Dampness in the basement is perceived by many as a prerequisite, but this is a delusion. The basement should be cool, but not damp. And if during the construction it is possible to foresee and prevent dampness, then in order to remove dampness after the Nth amount of time the basement has been used, you will have to try. One thing pleases: there is nothing impossible in this and it is not envisaged, all the work is feasible, relatively not expensive, and all of them are completed quickly enough.
Why dampness occurs
Excess moisture in the basement - this phenomenon can occur for various reasons. The most common of them:
- Moisture absorption by walls or floors.
- Insufficient basement ventilation.
- The passage of moisture into the room due to cracks in the walls, ceiling or at the junctions of walls and ceiling.
Establishing one or sometimes several causes is how to properly diagnose a disease for a person. Then the treatment will be successful, and it will take much less time than rushing late.
Walls absorb moisture from the ground
If waterproofing was not provided for during the construction of the basement, only a large thickness of the wall will save you. Miscellaneous materials have different hygroscopicity, that is, the ability to absorb moisture into themselves. For example, brick is more hygroscopic than cinder block.
Two options can serve as salvation: if the humidity is not very high, then improving ventilation will dot the “i”, and with high humidity, internal waterproofing of walls or floors saves. We will talk about ventilation in the next section, but now we will learn how to waterproof walls or floors in basements.
Few ways:
- Building new walls
- Waterproofing with mastics or waterproofing compounds.
The first way, let it not seem wild to you. It's pretty old way, which cannot be called ideal, but it is quite considered as an option. The bottom line is the construction of new walls at a small distance from the old ones - about 2-3 cm. Only with such an arrangement, it is necessary to think about ventilation from the new inter-wall space.
Waterproofing various materials also solves the problem. Bitumen-based mastics are able to keep moisture out. Preliminary cleaning of the walls and forward, you can apply.
Only both methods will not allow moisture to penetrate into the basement, but leave the wall material wet. Sometimes this is fraught with the destruction of the brick.
Poor ventilation or lack of it
If the basement is damp and you don’t know what to do, then ventilation will solve the problem and you don’t even have to use the first method. It just needs to be organized. For basements, it is customary to consider ventilation of high quality if it is a supply and exhaust. In the basement, two pipes leading outside are mounted in opposite corners. Only one pipe is flush with the ceiling, and the second almost touches the floor with its lower edge. In this case, the air circulation will be continuous and the problem of dampness will be solved for sure. There are only two nuances:
- Obligatory peaks on pipes, otherwise the first thunderstorm will force you to go into the basement in fishing boots.
- Pipe diameter plays a role. For better circulation you need larger diameter pipes, but winter time there is a risk negative temperature in the basement.
cracks
When the basement is old and even your grandmother does not remember it, but not because of sclerosis, then cracks in it are already a pattern. Careful sealing of such passages for moisture is a quick and easy job. Cement-sand mortar, putty or even mounting foam for large gaps - these are the most available materials and a simple algorithm of actions.
Instead of a conclusion
Dampness in the basement is unpleasant and undesirable. It is only better to think about it at the beginning of the construction of the basement than after. But even if this happened, then you should not be especially upset, because everything can be solved. Determine the cause and choose a solution. Perhaps you know others effective ways eliminate dampness - then welcome to the comments below.
Dampness in the cellar is a huge problem for most summer residents and suburban residents. As a rule, humidity rises due to poor-quality thermal or waterproofing, as well as due to the large amount of fruits and vegetables stored indoors. In some cases, condensation forms due to the lack of a ventilation system. Whatever the reason, a wet cellar is in no way suitable for storing food in it, which, with constant exposure to moisture, will quickly deteriorate. That is why moisture must be removed and completely eliminated from such a phenomenon as condensate. We will talk today about how to dry the cellar and properly prepare it for laying the crop.
Carrying out preparatory work
Humidity in the cellar, as a rule, is at a sufficient high level, so condensation forms on the walls and ceiling. Preparatory work include complete release premises from vegetables stored there since last year (they are no longer suitable for consumption, so it is best to remove them from storage).
In addition, it is recommended to temporarily get rid of the wooden elements of the room (racks, pallets, various bins, boxes, shelves, etc.). All wooden structures take it outside and then rinse hot water And soapy water. Before further use they must be completely dry.
Before dehumidifying the air in the storage, all supplies and products from there should be taken out.
Fairly common and effective method disinfection of the wooden elements of the storage - applying a layer of whitewash with the addition of ordinary blue vitriol. As a whitewash, as a rule, ordinary lime acts, which can be found on sale in any store. Humidity and condensation in this case will not affect the wood.
In addition, in order to protect wooden elements from mold and fungus, it is necessary to apply antiseptic impregnation on them. You can use any composition sold in the store.
The walls and ceiling of the vault can also be whitewashed and dried later. Otherwise, due to increased dampness indoors, it will not be possible to keep the crop in the proper form. In the fall, when it rains continuously, it will not be possible to dry the cellar efficiently, so all work should be carried out in the summer.
How is storage drying?
In order to get rid of excess moisture in the cellar, it's not enough just to open everything ventilation holes and manhole cover. In the cellar, the air will systematically cool down, and the moisture from it will condense, so it will not work to dry the underground room with ordinary ventilation. Humidity and condensate, even after several days of keeping the storage with the hatch open, will not go anywhere. To dry the cellar before the seasonal laying of the crop, more radical methods should be used.
There are several of the most common ways in which the drying of the room is carried out. Humidity and condensation are big problem, but with forced drying, it is quite easy to get rid of them.
So, you can remove excess dampness, humidity and condensate in the following ways:
- Drying the cellar or vegetable store with iron stove.
- Drying basement using a roaster.
- The use of the most common candles, which will improve the natural draft of air.
- The use of special dehumidifiers.
It should be noted that heating the storage with an iron stove is extremely time-consuming and troublesome, so it is recommended to abandon this method immediately. And not everyone has the opportunity to install such a stove in storage. It is better to use the remaining three methods, since it is important to dry the cellar quickly and without unnecessary hassle.
Fast drying with a roaster
You can remove excess air humidity and condensate from the cellar using the simplest brazier. This fixture Not large sizes(portable) is in almost any suburban economy. In any case, you can ask your neighbors.
The brazier quickly heats up the air in the room.
Before drying the cellar with a brazier, it is necessary to partially get rid of excess dampness by natural drying for several days. In this case, the brazier will only “finish off” the remaining dampness, humidity and condensate.
If you did not find a suitable device for drying or a brazier, then you can make it yourself from the simplest old bucket.
The drying process itself is as follows:
- Before drying, we open all the holes that go to the cellar (manhole, ventilation pipes).
- Next, we lower our brazier (bucket) to the bottom of the storage. You can do it yourself or with a rope and a hook.
- We kindle a fire in the brazier. It must be maintained for some time until the damp air completely leaves the room.
- According to the laws of physics, warm and dry air from the bottom of the cellar will gradually rise, displacing damp air into open holes. After some time, the cellar will dry out completely.
The principle of drying the basement using a brazier from an ordinary bucket.
Before drying the cellar in this way, it is necessary to provide for some nuances:
- To ignite the brazier, it is recommended to use sawdust and chips. As soon as the fire breaks out, larger wood can be thrown into the brazier. It is important that the brazier is ignited before you lower it to the bottom of the cellar.
- The heat from the fire will quickly warm up the room, bringing damp air out. In turn, dry air will quickly spread through the cellar. It is necessary that the whole room is saturated with smoke. This will get rid of any biological activity in the storage, which also negatively affects the storage of vegetables and fruits. The effect of heating the air in this case will persist for a long time.
