There is often a need for broad wooden shields. Such shields can be bought in the distribution network or made independently. To glue a high-quality shield yourself, you need to know some secrets of such work.
Procurement of raw material
1. For a shield, it is necessary to select high-quality lumber. The boards must be of the same width and moisture, have even fibers along the entire length. Blanks that already show signs of warpage should be discarded.
2. The texture pattern should be similar and not much different in color. When buying boards, it is advisable to choose them from the same pile.
3. Wood moisture should not exceed 8-9% for hard rock, and for soft ones - no more than 12-14%.
4. The texture pattern of the lumber must be suitable for gluing into a shield. You should choose boards with a radial or intermediate cut. It is not desirable to use tangential sawn timber, as they are more prone to warping.
5. Pay attention to the lines of the texture pattern. If such lines are not parallel, then this is a sign that the boards are prone to bending or twisting.
6. For gluing boards, boards up to 120 mm wide should be selected. Although this increases the number of glue lines, it reduces the likelihood of warping of the finished shield. IN wide boards higher internal stresses, which further leads to warping and cracking.
7. After the larch lumber is brought to the workshop, they need to be given a few days for the temperature and humidity to equalize in them.
Operating procedure
1. Plane the boards, leaving a thickness allowance of 2-3 mm. If the shield is to be cut at a right angle, additional tolerances are required for the length of at least 50 mm and for the width of the shield at least 15 mm.
2. On the planer, one face of all boards for the shield is leveled.
3. All boards are calibrated on the planer to the required thickness.
4. Then again, on the planer, one edge is aligned strictly at 90 degrees to the face of the board.
5. On the circular machine, the second edge is cut off, and the marks from the saw on the planer are removed.
6. Prepare required amount clamps and flat surface on which the shield will be glued.
Prepared boards must be immediately glued into the shield. Since the delay can lead to warping of the prepared workpieces. If the width of the shield is large, then it must be glued from several parts in stages. The width of such parts should not exceed the width working area thicknesser so that after gluing they can be aligned in height. And the whole shield is already glued from the prepared and calibrated parts.
Before gluing the shield, it is necessary to prepare even bars of the same thickness, on which the prepared boards are placed. This will ensure that the clamps can be easily fixed on the board to be glued.
Having smeared the edges with glue, install the clamps and clamp them. The clamping force is controlled by the glue squeezed out of the joints. It should form a uniform roller. The installation of clamps starts from the edge of the shield. Having installed the first one, and slightly clamping it, they immediately install at this edge quick clamps for all adhesive joints. This is necessary so that the boards do not move relative to each other.
Then the next clamp is installed horizontally at a distance of 250-270 mm from the first and from the opposite side of the shield. In this case, all the time you need to control that the boards are in the same plane. If necessary, they are aligned. Install the remaining clamps, alternating from the top and bottom sides of the shield.
Having reached the second edge of the shield, with the help of quick-clamp clamps (which are removed from the first edge), glue joints are fixed and the last horizontal clamp is installed.
After about five minutes, the vertical quick-clamp clamps are removed so that the glue in these places has the opportunity to dry.
As soon as the glue squeezed out of the joints dries slightly, it is removed with a scraper or spatula.
Clamps are removed after the final setting of the adhesive.
On the site http://www.foresthouse.ru/- "Forest House" dedicated to woodworking products and the sale of interventional heaters can be additionally viewed various materials on the topic of wood processing and the construction of wooden log cabins. This site contains a significant number of unique articles useful, both for beginners and for masters working in the field of wooden suburban housing construction.
This article belongs to an expert in the field of woodworking industry Yury Nikolaevich Zelentsov. Copying the article without written consent is prohibited.
Novice furniture makers sometimes face a problem - where to buy a furniture board. Factory samples are not always suitable for the intended design, but blanks can be made independently.
For the manufacture of shields, you will need special equipment: planer, grinders (belt and surface grinders). Choose boards for work of the same breed, without knots, dried, with minimal warping. The best option- buy a log and saw it into pieces of the required size. The cutting angle is 90 degrees. Pine, oak, birch are suitable for the manufacture of shields.
Wooden panels are very practical - they do not deform, have slight shrinkage, the structure of the tree is not damaged, so the investment in the production of lumber quickly pays off.
Successful busy people must have a hobby. It relieves stress and reduces the risk of a heart attack. You can collect candy wrappers and coins, or you can do a serious craft. For example, glue a furniture board with your own hands. The process is not as complicated as it might seem, but it requires at least a minimal knowledge of the tool.
Tools and materials for the manufacture of furniture panels
- Circular Saw.
- Milling machine.
