Everyone once had old TVs, such big, tube, with a domed screen and in most cases black and white. Many of them have long been thrown into the trash or dismantled for spare parts, while someone still has them somewhere in the shed. It would be nice if such a TV brought at least some benefit, and did not take up space and collect dust. In today's article, we will talk about some cool ideas that can be made from an old TV. It will be interesting!
Aquarium
So, the first craft that will be discussed is an aquarium from a TV. Do not be surprised or think that this is some kind of joke, no, everything is serious here. In addition, the aquarium is very popular among TV crafts. One has only to write in the search engine "what can be done from an old TV", as immediately the first proposed option will be exactly the aquarium.
What will need to be done to make it work? Yes, in general, there is nothing particularly complicated here.
First you need to very carefully remove all the insides of the TV, they will no longer be needed. Ideally, only the body should remain. The back wall (cover) also needs to be removed.
The next step is to pick up a ready-made aquarium in the store that fits inside the TV. For greater beauty, the aquarium can be pasted over with a film with a marine theme. So it will look more interesting.
Now you need to unfasten the upper part of the body and make it either completely removable so that the fish can be fed, or attach loops to it to make a folding design. Also, a lamp must be screwed on the bottom of the lid, which will serve as a light source for the fish.
Actually, almost everything is ready. We place the aquarium inside the case, insert a frame in front that covered the screen, fill in water, launch the fish, lower the lid and connect the lamp. Voila!
Mini bar
The next thing you can do from an old TV is a mini-bar. Not everyone in a house or apartment has their own personal little bar for one simple reason - there is no place. However, if you have an old TV at hand, then this problem will quickly become solvable.
The procedure here is:
- Pulled out and removed all the "insides".
- If installed at the back plastic cover, then it is recommended to remove it, and instead of it, screw a piece of shield plywood or fiberboard to the body.
- From the inside of the wall of the future mini-bar for beauty, it is recommended to paste over some self-adhesive film. Also, some users prefer to make a small highlight from LED lamps inside the hull.
- In general, the main work is completed and already on this stage, the minibar can start filling up. If there is a desire, then you can improve this household item and make the front flip cover, which would cover containers with booze from prying eyes. In addition, some users devote a lot of time to the external decoration of the TV case in order to get something very original and beautiful. But here much depends on desire and imagination.
house for a cat
What else can be done from an old TV? How about a home for your beloved pet? A tailed friend will be very happy with such a gift.
The house is made quite simply. To begin with, all the "stuffing" and the kinescope of the TV are removed. Only the body should remain. The back wall, if made of plastic, is replaced by fiberboard sheet.
locker
A small and tidy locker - that's what else you can do with an old TV. This craft will not take up much space in the interior and will look very harmonious, giving a certain zest.
The locker is made according to the principle similar to the previous crafts. First, the "insides" are removed, then, if necessary, the back wall is changed. The next stage - shelves are installed inside the cabinet so that they can be placed on them small items, books or something else. You can, of course, do without shelves, there are already some wishes.
After the body is ready, you can start decorating. Here, too, much depends on the imagination and wishes. Some simply paint everything in one color, some make the cabinet multi-colored, someone completely glues the walls with film and wallpaper.
The final stage - we put the locker where it will stand and fill it.
flower bed
Continuing the theme of "what can be done with an old tube TV", one cannot fail to note such usefulness as a flower bed. Yes, an old TV may well become a decoration of a garden or a flower garden.
A flower bed can be made different ways. The easiest is to pull out all the "stuffing" from the TV, put the case on back wall, pour earth inside the box and sow flower seeds there. You can also immediately transplant a flower there and not wait until the seeds germinate.
Another way to make a flower bed, which is slightly different from the previous one. The TV is also cleaned of all the "insides", the back wall is removed, it is painted in some bright color, after which, earth is poured inside, and flowers are planted there. This flower bed will look especially beautiful with plants that grow strongly and branch abundantly. Also, such a flower bed can be suspended and get an even more interesting result.
Bedside table
The next thing you can do with your own hands from an old TV is a bedside table. This simple, but at the same time useful piece of furniture is done simply and without much effort.
The principle here is somewhat similar to the locker. First, the body is prepared, partitions are set up, you can even try to make a small drawer. After that, the bedside table is painted in the desired color and, in principle, it can be used.
