How to make a stove for a bathhouse with your own hands from brick. Brick stove for a bathhouse - choosing a brick and analyzing the layout

Can a Russian bath exist without a stove? Of course not - in this case it will turn into a completely uninteresting and prosaic bathhouse, because the main thing in a Russian bathhouse is steam. To get it in required quantities and a stove-stove is built in the bathhouse. It heats the air in the steam room to a temperature higher than 60 degrees, and on its hot stones it accumulates thermal energy, water falling on the stones is instantly transformed into scalding steam that is beneficial for human health.

Basic requirements for heater stoves

Because the stove-heater represents the most important component of the Russian bath, serious requirements are placed on it:

high heating capacity, the ability to heat air to a temperature of 95°C under the ceiling of the room (on the floor - up to +45*C), increase the temperature to the required parameters in a short period of time, while being economical
it shouldn't take up much space
the volume of heated water must meet the minimum requirements of all family members, which is about 15 liters per person
its design must be such that the heat accumulated by the stones is retained for a long time
When the stove is operating, gases and smoke should not enter the room.

Types of heater stoves, stoves with a closed heater and an open one

To obtain steam, they resort to pouring water over hot stones located in a stove-heater. Thus, the heater stove provides heating of the entire room and the creation of the required microclimate in it.

Sauna stoves come in two types: stoves with a closed heater or an open one. For small baths you can use a stove open type. It allows you to heat the room very quickly, but after watering the stove cools quickly. The stones in this model are placed above the firebox.

Most often, a sauna stove is built closed type, in them the fuel is burned with the steam door closed, it is at the same level as the upper row of stones. For faster warm-up bath room resort to opening the door. It is necessary to melt such an oven in advance - it will take a couple of hours to warm up. Heat is stored in closed heaters for a couple of days.

Brick oven with a metal heater and a side water tank: 1 - tank support; 2 - water tank; 3 - chimney; 4 - a hatch for watering stones; 5 - heater cover; 6 - wire braces; 7 - stones; 8 - heater grate; 9 - heater pedestal stands; 10 - grate; 11 - furnace door; 12 - blower door

To heat the bath and produce steam in it, structures made of brick and metal are usually used. They are heat-intensive, simple, and reliable in operation. Brickwork prevents too much heating of the metal structure, bath stones can heat up below - up to about 1000 degrees C, at the top - up to 500.

The drawings of the stove-heater can be varied, depending on the design and the estimated mass of the structure, the project may include the construction of a foundation - with an estimated weight of the stove over 450 kg, or without it - with less weight.

Experts recommend deepening the foundation by 0.5 m relative to the soil surface, in each direction it should be 0.1 m wider than the base of the stove. To make the foundation, you can use concrete or rubble stone. It would also be a good idea to lay a layer waterproofing material- glassine or roofing material on a row of bricks laid on top of the base of the foundation.

Basic principles of construction of a stove-heater

To prevent the occurrence of fire hazards, it is not recommended to violate the following rules.

The stove should not be built closer than at a distance of 0.4 m from those made of wood or other flammable materials; for metal, brick-lined stoves, this distance is recommended to be increased to 0.7 m, for metal - up to 1 m. If the dimensions of the room are small, then to reduce the distances, you can resort to insulating the walls with asbestos cardboard sheets and foil.
For the construction of a stove-heater, only red brick of normal firing is used, without defects, with straight edges and corners.
It is not recommended to use bricks made with violations of the firing technology (burnt or unburnt), sand-lime brick, slotted and perforated - they all quickly collapse under the influence high temperatures.

Do-it-yourself stove-stove

When building a stove-heater with your own hands, you use a solution made of sand and clay. Plaster, if it is intended, is made with a solution of clay, sand and lime, which are mixed in a ratio of 1: 4: 1. Sand should be used good quality, free from impurities. dry, sift it before preparing the solution. Do not use fine or silty sand.

The clay is soaked before use, for which it is poured into a metal container and filled with water. It is best to use clay that has been on outdoors and underwent a freezing process. The proportions of sand and clay mixed may vary slightly depending on the quality of the clay.

