To lay a brick kiln with your own hands, you must know how to properly lay out a brick kiln, what brick and mortar to choose for this, and also what mistakes should not be made. Next, we will try to consider in as much detail as possible the technology of laying a brick stove, and if you do not dare to carry out this activity yourself, the knowledge gained will allow you to monitor how correctly the hired stove-maker does it!

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Materials and tools for laying a stove

We draw your attention to the fact that there are many different bricklaying schemes, so if you decide to lay brick for the first time, we recommend that you choose a simpler drawing. This will not change the efficiency of the sauna stove too much, but the likelihood of successfully creating a stove will be higher!

So, to lay a brick oven with your own hands you will need the following materials:

Fireclay brick (for laying the firebox)
Red refractory brick or (for laying the stove and chimney)
Clay and coarse sand (to create a solution)
Stove casting (fireplace grate, ash door and firebox, views, chimney cleaning wells, cast iron stove, grate, etc.)
Asbestos cord
Water heating tank
Galvanized wire
Steel corner
Waterproofing material (roofing felt)
Steel tape

From the above materials you can make a simple brick stove for a bathhouse, but in order to make more functional unit, will be required additional elements indicated on the drawing.

Tools for laying a brick oven with your own hands:

Grinder with a metal wheel and a diamond wheel (for cutting brick)
Electric drill with mixer attachment
Container for the solution (a 10-liter bucket is best)
Master OK
Building level
Plumb
Wooden mallet
Tape measure and marker

These are the most important tools for DIY stove laying, but the list can be even longer depending on the complexity of the project.

Drawings, projects and diagrams for laying a brick stove for a bath

We present to your attention the most popular schemes for laying a brick sauna stove:

Having familiarized ourselves with the brick kiln laying schemes, as well as the sequence and features of the order, we move on to the main process!

Photo master class on laying a brick oven

The technology of laying a brick stove is very difficult to explain in words, so we present to your attention the process of laying a brick sauna stove based on the so-called photo steps:

If you still do not understand how to properly lay a brick oven with your own hands, we also provide you with the following video lessons:

We hope that the information provided clearly explained to you the entire process of laying a brick stove for a bathhouse with your own hands. Finally, I would like to pay attention to some points related to the technology of laying a brick stove for a bath!

Tips for laying a brick stove for a bath yourself

Many novice stove-makers make mistakes that seem simple at first glance regarding the laying of a brick stove. The result of these errors is the destruction of the furnace, smoke bath room and the worst thing is a fire!

So, when laying a brick oven with your own hands, use the following recommendations:

Under a brick stove for a bath, be sure to create and waterproof it using roofing felt!
During the construction of the entire bathhouse, save the clay from the trench; it will be needed to create a solution when laying the stove.
The ratio of clay and sand when creating masonry mortar should be 2:1 or 3:1. To determine how good the solution is, dip a wooden stick into it; there should be a layer of clay about 2 mm left on it. If the layer is larger, sand must be added to the solution; if it is smaller, clay must be added.
When laying furnace castings in rows of bricks, leave a half centimeter gap between the brick and the casting, because During the heating process, the metal expands and can destroy the brickwork.
In the process of laying a brick oven, you will encounter the fact that the bricks will either not reach the end of the row or protrude by several millimeters. This is due to the fact that the brick is of poor quality. To correct the situation, saw off the protruding parts with a grinder or make the seams a little thicker.
Often we are faced with the fact that the size of the grate exceeds the size of the hole prepared for it in the firebox. In this case, it is recommended to saw off the grate a little using a grinder with a metal circle.
Laying a brick stove for a bathhouse must be done strictly plumb and using a building level.
Be sure to install cleaning wells in places where the internal chimney channels turn. Soot accumulates most often in these places.
Make sure that when laying the stove, the bricks do not come into contact with the stove casting. These places must be additionally protected by wrapping an asbestos cord around the casting.
To lay the firebox, use fireclay brick; it can withstand temperatures above 1600 o C. For laying the stove, you can use red refractory brick, which is able to maintain its properties. physical properties at temperatures up to 850 o C.
Do not experiment with the diameter, size of the firebox and dimensions of the stove. All sizes must be selected according to general standards.
If there are wooden elements(for example, finishing with lining boards), they must be treated with protective materials, which will not only prevent rotting of the wood, but also protect it from spontaneous combustion.
Well, the main thing that should be said is that do not decide to lay a brick oven with your own hands if you have absolutely no experience in this matter. Remember, “the miser pays twice,” so if your furnace is built incorrectly, a specialist will take several times more money to reconstruct it.

That's all we wanted to tell you about how to properly lay a brick stove for a bathhouse with your own hands! We hope that from this article you have learned a lot of new things for yourself and that laying a stove yourself will become an easier task for you!

Simple technology for laying a brick oven with your own hands

Step-by-step laying of a brick stove for a bath

The main points of laying a brick oven with your own hands

A do-it-yourself sauna stove is made when the devices industrial production the homeowner is not happy with something. The thing is that a bathhouse is characterized by the creation of a unique microclimate, since it maintains a strictly defined indicator of humidity and temperature, depending on the type of steam room. The steam room can have a wide variety of configurations, sizes and placement of shelves. As a result, store-bought stoves do not always heat it efficiently, and you have to make necessary design on one's own.

Requirements for homemade sauna stoves

Homemade sauna stoves in any case must meet certain requirements. For example, they must be absolutely safe in terms of fire. This is especially important when a home-made iron sauna stove is installed in rooms with wooden walls. At the same time, they must maintain a comfortable temperature level in your bath.

In addition, there are also purely technical points, which any oven should withstand. Firstly, according to general requirement In bath art, to create light and pleasant steam, it is necessary that the stones in the oven heat up to 200-700 °C. To do this, it is necessary to properly equip the firebox and chimney.

