Rules for mounting plastic windows on anchor plates. How to properly install a plastic window How to fix a plastic frame

Today I will tell you about how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door in one day with my own hands. This job does not require special skills or expensive equipment. But, of course, there are many nuances that you should definitely pay attention to. And of course there are a few secrets on how to save money when ordering.

I used windows with four-chamber windows that were optimal in terms of thermal performance. window profile and double-glazed windows, as well as a reinforced front door. By the way, it was the door that accounted for almost half of the cost of the order. And the total costs amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price - at the end of the article.

Let's get started!

2. We have a freshly built aerated concrete house in which 8 windows and one front door need to be installed. First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings. As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed from below - there will be a window sill there). For the quarters I used the standard aerated concrete blocks 5 cm thick, which were installed like all masonry on mounting foam. The depth of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness. It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings under typical dimensions windows - the technology of their production is automated and there is no difference in cost between a standard size or a custom-made window. The final dimensions of the window are considered taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with mounting foam. From the bottom on all windows from the factory there is a stand profile 3 centimeters high, which is needed for convenient installation of the window sill. Plus, under the delivery profile, there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for polyurethane foam. In total, roughly speaking from internal dimensions the opening must be subtracted 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically. You should not get carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because. it will be extremely inconvenient to fill in mounting foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.

3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of blind non-opening windows. In the case of a one-story country house, there is no problem to go outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation, you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than a tilt-and-turn mechanism, but at the same time, its width should be much greater than its height, or rather, its height must not exceed 50 cm). The advantage of the blind section is also that you do not lose the useful area of glazing. In my case, there are 5 blind windows 60x60 cm in size, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters. The above price includes only windows and door (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to buy anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, PSUL sealing tape, polyurethane foam, window sills and ebbs for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles.

4. We will need: a screwdriver with a drill for concrete, mounting foam with a gun, PSUL tape, mounting plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws. Also not included in the frame. bubble level. Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that it is impossible to save on a measuring tool.

5. There are two ways to fix the window frame: through fixing with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates. The first method requires more time and skills. In particular, you will need to carefully pull the double-glazed window out of the frame, and then install it in place. The glazing beads holding it are usually fixed very tightly and in order not to scratch the edges, a special spatula and patience will be required. Plus, if we are talking about installation in two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed double-glazed window cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed. In addition, through fastening requires precise fixation during drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Much easier installation is carried out on mounting plates. Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters. The plate is installed by turning in the groove of the frame and fixed with a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill metal carcass inside the frame).

6. After that, PSUL tape is glued on the outside of the frame on all sides except for the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape. It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters. The purpose of the tape is to protect the mounting foam from ultraviolet radiation and, consequently, destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because. the tape expands very slowly in the cold.

7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on the outside of the frame, it is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge, especially if you get deep quarters. This should be done so that when pouring the mounting foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.

8. Now let's move on to the window opening. Its geometric dimensions are ideal, and the base ideally coincides with the level of the horizon. This happens by itself during the construction of aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the rest in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use a stand profile. As a support for the frame on the base of the opening, I use a piece of laminate with a thickness of 7 mm.

9. We apply the window and mark the place for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete. It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to score them with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After that, we bait the screws through the mounting plates.

10. Our next task is to set the window vertically. In the case of small windows, this will not be difficult, because. there will be no diagonal skew of the window and it is enough to measure at any point of the frame. After that, we tighten the screws on the mounting plates and take out the piece of laminate at the base. Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be kept in the opening solely on the mounting plates. Mounting foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.

11. You will have to tinker with large windows. The mass of each is more than 80 kilograms and it will not be easy to lift it into the opening alone. I built a ladder from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters up. I used 9 mounting plates for each window. 3 on each side except the bottom. Here you need to carefully monitor the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners. On large windows at the bottom there was a support profile in which the window sill will be installed. Directly under the support profile, I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.

12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because. an open sash will add load to the frame. On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And a very serious mistake that most people make - protective film must be removed from the frame immediately after installation. Even if you put the windows at the beginning of the repair, the film must be removed immediately. If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, in addition, the plastic will burn out unevenly (relevant for the outside of the frame).

13. Go to front door. This is a reinforced door on 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than outward opening. But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outward. When installing door frame the most important thing is to ensure a uniform fit around the perimeter. To fix the door, I used 10 anchor plates. Special attention it is worth paying attention to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes. For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door must be fully functional when held only by anchor plates. It should not warp when opened and should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.

