the lamellar type of this fastener.

Such installation involves fastening the gutter, observing that the outer edge of this element of the system must be 6 mm lower than the inner one. Setting the proposed angle of inclination is necessary to exclude the possibility of water ingress on the facade during heavy rainfall.

The roof covering in this case should be above the gutter, capturing 50 mm of its width. At the same time, the slope line should not reach the edge of the gutter by 40 mm. Although a run-up is usually formed due to the fact that the narrow channel is installed at a slope, that is, at the top of the gutter it can be 20 mm, and at the bottom - 70 mm.

Upon completion of the installation of the channel that collects and directs water from the roof of the building, a cornice strip is installed. Its lower edge should hang over the gutter, as this eliminates the possibility of the front board getting wet.

Connectors and corners

Special connectors make it possible to connect the gutters. As part of such elements there are rubber gaskets, which not only guarantee the tightness of the docking, but also eliminate the negative effects of thermal expansion.

Gutters should be fixed with the condition that there will be a gap of 3 to 4 mm between them. Direct installation of connectors involves the following set of actions: bend the lock at an angle within 90 degrees; install the device so that its rolled side is put on the back of the gutter; align the product and snap the lock.

Downspouts

This stage involves the mandatory installation of at least 2 brackets with a step of 1 m. The supporting parts must be installed at the joints of the pipes and where the elbow is mounted.

If the walls of the house are wooden or the material they are made of is rather soft, then the brackets are fixed with self-tapping screws. For concrete and brick walls installation of support parts involves the use of a drill.

The final installation process is the connection of the elbow of the cylindrical product, the drain and connecting pipes, as well as the drain elbow. Given that the connecting pipe is crimped on both sides, the product may well be used when installing two risers, since it is available for cutting.

If there is a need to get a connecting pipe about 90 cm long, for this it is enough just to get rid of the upper crimp, that is, cut it off. The height of the drain elbow from the ground level should be no more than 200 mm, as this avoids water splashing.

The last nuances of installing the system are connecting the sewer pipe to the funnel and snapping the bracket locks.

Installation of drainage cylindrical products should be carried out by crimping down, which is necessary in order to eliminate the possibility of leakage.

PVC gutter installation

There is nothing complicated in installing this design, however, some nuances must be taken into account:


  • indicate how the system will be placed, taking into account the fact that the entire volume of precipitation collected from the roof should fall into it;
  • determine the location of funnels and corners;
  • install the first bracket at the highest point in relation to the cone;
  • using twine and a level, determine a horizontal line passing through the point where the bracket is installed, and, starting from it, set the slope;
  • install the last support part and connect it to the first one with twine;
  • to mount other brackets in compliance with the step of 40 cm, adhering to the marked slope line.
  1. Gutter installation:
  • prepare a narrow channel by making segments from it of the required length;
  • connect the components of the drain using the appropriate elements or glue;
  • install the gutter on the brackets, using the latches and avoiding the joints of both the channels themselves and the funnels getting on these supporting elements;
  • install plugs.
  1. Installation of a sewerage system:
  • connect the pipe to the gutter by diverting the drain;
  • align the vertical of the cylindrical structure with a plumb line and square;
  • fix the pipes forming the structure for removing precipitation in order to determine the installation locations of the clamps with a step of 1 m, but with the obligatory location of the upper part on the line of the first joint;
  • fix the connecting elements on the wall, taking into account the fact that the sewer pipe after installation will be 2 cm away from the side structure of the house;
  • mount the drain socket on the hatch, but without rigid fixation, so that the drain can be controlled.

We tried to touch on all the nuances of installing a rain sewer. A number of works are quite difficult to carry out alone, so it is recommended to use a partner.

The purpose of the roof over the house does not need to be explained. One of the functions is to protect the attic or attic from precipitation, i.e. from water leakage. But, flowing down the slopes of the roof, water inevitably falls on the walls and foundation. As a result, they break down very quickly. load-bearing elements building structures.

The destructive effect of water can be avoided by installing a roof drainage system. Before we start the master class on installing gutters, a little theory.

Types of drainage systems

The drainage system has two signs of classification, which determine the technology of its installation:

1. According to the method of manufacture - home-made, industrial.

Handicraft production, i.e. homemade gutter from the roof. Facts such as the ability to make a beautiful and unusual gutter with your own hands speak in favor of this system. Making a homemade system does not involve significant costs. In addition, it can be mounted according to a user-friendly scheme. The undoubted disadvantage is the need for constant maintenance, since gutters are usually made of galvanized steel, which quickly rots. Among the conditional disadvantages is the difficulty of docking individual elements and mediocre appearance.

Factory production (factory). This method involves maintaining all standards and parameters. That is, if necessary, you can easily join different elements from different supplies of the same manufacturer.

2. According to the material used - plastic, metal.

According to the installation method, an adhesive system is distinguished (installation takes place using glue) and glueless (installation on sealing rubber bands).

Advantages of plastic gutters:

  • immunity to ultraviolet. High-quality plastic drainage system will not burn out during the entire period of operation;
  • not subject to corrosion;
  • the adhesive system is maintenance-free, since the “ cold welding» during which the connection of elements occurs at the molecular level;
  • strength;
  • light weight;
  • ease of installation;
  • the presence of different colors;
  • a wide variety of components allows you to create a drainage system desired configuration, which makes it indispensable for installation on broken roofs.

