What type of timber to choose for building a house? Optimum thickness and dimensions of timber for a country house and for permanent housing. Construction of a wooden house: which timber to choose

Many of those who live in stuffy apartments, and when they go out into the street fall into gray smog and deaf from the noise of cars, want to change their environment. To live in wooden house, breathe clean air and enjoy the silence. And those who decide to do this often ask themselves the question - how to choose a beam in order to build a beautiful and secure home for your family.

Today, the construction market presents the most different types timber, differing in geometric parameters, profile, grade, method of production. Choosing the best one is not an easy task, especially if the financial possibilities of the buyer are not unlimited.

From this article you will learn about all types of this material, their advantages and disadvantages, as well as how to save money on a purchase without sacrificing quality.

Which beam is better

If you are not faced with the question of what to choose - a beam or a frame, if you have already decided that you will build a wooden house, then the first thing you need to do is to study the range of local construction markets and hypermarkets. As a rule, they offer three main types of timber: planed, profiled and glued.

Consider each type separately with all its disadvantages and advantages.

Planed timber

The material is obtained by cutting a log, during which a product is obtained that has a rectangular or square section. The main competitive advantage of planed timber over glued and profiled timber is its low price. Compared to a log, it is easier to assemble into a log house, and compared to a brick, it requires less effort and cost for the device.

However, in addition to tangible advantages, this type of timber also has serious disadvantages that you need to know about and which you need to reckon with if your goal is a strong, durable and warm house.

Planed timber is made from wood natural humidity.

It gradually decreases as the tree dries, and this can lead to the following unpleasant consequences:

Deformation. You can buy perfectly flat, beautiful bar, but after a while, amazing metamorphoses will begin to happen to him: he can bend or even turn out like a “helicopter”;
Cracks. This is the most common defect, worsening not only appearance material, but also its operational properties;

Rot, blue, mold. If raw timber is stored in improper conditions - in poorly ventilated rooms or in stacks close to each other, such manifestations are inevitable;
Shrinkage. When building a house with your own hands, it is important to remember that over time the timber will dry out and its geometric dimensions will decrease. As a result, the entire structure will shrink, which depends on the initial moisture content of the material and the surrounding conditions.

Note. If it were only about the loss of a few centimeters in height, this trouble could not be paid attention to.
But as a result of shrinkage, window and door openings can be deformed, the exterior and interior wall decoration can be damaged.
Therefore, the log house must be allowed to settle for several months, preferably under the roof, before continuing construction.

Slits. Ordinary planed timber often suffers from inaccurate dimensions, so when building walls it is difficult to avoid gaps between the crowns. They also increase as the wood dries. They must be sealed: lay sealing materials between the crowns, caulk the walls to prevent the penetration of cold and moisture.

The planed beam itself does not differ in the ideal shape and surface, and when the described defects are superimposed, it loses outwardly profiled and glued at all. Therefore, it needs additional external finishing.

Profiled timber

You can avoid the appearance of some of these problems if you purchase a profiled beam. It differs from the planed one in the shape of the section: its front sides are smooth, and in the workers a selection of the tongue-and-groove or comb type is made.

Which lumber profile to choose depends not so much on personal preferences as on the moisture content of the material.

The thorn-groove connection involves the use of a heater laid between the crowns in the grooves. Even if the timber, when dried, shrinks with the formation of gaps, it will prevent blowing.

The protrusions of the "comb" profile fit very precisely to each other and do not require the use of insulation. But when the moisture content of the wood changes, the parameters of the comb may change. Therefore, when choosing such a profile, you need to be sure that the beam is dry and will not give much shrinkage.

For reference. The advantage is that the wood is dried until it reaches a moisture content of no more than 22%, otherwise the quality of processing will be low.
Therefore, it shrinks less than planed.

Many woodworking enterprises manufacture profiled timber according to the customer's design, immediately cutting “cups” for joints and corner joints in it. You no longer have to think about how to choose a groove in a beam - the log house is assembled according to the type of children's designer.

But this material, nevertheless, is not without such shortcomings as the appearance of cracks and shrinkage, which requires a technological break in construction.

Glued laminated timber

This type of timber has the best performance characteristics, but also the highest cost. Its main advantage is low humidity and, accordingly, the absence of all those negative aspects that arise during the shrinkage of the material and the shrinkage of the finished log house. You can build a house out of it in one season, without waiting for natural shrinkage.

