The issue of building insulation is now more acute than ever. Most start with wall insulation, but this is where it ends, however, as you know, warm air tends to rise and leave through the roof, so attic floor insulation plays an important role. Like all construction works insulation should be carried out qualitatively. But how to insulate the attic floor in order to get the maximum benefit?
When choosing a heater for the attic floor, it is important to take into account its heat-shielding properties, strength, and resistance to external factors. The type of flooring will also play a role: concrete and wooden floors have their own characteristics. So, how to insulate the attic floor?
Popular attic insulation
Types of heaters:
- Basalt mineral wool.
- Expanded clay.
- Styrofoam.
- Sawdust.
Mineral wool
Most often, attic floor insulation is carried out with the help of mineral wool. What are its features and why is this heater so popular?
Mineral wool is laid between the wooden beams of the attic floor
Benefits of mineral wool:
- High thermal insulation. For example, to insulate the attic floor with mineral wool, the layer thickness is 3.5 times less than when using expanded clay.
- Ease of material installation. This heater is not difficult to work even for those who are engaged in insulation for the first time.
- Fire safety. Mineral wool is not easily flammable, therefore, in the event of a fire, it does not serve as a fast carrier of fire, which, for example, cannot be said about polystyrene foam.
- Long operating period. If you properly lay the mineral wool, it will not roll down and will not create cold bridges.
- Affordable price.
It is thanks to all these advantages that attic floor insulation with mineral wool is a widely used way to save heat in a room.
However, this heater also has disadvantages. In particular, due to its ability to absorb moisture, the mineral wool insulation layer may no longer provide the same thermal insulation as before. Also, when insulating the attic floor with mineral wool, it is important to observe safety precautions. Mineral wool fibers in contact with the skin can cause irritation, so you should work with it in tight clothing, glasses, a respirator and, of course, gloves.
Expanded clay
Another material for attic floor insulation is expanded clay. Although this insulation is rarely used, it still has a number of advantages.
Expanded clay - very popular in the earlier heat insulator
Expanded clay advantages:
- The cost of insulation.
- Good indicators of thermal insulation. However, in order to truly good result, the thickness of the expanded clay layer should be about 35-40 centimeters.
- Fire safety.
However, expanded clay as a heater also has significant disadvantages:
- More weight than other heaters. The thermal insulation of a wooden attic floor creates a load on the beams, so when choosing expanded clay, this point should be taken into account.
- Installation inconvenience. Raising a huge amount of expanded clay to the attic can cost a lot of effort.
Styrofoam
Styrofoam is one of the best materials for wall insulation, so some decide to use it for thermal insulation of the attic floor. And although the foam has advantages, it is still not recommended to use it.
Attic floor insulated with foam plastic from below
The advantages of foam:
- Waterproof. This is a plus compared to the widely used mineral wool.
- Affordable price.
- Ease of installation. Lifting sheets of foam and laying on the attic floor is not difficult.
Despite these advantages, foam as a heater has a number of significant drawbacks.
Foam Disadvantages:
- High flammability. If the fire reaches the heater, it is unlikely that the fire will be extinguished.
- Intolerance to high temperatures. At a temperature of +60°C, the material deforms, at +80°C it begins to melt, which releases toxic substances, and at +210°C the foam ignites.
- Fragility. The foam is able to crumble, which reduces its thermal insulation properties.
In view of these shortcomings, especially insecurity in case of fire, it is better not to use polystyrene foam as a heater for a wooden attic floor. After all, the combination of foam plastic with wooden beams is very dangerous. However, this insulation can be used for thermal insulation of concrete floors.
Sawdust
This method of insulation was very popular earlier, before the advent of modern thermal insulation materials. It is not without its advantages, although they are very insignificant compared to other heaters.
Sawdust Benefits:
- The absence of toxic substances, as well as the natural origin of the insulation.
- Relatively affordable price.
If we talk about the shortcomings of sawdust, we can note:
- The need to prepare a solution consisting of sawdust, cement, lime and water. All other heaters are bought ready-made.
- Large weight, which creates an additional load on the floor.
- Large thickness of the insulation layer.
Important! After analyzing all the advantages and disadvantages different heaters, many come to the conclusion that mineral wool is ideal option, because it has high thermal insulation properties, is fireproof, easy to install, and also has affordable price. As for its shortcomings, hygroscopicity can be compensated for by installing vapor barrier and waterproofing, and inconvenience when laying mineral wool - by observing safety rules.
Mounting process
Having decided on the material for thermal insulation, the question arises: how to properly insulate the attic floor? If we talk about mineral wool, then what density should it have and what layer of insulation will be the best?
The choice of layer and density of mineral wool
Warming with mineral wool is best done in two layers
In short, the larger the layer of mineral wool, the better. However, it must be remembered that mineral wool has its own coefficient of thermal conductivity. The lower this coefficient, the higher the thermal insulation properties, and, therefore, you can lay a smaller layer of wool or have greater efficiency insulation. Often, mineral wool with a thickness of 15–20 centimeters is used, however, a 30-cm layer of insulation can also be used to provide increased thermal insulation. It is also worth noting that with an equal thickness of insulation, two layers of mineral wool are always better than one.
You also need to pay attention to the density of mineral wool, because it can be different: from 30 kg / m 3 to 220 kg / m 3. Thermal insulation properties practically do not depend on density. More dense insulation used for facades and floors under the screed. Mineral wool with a density of 35 kg / m 3 is also suitable for the attic floor, because the insulation will be on a horizontal unloaded surface.
vapor barrier
Since mineral wool tends to absorb moisture, you need to start warming with steam laying. insulating material.
Vapor barrier - the first layer of insulation
Important! It is best to lay a layer of vapor barrier under the wooden beams, because otherwise, they will be very susceptible to rotting. Nevertheless, if it is impossible to put a vapor barrier film under the beams, they must be impregnated with solutions that protect against rotting and mold.
The best option is to lay a continuous layer of vapor barrier, but due to the size of the attic, this is not always possible, so all joints must be glued with special tape to ensure tightness. The edges of the vapor barrier must be raised above the level of the future insulation and glued with the same tape.
thermal insulation
It is necessary to work with heat-insulating materials in overalls
The next step is to install the heater. It must be laid so as to completely fill the entire space between the wooden beams. If we are talking about mineral wool, then it does not need to be pressed or squeezed. It should completely cover the space between the beams, leaving no gaps or gaps. The floor beams themselves will also not be superfluous to cover with heat-insulating material, because they can serve as a kind of cold bridges.
When laying mineral wool, it is very important to protect yourself, and especially your respiratory tract, from getting into the fibers of the insulation. Therefore, you need to use a respirator, as well as gloves, goggles and long-sleeved clothing.