Disadvantages of PVC gutters:

  • plastic can be destroyed by mechanical stress. Therefore, such systems cannot be installed on high-rise buildings. The plastic drainage system is mounted only on a low-rise private house;
  • repair failure. A destroyed element cannot be restored;
  • a plastic drainage system with sealing rubber bands requires periodic replacement of seals, which entails disassembly / assembly of elements;
  • high coefficient of linear expansion.

Drainage system from metal profile has several varieties: galvanized, copper, galvanized with a polymer coating (painted). The main difference between them is the cost and duration of operation. The appearance is shown in the photo.

Advantages of metal gutters:

  • strength;
  • reliability;
  • stand significant snow loads and other environmental influences;
  • do not support combustion;
  • operating temperature -60°С +130°С;
  • dimensional stability.

Disadvantages of metal gutters:

  • high price;
  • significant weight of the entire system;
  • complexity of installation;
  • small selection of colors;
  • the appearance of rust when the protective layer is damaged (an exception is a copper drainage system);
  • a small number of elements makes it suitable only for installation on roofs with angles of 90°.

Which drainage system is better, plastic or metal, it is difficult to answer unambiguously, it all depends on the specific operating conditions and other factors. In any case, the choice of a drainage system should be based on quality indicators, not price.

From the position of this classification, we will consider how to properly mount the drainage system with our own hands.

Installation of a drainage system - instructions

Like any construction process, the technology of installing gutters includes the selection of a system, material and calculations.

There are several options for drainage systems, depending on their throughput. For example, 100/75, 125/90, 150/110. This marking shows the ratio of the diameter of the pipe and gutter. Visually, the system of circular section 125/100 and square section is in the photo.

Advice. Each manufacturer has its own dimensions of gutters, pipes. Their configuration is also different. Therefore, do not even try to dock systems from different manufacturers.

Such a variety of systems is necessary so that each user can choose the one that suits his needs.

Choosing a drainage system

To choose the right water drainage system you need:

  • get acquainted with the maximum level of precipitation in your area;
  • calculate the area of ​​​​the slope (S). Not all, but the largest in size. It is its size that will determine the choice of gutter

S \u003d (A + B / 2) x C

Nuance. For flat roofs(the slope angle does not exceed 10°) the formula takes the form
S = A x C

Based on these measurements, select the desired system in the table.

After the system is selected, you need to determine the type and calculate the amount of materials. To do this, we will prepare drawings or diagrams of planes with dimensions. They will simplify the calculation and then the installation of the drainage system.

Calculation of the drainage system

We will illustrate, using the example of a house, how to calculate the amount of materials for installing a drainage system.

Gutter gutter - semicircular (semicircular section) and rectangular (rectangular section).

Designed to collect precipitation (rain and melt water) from the roof.

The length of the gutter is 3-4 m. It is fixed with the help of hooks and brackets, which are installed in steps of 60-90 cm, ensuring that the slope of the gutter is at least 1 cm for every 3-4 meters.

Their number in linear meters is equal to the perimeter of the base of the roof. That is, the length of all surfaces on which the gutter will be mounted. Gutter dimensions - sold by the piece in 3 and 4 m.p.

For a house the size of our example, you will need 3-meter gutters - 10 pcs. 4 meters - 1 pc.

Nuance. Round all dimensions to the nearest whole gutter length. The fewer connections, the easier, more reliable and cheaper the installation will end up.

  • Gutter angles (external (external) and internal, 90 and 135 degrees).

The corner gutter is designed to change the direction (distribution) of water flows. Mounting method: mounted on external and inside corners roofs.

We will need 4 outside corners and 2 inside corners, all 90 degrees.

If a house or cottage has sharp or obtuse corners, you need to choose the system in which such corners exist.

Advice. A variety of angles can be made from a plastic gutter by cutting out part of the gutter and connecting the halves under right angle. Parts are connected using glue - cold welding.

  • Gutter funnels, connectors, gutter plugs.

For our example - 4 funnels, 2 plugs. Connectors can be - 5 or 17. Depending on the features of the installation of a particular system. In most drainage systems, corners are fastened directly to the gutter. But in some - with the use of a connector.

In drainage systems where installation is carried out with the use of glue, conventional connectors and expansion joints should be used.

Compensatory is installed with a roof length of more than 8 r.m. Its installation is carried out without the use of glue. Such a connector is designed to compensate for the linear expansion of the gutter during heating / cooling. For our example, 4 regular connectors and one compensating one would be required.

Advice. One funnel receives water from 10 m.p. gutters. If the length of the wall is longer - you need to put two funnels. In our example, we did just that. In this case, the distance between two adjacent funnels cannot exceed 20 m.p.

  • Gutter hooks.

Hooks can be long or short. The first are designed to hang the gutter on the rafters and are attached before installation. roofing material. The second (short) ones are used for attaching the gutter to the frontal board, respectively, it is possible to install it on a finished roof, i.e. covered with roofing material.

The gutter fastening hook is installed at intervals of 60 cm. At the same time, installation is mandatory near corners, funnels, plugs and at junctions. In our example - 68 hooks.

  • Downspouts (for vertical drain), pipe fittings/brackets.