However, if you go to hardware store and buy several different foam moldings there, then from an ordinary unpretentious bedside table you can completely make a piece of furniture in classical style.
photography lamp
Well, the last piece. Here we are not talking about a simple tube TV, but about an old device with a flat, but broken screen. Surely someone has one at home. Many people think that if the screen is broken, then you just need to throw it away, but in vain. Now we will tell you what can be done from an old Samsung, Sony, LG and other brands with a broken flat screen.
We're talking about a photography lamp. Probably everyone has seen such lamps in a photo studio.
Here's what to do:
- We dismantle the TV.
- Detach the broken screen.
- We assemble the TV back, plug it into the outlet and enjoy the finished craft. If desired, it will be possible to design some kind of mount so that the "lamp" can be installed as needed.
Watch a helpful video showing how this lamp is made.
"Everything is temporary. Love, art, planet Earth, you, me. Especially me." (99 Franks)
Nothing in this world lasts forever, and the life of gadgets is sometimes very fleeting. But if you love retro style, are frugal and resourceful by nature, then you can give them a second chance by converting them into something useful and looking retro.
5. Turning an old mouse into a wireless one
Older mice aren't as comfortable and ergonomic as newer models, but they feel as comfortable as an old shirt that's so old that you sneak it around the house on the weekends when no one sees it, simply because it's been with you for a long time and you you are used to it :) If you are still using an old wired mouse, or have kept it as an old fighting friend, then now is the time to convert it into a wireless Bluetooth mouse, simply by replacing the insides of the old mouse with the insides of the new one.
Let's say right away that this decision was dictated solely by a sense of nostalgia, rather than practical considerations. If an old mouse is too uncomfortable for weekly use, then you can make a camera shutter out of it.
4. Turning an analog TV into an information terminal
Most likely, you have already updated your entire fleet of TVs for a long time, and the old people, CRT monitors, are gathering dust at best, somewhere in the country. You can give an old TV new life, turning it into a YBOX (homemade information screen showing, for example, the weather).
An alternative use is a retro photo frame, which can be placed in the living room. To turn a TV into a photo frame, you need to remove the insides of the TV and replace them with the old sockets and power cord from the lamp, screw in a low power CFL lamp, insert a printed image on the screen, close it and turn on the “TV”.
Now you have a fun retro frame.
If you don't want to waste electricity, make their old monitor a trash can.
3. We make an aquarium out of an old TV or computer
A project from the "incredible but true" series marked "dangerous". Do at your own risk. If you have an old TV, computer, or other junk with lots of space inside, you can turn it into an aquarium.
If you want to use Floppy disks for their intended purpose, then you can put USB in them.
1. Making a VoIP phone out of a rotary phone
If you're having a hard time saying goodbye to your old rotary phone, you can turn it into a fun PC headset to use with Google Voice, Skype, or any other VoIP solution.
If you have a few useless cordless phones (not exactly old ones), then you can make good walkie-talkie radios out of them.
I hope this collection of ideas for transforming old gadgets has inspired you. By following the links you will see visual guides on how to do this or that thing, on English language. All guides are provided with a good visualization of each of the conversion steps.
"Everything is temporary. Love, art, planet Earth, you, me. Especially me." (99 Franks)
Nothing in this world lasts forever, and the life of gadgets is sometimes very fleeting. But if you love retro style, are frugal and resourceful by nature, then you can give them a second chance by converting them into something useful and looking retro.
5. Turning an old mouse into a wireless one
Older mice aren't as comfortable and ergonomic as newer models, but they feel as comfortable as an old shirt that's so old that you sneak it around the house on the weekends when no one sees it, simply because it's been with you for a long time and you you are used to it :) If you are still using an old wired mouse, or have kept it as an old fighting friend, then now is the time to convert it into a wireless Bluetooth mouse, simply by replacing the insides of the old mouse with the insides of the new one.
Let's say right away that this is a decision dictated solely by a sense of nostalgia, rather than practical considerations. If an old mouse is too uncomfortable for weekly use, then you can make a camera shutter out of it.