Waterproofing
We complete the insulation of the attic floor with waterproofing and subfloor installation
Due to the property of mineral wool to absorb moisture, waterproofing must be laid on top of the mineral wool layer. It is also necessary if a concrete screed is poured over the insulation.
If the attic is constantly used, a subfloor can be made on top of such a heat-insulating "pie". In its role can be a concrete screed or OSB slabs. If the attic is practically not used, then you can simply lay the boards on top of the existing beams. Then, if necessary, go up to the attic, movement through it will not create difficulties.
As you can see, attic floor insulation is an affordable task, even for those who have never done it. It is necessary to decide on the material for thermal insulation, although most often it is mineral wool. When installing a heat-insulating "pie", it is important to remember the need for vapor barrier and waterproofing. This will achieve high results in the insulation of the attic floor.
Video: we discuss in detail the design of the floor
An overview of the structural details of the attic floor insulation device. What is a sufficient layer of insulation for a cold attic? What are the specifics of the work on laying the thermal insulation of the attic floor?
Private housing construction in our country is constantly growing and developing. Basically, these are mansions with a height of two floors. The uppermost tier forms an attic floor, the insulation of which on wooden beams is possible with your own hands without the use of special equipment. To do this, you can get by with simple carpentry tools, making a kind of “pie” from vapor barrier and special materials.
You can insulate the attic along the beams with your own hands, without special equipment
Reasons for warming
The roof is one of the main ways of heat loss. Therefore, if the upper level of the dwelling is supposed to be left cold, the competent separation of heated rooms from unheated ones will become the main task of a caring owner. Required critical factors, which affect the microclimate in the house when insulating the hardwood floor of the attic:
Material selection
In addition to low thermal conductivity, resources intended for laying in the attic must have certain properties. Chief among them are:
Insulation for the attic must be lightweight and not attract rodents. - Resistance to mechanical stress and moisture without changing the physical characteristics.
- Complete incombustibility and indestructibility under the influence of high or low temperatures.
- Light weight, which does not create additional load on the bearing parts of the structure.
- To ensure normal moisture and temperature regime vapor permeability is required. This guarantees free passage of air and water vapor.
- Any insulation must be environmentally friendly, that is, do not contain chemically active and toxic substances, do not cause allergies.
- The absence of organic compounds does not attract rodents and other animals to use the insulation as food.
Summing up these factors, in the modern market, you can choose the appropriate product.
Mineral wool products
For its laying, vapor and waterproofing is required, which protects from warm air from below and from the penetration of moisture from above. Usually, laying is carried out on the attic floor, less often they try to insulate the ceiling in the room. Such material is sold both in the form of plates and in rolls. This is an inexpensive, reliable component that is not afraid of compression and deformation, covering not only flat surface, but also protrusions of beams and ceilings.
Mineral wool - fire-resistant material, requires vapor barrier and moisture insulation It should be noted a few more advantages of wadded heaters:
- low price;
- simple installation;
- unattractive to rodents;
- fire safety.
However, working with such materials requires the use of personal protective equipment: tight overalls, a respirator, goggles and gloves. There are several ways to work with mineral wool:
- solid flooring;
- laying in cells;
- location within the grooves.
Installation of mineral wool must be carried out in protective clothing, glasses, gloves The choice depends on the maximum load on the floor. The second option is preferable with the ultimate pressure on the supporting structure.
The laying of glass wool insulation begins with the vapor barrier flooring. This film allows vapors to escape from heat into a cool room. How to use it is in the instructions for use and in the labeling on the package. It is recommended to overlap 10 cm between panels. The layer must cover all the bends and fit snugly to the base, otherwise, due to moisture, the wooden beams will begin to rot. At the joints with the walls, a bend is required for the thickness of the insulation plus 5 centimeters and sizing the edges with tape.
It is necessary to lay the mineral wool tightly, leaving no gaps between the plates. Next is the installation of cotton wool. It is cut with a knife and laid end-to-end without gaps and squeezing. If this rule is not observed, the tightness of the connection is violated. When working, you should follow a few recommendations:
- If insulation with foil is used, then this layer should be from below.
- Do not allow glass wool to go beyond the beam. If this happens, the structure must be supplemented with a rail or beam to the required thickness.
- Two thin layers of insulation are preferable to one thick one. In this case, staggered overlapping is recommended.
- With existing protruding structures such as chimneys, the insulation rises by 40-50 cm, followed by fixation.
- On final stage lay a waterproofing film and subfloor. After that, you should start finishing work.
Styrofoam laying
With the help of such material, you can turn the attic into a living space suitable for being there at any time. Due to its structure, which is foamed air granules pressed into plates, it has a low thermal conductivity. It should be laid closely, since any gap becomes a path for the penetration of cold air.
When spreading a vapor barrier film, pay attention to the marking. It must be on the correct side. The distance between the components must be maintained at least 20-30 mm, and the insulation itself must be 70 mm thick, in the northern regions - 100 mm.
Styrofoam - lightweight and quickly mounted, but you should be careful, this material has poor fire resistance The negative point is the flammability of the foam. The advantages of this material include:
- budget cost;
- ease of installation;
- moisture impermeability.
The laying technology is more than simple and freely done by hand. You can divide the work into 2 stages:
- To ensure high-quality thermal insulation, all irregularities must be eliminated. Therefore, before installation, level the surface with a cement screed.
- Directly placing sheets with careful sealing of cracks and joints. When avoiding obstacles, holes must be cut with maximum precision. If the layer is homogeneous, then the heat will be retained better.
The gaps formed during the installation of the insulation must be sealed with mortar or mounting foam It is necessary to protect the insulation from destruction with the help of a film and a subfloor made of OSB or similar building material.
Extruded polystyrene foam
Many builders call this option the most suitable for attic insulation. It can be used under any conditions and under any beam ceiling. The use of such material will save space, since required thickness For effective insulation compared to mineral wool is 2-3 times less.
Expanded polystyrene is a thin, dense material that saves space in the attic Several enterprises are engaged in the production of expanded polystyrene, so its appearance may be different. You should choose a product with a density of 32-34 kg / m, and a thickness of 40 to 100 mm. In the store you can pick up curly elements that lay out intricate designs. Installation is most conveniently carried out in two layers: the first is located between the floors, and the second closes the beams.
The disadvantage of such materials is flammability. To reduce the fire hazard, mineral wool can be laid in between or antipyrine can be added.
The use of expanded clay
This is one of the oldest ways insulate technical and attic spaces. For effective use, the material should be poured into the gaps between the overlaps with a layer of 15 centimeters. This universal remedy thermal insulation that can be mixed with other bulk materials such as sand or sawdust.
It is better to cover the floor with expanded clay during the construction of the building Despite the low weight, a thick layer of expanded clay exerts a large load on the supporting structure.
It is better to lay the insulator during the construction of the building. This will allow you to easily fill all the ceilings under the attic and mount hoods and chimneys. To protect against getting wet, a film is required, and expanded clay should be poured directly onto wooden structures, since a large amount of dust is released during operation.