You will learn about how glued laminated timber is made from other articles in this resource. We note that the technology of its manufacture makes it possible to obtain a high-quality product at the output, practically devoid of the shortcomings of raw wood, but possessing all its useful natural qualities. In addition, it has an impregnation against rotting and fire, and does not need additional finishing.

As in the case of profiled timber, glued timber can be made to order in accordance with the selected house project. And some manufacturers offer ready-made kits that come with assembly instructions.

Note. Not so long ago, a novelty appeared on the market - a D-shaped glued beam, the convex front surface of which imitates a rounded log.

How to save on timber construction

The budget deficit for building a house does not always allow you to choose expensive and quality materials. But, if you know how to choose the right timber - ordinary, not subjected to special treatment, and how to prepare it for work, you can save a lot and get a solid and beautiful structure. Our tips will help you with this.

So, what to look for when buying?

Beam evenness. Determined visually and practically. The product must be placed on a flat surface alternately with all faces and make sure that it is not bent or twisted by a “propeller”.
The distances between the annual rings, visible at the end of the timber, must be the same. If they narrow or expand on one side, this indicates that over time the beam will “lead” and it will bend.
The surface of the wood must be of a uniform, uniform color everywhere. A visually noticeable color contrast at the ends or side faces indicates the presence of layers with different internal stresses, which will also lead to deformation.

It is much more difficult to determine the moisture content of the material. But even if you see that the timber is completely fresh, but good quality, you can independently bring it to the desired condition. True, this will take time.

And so you are planning to build a house, and now you have a question from which timber to build a house. First of all, you must decide on the dimensions of the beam. This is very important, because if you choose a thinner timber than you need, your house will be cold in winter, in addition, you will have to additionally sheathe the house from a timber for insulation, or insulate the house from the inside. All this will not only entail unnecessary waste, but also add a lot of trouble. Therefore, first, the most important thing is to determine the thickness of the timber. Then you need to decide on the type of wood and the type of timber.

For your information, cedar timber is considered the most environmentally friendly and useful, by clicking on the link you will find out its properties, main application and what experts say about this timber.

What timber to build a house from - types of timber and its thickness.

If the house is planned only for summer living, and you will not live in winter, then it is better to choose a thinner timber to save money. 100x150mm is quite suitable for these purposes. For a full-fledged stay in the winter in the house, the timber must be chosen thicker. Here you also need to focus on your winters, if it goes smoothly, then a bar measuring 150x150 may well be enough, for colder winters, take 200x200mm. It would also not be bad to consult with the owners of similar houses in your region, they will certainly tell you about the thickness of their timber and the comfort of living in the house in winter.

Now let's decide on the types of timber from which you can build a house. The cheapest option is the usual solid timber. Of course, you can build a house out of it, but the only advantage of this material is only the price. A house built from ordinary timber is subject to strong shrinkage, in order to minimize this it must be well dried, it is advisable to buy chamber drying timber. Further, such a beam should be very even - so that there are no gaps, and this is rare.

There are always gaps between the beams, therefore, choosing such a material, get ready to systematically caulk it, and treat it annually with various impregnations to increase its service life. Therefore, it can be used if in the future you plan to sheathe the house both inside and outside.

profiled beam more suitable material, thanks to the grooves available on the material, slot formation is significantly reduced. In addition, such timber is sold in a more dried form, which reduces the shrinkage of the building. But still, over time, shrinkage will occur, and this is the main problem of timber houses. For longer operation, such a bar also needs protective impregnations. You will also have to close the gaps with tow or other suitable material.

The most suitable material for building a house is glued laminated timber. Its quality, of course, largely depends on the manufacturers. Indeed, not only its durability, but also the size of the shrinkage of the house, slit formation, and more depend on what kind of glue was used, how dry the timber is. The price of glued laminated timber is not small, so not everyone can pull such a building material. Manufacturers of glued laminated timber say that a house built from it does not shrink, but this should be treated with caution. And in the future, if you want to do interior or exterior decoration, you'd better wait a couple of years after the construction of the building until it shrinks completely. You can read about the disadvantages of glued beams by clicking on the link.

From what timber to build a house, you already know the answer - the desired thickness is 20x20 cm, the timber should be profiled and even better glued. Instructions for building a small wooden house — .

Building a house from a bar - video

Selection of wood for building a house.

Now let's decide on the type of wood, which type of wood is better to use.