If the sauna stove is properly welded or laid out, it will maintain a temperature near the floor of 40-45 °C and under the shelf of 90-100 °C during steaming and washing. This heat will allow the steamer to stay in the bathhouse for a long time without any damage to his health. In this case, the heat must remain in the stove for at least 3 hours from the moment the fuel supply to it ends.

Secondly, it must be equipped with an effective system for removing carbon monoxide, smoke and other combustion products. Otherwise, instead of receiving pleasure, steamers face serious harm to health, and even death from suffocation. The ventilation system and chimney can be either natural or powered by a blower.

Thirdly, you need to choose the right place to install the stove. So, for example, installing a stove in a bathhouse built with your own hands is carried out exclusively on a specially built foundation. This protects the bathhouse from fire and allows you to build walls and other structural elements lighter foundation structure.

A metal welded stove must also be installed in accordance with special requirements; for example, in order to protect the building from fire, it is sometimes lined with bricks. In the case where this cannot be done, it is necessary to install it at some distance from the walls, and place a thick sheet of asbestos on the floor under it.

Optimal technical parameters of homemade sauna stoves

Made with your own hands, it must also meet some optimal technical parameters. For example, it must have a sufficiently high heat transfer power, since with its help the air and stones are heated for steam generation in the steam room, and in addition, also the air in adjacent rooms. For normal functioning of the bath complex, the stove power must be at least 28 kW.

The design of the stove must be adapted to the room in which it will be placed. For example, there are designs with open and closed heaters, as well as entire steam generators, which require a large area for their placement.

Majority technical parameters stoves directly affect fuel consumption and, accordingly, the payment for it.

Besides, everything homemade stoves it is necessary to design and assemble taking into account the characteristics of the floor or foundation of both the furnace, in the case of its construction, and the entire building. The fact is that if you, for example, weld a massive metal stove, then the floor of the bathhouse may simply not support it, but it is also necessary to take into account the weight of the fuel loaded into it.

Thus, when planning to make a stove for a steam room yourself, you will first need to make calculations and find out whether your design can, in principle, be placed in a bathhouse. Next, you need to draw up a construction plan or, better yet, a project. By adhering to them, you will be able to optimally equip your bathhouse, ensuring its efficient heating.

Types of stoves for baths

If you are planning to make such a device yourself, you should select drawings for this taking into account the material from which you plan to make it, as well as the type of fuel with which you are going to heat the bathhouse. The following designs are currently popular:

metal;
brick.

Depending on the type of fuel used, stoves for a sauna complex can be divided into several categories:

wood and coal fired stoves;
furnaces operating using gas as fuel;
electric stoves for baths.

If you know how to weld a sauna stove with your own hands, you should also have an idea about the advantages of this design.

For example, metal stoves are resistant even to serious mechanical damage, heat up quickly and have long term operation. At the same time, among metal stoves, cast iron products are most in demand, since they do not deform under the influence of heat and retain heat for a long time. In everyday life, they are most often made from of stainless steel thickness of at least 5 mm.

The disadvantage of metal stoves is their high fire hazard, since at high temperatures the metal becomes hot, and if flammable material gets on it, a fire may occur. Stone stoves are free from this drawback, but they are expensive and they are afraid mechanical damage, and not every stove maker can fold them now.

As for fuel, most stoves for country baths are powered by wood. In this case, not only the firewood itself is used, but also wood waste and pellets. The advantages of such systems include: efficiency, low fuel cost, independence from electrical wiring and gas pipelines.

It is also worth noting such a circumstance as the unique atmosphere created during the holiday. On to the minuses wood stoves The following points include: long heating of the premises and the stove itself, the need to frequently clean the chimney, as well as the obligation of the bathhouse owner to always keep and replenish the supply of firewood.

In turn, they can work fully automatically, without human intervention. They begin to work from the moment the electricity is turned on or the gas is ignited in the firebox. As a result, the steam room is prepared for steaming in literally 10-15 minutes. At the same time, these types of sauna stoves require the installation of high-quality and effective ventilation. In addition, bathhouse experts note the fact that gas will cost more than firewood, and electricity will be cheaper.

Making a homemade metal stove

A do-it-yourself bathhouse stove made of iron is made in accordance with standard drawings, which can be quite easily found on the Internet. First, you will need to select the material and tools necessary for the work. In this case, you will perform almost all operations on assembling the furnace using welding machine and an angle grinder.

As for the material, you will need a metal sheet, preferably chrome plated, at least 5 mm thick. He'll go to the ash pit. You can use such a sheet and at the same time a metal corner, 3-5 mm thick, on the stove frame.

To make the firebox and the bottom of the water tank, you will have to prepare thicker material - 7-10 mm. Will also be needed metal pipes of different diameters for arranging the chimney and stove piping system. But the doors for the firebox will need to be purchased ready-made at a construction and household goods store. It is best if they are made of cast iron, but if necessary, you can weld them yourself from the remains of a thick-walled pipeline.

You can also buy a mesh for stones, but in any case, fittings and shut-off valves, as well as grate bars will have to be purchased, since it will not be possible to make these elements yourself. They are inexpensive, so you can buy them quite easily.

After the material has been prepared, you can begin assembling the furnace. To do this, take a drawing and, based on it, begin to cut out blanks using an angle grinder and weld them together. Wherein Special attention It is worth paying attention to the assembly of the chimney and firebox as the most critical areas of the entire structure.

Separately, it is worth noting the fact that when the question arises of how to make a stove for a bathhouse with your own hands, people always wonder whether it is necessary metal structure cover with bricks? This decision is opposed by the possible excessive consumption of fuel, because the furnace, in addition to metal, will also have to heat the brick. However, everything can be compensated by the beautiful appearance of your steam room and the unique microclimate created in the room by the heated brick.