4. Turning an analog TV into an information terminal
Most likely, you have already updated your entire fleet of TVs for a long time, and the old people, CRT monitors, are gathering dust at best, somewhere in the country. You can give an old TV a new lease of life by turning it into a YBOX (homemade information screen that shows, for example, the weather).
An alternative use is a retro photo frame, which can be placed in the living room. To turn a TV into a photo frame, you need to remove the insides of the TV and replace them with the old sockets and power cord from the lamp, screw in a low power CFL lamp, insert a printed image on the screen, close it and turn on the “TV”.
Now you have a fun retro frame.
If you don't want to waste electricity, make their old monitor a trash can.
3. We make an aquarium out of an old TV or computer
A project from the "incredible but true" series marked "dangerous". Do at your own risk. If you have an old TV, computer, or other junk with lots of space inside, you can turn it into an aquarium.
If you want to use Floppy disks for their intended purpose, then you can put USB in them.
1. Making a VoIP phone out of a rotary phone
If you're having a hard time saying goodbye to your old rotary phone, you can turn it into a fun PC headset to use with Google Voice, Skype, or any other VoIP solution.
If you have a few useless cordless phones (not exactly old ones), then you can make good walkie-talkie radios out of them.
I hope this collection of ideas for transforming old gadgets has inspired you. By clicking on the links you will see visual guides on how to do this or that thing in English. All guides are provided with a good visualization of each of the conversion steps.
Hello to all DIYers, as usual, every novice radio amateur has an idea to do something, but the first thing that usually comes to mind is to assemble an amplifier that will be easy to assemble and does not require financial costs. That is why I decided to assemble an amplifier, the main “heart” of which can be removed from an unnecessary or old TV, I will tell you how to make it in this article.
To assemble the sound amplifier, we need to prepare everything the right materials, This:
TV, unnecessary or just old, please note that you will not find such an amplifier on TVs made in the USSR.
Soldering iron and everything you need to use it, stand, solder and flux.
Wires are perfect from a computer power supply.
Plug for tulips, such can be found in the radio, DVD player or music center.
A clip for the wires through which the sound amplified by the amplifier will go is also found in most music systems.
Cooling radiator, I removed from an old vinyl player.
Power supply from a laptop, the insides will not be needed, but only the case.
Pliers.
Two-pin plug, according to the diameter of the contact, it fits into the block from the PC.
Stationery knife for making holes.
After all the details are ready and you have definitely decided that the moment has come when you can make a simple amplifier, you can proceed to step by step assembly.
Step one. As usual, the TV is made in a plastic case, we remove it to get to the board. Attention, before disassembling, remove the plug from the outlet, it is not in vain that high voltage is written on the TV. After the cover is removed, you can see the board, there is a radiator on it, which is usually made in the form of sheet aluminum, you need to cut the board with metal scissors or with pliers, leave more than 10 cm around the microcircuit, since the board should remain working.
Step two. In order to make a sound amplifier from the “insides” of the TV, you need to find information on the Internet on the microcircuit, the marking of which is written on it in white letters with a set of numbers, in this case it is the TDA 2611 microcircuit, the data about it is in the datasheet and the switching circuit, see on the picture.
It is according to the scheme that we will give the microcircuit a second life.
Further assembly will take place using the circuit shown in the picture. Using a soldering iron, we solder a pre-tinned red wire to the 1st leg of the microcircuit, the countdown goes to the right, this wire is a power plus, for a minus we take the black wire, which we solder to the 6th leg, these two wires are fixed on the plug.
We figured out the power, now you need to make a sound input, which can be supplied from any player or phone using a jack plug adapter on one side and a pair of tulips on the other. We solder the inputs for these tulips to the 7th leg through a resistor fixed on the board at the entrance and the 6th leg.
We make the sound output on the clamps, the wires of which we connect to the track of the 2nd leg of the microcircuit that goes after the capacitor by 220 microfarads, the second contact goes, as in most cases, to the minuses.
Part of the amplifier electronics is ready, now we need a good noble case with cooling. Without thinking twice, I opted for a power supply for charging a laptop, the case from it seemed to me to be good. Well, let's get started. To begin with, we will open up its contents and, using a clerical knife, cut out holes for tulips and food on one side and on the other for sound output.
All plugs are attached with hot glue. At the end, it is necessary to screw the amplifier chip onto the radiator and also fix it with hot glue.