If you are more or less okay with money, you can use Siberian cedar, this is one of the best materials for the construction of a residential building or a bathhouse. It is an excellent antiseptic, therefore, living in such a house made of cedar, people get sick less, it is also a natural aphrodisiac, it has a purple-red tint. A house built of cedar will emit a pleasant tonic smell. You can read more about this wood.

Further, a larch beam would be a good option for building a house, the positive aspects are a beautiful texture, the tree is stronger than oak, it is very durable. Having a high density material resistant to moisture. The tree has medicinal properties, a house filled with the smell of larch will have a positive effect on your health. For your confidence in choosing this material, I would also like to add that in Siberia there are houses built from this tree that are more than 300 years old. True, in order for the beam to be of high quality, it must be made of wood that is at least a hundred years old.

Pine timber is the most common material. Its main advantage over other breeds is its low price. Also, the not bad quality of this material contributed to its popularity. Of course, it is not perfect, but it also has healing properties, and resistant to moisture, and the structure of the tree looks good.

Oak timber can also be used in the construction of a house. Its main advantage is resistance to moisture and durability of the material. There are also minor drawbacks - high price, high weight and due to the high density it is difficult to handle. Some use it only for the lower crown where there is a high probability of moisture ingress.

Now you know what kind of timber to build a house from, you have the opportunity to choose both by the type of timber and by the type of tree. If you build a house sparing no money, then your choice should fall on a glued laminated timber from larch or cedar.

Construction timber of natural moisture

Country houses, baths and not expensive houses for permanent residence are advantageous to build from freshly sawn timber of natural moisture.

Such lumber is much cheaper than profiled or glued beams. Assembling the walls of a house from a building beam is quite simple and, if certain rules are followed, allows you to build a reliable and durable house.

Is it necessary to dry the timber?

The acquired timber should not be dried. During natural drying in a stack, lumber is strongly deformed - it bends, twists with a corkscrew. It is almost impossible to fold even walls with tight seams from such a warped beam.

After manufacturing the timber, as soon as possible, it should be laid in the walls. The beam dries up already being in the wall. In the wall, the bars are fastened together and are in a fixed position. The deformation of the beam during drying in the wall is less significant.

Buy freshly made timber, sawn from the forest of winter felling. Do not buy stale timber from storage and do not store it yourself for a long time.

When dried, the bars decrease in size, become thinner and shorter. Wood is especially strongly compressed in the direction across the fibers. The height of the wall during the drying of the beam can decrease by 7-10%.

The process of drying the timber in the wall continues for quite a long time. Finally, the timber reaches the equilibrium moisture content within 3-5 years. Humidity decreases especially strongly in the first year of drying. Throughout this time, the dimensions of the beam also change.

When dried, deep cracks appear in the timber, into which water and cold easily penetrate.

These properties of building timber timber have to be taken seriously when building log houses.

For example, you can lay floors, sheathe ceilings, finish the attic from the inside without waiting for the shrinkage of the log house. Doors and windows are installed immediately, always leaving shrinkage gaps.

But to insulate and finish the walls outside and inside, install a permanent staircase, lay a stove, do it inside frame partitions better after a year or two, when the shrinkage of the log house is basically over.

If the walls from the timber will not be sheathed, then one or two edges of the timber are planed or ground and chamfered from the ribs before being laid into the wall.

How to choose the thickness of the walls of a house from a bar

Standard construction timber in cross section it can be square or rectangular and have side dimensions: 100, 150 and 200 mm. By special order, many manufacturers can produce timber with sides up to 250 mm. But price 1 m 3 timber of non-standard size will be noticeably higher.

Thus, the thickness of the wall of the house, given by the dimensions of the beam, maybe 100, 150 or 200 - 250 mm.

The thickness of the walls from the timber is selected based on the need to provide the necessary strength and rigidity of the walls of the building. In addition, the wall should protect the house from the cold.

The strength, stability of the walls depends not only on their thickness, but also on the configuration of the walls of the house, the presence and size of openings, etc. design features at home, as well as on build quality.

Traditionally, it is considered that for one-story buildings, walls made of timber with a thickness of 100-150 will be sufficiently stable mm. Higher buildings are built from timber with a wall thickness of 150-200 mm.

If the house is intended for permanent residence and will be heated all year round, That . Without additional insulation, wooden houses made of timber do not meet modern energy saving standards.

The figure, for example, shows the values of thermal resistance R k of walls made of timber of different thicknesses, with and without mineral wool insulation. The thermal resistances of each layer are indicated and total value for the wall as a whole.

Thermal resistance Rk of timber walls with and without insulation.

Comparing walls made of timber of different thicknesses, it is easy to see that for an insulated wall, the thermal resistance weakly depends on the thickness of the timber. Insulated wall made of timber 150 thick mm only 12% "warmer" than a 100 mm thick wall mm. (R k =2.22 and 2.50).

From this we conclude for a timber wall with insulation, it is advantageous to use a timber of a smaller section. For example, for a one-story building, it is enough to make walls 100 thick mm. from a bar 100х150-200 mm. and insulate them with slabs of mineral wool layer thickness 100-150 mm.

When choosing the dimensions of the timber and the design of the walls of the house, other factors must also be taken into account. A house with thicker timber walls still has advantages. For example, the larger the cross section of the beam, the less it warps when dried, the less the walls are deformed. The thick wall of the house has a higher heat capacity - it serves as a good heat accumulator, the house has better sound insulation and vibration resistance.

The insulated facade of the house made of timber is sheathed from the outside. Sheathing gives the building an attractive appearance and protects the insulation and walls from atmospheric influences. For sheathing, or is usually used, as well as wooden moldings - lining, block house, imitation of a log or beam, etc.

Country houses for seasonal residence only in summer and short-term arrivals in winter, as well as baths may not be insulated. For such buildings, it is better to choose a wall thickness from a larger beam, at least 150 mm.

Foundation, lower trim and basement of a house made of timber

For a house or a bath from a bar it is enough and profitable to arrange shallow foundation.

Depending on the soil conditions at the construction site and the size of the building, the following constructions of shallow and non-buried foundations:

For a house made of timber without a basement it is inexpedient to arrange. Such foundations, including on screw or bored piles with a grillage, are expensive and do not always protect the house from deformations caused by frost heaving of the soil.

The width of the basement or grillage tape under the outer walls of the house is chosen based on the following considerations:

A wall beam with a thickness of 100, 150 or 200 should fit on the basement (grillage) mm.
From the inside, the beams of the basement floor are supported on the basement. Support length - 140 mm.;
Outside, a ledge is left from the wall for sheathing and a low tide device - 50 - 70 mm.

Thus, for load-bearing walls made of timber with a thickness of 150 mm. the width of the plinth tape must be at least 350 mm. ( 150 mm + 140 mm + 60 mm).

Under self-supporting walls, where only the wall rests on the plinth, the width of the plinth can be reduced to 300 mm. Less than 300 mm. the width of the plinth made of reinforced concrete or masonry materials is not recommended to ensure lateral stability strip foundation.

A wooden house will be durable if the lower crowns of the log house are above the snow cover at the construction site. For example, the height of the snow cover in the Moscow region is 0.6 m. The height of a properly arranged blind area 0.2 m. Then, the safe height of the plinth for a wooden house should be 0.8 m.

The figure below shows a variant of an unburied strip foundation, combined with a plinth, for one-story house with an attic and with walls made of timber.

Two options for arranging a strip foundation for a one-story house made of timber: a - a shallow foundation for bearing wall; b - not buried foundation for the bearing wall; c - a shallow foundation for a self-supporting wall. 1 - foundation tape; 2 - air hole; 3 - sand cushion; 4 - top and bottom layer of crushed stone 5-10 cm; 5 - backfill; 6 - vertical backfilling of the construction site; 7 - vertical backfilling of slopes around an unburied foundation; 8 - bottom and top waterproofing of the basement.

Tape monolithic foundation- the basement shown in the figure is designed for building a house on weak peaty soils of the "former swamp", with high level ground water.

The foundation strip of concrete grade B25 is reinforced at the lower and upper levels with three longitudinal bars of the main reinforcement of class A-III, with a diameter of 12 mm. The value of the protective layer of concrete for reinforcement in foundations - 50 mm.

To increase the bearing capacity of the soil, reduce the degree of its heaving, as well as to drain surface water from the house, soil is dumped within the boundaries of the foundation, plus at least 1.5 meters outside, pos. 6 in the figure. Backfilling is carried out with non-heaving sandy soil.

For soils with a higher bearing capacity, the width of the base of the foundation can be reduced to 500 - 350 mm.

Sand cushion, pos.3, is laid in layers of 100 mm. on a layer of washed crushed stone rammed into natural soil pos.4. Each layer of sand under the sole of the foundation is carefully rammed.

On a sand cushion under the sole of the foundation, a layer of crushed stone is again laid and rammed, pos.4. Compacted crushed stone is shed with heated bitumen, which, after solidification, creates a waterproofing film under the base of the foundation. The bitumen film prevents cement laitance from leaving the sand when pouring the foundation, and subsequently does not let water through the capillaries of the concrete foundation tape.

The side surfaces of the foundation in contact with the ground are smeared twice with heated bituminous mastic. The concrete surface is primed before applying the mastic.

More detailed information about device various designs for shallow foundations, see the links above.

A house with a grillage on piles with a basement floor is more expensive, more difficult to build and operate than a house on a shallow or not buried foundation with.

Traditionally, a wooden house is made with a basement and a cold underground - leaving a space between the ground and the floor of the lower floor.

The emergence of new thermal insulation materials allows you to build a wooden house without a basement with cheaper, warmer and more durable floors on the ground:

To learn how to make such a floor in a house from a bar, click on the picture

The lower strapping of the walls of the timber

bars bottom strapping along the contour of the walls, they are laid on the basement tape through a layer of waterproofing. The surface of the plinth is coated with bituminous mastic, on which a layer of waterproofing is laid.

Outside, the dimensions of the lower trim are recommended to be 50-70 less than the dimensions of the foundation mm. from each side. Sheathing bars are supported on the outer ledge of the foundation, and the joint between and the strapping is closed sheet metal- ebb. In addition, if the walls hang heavily from the foundation, then it looks ugly.

The joint of the lower trim and the base is covered with a metal sheen. The ebb sheets are fixed on the strapping beam with self-tapping screws. Wall cladding is performed over the ebb.

The bars of the lower trim and the wooden parts of the basement are recommended to be planed and treated with a protective antiseptic. The bioprotective composition must be intended for the treatment of raw wood. Planed and impregnated wood does not rot longer.

Do not coat raw wood with oil- or bitumen-based compounds. The depth of impregnation with such compositions will be small, and the waterproof film on the surface of the timber will conserve moisture inside the wood.

Bioprotection is effective only during the first few years after application, protecting the wood during its drying period.

To protect the strapping beams from moisture for a long time, it is recommended under the beams, on the basement waterproofing, to lay a gasket along the entire length dry antiseptic board wrapped with roofing material.

Modern advanced builders make such gasket between trim and plinth made of extruded polystyrene foam(penoplex, etc.) 40 mm thick.

The gasket protects the beams from moisture, which can accumulate on the surface of the plinth waterproofing as a result of vapor condensation or soaking. By changing the thickness of the gasket, you can align the strapping bars to the horizon.

The bars of the lower harness are interconnected with construction brackets or galvanized steel linings.

After assembling and checking the diagonals (rectangularity) of the strapping frame, its position on the foundation tape is marked with paint - marks are applied to the timber and waterproofing. This is necessary to control the position of the frame during the installation of walls.

It is not recommended to fasten the strapping bars to the foundation. It should be remembered that during the drying process, the dimensions of the beam decrease, and the dimensions of the foundation remain constant. Temporary fasteners can be installed that fix the position of the piping frame on the foundation only for the period of installation of walls.

Socle ceiling of a house made of timber

For the construction of a traditional basement floor, the structural scheme "beams - logs" is most often used.

Beams from a bar or boards on an edge it is better to lay on the ledge of the base. Such a ceiling design, when the beams are loosely connected to the strapping beams, provides better safety and ease of replacement of wooden parts in the basement of the house. Moisture from the beams is not transferred to the strapping beam, and vice versa. If needed the floor beam or strapping beam can be replaced relatively easily.

From above, across the beams, bars are fixed - logs. Insulation is laid between the beams and between the lags. Slabs or black floor boards are laid on the logs.

This cover design allows:

Arrange the logs with a step convenient for laying subfloor slabs.
Get a rigid structure and a total floor height of at least 200mm using cheaper lumber with a smaller section. Such a ceiling height is necessary for laying insulation plates of the required thickness between the beams and lags.

The construction of the basement only on beams, without a log, is used when using thick boards - 40 mm as a subfloor. and more, and beams with a height of 200 mm.

Beams should be laid so that there was a ventilation gap between their ends and the strapping (2 cm) . This is done with the help of gaskets, which are removed after fastening the beams with brackets or steel plates (see Fig., Node B). The end of the beam must rest on the plinth for a length of at least 120 mm.

The technology for installing beams is simple. First, mount the extreme beams and align them in a horizontal plane. After that, a board is placed on the edge between them and intermediate beams are installed on it. The work is usually controlled visually, and if necessary, a level is applied. Temporary technological flooring from boards is laid on the beams.

On the base, the ends of the beams are laid in the same way as the strapping beam, through a layer of waterproofing and leveling pads.

Before installing the basement, the space under the floor is thoroughly cleaned of wood residues and other debris that can rot. The surface of the earth under the floor is covered with sandy soil with a layer thickness of 10 cm . and ram it.

Over sand preparation the soil in the subfield is covered over the entire surface roll waterproofing based on bituminous materials with careful gluing of the joints of the panels. Waterproofing is wrapped on the walls of the basement and glued to them.

A modern solution that provides comfort and saves on heating costs is a device.

To learn how to make such a warm floor without concrete screed, click on the picture.

Double strapping of walls from a bar

There is another version of the device for the lower strapping of a log house - double strapping. The double strap design is well shown in the video clip.

The purpose of the double strapping device is to the floor beams rested on the protrusion of the lower beam, without cutting into the upper beam of the strapping.

The time will come, and, as mentioned above, such an independent laying of beams will make it quite easy to replace defective beams and strapping bars. In addition, the durability of wooden strapping parts is increased.

According to building codes the ends of the beams must rest on the lower beam for a length of at least 100 mm. Therefore, the lower beam is recommended to choose a width of at least 200 mm.

Double strapping is beneficial to use in structures, when the width of the basement (grillage) does not allow floor beams to rest on it.

In country houses log houses on piles or columnar foundations, often a separate grillage is not made. The lower beam of the strapping is laid directly on the pile heads or foundation columns. In this design, the lower beam of the double strapping actually serves as a grillage. Floor beams in this case are often cut into the upper strapping beam. This is a cheaper and less durable option.

Three ways to connect timber in the corners of the walls

When building houses or baths, the following three methods of connecting beams at the corners of walls are most popular:

Connection "to the floor of the tree." At the ends of the bars, horizontal cuts are made in half the thickness and the ends are laid on top of each other. The parts in the connection must be fastened with building brackets, galvanized steel linings or dowels. The connection is easy to do, but requires additional fastening of parts and is “cold”, due to easily blown gaps.
Connection in a one-sided key groove is an analogue of the connection, which is traditionally used in log cabins from round logs. The connection is “warm”, strong, but difficult to implement in a construction site. Most often, in log cabins, it is used in the manufacture of parts in the factory.
In dressing with a root spike - the most common corner connection of the bars. The profile of such a connection is quite easy to mark and cut out. The gaps in the tongue-and-groove lock are sealed by pushing the interventional insulation from above.

The "wood floor" connection is usually used in the corners to fasten the beams of the lower trim of the building.

Connections of partitions from a bar with an external wall

The connection of the beam of the inner wall - partitions with a crown outer wall the type of groove - the spike turns out to be “warm”, since it does not have through joints to the outside. This connection is easy to make.

"Warm" connection of the beams of the partition and the outer wall. 1- main timber; 2 - dobor beam; 3 - partition beam

In every fourth crown of the log house, the partition beam is fastened to the wall beam with building brackets, or galvanized steel overlays.

The figure below shows the connection node in the crown of three bars at once - the outer wall, the bay window and the inner wall - the partition.

The connection of the beam in the crowns of the outer wall, the bay window and the inner wall - partitions

The connection of the bars in this unit is made using rectangular keys that are inserted into the grooves in the parts to be joined.

In one crown, the end of the beam of the outer wall is adjacent to the end of the beam of the bay window, and the end of the beam of the partition is adjacent to the beam of the wall. In the next crown, the ends of the beam of the outer wall and the bay window are adjacent from different sides to the beam of the partition.

Timber for houses, baths in your city

Bar. natural humidity. Edged. Log cabin

Steel perforated fasteners for timber

The wooden parts of a house made of timber are traditionally connected and fastened together with the help of tie-ins, cuts, spikes, grooves of various configurations, as well as steel building brackets and nails.

IN last years perforated steel fasteners appeared on the construction market, specially designed for connecting wooden parts in construction.

When developing designs and dimensions of connectors, the following factors were taken into account: standard sizes wooden parts that are widely used in construction, as well as the loads that wooden parts usually withstand.

Steel perforated fasteners - support for a wooden beam.

For example, the article above repeatedly emphasized the need to attach floor beams to the strapping beams without notches in order to ensure simple replacement floor beams and do not loosen the strapping.

The use of metal supports for attaching the beams to the strapping beams makes it easy to solve this problem and, in some cases, simplify the design of the basement of the house.

The beam support is made of 2.5 mm thick galvanized steel. with high strength values.

The metal part of the support must cover at least 2/3 of the height of the beam.

The dimensions of the "mouth" of the steel support must correspond to the width of the beam, and the height of the support is chosen at least 2/3 of the height of the beam.

TO wooden details the steel support is screwed with self-tapping screws. The load-bearing capacity of a beam connector is equal to the sum of the load-bearing capacities of the screws that fasten the support to the beam.

In order to use the connector's load-bearing capacity to the full, self-tapping screws are screwed into each hole of the steel support. If this is not necessary, then the self-tapping screws must be screwed into the beam into the upper and lower, and then into every second hole. In the strapping beam, self-tapping screws are screwed into each hole of the row located closer to the beam.

The length of the screws is chosen equal to half the width of the beam. The diameter of the screws should be slightly smaller than the size of the holes in the steel support.

Instead of self-tapping screws, you can use "ruffed" nails. Ordinary nails with a smooth surface cannot be used.

The gap between the end of the beam and the strapping beam is allowed no more than 3 mm.

You can use perforated steel fasteners in other structures of a log house. For example, construction staples convenient to replace with mounting plates or corners.

A wide variety of perforated steel fasteners are available for a wide variety of timber structures.

Of course, you can admire the art of our ancestors, who built without a single nail. But taking an example from them and trying to repeat it now hardly makes sense.

Modern technologies allow a lot of things to be done faster, stronger, and cheaper. For example, it is convenient to connect a beam, a beam along the length using such a gerbera connector.

A typical application of a gerbera beam connector is connection and splicing of beams, purlins, rafters not on a support, but in a span, in the absence of bending and torque moments in the articulation unit.

Connectors should be located from the support at a distance of 1/7 of the span length L. Calculations show that at this distance from the support to the beam, girder or rafter, the minimum bending and torsional moments will act.

Always use a pair of connectors for each connection. The height of the connector must be equal to the height of the beam. Gerber connectors are made of 2mm thick galvanized steel.

House made of planed timber

The manufacturing technology of planed timber is characterized by the need to dry the feedstock (sawn timber) up to 18-20%. Only after carrying out this procedure, it is processed on special machines - planed. The result is a stronger, smoother and smoother building material.

A house made of planed timber will cost more than sawn timber, but its characteristics are somewhat more attractive.

Houses made of dry timber are distinguished by less shrinkage - their main plus compared to sawn timber. In some cases, this factor is decisive when choosing the type of timber for construction.

The room creates a special microclimate, coziness and comfort.

The walls of the house made of planed timber, even without finishing, look very decent. The natural beauty of wood pleases and soothes. If there is a desire, with the help of modern finishing materials the walls can be given a look for every taste.

House from calibrated timber

A calibrated beam is a building material that has exact geometric dimensions and shape. The size of the section (14-20 cm) of the calibrated timber affects the thermal insulation performance. How larger size, the higher these figures.

The shape can be different - rectangular, square, even round. The main thing is the same, verified size.

This type of timber is widely demanded in suburban housing construction. The middle part of the log is the basis of the calibrated timber, which gives the product special strength.

The humidity of the timber is an important factor that is crucial in the construction of houses of this type. In the production of calibrated timber, the method of chamber drying is used (drying in special cells). There are certain technological requirements that ensure uniform heating of wood, which excludes the possibility of timber deformation during further operation. The maximum moisture content of wood after processing in drying chamber- only 12%.

Houses made of chamber-drying timber have minimal shrinkage, which is a significant advantage in the construction of low-rise housing construction.

Houses made of calibrated timber are very reliable, since the crowns are firmly attached due to interlock connections produced during the processing of bars on the machine.

The environmental friendliness of a house made of solid timber, including calibrated timber, is beyond doubt. natural softwood provides a pleasant and healthy atmosphere in a house filled with the invigorating aroma of the forest.

The appearance of cottages made of calibrated timber catches the eye. Even, smooth, wonderfully colored houses against the backdrop of delicate greenery of a lawn or just beds ennoble any site.

The cost of calibrated timber is much lower than profiled or glued timber, which will be discussed below. A finished house made of calibrated timber, subject to a conscientious attitude to the work of the manufacturer, can last for several decades.

House from profiled timber

Profiled timber is a product that has a special profile that promotes a tight connection of structural elements.

Wooden houses from profiled timber have a number of advantages that are already formed at the production stage. The basis of the high quality of this wall material- low percentage of wood moisture. Milling on the machine can only be carried out after this figure is less than 22 percent. Otherwise, the quality is out of the question.

Houses made of dry profiled timber of a high standard are much less prone to shrinkage than those made of planed timber.

A frame from a profiled beam is assembled by using two types of connections: a tenon-groove or a comb. One or another type of connection is just a profile, from which the name “profiled timber” comes from.

If a spike-groove is used, the interventional grooves of a house made of professional timber must be insulated and sealed. This is necessary in order to prevent wind from blowing through cracks that may form as a result of wood shrinkage. Log houses from profiled timber are sealed with foamed polymers or natural flax jute interventional insulation.

A sealant is not required if the house is assembled from profiled timber using a comb profile. The maximum tight fit of the protrusions to each other prevents moisture from entering the interventional seams and blowing through the walls of the house from the profiled timber, which, in turn, provides good thermal insulation.

Today, manufacturers offer sets of profiled timber houses with prefabricated elements. In this case, it will not even be possible to build a house from a profiled beam experienced builder, since the assembly of a log house from a profiled beam turns into an assembly of a finished house constructor.

Finishing a house from profiled timber is practically not required, since the natural structure of the tree from which the timber is made is beautiful in itself.

The cost of a house made of profiled timber is the “golden mean” between houses made of planed or calibrated timber and glued timber.

Glued beam house

The cost of a house made of glued laminated timber is quite high. This modern building material is made from boards (lamellas) glued and pressed, pre-dried to 6 percent moisture content. Wood fibers are arranged in opposite directions. This technology guarantees a decrease in thermal conductivity and an increase in the strength of the timber. High-quality front surfaces make the log cabin beautiful, durable and reliable.

Exterior decoration of a house made of glued laminated timber, as a rule, is not carried out. It is not necessary, since the beam does not crack due to the high degree of drying and retains its original beauty for a long time. The timber is protected from rotting by special impregnations.

The shrinkage of a house from glued laminated timber is minimal, so you can build a house from it quickly enough. Another plus: wooden houses from glued laminated timber are built at any time of the year, if it is possible to get to the construction site.

The material consisting of several layers of veneer has improved strength characteristics. It is called LVL beam, which in English means "glued veneer beam". LVL glued laminated timber is based on spruce, larch or pine wood

The production technology of LVL glued laminated lumber (LVL) is quite complex and labor-intensive, which explains the high cost of the finished material. Therefore, LVL timber is not used as the main building material.

Usually LVL timber is used as a support material. Its increased strength guarantees the stability and reliability of ridge beams and rafters, frame racks, floor logs, window and door lintels, and various kinds of ceilings. Well proved as elements of ladders, not only bearing, but also protecting.

The modern market offers the new kind material for the construction of houses from timber - D-shaped glued laminated timber. Very interesting solution those who have a desire to live in a building that looks like log house outside and flat walls inside. Glued D-shaped timber imitating round logs retains all the advantages of glued laminated timber (strength, durability, minimal shrinkage) and is extremely attractive from the point of view of the possibility of implementing design ideas.

Painting a house from glued laminated timber is carried out to protect wood from external factors, as well as to decorate walls. There is a large number paintwork materials with which you can achieve great results.

The disadvantages of glued laminated timber houses are very few, but they can play decisive role when choosing building material for a wooden house. One of them is the high cost of quality timber. Here, each developer evaluates his own capabilities. The second point is the presence in finished material synthetic substances, such as glue. There is an opinion that the ecological cleanliness of the structure is reduced. It should be noted that the degree of environmental friendliness of glued laminated timber depends on the quality of the glue and impregnations. It is necessary to purchase building materials for building a house from trusted suppliers. Well, in the case of a complete denial of any chemistry, it probably makes sense not to use glued laminated timber, but to opt for other, more environmentally friendly materials.

Conclusion

There are many types of timber for the construction of a residential building. Each of them has its pros and cons. To build a house from glued laminated timber, corrugated timber or solid timber - everyone decides on their own. The main thing is to prioritize for yourself. Having become acquainted with the features of the material, with the terms of construction of the building, cost and other important factors, you can draw the right conclusions and start realizing your dream.