Well      06/23/2020

What should tomatoes be fed during flowering? How to feed tomatoes during flowering When tomatoes bloom how to fertilize them

Tomatoes, like many other nightshades, are sprayed to protect plants from pests and pathogens various diseases. Typically used for this purpose fungicidal preparations natural and chemical origin. They make it possible to prevent, for example, the development of such a dangerous disease as late blight.

Tomatoes are also sprayed to perform foliar feeding. Nutrients reaching the leaves of these cultivated plants, allow tomatoes to get stronger faster and give more good harvest. Aqueous solutions of whey, urea, iodine and calcium nitrate are often used as foliar fertilizers. Usually the procedure is performed in the evening on calm days.

And finally, the purpose of spraying may be to stimulate tomato bushes to form ovaries. Typically, such spraying is carried out during the flowering period of the second and third clusters of the plant. The goal is to help the pollen “germinate.” For this, boric acid is used (10 g boric acid per 10 liters of settled water). Such spraying is safe, so throughout the entire flowering period, tomato bushes can be sprayed up to 5 times at regular intervals. Procedures should be carried out in the morning or evening, in clear, windless weather.

Instead of boric acid, you can use vinegar (1 spoon acetic acid per 10 liters of water). Just like boron, this spraying promotes the formation of ovaries and at the same time protects tomatoes well from late blight.

Every gardener wants to grow his own personal plot rich tomato harvest. But in ignorance important points care, including how to properly feed during flowering, the long-awaited harvest may not wait.

To obtain a rich harvest, as well as to set new inflorescences, a flowering tomato bush needs: nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.

The deficiency of these nutrients can be determined by appearance plants:

  1. Lack of nitrogen - the leaves begin to turn yellow from below, gradually rising upward.
  2. Lack of phosphorus - foliage becomes purple, at a consistently moderate temperature.
  3. Potassium depletion - a lack of potassium manifests itself in discoloration of the leaves; if the plant is not fertilized, the leaves become brown and dry out.

If the plant is not fertilized during flowering and when fruits are forming, the tomatoes will grow sour with an unripe core.

If tomatoes are not fertilized during flowering, they will grow with an unripe core.

Feeding tomatoes during the flowering period

Feeding flowering tomatoes, playing important role in the formation of ovaries and when grown in a greenhouse and in open ground, which in the future leads to the ripening of a large number of fruits. Excess fertilizer has just as bad an effect on the plant as too little fertilizer..

The following can be used as a fertilizer for tomatoes:

  • Mineral fertilizers
  • Organic fertilizers

Two are also used method of application:

  • Foliar
  • Root

Mineral

Nowadays, our eyes run wide from the large number of mineral fertilizers. But not everyone knows what to feed during the flowering period of tomatoes or to speed it up.

Tomatoes will not develop well if the soil is poor in phosphorus and potassium.. The following can be used as phosphorus and potassium fertilizers:

  • Potassium chloride and sulfate


Before applying fertilizers, you must carefully read the instructions for use.

You can also use phosphorus-potassium fertilizers: potassium monophosphate. Method of preparation: dilute 15 grams of the substance in 10 liters of water. This amount can be used to shed 1 square meter. meter of tomato ridge.

Excess nitrogen has a detrimental effect on flowering tomatoes. Nitrogen contributes to a large increase in green mass, which leads to a redistribution of nutrients from the forming fruits to the emerging stepsons.

In order to enrich the soil with nitrogen, you can add complex fertilizers to it. They are good because all the necessary substances that vegetables need are in equal proportions.

Complex fertilizers for flowering tomatoes:

  • Kemira
  • Station wagon
  • Mortar
  • Effecton
  • Signor tomato

When using mineral fertilizers, you must remember that:

  • Nitrogen content should be less than potassium and phosphorus
  • Fertilizers should contain: iron, calcium, boron, zinc, sulfur and magnesium
  • Chlorine and its components should not be included in the composition

Organic feeding

Organic fertilizers can be purchased at the store, or you can prepare them yourself.