14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory. it allows you to adjust the amount of foam output. With foam, there are nuances that you definitely need to know. Firstly, the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and must be covered from sunlight. On the outside of the window, there is a PSUL tape for this, on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it with paint. As for the application of foam, it absolutely cannot be cut. The shell that formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly in the volume so that the excess does not protrude. It is important not to overdo it with the depth of the gun nozzle, because. do not forget that on the outside we have a PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam. Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, it is worth visually checking its condition and, if necessary, gently tamping (until it has frozen, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is necessary to use a special winter foam.

15. Next, we install the fittings and check how the windows open. If the window does not open well or jams, this is a sign that errors were made during the installation of the window. Most likely not in all corners the frame is strictly vertical. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.

16. Done! Windows and doors must be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we are moving on to the final stage.

17. We take plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep. In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm each and one 70 cm long. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess with a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile. It should be borne in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters, this is important when choosing the depth. Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter. We install the window sill either strictly horizontally, or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.

18. We close the edges with special plates, which should be glued to superglue. As a support when setting the level, you can use a trim from the window sill itself or a wooden block. After that, we load the window sill from above so that it does not lift it with mounting foam. And fill the bottom of the entire plane of the base with foam. Just as with window frames, foam expansion should be controlled and should not be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.

19. The final chord is the installation of ebbs. Cut to length, fix to window frame using self-tapping screws (pre-lubricating the joint silicone sealant), fill the base with mounting foam and load it.

20. Done! Do not forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated in installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone. Having done this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on the installation.

And now the most interesting. The Chertanovsky office of Okna Growth decided that the discount on windows should be not only for me, but for all readers of my blog. Therefore, we made an exclusive promotion for ordering plastic windows. The minimum discount of 33% is relevant for everyone who is ready to independently measure and install plastic windows.

All details are here -

When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many people wonder how difficult it is to install them yourself. The answer is a job of medium complexity. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for someone with no experience. Employees of firms doing this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation of plastic windows with their own hands by the owner of the premises cannot be compared with the hasty work of "professionals". They simplify the process indecently, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years now and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky enough to find really masters, then you can entrust the installation to them. If not - better spend the weekend and install yourself.

Construction of plastic windows

To properly understand the installation process, you need to have an idea about the design of windows. Let's start with materials and names. Plastic windows are made of polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.

The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made from a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.

In the middle of the structure, in the largest chamber, an insert is visible of blue color. This is a reinforcing element of increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows, this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.

There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. The best choice if you need normal windows is the standard class. In the economy class, the partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment of installation. Premium comes at a high price with options that are essentially unnecessary.

If you want to have best profile for plastic windows, take the standard class of any factory. There is no particular difference between the products of different companies. They have been standardized for a long time and all the stories of managers about the benefits are fairy tales. If they are manufactured on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have long been standardized.

Window profiles are standard White color, but can also be brown - the color of any tree, and even pink - on request. Colored profile windows are more expensive than similar white ones.

window structure

To understand what is at stake in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.

It consists of:

Frames. This is the base of the window.
If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is in two parts, there is one impost, If out of three - two, etc.
The opening part of the window is called the sash, the fixed part is called the capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically fastened together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses, providing tightness. There are double-glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to manufacturers, reduces heat loss through windows. There are also double-glazed windows, between the glasses of which an inert gas is pumped. It also reduces heat loss.
Double-glazed windows are pressed against the frame with a cap - a thin plastic bar. The tightness of the connection is ensured by a rubber seal (usually black).
Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and locking. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro-ventilation.
To ensure tightness, rubber seals are installed on all parts - the frame, impost and sashes.

At the bottom on the outer side of the frame (the one that faces the street) there are drainage holes that are closed with special caps. Through them, the condensate that forms inside due to the temperature difference in the street and in the room is discharged to the street.

Another window has a low tide - a board on the outside that drains precipitation and a window sill inside. Lateral and upper parts from the side of the street and the room. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.

How to measure a plastic window

When ordering windows, you will need six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and slope. In order to measure everything correctly, it is necessary to determine whether you have made a window opening with a quarter or without.

You look at the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, an opening with a quarter. In this case, measurements are taken at the narrowest point: openings rarely have ideal geometry, so you will have to measure at several points. Find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. Pass the height as it is.

If the opening is even, the calculation is different. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width, 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides for mounting foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since all the same 1.5 cm are needed from above, and 3.5 cm from the bottom will go to install the window sill.