Brick laying begins from the base.

Before laying, each brick should be dipped in water for 20 seconds - this time will be enough for its pores to fill with water. The foundation of the furnace is laid to the floor level using a mortar of cement and sand having a ratio of 1:3. Next, a clay-sand solution is used. Before laying the base of the furnace, another layer of waterproofing is installed.

When laying bricks, it is recommended to carefully compare its dimensions in height and length, usually for quality masonry It is enough to lay each row “dry”. With this order of work, the seams will turn out beautiful and of the same thickness, it is recommended - no more than 0.5 cm. The rows begin with a corner brick.

When making masonry, you should strictly ensure that the rows are laid strictly horizontally, the seams between the bricks must be filled very tightly. The verticality of the masonry is determined using a plumb line, horizontality - using a level. When laying bricks, you should avoid combining vertical seams; each of them should overlap in the next row.

During the masonry process, such essential components of the heater stove are installed as: grates, damper, doors, water tank. The grate grate is installed in the firebox opening, taking into account a gap on all sides of about 0.5 cm. For the blower and firebox doors, pieces of wire with a diameter of 2 mm are placed in the seams. Laying in rows with a door begins from the place where it is located.

A stove-heater with a tank involves filling the space around it with a clay-asbestos mixture when installing the tank, which will allow the tank to expand freely when heated.

If this point is not taken into account, then there will be a threat of cracks in the masonry.

In places where the chimney passes through the ceiling and roof, a layer of thermal insulation must be laid, for example - mineral wool covered with foil or tin. To protect the chimney from precipitation, a tin cap is built above it.

It is not recommended to immediately start using the stove in the bath - it should be thoroughly dried. This may take 3-4 days. All doors and dampers must be open when drying. Windows and doors are also left open.

First, the stove-heater is heated with chips for 15 minutes several times a day. Repeat the procedure until moisture no longer appears on the damper surface. This clear sign that the stove is completely dry. You should not hurry with the start of operation of a large furnace - its strong heating can disable it.

Since for the construction of a stove-heater they usually use high-quality bricks that have enough decorative look, then it is not at all necessary to plaster it. In addition, the brick looks quite good against the background of natural wood walls.

Ordering the stove

In order for the stove to cope with the functions assigned to it during its laying, it is advisable to use a special scheme that displays each row in a cross section.

For different types stoves provide a strictly defined number of rows, their number depends on the size of the structure.

Ordering example:

Reducing their number is permissible only if the ceilings in the room are very low.

Two types of stoves

There are two types of wood burning stove: intermittent and continuous. Periodic stoves are heated not during a visit to the steam room, but a few hours before the arrival of people, for 3-5 hours. During this time, the stones manage to reach a temperature of about 900°C. The steam in bathhouses with such stoves is dry and light, it does not burn the body. You cannot light such a stove in front of visitors - the smoke from it gets into the steam room.

Furnaces continuous action on the contrary, they are supposed to be heated during the procedures. The stones in such models are placed in metal containers, the temperature of their heating can reach 600 ° C. The steam in such baths is damp and scalding.

How to choose a stove for your sauna

Since the requirements for the furnace are quite diverse and somewhat contradictory, the choice of the type and size of the furnace should be taken into account. special attention. First of all, the design must correspond to the dimensions of the room. If its dimensions are from 4 to 9 square meters, That the best option there will be a metal stove lined with brick. It is relatively lightweight and can be built without a foundation. But at the same time, it will require strengthening the floor at its location with the help of thickened planks. For a more even distribution of the load, a sheet of asbestos cardboard and metal is laid under its base, approximately 2-3 mm thick.

The stones for the steam room itself should also be chosen carefully. They have to:

have a big one specific gravity and dense structure, uniform surface, do not crack when water gets on them,
be environmentally friendly, do not contain chemical or radioactive impurities harmful to humans,
be heat resistant
their dimensions should correspond to the recommended range: 70-130 mm for large and 50-60 mm for small samples.

It is best to purchase stones for the stove-heater in specialized stores.

For the arrangement of the steam room, a brick sauna heater with periodic heating on wood is most often used. Such a heating device is the most convenient and you can build it yourself, while having at least the initial skills of a bricklayer. We will talk about such construction below, and also watch the video in this article on this topic.

About stoves and construction

Types of sauna stoves

There are four main types of stoves for a bath, this is a stove “in white”, “in gray”, “in black” and with a stove. The "black" stove does not have a chimney and when it is fired, all the soot remains in the room. Currently such devices are not used.
The structure, made "in gray" has a chimney, but, nevertheless, soot during the combustion process also settles on the bricks. Therefore, to use the steam room, you need to wait until the wood is completely burned.
The most common types are white brick ovens, they do not leave smoke and soot at all, but some of the models can warm up to 12 hours, although they keep heat much longer. Such models are heated through metal plate, on which stones are placed.
Sometimes they assemble such a structure with their own hands: the tank and stones are placed on cast-iron plates that are not completely closed - then the heating of the room is much faster. The tank is lined with bricks on three sides to maintain the water temperature.

What brick do you need?

If you decide to build, most the best option There will be fire-resistant fireclay bricks, but there is not always enough money for it. Therefore, such designs can be combined using also. Using quality material the stove does not require additional lining.

During the construction of the furnace in such cases, brick grades from M-75 to M-150 with frost resistance are used up to 25 cycles. When choosing a material, you should check whether it has cracks, foreign inclusions, and so on - such specimens are not suitable for construction. You can also use double sand-lime brick M 150 for cladding.

Advice. The quality of a brick can be checked by simply tapping it with a trowel's handle. If there are no flaws, then the sound will be ringing, metallic, and if there are any, the sound will be muffled.

Furnace drawings

The construction of brick sauna stoves is quite complex design, requiring precise execution of various nuances. That is why the drawing must show each of the rows in detail and, if necessary, there must be explanations.

In the diagram, individual parts are indicated by strokes and dividing lines so that you can imagine how many pieces are needed to lay a particular row. All roundings and undercuts on the stones, shown in the diagram, are made using a grinder.

Foundation

The depth of the foundation should be from 50 to 70 cm– everything will depend on the possible freezing of the soil, so you will have to adjust this value yourself. But the components will still be the same - a layer of sand, approximately 10-15 cm, is poured onto the base and watered generously for shrinkage. Then crushed stone, gravel or even construction waste is poured onto it ( broken brick and old knocked down plaster) and all this is compacted, but you need to leave about 30 cm for pouring the cement mortar.
You need to lay it on crushed stone or other bedding waterproofing– usually roofing felt is used for this, but thick cellophane film can also be used. After this, flush with the floor, it is poured cement mortar, which can be made from cement and sand (1/4), but you can use screenings of crushed stone (1/6) instead of sand, then the base will be more durable. Also, roofing felt is laid on top of the foundation in order to eliminate any contact of the brick with dampness, because this will destroy it.

Advice. In order to prevent the foundation from subsiding, its base, that is, the bedding, must be made in an area slightly larger than the filler part. To do this, formwork is installed on the crushed stone, each side of the perimeter of which will be 10 cm less than the backfill.

Construction of the furnace

For the construction of the stove, the instructions provide two types of mortar - cement-sand and clay-sand. Cement mixture made from grade 400 or 500 with the appropriate addition of sand -1/4 or 1/5. The consistency should resemble liquid semolina porridge and slide freely from the trowel.
For clay and sand, the ratio is slightly different and here one part is allocated to clay, and 2.5 parts is allocated to sand. You should mix very carefully, because the clay is very viscous and lumps are difficult to break up, which will interfere with the masonry in the future. The finished mixture should slide freely from the trowel, leaving only small strokes on its surface - this consistency is most suitable for work.

Construction of the furnace

As a rule, first of all, a continuous row of bricks is laid out according to the shape of the furnace - you can call it zero. Such a base must strictly correspond to the shape of the order along the outer contour and have angles exactly corresponding to 90⁰. Of course, the brick itself has a rectangular shape, but in order to avoid a malfunction, check the diagonals - their difference should not exceed 2-3 mm.

The thickness of the seams between stones should not exceed 3-5 mm, and for this you need a high-quality solution, without lumps and debris, then the joint will be easy to adjust according to the right size. When laying each row, a whole brick must cover the joint on the bottom row, and in this case, a spoon ligation is most appropriate. After laying the first row, you should switch to clay mortar.

On the third row, an ash pan door is installed and for their durable installation, galvanized wire is attached to them, as can be seen in the photo, and the top brick is trimmed for a tighter installation.

Many craftsmen also advise cutting a brick over the door with a wedge, because the metal gets very hot and this design is the most durable. Instead of wire, you can use galvanized sheet. Before installing the fourth row, it is imperative to check the masonry building level or a plumb line, since the arrangement of the ash pit and grate begins from here.

In the sixth row, the blower door is installed, and in the seventh row, to install the grate, you need to cut recesses into 1-1.5 cm, moreover, so that the grate has some play after installation, because the expansion of metal and brick when heated is different (metal expands more) and for this a reserve is needed. Most often, such elements (doors, grate) are made of cast iron, as the most refractory element for furnace equipment.
Starting from the eighth row, the masonry is done with a partition and this continues until the fourteenth row, into which channels are installed. An opening is made in the front part of the wall where the water boiler is installed.
The fifteenth row is laid in half a brick - the halves are installed at an angle to each other (for the base of the dividing wall), and then the next three rows are installed using a spoon bandage.
In the nineteenth row, a door is installed to allow steam to enter the steam room, and the twentieth and twenty-first rows should be fastened with strips such as U-shaped hangers or wire. After this, the installation of the exhaust pipe begins, and its height will depend on the height of the bathhouse itself.
Upon completion of the process.

Advice. Exhaust pipe should rise above the roof of the bathhouse by at least 0.5 m. The chimney should be coated with lime or cement mortar that is not afraid of condensation.

Conclusion

You can make a brick oven yourself, the main thing is that you strictly follow the diagram given in this article or any other. And the price of the structure will depend on the quality of the material. That is, be sure to use only fireclay bricks for the firebox, and it is best to install the doors from cast iron.

Metal stoves have a high heat transfer coefficient, do not require a powerful foundation and warm up much faster than brick ones, which is why they are often installed in bathhouses. It’s not difficult to make them yourself - all you need is to have welding skills and have thick-walled metal on hand.

Metal stove in the shape of a boot

Let's consider the procedure for welding a furnace made of 5 mm metal boot-shaped with water tank and internal heater. This design is able to heat a fairly large steam room up to 24 square meters in size. m. Since the stove will be quite heavy, it is better to provide a collapsible version.

Direct smoke output sharply reduces the efficiency of the furnace, which is why our design includes internal heater, delaying the direct exit of combustion products and accumulating heat. This allows for maximum heating of the room in a fairly short period of time and significantly reduces fuel costs.

Manufacturing stages

Workpiece cutting from fairly thick metal with a hacksaw or grinder at home - the process is quite labor-intensive. The guillotine, which is used by enterprises that accept metal, will allow you to cut sheets according to your sketches with greater accuracy, without deformation and defects on the cuts.

1. To obtain a boot-shaped stove with a heater, we will need four metal boxes. The first and second boxes will be joined together using a detachable connection and form the oven itself. In the first of them there will be a firebox, in the second (“top” of the boot) there will be a hole for the chimney. The third box with stones will be inside the furnace. The fourth removable stainless steel water box is installed separately.

2. To avoid errors during assembly, the sheets of metal are first grabbed together, starting from the bottom of the sheets. Final welding is carried out only after the product has been completely assembled and inspected. To prevent smoke from penetrating into the room, the connection of the elements must be of very high quality.

3. We collect box for stones size 50x50 cm. To prevent the top sheet from moving out during welding, it is better to install it on a tripod with a magnet attached to it.

4. In order to grab the lid and bottom, you can place a thin metal square under them to ensure their stability.

5. The bottom of the box for stones, which will bear the entire impact load of the fire, is made of a sheet of thickness not less than 10 mm.

6. Using a grinder, cut out the top of the box door for heater. Its size should be sufficient for steam to escape.

7. At the bottom of the third box, in which the stones will be located, cut out 2-4 holes for pipes(the number of pipes can be arbitrary) at a distance of at least 5 cm from the bottom of the cube to improve traction. A cube with heavy stones will be installed on them.

8. Cut it out hole for firebox size 28x28 cm.

9. At the top of the first box we make hole for inserting a second cube. We cut and weld around the perimeter of this hole on three sides two plates each 4 cm in size to strengthen the incision site and the corner in the left, fourth part. The first three stripes are attached to inner surface, the second - to the outer part of the cut with slight mixing. A small gap is left between the plates for inserting a second box.

10. One plate is welded to the doors of the firebox and heater to strengthen them. The firebox is separated from the ash pan by a grate made of 10-12 cm steel rods. To ensure complete combustion of the fuel, it is necessary to ensure better air flow, so the grate bars are welded along the ash duct.

11. In the second box on the pipes welded in its lower part third cube is inserted, in which the stones will be located.

12. To strengthen the inner cube for stones, small headscarves.

13. For cleaning soot A small hole is made above the door, next to which bolts are welded on 4 sides to install the door. Before installation, it is wrapped to ensure tightness. asbestos thread and screwed brass nuts, protecting the metal from acidification.

14. A lid with a hole for a chimney pipe 12x12 cm (the size of half a brick) is welded to the top of the heater. To install it, it is welded to the hole. "skirt" made of metal. The cube with the stone box installed is inserted into the first one.

The design of the stove may vary. order cutting blanks a stove with an open heater and a built-in water tank is shown in the following figure:

Installation of a metal furnace

Metal structure weighs much less than a brick oven, so it does not require a separate foundation. It is enough to provide a strong refractory base with an area twice the area of the furnace itself. It may consist of the following layers:
asbestos cardboard;
sheet of stainless steel to reflect thermal radiation;
layers of fireclay bricks about 6 cm thick;
fire-resistant magnesite plate with a thickness of at least 9 mm or concrete screed.

To protect the metal from rapid burning and increase the heat transfer of the furnace lined: the bottom and sides of the structure are lined with refractory (fireclay) bricks. A metal structure can become red-hot under intense fire conditions, so it is placed at a distance of at least 1 m from flammable objects. Adjacent walls are plastered, faced with brick or sheathed with sheet iron.

It is undesirable to cut the floor beams to create a hole for the chimney, so it must be provided during the construction of the building. Availability knees in the chimney can lead to the formation of a significant layer of soot in horizontal sections pipes. If for some reason the creation of an elbow is still necessary, it is made collapsible, which greatly simplifies the process of cleaning the chimney.

No matter how beneficial and simplified it may seem modern version heating a bathhouse with the help of , experienced experts unanimously advise: it is better to use traditional brick. Gentle heat, aesthetic appearance, rich but not scalding steam - only a brick oven can provide these advantages. And if you want the device to heat not only the steam room, but also the adjacent room, there is an even more profitable option - a stove with a firebox from the dressing room, equipped with a water tank. It will not be easy to build such a structure with your own hands, but, having in front of you step by step instructions, drawings and installation photos, anyone with basic construction skills can complete the task.

Material selection: types and sizes of kiln bricks

The first step is to purchase the main construction material- brick. If your budget is limited, you can choose ordinary ceramic bricks. Its dimensions are standard - 25 x 12 x 65 mm. But here you need to take into account one nuance: so that the material can withstand without negative consequences difficult conditions operation due to high temperatures and humidity, you will need to treat it with special protective compounds. Great option– heat-resistant varnish for a brick stove.

Brick for the stove

A more suitable raw material for a bathhouse is yellow-straw-colored fireclay bricks. They are made at high temperatures by pressing and firing, so they are extremely reliable. As a rule, products are sold in three size variations:

standard – 230 x 125 x 65 mm;
narrowed – 230 x 114 x 65 mm;
narrowed with reduced thickness - 230 x 114 x 40 mm.

Bricks must be free of voids, that is, solid.

Preparation of tools and consumables

To lay the stove you will need not only bricks, but also many auxiliary materials and tools. The most important ones that will need to be purchased in advance:

grate bars – 6 pieces of standard size 300 x 220 mm;
firebox door – 250 x 280 mm;
door for the blower - 200 x 250 mm;
quartz or river sand;
fireclay clay;
door for compartment with stones;
steel corners – 4 pcs;

Required Tools

steel sheet for firebox;
steel corners for the ceiling - 10 pcs;
fireclay elements for the ceiling - 6 pcs;
heat-resistant varnish for a brick stove;
construction mixer;
level.

Now you need to prepare a clay mortar that will serve as a binding material for the bricks. First, soak the clay for 2 days - dry material is difficult to process. Then knead it with a special spatula, add water and knead using construction mixer until you get a composition that resembles sour cream. Then add sand to the mixture. The ratio of clay and sand should be 1:1. Then knead the mixture again until a homogeneous solution is obtained.

Advice. If the clay is too oily, add a little fireclay mortar to it along with sand.

Formation of the base

One brick standard sizes with the solution it weighs approximately 4 kg, so the entire structure of the furnace is very heavy - you cannot do without a high-quality base. The foundation is arranged as follows:

in the area where you plan to install the stove, dig a hole 70 cm deep;

Important! When digging a hole, keep in mind that the base should protrude beyond the boundaries of the future stove structure by 5-6 cm on all sides.

Fill the bottom of the depression with 15 cm of sand and moisten the layer so that it sinks well;
lay a 15 cm layer of gravel (you can mix gravel with broken bricks);
install the formwork;
lay a reinforced metal frame on the base;

Furnace base

prepare cement mortar and fill the hole with it;
level the base and leave to harden;
when the cement is completely dry, remove the formwork and fill the remaining cracks, if any, with sand;
check the level of the foundation - if there are any unevenness, level the base using concrete composition– it is important that the surface is perfectly flat.

The finished foundation must be waterproofed. To do this, lay sheets of roofing felt on it.

Laying a stove with your own hands: the first stage

The most difficult thing in arranging a stove is the first rows. They must be perfectly even, since it will be necessary to focus on them in the process of further laying. Let's get started:

Starting from the corners, lay the first row of bricks around the perimeter. When the edging is ready, fill in inner part. The layer of clay mortar for a bunch of bricks should be approximately 3-5 mm.
Lay the second row offset - the seams of the first row should be located directly in the middle of the second.
Lay the third and fourth rows with similar offsets, leaving space for the ash pan.
Install the blower door: secure it with galvanized wire. To prevent the latter from interfering during further installation, cut grooves in the adjacent bricks and hide it there. After this, fill the grooves with clay mortar.
Lay the fifth row of bricks and install the grate. Install a steel corner so that you can easily change the grates later - they sometimes burn out.

Next, begin to build the lining - an internal screen made of bricks that will protect the furnace walls from high temperatures. Lining is performed only at the level of the combustion part of the structure. At the same time, between protective screen and the external walls of the firebox must maintain a distance of 22 mm to compensate for the difference in expansion of the internal layers.

Furnace laying: second stage

Once you have completed the construction of the internal and external walls of the combustion chamber, proceed to installation combustion door. To fasten it, you can use the same galvanized wire, but it is better to twist not one piece, but three at once.

Next, lay another row of bricks and begin to build a chamber for the stones. Its size should be such that all the cobblestones are heated evenly, that is, there is no need for a structure that is too large - in this case, the heat will not reach the top stones. It is believed that optimal height– 40-50 cm. When the chamber is laid out, trim it with steel sheets that reflect heat.

The next step is to install the second grate. After this, continue to build rows, leaving an opening for steam. Its average width is 50 cm. This is absolutely enough to replace stones or repair the internal walls of the stove. The height of the opening is 5 rows. After laying them, you need to close the holes - for this you will have to order a special door for the dimensions of a specific structure.

When the oven reaches the size you need, cover the structure with a steel sheet with a pre-cut hole. Then install the corners for the ceiling and cover them with bricks. Then start building the chimney.

After completing the laying of the stove, install a water tank nearby and connect the structures with metal or metal-plastic pipes.

As you can see, the masonry brick oven with a firebox from the dressing room consists of a lot of procedures that cannot be called simple construction work. Therefore, in order to successfully cope with them, strictly follow the technology and do not neglect safety rules - there is no place for amateur performance, because every step must be thought out to the smallest detail.

Laying a stove for a bath: video

Bath stove: photo

Today it's hard to imagine Vacation home without a real Russian steam room and its main attribute - the stove. Among the large assortment of types, it is difficult to choose a device that meets all the necessary requirements and meets financial condition. After reading this article to the end, you can easily build a sauna stove with your own hands.

Sauna stoves - types and advantages

First of all, you need to choose the appropriate type of heating unit for the steam room so that it heats up quickly and keeps it warm while relaxing. The main properties that the selected design has are:

Compactness;
Ease of use;
Fire safety;
Power adjustment.

According to their classification, sauna stoves are divided into heating structures of constant, variable and combined effects.

Electric heaters are classified as permanent devices. The design of this sauna stove is a cast iron container with stones that heat up when kindled with wood. You can begin bathing procedures after the stones begin to produce steam when they come into contact with water. Advantages of the heater: ease of operation, no carbon monoxide and fast heating. Electric heaters do not have a special damper that maintains the desired temperature, so you have to constantly add firewood, which is not convenient. You can manufacture and install this stove yourself by obtaining permission from the inspection department. fire safety. A special feature of heaters is the need to create grounding.
Combined action furnaces are a device that combines the properties of constant and alternating action furnaces. These models evenly heat a steam room and are in demand among modern owners of country estates. The design has a separation of the combustion and wood compartments, and there may be no water tank. Such stoves are bought in specialized stores due to the fact that manufacturing is not a simple process.
Devices for heating baths with variable action include brick stoves. The furnace is laid from refractory bricks, and the stones in it are heated using an open fire. The advantages include long-term heat retention in the room, maximum strength, environmental friendliness and attractive appearance. The oven should be heated for several hours. Low resource savings - it takes a lot of money to light such a stove. a large number of firewood For self-construction This type of furnace requires special knowledge and significant investment.

As you can see from the list above, the best option for a sauna is a heater stove. Based on the type of fuel, such a heating unit is divided into:

Wood burning stove. The wood used is deciduous and coniferous species trees, this gives the room the right atmosphere and sets the mood for relaxation.
Electric oven. It is installed in rooms where there is no smoke exhaust and has a number of advantages, including short heating times, environmental friendliness, compactness and ease of use. I choose this model, you will not have to be distracted by maintaining heat, and you will completely surrender to the pleasures of the bath. U electric oven There is a significant drawback for a bathhouse - it consumes a large amount of electricity.
Gas oven. Such heating units are large in size and consume a lot of gas. If we talk about the advantages, then this is ease of use, fast heating of water and maintaining the set temperature in the room.

There are a variety of heater stoves on store shelves, but what a pleasure it is to make one yourself.

How to build a metal sauna stove with your own hands

frame for heating device High quality metal will serve; its use does not require special skills and knowledge. finished form, the stove must have fire safety and a sealed design to prevent carbon monoxide from entering the room.
To start making you will need the following materials:

Metal, 6 mm thick, or country barrel;
Door made of cast iron; Fittings and fittings;
Metal grate for stones.

Below you see the main elements of the future heating device:
A do-it-yourself sauna stove is created in stages:

First of all, a blower measuring 200x60 mm is made and it is located at the bottom future furnace. The vent is closed with a cast iron door;
At the second stage, a combustion chamber is created. If you use a barrel, then this element is cut out in the middle. Grate bars are placed at the bottom of the chamber, and firewood is placed on them to light the stove. A chimney is installed on top; for high-quality fastening, it is better to scald it with metal.
The final stage is the installation of the heater.

Below are drawings that will help you easily build a sauna stove with your own hands.

A sauna stove, whether it is your brainchild or you purchased it in a store, has special installation requirements:

First, the stove needs to be tested (without placing stones in it), this will allow you to evaluate the tightness of the seams and the strength of the structure;
The installation location of the sauna stove is selected in such a way that one structure heats the entire steam room;
The walls behind the stove are lined with special heat-resistant tiles. Metal sheets are also used;
Flammable objects must be kept at a safe distance;
In order not to come into contact with the hot stove, it is protected by a special grill;
The lounger should be located at a moderate distance from the heating device;
The place where the chimney pipe exits the steam room onto the street is lined metal sheet, this will prevent the wall from charring;
The sauna stove itself, created with your own hands, is placed on a metal plate, this is done so that accidentally falling stones do not cause a fire.

Installing a stove is an important process, mistakes in which lead to disastrous consequences.

Making a brick oven yourself

In order to lay a brick stove, you should know in what order the rows are laid out and what brand of bricks should be used. Below you can see the arrangement of a brick oven done by a professional.
Exist different variants masonry, if you are making a stove for the first time, then it is better to choose a simple option; this will not affect the quality of the device. Compared to a heater for a brick stove, a foundation is laid out and covered with roofing felt. Only after this can you begin the laying itself.

The bricks for the stove are chosen to be special and of high quality. A standard brick has dimensions of 250x120x65, this allows for even laying. If you purchase ordinary brick (it is several times cheaper than stove brick), its dimensions may not coincide with the standards. Masonry mortar is purchased at hardware store or do it yourself by mixing sand, clay and water. A properly executed solution looks like a sour cream mixture.
The process of laying a brick sauna stove is difficult to explain; it is best to show it in a photo. Here you can consider each stage separately.

If you decide to buy a sauna stove in a specialized store, then read the recommendations of specialists and answer the following questions:

What kind of stove do you need: wood or electric? If we compare electric and wood-burning stoves, we note that in the first case, it is ease of use and wide choose design. Such devices require energy consumption, which in many cases is not acceptable. Wood-burning stoves are absolutely environmentally friendly, heat up quickly and do not depend on electricity. The only disadvantage of this heating unit is the constant need to add fuel. For people who follow the traditions of the Russian bath, these disadvantages become an advantage.

Where is the fire door located? There are two types of door locations: inside the steam room and outside (in the relaxation room). The advantage of the second option is the presence of a fireplace in the relaxation room and the absence of the need to allocate space in the steam room for storing firewood.

Will you be heating water or do you need a tankless furnace? This issue is not even discussed - water is always needed. Firstly, for washing, and secondly, to throw water on the stones. All that remains is to decide what volume will be enough for you to carry out full-fledged bath procedures.

How many stones should be placed in the kiln? The atmosphere in the room depends on the number of stones. The more stones are placed in the oven, the softer the steam.

Which manufacturer is better? This question is probably one of the difficult ones, because in the modern world there are a huge number of different stoves for baths with different functions and characteristics. To choose a device that meets all the requirements, you need to decide on the functions it should have. Common ones are sauna stoves Harvia and Kastor.

Building a sauna stove with your own hands is not difficult if you follow the above instructions and follow all the technologies. If you use your imagination in manufacturing, you will end up with a unique, attractive, and most importantly functional device for heating a steam room.

Original sauna stoves: photo

Below you will get acquainted with unusual and original heating devices for baths, created by summer residents on their own.
Which stove to choose for your own country bathhouse is an individual matter for everyone, the main thing is that it is strong, durable and meets all safety requirements.