Homemade stone oven

The second popular option for heating a bath, along with metal products, is a stone stove. The fact is that a heater stove for a bath, built with your own hands, forms a unique Russian design in the steam room. In addition, a stone stove generates high-quality heat and air in the bathhouse, and therefore will not have any foreign odors or inclusions.

Construction of such heating system begins with laying the foundation. Usually a foundation pit is dug to a depth of 70 cm, and its bottom is lined with a mixture of sand and crushed stone. Then they add broken brick, spill water and lay the reinforcement after it dries, after which the pit is filled with concrete.

In this case, before pouring begins, formwork is installed, protruding 15 cm above the ground. After the filling procedure is completed, it is removed, and you have a finished foundation at your disposal. For waterproofing purposes, its sides are coated with several layers of tar, and the free space between its walls and the ground is filled with fine gravel and coarse sand.

A brick sauna stove, built with your own hands, is a rather complex structure, so if you do not have the skills to lay stoves, then you should entrust such work to an experienced stove maker. In the same case, when your knowledge is quite sufficient for laying this structure, you will need to start laying the walls of the furnace. In this case, you should be guided by a pre-prepared scheme that can be found on the Internet.

When laying masonry into a solid wall, doors for the heater and firebox are installed. Through them the stove will be loaded with fuel, and it will be possible to supply water to the heater. Next, a grate is installed above the combustion chamber, with gaps of 5 mm on each side, taking into account thermal expansion. A pre-prepared tank for storing water is also installed above the heater; it can be purchased ready-made, or you can weld it yourself from thick-walled metal.

In any case, the masonry must begin from the door in order to be well strengthened in the wall mass. While working, constantly check the evenness of the masonry using a level and plumb line. The point is that to create robust construction the masonry must be perfectly level, and the vertical seam between the bricks must overlap with the bricks of the next row.

There are several elements of stone ovens that must be completed. So this is a chamber for heating stones, a chimney, as well as a compartment for storing firewood or a firebox. Each of the oven elements has its own nuances in the layout. For example, a gap must be left between the boiler and the walls of the furnace for the rapid passage of hot gases and heating of water. There should also be a gap of thirteen centimeters between the roof sheathing and the pipe to avoid fire.

Particular attention will need to be paid to the arrangement of the chimney, since if it is not installed correctly, it may remain in the bathhouse. carbon monoxide. As a result, steamers can get poisoned or even die while taking bath procedures.

Furnace layout is completed finishing works. To do this, you can plaster it, or you can leave the wall as is, in its natural form, simply by covering the brick with heat-resistant varnish. As a result you will get original design interior of your steam room.

For many centuries, the bathhouse in Russia was considered perhaps the most important attribute both in cities and in remote taiga settlements. Our ancestors loved to take a steam bath so much that even on his trip abroad to France, Peter I ordered the construction of at least a temporary bathhouse - right on the banks of the Seine. Since that time, a lot has changed in both the design and the interior of the steam room, but something remains that will not disappear over the millennia: in a real Russian bath, the heat should be soft, but quite noticeable, and the steam should be thick and enveloping.

All this directly depends on the stove chosen for the bath. Therefore, even before constructing the steam room itself, experts advise first reviewing the drawings of the sauna stoves and choosing the most optimal option.

Sauna stove connected to a water tank

Design features of sauna stoves

Sauna stoves “black” and “white”

It has long been the case that in Russian baths only “black” stoves have been used - their difference from the second type is only that they do not have a chimney. This is just a modern “white” stove, with a chimney, you can light it right during the washing process - you just need to add fuel occasionally. And it’s easy to regulate the temperature in the steam room using such a stove.

But in a more archaic version, even before the bath procedures, the stove and the whole room were well heated, the fire was extinguished, and the bath itself was thoroughly ventilated. And only after that you can steam and wash in it. And what’s interesting is that these days there are many fans of “black” sauna stoves: they say that the heat of the stove and the aroma of walls smoked with smoke are charming in their own way, and the smoke itself adds to everything destroys both mold and rot at the root. That’s why the black baths really stood for centuries.

Furnace designs for convective air distribution

Modern designs of sauna stoves have the most different systems distribution of convective air. Basically, these are special casings for effective heating of stones and relatively small heating of the outer walls of the furnace, due to which the latter is considered safer in operation.

On the other hand, the stone lining, which can simply frame the stove, or can act as a full-fledged screen for the body, perfectly combats the so-called “radiant heat” - the unpleasant infrared radiation of a red-hot metal casing. Among the domestic ones, these are mesh ovens “Sayana”, “Termofor” and “Imbolk”, the lining of which is made of soapstone.

A selection of drawings of popular designs

Due to its design, a stove for a bath has completely different drawings than traditional stoves for heating a house. It is not for nothing that they are also called heaters - they are equipped with a special pocket for heating a pile of stones, due to which such stoves heat up quickly enough and their heat capacity is high.

Drawings of brick stoves for a bath

If we talk about the material of the stove, then for a long time in Russian baths they used massive brickwork on clay mortar. And even today, many fans of steam and brooms prefer only this type of oven - after all, they are best suited for producing dry steam.

Depending on their design, sauna stoves come in grate and grateless fireboxes. The grateless type is easier to maintain and more economical, and therefore is simply ideal for careful use of firewood. But the grate firebox, with a separate ash pan, creates a fairly powerful high-temperature flame, thanks to which the air in the steam room and the stone filling heat up as quickly as necessary.

And grate stoves are simply irreplaceable for those who have only raw or freshly harvested firewood in stock, but grateless stoves are much more demanding on the quality of the available fuel.

Popular options for metal stoves

But it’s easier, of course, to buy a ready-made steel or cast iron stove, already equipped with a “heat accumulator”. And ordinary heaters are a metal lattice container with stones above the firebox and a 30-liter water-heating tank in the upper part.