However, the condensate in the cellar does not always disappear immediately after drying, so you need to wait a bit and, if necessary, repeat the event, as well as check the quality of the ventilation system.
Drying the cellar with a candle
If you don't feel like messing around with the brazier, there's an easier way to keep your cellar dry and damp. To do this, you need the most ordinary candle.
The candle must be placed under the exhaust pipe.
A lit candle, placed under the exhaust duct, will increase the air draft, and also allow you to get rid of dampness. It will take much longer to dry the cellar with a candle than with a brazier, but if you have nowhere to rush, then this method can be used without problems.
When using the candle drying method, it is required to increase the length of the ventilation pipe (inlet if two pipes are used). This must be done. Further, a lit candle is installed directly under the inlet of the exhaust pipe. The candle is best placed in a small container (for example, in a jar).
To give a certain impulse, which will become the beginning of air draft, it is necessary in exhaust pipe set fire to the paper. Next, the thrust will be maintained by a candle flame.
It has already been noted above that this is a slow drying method and it can be used if you have enough time. All work on drying the cellar is best done a few days before harvesting, so that the room has time to warm up, dry out and get rid of all biological activity. With the help of a lit candle, you can dry the cellar in 3-4 days. During this time, you will have to change a few candles.
If the cellar is large, then getting rid of dampness and humidity with a candle will not work.
Air dryers
Since it is difficult to dry a large cellar with improvised means, special dehumidifiers are used to effectively get rid of moisture. These devices allow you to dry the room qualitatively, and then maintain the humidity indicator at a normal level. It is advisable to dry the air in the cellar periodically.
Appearance and scheme of operation of the dehumidifier.
Dehumidifiers are especially relevant in the commercial operation of basements and vegetable stores. Modern dehumidifiers are sold in large construction stores, as well as in specialized departments, so there will be no problems with their purchase. For information on how to dry a cellar with a dehumidifier, it is best to ask a sales assistant who will be able to advise a model suitable for your room.
The principle of drying stagnant and damp air in the basement is that moisture always condenses on cold surfaces. The air passing through a conventional dehumidifier is cooled, and the moisture settles in a special receiver, after which it drops into a drip tray. Dehumidifiers work on the principle of cooling the air, not heating it (unlike a brazier and a candle), so the appliance will cool the cellar to some extent. However, on sale you can find such devices that at the outlet will heat the air to its original temperature.
Modern dehumidifiers work on the basis of freon (like refrigerators and air conditioners). The air will enter the dehumidifier with the help of a fan. If your home also has humid air, then a basement dehumidifier is fine for use in other areas of the building as well.
Which method to choose?
You can make the cellar absolutely dry and suitable for storing fruits and vegetables using any of the proposed methods. You should choose one or another method based on the total area of \u200b\u200byour cellar. For example, there is no need to buy an expensive dehumidifier if your cellar does not exceed 2 square meters. m. In this case, the problem of humidity is easily solved with the help of a brazier or a candle.
It will be possible to lower fruits and vegetables into the cellar immediately after all work on drying the premises is completed. It should be noted that it is not recommended to dry the cellar additionally during operation. This approach will negatively affect the quality of stored vegetables.
In order to avoid the need to often dry the cellar, it is necessary to foresee the presence of a high-quality ventilation system in advance. For small cellars, a design of two pipes (supply and exhaust) located at different heights is quite suitable. They will provide continuous replacement of air. If the cellar has a large area, then a device is recommended forced ventilation. In addition, if it is the floor of a dwelling, it will be necessary to make high-quality thermal insulation of the floor. The cold air from the storage should not be allowed to affect the microclimate in the house.
The basement under the house can be used both as a cellar for food and as a utility room. However, the humidity in the basement can nullify all plans. The appearance of moisture usually leads to dampness and mold in the room. And the appearance of puddles on the floor completely makes the basement unusable. In addition, mold and puddles are dangerous for the structures of the house itself.
Causes of moisture in the basement
Before you start an uncompromising fight against dampness, you must first find out why it appeared. There are usually two reasons:
- Penetration of moisture into the basement from the ground.
- its condensation from the air.
From the soil, moisture penetrates into the basement quite easily. Here, both a capillary penetration path, through microscopic pores in the material itself, and a direct ingress of water through cracks in the foundation are possible. It should be noted that microscopic pores have almost all Construction Materials- concrete, brick and wood.
Direct entry of moisture into the basement through cracks in the foundation is the scourge of many old houses. There is a whole range of problems that the owner of the house will have to solve.
When moisture condenses, water droplets appear on the ceiling and walls. The reason is the temperature difference between the air and the walls, floor and ceiling in the basement. Often, condensation is also complicated by capillary penetration of moisture through the walls. Therefore, it is desirable to approach the solution of the problem in a comprehensive manner.
There is one rule that helps to determine for what reason moisture appeared in the basement.
If water drips from the ceiling and collects on the top of the walls, then the problem is the condensation of water droplets from the vapors in the air.
And if water acts as drops along the bottom of the walls and stands in puddles on the floor, then the problem is penetration ground water. Methods for solving these problems are slightly different.
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Moisture condensation on cellar structures
How to remove humidity if it is caused by the temperature difference between the air and basement structures? First of all, you need to understand why the air in the basement suddenly starts to warm up.
Often you can find statements that the cause of condensate in the cellar is warm air, the source of which is the basement. However, the question arises - why does warm air descend into the cellar, because usually only cold air layers move down?
It should be remembered that the proximity to warm layers of air always leads to heating of the underlying cold layers. Thus, even through small gaps in the floor and the door, heat will flow down. The air warms up quickly. For example, it takes 3,000 times less energy to heat 1 m³ of air by 1˚ C than to heat the same amount of water by 1˚.
Heating the air leads to an increase in its specific humidity, since the heated air can contain more water vapor. Water vapor in this case can come both from the ground, through the pores in the basement walls, and from above, from the house, through cracks in the cellar door or holes in the ceiling.
And here the solution to the problem depends on the purpose of the basement. The cellar for food is insulated from above, along the ceiling and the door, and the cellar for personal needs from below, along the walls and floor.
The reason is simple - in the cellar for storing food, a stable low temperature is needed, so the room must be protected from heat influx from above. As a result, the difference in air temperatures and basement structures is destroyed, which allows removing moisture from the cellars.
And for utility rooms better create comfortable temperature, so the best way out is to sheathe the walls with an insulator and insulate the floor. In this case, the basement temperature will rise, but the dew point, that is, the thickness of the partition on which condensation occurs, will be recessed inside the walls. This will help remove moisture from the basement, making it more comfortable for people along the way, bringing its temperature closer to the air temperature in the basement.
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Basement insulation for food storage
In the first case, you need to start with the thermal insulation of the door. It is best to cover it with sheet foam or polystyrene foam. The thickness of the heat insulator must be at least 5 cm. The blocks or sheets are fastened to the door using a special construction adhesive.
On top of the thermal insulation, the door can be upholstered with leatherette or covered with a waterproofing film, which are now many in hardware stores. In addition, the opening should be pasted over with a rubber seal around the entire perimeter to avoid heat leakage. The place where the door jamb connects to the floor must be cleaned of chips and debris, and then filled mounting foam. Then, during the day, the door is not touched so that the foam can completely harden. On next day the foam is trimmed with a knife and covered with plaster.
Thermal insulation of the ceiling for concrete and wooden basement floors is carried out different ways. When concrete floor the following work needs to be done:
- Lubrication of all joints and floor seams cement mixture(may be added to mix liquid glass).
- Sheathing or pasting the ceiling with insulation boards (polystyrene, expanded polystyrene).
- Insulation coating with special plaster.
For a wooden floor, the following work will have to be done:
- The device on the beams and logs of the subfloor overlap (facing the cellar).
- Lining the subfloor from the side of the basement floor with a vapor barrier film.
- Laying bulk insulation(expanded clay, slag, sand).
To arrange a draft floor, you have to open it. However, if there is no desire to perform such a large amount of work, you can simply fix the crate on the floor beams from the side of the cellar, put insulation sheets into it, and then cover everything with a vapor barrier film. To do this, you can use 2.5 cm nails, after placing a rubber square on each nail to seal.
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Basement insulation intended for utility room
Wall cladding in such a basement can be done using sheet insulation, and with the help of sprayed. However, the walls should first be coated with cement milk. This is necessary to close the capillary pores of the material itself. Adding liquid glass to cement will lead to better insulation. Then, sheets of insulation are glued on top or reinforced with crates. Finally, the walls are covered with plaster. For greater decorativeness, you can create false walls by upholstering them with gypsum-fiber sheets (GVL), laying them out with tiles.
Floor insulation is best combined with waterproofing. To do this, the following work is performed on the floor of the basement:
- Laying waterproofing (roofing material with sizing bituminous mastic).
- Filling a layer of insulation in 5-10 cm (expanded clay, slag, sand).
- Laying over insulation sand-cement screed 4-7 cm thick.
These works can be carried out both on top of compacted soil and on top of an existing concrete pavement.
The direct purpose of the cellar is to extend the shelf life of the crop, regardless of the season and weather conditions outside the window. The most important factor responsible for creating an optimal microclimate is the humidity in the cellar. For getting good conditions storage of products, its indicators must be stable and not go beyond the permissible limits.
High humidity in the cellar causes a decrease in the shelf life of products. Casting given parameter to standard values is an important task, the solution of which is necessary for the preservation of the crop.
Influence on the microclimate and standard values
Building a cellar is a rather complex task that requires an integrated approach. When erecting it, it is necessary to take into account a huge number of factors and focus on building codes, otherwise it is unlikely that it will be possible to obtain a high-quality building. The main criteria that affect the safety of food are humidity and temperature. It is these two parameters that are the main ones and must be maintained at a certain level.
According to the regulatory documentation, the optimal conditions in the cellar are:
- humidity within 85-90%;
- temperature around 2-5 degrees.
Such a ratio of the main indicators is the most favorable for extending the shelf life of the crop. At the same time, it must be observed all year round, regardless of external factors. The imbalance instantly affects the microclimate of the room.
Increased humidity in the cellar leads to a shift in the dew point inside the room. At the same time, under normal conditions, it should be outside it. The consequence of this process is the formation of condensate, which covers all surfaces and contributes to the development of dampness. Mold, musty air, food rotting and rack corrosion are just a few of the problems that excess moisture can cause.
An increase in temperature makes the air drier, which also does not bring anything good. A sharp decrease in the level of moisture and an increase in thermal indicators has Negative influence on foods, drying them 2x faster. Therefore, the temperature and humidity in the cellar must be constant, and also be within the limits provided for by the technical documentation.
Causes
Controlling humidity and maintaining it within certain limits is a rather difficult task. It is very easy to break the precarious balance between the main indicators. The slightest flaws in the design or neglect of construction technology affect the characteristics of the room. The greatest influence on the microclimate in the cellar has:
- soil type;
- location;
- waterproofing quality;
- quality of thermal insulation;
- condition of the ventilation system.
High humidity in the cellar may be the result of its construction in unsuitable soil. Each type of soil has its own coefficient of thermal conductivity. The higher its performance, the less the soil can withstand thermal stress. Moreover, such a statement is true not only in relation to an increase in temperature, but also to its decrease. Soil with high conductivity freezes fairly quickly. Cold air reaches the cellar, contributing to a sharp decrease in air temperature in it. Loam and clay are a poor base for building a facility, and sandstone and sandstone are considered good soil for building it.
Imbalance of the main indicators can occur if the cellar is located incorrectly. If the building is not deep enough underground or near water sources. In this case, it will warm up faster in summer and freeze in winter. To neutralize such phenomena, it must be deepened by at least 0.5-1.0 meters. Another option would be to build a cellar directly under residential building. In this case, the heat from its heated part will penetrate through the ceiling, contributing to the dew point mixing.
High humidity in the cellar may be the result of poor waterproofing. During the rainy season, water permeates the ground and, in the absence of a protective layer or its violation, can seep through brickwork inside the premises. At the same time, the amount of moisture that enters the cellar depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe unprotected area and the intensity of washing the walls. This problem can be solved only by applying a waterproofing layer to the outer surface of the object.
The quality of thermal insulation also plays important role for creating optimal conditions in the cellar. If it is located in clay soils, is not deep enough underground, or is equipped directly under the house, then an imbalance between temperature and humidity cannot be avoided. The situation can be corrected only by creating an additional heat-insulating layer, which is mounted on the ceiling or walls.
Condition of the ventilation system
Humidity in the cellar should always be the same. The most significant role in the process of removing excess heated air is played by the condition of the ventilation system. A well-functioning hood is able to level most negative factors that lead to a violation of the microclimate in it. The operation of any ventilation system is based on the natural circulation of air masses, which, when heated, rise up, and after cooling down again to the floor. This property is especially clear in enclosed space which is the cellar.
Important! According to the regulatory documentation, at least 150-180 cubic meters should be supplied through the ventilation system every hour. fresh air. Such an indicator makes it possible not only to remove the humidity in the cellar, but also to partially normalize the temperature regime.
In the process of heating, the air absorbs particles of liquid and rises to the ceiling with them. In this case, the cold air stream descends to the bottom of the room. Thus, the creation of a ventilation system of a supply and exhaust type is carried out on the basis of the difference in air temperature inside the cellar and directly outside it.
Reduce the humidity in the cellar with small area up to 10 sq.m. possible through the use of natural ventilation. The principle of its operation is to organize good air circulation based on physical properties air. The outlet channel is installed near the ceiling, providing the removal of heated moist air masses. The inlet is mounted at the very floor 10-15 cm before its surface. Moreover, both air ducts are located in different ends rooms. This installation scheme allows you to organize excellent air exchange inside the room.
Get rid of high humidity in a cellar with an area of more than 10 sq.m. only possible using forced systems ventilation. The principle of their work is based on the use of special exhaust fans that increase natural air circulation.
To bring the temperature and humidity indicators back to normal, the parameters of the cellar must comply with all necessary standards. The presence of leaks, poor thermal insulation and improper territorial location have a negative impact on the microclimate in the room. Therefore, such problems must be eliminated at the design stage and construction work must be carried out in accordance with the standards specified in SNiP.
Humidity and air temperature are the determining parameters, on the value of which the storage conditions of products depend. At the same time, it is not easy to achieve the optimal ratio between these indicators. The climatic conditions inside the cellar are influenced by a huge number of factors, among which a special place is occupied by the functionality of ventilation.
Humidity in the basement causes many problems for the owner of the house: from an unfavorable microclimate to cracks in the foundation. According to SNIP, the humidity in the basement should not exceed 65-75%. Only then can we talk about a healthy atmosphere, favorable for people and safe for building materials. If on the walls of the basement appear dark spots, condensation accumulates on the floor and walls, and there is a smell of dampness in the air, it is safe to say that you are faced with high humidity in the basement.
The main reasons for the violation of humidity indicators in the basement:
- Poor foundation waterproofing.
The lack of high-quality waterproofing leads to capillary seepage of ground and melt water through concrete base Houses. Detecting problems with waterproofing is simple: all basement walls are equally damp, wet spots always form in different places.
- Cracks in the walls.
Sometimes the humidity in the basement rises due to a violation of the integrity of the base of the house. Cracks appear in the foundation through which water seeps into the house. In this case, dampness always accumulates in the same places. In some cases, cracks are visible to the naked eye.
- Absence effective ventilation premises.
One of the most common causes causing high humidity in the basement. Due to the deep position of the plinth, the absence of slots and air ducts in it, natural ventilation does not provide adequate ventilation. Carbon dioxide accumulates in the basement, the air stagnates, the humidity rises, and condensation occurs due to temperature changes.
- Leaking systems of engineering communications.
If sewerage, hot and cold water supply pipes are located in the basement, it is recommended to check their integrity before removing moisture in the basement. Often a leaking pipeline causes increased humidity.
The consequences of dampness in the basement
Why, when the owner of the house is faced with dampness in the basement, he starts to sound the alarm? What are the consequences of increased humidity basement floors And how dangerous are they?
If the humidity value in the basement rises above that specified in the SNIP, the following occurs:
- Condensation forms on the walls, floor, ceiling.
- Wooden structures, finishes based on paper, chalk, clay begin to absorb excess water from the air, swell, change its structure, after some time decay processes begin, wooden poles lose their strength, turn into dust.
- Gets wet thermal insulation material- the thermal efficiency of the object decreases sharply, the basement begins to freeze and ice in the cold season.
- Are being created favorable conditions for mold growth and pathogen development.
- If agricultural products are stored in the basement, rot and other fruit diseases develop.
- Condensate accumulating on metal surfaces, causes their corrosion, through rust can completely destroy a metal structure in less than a year.
- Water destroys the insulation of the wiring and causes a short circuit, breaking the rules fire safety there is always a risk of fire.
- Due to constant dampness, accelerated destruction of the foundation begins, concrete crumbles, loses its strength and ability to withstand high loads, the house begins to sag, walls bend, cracks can “creep”.
Increased humidity in the basement leads to a significant reduction in the life of the entire house, creates a microclimate that is dangerous for human health. How to deal with it?
How to remove condensation and moisture in the basement?
To cope with moisture in the basement, you should eliminate the cause of its occurrence. Find and repair cracks in the foundation (if water seeps through them), check the internal and external waterproofing, upgrade engineering communications.
The second step is to drain the basement and install effective ventilation. This will protect against rising humidity in the basement in the future. A variety of electrical or liquid fueled equipment is used, such as IR dryers, heat guns. They quickly cope with the task, but without a good forced ventilation device, the humidity in the cellar will rise again in a day.
Therefore, it is necessary to install supply and exhaust ventilation equipment. Usually, the fight against moisture in the basement is carried out after completion construction works when it is not possible to create a high-quality centralized ventilation system that captures all the premises in the house, including the basement. And to reduce costs and simplify installation work, it is recommended to choose a "local" solution: equipment that works only in the basement.
At the same time, air ventilation systems dry the air and ensure its healthy circulation. They work in a specific room, do not require complex connections. The principle of operation of the devices is as follows: the device takes in fresh outdoor air, filters and heats it, then, with the help of a fan, delivers it to the basement. Exhaust gases are discharged through a specially provided outlet.
With all the advantages of such ventilation, it has a drawback - it consumes a large number of electricity. And if the equipment runs on diesel, then it also forms harmful to humans and environment exhaust. An environmentally friendly and cheap alternative is the use of solar-powered appliances.
Fighting high humidity in the basement: effective and inexpensive
Air solar collectors belong to forced ventilation devices and work according to the principle described above. But at the same time they:
- autonomous: do not require connection to the mains,
- environmentally friendly: do not produce harmful emissions,
- economical: in the process of work they do not consume any paid energy resources.
The appliances automatically turn on every time the sun hits the panel and begin to “blow through” the basement, simultaneously draining it. Humidity in the basement is normalized without any additional financial costs on the part of the owner of the house.