To the main advantages of this building material, obtained by firing clay, relate:
- natural origin;
- low thermal conductivity;
- environmental Safety;
- small mass.
Expanded clay has low thermal conductivity Difficulties during work may arise with the delivery of expanded clay to a great height. Attic insulation measures can be divided into 3 stages:
- Inspect the surface for cracks. If found, they must be sealed with a solution or covered with a film. The presence of protruding elements is not a problem during installation.
- Production of cobbled lathing for laying a subfloor.
- Backfilling of expanded clay and its alignment with a rake. It is best to use granules of different sizes that do not form voids when filling the space.
Use of sawdust
They are formed as a result of wood processing and are the cheapest material for insulation. You can buy them at any sawmill. Many owners of woodworking enterprises give them away for free. This insulator has the following advantages:
- low cost, almost equal to the cost of delivery;
- being an organic material, sawdust is harmless to humans, does not cause allergic reactions, unlike many modern artificial thermal insulations;
- porous structure reduces thermal conductivity.
The disadvantages include fire hazard., which does not decrease even when other materials are added. Preparation for use consists in mixing sawdust, cement and water in a ratio of 10:1:1. Next, the resulting composition is necessary
Sawdust is a cheap environmental material, but it has a high fire hazard. pour on the floor and level.
It is possible to use such material only in non-residential premises, since during movement through the attic the insulating layer is compressed and destroyed. To prevent this, it is necessary to make a structure from a bar in the form of cells and fill each nest with cement. A rough floor covering is laid on top.
Foam spray
This is one of the new ways to insulate attic spaces. There are two types of such material: blown or ecological cotton wool. The second contains 80 percent of cellulose fiber, which is made from waste paper, the rest is fire-fighting agents and antiseptics. By appearance both insulators resemble the usual mounting foam.
Method of application - spraying on wooden floors between beams. Ecowool is also available in granular form. In this case, it is simply poured, leveled and rammed between structures.
Ecowool is an excellent heat insulator, but installation requires special equipment Any work on the installation of insulation under the roof provides for compliance simple rules. These include the following items:
- Inspection of beams and ceilings. All defects found must be corrected.
- Antiseptic and fungicidal treatment of wooden parts.
- Vapor barrier installation with taped seams.
- Placement or filling of insulating material.
- Sealing and insulation of joints.
- Installation of waterproofing film. It is necessary to provide for overlapping and strengthening the connection with adhesive tape.
- Installation of insulation on ventilation, exhaust and chimney ducts. Use for this basalt wool or perlite in a corrugated pipe.
When choosing means for thermal insulation, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances of future operation. In the case of equipping an attic for living quarters, mineral wool would be the best option. If we talk about a set of measures for energy saving, then the most effective will be the use of universal materials. But in any case, in addition to saving heat, you need to take care of protection from moisture and fumes.
Heat, as you know, rises. And safely leaves the room through an uninsulated attic.
Losses in winter can reach up to 15%.
To eliminate these losses, regardless of the purpose of using the under-roof space, insulation of the attic floor over wooden beams is required.
Attic insulation is a whole range of works, which, subject to technologies and requirements, corresponds to a number of features:
- High-quality thermal insulation of the attic prevents heat loss and cold air from entering the building, which significantly affects heating costs;
- In summer, the insulation of attic floors does not allow the building to warm up through the ceiling and allows you to maintain an optimal microclimate without resorting to air conditioning once again;
- Insulation in compliance with technological requirements is able to pass air and prevents condensation from accumulating in the attic;
- The use of hydro - and vapor barrier protects wooden structures from the appearance of mold, fungus, which significantly increases the service life;
- Properly performed work on the insulation of the attic prevents the formation of ice and icicles.
The technology of work on the insulation of the attic floor
After laying wooden beams, waterproofing of the ceiling is performed. It prevents the penetration of moisture and additionally protects the insulation.
A multilayer reinforced material made of polyethylene, polypropylene can act as a waterproofing agent.
The ideal option for attaching a waterproofing is considered to be a solid layer under the beams. If this is not possible, the laying is carried out between the beams with an overlap, overlapping the wooden structures, and fixed with adhesive tape from above for tightness. 
Direct insulation of the attic floor on wooden beams is carried out by laying heat-insulating materials between them.
When using bulk raw materials, the filling of all voids and the evenness of the surface are controlled. If the thickness of the insulation used is greater than the width of the wooden beams, an additional installation of the crate is required, fixed across the supporting structure. 
In addition, it is necessary to provide for options for sheathing the beams themselves with heat-insulating material in order to exclude “cold bridges”.
Regardless of the type of finish finishing coating, it is desirable to lay another layer of waterproofing on top of the thermal insulation.
The floor of the insulated attic is made of boards laid across the beams, plywood, chipboard.
Video tips:
Attic insulation with mineral wool
Mineral wool- a fairly popular raw material, as a heat insulator for floors. The material is cheap, non-flammable, withstands fairly high temperatures, keeps heat well and is easy to use.
The disadvantages include susceptibility to moisture, which requires good waterproofing when it is used.
Available in rolls and slabs. Both types are suitable for thermal insulation. But the use of the roll option allows you to simultaneously overlap the beams. Laying is carried out close to the guides, trying not to crush the mineral wool. 
Mineral wool is easy to install, so it is in demand when independent work. Be sure to use protective equipment when working with mineral wool.
Clothing is required that covers all parts of the body, gloves, as well as a respirator and goggles.
Polyurethane foam as an attic heat insulator
If you choose the perfect insulation for quality characteristics, then polyurethane foam will lead the leaders. 
Raw materials perfectly keep heat, non-combustible, durable, light, resistant to external influences, non-hygroscopic, uninteresting to rodents.
But all its advantages outweigh the cost of raw materials. In small towns and villages, it is problematic to purchase such a heater.
When decision in favor of the characteristics, it is necessary to determine the type of polyurethane foam insulation.
It is easier to install ready-made slabs from this raw material, but this method has the disadvantage of joints and uncovered beams. 
Polyurethane foam in the form of foam is applied by spraying and penetrates into all possible places. A thin layer is enough to obtain a protective effect.
Spraying polyurethane foam requires special tools and certain skills.
So is foam good?
Laying foam boards for insulating attic floors between wooden beams is within the power of even a novice inexperienced self-taught builder.
Installation is carried out on top of the film, tightly adjoining the plates to each other and to the ceilings. The gaps are sealed with mounting foam.
A waterproofing layer is laid on top and finishing is performed.
The popularity of this insulation is dictated by its low cost, thermal insulation qualities and ease of installation. 
All advantages are crossed out by the fire hazard of raw materials. In addition to the low melting and ignition temperature, the foam releases gases hazardous to health when heated.