The pipe can be round and rectangular. Designed for vertical water flow.

The pipe bracket is designed to fix the pipe to the wall. According to the installation method, they distinguish “on a stone” (for fixing on a brick, stone or concrete wall. Fixation by means of a hardware) and "on a tree" (for fixing on wooden walls(beam, log, OSB). fixing with screws).

The number of pipes is determined by the number of funnels. In our example, there are 4 funnels, which means there are also 4 pipe installation sites. their length is equal to the total length of all walls along which the installation is planned. Pipes are also sold in lengths of 3 and 4 m. You need to round up, since the joints on the pipe are also undesirable. Those. if you have a house height of 3.5 m, you need to buy a 4 m pipe. 0.5 will go to waste or for other needs.

Pipe fasteners are installed every meter. At the same time, their installation near the knees is mandatory.

  • Pipe elbow, drain (drain elbow).

If the design of the house is similar to that shown in the photo, then for each riser (we have 4 of them) we need two universal elbows (8 in total) and one drain (4 in total).

Distance L is measured as shown in the figure.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

Nuance. makes some adjustments to the calculation of the drainage system. The height of the attic wall affects the number and installation of gutters. The diagrams below show what needs to be taken into account when calculating.

Installation of a drainage system made of plastic (PVC)

1. Installation of drain funnels (roofing, storm, water intake) on the roof.

The gutter hooks closest to the funnel are installed at a distance of 2 cm from it. They serve as holders.

Advice. The angle of inclination with respect to the funnel is 2° or 3-4 mm. by 1 m. It is convenient to check the slope with the help of a nylon thread.

With a wall length of 10 to 20 meters, it is more advisable to install the gutter in the following ways:

  • Simple slope (straight) - the funnel is installed at the end of the slope.
  • Double slope: "from the middle" or "towards the middle."

In the first case, the middle gutter is at the highest point, and the water moves to the funnels located at the corners of the building. In the second case, two extreme gutters are at the highest point and the water moves to a funnel located in the middle between them. If the length of the gutter exceeds 22 meters, three funnels or a more powerful system are installed.

3. Mounting of the common and compensatory gutter connector (if necessary).

Gutter connectors are installed between the brackets. Equal distance from them.

4. Cut the gutter into blanks desired length. It is desirable to clean the place of the cut.

5. Connection of gutters with a funnel. The gutter is laid on brackets adjacent to the funnel, taking into account the linear expansion of the plastic.

The hole for the funnel can be drilled in the right place of the gutter using a crown.

Some manufacturers label funnels in such a way as to simplify installation. That is, the temperature scale is indicated on the side of the funnel. After checking the temperature overboard, the chute is set at the desired level.

In adhesive systems, the funnel is one of the elements that does not use adhesive when installing.

If provided, at the junction of the gutter and funnel, a sealing gum is installed.

When laying the gutter, the connector must be smeared with glue or sealed with an elastic band.

The compensation connector is mounted without the use of glue.

Nuance. To allow water to flow in a given direction at the end drain pipe it is better to make a "teardrop".

7. Installation of corners and plugs for the gutter is carried out according to the same scheme.

Both the corner and the plug are mounted using glue or sealing rubber bands.

8. Fastening clamps and installation of downpipes.

At the calculated distance, holes are drilled for fastening the clamp.

The installation of the pipe begins with the installation of the elbow (if necessary) or the pipe in the funnel.

Glue or rubber seal is required.

Nuance. The lower pipe is inserted into the upper one with a gap of 2 mm. (linear expansion compensation).

The pipe is attached to the wall with a clamp. Which is installed in pre-drilled holes.

If necessary, a system of splitters (tees) is mounted.

The ebb must be mounted so that the water from it does not destroy the foundation of the house. For example, an outflow diverts water into a drainage system channel or directly into a drainage well.

Installation of a plastic gutter system - video

Installation of a metal drainage system

Step-by-step guide, instructions for installing gutters for a roof made of metal profiles with your own hands.

1. Installation of two extreme brackets.

They can be installed on truss system or on the eaves bar (frontal).



Advice. For a normal outflow of water from the roof, the angle of inclination of the gutter towards the funnel should be 3-4 mm per 1.m.

The bracket is mounted on three self-tapping screws.

With a wall length of more than 10 m, a simple (straight) slope is performed. If the length is more than 10 m - double.

2. Open the gutters.

The place of the saw is cleaned with a file.

Advice. The movement of the saw is carried out in the direction "away from you".

3. Cutting a hole for the funnel.

Advice. The diameter of the hole should be slightly larger than the diameter of the funnel.

The question of how to properly install gutters on the roof should be asked even during the drafting of the building. This will make it possible to correctly calculate all the important points that contribute to the creation of a long and effective protection for the foundation of the building from sedimentary moisture.

Why is it necessary to design gutters

The correct calculation of the required amount of materials for arranging the drainage system will be facilitated by taking into account the following points when drawing up the project:

  • Calculate the total area of ​​the entire roof and each of its slopes separately. The information obtained will allow you to determine the required throughput of the drainage system, the diameter of the pipes and the size of the gutters.
  • Next, make a preliminary plan of how the individual parts of the system will be placed. This will make it possible to plan the sequence of installation operations and calculate the amount of material needed for this.
  • The correct selection of the necessary components is usually complicated by the presence of many options. Most often, their external design is taken as a guideline, which should please the owner and fit into the overall picture of the house. Lifetime cheap plastic products almost the same as metal gutters. Another thing is that such elements do not always look harmoniously on a tiled or copper roof.