Nowadays, most gardeners refuse to feed tomatoes mineral fertilizers and give preference to organics. Since organic not only nourishes the plant, but also protects it from numerous diseases.

Humates not only nourish, but also improve the structure of the soil. With the annual application of this preparation, the tomatoes will bear fruit well. even on the poorest land.


Yeast

Yeast fertilizer increases plant growth and development, and that is why it is so necessary for flowering tomatoes.

Cooking method:

  • Dissolve 100 grams of fresh yeast in a liter of warm water. Bring the solution to a volume of 10 liters, after the formation of yeast foam. This amount is enough to fertilize 15 bushes.
  • 10 grams of dry yeast per bucket of water. Let it brew for 2 days. The resulting solution is diluted in a ratio of 1:10.

Together with yeast feeding, add to the ground wood ash .

Ash

To feed tomatoes, you can use wood, straw, or peat ash. It contains a large number of: calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, without them flowering plant not enough.


Mode of application:

  1. Once every 7 days, add a tablespoon of ash under a tomato bush.
  2. The plants are watered with a solution of ash 2 times a month (100 grams of ash are diluted in 10 liters of water). One bush should receive half a liter of solution.

Iodine

When using iodine solution, the number of ovaries increases, and the fruits ripen much faster.

Cooking method:

Dilute 3 drops of iodine in a bucket of water.

Plant fertilizer

a good choice for feeding flowering tomatoes.


Preparation method for a 200 liter barrel:

  1. 5 buckets of weeds (it is better to take nettles)
  2. 10 liters mullein
  3. Kilogram of fresh yeast
  4. Kilogram of ash
  5. 3 liters of milk or whey

Barrel contents leave for 14 days to infuse. Water a liter of infusion under each bush.

Foliar feeding

Foliar feeding is necessary for flowering tomatoes under unfavorable conditions.

Ash

Cooking method:

Dilute 300 grams of sifted ash in a three-liter jar. The resulting solution must be boiled for half an hour and dissolved in a bucket of water. Add grated laundry soap to the prepared solution and leave to infuse for a day.

When sprayed with this solution, the result appears right before your eyes. The buds begin to bloom, and the appearance of the tomatoes improves.

Iodine

30 drops of iodine are added to a liter of milk. Mix everything thoroughly, add tbsp. a spoonful of hydrogen peroxide and bring to 9 liters of water.


This feeding will not only give the tomatoes the necessary nutrition, but also protects the plant from diseases.

Boric acid is used when the air temperature is within +30 degrees. At high temperature, the plant blooms, but does not form fruits.

10 grams of powder diluted in a glass hot water, stir until completely dissolved. The prepared solution is added to a bucket of water.

Tomatoes are sprayed with this solution during flowering, once a week.


Favorable days for feeding tomatoes

Feeding is carried out:

  1. After transplanting the seedlings to a permanent place
  2. Normally developing tomatoes are fed 3-4 times per season
  3. Tomatoes that are stunted – 5-7 times
  4. Non-developing tomatoes - once every 10 days

Fertilizing is applied to well-drained soil in the morning or evening hours.

For flowering tomatoes, there are a great variety of fertilizers. Which solution or preparation to use is up to everyone to decide for themselves. Correct and timely application of fertilizers affects the quality and quantity of the crop.

How many complex issues do we, gardeners, have to solve over the summer? One of them is watering tomatoes in a greenhouse, how often to water, at what time, with what water. And some even think about how to grow tomatoes without watering at all. Well, this happens especially among overly busy summer residents.

It’s true that the frequency of watering tomatoes in a greenhouse is a very sensitive issue for those who cannot be in the country all the time. And those who spend the whole summer at the dacha also need to consider this issue. Well, for example, at one grandmother I know in our village, sometimes children from the north come and the garden literally begins to flood, or rather, what grows there. Water with buckets, in large quantities, in the morning and evening. Well, city dwellers love to manage things, especially if they come from a cold region where nothing is grown.