Many in the household would need an apparatus for electric welding of parts made of ferrous metals. Since mass-produced welders are quite expensive, many radio amateurs try to make welding inverter with your own hands.
We already had an article about that, but this time I offer an even simpler version of a home-made welding inverter from available do-it-yourself parts.
Of the two main options for the design of the apparatus - with a welding transformer or based on a converter - the second one was chosen.
Indeed, a welding transformer is a large and heavy magnetic circuit and a lot of copper wire for windings, which is inaccessible to many. Electronic components for the converter with their right choice not scarce and relatively cheap.
How I made a welding machine with my own hands
From the very beginning of my work, I set myself the task of creating the most simple and cheap welding machine using widely used parts and assemblies in it.
As a result of quite lengthy experiments with various types converter on transistors and trinistors, a circuit was drawn up, shown in fig. 1.
Simple transistor converters turned out to be extremely capricious and unreliable, and trinistor converters withstand the output shorting without damage until the fuse blows. In addition, trinistors heat up much less than transistors.
As you can easily see, the circuit design is not original - it is an ordinary single-cycle converter, its advantage is in the simplicity of design and the absence of scarce components, the device uses a lot of radio components from old TVs.
And, finally, it practically does not require adjustment.
The scheme of the inverter welding machine is presented below:
Genus welding current- constant, regulation - smooth. In my opinion, this is the simplest welding inverter that you can assemble with your own hands.
When butt-welding steel sheets 3 mm thick with an electrode 3 mm in diameter, the steady current consumed by the machine from the mains does not exceed 10 A. The welding voltage is switched on by a button located on the electrode holder, which allows, on the one hand, to use an increased arc ignition voltage and increase electrical safety, on the other hand, since when the electrode holder is released, the voltage on the electrode is automatically turned off. The increased voltage facilitates the ignition of the arc and ensures the stability of its burning.
A little trick: a do-it-yourself welding inverter circuit allows you to connect thin sheet metal. To do this, you need to change the polarity of the welding current.
Mains voltage rectifies the diode bridge VD1-VD4. The rectified current, flowing through the lamp HL1, begins to charge the capacitor C5. The lamp serves as a charging current limiter and an indicator of this process.
Welding should be started only after the HL1 lamp goes out. At the same time, battery capacitors C6-C17 are charged through the inductor L1. The glow of the HL2 LED indicates that the device is connected to the network. Trinistor VS1 is still closed.
When you press the SB1 button, a pulse generator is started at a frequency of 25 kHz, assembled on a unijunction transistor VT1. The generator pulses open the VS2 trinistor, which, in turn, opens the VS3-VS7 trinistors connected in parallel. Capacitors C6-C17 are discharged through the inductor L2 and the primary winding of the transformer T1. Circuit choke L2 - primary winding of transformer T1 - capacitors C6-C17 is an oscillatory circuit.
When the direction of the current in the circuit changes to the opposite, the current begins to flow through the diodes VD8, VD9, and the trinistors VS3-VS7 close until the next pulse of the generator on the transistor VT1.
The pulses that appear on the winding III of the transformer T1 open the trinistor VS1. which directly connects the mains diode rectifier VD1 - VD4 with a trinistor converter.
The HL3 LED serves to indicate the process of generating a pulsed voltage. Diodes VD11-VD34 rectify the welding voltage, and capacitors C19 - C24 smooth it out, thereby facilitating the ignition of the welding arc.
Switch SA1 is a packet or other switch for a current of at least 16 A. Section SA1.3 closes capacitor C5 to resistor R6 when turned off and quickly discharges this capacitor, which allows, without fear of electric shock, to inspect and repair the device.
The VN-2 fan (with an M1 electric motor according to the scheme) provides forced cooling of the device components. Less powerful fans it is not recommended to use, or you will have to install several of them. Capacitor C1 - any designed to operate at AC voltage 220 V.
Rectifier diodes VD1-VD4 must be rated for a current of at least 16 A and a reverse voltage of at least 400 V. They must be installed on plate-shaped corner heat sinks 60x15 mm in size, 2 mm thick, made of aluminum alloy.
Instead of a single capacitor C5, you can use a battery of several connected in parallel for a voltage of at least 400 V each, while the battery capacity may be greater than that indicated in the diagram.