Metal heater stoves are usually made from sheet iron 4-5 mm thick. Usually a water tank is also welded to them - it can be placed either around the chimney or on any side of the stove. But for backfilling the stones, a special open chamber is already being organized. By the way, such stoves can operate on absolutely any fuel.

As you can see, all drawings have the following common elements: a box and a firebox, which represents steel box with a neck of about 60 mm, designed for a heater attachment. The firebox is made from strong high-quality steel, the thickness of which is not less than 5 mm. The set includes two valves, a blower grille and a heater grille. The heater grate must be welded from steel rods 20 mm in diameter so that the distance between them is 5 cm and they are freely installed on supports. And the vent grate must be made from 8 mm steel rods - it must also be removable.

The heater for the stove is traditionally made of steel, the thickness of which does not exceed 3 mm - it should fit freely onto the neck of the top. But the doors to the heater itself should be made from the side facing the steam room.

As for metal gas ovens, they consist of a housing and a special thermostat, which regulates the power of the unit. In addition, they must have a device that ensures the safety of such a stove.

But for a small family bathhouse, a closed one is also quite suitable - it is very compact and quite easy to manufacture. True, its heat capacity leaves much to be desired, which, in principle, can be easily corrected by full brick cladding. An open stove differs from it only in the presence of a heater.

But in any case, metal stoves must be lined with red refractory bricks, which must be laid from the grate to the edge. Only not reported front side stove, and on the other three sides the masonry needs to be done in only half a brick. They should be secured with wire clamps 3 mm in diameter.

And after you choose a suitable project or drawing, study in the corresponding section of our website how to build the stove you like with your own hands.

When asked how a metal stove differs from a stone stove, many answer with a smile and without the slightest hesitation - the material of manufacture. For such an answer you can give a three on the five-point knowledge assessment system. To get a higher score, familiarize yourself with the main and fundamental differences; this knowledge will be very useful to you when making a metal sauna stove with your own hands.

The stone oven is made of heavy bricks and therefore has a large mass. And all bodies with a large mass are characterized by significant inertia - they heat up for a long time and give off heat for a long time. This is not bad for a bathhouse, but only under one condition - the firebox device must provide maximum temperature burning wood, otherwise you will have to long time heat the premises.

A metal stove, on the contrary, has a low mass, heats up quickly and cools down just as quickly. These features put forward fundamentally new requirements for the firebox; the wood in it must burn for as long as possible. This is the only way to keep the oven hot for a long time.

Another important requirement for the firebox is related to the characteristics of the steel. When heated to just +150°C, martensite begins to decompose, it recrystallizes and polygonizes, and the physical properties of the metal change.

Look at the table, at this temperature the metal furnace does not change color, it seems to us that everything is normal, but this is no longer the case. Low-temperature tempering occurs at metal temperatures up to +250°, steel loses its resistance to dynamic loads.

The dark brown color of the furnace indicates that the metal has heated up to a temperature of +550°C, and at these temperatures medium-temperature tempering of steel begins, martensite turns into ferrite and cementite. Crystalline transformations of a metal change its linear characteristics. Have you noticed that sheet iron does not return to its original size after strong heating and cooling? It may swell, lose linearity, etc. Appearance the stove becomes “very original” and far from the original.

But quite often the metal stove heats up even more and turns bright red. This color appears at a heating temperature of +900°C. And this is already a high tempering, the metal becomes very soft and ductile, and the phenomena of residual deformation increase significantly. The stove may warp, and the welds may not withstand the static forces that appear. How to prevent such negative phenomena? It will not be possible to completely get rid of them, but there are ways to minimize them. They will help increase the operating time of a metal stove and improve the comfort of bathing procedures by increasing the time it takes to maintain a favorable temperature in the room.

We are confident that this knowledge will help you minimize the negative consequences of heating a metal stove too much. This can be done in two ways: special preparation of the metal and the peculiarities of the firebox design.

Preliminary metal preparation

After all the individual elements of the furnace have been cut out, first release the most heated parts. The sides and top parts and the firebox door heat up the most. Heat them in any way until red and cool slowly. After the holiday, the sheets may warp a little, this is not a big deal; use a hammer to straighten them to their original state. Check the dimensions again, if they have changed within noticeable limits, cut to the required parameters. This simple method will prevent the stove from warping during its operation.

Design features of a metal furnace firebox

Most metal stoves produce maximum amount heat in a minimum time, firewood burns out very quickly, surfaces heat up to high temperatures. It is impossible to maintain a normal and stable temperature in the steam room - you have to often add firewood. The room is either too hot or too cold. Why is this happening? Such ovens in most cases have grates. Their presence is justified in stone ovens; we have already mentioned that these ovens need to be heated quickly. Strong combustion of the flame is ensured by a large amount of air entering the flame through the grate.

The grates are made of metal rods, sheet metal numerous drilled holes or cast iron, differ in hole sizes, etc.

The firewood lies on the grate, the air flow is not regulated in any way; on the contrary, all measures are taken to increase draft, which automatically speeds up the combustion process. The top part of the oven heats up the most, a little less than the side, and the bottom and front heat up slightly.

This combustion mode has an extremely negative impact on both the longevity of the stove and the comfort of staying in the steam room. You have to periodically fill the fire with water; if there is not enough water, the flame will quickly flare up again; if there is too much, the combustion may stop altogether. In a word, a bath day brings a headache instead of pleasure.

What do we offer? The solution is very simple - do not make grates with a ash pit, let the firewood lie at the bottom of the stove, and not on the grate. Seal the firebox door as much as possible; you can use asbestos cord or mineral wool around the perimeter.

Make holes in the firebox door with an ordinary movable damper to regulate the amount of air supplied. One load of firewood in such a stove will burn for more than an hour; it is possible to regulate the heating temperature of the surfaces. In addition, the entire area of the stove will warm up. Due to the absence of a grate and ash pan, the work on making the stove was simplified, and the efficiency and ease of use increased.