Therefore, the insulation of wooden floors with foam is not the best option. Such a thermal insulator is more suitable for concrete slabs and exterior finishes.
Warming with bulk materials
Expanded clay or sawdust is used for bulk insulation. Both heat insulators are environmentally friendly natural raw materials that retain heat well.
For backfilling in the attic, a crate is installed. The bulk layer reaches 250–300 mm. A finishing board or plywood is laid on top.
Related video:
When using expanded clay, it is necessary to carry out additional calculations for the bearing capacity of the floors. Expanded clay is not a light insulation and the ceiling may not withstand the load.
Sawdust, despite the seeming ease of use, requires additional processing and is not poured in its pure form, but a special composition is prepared in which sawdust is only one of the components.
To prepare the solution, the following materials are needed:
- 10 parts of sawdust;
- 1 part lime;
- 1 part cement;
- 5-10 parts liquid with antiseptic.
The choice of a heat insulator for the attic and the technology of its laying depends on the required insulation characteristics and financial capabilities.
In any case, even minimal insulation will protect the building and save on heating.
Cool attic ceiling heating
Since the roof of a cool attic serves only the function of protecting against rain, snow and partial wind, special attention should be paid to the thermal insulation of the soil. Thermal insulation heating is carried out using various thermal insulation materials with mandatory wind protection, especially from the roof side.
Thermal coating in two layers with mineral wool cylinders
The laying of the insulation is usually done directly on the cool attic floor.
Of course, if the attic does not work. This will save on a layer of waterproofing film, as well as on the organization of a full floor covering.
How to isolate the ceiling of the attic and what materials can be used for this - read below.
What is the thickness of the attic insulation?
The thickness of the thermal insulation layer does not depend on the design of the ceiling in the attic on wooden beams or reinforced concrete.
On the packaging of any insulation, the coefficient of thermal conductivity? And has two meanings: A - for a dry environment and? B - for wet. The lower this coefficient, the better the insulating properties of the material.
Based on this value, the insulation of the lower part of the attic is calculated.
Attic insulation thickness:
where R0 is the coefficient of resistance to heat transfer, which is 4.15 m in the standard? °C / W.
Floor heating over wooden beams
Most small houses and cold roof villas are used wooden ceilings, so their thermal insulation, which we will first consider.
Installation ceiling ceiling on wooden beams, as a rule, is carried out as follows:
- Lower floor;
- Vapor barrier;
- The beams overlap;
- insulation;
- waterproofing;
- Completion.
The ceiling device in a private house with a cold attic begins with the laying of load-bearing beams.
Since they usually have a maximum length of 4 meters, it is necessary to build supports or use metal programs for large areas.
Scheme of a wooden attic device by laying the heater in two layers
After laying the beams, a vapor barrier is created that blocks the cold attic. To do this, a vapor barrier film is fixed from the bottom, which protects the insulation from moisture penetration from the lower room.
When you are doing rigid insulation on the floor, as with film, it is advisable to use special reinforced laminates made of polyethylene or polypropylene, as they are stronger and more firmly fixed.
It is best that the protective layer is solid.
However, the construction of a wooden attic does not always allow this. If for some reason you can't place a vapor barrier under the beams, the film is placed between the two c's overlapping them and attached with special adhesive tape to ensure a tight seal.
A wooden attic device allows the risk of damage to load-bearing structures due to decay.
Therefore, before the furnace is a cold attic, wooden beams and strips are impregnated with special solutions that prevent the formation of rot and mold.
Then the roof of the attic is insulated on the beams, for which heat-insulating material is placed between them.
If you are using loose insulation, it should be carefully leveled and tracked to fill in any gaps.
The minimum thickness of thermal insulation for attic insulation on wooden floor, calculated according to the above formula, may be greater than the width of the bearing supports. In this case, the correct size is attached to you.
Then another layer of insulation is laid between them with the obligatory covering of the joints of the previous layer.
The fact is that they are formed by the so-called cold bridges, in connection with which it loses heat loss in the house.
Mansardi timber beams usually work with floor decks of conventional processed folded crate panels or cross beams.
However, thick plywood, chipboard, MDF, and other similar materials can also be used as a finish.
If you want to use the leveling screed as a finishing coat, the cold attic watertightness above the insulating layer is required.
Heated attic over reinforced concrete slab
If you need to perform attic insulation over reinforced concrete slabs, you can do it in two ways: with or without a box.
The first method is universal, but most often used for light types of insulation.
In the attic in the attic in this case you will see:
- Vapor barrier steam is carried out in a cool attic, which should cover the entire layer of insulation even on the sides.
Since the vapor barrier should be easy to lay on the floor, no special materials need to be used for this purpose—an inexpensive plastic sheeting will usually be made.
- At the top of the film, a wooden stick with a width equal to half the required thickness is placed on the narrow side, which should have a cold attic heater.
The distance between the rods is usually equal to the width of the cylinder or panel of the selected insulation brand.
- Among the boards there is a heater for the attic. If the thickness requires more layers of thermal insulation material, it is laid by overlapping the joints of the previous layer.
- They are completely identical to the already installed sticks. at the same distance from each other. Between them is a second layer of thermal insulation in the attic.
- Cool attic waterproofing waterproofing installed on top.
which is fixed either with a special adhesive tape or a thin stick adapted along the box. This level can be lowered if a high-quality waterproofing of a cold corrugated roof has already been completed.
- Sex lanes or traffic bridges are tied through sticks.
Since it is very important that the ceiling under a cold roof is sufficiently insulated to save on heating the house, I recommend using upper system thermal insulation.
This decking minimizes the possibility of cold bridging across the wood studs as most of them will be insulated by the heater.
Another method of heating a cold attic of reinforced concrete slabs without the use of boxes is suitable in cases where they are used for thermal insulation of hard, wet insulation that is resistant to heavy loads without loss of property.
Diagram of a pressure block on a reinforced concrete block
In this case, the first section is in the attic.
Then the insulation of the plates of the attic plates is completed with a layer of thermal insulation of the calculated thickness.
A leveling screed is poured onto it. Estrich is already covering the ground floor.
If the insulation of the concrete attic is made of aerated concrete and of similar density and material properties, it is possible to refuse hydro and vapor barrier and screed.
Attic heater: which one to choose?
Before insulating the attic roof, you must remove the thermal insulation material that matches your enclosure.
Unfortunately, universal variant no, it's better to insulate the attic. This choice depends on a number of factors, the most important of which are:
- Thermal insulation properties of the material;
- Fire safety;
- Expenses;
- Easy to install;
- Environmental compatibility;
- hygroscopicity;
- Power;
- Resistant to burning, temperature, acid and alkali.
You need to decide which of these factors is most important to you and which you can ignore.
Heating the ground floor of a cool attic with mineral wool
Mineral wool is one of the most popular floor insulation materials.