- Drill.
- Hammer.
- Electroplaner.
- Belt and surface grinders. Can you clean wood? sandpaper by screwing it onto the block. True, it will take a little longer.
- Reismus.
- Clamps or homemade devices for pulling boards.
- Long metal ruler, pencil, tape measure.
- lumber.
- Plywood and thin slats for rallying the shield.
- Glue.
Preparatory work
First, let's decide what size furniture board we need in order to stock up on a sufficient amount of material. In any case, blanks must be longer and thicker than the final dimensions of the shield. We choose boards from a tree of the same species, dry and even, with a minimum of knots. You also need to know the basic properties of wood. We offer a small carpenter's dictionary, so as not to get confused in terms:
- Plast - wide longitudinal sides of the boards.
- Plots - separate bars, planks, sawn from a wide board.
- Lamels are solid, non-jointed blanks. In fact, the same as the plots.
- Curl - a random arrangement of wood fibers in the workpiece. Occurs when a board is sawn from a butt of a tree.
- Sapwood is the outer layer of wood just below the bark.
According to the advice of the old masters, how to make a furniture board good quality, plots are taken that have a ratio of width to thickness as 3x1. Such a lamella is stable, since the internal tension of the wood is not enough to split the batten. We have all seen boards cracked at the end. This is the case when material stress caused by improper drying splits the workpiece. So, first we dissolve the lumber into slats with a width of no more than 15 cm. In the process of sawing, at the same time we remove all defective sections of the boards.
Before assembling the shield, we take into account that the wood warps into different directions. The strongest - in the direction of annual rings (tangential direction), two times weaker - in the direction of the core lines (radial direction). We glue the sawn blanks in the order indicated on the very first photo:
Shields a and b: heartwood to heartwood, sapwood to sapwood. This will avoid warping when the shield shrinks, which reduces strength. adhesive joints.
Shields c and d: we orient blanks with pronounced pilosity along the lines of annual rings, then the deformation of the finished shield will be much less.
Step-by-step instructions for making a furniture board
Methods for connecting plots in a shield
How to make a furniture board with your own hands so that in the future the wood retains its original stability? There are several ways to deal with shield buckling caused by sawn timber.
We glue the lamellas on the dowels (the lower shield in photo 6) or use the finishing tips, following the example of the drawing board. To fix short boards, we use a tip with a groove-comb assembly (upper shield in the photo), connected flush with the lamellas. The tip may have a protrusion over one (middle shield) or both layers, depending on the purpose of the product.
If the furniture board is intended to be used in conditions of constant fluctuations in humidity, it would be better not to glue the boards. Compensation for wood with frequent swelling is achieved by various methods of rallying the plots. The upper shield in photo 7 is connected in a quarter, the middle one in a quarter with chamfering from the upper edges. The boards of the lower shield are also cohesive in a quarter, but already with a selection of profile edges on front side.
Another type of conjugation of plots without the use of glue is the use of flashing strips. The upper shield in photo 8 is pulled together with a regular rail, the middle one - with a profiled bar without grooves, the lower one - with a profiled bar with grooves.
If the furniture board will be operated under constant mechanical load, in conditions of high humidity and temperature differences, then the boards should have a more powerful interface. Photo 9 shows examples of such compounds. The upper shield is assembled on dowels, the middle one - on a plywood rail. The width of the lath should be equal to the thickness of the plots, the thickness of the lath - one third of the thickness of the plots.
The example of the lower shield shows a tongue and groove connection used when laying a floor or facing partitions. All these methods can be used in the manufacture of collapsible panels (for example, for sliding furniture). Glue is not used in these connections.
Gluing the lamellas on the dowels requires perfect accuracy in the location of the holes, otherwise the geometry of the shield will be broken. Nests are marked with markers. Drilling the ends is best done using a drill stand and stop. The depth of both holes in total should exceed the length of the fastener by 2-3 mm.
If not milling machine, grooves and profiles at the ends are removed using a drill mounted on a stand. An appropriate cutter is installed on the tool and high speeds are turned on.
We saw off the assembled, dried and polished shield to the desired size. Now you can put it to work - make furniture, doors, window sills, sheathe walls and ceilings. Durability, aesthetics, naturalness furniture panels- This best recommendations for building material.
The furniture board is a specific type wood materials, created by gluing standard planed wooden blocks. It is effectively used to create various types of fittings and coatings. Making a furniture shield with your own hands at home is not difficult at all, so this work is available for self-fulfillment every person. The resulting designs are natural and environmentally friendly, and at the same time much more attractive than chipboard or MDF.