As you can see, all the knowledge was useful to us; it can be used not only during the manufacture of a stove for a bath. We've sorted out the theory, it's time to move on to practice.

Brief description and dimensions of the metal stove

Our design will have a separate tank for heating water and a heater built into the top of the stove. The flame heats the heater from all sides, this significantly increases the coefficient useful action ovens. You can take arbitrary sizes, take into account the parameters of the steam room and the number of people washing at the same time. We give the dimensions of our stove as an example.

External heater. Width 50 cm, length 50 cm, height 80 cm.
Internal heater. Width 40 cm, length 40 cm, height 50 cm. The distance between the walls of the inner and outer heater is five centimeters around the perimeter.
Bake. Width 50 cm, length 90 cm, height 50 cm. You can change the length of the stove, make it only for an external heater 50 cm long (then the water tank will have to be mounted on the side on stops) or increase the length to increase the volume of the tank.
Water tank. Width 40 cm, length 50 cm, height 60 cm. The tank holds 120 liters of water, which is enough to wash three or four people. Certainly, hot water needs to be diluted with cold water.

Instructions for making a metal furnace

Step 1. Prepare materials. For manufacturing you need sheet steel, the thicker the better. But this can be very expensive, we recommend using sheets with a thickness of 1.5÷2.0 mm.

Metal sheets 2 mm

Step 2. Make a sketch of the stove indicating all dimensions and parts. Count the number of parts and their total area. This will help you decide on your sheet metal needs.

Diagram - example of a sauna stove

Step 3. Transfer the dimensions to the metal, cut out all the elements of the stove. Strictly observe the angles, they should be equal to 90°, make the opposite sides as identical as possible. You need to cut metal with a cylindrical grinder, follow safety rules. The grinder is a very dangerous tool, you shouldn’t joke with it, you can end up with too serious injuries. Burrs should be removed after cutting the workpieces. Before starting welding, double-check the quantity and dimensions of all parts.

Welding the furnace

Carry out work on a level area, clear workplace from foreign objects. Let's start with making a heater for the stove.

Step 1. Place two side panels on the edge at right angles and start making tacks.

Adjust the current, electric arc should not overheat the metal - the seam will be uneven and fragile. Tack a few millimeters at a time; 4–5 tacks are enough for one corner. Constantly check the position of the sidewalls. After cooling, the weld seam moves the sheets to the side; align their position. Check the corners with a square. In the same way, grab the two remaining sides of the heater.

Step 2. Place the two prepared pieces together, adjust the corners if necessary and grab the opposite edges of the heater. You now have a heater box, all that remains is to make the bottom and lid.

Four connected blank sheets forming a box

Step 3. Grab the bottom and lid. When cutting blanks by hand, it is impossible to achieve ideal dimensions; there will always be deviations. This is not scary; before gripping the bottom and lid, install them in such a way that the difference in size is approximately the same on all sides. Gaps of a few millimeters will be welded without any problems. To prevent the lid from falling into the box, place one side on any stand, the main thing is that it is thin and does not disturb the desired position of the part. Make several tacks on each side of the heater; as always, pay attention to the position of the elements and, if necessary, correct deviations.

For the bottom of the internal heater, it is better to take a sheet 10 mm thick. This accounts for the main “blow” of the flame; a bottom that is too thin can burn out quite quickly and smoke will begin to flow into the steam room. When the heater frame is completely sealed, apply full seams.

Step 4. Make a door in the heater. Lay the box horizontally and mark it. You can cut a hole with a grinder or welding.

In our version, the heater consists of two parts: internal and external. The outer one should have dimensions around the perimeter larger than the inner one by about 10 centimeters for the passage of flame and smoke into the chimney. The internal heater is installed in the external one on pipes, the diameter of the pipes is arbitrary.

Step 5. Make holes in the lower part of the outer heater for the pipes, on which the inner heater will stand. If you don't have pipes, you can use metal rods or fittings. Make sure that the holes are horizontal and at the same height on both sides of the sides of the outer heater.

In the same way, grab the outer heater, stove firebox and water tank. Cut holes in the firebox for firewood. We recommend making holes in such a way that the cut parts of the sheet can be used as doors. To do this, make holes in the firebox 1 cm larger than in the heater; from this blank you can make a door for it - material is saved.

Video - Making a metal stove for a bath (part 1)

Assembly of individual furnace elements into a single structure

Step 1. Prepare four plates for welding two heaters. The dimensions of the plates in length must correspond to the dimensions of the opening of the external heater.

Step 2. In the upper part of the outer heater, cut holes for the chimney pipe. The dimensions of the hole must correspond to the pipe you have and provide the necessary draft in the firebox.

Step 3. Weld metal strips approximately 2 centimeters high around the perimeter of the hole in the stove under the heater; the dimensions of the opening should correspond to the dimensions of the external heater.

Weld a 45x45 m corner from the inside of the firebox; one side of the corner should go into the hole under the heater and form a square. The side of the square should be 0.5÷1 cm smaller than the size of the heater. The structure will rest on these shelves in the oven opening. To increase the sealing of the heater installation, use sheet asbestos, cut strips two centimeters wide from it and place it between the bottom of the heater and the corner stops. The detachable connection will make it easier to install the stove in the steam room. The furnace structures are made of thick steel and have big sizes and weight, it is impractical to weld the heater to the stove. It is much more convenient to make it collapsible/dismountable, this will facilitate transportation and installation.

Step 4. Weld the firebox door on the hinges. Double weld all pre-made structures. It is better to lay the seam from the outside and from the inside.

Step 5. Insert the inner heater into place, it should stand on the pipes and be in a vertical position. Using prepared plates, connect the holes of the inner and outer heater. If the fastening of the internal heater is in doubt, secure it on top with pieces of metal, angles or fittings. These fasteners will be hidden; you can use any scrap metal.