The length of the window sill and the ebb is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill are “drowned” a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The width of the ebbs is standard, so the nearest larger one is selected. On window sills, the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Some people like wide ones so that they can put something, someone prefers flush with the wall. So there are no rules here.

Even when ordering, you will need to specify how many and what parts will be in your window: whether or not there is a capercaillie, where it is located, how many sashes, which side they are on, how they should open. You will need to specify the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).

Preparation

If you change windows, do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with the dismantling of the old one. Problems usually do not arise: to break not to build. After dismantling, it is necessary to revise the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - with a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, it is necessary to remove all construction debris. Ideally, sweep everything up to the dust, otherwise the foam will not “grab” with the wall during installation.

If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them up. cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the it will be easier installation. With loose wall material, they can be treated with binders: penetrating adhesive primers.

How to install correctly: choosing an installation method

There are two different methods: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame, through which an anchor is driven into the wall. This method is more difficult, but the mount is more reliable.

This is an anchor bolt. They are placed three pieces on each side.

When installed without unpacking, metal plates are attached to the frame from the outside, and then they are attached to the walls. This, of course, is faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: with significant wind loads, the frame will warp or it will sag.

If you really don’t want to disassemble the window, you can also mount it on a plate, but use not narrow and thin ones, but thick and wide ones, which are still often used when installing the truss system.

In principle, small windows mounted on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in a region with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is located in a high-rise building on a high floor, then installation with unpacking is necessary.

Watch an emotional and intelligible video below, which explains why it is better to use an anchor.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step by step instructions

Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, the bearing capacity of which is small and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using a “layered” technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window should be in a soft layer, then it will need to be fixed with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. the house is desirable on the anchor.

Installation with unpacking

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening, make sure they are compatible. After that, you can get to work. The process begins with the disassembly (unpacking) of the PVC window. Here are the steps:

1. 1. 1. Removing the window sash:
      - Close the window (handle turned down).
      - Remove the plastic covers on both hinges. They pry off with a screwdriver.
      - There is a pin on the top loop that provides a movable connection. It is in the center and protrudes a little. They press on it until it drowns (you can take a metal plate, rest it on the pin and lightly hit the plate). The pin will pop out from the bottom. Now you can grab it with side cutters or pliers and, pulling it down, pull it out.
      - Holding the sash at the top, open the lock. To do this, put the handle in a horizontal position. Having tilted the upper part slightly towards you, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.
      The entire sash has been removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.
    2. On the capercaillie, remove the double-glazed window. It is held on by pegs. They need to be removed, then the double-glazed window itself will be removed without problems. Remove the pins like this:
      - Something narrow and durable is inserted into the gap between the bead and the frame. If there is no special tool, it is best to use a small spatula. Disassembly begins with one of the long sides.
      - The spatula is carefully driven into the slot with a corner and gradually move the glazing bead away from the frame.
      - Without removing the tool, they move along a little, again pushing the bead aside.
      - So they go along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated, it is simply removed.
      - With the short side, everything is simpler: the freed edge is hooked and, by turning the spatula, is removed from the groove. Grasp the freed edge with your hand and pull up.
      Now you can try to remove the double-glazed window. Just be careful, it's heavy. If it doesn't work, remove one more of the glazing beads. Just make sure that the window is tilted so that the double-glazed window does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the double-glazed window yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.
  1. The freed frame along the outer perimeter is pasted over with a special self-adhesive tape. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With her, the window does not stand out so much.
  2. Remove the protective tape with the campaign logo. If you leave it, it will fuse too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
  3. The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. For its exposure, mounting wedges are used. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. Putting them on the window is set strictly according to the level in three planes. Pre-fix the position of the window. That's what mounting plates can be used for.
  4. Take a drill and a drill that matches the size of the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm recede from the upper edge. This is the first hole. The bottom one is about the same distance from the bottom corner. Between them in standard window install another anchor: the maximum distance between the two fasteners should not exceed 700 mm.
  5. Having made a hole, they will check whether the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then they hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You can not drag: the profile should not bend. Repeat this operation required amount once.
  6. Install drains outside. To do this, first, a vapor-permeable waterproofing (it is self-adhesive) is glued onto the outer part of the frame. Small strobes are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the tides are then inserted.
  7. A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then an olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is brought under the ledge of the frame and there it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.
  8. The tide also foams along the lower edge.
  9. Next, foam the opening. When installing plastic windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better polymerization of the foam.
  10. A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the frame contour - it is also recommended by GOST.
  11. Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps by 2/3 of the volume. If the gap size is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprinkled with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is filled by 2/3.
    Foaming PVC windows during do-it-yourself installation can be carried out in several stages - it depends on the size of the gap
  12. Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using the tape, the slopes will need to be made plastic: plaster and mortar do not “stick” to it.
  13. Assemble all parts of the window. Only Finishing work, but they are not a hindrance.
  14. A vapor barrier tape is also installed under the window sill in the lower part (also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support pads made of hardwood treated with impregnations. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5 °).