The best features of home attic insulation are varieties based on basalt fibers called rock (basalt) cotton.
Basalt fiber insulation belongs to the class of non-combustible materials with a melting point above 1000 ° C; and has excellent thermal insulation properties.
Heating the attic on wooden beams - 5 levels of work on the thermal insulation of the ceiling
However, it easily absorbs moisture, so the requirements for hydro and vapor barrier are especially high in use.
Drain in two layers of mineral wool between the heat of the attic
The heating of the overlay layer with mineral wool is best done with rollers, since the joints between the plates are not strong, but they reduce the effectiveness of thermal insulation. If you want to stack it, you need to close the beams close or aim it but not disturb the interference.
Installing mineral wool is very easy, which is why this insulation material is most often chosen when they want to insulate the attic with their own hands without the help of experts.
During work, do not forget to use personal protective equipment: thick rubber gloves, goggles and clothes that cover the entire body. For people who are prone to allergies, this kit should be supplemented with a respirator.
- Fire safety;
- Environmental compatibility;
- Ease of use;
- Relatively low price.
flaws:
- Possibility of forming fillings, good wrinkles;
- Hygroscopicity.
Insulation of the lower part of the attic with foam
However, all its advantages overlap with one drawback - this material is a fire hazard.
Already at a temperature of 80 ° C; the polystyrene melts, releasing a huge amount of harmful substances and at a temperature of 210 ° C; there is fire. Therefore, insulating an attic over styrofoam carriers is not a good idea. However, it can be used in non-combustible materials, such as when they are laid on concrete block by casting in the form of concrete.
flaws:
- nausea;
- Very flammable;
- It is already deformed at 60°C;
- This is an excellent mosquito shelter.
Heated attic with expanded polystyrene foam
However, insulating a wood floor slab is not recommended.
Despite the fact that open ignition of this heat-insulating material occurs at a sufficiently high temperature, a fire is still dangerous. Firstly, extruded polystyrene supports combustion, and secondly, it releases very corrosive and toxic substances by heating at very low temperatures, in most cases causing death in a fire. Therefore, penoplex is far from the best option than insulating the attic of a house, although it is reinforced.
- High thermal insulation properties;
- Humidity resistance;
- Resistant to decay;
- high density;
- A light weight.
flaws:
- When heated above 80 ° C; it begins to release toxic substances;
- Fire;
- Deforms when heated.
Heating the attic of the house with polyurethane foam
flaws:
Heated ceiling of a cool attic with sawdust
Previously, due to the lack of other materials, insulating a cold roof with sawdust was a widespread phenomenon.
Now this method of thermal insulation is used by those who love environmental compatibility. In this case, despite popular belief, attic design using such a heater is not at all cheap. The sawdust is not stacked “dry”, but in a special solution, the production of which requires money and a lot of time.
The structure of the sawdust solution for cold attic insulation is as follows:
- 10 tablespoons (wood is needed, which is formed when cutting and processing wood, furniture dust is too small for this purpose);
- 1 bucket of hydrated lime (thrusters);
- 1 bucket of cement;
- 5-10 pieces of water with an antiseptic.
for example, with boric acid, soap or copper dome (gradually overflows with the supply vessel, the final amount depends on the size of the sawdust).
The resulting mixture is placed on a substrate between the beams and wrapped. The thickness of the layer of such insulation for the attic ceiling should be at least 300 mm, but it is better to do more, because the thermal insulation properties of sawdust can vary greatly. On top of such a heater covering the attic, bridges are installed for movement, which can be used as leaves of chipboard or thick plywood.
- Comparative cheap;
- Environmental compatibility;
- Good thermal insulation properties.
flaws:
- Intensive independent production;
- The thickness of the attic is great;
- Complicated installation;
- Differences in thermal insulation properties depending on the composition.
Thermal insulation of the lower part of the attic with expanded clay
Another relatively cheap material that can be used to insulate an attic in a private house is expanded clay.
It is made of baked clay and is one of the most environmentally friendly building materials. In addition, expanded clay has good thermal insulation properties, is stable, durable and inert to acids and alkalis.
With expanded clay it is possible to insulate the reinforced concrete and wood floor of the attic. But in the latter case, the calculation of the carrying capacity of carriers must be carefully weighed, since expanded clay insulation weighs much more than modern isolates.
Concrete floor slabs simply carry very high loads, so they can be used without additional calculations.
Thermal insulation layer of expanded clay, covered between the roof beams of the attic
If wooden loft the house is insulated, the bar is first made at the top of the beams, and only then the thermal insulation is poured.
Spread the clay in a layer of 250-300 mm and carefully align. Then it is covered with floor boards.
If you are insulating concrete attic floors, waterproofing the roofing with filler or coating materials, then the expanded clay is mixed with cement and filled with a layer of 350-400 mm.
- Environmentally friendly material;
- Good thermal insulation properties;
- Fire;
- Resistant to acids and alkalis;
- Not subject to decay;
- constant;
- Low cost.
On the pages of materials: http://oprofnastile.ru
During the cold season, 25 to 40% of heat is lost in a heated room. In order not to heat the streets in the future, on initial stage construction, it is necessary to decide how to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof.
An insulated ceiling performs three important functions:
- According to its composition, the insulating material is a sound insulator.
He is a good supporter.
- In the cold season, the insulation material keeps the heat in the room.
- In summer, the heater creates a heat-insulating effect without entering the hot air.
With development construction technologies, new materials, tips and methods for making ceiling insulation in the house. To choose the right material based on your budget and stacking difficulty, consider several options.
If you choose an insulating material, you must consider some properties:
- Thermal conductivity.
- Water resistance.
- material security.
- Durability of operations.
The following materials are widely used to insulate the ceiling and attic:
- mineral wool;
- sawdust;
- expanded polystyrene;
- polyurethane foam.
Previously, straw or hay was used instead of these heaters.
Some craftsmen still use them, but insulation requires adherence to installation technology.
Ceiling insulation is lightweight and does not overload the roof structure.
Mineral wool insulation material
Mineral wool is the leader among all materials that isolate the ceiling.
It is used for heating inside the house and the attic, according to the data, which is excellent for this.
glass wool
This insulation is made of molten high temperature glass with fine fiber extraction.
In addition, a continuous foil and roll to roll is formed. Glass wool in its properties has a weak thermal conductivity, such as basalt insulation, but there are much more casting. It is commonly used for attic insulation.
To install glass wool, we only need the interior of the attic, so it is undesirable in the rooms.
Polyurethane foam
This material is used when spraying, special equipment is needed for polyurethane foam insulation.
If necessary, it can be dispersed in several layers, so it is often used in the northern regions. When sprayed, the polyurethane foam fills the entire space and forms a tight sealed cover without stitches.
After choosing the insulation material, you can continue with the main task - how to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof.
Also read: How to insulate the floor in the attic
Ceiling insulation from the inside
You can do this in two ways:
- Gluing on ceiling tiles for thermal insulation and fixing with special clamps.
- Making a special container made of wood or metal on the ceiling and laying insulating material between the rails.
If you want to warm up any variation, you need to do some prep work or the insulation won't have the desired effect.
Ceiling preparation
The installation of the ceiling depends on the material from which it is made.
Wooden ceiling requires the following parts:
- The entire surface of the ceiling must be cleaned with an antiseptic with refractory material.
Cover wooden surface antiseptic to slowly process each slot.
- Then you need to fix all the cracks. If there are large cracks between the plates, they can be sealed with whales, but it is better to use foam, and when the foam has hardened, the excess part is cut with a knife.
concrete ceiling
The concrete ceiling is prepared in different ways:
- If the ceiling has decorative elements, they should be removed and the plaster that can be cleaned should be cleaned.
- Cracks in the surface must be widened, thoroughly cleaned of dust and prepared.
- Small gaps can be closed with liquid cement mortar or sealant.
We heat the attic over wooden beams
Large cracks should be sealed with foam. After hardening, the foam is leveled according to the level of the entire surface.
- The ceiling is covered with a base for internal works designed for use on concrete surfaces.
After complete drying, installation work on the insulation should begin.
Installation with glue
For heating with this method, all materials made in the form of plates will be made different sizes. It can be basalt wool, expanded polystyrene, expanded polystyrene.
As an adhesive, a cement-based mortar, as well as a prefabricated foam, should be used.
The adhesive on which the cement is based is prepared according to the recipe on the package.
Attention should be paid to the specific drying time, as this affects the amount of mortar required for mixing.
If you choose prefabricated foam, apply it to the heater with a special gun.
The panel with the adhesive attached should be pressed against the ceiling and held for about a minute.
After installing a few squares of the heater, there are holes in the ceiling designed to attach the mushroom, to which the spacer nail is later launched. If there are gaps between the plates, they must be carefully filled with mounting foam. The installation of a basalt wool heater is carried out in a similar way.
This method is carried out under suspended ceilings.
Mounting between rails
Thermal insulation with a container is used if the drywall or lining will be covered by the ceiling.
You must first place marks on the ceiling to discard the lines where the container parts will be attached.
They should be located at a distance corresponding to the width of the insulation.
The wooden frame is fixed to the ceiling with screws. The metal profile is fixed with special springs that allow the hopper to lower to the required distance from the ceiling.
Then you need to install insulation. The wooden rods are built by the enemy.
The mineral wool itself is well distributed and has, and it can also be grabbed from hanging shelves.
The styrofoam is installed very carefully, as it can interrupt the panel with a good load.
If there are gaps between the box and the foam after the heater is installed, they must be filled with pre-assembled foam.
After installing the insulation, the ceiling must be covered with a vapor barrier film. On wooden frame it is fastened with staples or staplers and on metal profile- using double-sided construction tape.
The stretched vapor barrier film is finally covered with plasterboard or underlay sheets.
The hybrid plates are attached to guide screws with a 150mm pitch. The seams between them are reinforced with mesh and applied to the coating layer. After drying the joints, you can fill the entire surface of the ceiling, and then finish the finishing work.
In order not to heat a cold attic in winter, you need to insulate the attic floor of the room. Do not heat the attic if it is not used for its intended purpose.
In order to solve this issue, you need to think about how to insulate the attic with the help of modern building materials. The process can take place both from the inside of the room and from the outside. Warming is carried out in the process of complex repair before final finishing.
Even if the attic was not insulated during construction, you can always address this issue and carry out additional work.
Peculiarities
Most of warm air masses escape through the roof. Therefore, when building a house with an uninsulated attic, you need to carefully approach the topic of insulating an attic floor with wooden beams. After all, it creates a certain barrier between warm rooms and a cold attic.
Consider the special criteria for attic thermal insulation that affect the preservation of temperature in the house:
- The purpose of the room. The attic is a kind of buffer between environment and living rooms. Its task is to regulate the temperature difference between the external environment and the house.
- Temperature regime. In any season and any day, the temperature of the air masses in the attic will always be higher than outside the window. That is why it is very cold in the attic in winter, and unbearably hot and stuffy in summer.
- Heat loss in winter. The more a substance is heated, the less dense it becomes. This is a physical phenomenon. That is why in residential premises with a heating system, warm air from household appliances is concentrated in the ceiling area. That is, if you do not insulate the ceiling, then in winter all the warm air will warm the attic.
- Too much heat in summer. In summer, the reverse process can be observed. The roof heated by the rays of the sun will heat the attic air, which, in turn, will penetrate into the room through the attic floors.
- Reverse circulation of air masses. In contact with the ceiling without thermal insulation, warm air becomes colder, denser and, as a result, descends to the floor. This is reflected in the living room in the form of walking drafts, which are harmful to human health.
- The appearance of excess moisture. In contact with an uninsulated attic, humid hot air turns into condensate. The overall level of humidity in the house increases, which leads to the formation of mold pockets in the corners.
- Saving. The heat that has gone through the roof without insulation is about 30%. This means that with proper attic insulation, you can save 30% of the fuel used. The use of air conditioning in the summer will also be associated with lower costs.
The ingress of warm air masses into a technical attic (non-residential) leads to negative consequences:
- Due to the mixing of warm and cold masses, condensation may appear in the attic. Water entering the surface can lead to wood decay processes on the supporting beams.
- If it is warm in the attic, then the snow that has collected on the roof will begin to melt. The water dripping at the same time will begin to turn into icicles. Frost forms on the drainage system.
materials
In order to choose the right type of insulation for the ceiling, you need to know several factors. The heat insulator must not only have a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, but also have certain properties:
- Resistance to moisture and mechanical influences. The seal must not change its shape under mechanical stress. Its qualities must remain unchanged, even when wet.
- Thermal stability. The material must not burn and support combustion. High temperatures should not have a destructive effect on it.
- Light weight. To create a protective thermal frame, you need to select materials with low weight. Then the attic floors will not be subjected to mechanical stress.
- The ability to pass steam. Living quarters should have an acceptable temperature and a normal level of humidity. To ensure this, you need to choose only vapor-permeable finishing materials.
- Environmental factors. The heat insulator must comply with all sanitary and hygienic standards. Hypoallergenicity and chemical neutrality are the main requirements for the material. And also it should not contain toxic substances and volatile compounds.
- mineral base. Heaters should not contain organic compounds, their basis should be made of polymers. This will prevent mold and prevent mice from chewing on them.
Based on the foregoing, in order to insulate attic wooden structures, there are several popular types of heaters:
mineral insulation
Mineral wool is produced in two types - rolled and in mats. It is produced by melting rocks at very high temperatures. Basalt wool is the most suitable for attic insulation. It combines all the properties of a heat insulator. Mineral wool is quite light and brittle. To protect it from mechanical impact (push, crush), a wooden flooring is laid on top of the insulation.
by the most the best view insulation for these purposes will be a hard mat of high density, reinforced on one side with foil. It is laid down with foil. At the same time, it provides reflection of heat and has a vapor barrier.
glass wool
The production technology of the material is very similar to the production of basalt wool. But molten glass is taken as the main component. It has good spring properties. But at the same time there is fragility in it. Under mechanical stress, it breaks. Glass wool is cheaper than mineral insulation, so it is suitable for those who are on a budget.
But it must be taken into account that when moisture enters, its thermal insulation properties deteriorate. It is harmful to humans, as small glass pieces injure the skin and can lead to irritation.
Loose insulation
Expanded clay is rounded brown pebbles. They are made from certain types of red clay, which is sintered at a very high temperature. Expanded clay has a very low coefficient of thermal conductivity, since its structure consists of closed spheres. Each pebble is protected from moisture by the fact that there is a dense clay layer on its surface. Small pebbles of expanded clay are able to fill themselves hard-to-reach places, hidden cavities in load-bearing wooden elements.
This natural mineral thermal insulator does not burn, does not contain harmful substances, does not start mold, and rodents do not like it.
Styrofoam sheets
A heat insulator with a polymer structure is produced by sintering small spherical granules. His standard size 100x100 cm. The thickness ranges from 1 to 15 cm. Styrofoam is one of the affordable and cheap insulation. But at the same time it has the lowest coefficient of thermal conductivity. Since it consists of polymers, there is no organic matter in its composition. This means that it is moisture resistant, does not rot, and mold does not form in it. The heat insulator is not affected by fire, but at elevated temperatures it begins to exude toxic emissions and there is a risk of high smoke. The disadvantages of polystyrene include the fact that, due to its closed structure, it does not let water vapor through at all.
Expanded polystyrene boards obtained by extrusion
In terms of the composition of the substances, they are the same as the foam, but the methods of their manufacture are radically different. Expanded polystyrene is obtained by hot extrusion, when a prepared polymer mixture is passed through a special apparatus. The specific density of the material is higher than that of the foam, its structure is porous and uniform. This leads to higher thermal conductivity. The insulation is strong and can withstand a large weight load.
PE foam with reflective foil
The construction name of the material is penofol. This is a roll-shaped insulation made of foamed polyethylene, covered with foil. It can be combined with other types of heat insulators, as it itself has a limited scope. The structure of closed pores gives a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. Air, liquid, water vapor does not pass through polyethylene. Therefore, penofol is a good waterproofing agent. The foil plays the role of a reflector, that is, it returns heat back to living room. Its thickness is from 3 to 15 mm.
Chip sawdust for reinforced concrete slab
First of all, it is availability and cheapness. They go as a heater for ceilings in sheds, baths, outbuildings. The method of application is the coating of wooden attic structures with a mixture of clay and sawdust. The method, though primitive, but effective. Sawdust can be bought at the sawmill. Clay is also available. Mixing the solution is not difficult. At a small specific gravity the mixture is very hard, especially after complete drying. Therefore, it does not load wooden floors. The material is vapor-permeable, but mold bacteria can develop due to sawdust, and rodents love to spoil this type of insulation.
Most often, the insulation of a concrete structure occurs with mineral slab, mineral wool, chopped straw and sawdust concrete.
Scheme of work
First you need to prepare heat-insulating materials and tools:
- hammer;
- hacksaw;
- planer, chisels;
- drill and screwdriver;
- construction stapler;
- ruler, tape measure;
- ladder;
- wooden bars and boards;
- vapor barrier;
- finishing material.
Decide which insulation will be used:
- mineral wool;
- expanded polystyrene;
- sawdust;
- penofol;
- glass wool;
- Styrofoam;
- expanded clay.
Then you should carry out the installation work.
Mounting technology
Depending on the choice of insulation, the installation method also differs.
mineral insulation
Cotton wool is laid in three ways: cells, grooves and a continuous layer. The choice depends on the degree of load. The most best design obtained from a continuous layer. First you need to lay the vapor barrier film. It removes water vapor, which is directed from the room to the attic. The film is laid strictly in accordance with the marking, overlapping. Wooden structures must be tightly covered with foil, otherwise they will rot.
At the second stage, cotton wool is laid. This is a simple procedure, the insulation is cut into strips. When laying, you need to ensure that the insulation does not wrinkle, and there are no gaps between the sheets.
Attic floors must be waterproofed. Then lay the rough coating, which will subsequently be the basis for the finish.
Styrofoam or extruded polystyrene foam
Laying hard insulation is quite simple. First you need to level the base, remove bumps, differences on the floor. Lay a cement-sand screed. Sheets are stacked between the bars. If no one will live in the attic, then the insulation must be covered with plastic wrap. And if the floor will be used, then you need to put on the foam OSB boards or fill with a cement mortar screed.
According to science, an attic is a space limited by the slopes of the roof and the upper ceiling of the last floor. This space is residential, and in this case is called an attic, and the word "attic" is applied to non-residential premises. Read about attic insulation.
The attic separates the attic from the living quarters, which, with reliable thermal insulation, will protect the upper floor from cold in winter, spring and autumn, and from heat in summer. However, this is not possible without reliable thermal insulation.
To insulate the attic floor, PENOPLEX SPb LLC recommends high-quality PENOPLEX ® boards, as they say in sports, "for a clear advantage."
Advantages of PENOPLEX ® thermal insulation in relation to the insulation of attic floors
- Thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.034 W/m∙K
- Zero water absorption
- Environmental friendliness and safety
- Ease of installation
- Durability not less than 50 years
This is the main indicator for insulation. The lower it is, the better material keeps warm. In PENOPLEX ® it is one of the lowest - a quarter less than that of mineral wool and polystyrene, 4 times less than that of expanded clay gravel.
The second most important thermal parameter. The better the insulation absorbs water, the faster it loses its qualities.
Due to the zero water absorption of PENOPLEX ®, its heat-shielding properties are preserved throughout the entire service life, there is no need to protect it from rain and snow during storage, and the growth of fungus and mold is prevented.
Many are mistaken, believing that materials obtained by chemical synthesis have nothing to do with environmental friendliness. But why, then, from synthetic raw materials for the manufacture of PENOPLEX ® boards - polystyrene general purpose- also make children's toys, egg packaging, yogurt jars and disposable tableware from which we eat at picnics?!
Moreover, some thermal insulation materials made from natural raw materials contain other components that are by no means safe for health. PENOPLEX ® does not contain fine fibers, dust, soot, slag, phenol-formaldehyde resins; freon is not used in its manufacture. When working with PENOPLEX ® there is no need to protect the respiratory system.
Installation is not only safe, but also convenient. PENOPLEX ® boards are easy to cut and cut simple tools- an ordinary knife. The dimensions of the plates are convenient, as well as the L-shaped edge along all edges, which also allows you to lay thermal insulation without “cold bridges”.
Plates PENOPLEX ® are tested in the truest sense of the word. The endurance tests consisted of 90 load cycles on product samples, each equivalent to a year of operation in harsh conditions. One such cycle included first freezing to –40°С, then heating to +40°С, then freezing again to –40°С and immersion in water. Having done these 90 cycles with PENOPLEX ® slabs, the scientists of the Research Institute of Building Physics, who conducted the tests, did not find any noticeable changes in thermal characteristics. Which is fixed in . With a margin, the material was assigned a service life of at least 50 years.
Types of attic floors
Recall that it is customary to call the attic floor the entire structure (“pie”) from the base to the floor finish. In private housing construction, attic floors with reinforced concrete and wooden bases are most common.
General and different
As a reinforced concrete base, hollow core slabs or a monolithic floor are most often used, and logs are used as a wooden one. These designs are shown in the diagrams below. There are commonalities and differences between them. As usual, the general is the principle, and the differences are in the details.
The design principle of any attic floor is simple: "the base of the floor - insulation - floor finish." The presence of a vapor barrier under the insulation can also be considered common, which, however, is not particularly relevant for PENOPLEX ® thermal insulation with its low vapor permeability. The vapor barrier is designed to protect the insulation from the natural flow of water vapor from the premises, where there are more of them than on the street due to more high temperature indoors during the cold season, people breathing, cooking, etc.
Please note that in most cases two layers of insulation are required. According to the calculation of the required thicknesses of PENOPLEX ® thermal insulation (see table below), in Russia, the attic floor insulation layer should be more than 100 mm, with the exception of the regions of the Southern and North Caucasian federal districts. The greatest thickness in the range of slabs recommended for insulation of attic floors is just 100 mm.
The differences between attic floor structures with wooden and reinforced concrete bases lie in the materials and designs of the finish coatings, as well as in other layers located between the three main structural elements gender.
Finish coat
As for the finish coating, when arranging the attic, aesthetic tasks are not set, everything is dictated by practical necessity, and options are chosen without frills. In addition, in construction, there is a practice of matching the finishing coating to the base according to the laying method: “wet” and “dry”. Therefore, with a reinforced concrete base, to which a leveling screed is laid, laid by pouring a wet mortar, a concrete floor is usually used. For a structure based on dry wooden logs, a sheet finish coating is used: gypsum-fiber sheet, cement-bonded particle boards, etc. If the attic does not carry serious permanent loads (they rarely go there, they don’t store heavy objects), then you can save money and do without a finish coat.
Attic floor with wooden joists at the base (classic design)
The classic attic flooring along the joists involves filling the space between them.
Attic floor with wooden joists at the base (optimized design)
Compared with the classic design, this option allows you to significantly simplify installation. Suitable for those for whom it is important to reduce construction time and uncritically reduce the height of the attic space.
Attic floor with reinforced concrete base
In a structure with a reinforced concrete base, the insulation is located between two screeds (concrete and cement-sand), which are separated from it by layers of polyethylene, which acts as a vapor barrier. Upper layer of this material also serves to prevent the ingress of "cement milk" on the insulation during the solidification of the solution.
How to install and insulate an attic floor
Installation of an attic floor on a base of wooden logs: a classic version
Installation of vapor barrier. In the classical design, first, a vapor barrier layer of polyethylene is attached to the lags from below using construction stapler. Moreover, to ensure the tightness of the stapler staples, it is necessary to drive them through a butyl rubber tape, previously glued to the logs.
Installation of sheet flooring for insulation. Fasten with nails or screws.
Heater installation. PENOPLEX COMFORT ® slabs are laid in the space between the joists, which are cut and cut using ordinary knife in accordance with the size and configuration of the given space. The joints of the plates with lags and with each other are sealed with one-component polyurethane compounds, which are recommended to be used or, which has a lower secondary expansion.
Installation of the finish coat. If PENOPLEX ® is additionally mounted in a continuous layer over the floor beams, the finish coating is usually laid without fastening: sheet material supported by its own weight. In an exploited attic, it is recommended to carry out a finish coat of two layers of GVL in overlapping joints.
Installation of an attic floor on a base of wooden logs: an optimized option
Installation of a sheet flooring under a heater: from above, on logs. Fasten with nails or screws.
Installation of vapor barrier. Fix from above on a sheet flooring.
Heater installation. PENOPLEX COMFORT ® slabs are laid on the flooring in the same way as in the classical design, using the same means.
Installation of the finish coat. Just like in the classical design.
Installation of an attic floor with a reinforced concrete base
Leveling the surface of the base plate. It is carried out using a cement-sand screed. Local irregularities should be no more than 5 mm.
Polyethylene vapor barrier.
Installation of PENOPLEX COMFORT ® thermal insulation: the same as in the optimized variant of overlapping along the logs.
Laying a separating layer made of polyethylene.
Finishing coat installation cement-sand screed. A gap of 10-20 mm is required between the screed and the wall, taking into account thermal expansion. The gap is filled with mounting foam - it is recommended to use PENOPLEX ® FASTFIX ® mounting foam. As for a floor with a base of wooden logs, in the case of an exploited attic, instead of a screed, it is possible to perform a finish coating of two layers of GVL in overlapping joints.
As already mentioned, in the absence of loads on the attic floor, there is no need to top coat, and, accordingly, the separating layer.
Required thickness of PENOPLEX ® slabs for insulation of the attic floor
|
Cities |
Thickness "PENOPLEX" |
|---|---|
|
Arkhangelsk |
|
|
Astrakhan |
|
|
Belgorod |
|
|
Blagoveshchensk |
|
|
Velikiy Novgorod |
|
|
Vladivostok |
|
|
Vladikavkaz |
|
|
Vladimir |
|
|
Volgograd |
|
|
Ekaterinburg |
|
|
Yoshkar-Ola |
|
|
Kaliningrad |
|
|
Kemerovo |
|
|
Kostroma |
|
|
Krasnodar |
|
|
Krasnoyarsk |
|
|
Makhachkala |
|
|
Murmansk |
|
|
Nizhny Novgorod |
|
|
Novosibirsk |
|
|
Orenburg |
|
|
Petrozavodsk |
|
|
Petropavlovsk - Kamchatsky |
|
|
Rostov-on-Don |
|
|
Salekhard |
|
|
Saint Petersburg |
|
|
Smolensk |
|
|
Stavropol |
|
|
Syktyvkar |
|
|
Ulyanovsk |
|
|
Khabarovsk |
|
|
Cheboksary |
|
|
Chelyabinsk |
|
|
Cherkessk |
|
|
Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk |
|
|
Yaroslavl |