Choke L1 is made on a steel magnetic circuit PL 12.5x25-50. Any other magnetic circuit of the same or larger cross section is also suitable, provided that the winding is placed in its window. The winding consists of 175 turns of wire PEV-2 1.32 (a wire of smaller diameter cannot be used!). The magnetic circuit must have a non-magnetic gap of 0.3 ... 0.5 mm. Choke inductance - 40±10 μH.
Capacitors C6-C24 should have a small dielectric loss tangent, and C6-C17 should also have an operating voltage of at least 1000 V. The best capacitors I have tested are K78-2, used in TVs. You can also use more widely used capacitors of this type of a different capacity, bringing the total capacitance to that indicated in the diagram, as well as imported film ones.
Attempts to use paper or other capacitors designed for operation in low-frequency circuits, as a rule, lead to their failure after a while.
Trinistors KU221 (VS2-VS7) are preferably used with the letter index A or B last resort B or D. As practice has shown, during the operation of the device, the cathode conclusions of the trinistors are noticeably heated, which is why the destruction of the rations on the board and even the failure of the trinistors is not excluded.
Reliability will be higher if either piston tubes made of tinned copper foil with a thickness of 0.1 ... along the entire length. The piston (bandage) should cover the entire length of the lead almost to the base. It is necessary to solder quickly so as not to overheat the trinistor.
You will probably have a question: is it possible to install one powerful one instead of several relatively low-power trinistors? Yes, this is possible when using a device that is superior (or at least comparable) in its frequency characteristics to the KU221A trinistors. But among those available, for example, from the PM or TL series, there are none.
The transition to low-frequency devices will force the operating frequency to be lowered from 25 to 4 ... 6 kHz, and this will lead to a deterioration in many of the most important characteristics of the device and a loud shrill squeak during welding.
When mounting diodes and trinistors, the use of heat-conducting paste is mandatory.
In addition, it has been found that one powerful trinistor is less reliable than several connected in parallel, since it is easier for them to provide Better conditions heat removal. It is enough to install a group of trinistors on one heat-removing plate with a thickness of at least 3 mm.
Since the current equalizing resistors R14-R18 (C5-16 V) can get very hot during welding, they must be freed from the plastic shell before installation by firing or heating with a current, the value of which must be selected experimentally.
Diodes VD8 and VD9 are installed on a common heat sink with trinistors, and the VD9 diode is isolated from the heat sink with a mica gasket. Instead of KD213A, KD213B and KD213V, as well as KD2999B, KD2997A, KD2997B are suitable.
Inductor L2 is a frameless spiral of 11 turns of wire with a cross section of at least 4 mm2 in heat-resistant insulation, wound on a mandrel with a diameter of 12...14 mm.
The throttle during welding is very hot, therefore, when winding the spiral, a gap of 1 ... 1.5 mm should be provided between the turns, and the throttle must be positioned so that it is in the air flow from the fan. 
Rice. 2 Transformer core
T1 is made up of three PK30x16 magnetic circuits made of 3000NMS-1 ferrite stacked together (they used horizontal transformers of old TVs).
The primary and secondary windings are divided into two sections each (see Fig. 2), wound with wire PSD1.68x10.4 in fiberglass insulation and connected in series according to. The primary winding contains 2x4 turns, the secondary - 2x2 turns.
Sections are wound on a specially made wooden mandrel. The sections are protected from unwinding by two bandages made of tinned copper wire with a diameter of 0.8 ... 1 mm. Bandage width - 10...11 mm. A strip of electric cardboard is placed under each bandage or several turns of fiberglass tape are wound.
After winding, the bandages are soldered.
One of the bandages of each section serves as the output of its beginning. To do this, the insulation under the bandage is performed so that with inside it was in direct contact with the beginning of the section winding. After winding, the bandage is soldered to the beginning of the section, for which the insulation is removed from this section of the coil in advance and it is tinned.
It should be borne in mind that winding I operates in the most severe thermal conditions. For this reason, when winding its sections and during assembly, it is necessary to provide air gaps between the outer parts of the turns by inserting between the turns short, lubricated with heat-resistant glue, fiberglass inserts.
