Strawberries are the favorite berry of adults and children, and in order for them to please with their taste and aroma for as long as possible, you should know how to plant strawberries in the spring, what place to choose for them, what to fertilize with and how much to water.
Choosing a site and soil for growing strawberries
For abundant growth and fruiting, strawberries are best planted in black soil areas, on dark gray forest soil, on sandy and loamy soil, on small slopes on the southwestern side. Slower growth of strawberries and lower yields are observed when planting berries on sod-podzolic soil, on clay and light gray soils in the lowlands. The acidity of the soil suitable for planting should be at the level of 5-6.5 pH, level groundwater should be at least 60 cm, and the soil temperature at a depth of 15-20 cm in winter time should not fall below -8°C.
How to plant strawberries correctly in the spring and which predecessors create the most favorable conditions in the soil for their growth? It’s great if there were strawberries growing on the plot cereal crops, the precursors of the nightshade family are less preferred. You should also know that strawberry bushes cannot be planted in the same place where they grew before. You can plant strawberries in the same place only after 2-3 years, so the soil will have time to be enriched with useful elements necessary for the full growth, flowering and ripening of berries.
How to plant strawberries correctly in spring and autumn
It is preferable to plant strawberry bushes in early spring or early autumn. Autumn planting is carried out between August 10 and September 25. Before planting, be sure to properly moisten the soil. Protracted or more late boarding plants will lead to a significant reduction in the yield of berry bushes. There is an opinion that strawberries can be planted in the summer, from July to August, using the two-line planting method. However, this is the exception rather than the rule, because in the southern part of Russia and Ukraine during the summer-autumn period there is little precipitation, and the soil and air temperatures rise so much that no measures of moistening and shading will give the desired result. In this case, there is a high risk of plant wilting and death.
Necessary measures before planting strawberries
A few days before it must be placed in a cool place. To prevent drying out and ensure easier survival of the plant, immediately before planting its roots are dipped in clay mash. Seedlings need to be planted in moist soil; it is important to protect the container with young seedlings from direct sunlight during work. The root system of the planted bush should be 7-10 cm in length; if it is larger, then it can be cut to the required size. If after planting there is a possibility of cold weather, then the seedlings need to be covered with film.
How to plant strawberries in spring? Some specifics need to be observed:
- Strawberries need to be weeded quite carefully, as various weeds can interfere with their growth and flowering.
- Before planting, it is advisable to disinfect the soil with appropriate compounds.
- Beds in which plants of the nightshade family were previously grown are not suitable for growing strawberries.
- Strawberry mustaches should be planted in moist soil, after keeping them in a container of water.
- Plant rosettes take root best on peat and sandy soil.
- When planning to plant strawberries in early spring, the soil should be prepared at the end of summer.
The photos below clearly show the rules on how to plant strawberries.
Soil care after planting
To prevent rapid dehydration of the soil and the formation of crusts, earth or humus should be poured into the area where plants are watered. If the soil seems compacted after planting, it needs to be loosened, this is done so that the roots and the plants themselves receive enough moisture, useful substances and oxygen. During prolonged dry weather, plants need to be watered quite often, up to several times a day.
Choosing seedlings
The root collar of a good seedling should be no more than 6 mm in diameter, and the root shoots should be no more than 7 mm. Seedling bushes should have 3-5 leaves, succulent and elastic roots white. The selected seedlings should be placed in the soil as quickly as possible, but if this is not possible, then they should be buried with damp and loose soil and placed in a dark place, a cool cellar or basement. Strawberry bushes can be stored in this form for several days.
Preparing the soil for planting
Strawberry bushes and berries are an excellent treat for strawberry nematode, wireworm, Colorado potato beetle and many other pests, so before planting it is best to check the soil for their presence. If found a large number of larvae, then alkaloid lupine should be planted on the site; also, for the purpose of cleaning and prevention, the land can be treated with ammonia water.
We water correctly
The quantity and quality of strawberry fruits largely depend on the amount of incoming moisture. So, in hot weather and a long dry period, the plant should be watered 1-2 times a day. Watering should be done moderately, in small doses, otherwise a large amount of water will lead to rotting of the berries, the appearance of diseases and pests.
- Before flowering, seedlings must be moistened by sprinkling.
- During the flowering period, the plant is watered at the root, and if possible, moisture should be prevented from getting on the leaves, flowers and berries.
- The optimal water temperature for irrigation is +16 o C.
- During the rainy season, the beds should be covered with plastic film.
Film structures for growing strawberries
With early spring planting plants a very relevant question: how to plant strawberries under film? Such shelter provides plants with easier development and earlier ripening. This method is very effective when growing early Film tunnels - these are the easiest shelters to construct. To do this, you need to install wire arches at a distance of 1 m from each other. The structure should be about half a meter high. Fix the film over the arches so that it does not sag, apply. For the convenience of carrying out excavation work in the film tunnel, one side of it must be well fixed, and a lath must be attached to the other side. Collect the film at the end of the greenhouse and tie it into a knot, attach it to pegs, which are then dug into the ground.
Caring for strawberries in a film cover
To control the temperature, place a thermometer inside. If the readings rise above +25 o C, then the greenhouse must be immediately opened and ventilated. In good sunny weather, when the bushes are flowering, the film can be removed for 1 day. At the time of harvesting, the film is completely removed.
In the summer, the berries are watered once a week, always in the early morning before the heat sets in, and always with warm water. Periodically you need to weed the beds, monitor the health of the plants, and exterminate pests in a timely manner.
In the autumn season, strawberries should be covered with fallen leaves, spruce branches, and straw. If there is no such covering material on the site, then the bushes can be hilled up without covering the growing points. At the same time, you need to apply fertilizer from a mixture of peat and compost.
from seeds?
Growing strawberries from seeds can give good results, but only with certain plant varieties. Hybrid varieties They are definitely not suitable for this.