Creating a furniture board with your own hands at home involves the use of different types of wood. Most often, birch or oak, beech or aspen, as well as larch and various conifers are used for this.
Each type of wood has its own characteristics, therefore, before making a certain choice, it is recommended to decide in advance on the operating conditions under which the resulting contraction will be applied.
Most often, furniture panels are used to create different furniture and doors. They are distinguished by the presence of a specific internal stress, therefore, in the process of work, one must be careful not to violate the integrity of the structure. Incorrect work can lead to deformation of the finished product.
The main advantages of furniture boards are:
- environmental friendliness due to the use of natural ingredients and high-quality glue;
- exquisite appearance received furniture and other structures, but this is only possible with proper processing of shields;
- high practicality, since wood has a homogeneous structure, which allows you to restore broken or lost attractiveness elements;
- making a furniture board is an incredibly simple task, and at the same time a small amount of money is spent on this process;
- furniture made from panels is durable and attractive;
- the products do not have any cracks or other deformations, and also do not undergo significant shrinkage.
The main factor in obtaining a high-quality shield is the competent choice of material for these purposes. Standard furniture panels have a thickness of 2 cm, so blanks are initially prepared optimal size, as well as having the desired thickness. Since the boards will certainly have to be planed, and then sanded, they should be purchased with a margin, so their thickness should be equal to 2.5 cm.
In the process of choosing a material, you should focus on the type of wood, as well as the quality of the boards. The wood must not be uneven or warped. It must be of high quality, properly dried and with the complete absence of any rotten areas. Therefore, before purchasing, you should carefully inspect the boards. In addition, the accompanying documentation for the material is studied in detail.
Required Tools
Do-it-yourself furniture board gluing is done using standard tools. Usually they are available to every man who prefers to do numerous housework on his own. Therefore, only the elements are prepared:
- planer for optimal wood preparation;
- a tool for connecting and gluing individual wooden bars;
- belt type grinder;
- building level, allowing you to get really even shields;
- coarse sandpaper;
- flat grinder.
These tools will be enough to make a shield, so no more expensive devices will be needed.
Manufacturing rules
As soon as the tools are completely ready for the planned work, the direct production procedure begins. How to make a furniture board? This process is not considered too complicated, but in order to exclude possible mistakes or problems, it is recommended to study the correct instructions in advance. For this, the following steps are performed:
- originally wooden planks cut into separate bars with the right size, and it is important to make cuts in such a way that they are strictly at right angles;
- the presence of any irregularities or other defects is not allowed, since in this case it will not be possible to glue the furniture board correctly;
- if slight distortions are found, then they can be eliminated with a conventional planer;
- an important point in production is the combination of the obtained blanks, since they must be the same in texture and color, as well as in other important parameters;
- after the selection of elements, they are marked so that during the gluing process there are no difficulties with their correct location.
In order for all stages of the process to be completed taking into account the main nuances, it is recommended to watch the training video in advance.
We make bars
We process the machine
We mark each bar
Element bonding technology
After all the bars made are prepared, you can proceed to their direct gluing, which will ensure a high-quality shield. This procedure is also divided into successive stages:
- a device is selected that makes it possible to glue the bars, and it must be even, and usually a regular chipboard sheet is used for this;
- planks are fixed along the edges of the sheet, and their height depends on the parameters of the prepared bars;
- bars are laid out between these planks, and they should fit snugly against each other and an attractive pattern should be formed from them;
- if there are gaps, then they can be easily eliminated with a standard jointer;
- then the bars are glued together, for which they are used different types glue intended for wood, but the use of PVA glue is considered optimal;
- the entire surface consisting of bars is completely smeared with glue, and it is important that the agent is evenly distributed over the surface;
- lubricated elements are tightly pressed against each other;
- on slats, fixed to chipboard sheet, two more such strips are laid, after which these elements are connected with self-tapping screws, and this is necessary to prevent the resulting shield from bending;
- the resulting blank is left for about an hour, after which the shield is released and left for a day.
Thus, having figured out how to glue the elements to get a furniture board, this process will not require significant effort. The procedure is easy to implement on their own, and as a result, structures are obtained that are effectively used to create numerous furniture, doors, or even full-fledged coatings, which are distinguished not only by high strength, but also by reliability, as well as by attractive appearance.
We fix the slats
Laying out the bars
Laying two more strips
Leave to dry
Finishing
Shields are made in such a way that they are not only strong and durable, but also quite attractive. For this, attention is paid to some finishing stages consisting in special treatment. For this, the following actions are performed:
- preliminary grinding procedure is carried out. For these purposes, it is recommended to use a standard tape grinder. You need to insert a special sandpaper, and it should have large fractions, since the initial processing is done. It allows you to eliminate large defects and differences remaining on the surface after the shield creation process. It is necessary to act carefully, and the process is also carried out in consistent and even lines;
- secondary processing - involves the use of a flat grinder. It ensures the removal of the slightest drops, irregularities and other defects present on the surface of a wooden furniture board. Also, due to this process, the pile is removed from the surface. It is recommended to pre-moisten the base with a small amount of water, and grinding should begin only after the structure has completely dried.
After well-implemented processing, it is possible to use the resulting shields to create a variety of tables or shelves, bedside tables and other furniture. It is allowed to use them to form doors or coatings with high strength, reliability and durability.
The figure shows another way to connect wood parts: gluing boards into a shield (panel for carving) and additional fastening of wooden cross planks in the form of a spike. Jointed boards or bars in shields should be directed along the long side of the shield, in square or round shapes - vertically. Material constituent parts taken from the same wood, mainly from the same trunk; the material of the transverse slats should, as a rule, be from another wood that is more durable or has other advantages: for example, it is known that oak is not afraid of moisture, pine and spruce are also less susceptible to hygroscopicity, they are less depleted by woodworms, cedar, olive, larch, boxwood is resistant to rotting and cracking. Cross bars(dowels) have a trapezoid shape in profile (“ dovetail”) and tapers slightly towards the end in the shape of a wedge. They are driven into sawn grooves one towards the other.
Manufacturing technology of composite shields
Dried wood is carefully checked to detect and eliminate defects that will certainly interfere with work.
First take planed boards desired length and thickness, taking into account the allowance from 30 to 100 mm, and face and edge are jointed at an angle of 90 °. The width of the boards when gluing can be from 50 to 100 mm. The quality of the joint is checked for clearance, applying edges to each other. The edge jointing accuracy must be sufficiently high, otherwise the shield may crack at the point of gluing both during the threading process and after.
When laying out the blanks in a shield on the front side, where the carving will be carried out, the texture pattern and color of the wood are selected, since the “banding” of various blanks can affect the quality of the product and reduce the overall effect.
Gluing wooden blanks with edges to obtain boards of large width:
clamping with screws and wedges
The jointed workpieces are placed in clamps or clamps (in the figures above), they check the correct layout at the ends, according to the texture pattern and according to the density of the edges, lubricate the edges with glue and clamp them with screws or wedges. To obtain blanks of large cross-section, the boards are glued in layers
Gluing boards in layers into blocks to obtain a workpiece of large cross section:
1 - workpiece, 2 - clamping screw.
For gluing shields, depending on where the decorations will be, use different kinds glue. So, for gluing shields that will be installed on outdoors, casein and synthetic adhesives are used, which have high bonding strength and high water resistance.
For carved panels, souvenirs and other products use synthetic, as well as glutinous (carpentry) adhesives. Casein glues, carpentry glues, PVA emulsion, EDP glue, etc. are on sale. The method of application is usually indicated on the labels or in the instructions. Types of adhesive joints are shown in the figure.
Types of side adhesive joints in panels:
1 - connection to a smooth fugue; 2 - connection on dowels; 3 - rail connection;
4 - connection in a quarter; 5 - rectangular spike; 6 - triangular spike;
7 - oval spike; 8 - trapezoidal spike; 9 - spike "dovetail".
Correctly glued shields are less prone to warping. Occasionally, panel boards or other large carvings may come into contact with a surface that is subject to cooling or moisture, which in turn can cause warping. In this case, the shields are reinforced by gluing into the end or into the face of profiled bars or battens.
Reinforcement of shields with inserts from profiled bars and rails:
1 - pasting a beam with a rectangular spike; 2 - pasting a rectangular rail; 3 - pasting trapezoidal bars.
Lumber, which is sold in Building Materials stores, is also suitable for house carving: sheathing-lining, boards and bars for flooring. They are easy to glue, because they are already milled and have a certain sectional shape.
After drying, the glued shields are carefully cut out and cleaned with a planer with a double piece of iron or a jointer. Shields are not ground before carving, since when grinding the abrasive powder crumbs get stuck in the pores of the wood and greatly dull the tool.
The ideal case for the durability of the parts to be joined is the use of stained wood, that is, it has been in the water for a long time. For miniature crafts, the desired material is pear, which retains its shape well when dried, and wild pear is more durable.
It remains to be recommended, if the opportunity presents itself, to use the middle fractional cuts of the same trunk to compile the shield, they exclude warping during drying. It must be remembered that when dried, the board bends in the direction of straightening of the annual layers.