The hole is closed by a door. There is an asbestos cord around the perimeter of the door, the lid is secured with bolts

Step 6. Weld top cover external heater. Cut a hole in it for the chimney pipe. Check the quality of all seams and correct any gaps if necessary.

The heater is almost ready. The only backward thing is to make a technological hole to clean out the soot falling from the pipe and think about installing the furnace. Soot will accumulate on the lid of the inner heater. Make a hole in the side of the outer wall of the heater, close it with a bolted lid, and use asbestos cord to seal it. Carefully grind all corners with a grinder and remove burrs.

We suggest installing the stove on metal legs. The height of the legs is at least 40 centimeters, asbestos must be placed below, and a metal sheet on top. These are the rules fire safety.

Video - Sauna stove (stages of assembling a double heater and installing it on a welded combustion chamber)

Video - Sauna stove (final part)

We have already mentioned that each master can make his own changes and adjustments during the manufacture of the furnace, taking into account his own preferences and individual characteristics steam room The changes concern not only the size of the furnace, but also its design. We give some tips for possible use.

It is better to make the legs in the form of longitudinal slides - the pressure on the flooring is significantly reduced, the loads are distributed evenly over several floorboards. This is very important, the stove itself is quite heavy, and you also need to keep in mind the weight of stones and water. To make the legs, any available metal of suitable size is suitable, and for the slide, you can take a 50x50 mm square. The ends of the slide should not protrude beyond the perimeter of the stove, otherwise your legs may be injured.

You can put refractory bricks on the bottom and sides of the stove - the metal heats up less and the heat lasts longer. There are two types of firebricks: heat-conducting (heavy) and heat-insulating (light). The latter are used for laying smelting furnaces; they keep the surfaces cold, despite the enormous temperature inside. Make no mistake, do not take such materials. Fire-resistant bricks for a sauna stove must conduct heat well, pay attention to this. If you plan to lay bricks, then increase the size of the firebox by the size of the brick.

The doors of the firebox and heater can be made from plates obtained after cutting out the holes. To do this, make the cuts as even as possible; to reduce the width of the cut, use thin disks. Working with them is more difficult and longer, but in the end you will still save time - you won’t have to waste it on making individual doors. It goes without saying that metal is also saved.

The dimensions of the doors will be smaller than the dimensions of the openings by the width of the cut; the doors may “fall” inside the firebox or heater. To eliminate such situations, weld with reverse side hole stops for doors. You can use narrow strips of metal. It is advisable to weld the stops along the entire perimeter of the holes, and not at several points, this way you will increase the tightness of closing the doors.

It is better to make it from stainless steel; to weld stainless steel you need to use special electrodes. Adjust the current of the welding machine specifically for stainless steel; remember that it is more difficult to weld and requires some experience.

If small children wash in the bathhouse, be sure to make a protective fence around the stove. It can be portable or stationary, it doesn't matter. The main thing is that the fence guarantees the safety of children.

If during operation of the stove it turns out that its power is not enough to heat the room, do not worry. The heat transfer performance of the stove can be significantly improved by increasing the effective area. Weld any metal plates on the sides and top, they will serve as radiators and heat exchangers. There is another way to increase heat transfer. To do this, you will need curved pipes with a diameter of approximately 50 centimeters. Weld them to the sides of the stove, one end of the pipe should be located under the stove, and the other above it. As a result of the temperature difference, draft will appear in the pipes, cold air pulled in from the floor under the stove and thrown out hot above it. The stove will work on the principle of the Buleryan stove.

We recommend making an adjustable air supply on the firebox door. The easiest way is to make a blower from a pipe. You will need a piece of pipe approximately 10 centimeters long and a piece of sheet metal of the same size. Make a hole in the middle of the door to fit the diameter of the pipe. Cut a circle from sheet metal with a diameter several millimeters less than the nominal diameter of the pipe. Drill two holes in the walls of the pipe; they should lie strictly on the same line and on the axis of the pipe. The distance of the holes from the end of the pipe is at least half the diameter, otherwise the damper will not completely block the gap, which will impair the ability to adjust the amount of fresh air supply.

Insert a piece of wire rod of the appropriate diameter into the holes, bend the upper end into a handle. Weld a circle cut from sheet steel to the wire rod, fix the manufactured damper to the hole in the firebox door.

There is another way to make adjustable door openings. Drill holes with a diameter of 10÷20 mm in the lower part, the centers of the holes should lie on the same line. Weld a metal plate at the bottom and top of the holes; the distance between the plates and the door should be equal to the thickness of the valve. The plates will serve as guides for the valve. As necessary, open one or more holes when firing the stove.

These are not all the possible improvements to a metal stove; think for yourself and engage in technical creativity. This process brings real pleasure, trust the professionals.

What kind of bathhouse it should be depends mainly on the stove in it. According to tradition, a Russian bathhouse should have a brick stove, which replaced the more ancient stone one. And many owners of baths under construction or built a long time ago are trying to install one of these - after all, this is a thing that has been tested for centuries. But how to assess the scale of the effort, time and finances associated with the construction of a brick stove for a bathhouse?

We want to help you - read and decide whether you can handle it yourself or still look for a professional, or is it easier to abandon this idea in favor of a brick-lined metal stove, which, if handled skillfully, can produce the same conditions as a brick one ?

Brick sauna stoves: history

The historical moment is also important: understanding how the Russian bathhouse develops can point to the most significant things in it.

The first stoves were simply made of stone, they didn’t even put it on the mortar - pile of stones over a fire, roughly speaking. AND there was no pipe- smoke spread throughout the hut (yes, the bathhouse was made right in the hut, no outbuildings, it was heated) and flowed out of the windows and doors. Until the 15th century, such baths were the most common in Rus'.