Watch the video on how to properly install a window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.

The slopes are installed or sealed last. There is another video on this.

Installation without unpacking

The main subtleties are described above, so this chapter is small. Installation for this option begins with the installation of mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable thick metal.

They are installed at the same distance as the anchor: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Then do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows with mounting plates is identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is set to the level in the opening. Only they fix not the frame, but the plates and not on the anchor, but on the dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert the dowel, putting the plate in place, twist the dowel. Further, all actions are identical.

Now it’s clear why installers prefer them: it takes a decent amount of work with disassembly, anchoring, etc.: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tightly. No worse than anchors. For example, such as in the video.

Helpful information

When specialists are engaged in the installation of a plastic window, it seems that there are no difficulties, everything happens quickly and accurately. Fitters work like a finely tuned clock mechanism, where every detail falls exactly in the right place. However, not everything is so simple and you need to know exactly what and how to fix so that the window does not cause problems. It is important to choose fasteners for correct installation, and also, directly installation of a specific design.

Basic mounting elements

The variety of fasteners can be a stumbling block for the uninformed, and installers know exactly what parts may be needed during installation. The TBM-Market store offers a wide selection of fasteners for windows, because installation fasteners, if properly installed, will significantly increase the life of the structure.

Types of fasteners:

dowels or screws for concrete;
frame anchors different type(anchor bolts);
dowels and anchor plates;
self-tapping screws of different diameters, including nipples for them;
various screws and more.

Installers install the window, select the right mount that suits the type of walls in your apartment. A good quality fastener that is not intended for a specific structural material will give a poor result, and the term reliable operation will be shorter.

Through installation of plastic windows:

Fixings for concrete walls (pins)

Most installers prefer to use dowels or screws for concrete (turboscrews), since the dowel is installed quickly, holds the weight of the double-glazed window securely, and is firmly fixed in the material. When working, a hole is pre-drilled into which a screw with a threaded notch is screwed without a dowel, which ensures the strength of the fastener.

Nagels have standard sizes for window openings - 7.5 by 152 (132), if it is necessary to replace glass with light-protective, fire-resistant, etc., the structure is easy to dismantle.

Minus fastening: dowels cannot be used when installing plastic windows in heterogeneous walls that have a layer of insulation.

Fastenings on frame anchors

As standard, the anchor has three components: a screw, a sleeve and a conical nut; it requires drilling a hole for installation in a profile and in a wall. The sleeve is at the same time an assisting element for screwing in the screw, an additional fixing link that ensures the fixation of the screw in the hole. The hidden head of the anchor (dowel) can be recessed into the hole or closed with a special overlay.

Standard anchors for concrete (solid bricks) have a length of at least 60 mm, for porous blocks or slotted bricks - at least 80 mm.

It is more problematic to dismantle a plastic window on anchors than on screws, so you need to be especially careful during installation. The disadvantage of anchor dowels is that they cannot be used for multilayer walls, especially when there is an insulating layer.

Non-through mounting

This type of fastening assumes that the integrity of the frame structure will not be compromised (no holes are drilled). For panel-type houses with walls of a multilayer structure, for glazing loggias, anchor plates are used, which are fastened in window opening, and mounting foam. The plate is attached with the end part to the frame using self-tapping screws, and it is attached to the wall with dowels (length not more than 40 mm).

If you are planning to replace or put in new windows, you need to look into the installation process. It all depends on how you will install the windows: either with your own hands or by attracting a third-party company. To make the dismantling and installation of the structure, it takes approximately 4 hours if you do not have experience in this matter. For a company employee who does this often, such work will take no time. more than an hour. But installing tilt-and-turn windows on your own requires building skills.

Complete set of window system

Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to understand the nuances and details. First you need to know all the names of parts and materials. The main bearing part is the frame. In the version of plastic windows, its production is carried out from a plastic profile, which can be single-chamber, two-chamber, etc. A special insert is placed in the center of the structure to ensure rigidity. IN plastic systems this insert is made of plastic, metal is used in metal-plastic ones.

The profile system is assembled from 2 or more chambers

In addition, the profile is divided into classes: premium, standard and economy. All profiles manufactured at the factory are subject to certain standards. If you want to make a choice in favor of good tilt-and-turn windows, take the standard class. By color, white windows are most common, but other colors can be used: wood effect, brown. Products from a color profile will be more expensive than white.

Components of a plastic window

The main element of the window unit is the frame

The design of the plastic window includes the following details:

frame - the main structural part;
if you have big window, most often it is separated by a vertical partition, there may be several - it all depends on the choice of design;
the part that is motionless is called deaf, and the one that opens is called the sash;
double-glazed windows can be with different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using an inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - the choice is great;
in order for the glasses to hold securely, they are pressed with a glazing bead, which is a thin plastic bar. For tightness, a rubber seal is used, most often black;
fittings are always used - this is a special set of tilt-and-turn mechanisms that help open and close the doors and provide various functionality;
in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
on the inside of the frame, ventilated holes are made for drainage, which are covered with caps. The moisture generated by the drop temperature regime on the street and inside the room, gets out through them;
another part of the design is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.

Is it possible to install the window yourself

There is an opinion that installing windows in a house or apartment is a rather complicated procedure. It must be said that this is not so. What do you need to know when installing? To perform these works, you do not need special professional tools and equipment, vast experience. The procedure includes two main points:

dismantling of the old window block;
installing a new window.

Dismantling the old window takes an average of 1.5 hours

If we talk about the time required to complete the work, then the first stage will take about an hour and a half. Do-it-yourself window installation will take less than three hours. I must say that if, nevertheless, you decide to opt for the services of specialists, then you should require certain guarantees from them.

If you have installed tilt and turn windows yourself, this will void your warranty. In this case, it is necessary to purchase designs directly from the manufacturer, who has been working on the market for a long time, has good feedback from clients. If you decide to buy single-chamber or double-chamber windows in the winter, you can always count on a significant discount.

When a window is purchased from a company that carries out and installation work, then the customer has a guarantee for fittings of about 5 years. At self installation you can get a guarantee directly from the manufacturer, that is, at the place of purchase.

In order to install windows in brick house, cinder block, gas block or apartment, you first need to order a swing-out or blind design from the manufacturer, and this requires accurate measurements.

Step-by-step instructions for correct measurement

When you place an order, you will be required to specify the following dimensions: the width and height of the structure, the width and length of the slope and window sill.

Before ordering a window, it is necessary to correctly measure the design

Before you start measuring, be sure to important point- what kind of opening do you have: with or without a quarter. Look carefully at the window opening: if the outer part is narrower, then you have a quarter opening in front of you. The measurement is carried out as follows: it is necessary to measure the narrowest part, it will be necessary to measure in several places, find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. The height is indicated as it is. If your opening is even, then the measurements are done like this: after measuring the width, 3 cm is subtracted; having measured the height, minus 5 cm. Read the detailed article about.

Before measurements, you need to determine the type of window: with or without a quarter

To determine the dimensions of the window sill, you need to add about 10 cm to the width of the opening inside the window. For the ebb, the same is done, only along the outer part of the window. Everyone chooses the width for the window sill for themselves: it is better if it protrudes a little beyond the battery.

In addition, when placing an order, you need to decide which constituent parts your design will be completed: what options for two-, three- or single-leaf windows do you need, how they will open, on which side the capercaillie is located. Do not forget to decide on the type of fittings (handles, locks, ventilation mechanisms).

If you order several designs at the same time, then the width of all openings may be different, but the height must be the same, you must choose the smallest size. Please note that window openings can be located at different distances from the floor.. In apartments, from the floor to the window is about 80 cm, while on the balcony the windows can be from the floor. Accommodation in a private house can generally be any at the discretion of the owners.

Features of measurements for glazing balconies

To determine the width of the glass structure, it is necessary to measure in length that part of the balcony on which the balcony window will be installed, minus 7 cm from each side. This distance is required for mounting corner profile, to which the structures of the side elements of the balcony are attached. The height is calculated as the distance from the support to the roof on the balcony or loggia, while subtracting a tolerance of 3 cm for the gap.

How to take measurements of windows in a country house

To correctly measure the dimensions of the structure in a private house, knock out part of the slopes on both sides. Very often it turns out that the window opening is much larger than the window that is installed in it. This means that during the dismantling of the structure, a part of the materials that filled the space will be simultaneously removed.

Preparing to install a window structure

After you take out the old window, you will need to inspect the resulting opening, remove all parts that can fall off or collapse, if there are protruding elements, they should be knocked down. Then clean the opening from construction debris and dust. If there are large recesses, it is better to cover them with cement. You can also treat everything with soil.

Base needs to be cleaned prior to installation.

Having finished working with the opening, you need to prepare a PVC window, the installation of which is to be. To do this, it is necessary to remove the window sashes, if it is deaf - double-glazed windows. If your frame has small dimensions, then you can install it without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes. The outer part of the frame should be freed from the film that protects it.

Installation Technology Guide

The finished plastic window is brought into the opening, placed on the support blocks and aligned horizontally. After that, using a level, the window is set vertically and fixed in this position with spacer blocks.

Installation of both blind windows and opening sashes is the same. There are two options for installing windows: with and without a structure. When applying the first option, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchor bolts are driven into the wall. This method is more complex and more reliable.

When installing a window by unpacking, holes are drilled in the frame and wall, where anchors are then driven in

Places for anchoring anchors and support blocks

If the installation is carried out without opening the frame, the window is fixed using special ones that are attached to the profile and then to the wall. This option is faster. However, it must be borne in mind that with significant wind loads, the frame structure may warp or it may sag. If you decide to mount on a plate, you should choose thick, wide options. Please note that if the region in which you live is characterized by a strong wind load or windows are to be installed at a height, then it is worth using the option of unbaking the frame.

Mounting on anchor plates

There are nuances for placing a window in an opening. If the walls are made of foam blocks, bricks, cinder blocks, gas silicate or concrete, then the frame is placed in a depth of 2/3 of the internal thickness of the opening. If the walls are insulated with foam, then the fastening must be done to the insulation layer. When insulating and facing with bricks, a window is installed in the insulation zone.

It is very important to choose the correct installation depth

The installation sequence must be followed:

inserting the frame, expose it to the level, using support and spacer blocks;
further attached to the wall;
after installing the structure, it is necessary to assemble the window;
then you need to check the normal operation of the shutters and all mechanisms, for this, open and close the window;
after everything is checked, the sashes must be tightly closed and the gap around the structure must be sealed. For this, apply.

However, it must be remembered that in direct contact with the sun's rays and the external environment, the material loses its properties and collapses. To protect it, you need to create it, it can be a special film that needs to be glued on the outside and inside of the window. After the foam has dried, it is necessary to finish the slopes on both sides (external, internal) of the structure. You can open the window a day after blowing the gap with foam.

To be fulfilled correct installation both on windows and follow the simple rules:

we mount the ebb from the outside into a special slot in the frame or fasten it to it with self-tapping screws;
the window sill is installed as follows: it is necessary to cut it from the edges so that it fits in the width of the window opening and rests against the end of the support profile;
the level is leveled with special pads, after which the space under the window sill is blown with foam or filled with mortar.

According to the principle of the description above, windows are installed on a balcony or on a loggia, in brick or concrete walls. However, keep in mind that the entire weight window construction will carry the parapet, so you need to strengthen it.

Mistakes you can make when installing windows

There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing the structure so that it has long term usage:

it is impossible to install the window with glazing beads outward, as this reduces the burglary resistance of the structure, since the glazing bead can be easily pulled out and the double-glazed window removed;
you need to carefully consider the alignment of structures to the level during the installation of the window, otherwise opening and closing the sashes will be difficult;
be sure to protect the mounting foam from direct sunlight in order to avoid its destruction;
the choice of fixing the frame structure only with mounting foam will be wrong: it is imperative to mount it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.

By following all the installation rules, you can successfully mount the window structure yourself, and if you turn to professionals for services, you can control their work at any stage.

The advantages of installing plastic windows are not only operational characteristics, but also ease of installation. An uncomplicated process, facilitated by the presence of fasteners and additional parts in the factory, House master he will be able to master and carry out on his own. There are a number of nuances in it that dictate scrupulous implementation of building regulations to an independent installer. To call on assistants will need patience, accuracy and at least one person. Then the installation of plastic windows with your own hands will be performed flawlessly and practically free of charge.

Video tutorial for independent builders

Preliminary measurements and calculations

Before buying a window, it is traditional to measure the opening, taking into account whether it is with or without a quarter. Openings with a quarter - a characteristic detail of a foam concrete structure, significantly reducing heat loss. In an opening without a quarter, you need to order a window, the length of which will be 5 cm less than the equivalent parameter of the opening. From the width value, you need to subtract 3 cm. Gaps along the contour of 1.5 cm are needed for foaming, an additional 3.5 cm from the bottom are needed for the window sill. GOSTs recommend leaving 2.0 cm around the perimeter.

To arrange an opening with a quarter, measurements are taken at the narrowest point. Windows are ordered by adding 3 cm to the width, the length value is not changed.

Windows are usually located not in the middle of the opening, but retreating from the outer plane 1/3 deep. But those who want to install a plastic window with their own hands may have options with an offset to either side. This circumstance must be taken into account when ordering window sills and external ebbs. To the width indicators of both elements calculated according to the location of the window, 5 cm must be added.

The location of the battery also affects the calculation of the width of the sill. It should only half cover the radiator. Plus 2 cm for the establishment under the base of the window. The minimum margin for length is 8 cm, but it is better not to skimp and add 15 cm to cut this part beautifully.

Note. Plastic side plugs are attached to the window sills and ebbs. Don't give up on them.

Frame fastening methods

The installation technology does not depend on the number of internal chambers in the metal-plastic profile, nor on the number of chambers in double-glazed windows. It depends on the material from which the walls of the building are built, and on the dimensions of the window. Based on the above prerequisites, the method and attachment devices are selected.

You can fix the plastic window structure:

mounting anchors or dowels inserted into the walls through through holes drilled in the profile;
special toothed plates that are pressed into the profile, they do not penetrate into the wall, but are installed by surprise and fastened with screws.

The first method is recognized as the most reliable. It is mainly used for mounting large and heavy window systems. When fastened through, the window will firmly resist numerous impact loads that occur, for example, when operating windows with sashes that open in two different positions. In addition, the anchors passing through the frame will allow you to more accurately adjust the verticals and horizontals of the mounted structure.

However, those who want to know how to install plastic windows small dimensions with blind double-glazed windows, the method of fixing with anchor plates should be of interest. Appearance they will not spoil the windows, since then they will be hidden under the slopes.

Advice. For installation of anchor plates in concrete or brick opening it is desirable to make small recesses so that you do not have to apply an extra leveling layer before installing the internal slopes.

Often builders combine both methods. The anchors are buried in the walls through the side elements of the frame and through the bottom profile (window base), and the top is fixed only with plates. If the installation of plastic windows with your own hands is done in wooden bath, anchor plates are rarely used, they can become loose. Instead of anchors, galvanized self-tapping screws are sometimes used.

Specifics of installation in a wooden structure

To a large extent, the installation process is influenced by the type of building material. If for walls made of foam concrete, hollow or solid bricks, the differences are only in the size of the anchors, then there is a special approach to openings in log cabins and in timber walls. You need to take into account not only how, but also when it is better to install plastic windows in wooden openings, and even how to do it.

Equip with plastic windows wooden structure can only be done in a year, preferably two years after the completion of construction. This significant break is necessary due to post-construction shrinkage. The smallest period of shrinkage and its size are for buildings made of glued laminated timber.
Installation is not carried out directly in the opening. You can insert a window only in wooden box protecting the window structure from deformation. There should be no damage, defects and rot on the window unit. Before starting work, it must be treated with an antiseptic.
Shrinkage, however, is no longer so intense, and will occur after the installation of windows and finishes. Taking into account what, a gap of 3-7 cm is left between the upper plane of the opening and the box. The size of the gap depends on the humidity and the category of materials used in construction. The gap after the installation of the window is filled with jute insulation and closed with platbands on both sides.

In building codes there are no exact recommendations about the material for ebbs and window sills in wooden houses. The ebbs usually use standard ones attached to the window structure. The window sill can be both polymeric and wooden. It is not forbidden for the bottom profile to rest directly on wooden window sill. That is, before installation, it may already be.

There is a nuance that is not specified in the regulations, but recommended experienced builders those who figure out how to properly insert plastic windows. Wood that is permeable to vapor will help reduce technical qualities mounting foam. In order for the foam “blown out” along the perimeter not to be moistened, window block along the line of its application, it is desirable to equip it with a foiled polyethylene foam tape.

Plastic window installation standards

A distinctive feature of the technology is the use of mounting foam, which stiffens the frame-opening connection. The layer obtained as a result of polymerization of the foam simultaneously performs the function of insulation and additional fastening. In order for the specified element to retain the necessary specifications the foamed layer is surrounded by insulating layers.

When it is better to insert a plastic window, the owner decides. Often recommended winter montage due to the immediate manifestation of all faults. When choosing a mounting foam, it is imperative to take into account at what values of atmospheric temperature the composition will harden better. It is advised to prefer professional foam, and to work with negative thermometer readings, you need to buy a specialized nozzle.

How to perform foaming is described in detail by the manufacturer in the instruction attached to the product. Foaming usually begins from the bottom, moving upward in a circular motion. To eliminate the overspending of expensive material, the foam is blown in several steps in segments of 25-30 cm.

Advice. In order to shift the dew point, foaming is performed with unequal density. The outward facing foam layer is recommended to be made less dense than the inner one. Along the perimeter, the foam must be blown evenly, without voids and gaps.

Window opening preparation

There should be no dust, no debris, no paint residues in the opening - this is a prerequisite. Home craftsmen who want to know how to insert a plastic window into a wooden structure need to cut off the top “unreliable” layer if the installation is to be done in an already used box. The foam adheres strongly to top layer. If there is a suspicion that it will exfoliate over time, it is better to eliminate it.

Advice. The gaps between the frame and the opening are filled only with foam, if the distance does not exceed the limit of 4 cm. If the gaps are larger, it is better to partially fill them with cheaper material: drywall, pieces of timber, foam plastic, brick, etc.

Preparing a plastic window

First, release the frame from the sash, for which pull out the pin inserted into the upper hinge. You need to pick it up carefully from below with pliers and a screwdriver. Then, slightly lifting, remove the sash from the bottom hinge. Double-glazed windows are removed from blind windows, having previously removed the longitudinal and then transverse glazing beads. To remove glazing beads, a knife with a thickened side or a spatula is carefully inserted into the gap and slowly shifted, trying not to damage the glass.

Note. It is possible to insert a plastic window of small dimensions using mounting plates without removing the sashes or double-glazed windows. If possible, do not violate the integrity of the factory design.

Lean a double-glazed window or sash at an angle against the wall, placing it on flat surface covered with cardboard or some soft material.

Attention. You can't lay flat! Put with a warp too. The smallest pebble under the base will cause a crack to appear.

WITH outer surface frame, remove the protective film. If you do not remove it now, then it will be much more difficult to do it and you will have to use a building hair dryer.
Regardless of the type of mount chosen, mark the places for its installation. The step strongly recommended by the builders is 40 cm (maybe a little less), allowed by GOSTs a maximum of 70 cm. The standards for indentation from the corners and from the impost are 15 cm. If mounting plates are used, they are pre-attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. Holes are made for anchor bolts or long self-tapping screws by placing a metal drill on the outside of the frame.

Most of the video instructions teaching how to install a plastic window yourself dictate fixing the PSUL protective tape before installation. However, craftsmen, faced with its sticky "inconvenience", convince that it is more reasonable to attach it after installation.

Direct installation process

Insert the frame into the opening, placing special plastic corners or small sticks to provide technological gap. Slightly moving these spacer wedges, set the frame clearly horizontally and vertically with uniform side clearances.

Advice. It is desirable to place spacers near the point of attachment with a self-tapping screw or anchor. They will protect the frame from deformation.

Since the installation pvc windows do-it-yourself can be carried out using different fasteners, on this stage differences appear.
- in the opening wooden house through the holes in the frame, immediately screw in the self-tapping screw. You don't need to screw it all the way in.
- On the walls of foam concrete or brick, mark the points through the holes in the frame, then remove the frame, drill holes with a drill appropriate for the material. Then return the frame to its place, “bait” the fasteners.
- There will be no need for double manipulation of the frame when mounting on anchor plates. They should simply be bent so that they adjoin the place intended for their fastening.

The final fastening is made after the control of the horizontals and verticals with a spirit level and a plumb line. It is impossible to persist with tightening, so that the frame does not begin to bend barrel-shaped. Finish screwing as soon as the hat is level with the frame. Installers advise leaving 1 mm above the surface.
Return the dismantled parts to their place in the reverse order and check the operability of the structure.
Fill gaps with foam. Close the foamed seams from the outside and from the inside with protective tapes. Outside, the insulating tape must be "drowned" in
Fill the gap under the drain with foam. Install it with a slope from the window, attach it with screws to the bottom profile.
After the polymerization of the foam, it is necessary to install a window sill. Plastic variant 2 cm starts under the sweet clover. To create a slight slope from the window, the space under the window sill can also be foamed.
It is desirable to make slopes on the day of installation. Maximum break 3 days after installation.

After performing all operations for 16 hours, it is not recommended to use windows so as not to violate the integrity of the assembly joints. Knowing how to install a plastic window is necessary not only for skilled owners. If the owner of country estate decides to order the services of a little-known team of installers, he also needs to study the specifics of installation in advance.