To do this, you will need a container 10 cm deep; it should be filled 5 cm with special soil for seedlings and thoroughly watered. Place the seeds at an equal distance from each other and cover with clear glass; there is no need to sprinkle soil on top of the seeds. The box with soil and seeds should be placed in a warm place; when the first shoots appear, move it to the most illuminated place and remove the glass. After the first leaves appear, you need to pick them into separate pots and add special ones every two weeks. When the seedlings grow to optimal sizes, it can be planted in open garden soil. Be careful and carefully choose where to plant your strawberries. When landing, you need to adhere to some more rules:
- The plant should be planted shallow.
- The apical bud cannot be covered.
- Strawberries planted too shallowly can expose their roots and become diseased.
Strawberry seeds: how to collect them?
To successfully grow strawberries from seeds, you should use only the largest berries, which are harvested between July and August. The thin surface layer of the berry must be carefully removed; you can use a blade to rub it on a cloth. Dry the resulting material in the sun, disassemble the seeds and put them in a paper bag. They should be stored at room temperature before planting.
To grow strawberry seedlings from seeds, it is preferable to choose the following varieties: “Sakhalinskaya”, “Lakomka”, “Bogota”, “Mutofavorit” and others. In order to enjoy the berries longer, you can grow seedlings of early and later strawberries together.
To create the most favorable conditions To help strawberries grow, you can plant some useful crops next to them, such as parsley, spinach or bush beans. To repel slugs, planting parsley between strawberry rows is very effective. The berry can also exist together with beets, radishes, radishes, onions, lettuce, cabbage or garlic. Sage and borage are no less beneficial for strawberries. Covering the soil with pine and spruce needles will have a very beneficial effect on the taste of the fruit.
Growing strawberries using the line method
Quite uncomplicated. Damp and cloudy weather is ideal for planting. Methods for distributing seedlings on the soil can be different: double-line, double-line in beds or single-line. The most optimal is a two-line landing. At what distance to plant strawberries is the most frequently asked question beginner gardeners. It should be distributed at a distance of 15-20 cm, while the distance between the rows should be from 60 to 70 cm, and between the lines themselves - 30 cm. With the one-line method, the same proportions are observed, with the only difference being that there is only one line. The beds should be located from north to south.
IN Lately experienced gardeners and gardeners, in order to protect their plants, increasingly began to use the materials lutrasil or roofing felt. During the work, holes are made in the material at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other and strawberry bushes are planted. The hole can be made bayonet shovel, and the seedlings should not be located too deep in the soil and not too superficial, otherwise they will not take root.
Mistakes made when starting a strawberry plantation can be difficult to correct in the future. They will certainly affect the yield.
The most important factors when planting strawberries
The best varieties of strawberries will be those that are already grown in your area.
Planting strawberries correctly is not that difficult. You just need to take into account all the needs of this berry crop.
Selection of varieties
However, I also want to try super new products. In addition to old and modern domestic varieties, imported strawberry seedlings are imported into the country. Advertising is not always conscientious. It is difficult even for an experienced farmer to navigate the flow of information, let alone for beginners.
Experienced gardeners advise plant unfamiliar varieties in small quantities , check their behavior in the microclimate of a particular area, and allow the most successful forms to reproduce and establish a large plantation.
Seedling quality
The easiest way to select seedlings is to trust a local nursery with good recommendations.
Good strawberry seedlings meet four basic requirements:
- purity;
- young age;
- standard sizes;
- freedom from diseases and pests.
It can be quite difficult to determine compliance with a variety by eye. It's a matter of trusting the supplier. This is why you need to purchase strawberry seedlings from the most reliable places. Do not make bulk purchases in one place. It makes more sense to get a few seedlings from different producers.
Seedling assessment
The strawberry seedling should have healthy dark green leaves and developed roots without damage.
Visually, every gardener is able to assess how developed planting material. Large bushes consisting of several horns with brown roots are too old and not suitable for planting.
- have one strong stem, a green growing point, 3–5 developed leaves, light roots at least 5–7 cm long. The thickness of the root collar depends on the variety, but in any case, the seedlings should not be frail.
- Too large foliage on seedlings should also alert you . Such seedlings are often overfed with nitrogen. They have a hard time with landing in the ground. Good bushes are medium in size and have a vigorous appearance. Planting material with a closed root system takes root faster, but strong mustaches with open roots are also a good option (as long as they are not limp or rotten).
- Pale leaves occur on diseased strawberry plants, and they become wrinkled when damaged by a microscopic pest - strawberry mite . Such plants should not be purchased. Sometimes before planting it is recommended to disinfect strawberry seedlings: they are immersed for 15 minutes in a large container with water at a temperature +48 degrees; then the bushes are immediately cooled in cold water.
- Dark or light spots on autumn strawberry seedlings - signs. These diseases are not too terrible, and if there are few spots, then you should not refuse the desired purchase.
Timing for planting strawberries to get a good harvest
The optimal time for planting young strawberry mustaches is July-August.
At the end of August, we take the mustaches that have taken root over the summer and plant them in a new bed.
- September is suitable for southern regions.
- It is permissible to transfer disembarkation for spring , but then the harvest this season will be significantly smaller.
- Seedlings sown in February-March , transplanted into beds in May or June.
Microclimate of the site
Strawberry plants bear fruit successfully in various climatic zones, on any terrain. Even swampy lowlands are suitable for them, where other berry and fruit trees grow poorly.
The main thing is that in the spring there is no prolonged soaking of the soil. The ridges in such places are placed above the general ground level, and the first flowers are protected with agrofibre from late frosts.
If the garden is hilly, then rows of strawberries are placed across the slope, on terraces. This way moisture drains less and is better retained in the soil. On southern slopes, plantings dry out faster and require more frequent watering.
Wintering
We mulch strawberries with hay or straw for a successful winter.
It’s good if it accumulates on a strawberry plantation in winter moderate amount of snow . In windy places, snow retention is facilitated by various buildings, fences, and bushes. If the layer of snow is too thick, this is also bad: strawberry bushes can become rotten in such conditions.
In warm regions, shelter for the winter with old foliage is allowed.
Strawberries prefer well-lit places. Only some remontant varieties tolerate shading.
Neighborhood of crops and crop rotation
You cannot place a new strawberry in the place of an old one. The earth should rest from this berry plant for 4–5 years.
Some crops suffer from the same diseases and pests. Strawberries should not be planted after them or next to them. And then there are plants that don’t get along with anyone.
Bad neighbors and predecessors for strawberries
- Horseradish, fennel, Jerusalem artichoke, sunflower, buttercups, birch, Manchurian nut. These are universal invasive plants that have a bad effect on other crops.
- Raspberries, gooseberries, cherries. These berries have a common disease with strawberries - verticillium. The weevil bug damages the buds of raspberries and strawberries, so their close location plays into the hands of the harmful insect. In addition, both berries are susceptible. Tall raspberry and cherry bushes provide too thick shade, and aggressive shoots rush into the loose and damp space of the beds.
- Pumpkin and Nightshade crops (vegetables and flowers). Solanaceae family: potatoes, peppers, eggplants, physalis, tobacco, petunia, schisanthus, datura. Pumpkin family: zucchini, squash, cucumbers, pumpkins, watermelons, melons. Their representatives have common infections with strawberries (verticillium, rhizoctonia, viruses), as well as nematode worms. They also live on onions and peas, so it is sometimes advised not to plant strawberries after these vegetables. But you can also find the opposite opinion: onions and legumes are called among the good predecessors for strawberries.
- Phlox, asters, cloves, lilac, hops, clover, dandelion, plantain. These plants are also carriers of infections dangerous to strawberries.
Then it is better to grow strawberries
In a strawberry plot, it would be good to first grow mustard or oats.
Garlic and strawberries are good neighbors.
Some plants can repel diseases and dangerous insects. At the same time, they are quite compact and can be planted directly between the rows of strawberries:
- garlic,
- calendula,
- dwarf nasturtium,
- low-growing marigolds.
Sometimes tulips, herbs (parsley, lettuce, etc.), and radishes are planted in strawberry beds.
On mother plots for seedling production mustaches successfully take root in the shade under marigold or lettuce bushes.
The photo shows our site. As you can see, strawberries, tomatoes and potatoes grow nearby. The potatoes have just been planted.
Question about different varieties
Similar varieties of strawberries can be planted together.
Many novice gardeners do not know whether it is possible to place them nearby various varieties strawberries
Science knows that with such proximity, pollination occurs more successfully and the quality of the ovaries improves.
But there are certain restrictions related to the characteristics of care. Varieties are NOT planted together:
- with varying degrees of berry resistance to gray rot,
- early and late ripening,
- regular and repairable,
- small and large-fruited,
- mustachioed and small mustachioed (without mustache),
- winter-hardy and problematic,
- proven and new items.
Purchased seedlings grown by microclonal propagation are placed in a separate bed, away from any sources of infection. These bushes provide healthy planting material.
Step-by-step instruction
Alkaline soils (pH value greater than 7) are not suitable for strawberries. Soils with high acidity (pH less than 5) are pre-deoxidized - preferably in advance, for the previous crop.
Holes for strawberries are dug in loose, pre-prepared soil, aged for at least half a month.
Strawberries develop normally on neutral and slightly acidic soils; The bulk of gardens in our country are located in such areas.
Heavy clay soils are made more loose by adding river sand, lowland peat, and humus. On the contrary, clay is added to excessively light sandy soil.
Before planting, the beds must be fertilized, and not just in the holes, but by digging to a depth of about 30 cm. At the same time, the rhizomes of perennial weeds are removed. For 10 square meters of plantation it is advisable to add 10–20 buckets of compost (humus), complex mineral or organomineral fertilizers (from 500 grams to 2 kg - according to instructions), half a bucket wood ash . Then it is advisable to let the soil settle before planting the seedlings ( 15–30 days). During this time, the nutrients from the fertilizers will enter into beneficial interactions with the soil.
The bare earthen surface of strawberry beds is not the best option.
This berry crop bears fruit well on plantations covered with black agrofibre - a modern mulching material. It is spread on the beds before planting seedlings. If this option is not used, then after landing Be sure to lay out another mulch – straw, pine needles, lowland peat, dry leaves, cardboard, etc.
Bush placement scheme
The distance between strawberry plants has a huge impact on the future fate of the plantation.
Scheme for planning beds for strawberries.
Excessively sparse planting leads to a significant shortage of yield from the usable area, and thickening leads to shading, depletion of bushes, dampness, and the development of diseases and pests.
Varieties that are sensitive to the strawberry mite and prone to to damage to berries by gray rot . Good ventilation and plenty of sun are the best prevention.
The specific dimensions of the bush depend on the strawberry variety: it can be compact or spreading, loose or leafy. The approximate range of distances for row spacing is 60–80 cm, for holes in a row – 20–40 cm .
The immediate landing process
Bare-rooted strawberry seedlings should not be stored in water. They are buried in the ground at the level of the root collar, choosing a shaded place for this.
When the seedling is watered after planting, you need to make sure that the rosette does not go deeper into the soil under the influence of water.
Immediately before planting, the root system can be soaked in a stimulator (Zircon, Heteroauxin, humate, HB-1) or dusted with Kornevin.
The seedlings are transplanted to permanent place in cloudy, cool weather, preferably in the evening hours. New seedlings are shaded for several days (with white agrofibre, newspapers, burdock leaves).
The strawberry has taken root and is already pleasing with its berries.
Watering
The holes are watered twice - before and after planting the bushes.
When planting strawberries, it is very important to straighten the roots down and place the neck strictly at ground level. The roots should not stick out, but the growing point should not be buried either. The next day you need to check if all the hearts are on the surface. The sagging plants are slightly pulled up.
conclusions
If everything is done according to the rules, the strawberry plantation will reward you with a bountiful harvest.
Video about proper autumn planting of strawberries
Garden strawberries (large-fruited) are the most common berry crop grown by amateur gardeners. People call it strawberry. In this article, in order to avoid confusion, it is also called strawberry and we will talk about planting strawberries in open ground.
Ripe strawberries.
Biological features of culture
Strawberry - evergreen with a shortened rhizome and a small stem, which becomes woody some time after planting. It forms three types of shoots: horns, mustaches and peduncles.
- Horns or rosettes are formed from vegetative buds in the lateral part of the stem. The apical bud of the horn - the “heart” - is red. The larger it is, the bigger harvest will produce a plant in the first year. As the bush grows, the horns form higher and higher above the ground.
- Whiskers are long lashes with which young plants can be separated from the main bush. The most suitable for obtaining planting material are mustaches of the 1st and 2nd order.
- Peduncles are not suitable for obtaining planting material.
Strawberry bush diagram.
The peculiarity of strawberries is its constant renewal.
Requirements of strawberries to climatic factors
The berry plant is quite picky about environmental conditions.
- Temperature. Strawberries are quite winter-hardy; they can withstand temperatures down to -8-12°C without freezing. Under snow it can withstand frosts down to -35°C. Spring frosts can damage buds and flowers, but since the crop blooms extremely unevenly, the entire crop is never lost. In addition, the buds are more resistant to frost (-4-5°C) than open flowers, which can withstand temperatures down to -2°C.
- Light. The culture is photophilous, but can tolerate slight shading. It can be grown in the rows of a young garden, but under the crown of an adult tree in the dense shade the plants will produce small berries.
- Moisture. Strawberries are demanding of moisture and can tolerate short-term flooding, but do not grow on waterlogged soils. Drying out has a very bad effect on the development of culture. Not only does the yield of bushes decrease, but their growth and development also slows down.
Impact climatic factors the impact on strawberry yields can be significantly reduced by proper agricultural technology.
Where is the best place to plant strawberries?
The best place to plant strawberries is in well-lit areas with flat surface, protected from strong winds. The soil should be loose, well-cultivated, cleared of weeds, especially malicious ones (wheatgrass, bindweed, sow thistle, thistle, gooseberry). The depth of groundwater in the plot is at least 70 cm.
Not suitable for planting lowland strawberries where it accumulates cold air. In such places, the crop ripens 8-12 days later.
Steep slopes are also unsuitable for planting, since when the snow melts, the soil is washed out and plant roots are exposed.
Choose a place for planting strawberries that is level and well-lit.
Strawberries can be grown on any soil, but medium loam is the most preferred. When groundwater is close, plants are cultivated on high ridges. Sandy soils are the least suitable for the crop; plants on them suffer from both low nutrient content and lack of moisture. Before planting strawberries on such lands, they are cultivated.
Predecessors of culture
- garlic;
- greens (parsley, dill, lettuce, cilantro, basil);
- legumes;
- root vegetables (carrots, beets);
- all types of cabbage;
- turnip, radish, radish;
- bulbous flowers (tulips, daffodils), as well as marigolds.
But the best precursor is fertilized black or occupied steam. However, it is unlikely that gardeners can allow the land to sit empty for an entire season on their already not very large plots.
Bad predecessors:
- potatoes, tomatoes;
- all pumpkin plants (cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, melon, watermelon).
Bushes after potatoes are especially severely depressed. Strawberries do not tolerate root exudates of this crop.
How to prepare a bed for planting strawberries
The beds for planting are prepared 1-2 months in advance; the soil must settle and become stable. Strawberries love loose, fertile soils, so digging should be done as deep as possible: on weakly fertile soils 18-20 cm, on chernozems - 25-30 cm.
Preparing the bed for planting garden strawberries.
Strawberries do not respond well to direct application of fertilizers for planting because they do not tolerate high concentrations of salts in the soil. Therefore, they are used either under a predecessor or when preparing a bed. The applied fertilizers are embedded deeply so that they dissolve in the ground and become accessible to plants.
On loamy soils, add a bucket of completely rotted manure, peat or compost per 1 m2. In the absence of organic fertilizers, use nitroammophoska or nitrophoska (2 tablespoons/m2).
When planting strawberries on sandy soils, increased doses of manure, compost or humus are added to the beds - 2-3 buckets / m2. You can add turf soil and 3-4 kg of sawdust.
On heavy loams and clayey soils, use river sand with organic fertilizers. Per 1 m2 add 3-4 kg of sand and 2-3 buckets of manure or compost. Fertilizers are thoroughly mixed with the soil and embedded deeply.
Strawberries grow well in neutral and slightly acidic soils (pH 5.5-7.0). If the pH is below 5.5, then liming is carried out. It is better to add dolomite or limestone flour, since their effect continues throughout the entire period of growing the crop in one place (4 years). The application rate is 3-4 kg/m2.
Lime is not applied directly to strawberries, but is applied 2-3 years before planting the plantation for previous crops. Lime can be replaced with ash; it acts much softer and contains microelements necessary for strawberry bushes. Ash is added for digging at a rate of 2-3 cups/m2.
On alkaline soils, the site is acidified. For this, peat, sawdust, and rotted pine litter (10 kg/m2) are used. Their action is soft and slow, but long lasting. If it is necessary to slightly acidify the soil, then physiologically acidic mineral fertilizers are used: ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate. Ash should not be added to highly alkaline soils.
Selection of strawberry seedlings
When choosing seedlings Special attention pay attention to the condition of the bushes. They should be fully formed with 3-5 straightened leaves. The absence of damage, spots, or wrinkles on the leaves is an indicator of the health of the seedlings.
Only healthy seedlings are selected for planting.
The highest quality are considered to be squat rosettes with a large pink or red central bud. The development of the strawberry bush and the first year's harvest depend on its size. With a “heart” diameter of more than 20 mm, it is possible to obtain a harvest of up to 300 g of berries in the first year. Bushes with long elongated petioles and a green “heart” will give a very small harvest in the first year or there will be no berries at all.
Choose strong, healthy specimens; weak plants will not only be less productive, but they are more susceptible to diseases and pests. If there are only worst plants, then it’s better not to take anything at all than to buy obviously problematic bushes.
If strawberry seedlings are already blooming, then select specimens with large flowers- in the future these will be large berries. You should not purchase seedlings from small flowers, and, especially, one that has no buds at all.
When starting a new plantation, 3-5 plants of each variety are selected in order to subsequently obtain planting material from them. Best option- this is the purchase of strawberries of 3-4 varieties.
When purchasing seedlings with an open root system, pay special attention to the roots. They should be light, at least 5 cm long. If the roots are dark, it means the plant is weak and sick, and it may not take root after planting.
The place of the growth point (“heart”) should be thin. The thicker it is, the older the bush from which the rosette was taken. The berries on such plants are very small, and the harvest lasts only 1 year.
Planting strawberries in open ground
The strawberry plantation is being formed gradually. The most thoughtful way of growing is to place rows of plants on the plot of different ages. Every year a new bed is laid out, and the oldest strawberries are dug up. Then it will be possible to gradually replace old plants on the site with young strawberry bushes.
Strawberry seedlings of different ages.
Planting dates, when is it better to plant strawberries
The planting date determines the size and quality of the first harvest. The main periods for planting strawberry bushes are spring, second half of summer and autumn.
Spring planting time highly dependent on the growing region and weather conditions. IN middle lane and in Siberia it occurs in early-mid May, in the southern regions - mid-late April. The earlier the seedlings are planted, the larger the harvest will be next year. During the growing season, the bushes will grow stronger and produce a large number of flower buds.
The main disadvantage of spring planting strawberries is the lack of planting material. What is sold are either rosettes obtained from old bushes, or last year's latest tendrils. Neither one nor the other is high-quality planting material. The horns of old bushes are not young seedlings, but the same old bush, divided into rosettes. There will be no harvest from such plants, no matter how well they are cared for.
Whiskers of the 5th-8th order are the weakest on the garland and to obtain berries they must be grown within a year.
Summer planting time is the most optimal. Determine the most favorable time landings can be done by whiskers. When mustaches of the 1st and 2nd order appear, it is time to plant the seedlings. In the remaining time, the bushes will form a powerful root system and go into winter fully prepared. If the deadlines are met, the harvest of 1 year should be 100-150 g of berries per plant.
Autumn term(September-October) is the worst in terms of obtaining berries for the next year. The bushes will have time to take root, but will go into winter poorly prepared, not fully formed, will produce few flower buds, and the harvest will be very small (20-30 g per bush).
In addition, such plants do not tolerate winter quite well: the percentage of loss can be very high. In the northern regions, sometimes up to half of the strawberry bushes freeze.
Autumn planting of strawberries is possible only if it is necessary to obtain a large number of runners for the next year. Then in the spring, all flower stalks are removed from these plants, thereby stimulating the formation of as many tendrils as possible. In the first year, the bushes produce the most powerful tendrils, which produce the best varietal plants.
It should be taken into account that early varieties at optimal time plantings yield half as much as mid and late plantings - this is a feature of strawberries.
Treatment of seedlings before planting
Seedlings brought from a nursery are often infected with pests and diseases. To destroy pests, strawberries are heated in water at a temperature of 50°C, immersing the plant along with the entire pot in water for 15-20 minutes. The procedure is repeated twice with an interval of 30-40 minutes.
IN hot water most pests die (mites, stem nematodes, root aphids, etc.).
To prevent diseases, seedlings are completely immersed in the solution for 5-7 minutes. copper sulfate or HOM (1 teaspoon) and table salt (3 tablespoons), diluted in 10 liters of water. Then it is rinsed with water and planted.
Strawberry planting schemes
There are several strawberry planting schemes: compacted, 30×60, 40×60, 40×70.
Condensed planting. Strawberries have a very clear pattern: the denser the seedlings are planted, the higher the first harvest. For compact planting, plants of late varieties are placed according to a 20×60 cm pattern (20-25 bushes/m2).
The row spacing should not be compacted, since after the first picking of the berries, the strawberries are thinned out. If this is not done, then next year it will produce very few berries. After fruiting, every second bush is dug up and placed on separate bed according to the 40x60 cm scheme. Compacted plantings are no longer suitable for these bushes; this scheme is only suitable for seedlings.
Seedlings of early varieties are planted at a distance of 15 cm from each other with a row spacing of 60 cm. After picking the berries, they must also be thinned out so that the gap between the bushes is 30 cm.
Planting strawberries according to the 30x60 cm pattern. Strawberries produce high yields only when the plants are free in the garden and there is no competition from other bushes (with the exception of the first year). Early varieties of strawberries are planted according to the 30x60 cm pattern.
Between varieties in the garden, a distance of 80 cm is left, it is necessary so that the mustaches do not intersect. Confusion with varieties should be avoided at all costs.
Planting according to the pattern 40x60 cm. Mid-season and late varieties are placed according to this scheme, since their bushes are more powerful, forming large rosettes.
Planting pattern 40×70 cm. This scheme is used when planting strawberries of mid-season and late varieties on highly fertile chernozem soils.
Bushes can be planted in a single-row or double-row manner.
How to plant strawberries correctly
Planting is carried out on cloudy days or in the evening, since during the daytime and in hot sunny weather the leaves evaporate a lot of water. And since the bushes have not yet taken root, and water does not flow into the leaves, the plants may wither. This negatively affects the further development of culture.
When planting in spring blossoming strawberries remove all flower stalks, since the main thing is rooting and proper formation of plants. The harvest of seedlings only depletes the plant, which subsequently leads to its weakening and poor wintering.
Proper planting of seedlings.
When planting plants, you should not bury or raise the “heart”, since in the first case this leads to rotting of the seedlings, and in the second - to their drying out. The “heart” should be located at soil level.
When planting strawberries, no fertilizers are used; they must be applied in advance. The roots are well straightened; they should not be allowed to twist or bend upward. If the roots are longer than 7 cm, they are shortened, but they should not be less than 5 cm.
When planting, a mound is poured into the hole, the roots are evenly distributed over it and sprinkled with damp soil. After this, the seedlings are watered abundantly. You can spill the planting holes with water and plant the bushes directly in the water, then after planting there is no watering.
Planting strawberries under black covering material
Black film or agrofibre (dark spunbond, lutarsil) with a thickness of 100 microns is used as a covering material. When using thinner material, weeds will grow through it. It is spread on the bed in a continuous layer 1-1.2 m wide.
The material is secured along the edges by pressing it to the ground with bricks, boards or sprinkling with earth. Then cross-shaped slits are made on its surface, in which holes are dug and seedlings are planted in them. The slots are made after laying the material on the bed. The bushes are pressed tightly, otherwise the mustache will grow and take root under the film. There is no need to be afraid that the plants will be cramped; the film and agrofibre can stretch.
The ridges are made high and slightly sloping so that water drains and enters the ground along the edges. For the winter, the covering material is removed, since in winter the plants under it are damped out (especially under the film). It is better to grow strawberries using a single-row method under covering material.
The advantages of this planting method:
- a significant increase in yield, since the black surface heats up more strongly in the sun, the soil warms up faster and deeper;
- berries are practically not affected by gray rot;
- weed growth is suppressed;
- less labor-intensive growing process.
Flaws:
- Uniform watering of the bushes is almost impossible. Watering plants at the roots is also very difficult because the slots are small and it is difficult for enough water to get into them;
- the film does not allow air to pass through, causing the roots to rot;
- weeds are actively growing through strawberry bushes;
- too expensive growing method
When growing strawberries under agrofibre or film, it is necessary to install an irrigation system. This is economically justified only on large farms. On individual garden plots it is too labor-intensive and expensive.
The optimal lifespan of a plantation is 4 years. Then the yields sharply decrease, the berries become small and sour, and the need arises to renew the strawberry plantings.
There are many ways to plant strawberries, and each of them deserves special attention. Before choosing the most suitable option, you should find out when and how you can plant strawberries so that they give a rich harvest in late spring or early summer.
What determines the timing?
Strawberries can be planted in spring, summer or autumn. The time is chosen based on the climatic conditions of the area, weather and other factors. Most often this is May, mid-July or late August. During these periods, as a rule, there is no intense heat, due to which the plant takes root well and produces the following year. good harvest.
The time is also chosen depending on the type of plant root system. Bare-rooted seedlings should be used in the spring, or mid-summer at the latest. Seedlings with closed system- during the whole year.
In the next few weeks after planting, it is necessary to regularly water the strawberries, as well as feed them with organic or mineral fertilizers. Most often, humus, manure, potassium and nitrogen fertilizers are used for this purpose.
Spring period
Planting strawberries in the spring - at the very beginning - allows the bushes to develop much better and faster than if it were carried out at a later period. This activity can be started as soon as warm, sunny weather sets in and it becomes possible to carry out field work.
When planting seedlings in the spring, it is necessary to correctly calculate the timing of its implementation. If this process is delayed, the seedlings may die.
Planting should be done before the onset of heat. As a rule, the best period is at the end of April and beginning of May.
Autumn period
Some experienced gardeners They prefer to work with strawberries in the fall or late summer. The best time The period of planting is considered to be from August 15 to September 20. In the time remaining before the onset of frost, the plants will have time to take root and become strong enough to produce a good harvest the following year.
Before work, it is necessary to moisten the soil well by filling it with a large amount of clean and warm water. For this purpose, you can use the usual garden watering can or hose.
Autumn planting of strawberries - video
A few important rules
Before planting strawberries in spring or autumn, you should perform the following steps:
- About a month before the start field work the land plot must be disinfected. For this purpose, special chemicals are used to prevent the development of strawberry diseases such as gray rot, powdery mildew etc.
- Seedlings should be stored in a plastic bag or in a container filled with a small amount clean water(approximately 100 ml).
The land plot is thoroughly cleared of plant roots and weeds, since during fruiting they can cause considerable harm to the strawberries. It is advisable that nightshade crops have not previously grown on the land. Under no circumstances should you use those areas of land where potatoes were previously grown.
Many people are interested in where to plant strawberries. For this purpose, the place where onions, garlic, marigolds, petunias, dill, legumes or grains previously grew is suitable. In this case, the seedlings will be provided with the microelements necessary for nutrition. As a result, the harvest will be large and abundant.
Where else can you plant strawberries? To get a good harvest, experienced gardeners recommend giving preference to shaded and well-ventilated places. For example, ideal option there will be a plot near the garden. 
Strawberry selection
Get quality material for planting using the following methods:
Preparatory work
Before you start planting strawberries in spring or autumn, the following set of measures is carried out:
Only after completing all the above steps can you proceed to planting strawberry bushes. When planning this event in the spring preliminary preparation land plot It is recommended to produce in late summer. Accordingly, if work is planned for the fall, the site is prepared in the spring.
Types of planting strawberries
There are 2 main varieties:
- Traditional.
This option contributes to harvesting over the next 3-4 years.
After this period, the strawberries completely “degenerate” and stop producing crops. Therefore, the berries are transplanted to another place. Please note that the most suitable time for planting strawberries using this method is spring.
- Natural agrotechnical. It includes special care for strawberries and constant feeding of the soil. As a result, a good harvest can be obtained on the same plot for 7-8 years.
Traditionally, strawberries are planted in the ground using ribbons consisting of two rows. In addition, it can be produced in wide beds on which strawberry bushes are placed in a checkerboard pattern.
With the agricultural method, beds are made, which should be placed from north to south. A space is left between the seedlings, which at first glance may seem too wide. However, it should be remembered that the bushes will grow over the next 5–8 years and will eventually occupy all the available space.
Bed parameters
Let's take a closer look at what distance to plant strawberries. This point is quite important, since if you leave too little space between the seedlings, they will have nowhere to grow. On the other hand, if you allocate too much space for them, most of land will be wasted.
- When planting strawberries in rows, space 15–25 cm between seedlings. Leave a distance of 40–60 cm between rows.
If beds 1 m wide are used, strawberries are planted in a checkerboard pattern so that there is 50 cm between the bushes. Indentations 50 cm wide are made between the beds themselves.
- With the agricultural method, rows are made, the width of which is 50 cm. There should be a distance of at least 50 cm between them. Plant bushes are planted in a row, leaving a space of 50 cm between them.
To obtain a good harvest of berries, proper planting of strawberries is necessary. Before the procedure itself, prepare the seedlings:
- If the strawberries are in a plastic pot or cup, they should be watered an hour before work.
- If you plan to use plants with an open root system, they must be immersed in the HB-101 solution for 10 hours (take 3 drops of the drug per 1 liter of water).
If the seedlings are in peat pots, they should be immersed in water for 30 seconds.
Now let's look at how to plant strawberries correctly:
- After preparing the seedlings, it is necessary to trim the roots so that their length does not exceed 10 cm. This is required so that the root system does not curl up.
- Before starting work, you need to dig holes up to 25 cm deep. A small and neat mound is formed at the bottom, on which the seedling is placed, making sure that the root system does not bend. It should go down smoothly along the slopes of the hill.
- After planting the plant, the soil should be well moistened with water, pouring 0.5 liters of HB-101 solution under each bush (take 1-2 drops of the drug for each liter of clean water).
- After all actions have been completed, the soil surface is mulched with a thin layer of compost. Then the plants are covered with a thin covering material on top for 14 days. This is necessary in order to create a greenhouse effect and prevent the seedlings from drying out.
Features of proper planting of strawberries - video tutorial
First, let's figure out how strawberries differ from wild strawberries. Strawberry bushes are taller, the leaves are wrinkled, and the flower stalks rise above the light-colored leaves. The berries are smaller than strawberries. Gardeners often call garden strawberries strawberries. The technology of planting and growing is absolutely the same, so in our article we will not pay attention to the difference between crops. Whatever you call this sweet, juicy berry, its taste will not change.
Rules for success:
- High-quality planting material.
- Properly organized planting area.
- Proper landing.
- Varieties of strawberries (small-fruited, large-fruited, remontant - continuously bear fruit throughout spring, summer and autumn);
- The best predecessors: garlic, onion, dill, petunias, marigolds. The berries are returned to their old place after 5 years. If there is little food, the first collection is the largest, then the smaller ones.
Planting material can be obtained in several ways:
- buy;
- grow it yourself from seeds;
- take mustaches from other bushes;
- dividing the bush (if the variety does not produce a mustache).
Here you need to decide on the timing of planting. The berries are planted in autumn, spring and summer. When is the best time to plant strawberries? We think it is better to plant it in May, mid-July - early August. During these periods it is not very hot, the seedlings take root well and produce a good harvest the next year. All you need to do is water and feed the plants.
If we buy seedlings, then we give preference to plants with a closed root system, that is, in cups. It should be an annual seedling with roots at least 5 cm long and 2-3 well-developed leaves. If there are flower stalks on the bush, it is better to remove them so as not to deplete the plant. The goal is to get a large, strong bush in the first year, and only then a harvest.
Growing strawberries from seeds
Good varieties: Baron Solemacher, Yellow miracle, Fresco, Sashenka, Moscow delicacy. Strawberry seeds germinate only in light. With artificial supplementary lighting, you can start sowing seeds in January. They are usually sown in March, when the day length increases. Spread it on the surface of the soil without sprinkling it with anything. It is convenient to sow in transparent food containers with a lid. It turns out to be a mini-greenhouse. Seeds can germinate for a month, sometimes a month and a half. To stimulate germination, it is recommended to spray the seeds with a solution of HB-101 (1 drop per liter of water). The same solution is used to water the soil.
Supplemental lighting for seeds can and should be done using table lamp. A conventional incandescent light bulb is replaced with an energy-saving cold-glow one.
The table lamp is placed at a height of 15 cm above the bowl or container with seeds and is illuminated for 12, or better yet, 14-16 hours a day.
We must warn you that on a cold windowsill the seeds are in no hurry to germinate and die in the ground. To do this, organize a “warm” window sill - pieces of foam plastic are placed under the containers.
Large-fruited varieties can be sown in peat tablets. There are usually 5-10 seeds in a bag, so the tablets won’t take up much space. The tablets are soaked in water or a solution of the drug HB-101, diluting a drop per liter of water. They are also placed in a bowl under a film, creating greenhouse conditions.
When cotyledon leaves appear, you cannot immediately open the mini-greenhouse - the sprouts will fall and die. There was a certain humidity in the container under the lid, and the apartment air was dry - the leaves could not cope with the evaporation of moisture and dried out. The film (cover) is removed only when real leaves appear. Open gradually over several days so that the sprouts get used to the low humidity of the surrounding air. Drops of condensation from the lid must be removed daily.
Site preparation
Before planting strawberries, prepare the place. The area for strawberries is set aside in a sunny, ventilated place. There are traditional and natural agricultural techniques for growing crops. Traditional planting (regular) involves growing strawberries and obtaining the maximum yield in one area for 3-4 years. The bush bears fruit until it completely exhausts its strength. Then we usually say “the berry has degenerated” and almost completely renew the strawberry by replanting it in another place. Natural agricultural technology allows you to obtain a full harvest for up to 7-8 years in one place due to constant fertilizing and special care.
According to tradition, they are planted in ribbons of two rows with a distance between rows of 30 cm, between ribbons 60 cm, keeping a distance of 15-25 cm between the berry bushes. Or in beds 100 cm wide, the bushes are planted in a checkerboard pattern every 50 cm, leaving a gap of 50 cm between the rows .
Natural agricultural technology involves a slightly different planting pattern. The beds are made 50 cm wide. The bushes are planted in one row every 50 cm. The gap between the rows is 50 cm. Yes, no matter what method you choose, place the beds from north to south. At first it seems that there is a lot of space left for seedlings. But remember, the berry will grow in one area for 5-8 years, the bush will grow and occupy all the free space.
The area is cleared of weeds. Rotted organic matter is added at the rate of 3 buckets/m2. You can add organic matter directly into the wells. Pits measuring 25x25 cm and the same depth are dripping. The wells are filled with the mixture:
- compost bucket;
- a bucket of horse manure (rotted);
- a bucket of soil from the garden bed;
- 2 cups of ash.
Instead of manure, you can take a bucket of compost mixed with 2 liters of vermicompost.
How to plant strawberries correctly
If seedlings:
- in a plastic pot - spilled an hour before planting;
- V peat tablet– immerse in water for 30 seconds;
- open root system - kept for 10 hours in a solution of HB-101 (3 drops per liter of water).
The length of the roots is left to 10 cm, the excess is cut off. If you have seedlings with a closed root system, then you can plant them throughout the summer. Seedlings with an open root system are planted in spring and August.
Although strawberries are the most common berry on plantations, many gardeners make mistakes when planting them. At the bottom of the planting hole we make a mound and place the plant on it. Make sure that the roots do not bend. As a rule, this happens when they are too long. In this case, we boldly cut off the excess with pruning shears, shortening the roots to a length of 10 cm. We also make sure that the roots do not bend upward, which is also wrong. Ideally, they should go straight down the mound.
Another important point. Many people deepen the plant too much. With deep planting, the central bud (heart) is below the soil level. This should not be allowed under any circumstances, as the heart will begin to rot and rot. The plant will most likely die. In the case of shallow planting, the seedlings are also doomed to rapid death, as the heart dries out. The central bud should barely protrude above the soil level. After planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, plus 0.5 liters of HB-101 solution (93 drops per liter of water) is poured under each bush.
Next, the strawberries are mulched with compost and covered with the thinnest covering material No. 17 (2 layers) or No. 30 for two weeks. It is simply thrown over plants without arcs. Why cover? The root system has not yet started. The leaves evaporate moisture, but the roots cannot yet deliver water from the soil to them. Plants may dry out. A greenhouse effect is created under the covering material, and seedlings take root better.
The question is often asked what materials can be used as mulch. You can take grass, hay, straw, pine branches, rotted sawdust, rotted compost. The thickness of the compost layer should be 5-6 cm. The thickness of the layer of hay, straw, dry grass should be 10 cm. Mulch is added every month throughout the season.
Methods for planting strawberries
We have decided on the varieties, everything is clear with the planting schemes, and we have chosen the dates. Now let's talk about in various ways growing garden strawberries.
Planting with mulch film
We lay agrofibre. We place the corners of the mulching film in the holes and sprinkle earth around the perimeter. After we have laid the agrofiber, we begin planting strawberries. We make a small cross-shaped cut just enough to barely push the roots through. Then, with our hands under the film, we tear a small hole and lay the roots of the seedling. Fill with compost and water.
If you make a big cut, weeds will come out and draw all the moisture from the soil. Large seedlings should not be planted under mulching film. Attention, if you decide to plant berries this way, you must provide the plant with food for 4 years in advance. For this purpose, for each square meter add 2-3 buckets of rotted compost.
Planting strawberries on a straw mattress
We'll tell you interesting way planting garden strawberries on pea straw. After harvesting the peas, the tops are dug into the soil, forming straw mattress. The soil is watered with nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen ensures good compatibility of pea tops. After about 3 weeks, strawberries are planted in this place. A high quality mustache is important. A large mustache produces large berries the next year. The larger the planting material, the taller the plants will be and the thicker the flower stalks.
Strawberry seedlings are planted at a distance of 40 cm from each other. The row spaces are not dug up, but cleared of weeds. You can plant directly from the edge of the bed, so that in the future the plant can use the soil between the rows. 3-4 rows of berries are placed on the garden bed. The width of the bed is calculated so that on each side you can easily reach the middle for caring for the plantings.
After planting, water the soil well to create dirt. It’s not for nothing that there is a proverb about strawberries: “If you plant them in the mud, you will be a prince.”
Antennae often have underdeveloped roots. The next day after planting, the seedlings may wilt in the sun. To make the rooting process a little easier for them, the ground around them is sprinkled with hay for the next 3-4 days for shading. You can remove the hay later, or you can add more, to create a nice thick layer of mulch.
Pyramid bed
Beds located upwards and taking up little space are relevant for small children. summer cottages. To organize a pyramid bed, you need 4 wooden bottomless boxes and a piece of pipe with a diameter of 40 mm and a length of 2-2.5 meters. You can make the boxes yourself.
The pipe is secured and holes are drilled along the entire length of the pipe using an electric drill. They are needed for watering the pyramid beds. There is no need to make large holes; they can become clogged with earth. Water will find any hole anyway.
Choose a place for the pyramid and drive the pipe to a depth of 80-90 cm so that it holds tightly. By the way, no holes are made in the part of the pipe that will be underground.
Then they take the largest box and put it on top of the pipe so that it runs exactly in the center, we fix it in the ground. You can bury the box or prop it open with pegs: drive stakes into each corner with inside boxes
Next, pour good fertile soil into the box, filling it to the brim and compacting it moderately. So all the remaining boxes are strung on the pipe. On each subsequent one a smaller box is placed. Four to five tiers will be enough to maintain the stability of the pyramid and avoid problems with watering, caring for berries, and harvesting.
In addition, you need to make sure that there is free space for strawberry seedlings. There should be a piece of pipe sticking out above the last tier. It is easy to water the plants from above through the pipe by inserting a hose. Opposite each tier there are necessarily holes through which the soil will be moistened.
Your berry will grow no worse than in an ordinary garden bed. In summer, the bushes will bloom and the pyramid will turn into a pink and white flowerbed, pleasing to the eye.
If you follow all the rules, the plants planted for you will take root well, take root and you will be guaranteed excellent harvest strawberries By the way, do not forget that strawberries are recognized as one of the most delicious and healthy berries in the world!