Brick sauna stove

The first innovation was, after all, a pipe, but made made of wood, it often became the cause of fire (the reason is simple - wood ignites at a temperature lower than that of the furnace gases at the outlet of the furnace).

Next they invented something between a “white” and a “black” stove - for this they placed something like hoods(a cap on top of which there was a chimney pipe). But this is not a brick stove yet.

The revolution, as one would expect, was carried out by Peter I - firstly, he exported a dozen stoves from Holland along with the craftsmen, secondly, he banned the construction of stoves in the capitals that were heated “black”. But in the end it turned out the same way as with the potatoes - the brick oven took root and became like home.

We hope you noticed the main thing - Russian baths were originally heated by batch stoves with flow-through heaters, which lacked only stone insulation for the hearth and a chimney pipe. And when the brick one arrived, it solved all these problems at once.

Advantages and disadvantages

Being progress for their time, brick stoves for baths, of course, had significant advantages, but this does not mean that they were completely devoid of disadvantages.

Among the latter - spalling of mortar. This is an inevitability that can only be cured jointing And filling the seams with new mortar. The owner needs to constantly monitor the condition of his stove.

Skillful unhurried ignition will get rid of cracks on the chimney, which are a consequence of sudden temperature changes in winter.

Another concern for the owner will be monitoring the amount of soot in the chimney. But similar responsibilities cannot be avoided by the owner of an iron stove. There is one “but”: iron ones have practically no smoke circulation, and if there is, it is purely nominal. And brick ones are often made with one form or another smoke circulation. And it also needs to be cleaned. For this purpose, special cleaning doors are provided.

However main disadvantage the majority still does not count what is listed, but the period of time that passes between the start of kindling and the start of bathing procedures. After all 4-5 hours is the average time required to prepare a sauna. So for day visitors this may not be an option.

Firewood consumption should also be taken into account. In winter, you will have to spend about four dozen firewood for one heating, in summer - three.

By the way! Just in case, we remind you that a newly built stove must first be dried - this is done by repeated fires with a small amount of firewood. That is, immediately the new stove is not heated at full capacity- it will deteriorate from this, it will crack. First, moisture is removed from the entire massif.

As for advantages, then they are obvious: the comfortable atmosphere of a Russian bath is a low temperature (60 degrees) and high humidity created by steam obtained from the superheated stones of a closed heater. Brick sauna stoves do the best job of maintaining the desired temperature inside and outside the stove.

Types of brick stoves for baths

Interesting topic, extensive. Structures forming different types There are plenty of brick stoves for baths. Some are simpler, others are more complex. Some provide water heating registers, in others - space for tank. Eat bell-shaped ovens and channel, there are more familiar types heaters - solid and flow-through. In addition to this, there are different smoke circulation systems for channel stoves - vertical and horizontal.

So, it is clear that registers and tanks are additional devices, but first we need to understand necessary elements. These include:

blower;
grate;
firebox;
heater;
smoke circulation.

The first major division can be made according to heaters. There are stones in some ovens separated from the fire only by a grate, which does not in any way prevent their contact; in others, it is equipped for stones sealed box, the bottom of which separates stones and flames, acting as an intermediary in the transfer of heat.

The first heater is called " flow-through" This is the heiress of “black-style” stoves. Today they are called "batch ovens". In fact, how can you pour water into such a heater without filling the fire? Impossible. Therefore, you have to wait until the wood burns out completely. Then you can open the door and add water to get steam.

Plus flow heater is that the stones heat up faster and to a higher high temperature. Minus- this has a bad effect on their lifespan in the heater.

Closed or blind heater allows pour water directly while firing the stove. Because these are independent processes. For such convenience, you have to pay in that the stones heat up more slowly, not as hot as in a flow-through, but still their temperature is enough to produce good steam.

Another way to divide ovens is this: they are channel and bell-type. Of the latter, it became widely known Kuznetsov furnace. The difference between them is what exactly is the “engine” of combustion products inside the furnace: the channel furnace operates exclusively on draft. And in the bell chamber, combustion products move freely, but at the same time, new arrivals crowd out their predecessors along the passages prepared for them by the engineer.

On a note! There are a lot of varieties of both channel and bell-type furnaces. The final choice of the appropriate option for your case usually depends on the stove maker, or more precisely, on how many different stoves he has built during his life.

Meaning different designs is to increase the heat transfer of furnace gases. The more they give, the higher the efficiency of the stove. Kuznetsov has an efficiency of 94% - simply an excellent indicator. This is achieved by installing several caps.

By the way! The second cap is often used for embedding additional accessories- heat exchanger or tank for heating water.

Let's return to channel furnaces. The set of channels represents a smoke circulation. Brick sauna stoves can also be classified according to how the channels are located:

vertical;
horizontally.

The specifics of each of these options are fully understood when it comes time to cleanse.

Advice! Therefore, here too (at least at first) it is worth using the services of a professional.

A little about tanks. Brick kilns for a wood-burning bathhouse with a water tank, it can be placed both at the top and bottom of the furnace structure. A fairly common option is when the tank is located behind the firebox, that is, the water heats up as quickly as possible. But we must take into account that the removed heat increases the heating time of the stones and the steam room.

Yes and more. The location of the firebox is variable, however it will not have a remote fuel channel— the stove itself will be positioned so that its wall with the firebox will be in the dressing room, for example. This kills two birds with one stone: heating goes to the rooms adjacent to the steam room, the steam room itself is clean and tidy.

There is one interesting point about the types of stoves. Without going into details, people often formulate their desires as follows: “I want the simplest stove for a brick sauna” or “I need a small stove for a brick sauna.” Well, why not, let’s consider them as possible varieties.