  • 1 How to water tomatoes in a greenhouse
    • 1.1 How often to water tomatoes in a greenhouse
      • 1.1.1 How to water tomatoes in a greenhouse in the heat
      • 1.1.2 Watering a tomato during flowering in a greenhouse
      • 1.1.3 Watering tomatoes during fruiting in a greenhouse
      • 1.1.4 When is the best time to water tomatoes in a greenhouse?
      • 1.1.5 When to stop watering tomatoes in a greenhouse
    • 1.2 Methods for watering tomatoes in a greenhouse
    • 1.3 How to properly water tomatoes in a greenhouse - video

How to water tomatoes in a greenhouse

Tomatoes are southern plants, they love warmth and are very responsive to comfortable temperature. But they also love water, mind you, water, not humidity and dampness. There are certain watering rules that experienced gardeners know:

  • Do not wet the foliage and trunk when watering
  • Do not spread dampness
  • Water not often, but a lot
  • Plants are very susceptible to diseases, especially fungal diseases and rot, which begin to develop with the appearance of excessive humidity, and this applies to both greenhouses and open ground.

    Despite varietal diversity, different climatic conditions, there are certain norms, I’ll say, average ones, which can be adjusted depending on the growing season or temperature.

    How often to water tomatoes in a greenhouse

    If you are observant, you may notice how the tomato bushes themselves will tell you about the need for watering, the tops and upper leaves begin to curl. But it is better not to allow it to reach this state during the period when the fruits begin to set.

    When planting seedlings, we usually immediately water the holes well; I don’t spare a large bucket of water. This is done for a reason. During the entire period while the plants take root, they will need moisture, but you cannot water the tomatoes additionally at this time, because the roots that have not yet begun to develop can quickly rot. For the first ten days after planting, tomatoes are not watered at all; they only need the moisture that you added when planting.

    Then watering occurs once every seven days and is regulated depending on the development of tomato bushes. But there should be enough water to keep the plant hydrated for a week.

    How to water tomatoes in a greenhouse in the heat

    Some people begin to flood their tomatoes in the very heat, thereby provoking a very common disease that appears on tomatoes precisely at elevated temperatures and humidity - blossom end rot. How then?

    It is necessary to increase not the frequency of watering, but the amount of liquid, bringing each square of the greenhouse area to 12-15 liters. Then be sure to mulch the hole around the bush so that the moisture does not evaporate quickly, that’s all the wisdom. Believe me, I’ve been growing tomatoes for 20 years.

    Watering a tomato during flowering in a greenhouse

    This is a crucial time to plant the future harvest. Here it is important not to overwater, and not to let the tomatoes ask for help or curl the leaves. Any deviations from the norm can cause flowers to fall off.

    It’s just right to keep the same frequency, once every seven days, and if there is no heat, then 10 liters per square meter.

    Watering tomatoes during fruiting in a greenhouse

    The ovaries begin to appear and every day we look under the bushes with pleasure, anticipating future harvest. At this time, plants need more nutrients, which they receive from fertilizing, but they also need more water.

    At this time, we gradually increase, again not the frequency of watering, but the number of liters from 10 to 12, as in hot weather. Again, look at your soil to see how it holds moisture and take this into account.

    A lack or excess of moisture can be seen by the appearance of the tomatoes; if there is a shortage, again, the leaves will curl. But if the tomatoes begin to crack, it means you have overdone it and you need to reduce the norm.

    When is the best time to water tomatoes in a greenhouse?

    As for all our garden crops, best time for watering when there is no active sunlight, no intense heat. Simply put, it's early morning and late evening.

    By the way, when choosing a watering time, do not forget about water. What kind of water to water tomatoes in a greenhouse is also a question that often arises.

    Water should be:

  • Settled, not from the tap, rain is better.
  • The same temperature as the soil in the greenhouse, that is, warm enough.
  • I have a large wheel from Kirovets dug into my garden; a ton of water enters it and it quickly warms up during the day; by the evening the water is warm, and it doesn’t even have time to cool down overnight. But so that you have it by morning warm water, you can put a metal container right in the greenhouse; it will heat up during the day and will not have time to cool down at night, so you can water your bushes with warm water in the morning.

    When to stop watering tomatoes in a greenhouse

    Usually at the end of July in greenhouses, including polycarbonate ones, they carry out topping, the procedure of cutting off the top of the head, to stop the growth of plants. At this time, the lower fruits are usually already picked, the upper ones are filled and ripen, most of the leaves from the bush have been removed and the amount of water can be reduced to 8 liters. But when most of the fruits on the uppermost cluster have already grown, watering stops altogether.

    Methods for watering tomatoes in a greenhouse

    Well, everything seems clear with watering methods, there are only three of them:

    • Manual, when you take a watering can and water with your own hands, by the way, do not forget to remove the strainer so that the water flows only into the soil and does not fly onto the bushes.
    • Drip, using a ready-made or home-made system dug into the ground plastic bottles
    • Automatic, when a whole irrigation system has been created on the site and water is supplied in doses at a certain time. But this system is expensive and not everyone has it.

    The first, watering by hand, is most likely the most common, especially in villages. They don’t really like to bother with all sorts of systems here. Plants in open ground are generally watered with a hose or sprinklers are installed.

    Of course, it’s inconvenient to go into the greenhouse with a hose; you can demolish half of the plantings, but a bucket or watering can is just right.

    The most convenient, in my opinion, and not only that, is drip irrigation. When water does not splash, but gets directly under the root and is absorbed, without creating excessive dampness in the greenhouse.

    If it is not possible to purchase the system drip irrigation, then it’s very easy to dig a bottle with holes under each bush yourself and then don’t worry that the tomatoes will dry out during the week of your absence from the dacha. In addition, you can also feed plants in this way. This method is economical in both resources and time.

    How to properly water tomatoes in a greenhouse - video

    The time when the buds bloom on the bushes is one of the most important moments in growing tomatoes. If before this period the bushes needed to grow at a certain temperature and under good lighting, then after the flowers bloom, the main thing is to properly fertilize the tomatoes.

    Although the seedlings are fed before this, it is the feeding of tomatoes during flowering that helps to obtain a bountiful and tasty harvest.

    What elements do tomatoes need?

    The first flower cluster grows on tomatoes after 6–8 pairs of true leaves appear, so tomatoes no longer need nitrogen.

    Attention! Nitrogen is required if, during flowering, the stems are very thin, the leaves are pale, if the bushes hardly grow.

    But usually, when blooming buds, bushes need phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), magnesium (Mg), boron (B), iron (Fe), sulfur (S).

    You need to remember that to fertilize tomatoes when the buds open:

    • the amount of potassium and phosphorus should be higher than nitrogen;
    • It is desirable that the fertilizing contains boron (B), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), sulfur (S), iron (Fe);
    • It is recommended that the fertilizer contain humates or humic acids;
    • It’s bad if there is chlorine in the fertilizer.

    How to recognize a lack of useful elements?

    1. If the bushes lack phosphorus, then you will see that the stems and leaves below turn purple. Then you need to spray the bushes with a highly diluted solution of superphosphate.
    2. With a lack of calcium, the foliage curls inward and the fruits develop blossom end rot. At the same time, spray the bushes with a solution of calcium nitrate.
    3. If the bushes lack nitrogen, their leaves turn pale or yellow, they grow very slowly, and the stems are thin. In this case, the tomatoes are sprayed with a low concentration of urea solution.

    Phosphorus and potassium

    What mineral fertilizers should I buy during flowering?

    Since bushes require phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), you can purchase:


    Attention! When you select fertilizer, remember that when using potassium chloride, a large amount of chlorine can accumulate in the ground, and this has a bad effect on the roots of the plant.

    You can fertilize the bushes with potassium monophosphate. This fertilizer is highly soluble in water and contains approximately 35% potassium and 50% phosphorus. Pour 8–15 g of potassium monophosphate into a bucket of water. This solution is enough for 1 m² of planting.

    Complex fertilizers

    If you can see from the bushes that they do not have enough nitrogen, they are frail, then you can feed the bushes with complex fertilizers when the buds open. They contain all the substances in the proportions and form required by tomatoes. In addition to this, in complex fertilizers There are microelements that the bushes need during this period.

    Complex fertilizers for tomatoes:

    Kemira Lux – fertilizer is soluble in water. In addition to phosphorus and potassium, it also contains boron, iron, copper, manganese, zinc, and molybdenum.

    Universal is a fertilizer in the form of granules that does not contain chlorine. It contains humic substances that enrich the soil and help plants absorb useful material. This is done by mixing it with calcium. The station wagon is not suitable for foliar feeding.

    Effecton is an organic fertilizer containing peat soil, shale ash and phosphate rock.

    Senor Tomato is a fertilizer created specifically for tomato bushes and other nightshades. The fertilizer contains: 1 part nitrogen, 4 parts phosphorus and 2 parts potassium, as well as humic substances and Azotbacter bacteria. Bacteria add beneficial microorganisms to the soil. Senor Tomato is not used for foliar feeding.

    Organic

    Since the fruits obtained when feeding bushes with mineral fertilizers may not always be environmentally friendly, gardeners are increasingly using organic matter. Organics have such an advantage that they are used not only to fertilize bushes, but also to prevent tomato diseases, for example, late blight.

    Humates

    This organic matter enriches the soil, and beneficial microflora multiply in it. Adding humus to the soil helps to increase the yield, ensure good setting and filling of tomatoes even on soils depleted of nutrients.

    You can buy Lignohumate, GUMI Kuznetsov (pour 2 tablespoons into a bucket of clean water), Gumat+7, GUMI 30, Gumat-Universal.

    Yeast

    When yeast is used, the bushes begin to actively set fruit. And it is best to feed with yeast during flowering, since you should not use this substance often, because it is a growth stimulant. Yeast feeding valid for 2–4 weeks.

    Prepare yeast fertilizer as follows: pour 100 g of fresh yeast into 1 liter of heated water, leave for 3-4 hours, then dilute another 9 liters clean water. This volume is enough to feed 10–20 bushes. Pour the solution under the root. When the buds begin to bloom, pour half a liter of solution under 1 bush, and when setting tomatoes, pour 1 liter per bush.

    Attention! Since yeast, when it gets into the soil, can destroy the potassium and calcium contained there, it is recommended to sprinkle ash under the bushes along with yeast fertilizer.

    Ash

    Straw, wood and peat ash contain the microelements required by tomatoes: calcium, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium. Because of this, ash is very useful to use when tomatoes are flowering.

    You can use fertilizer in different ways:

    1. You can sprinkle the soil with ash by pouring 1 tbsp. spoon under 1 bush every 14 days.
    2. Prepare a solution for root feeding and water the tomatoes with it twice a month. To do this, pour 100 g of ash into a bucket of clean water. Stir the solution constantly. Pour 0.5 liters under 1 bush.
    3. Do foliar feeding. It also protects tomatoes from pests. Sift 300 g of ash, add it to a saucepan, pour in 3 liters of water, and boil for half an hour. Dilute by adding another 10 liters of clean water, also add a little laundry soap. Leave for a day, then use.

    Attention! 2-3 hours after drinking the ash solution, you can see that the bushes become healthier and their buds bloom.

    Folk remedies

    Iodine and milk

    When buds open, iodine can intensify the formation of ovaries, increase the activity of fruit growth, improve their taste, and add sugar content.

    The simplest recipe is to drop 3 drops of iodine into a bucket of clean water. Water the bushes with the solution at the roots.

    Or drop 30 drops of iodine into 1 liter of milk, pour in 1 tbsp. a spoonful of hydrogen peroxide. Dilute the composition with 9 liters of clean water. This solution can be used for foliar feeding. It will not only fertilize the tomatoes, but also prevent the development of late blight.

    You can also drop 5–10 g of iodine into a bucket of clean water and add half a liter of wood ash. Leave the solution for 8-14 hours, then use. Iodine destroys harmful microorganisms in the soil.

    Chaga

    You can buy chaga at the pharmacy ( birch mushroom), place it in water so that you get a dark solution, and then do foliar feeding of the tomatoes.

    Boric acid

    If your bushes grow in a greenhouse, then it is usually hot, and the bushes begin to produce buds, but the tomatoes do not set. The same thing happens if tomatoes grow in open ground in the south. To set fruit, fertilize the tomatoes in the greenhouse during flowering with boric acid.

    Pour 10 g of white boric acid powder into 1 liter of hot water, then increase the volume of the solution to 10 liters. Spray the bushes growing in the greenhouse with this solution from the period of bud opening until the ovaries appear. Spray once a week.

    Herbal infusion

    What other fertilizer can you feed tomatoes during the flowering period? Herbal infusion works very well. Take a 200 liter barrel. Pour 5 buckets of chopped grass into it, it is better if it contains nettle. Pour in 1 bucket of mullein or half a bucket bird droppings. Add 1 kg of fresh yeast and 1 kg of ash. Pour in 3 liters of whey.

    Fill the barrel to the top with clean water and leave for 1–2 weeks for the infusion to ferment. Then pour 1 liter of composition under 1 bush. This fertilizer contains all the substances that tomatoes require when flowering.

    Conclusion

    Thus, fertilizing the bushes when the buds open is very important if you want to end up with sweet, large, juicy tomatoes.

    Also remember that during this period the bushes are greatly helped by fertilizing with green herbal infusion, they grow better, become more resistant to climate change, are less susceptible to diseases, and their ovaries appear much more intensively. And feeding with iodine, hydrogen peroxide and milk protects tomatoes from late blight.

    If your bushes grow in a greenhouse, then fertilizing with boric acid is most suitable for them for setting tomatoes.

    Tomatoes are vegetables that are grown in almost every garden plot. To obtain good harvests, it is necessary to carry out the irrigation procedure correctly. However, not everyone knows how to “properly” water tomato plants growing in simple beds without shelter in order to harvest tasty and high-quality vegetables. This is exactly what the following article will talk about.

    Why is it important to water tomatoes correctly?

    Much depends on the timeliness and compliance with irrigation norms during different periods of tomato development. So, if nightshades experience a moisture deficiency, this is fraught with the following consequences:

    • growth and development will be significantly slower than expected;
    • Mass falling of flowers and absence of ovaries may occur;
    • set tomatoes will grow slowly and gain weight;
    • the fruit size will be significantly smaller than typical for the variety.

    If there is excess moisture in the soil, other problems may arise:

    • and as a result they will stop blooming;
    • there is a high risk of root system rot;
    • significantly increased by other fungal and viral diseases;
    • the skin of the fruit begins to crack;
    • taste qualities significantly reduced, the taste becomes watery.

    How best to water: watering methods

    Today, thanks to the achievements of science and the efforts of gardeners, there are many ways and special devices for organizing watering of tomatoes. For tomatoes growing in open ground, the following are most suitable:

    Watering beds through channels (furrows)

    A simple and accessible way for everyone, with minimum quantity costs. In a tomato bed, watering ditches are made along the bushes. It’s better if there are three of them: two at the edges of the bed and one between the rows. The hose with water is placed in one of these grooves (preferably the middle one), and the water is flowing until all three grooves are filled.

    It is best to prepare irrigation furrows in advance, even before transplanting the seedlings to the garden bed. To do this, they are cut at a distance of 130-140 cm, and the bushes are planted on both sides of these ditches.

    Over time, the water will gradually erode the irrigation grooves, and the tomatoes will actively grow. To maintain the irrigation design and prevent exposure of the roots, the plants are hilled as they grow. As a rule, two or three hillings per season are sufficient.

    Drip irrigation

    This method is considered one of the best and most reliable, but you will have to tinker with it to organize it. There are two options here:

    • purchase a factory-made drip irrigation system;
    • set up a homemade irrigation system from ordinary plastic bottles.

    In the first case, you only need to correctly place the drip tubes and adjustable droppers in the bed along the tomato bushes. As a rule, such systems are equipped with a timer with which you can program the water supply time.

    The second option is much cheaper, but requires certain labor costs. It consists in the following. Near each bush, at a distance of 15-20 cm from the stem, plastic bottles are dug upside down, to a depth of 10-15 cm. Before this, the following are carried out: preparatory work:

    • Bottles are prepared in approximately the same quantity as the number of tomato bushes growing in the garden. The container volume may vary, but two-liter containers are better suited.
    • Holes are poked into bottle caps with a hot nail. For light sandy and sandy loam soils, two or three holes will be enough; for heavy loamy soil, four to five holes are needed. To prevent soil from subsequently clogging these holes, the lid is wrapped with pieces of nylon (from old nylon tights).
    • The bottom of the bottle is cut off completely or left in the form of a cap to avoid debris and to reduce moisture evaporation.

    When watering, the bottles are filled with water. In this case, it is very important to ensure that the liquid goes into the soil gradually, and not immediately immediately after watering. If this was noted, then the bottle caps need to be replaced and the number of holes or their diameter reduced.

    This type of subsoil drip irrigation has the following advantages:

    • water flows directly to the root system of plants and evenly;
    • air humidity does not increase, which is of great importance in prevention;
    • The amount of liquid, time and effort for watering is saved.

    Advice!

    Today, nozzles for plastic bottles are available for sale specifically for root watering. They have the shape of a pointed cone, with one end they are screwed onto the necks, the other has a small hole. Installing bottles with such attachments is much easier than digging in bottles and it is safer for the root system of tomatoes.

    Frequency and rate of watering tomatoes

    The frequency of irrigation, as well as the water consumption rate, depends on several factors. First of all, you need to focus on the moisture needs of plants depending on the phase of development. Weather conditions and the characteristics of some varieties are of no small importance. Only taking into account all of the above can you choose optimal schedule irrigation of vegetable plantings.

    Watering after transplanting to the garden bed

    There are different expert opinions on how to water tomatoes immediately after transplanting into the ground. Some agronomists believe that watering during this period should be excluded for 10-12 days. But at the same time, it is important to plant the bushes in heavily moistened planting holes, that is, using the “in the mud” planting method. And over the next two weeks, carry out only the so-called “dry watering,” that is, loosening.

    But the vast majority of specialists and experienced gardeners are still inclined to believe that in the first days after transplantation, tomato plants, on the contrary, need an increased amount of moisture. This will help them cope more easily with the change in living conditions and quickly settle down in a new place. Therefore, it is recommended to water the plants every day for the first 12-14 days. The consumption rate is 1-2 liters per bush. IN further watering reduced to once every five days. The norm in this mode is 10 liters per square meter.

    Watering during flowering

    It is very important to water tomatoes properly during this period. Mistakes made can be quite expensive and deprive you of your harvest. The main rule for watering flowering tomatoes is to water abundantly, but rarely. It is considered optimal to water once every seven days, at a rate of 3 liters per bush. It is important to avoid excessive air humidity. This will lead to a drop in color, and the moistened pollen will not be able to be sprayed as expected, which means pollination will not occur and fruits will not set. To avoid high humidity air, the soil in tomato beds must be covered with a mulch layer, for example, straw. This will prevent rapid evaporation of moisture. When organizing drip system There are no watering problems such as excess moisture.

    Important!

    If during flowering it is cloudy and rainy weather, tomatoes need help to pollinate. To do this, in the morning, bushes or twigs with flowers are carefully shaken.

    Watering during fruiting

    As soon as “greenbacks” have formed on the bushes, another watering rule comes into force - in no case should the soil dry out. To do this, the plantings are irrigated twice a week, and the consumption rate is 4-5 liters per bush.

    If, however, the circumstances are such that watering was not carried out on time and the soil in the beds is dry, the irrigation rate is reduced to one liter per plant. Otherwise, the bushes will greedily begin to absorb moisture, which will lead to shedding of newly set fruits and cracking of vegetables that have already reached large sizes. The next watering is carried out according to the usual standards.

    Another sad consequence of improper and excessive watering during fruiting is.

    Features of watering tomatoes depending on the type of their growth (determinant and indeterminate)

    Due to the different lengths of the growing season, watering determinate and indeterminate tomatoes is slightly different. So when grown in open ground low-growing varieties The watering rate after the formation of ovaries is noticeably reduced, and before harvesting it is stopped completely. Due to the fact that the fruits of such tomatoes ripen almost simultaneously, the plant no longer needs an increased amount of moisture. If you continue to water the plantings in the same mode as before, this will lead to cracking of the fruits and make them watery. In addition, excess moisture increases the risk of fungal diseases such as late blight.

    With tall tomatoes the situation is different. The load on indeterminate plants from the moment they begin to bear fruit is very large, since several processes occur simultaneously: vine growth, flowering, ovary formation and fruit filling. Accordingly, the need for moisture is very high. Therefore, during active fruiting, watering is carried out once every four days, and the consumption is about one bucket of water per bush.

    Basics of high-quality irrigation of tomatoes

    Exist general rules watering tomatoes in open ground. We list the main ones:

    • Tomatoes are afraid of watering with hard water, as a result they can develop a disease such as chlorosis. You can soften it as follows: stand for three days or add wood ash (100 grams per 100-liter barrel of water).
    • Irrigation is carried out either early in the morning or no earlier than four hours before sunset.
    • It is not advisable to carry out loosening; it is recommended to replace this procedure with mulching.
    • When the air temperature is below 10 degrees, watering is prohibited. Plants absorb leaves from moisture from the air.
    • Do not allow drops of water to get on the inflorescences of the plant, its fruits and leaves.

    Watering during hot weather

    Despite the fact that tomatoes are a southern and heat-loving plant, they tolerate heat quite hard. In hot weather, it is best to water in the evening. In this case, during the night period the plants will have time to absorb moisture. IN as a last resort Tomatoes are irrigated early in the morning, while the sun is not active. If it is not possible to water vegetable beds In the morning or evening it is better not to do this at all.

    At critical temperatures, it happens that after morning watering, by evening the soil is dry again. In this case, additional evening watering is carried out. But experts recommend avoiding such situations by mulching the soil in the beds.

    As for the frequency of watering, in hot weather it is necessary to carry out the procedure two to three times a week. The consumption rate, depending on the tomato variety and the fruiting phase, is 3-5 liters per bush.

    Advice!

    You can determine whether it is time to irrigate by the appearance of the plants: drooping foliage or fresh, as well as by the flowability of the soil.

    Having studied the simple basics of watering tomatoes growing without shelter in open ground, everyone doesn’t even have experienced gardener You will be able to grow strong, healthy plants and get a good harvest. To obtain maximum yields, choose zoned tomato varieties intended for growing in open ground.