What is the drainage system

brackets

They serve to solve the problem of how to properly install gutters on the roof surface. Can have different shape and different materials of manufacture. However, the color of the products must match the color of other roofing elements.


The shape of the brackets directly depends on the method of their attachment:

  1. On the front board. This is the most common way to install gutters if the roof is already covered. Most often, these brackets are included in the PVC systems. Reinforced vertical ribs give the products good load-bearing capacity. For metal systems, such brackets are shortened. When there is no frontal board, the installation of the gutter system on the finished roof can be carried out with combined brackets.
  2. The second method involves the installation of gutters before the roofing material is laid. In this case, the rafter leg acts as the place of fastening of the gutter. Usually extensive roofs are equipped in this way, on which roofing of considerable weight is used. To make the fastening reliable, the rafter pitch is made up to 60 cm.
  3. In the third way, roofs are equipped with a pitch between the rafters of more than 60 cm. Most often they are made out with ondulin or metal tiles. In this case, combined brackets or hooks of considerable length are used. The place of their fastening is the first plank of the frame or the lower part of the flooring.

gutters

Their shape can also be different. It can be round, semicircular, oval, rectangular or a combination. It is recommended to use gutters and brackets from the same set: in this case, their shape is the same. The most versatile is the symmetrical shape, the equipment of which is selected very quickly.


There may also be differences in how to properly fix the drainage system. The simplest of these is the snap method. In this case, rotary latches are used, which make it possible to dismantle the desired part of the gutter very quickly. When choosing products, accounting also requires a degree of linear fluctuations, which is especially famous for PVC structures. Compensation in this case is carried out due to couplings having a notch inside the cavity.

Although metal gutters do not expand as much when heated, it is also desirable to use an expansion joint in the form of a coupling when installing them. To prevent the structures from being covered with ice, they are often equipped with a cable heating system.

Seals

For their manufacture, EPDM rubber is used, which is a modern substitute for rubber sealing. It is characterized by good elasticity, thanks to which the product is able to maintain its shape for a long time. Such seals are not afraid of moisture and other harmful effects. For ease of installation, they are additionally covered silicone grease.

Catchment funnels

With their help, they collect water that flows down the gutters, redirecting it inside the downpipes. Plastic systems are equipped with funnels as separate elements. Funnels are left, right and through. In the first two cases, there is a wall in the form of a plug, which implies their installation at the end of the gutter. The pass-through element can be mounted on any site.


knees

They look like a bent pipe of small length. With their help, drainpipes and funnels are connected, and water is also diverted from the base of the building. Each drainpipe is usually equipped with three elbows: two upper and one lower.

Downspouts

There are rectangular and round, which in no way affects their effectiveness. The selection of a suitable section is carried out taking into account the design of the building and other drainage elements. Drain pipes can be 1-4 m long. PVC products differ from metal ones by the same diameter along the entire length, which provides for the additional use of couplings.


Clamps

Are intended for fastening of pipes on walls of the house. May vary in material and form.

What is the drainage system made of?

Price roof gutters may differ depending on the material of manufacture.

In addition to the price, the characteristics of the products also differ:

  1. Plastic. These are easy to install, light and reliable modern products, the color of which is preserved. long time. The service life of plastic gutters is declared as 20-40 years, at a low cost.
  2. Steel. The popularity of galvanized steel is primarily due to its low cost, with not very good indicators of aesthetics and service life. A more expensive type of material implies the presence of an additional polymer coating. Steel gutters are stronger than plastic ones, which also affects their service life. Mostly they are available in white or brown. Other color options are only possible on an individual basis.
  3. Copper. The most expensive, beautiful and durable products. Able to last for several centuries, however, for this it is important to avoid contact between copper and titanium zinc or galvanized steel. After some time, copper begins to turn green, but this does not impair its performance.
  4. Aluminum. This material is characterized by lightness and durability, up to 50 years. Aluminum gutters can be painted in any color.
  5. Zinc-titanium. A light and shiny alloy that is used in extreme climates. When arranging such structures, it is important to prevent their direct contact with PVC, vapor barrier and pieces of roofing material. The air temperature during the installation of zinc-titanium products should not fall below +10 degrees. Due to the high cost of the material, it is best to entrust the solution of the problem of how to properly install the drainage system to professionals.

How to calculate the material

Before installing a gutter system for a roof, it is necessary to carry out its calculation. The easiest way is to entrust this procedure to the consultants of the company that sells drainage systems. It can also be done by professional roof installers. If you have to count the material yourself, then it is most convenient to start with the gutters. To determine their total length, sum up the length of all slopes from which water will be collected. Having this indicator on hand, it is also quite easy to calculate the number of funnels, which are usually installed at a frequency of 1 piece / 10 linear meters.


Drainpipes are purchased in the same quantity as funnels. Their length corresponds to the height of the roof. Turns are calculated individually, which is affected by the configuration of a particular facade. Clamps and brackets are also not difficult to calculate. For each linear meter of the gutter, one bracket will be required. Clamps are calculated according to the height of the building: there must be at least one clamp on each individual section of the drain.

Installation work - how to fix

Before installing gutters on the roof, you should stock up on the following tools:

  • Hammer.
  • Marking cord.
  • Universal screwdriver.
  • Roulette.
  • Pipe pliers.
  • Hook bender.
  • Hacksaw for metal.

It is strictly forbidden to use a grinder for cutting drainage elements. Heat destroys the polymer protective coating, which subsequently affects the life of the products.


How to properly install a drainage system:

  1. First you need to determine where the brackets will be located. The optimal distance between them is 40-50 cm.
  2. Brackets are marked with marks. With their help, the degree of inclination of the gutter is determined, which can be up to 5 mm / 1 m.
  3. The finished marks serve as a guide for bending the brackets, which is easiest to implement with a hook bender. First, the installation of the extreme holders is carried out, and along the cord stretched between them - and all the rest.
  4. When the gutter of the desired length is assembled, you should refrain from fastening its individual parts: this is done during installation. Under the funnels, holes are cut in the form of the letter V 10 cm from the edge.
  5. Installation of the outlet funnel is carried out by bringing its edge under the bent chute, followed by pressing. At the end, the flange flaps of the funnel are also bent.
  6. The final stage of the procedure, how to correctly install the gutters under the roof, is implemented by alternately laying its individual sections on top of ready-made holders, followed by fixing. Then, the cornice strip is fastened to the crate in such a way as to achieve immersion of its lower edge inside the gutter. Roof waterproofing should be on top of the cornice strip. This will allow condensation from the under-roof space to flow into the drains.
  7. Connect the gutters with an overlap of 20-30 cm, additionally sealing the joints with rubber gaskets.
  8. To protect the spillway from debris, a protective mesh is used. With its help, the outlet funnel of the gutter is formed.
  9. Overflow limiters are needed in those sections of the gutter that are adjacent to the roof fragments.
  10. Connecting pipes fasten two knees. Their length is calculated at the place of installation.
  11. Before fixing the downpipes, the walls of the building are pre-equipped with clamps in the lower, central and upper parts. Additional holders are required at pipe joints. The drain elbow and the blind area should be separated by about 50 cm.

How to install rectangular gutters on the roof

It is also important to know how to properly install a rectangular gutter system. In this case, more effort will have to be made, since the individual parts of such a drain are connected with rivets and sealant. To do this, you need to cut a hole in a cruciform or round shape. Fastening of plugs, corners and gutters is also carried out with rivets and sealant.

Homemade gutters

Exploring options for how to put a gutter on the roof small house, cannot be overlooked homemade systems. For these purposes, galvanized drywall profiles without holes can be used. Their sizes may vary, so choosing the right option will not cause difficulties. A box is formed from the profiles, and scissors for metal will fit to cut off the excess.

To make and install such a drain, a lot of time is not required. This is done using a galvanized mounting tape with holes. It is fastened with bolts, rivets or screws. The message of the required level of inclination is achieved by bending the fasteners. Such a home-made device for draining water from the roof, although it does not have special decorative qualities, is quite durable and effective.

The drainage system should be selected at the design stage of the house. This will allow you to calculate all the nuances and correctly select the desired design. Its main role is to protect the foundation of the house from rain. Therefore, it is so important to correctly determine the material from which the drain is made. On average, the service life of a drainage system is from 5 to 100 years. But with improper installation, it can fail much faster. Consider how to properly install a roof drain with your own hands.

Drainage Design Tasks

  • First of all, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future roof and each of its slopes is calculated separately. Thanks to the data obtained, the required throughput of the roof drainage system, the diameter of the downpipes and the size of the gutter are determined.
  • The next step is to draw up a preliminary plan for the placement of drainage elements, which will determine the sequence of work, calculate the number of components and their approximate location. For greater convenience, this is done on a copy of the roof drawing.
  • It is also important to choose the right material from which the gutters for the roof are made. Due to the wide variety of options, making a choice is not so easy. To a greater extent, it depends on the general appearance of the house and the aesthetic ideas of its owner. In terms of service life, inexpensive plastic drains are practically not inferior to metal ones. But they are unlikely to look harmonious with real tiles or copper roofing.

Components of the drainage system

brackets

With their help, the gutter of the drainage system is attached to the roof. They are available in different shapes and different materials, but the color completely matches the entire drainage system.

Depending on the shape, they can be fixed in several ways:

  • the simplest and most commonly used method is to attach the bracket to the frontal roof board. Thus, the gutter is easily installed on an already finished roof. Basically, such brackets are completed with PVC systems. Thanks to highly developed vertical ribs, they are able to withstand heavy loads. In metal structures, brackets for this type of fastening are made short. In the absence of a frontal board, combined brackets are suitable. They have steel extensions with which they are attached directly to rafter leg. When access to the rafters is not possible, special metal crutches are mounted into the wall, and a gutter is attached to them with the help of studs.
  • With the second method of installation, the drain is mounted before laying the roofing material. The gutter is attached to the rafter leg. This method is rational for roofs with a large area, on which heavy roofing is used. For reliable fastening, the step between the rafters should not exceed 600 mm.