Small brick stove for a bath

In general, such a division should also be considered legitimate. The power depends on the size. The minimum and at the same time cost-effective values that we were able to find are 89x102 cm at the base. In other words, the stove is 4 bricks long and 3.5 bricks wide. Concerning height of a brick stove for a Russian bath, then the recommended value is 168 cm.

Simple brick stove for a bath

But simplicity is a relative concept. If you have no experience, any will be difficult, but if you have it, any will be within your power.

A simple brick stove for a bath with a closed heater

Based on the number of details and stages, including preparatory ones, then in our opinion the simplest would be the same metal stove with a brick lining- it’s not a fact that it will need a strong foundation, the casing is easy to build yourself, masonry errors will not be so critical, and the result will please you with both the quality of heat and steam. So think carefully about what you are willing to do.

How to stay safe

Standard fire safety regulations require that a firebox be placed in front of the firebox. at least half a meter in length, and the distance to the nearest wall was from the firebox at least one and a half meters.

Brick stove for a Russian bath. There should be a pre-furnace sheet in front of the firebox (marked with an arrow)

Brick sauna stove should not be connected to the wall. A gap should be left between them. He is needed first of all due to thermal expansion of the oven- with a rigid connection, cracks may appear. And so its surface does not heat up to the combustion temperature of wood.

However, a brick sauna stove is still a fire hazard. It's all about cracks that appear over time both in the stove itself and in the chimney, and can cause sparks to be released. The only way to fight is prevention. The crumbling seams are cleaned and sealed with new mortar.

Brick sauna stoves: sequence of work

As we promised, you can estimate your capabilities by getting acquainted with the stages of constructing a stove in a brick bathhouse.

Foundation

A brick stove in a bathhouse must have a foundation. No options: The stove in a brick bathhouse will have to be placed on a separate foundation. Many believe that the matter can be avoided shallow foundation, however, this is not always the case. You need to focus on what you did for the bathhouse as a whole. After all, everything greatly depends on the bearing capacity of the soil. Weighing several tons, the brick mass will exert significant pressure on the ground, and it usually sags unevenly, which causes distortion and fracture of the structure - a wall or a stove.

Advice! Read in the appropriate section of the site. There you will find not only theory, but also numerous practical recommendations for the construction of a suitable foundation.

Main - Do not forget that you cannot combine the foundations of a bathhouse and a stove into a single structure. It is customary to leave a gap of at least 5 cm between them.

Brick stove for a bath: solution

IMPORTANT! No cement is placed in the mortar for stove masonry, this must be remembered.

Two ingredients remain: clay and sand. And both can be different in composition or particle size. Sand is sifted through 1.5 mm sieve. As for clay, there are two options: either dig it up on your own site, or buy a bag in a store. In the first case you have to dig deeper than half a meter, because it is from this mark that what may be useful to you begins.

Rule! It is recommended to use the same type of clay for the mortar as in the brick, that is, red or fireclay. The reason is that homogeneous materials have the same thermal expansion, and this is good under conditions of strong heating - they expanded equally, contracted equally, no stress or deformation.

For masonry, the most important clay parameter is: fat she or skinny. These are quite conventional names. You can only understand what you are dealing with by drying a lump of clay and looking at the result. Skinny clay tends to crumble when it dries. Oily skin behaves differently: visually the lump becomes smaller in size and cracks appear on it.

Note! When mixed with sand, the fat content of the clay changes, and sand reduces it. That is why there is no exact proportion; it is the result of selecting specific ingredients. The selection is carried out in the form of the following experiment: make several samples of mixtures of clay and sand, mark the shares and let them dry. If a dried cake crumbles, there is too much sand; if it cracks, there is too much clay. Optima is a homogeneous sample that is not cracked or crumbled.

Before mixing, the sand is not only sifted through a fine sieve, but also washed.

By the way! Some solution recipes contain... table salt in small quantities.

The brick itself - brands, types

When planning a stove for a brick bathhouse, important role plays the choice of the most basic building material. We recommend watching a video in which a stove maker tells you what you can find on sale and what he thinks is better.

Video

Let us add on our own that a good selection criterion is sound when hitting a brick. There are no defects if the sound is ringing and metallic. Any deafness is a sign of cracks.

We already mentioned red fireproof and fireclay bricks. In addition to them, they are suitable for ovens clinker and alumina heat-resistant. Fireclay is the most expensive. It is used only for laying out the furnace core of the furnace. Others listed are used for laying its walls.

Brand(number) stands for density. Stove makers use from 150 to 250. The higher the density, the higher the heat capacity, the longer you wait for the steam room to heat up.

Frost resistance material does not matter indoors, but it is worth paying attention to when you make a chimney.

Uniform color — good sign. Heterogeneous talks about uneven firing and, as a result, different strength of brick sections.

Geometry- also not the last criterion when choosing. It’s easier to work with the right one.

Brick sauna stove: are there any alternatives?

Finally, let's look at what can replace a brick stove in a bathhouse.

Stone stove for a bath

We will not advise you to build the walls of the furnace from real stone, but impose iron stove slabs of some nice stone are not a bad idea. Such a stove will cost less than a brick stove, but not that much cheaper. An advantage can be considered that it will take up less space and will be easier to maintain. In essence, this is an alternative to a brick casing, which, by the way, is also quite good for creating a suitable stove for a Russian bath.

Stone stove for a bath

Stone casings are sold at the most different models stoves, and if we are talking about homemade products, then you can always make a casing to order.

Metal stove + brick pipe

We somehow avoided in this article the question of what kind of chimney should be. It is clear that over brick stove most won’t buy a regular sandwich (although there are some). Such a stove is supposed to brick chimney, with fluff and proper cutting of the floors.

However heavy and durable a brick chimney can also be placed on a conventional metal stove, which is also good. More precisely, connect a metal stove to a brick pipe. In other words, the chimney is a different story. Look at the photo to see what its implementation could be like in the above-mentioned combination: