The final chord of a bathroom renovation is the installation of plumbing fixtures. If you wish, it is quite possible to do this part of the work on your own, without turning to plumbers. Install modern toilet much simpler than a Soviet-style product.
From this material you will learn how to properly install a wall-mounted (wall-hung) or floor-standing toilet at home with your own hands, and you will be able to study detailed instructions and an installation training video.
Before starting work, you need to prepare tools and materials. What is needed for installation, besides a new toilet? You will need:
- impact drill or hammer drill;
- drill (the diameter of the drill is selected depending on the diameter of the fasteners);
- if installation is carried out on tiles, use a tile drill;
- hammer;
- chisel;
- screwdrivers;
- set of wrenches;
- adjustable wrench;
- putty knife;
- retractable knife;
- marker or pencil;
- roulette.
It is also very advisable to have safety glasses to protect your eyes from dust.
Additionally you will need:
- silicone sealant with a gun or in a special tube;
- FUM tape or sanitary linen;
- metallized tape;
- stuffing box;
- corrugation;
- tap;
- flexible hose for connecting the tank to the water supply;
- polyethylene film;
bucket and rag; - repair mortar;
- dowels, if they are not provided with the toilet.
Some installation methods require the use of cement mortar.
Suspension
Do-it-yourself installation of a wall-hung (mounted) toilet is carried out within the framework of overhaul, before finishing work begins. The tool kit for installing the device must include a level.
When choosing an installation location, it is important to consider that the shorter the pipe connecting the toilet to the sewer, the better it will be easier to clean in case of a blockage. The toilet is attached only to the main wall, otherwise it simply will not withstand the load.
The first and most important stage of any installation is marking. The installation location of the toilet must be coordinated with the toilet outlet so as to obtain the optimal pipe slope.
Most likely, during the marking process, the frame (installation) will have to be moved several times. Experts advise install the frame so that cistern located about a meter from the floor.
Sewerage and water supply are supplied to the toilet installation site before the frame is installed. Elementary logic dictates that after attaching the frame, any work becomes almost impossible. Before installing the frame, level it using a level. on all planes.
To accurately adjust the position of the frame, its design includes adjustable legs. The frame is attached to the floor using anchor bolts to fix the structure to the wall additional brackets may be required.
Once the frame is installed, the toilet bowl is attached. The recommended height of the bowl is about 40 cm from the floor, however, if this location is inconvenient for you and your family, the height can be selected experimentally.
After this, the walls are finished and the niche is “sealed”. When masking a niche it is important to provide access to the tank in case of emergency situation. The bowl is installed last.
You can watch the installation rules and process of installing a wall-hung (mounted) toilet with your own hands in the video:
Most compatriots, in particular skilled craftsmen, often independently take on the task of repairing a house and its various systems. However, due to certain circumstances, they treat the installation of new plumbing with extreme caution and even disbelief. own strength. And although often for installing a toilet, for example, you have to pay mercenaries an amount equivalent to the cost of the toilet itself, this fact still does not stop them. But in vain, because installing a toilet with your own hands is a very simple task!
Preparing for installation
Of course, it wouldn’t hurt for you to become familiar with a number of specific nuances associated with the installation procedure, but they are so accessible that you can figure them out without any problems. In fact, it turns out that installation, direct installation and connection to common system sewerage systems of all types of bathrooms are practically no different from each other. The only difference can be identified in the connection of some additional functions, coupled with the installation of an automated system.
Different systems consist of similar elements
Of course, any toilet comes with step-by-step instructions for assembling it. There should not be any difficulties during the installation of the drain and fill system. However, close attention must be paid, since its job is to regulate the pressure and volume of water filling the tank.
Check the complete set of the drain tank
Application deserves special attention. This solution is very convenient to use. We will talk about installation in detail in a separate review.
Toilet installation step by step
Let's look at the main pitfalls in the procedure for installing a brand new toilet. We will talk specifically about new residents, that is, our instructions do not imply dismantling the old bathroom. Therefore, be careful.
So, to install the newly purchased toilet yourself, you need to do the following:
This is all! Self-installation the bathroom has come to an end. However, you should not immediately use it for its intended purpose: you must allow the silicone to harden. He does this for 6 hours. By the way, don’t skimp on the sealant! There is never too much of it in installation work. But be sure to make sure that the silicone does not end up inside the pipe.
Note: For self-installation you don’t need professional tools to install a bathroom and its cistern. It is enough to stock up on a set of wrenches and adjustable types.
Bathroom with vertical outlet
This model is especially popular in European countries. Such a toilet is a device in which the siphon located in the bowl and the outlet pipe are directed downwards when installed. This universal design allows you to install the bathroom at any angle to the wall.
For installation you only need to perform a few steps:
- Make floor markings and install a regular screw flange with a locking device;
- Install the sewer pipe in the center of the flange;
- Mount the toilet on the flange and securely fix the outlet pipe.
Bathroom with horizontal outlet
Or in another way with direct release “into the wall”. Most common in Russia. The outlet of such a toilet is invariably directed backwards. The outlet pipe in this design is connected to the sewer pipe using a specific cuff.
In the installation procedure, pay attention to the attachment of the bathroom to the floor. The legs of this type of toilet are usually equipped with specific holes designed for fixing plumbing fixtures specifically to the floor surface.
Advice: You should begin connecting a bathroom with direct outlet during its installation. Dowels and standard screws are used as fasteners. Fasten the structure with great care, since excessively strong and sharp screw “pulling” is quite capable of damaging the integrity of the bathroom.
Toilet with oblique outlet
Let's look at the main installation points:
Specifics of connection without corrugation
We have already discussed connecting the bathroom to the general sewerage system using corrugated pipes in step-by-step instructions. Is it possible to connect a toilet without using corrugation, and won’t this process be more complicated? Such a connection is, of course, possible, but it is unlikely to raise any questions for you.
If you are finally convinced that the corrugation is unnecessary, then take a closer look at the following specific nuances in the procedure for such a connection:
Mandatory use of a drain pipe. Taking into account the angle of the toilet, connecting the adapter is carried out using different methods:
bathroom with oblique outlet– installation is carried out in the floor: in modern apartments You won’t see such a connection anymore, but once upon a time it was relevant;
bathroom with vertical outlet– installation is carried out strictly at right angles to the wall;
bathroom with horizontal outlet– the installation angle is equivalent to 40º, installation is carried out in the wall.- If the outlet of the bathroom does not suit the outlet of the sewage system, it is necessary to either purchase a different model of the product, or still use flexible adapter pipes.
Thus, installing a toilet with your own hands should not cause you serious problems. You can easily implement it, guided by certain rules, following the steps of the step-by-step instructions and taking into account the specifics plumbing installation. This will cost you much less than calling professionals to your home.
In the next article we will tell.
During a major overhaul or due to a plumbing failure, it is most often necessary to replace the toilet. In order for everything to go smoothly, you should consider whole line features of this process and the right approach to choosing a new toilet. To carry out all the work, you can seek help from the plumbers of your housing office or from private craftsmen who will perform all the necessary operations. However, installing a toilet with your own hands will save you considerable money, and understanding the whole process will help you choose the most suitable one. best option and mounting method.
A complete toilet replacement is part of a major overhaul and includes the following items:
- – choose a new toilet according to the mounting method and flushing method;
- – dismantle the old toilet;
- – repair the room (replacement of cladding, screed, sewer pipes, etc.);
- – installation and connection of a new toilet.
It is very important to select and purchase a new toilet in advance. In this case, a number of features and nuances are taken into account.
Choosing a new toilet
Based on their design, floor-standing toilets are divided into several types, differing in the shape of their main components.
So, there are the following models according to the shape of the outlet drain:
- horizontal
- oblique (at an angle of 45 degrees)
- vertical
Based on the shape of the bowl, they are distinguished:
- disc-shaped
- visor
- funnel-shaped
The flush cistern can be combined with the base of the toilet or mounted separately on the wall, raising it to a sufficient height, and sometimes even to the ceiling.
The attachments of toilets to the floor are also different. Mostly, there are options with two and four direct fastening points; in addition, you may come across designs in which special corners are attached to the floor, and the toilet itself is attached to them.
Choosing a toilet should start with selecting the type of flush. If it is not intended to change the sewer pipe supply, then the same type of drain must be selected as was installed before. No amount of adapters or pipes will allow you to connect a high-quality toilet, for example, with a direct outlet and a vertical one.
The method of connecting the tank affects the tiling work in the toilet. After all, if you choose a wall mounting method, you will need to prepare a place and anchors for installation.
Before changing the toilet, you should take into account the dimensions of the toilet so that the structure after installation does not interfere with closing the door and installing other equipment, if all this is done in a combined bathroom.
Removing an old toilet
- Turn off the water supply to the cistern. Drain all the water from it and unscrew the hose that goes to it. After this, you can unscrew the tank fastenings. Most likely, the bolts holding it on are rusty or caked with deposits. In order to tear them off, you will need to hold the bolt head on one side with a screwdriver or open-end wrench, and unscrew the nut on the other side with an adjustable wrench. You can use WD-40 spray lubricant or a little kerosene to soak the bolt. Then he will succumb to efforts more easily.
- Next, after removing the tank, the fastenings of the toilet itself are unscrewed. These can be nuts screwed onto anchors or dowels.
- The next stage involves disconnecting the drain from the sewer pipe. In older houses, the drain was secured using cement plastering. For the work you will need a chisel and a hammer. Carefully chop the cement with a chisel, placing it across the coating in two places. Next, you can forcefully rock the toilet until the drain turns and becomes loose. After this, without disconnecting the toilet, tilt it to drain all the remaining water from it.
- When dismantling the toilet is completed, the hole in the sewer pipe is closed using a fabric stopper or a wooden plug. It should be remembered that gases from sewers are not only poisonous and smell unpleasant, but are also flammable.
You don’t have to worry too much about dismantling the toilet, because it’s unlikely to be reused. In this case, to make it easier to work with chipping the cement coating, it is better to beat it off with a sledgehammer most toilet. To make it easier to twist and loosen the drain after this, make a transverse hole in the pipe and insert a metal rod or wooden stick as a lever.
If the apartment has cast iron drain pipes, it’s best to change them all to plastic at the same time. Usage PVC pipes for sewerage greatly simplifies the process of operation and initial wiring, as well as connecting all drain points.
Procedure for installing a new toilet
- When all Finishing work manufactured or the old toilet has been dismantled and the surface for the new one has been leveled and prepared, you can begin installation. To do this, attach either corrugated pipe for connection with a sewer outlet pipe, or a rigid pipe. It is best when the toilet flush enters the pipe outlet perfectly and without the use of corrugated pipes. In this case, you just need to use a rubber seal with a border. When using rubber seals, the transition between the drain and the sewer inlet cannot be sealed with cement.
- The water supply is being prepared. The easiest way is to use a flexible hose that is screwed onto the water supply tap and to the inlet of the tank. You should carefully select the required diameter of the fasteners at both ends of the hose. Thus, outlets for 1/8” pipe are often used, but 3/4” pipe can also be installed.
- After connecting, you can begin fixing the toilet to the floor or wall. More details about connection methods will be discussed below.
- The toilet is being assembled. A tank is mounted on a fixed base or a pipe is supplied from a hanging barrel mounted on the wall. After this, you can check the functionality of the toilet and the settings of the tank. To do this, turn on the feed cold water and wait until the tank is full. By adjusting, you can adjust the level to which water will be drawn. Each locking mechanism or tank comes with instructions on how to set it up.
- The final step will be attaching the toilet seat. For its fastening, there are holes on the far upper part of the toilet bowl, and bolted or anchor fastenings are included with the toilet seat.
Methods of fixing the toilet and their features
There are three main options for attaching a toilet to the floor:
- strengthening using anchors embedded in the screed, or using dowels;
- installing the toilet on a wooden base pre-installed in the screed using screws;
- fixed with epoxy resin.
What is the best way to fasten during a major floor renovation?
If the toilet is being replaced during a major overhaul, then it is better to use the option with anchor fastening or with a prepared wooden base. In this option, at the stage of forming the screed, anchors are placed on the floor strictly in accordance with the placement of the toilet bowl and mounting holes. As a result, they should protrude above the surface by about 5-6 cm. It is better to cut off the excess later than to face the problem when there is not enough anchor to secure the nut on it.
The wooden board (taffeta) is selected according to the size of the toilet base. Nails are driven into it in a checkerboard pattern over the entire surface so that they protrude from the other side. After this, the board is turned over and installed in the future location of the toilet. Concrete is poured into the screed along with taffeta along its upper edge. After this, you can install the toilet in place and secure it with screws.
Mounting a toilet on a tile
When securing the toilet under the nuts for anchors and on the dowels, it is imperative to wear rubber gaskets, which will protect the toilet from cracking when tightened and prevent the formation of rusty streaks on the ceramics. It is best to use nickel-plated bolts and anchors so that after their service life has expired, they will still be easy to unscrew.
For installation on an already finished surface, such as a tiled floor would be better suited fastening with dowels or epoxy resin so as not to damage appearance coverings.
In this case, holes are made for the dowels through the tiles and screed for their installation, into which screws are screwed. It is important not to make the holes too deep so as not to damage the waterproofing layer. If the screed is too thin, then it is best to pour a little sealant into the hole before installing the dowel. A rubber gasket must be placed on the screw. The toilet itself is best placed on a sealant cushion and then pressed down with screws.
You can completely dispense with the use of screws, dowels and anchors. To do this, just take epoxy resin and properly prepare the surface of the floor and the base of the toilet. This option is best suited if the barrel is installed on a wall, because it makes up half the weight of the entire structure. First of all, you should walk with an abrasive stone or sandpaper over the floor surface so that later epoxy resin stayed on the surface normally. After this, a layer of a few millimeters of glue is applied to the floor and toilet. Having installed everything in its place, you should wait until the glue dries completely.
Suspended solutions
It is gaining more and more popularity. Installation wall hung toilet It is made on the wall without fastenings or contacts with the floor. In order to secure it, it is necessary to build a metal frame that is attached directly to load-bearing wall, and then the toilet itself, if you plan to hide the tank and pipes behind a plasterboard wall. In some cases wall hung toilet with an open tank, you can attach it directly to the wall, but then you will need to move the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The fastening itself is done using anchors mounted into the wall or frame.
How much will it cost to hire a specialist?
So, having familiarized yourself with the process of replacing a toilet, you can compare the options for installing it yourself and paying a plumber for the work. On average, installing a toilet costs from 400 to 1,200 rubles if you contact private specialists. However, the cost of installation can increase significantly depending on the high cost of plumbing and the complexity of its installation.
Video: DIY toilet installation
To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other water intake points, and significantly simplifies the installation process. Flexible eyeliner also used during installation gas equipment. It differs from similar water devices in its manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.
Characteristics and types
The flexible hose for connecting plumbing is a hose of different lengths made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Thanks to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard to reach places. To protect the flexible hose, there is an upper reinforcing layer in the form of a braid, which is made from the following materials:
- Aluminum. Such models can withstand no more than +80 °C and retain functionality for 3 years. At high humidity Aluminum braiding is prone to rust.
- Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water line is at least 10 years, and Maximum temperature transported medium - +95 °C.
- Nylon. This braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 °C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.
The fasteners used are nut-nut and nut-fitting pairs, which are made of brass or of stainless steel. Devices with different indicators permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used for connecting to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones - with hot ones.
When choosing a water supply, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that prevents the rubber from releasing toxic components during operation.
Features of gas connections
When connected gas stoves, speakers and other types of equipment also use flexible hoses. Unlike models for water, they have yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixation, end steel or aluminum reinforcement is used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:
- PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
- made of synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
- bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.
Santekhkomplekt holding offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and devices for connecting it to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials from well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, each client is assigned a personal manager. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without unnecessary hassle.
Drainage is a drainage and drainage measure to remove excess groundwater.
If water does not leave the site for a long time, the soil becomes gleyed, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (get wet), you need to urgently take action and drain the site.
Causes of soil waterlogging
There are several reasons for soil waterlogging:
- clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
- aquifer in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
- high groundwater table;
- technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various objects) that interfere with natural drainage;
- disruption of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
- The landscape area is located in a lowland, ravine, or hollow. In this case, precipitation and water inflow from higher places play an important role.
What are the consequences of excess moisture in the soil?
You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?
- the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the content of carbon dioxide increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and nutrition in the soil;
- oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
- the supply of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become unavailable for absorption;
- intensive breakdown of proteins occurs and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.
Plants can tell you at what level groundwater lies
Take a close look at the flora of your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:
- perched water - it is best to dig a reservoir in this place;
- at a depth of up to 0.5 m - marigold, horsetails, varieties of sedges grow - bladderwrack, holly, foxweed, Langsdorff's reed;
- at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass, ;
- from 1 m to 1.5 m – favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse pea, china;
- from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.
What is important to know when planning site drainage
Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:
- at a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m they can grow on high beds vegetables and annual flowers;
- water depth up to 1.5 m is well tolerated vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry bushes, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
- if the groundwater is more than 2 m deep, fruit trees can be grown;
- optimal depth of groundwater for Agriculture- from 3.5 m.
Is site drainage necessary?
Record your observations for at least some time. You yourself can understand how much drainage is needed.
Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along the bypass channel, rather than allowing it to flow through your site?
Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil and this will be enough?
Or is it worth doing drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?
A specialist will give you the exact answer, and we strongly recommend calling him. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness on this issue.
Upon completion of technological and production tasks related to the arrangement sewer system V apartment building, industrial building, as well as in private households, it is required to test the involved system using the forced flow method. This task is used to identify possible defects or incorrect installation of the entire involved sewer part and a system testing report internal sewerage and drains will be material evidence of the work on acceptance of the object.
A visual inspection should be accompanied by inclusion in the test report of internal sewerage and drainage systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the “D” series appendix, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 “Internal sanitary systems of a building”, in Lately the new updated working edition according to SNiP 3.05.01-85 is applicable.
To know how to install a toilet correctly, you need to understand the models and evaluate the capabilities of the sewage system in a private home. This is much faster and easier than paying the craftsmen an amount that is equal to the cost of the plumbing itself.
Moreover, the installation instructions describe everything in detail, there are even pictures. Therefore, installing a toilet in a private house with your own hands should not be a hassle, especially if the sewage system is new.
In contact with
Tools and materials
Simple set of tools found in every home:
- drill with a drill with a diameter of 10 mm;
- screwdriver;
- roulette;
- marker for markings;
- screwdrivers and a set of wrenches;
- knife for cutting gasket.
You may also need a spatula to eliminate chips ceramic tiles. Materials required for installation, except for the bowl and tank:
- corrugated hose;
- oil seal - rubber gasket;
- hose for supplying water to the tank;
- sealing tape for sealing;
- a tap that will shut off the water in the plumbing;
- silicone.
Important! When choosing a bowl, you need to take into account the size of the room, so as not to rest your knees on the door later.
You should also consider the installation of the product and what kind of drain is available. Of course, it is better when the model of the bowl and the method of its installation are planned at the construction stage. But it happens that you just need to replace old plumbing with new ones. Then you will have to connect to the old sewer system and use drains that were made a long time ago.
Prices for toilet corrugation
corrugation for toilet
How to choose a toilet
The bowl should be easy to clean and comfortable. Sizes are selected based on the height of all family members. You can buy a model you like, but it will be inconvenient to use because it will not correspond to the parameters of a private house or apartment.
Installing a toilet in a private house with your own hands is associated with certain costs and you want them to pay off in terms of convenience.
First of all, models differ in price:
- Economy class;
- middle class;
- luxury plumbing.
Luxury plumbing parts are designed to long term services won’t just break down. When buying an expensive item, you can be sure that it will last a long time.
Another option is color spectrum. In large supermarkets you can choose any shade and implement the most daring design solutions.
Models available for sale:
- from natural stone – durable and reliable, service life is unlimited;
- glass - completely transparent or with a pattern;
- faience;
- ceramic;
- metal;
- porcelain, which can last up to 50 years;
- plastic.
When purchasing, you need to carefully look at what is included in the equipment package. It may happen that the bowl and cistern sold separately.
Except external characteristics, need to note:
- to the height of the equipment;
- type of construction – suspended, floor-mounted, wall-mounted floor;
- what type of flush - reverse or direct;
- The method of draining the tank is one or two button.
It will cost more, but the structural elements will be hidden in the wall, which will save some space in the room. Backwash is of better quality because it washes the bowl completely. allows save water.
Important! When choosing a design, you should check it for cracks and chips.
Toilet prices
Types of toilets
Plumbing products are distinguished according to the drain design:
- horizontal - the drain is located in the floor;
- vertical – parallel to the floor;
- oblique - at an angle of 30 degrees to the floor.
Tanks are:
- Separated when they are connected to the bowl by a pipe. How to assemble the toilet and cistern is shown in the instructions.
- Compacts, if attached directly to the bowl. The design diagram is drawn in the instructions, fasteners are included, so assembly is not difficult.
Bowl design:
- with flat flush;
- with vertical flush.
The location of the neck of the bowl varies front and rear. The front one is more common, as it is more convenient to use. The toilet diagram in the instructions allows you to decide what exactly is suitable for use.
Preparing for installation
If it is implied, then first needs to be dismantled old equipment and install new equipment in its place. Correct installation toilet is the key to cleanliness and safety for a new renovation. The seams should not leak, the body should not wobble or make sounds.
If ceramic tile has already been changed, then the installation of plumbing is carried out directly on top of tiles. In this case, you need to use the drill carefully so that the tiles do not crack.
If old plumbing fixtures are being removed and no repairs have been made yet, then before starting dismantling you need to prepare rags, because water will leak out of the toilet. The bowl needs to be washed and treated disinfectant. You should also turn off the water supply and drain the remaining water from the tank.
First, all existing hoses are disconnected, the screws are unscrewed, and the tank is dismantled. Next you need to knock the leg out of the tile. For this use a crowbar. The nuts are unscrewed from the base of the bowl.
Before disconnecting from the sewer pipe, you need to make a plug from rags and immediately plug the pipe so that odors do not enter the house. Assembling the structure will not take much time, so use new thing can be in one hour, if the room has already been renovated. If you have to lay new tiles, you will have to use the outdoor toilet for some time.
You can see how to assemble a toilet in the diagram. Step-by-step instruction included with each equipment model.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a toilet
How to install a toilet? The first step is to connect the bowl to the sewer. For this you need a corrugated hose. A rubber seal is placed on the outlet end of the product. The other end is connected to sewer pipe. First you need to remove the gag from the rags.
When the product is already in place, they produce the following operations:
- Mark the holes on the floor with a marker by inserting a marker into them.
- Moving the bowl aside, drill holes according to the marks (the diameter must match the fasteners that come with the plumbing, you need to use special drills that can be used to drill tiles).
- The product moves into place and is attached to the floor.
- The junction of the product and the floor filled with sealant, another option is to cut a thin rubber gasket in the shape of the leg and place it in front of the fastening.
To connect the tank, needed:
- mounting bolts – 2 pcs.;
- rubber gasket under the drain mechanism.
Installing a toilet tank begins with fastening the bolts. Next, the gasket is placed, and the tank is put in place. The holes are aligned and the fasteners are tightened by hand. The toilet assembly is complete.
Replacing a toilet with your own hands ends with connecting to the water supply and sewerage system. Installation of toilets with a directly attached cistern does not require fastening, since it is a monoblock.
Features of connection to water supply and sewerage
The installation of the toilet is completed, now you need to figure out how to establish connection to water supply and sewerage. To connect to the pipe there is a flexible hose with nuts at both ends.
Sealing on the side of the plumbing equipment occurs using rubber gaskets or a special tape.
You can simultaneously place a tap on the pipe so that you can shut off the water flowing into the tank. In this case, other water intake points will work.
How to install a toilet correctly if the drain is different from the previous equipment? You will have to change the piping to match the new model.
Installing a toilet with an oblique outlet
Floor models come with an oblique, vertical or horizontal drain. Installing a toilet with an oblique outlet differs from the vertical or horizontal method.
To the joint did not leak, need to:
- lubricate the outlet pipe with red lead - oil paint, mixed with drying oil;
- wind the fiber and then also smear with paint;
- fix the pipe in the sewer pipe.
Installation of a toilet with an oblique outlet is carried out if the previous equipment had the same drain.
Installation of toilets with an attached cistern
The monoblock lasts a long time, so when purchasing a model, it is recommended to immediately purchase spare internal parts, since models on the market often change, and after a while they will no longer be produced.
Installation of toilets with cistern directly attached is carried out as follows:
- the pipe connects to the sewer;
The assembly instructions for any model are designed for the average buyer or beginner, so it will not be difficult. You should study the stages of work in detail, prepare tools and materials - and you can begin the procedure for replacing plumbing equipment.