  • The third option is optimal for roofs where the distance between the rafters exceeds 600 mm. In most cases, these are roofs coated with metal tiles or ondulin. This method involves the use of combined brackets or long hooks that are attached to the first lath of the batten or to the bottom edge of the deck (if used shingles). Only compliance with the rules and procedures for installing hooks will ensure the reliability and durability of the structure.

Gutters

They also come in different forms. There is a round, semicircular, rectangular, oval or combined section. It is important that the gutters and hooks have the same shape and are from the same system.

A symmetrical gutter is considered universal, to which it will not be difficult to pick up components. This will simplify the work even at the stage of designing and calculating the required number of components of the system.

In addition, they are distinguished by the method of connection with the bracket. The fastest way to assemble will be a system with a simple snap. It is equipped with swivel latches, thanks to which it will be possible to easily dismantle a certain part of the gutter for repair or replacement.

When choosing them, linear fluctuations in their dimensions should also be taken into account (especially when choosing PVC structures). To compensate for them, couplings are produced, on the inside of which there are notches.

Tip: gutters made of PVC do not connect end-to-end - this can lead to cracks and breakage.

Despite the fact that the gutter made of metal has a much lower thermal expansion, during its installation a coupling is also used as a compensator.

To protect the gutters from icing, they are insulated or a system of electric heating cables is installed.

Seals

They are made from ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM) rubber. This is a modern analogue of the rubber mixture for the tightness of the joints. It has high elasticity, which allows you to restore its original shape even after prolonged use.

It is moisture resistant and unaffected environment. Most often, the seals are coated with silicone grease, which makes installation easier and additionally protects the rubber.

Drainage funnels

As the name implies, their function is to collect water flowing down the gutters and direct it into the drainpipes. IN PVC systems they are made as a separate piece. In addition, the funnels are divided into left, right and through passages. The left and right have a wall that acts as a gutter plug and are installed at the end, and the through passages are installed anywhere.

In a metal drainage system, funnels can be placed anywhere, but you will need to cut a round hole under it.

They look like a short bent pipe. They are used to connect drainpipes and funnels, as well as to drain water from the foundation. On average, each drainpipe will need three elbows: two at the top and one at the bottom.

Downspouts


They can be rectangular or round. This does not affect their functionality in any way and depends only on the design of the facade of the house and the entire drainage system. Their length varies from 1 to 4 meters. The main difference between PVC pipes and metal pipes is that they have the same diameter along the entire length. This means that couplings will be needed to attach them to each other, which will lead to additional costs.

Clamps

With their help, pipes are attached to the facade of the building. They are made of different materials and different shapes: plastic with two points of support, metal with one long hardware, snapped into place when around the pipe or with screwed elements.

Materials for the drainage system

The price of gutters for the roof depends primarily on the material from which they are made. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a closer look at each type.

Plastic

This modern material which is durable, lightweight and easy to handle. The dyes that are used in its production retain color saturation throughout the entire period of operation declared by the manufacturer, which is about 20-40 years. In addition, it has a low price.

Plastic drainage systems are made from several types of polymers:

  • PVC - polyvinyl chloride;
  • nPCV - unplasticized polyvinylchloride;
  • PE - polyethylene;
  • PP - polypropylene.

They are resistant to mechanical damage and UV radiation. They are not subject to corrosion and do not require additional care.

Steel

Galvanized steel is the most popular due to its low price and availability, but has an ugly appearance and is short-lived. Much more practical gutter systems made of galvanized steel with a polymer coating. They are stronger than plastic structures, and thanks to the coating they are durable. They are made from the same material as the metal tile. In most cases, they are either white or brown, other colors are painted only on individual order.

Copper

The most expensive, but durable and beautiful material. The service life can reach IV centuries. To prevent the formation of electrolytic fumes that destroy copper, all components must be made of the same material. Contact with titanium zinc or galvanized steel is especially dangerous for her. Over time, copper changes color to green, which does not affect its performance.

Aluminum

Lightweight and durable material that can be dyed any color. Its service life exceeds 50 years.

Zinc-titanium

This light alloy has a shiny surface. It is very durable and can be used in regions with extreme weather conditions. But in working with it, you will need to follow a number of rules. Zinc-titanium should not come into contact with PVC, vapor barrier membranes and roofing material. Work with it is prohibited at metal temperatures below +10°C. This is a very expensive material, so all work must be done by professionals.

Calculation of the required amount of materials

After the material is selected, the calculation of the quantity begins. necessary materials. Consultants in companies selling gutter systems or a roofing company that performs installation work can help you with this. But you can do it yourself.

First, the number of gutters is calculated. Their total length corresponds to the length of all roof slopes from which water will be collected. Knowing the length of the slopes, it is easy to calculate the required number of drain funnels. On average, one is installed for every 10 meters.

The number of drainpipes also depends on the number of funnels. Their length is equal to the distance from ground level to the roof.

The number of turns is determined by the feature of the facade and is calculated individually. You can always buy the missing items.

Clamps and brackets are very easy to calculate. You will need one bracket for every meter of gutter. The number of clamps depends on the height of the building, the main rule is that each individual section of the pipe must be fixed with at least one clamp.

Do-it-yourself installation of gutters on the roof

To install metal gutters for the roof, you will need the following tools:

  • hammer;
  • marking cord;
  • universal screwdriver;
  • tape measure from 3 meters long;
  • pipe pliers;
  • hook bender;
  • hacksaw for metal.

It is not recommended to cut metal pipes and gutters with a grinder. Since the polymer coating heats up during cutting, which will lead to damage to the elements of the drain.

Installation steps:

  • determination of the location of the brackets (gutter holders). The distance between them should be 40-50 cm;
  • marks are made on the brackets that determine the slope of the gutter, which is 5 mm per 1 m. It is worth noting that, according to the instructions, one downpipe can serve no more than 10 meters of the gutter;
  • brackets are bent according to the finished marks. The fastest way to do this is with a hook bender. Then two extreme brackets are installed, and a cord is pulled between them, along which all other holders are installed;
  • preparing the gutter for installation. From constituent parts a chute of the required length is assembled. It is possible that for this you will have to saw off the excess with a hacksaw. But before it is installed on the roof, the parts are not fastened together. For a drain funnel, you will need to cut a hole at a distance of 15 cm from the edge of the gutter in the shape of the letter V and with a diameter of 10 cm;
  • the outlet funnel for the downpipe is mounted. Its outer edge is brought under the curved drainage gutter and pressed tightly. Then the flange petals of the funnel are bent;

  • chute is installed. Alternately, all the components of the gutter are laid on ready-made brackets and attached. Further, a cornice strip is attached to the crate in such a way that its lower edge descends into the gutter. And the edge of the roofing waterproofing starts over the cornice strip. Due to this, all the condensate that may form in the under-roof space will enter the drainage system;

  • the connection of the gutters of the drain is overlapped on each other by 20-30 mm. Rubber seals provide additional tightness to the joints;
  • a protective mesh is installed on the spillway, which will protect it from debris. It is mounted in the hole of the outlet funnel in the gutter and is called a spider;
  • overflow limiter installation. They are needed in the places of the gutter, which are located under the fragments of roofs with adjoining;
  • fastening of connecting pipes. This design involves connecting two knees of the drainage system to each other. The length of the connecting pipe is calculated individually;
  • fastening of drainpipes. First, holders (clamps) are mounted to the wall of the house from below, above and at the pipe junctions. The distance between the drain elbow and the blind area is about 30 cm.

Installation of a drainage system with rectangular gutters

Their installation is a more laborious process. To connect the individual parts, you will need rivets (riveter) and sealant.

System differences:

  • the weir funnel is attached to the gutter with rivets and sealant. The hole is cut cross-shaped or round.
  • the plug, corners and gutters of the drain are also fastened with rivets and sealant.

Homemade gutter for the roof

For a small summer house, you can make budget weirs with your own hands. For example, by making them from galvanized drywall profiles without holes. They are different sizes so picking the right one is easy. The profiles are folded in a “box”, and the excess is cut off with metal scissors.

Not only manufacturing, but also fixing the drain to the roof will not take much time. Mounting galvanized tape 2 mm thick with holes is fastened under the roof overhang. It is fixed on bolts, rivets or screws. Then bending the fasteners, the required level of inclination is reached.

As a result of a home-made gutter device from the roof, an inconspicuous but durable structure is obtained.

Gutters for the roof photo

One of finishing stages building a house or other structure is the installation of a drainage system.

A prefabricated structure made of plastic or metal elements protects the building from atmospheric precipitation, prolongs the life of the foundation, walls, and roof. Knowing the design and installation rules of gutters will help you install the system yourself, and we will tell you how to do it.

The design of drainage structures has not changed much over the years - the main components are still gutters and risers in the form of vertically arranged pipes.

However, many elements have appeared that simplify the installation of parts to the surfaces of the roof, facade and among themselves.

The production of products is on a grand scale, and today you can purchase finished items for any, even the most complex systems, as long as material possibilities allow.

After the necessary calculations, they acquire the required number of parts, then fold them according to the principle of the designer and mount them according to the instructions.

Schematic representation of the elements of the drainage system. In addition to these elements, the mounting kit may contain clamps, couplings, seals, connecting elements of various configurations.

For a dacha - a small house with a gable roof - you can build a structure yourself using galvanized steel sheets.

But for a large cottage with a beautifully designed facade and roof, it is better to purchase a ready-made factory kit, which will be an additional decoration for the building.

Types of gutters according to the material of manufacture

Before buying and installing gutters, you need to decide on the material of manufacture, since the installation method also depends on this. All systems can be divided into two large groups: plastic and metal.

Polymer Element Sets

Polymer products are produced on the basis of vinyl with the addition of plasticizers, stabilizers and other components that increase the strength and wear resistance of the elements. Plastic systems last from 10 to 25 years.

Step-by-step instructions for installing gutters

Preparation and installation work can be divided into three large stages:

  • design- drawing up a diagram, selection of components, calculations;
  • assembly of the water intake part of the system– mostly horizontal elements;
  • riser installation guiding rainfall in .

Assembly and installation are carried out from top to bottom, that is, the first elements are installed on the roof and under the roof, then on the facade towards the foundation and blind area. All actions must be performed taking into account the characteristics of the system and the material from which the individual elements are made.

As a sample for installation, we will take a plastic drainage system - the most suitable for independent work.

Stage #1 - design and calculations

The nuances of the project directly depend on the type, shape and size of the roof, so you should start by measuring the roof surfaces.

The length of the gutters is selected relative to the length of the slopes, the width and location - based on their area.

In order for precipitation to be fully discharged, the following points should be clarified:

  • Number of gutters. At gable roof there are two of them, for a four-slope one - four, connected in an inextricable circuit for a more efficient spillway device. If there are more slopes, then a gutter is located under each.
  • Number of risers. Traditionally, drainpipes are located at the corners of the task - there can be 2.3 or 4 of them. But if the length of the gutter is more than 12 m, then an additional compensating funnel with a pipe is installed in the center.
  • bracket type. Usually two types are used: long ones are mounted on the crate, even before the finishing roofing, and short ones are fixed on the frontal board - they can be installed at any time, including after construction is completed.
  • Slope of horizontal elements. For unhindered draining, the gutters are placed at a slope of 2-4 mm per linear meter by adjusting the brackets - according to the manufacturer's recommendation. A drainage funnel is installed at the bottom.

It largely depends on the location of the risers whether the system can cope with the removal of liquid from the roof. Traditionally, they are installed in the corners, but other options are also possible - with placement in the center, in niches.

In order to properly install funnels and expansion joints, it is necessary to take into account factors such as the number and length of slopes, the angle of inclination, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof

Do not forget about the aesthetic side and the comfort of operation - drainpipes should not protrude far ahead of the facade, go out onto footpaths or used adjacent territory.

Calculations are made individually, universal offers do not exist.

However, there are rules that help to build the system:

  • the length of the gutters is calculated according to the length of the cornices, adding 2.5 mm per linear expansion for every 12 m;
  • connecting elements for gutters are selected based on the standard length of one element - if you purchase 4-meter gutters for a 12-meter cornice, you will need 2 connectors;
  • the number of funnels is determined as follows: one per gutter up to 12 m, for longer ones - one more funnel or compensator;
  • the number of brackets depends on the total length of the gutters, taking into account the fact that the installation is carried out at intervals of 0.5-0.6 m; do not forget about additional ones - for funnels;
  • the length of the drainpipes is determined by the height of the walls, minus the distance from the gutters to the eaves and from the outlet to the ground surface;
  • the number of brackets is also dictated by the height of the building: two are mounted near the outlet and funnel, the rest - with an interval of 1.2-1.5 from them.

Another couple of important dimensions that must be taken into account are the width of the gutters and the diameter of the downpipes.

Due to the protruding cornices, the downpipes have a curved shape. To achieve it, knees are used, which are installed below the eaves and directed towards the facade.

If the slope area does not exceed 80 m², usually no calculations are made, but risers with a diameter of 100 mm are taken as a basis.

Stage # 2 - installation of water intake elements

To install the hook-shaped brackets on which the gutters are usually located, you can remove the outermost row of tiles or other roofing - so that the crate opens.

If this option is not possible, instead of long brackets, short hooks are fixed to front side cornice sheathing.

The holders are fixed in such a way that, as a result of installation, the gutter protrudes beyond the edge of the roofing by at least 2 cm, maximum by 2/3 of its width.

The optimal location of the gutters should prevent the overflow of atmospheric effluents, as well as the accumulation of snow.

Brackets are mounted in the following order:

  • preliminary fitting and choice of length/place of installation;
  • determination of the angle of inclination towards the catchment funnel;
  • holder bending;
  • installation of extreme brackets;
  • installation of the remaining elements on a pre-tensioned cord.

After mounting the brackets, it is necessary to prepare and install the funnel.

To do this, in the right place, we attach it to the gutter, outline the contour, then remove and drill a hole with a drill with a suitable crown. We clean the edges and connect the funnel with the hole.

For the tightness of the connection, we coat the zone with a width of 0.5-0.7 cm with glue and let it dry. Some types of funnels are equipped with latches for a more secure fit, others are simply superimposed from the outside

Installation of the gutter begins with an element with a funnel already fixed. Then the next one joins it, and so on to the highest point. The gutter elements are joined using connectors.

Despite the tight fit and latches at the edges, the connecting elements and the edges of the gutters are also smeared with glue before contact. Plugs are also placed on the same glue at extreme points that do not end in funnels

Short brackets are mounted differently.

Short holders are fixed directly on the frontal board. The fastener has a movable design that allows you to adjust the angle of inclination if necessary

If the brackets are installed correctly, the installation of water inlets does not take much time. As a result, the gutter should be placed with a small ledge behind the eaves, at an angle towards the funnel.

Stage # 3 - installation of downpipes

The assembly of the riser begins from the top - the transition from the funnel to the vertical pipe. If the cornice protrudes by less than 0.25 m, then the transition element is assembled from a pair of elbows.

Features of installation of knees: the upper element is not glued to the funnel, in order to preserve the possibility of dismantling, a bracket is mounted under the socket connectors

Starting from the funnel and the articulation of the knees, we continue the assembly downwards. Between two adjacent vertical elements connected by a coupling, there must be a gap of at least 20 mm in width - to compensate for linear expansion.

Every 1.2-1.5 m we install clamps for attaching the drain to the wall of the building. Anchor bolts or other fasteners are included with clamps

To prevent abrasion of the drain pipe and holders, the clamps modern systems With inside equipped with a dense rubber seal.