In general, when making transformers for inverter welding with your own hands, always leave air gaps in the winding. The more of them, the more efficient the removal of heat from the transformer and the lower the probability of burning the device.
It is also appropriate to note here that winding sections made with the mentioned inserts and gaskets with wire of the same section 1.68x10.4 mm 2 without insulation will be cooled better under the same conditions.
The bandages in contact are connected by soldering, and it is advisable to solder a copper pad in the form of a short piece of wire from which the section is made to the front ones, which serve as the leads of the sections.
The result is a rigid one-piece primary winding of the transformer.
The secondary is made in the same way. The difference is only in the number of turns in the sections and that it is necessary to provide for the output from middle point. The windings are installed on the magnetic circuit in a strictly defined way - this is necessary for correct operation rectifier VD11 - VD32.
The winding direction of the upper winding section I (when looking at the transformer from above) must be counterclockwise, starting from the upper terminal, which must be connected to the L2 choke.
The winding direction of the upper winding section II, on the contrary, is clockwise, starting from the upper output, it is connected to the VD21-VD32 diode block.
Winding III is a coil of any wire with a diameter of 0.35 ... 0.5 mm in heat-resistant insulation that can withstand a voltage of at least 500 V. It can be placed last in any place of the magnetic circuit from the side of the primary winding.
To ensure the electrical safety of the welding machine and effective cooling of all elements of the transformer with air flow, it is very important to maintain the necessary gaps between the windings and the magnetic circuit. When assembling a do-it-yourself welding inverter, most do-it-yourselfers make the same mistake: they underestimate the importance of cooling the trance. This cannot be done.
This task is performed by four fixing plates placed in the windings when final assembly node. 
The plates are made of fiberglass with a thickness of 1.5 mm in accordance with the drawing in the figure.
After the final adjustment of the plate, it is advisable to fix it with heat-resistant glue. The transformer is attached to the base of the apparatus with three brackets bent from brass or copper wire with a diameter of 3 mm. The same brackets fix the mutual position of all elements of the magnetic circuit.
Before mounting the transformer on the base, between the halves of each of the three sets of the magnetic circuit, it is necessary to insert non-magnetic gaskets made of electric cardboard, getinaks or textolite with a thickness of 0.2 ... 0.3 mm.
For the manufacture of a transformer, you can use magnetic cores and other sizes with a cross section of at least 5.6 cm 2. Suitable, for example, W20x28 or two sets of W 16x20 from ferrite 2000NM1.
Winding I for the armored magnetic circuit is made in the form of a single section of eight turns, winding II - similarly to that described above, from two sections of two turns. The welding rectifier on diodes VD11-VD34 is structurally a separate unit, made in the form of a bookcase: 
It is assembled in such a way that each pair of diodes is placed between two heat-removing plates 44x42 mm in size and 1 mm thick, made of aluminum alloy sheet.
The whole package is pulled together by four steel threaded studs with a diameter of 3 mm between two flanges 2 mm thick (of the same material as the plates), to which two boards are screwed on both sides, forming the rectifier leads.
All diodes in the block are oriented in the same way - with the cathode leads to the right according to the figure - and the leads are soldered into the holes of the board, which serves as a common positive lead of the rectifier and the device as a whole. The anode terminals of the diodes are soldered into the holes of the second board. Two groups of conclusions are formed on it, connected to the extreme conclusions of the winding II of the transformer according to the scheme.
Given the large total current flowing through the rectifier, each of its three leads is made of several pieces of wire 50 mm long, each soldered into its own hole and connected by soldering at the opposite end. A group of ten diodes is connected in five segments, of fourteen - in six, the second board with a common point of all diodes - in six.
It is better to use a flexible wire, with a cross section of at least 4 mm.
In the same way, high-current group outputs from the main printed circuit board of the device are made.
The rectifier boards are made of foil fiberglass 0.5 mm thick and tinned. Four narrow slots in each board help to reduce the stress on the diode leads during thermal deformations. For the same purpose, the diode leads must be molded as shown in the figure above.
In the welding rectifier, you can also use more powerful diodes KD2999B, 2D2999B, KD2997A, KD2997B, 2D2997A, 2D2997B. Their number may be less. So, in one of the variants of the apparatus, a rectifier of nine 2D2997A diodes successfully worked (five in one arm, four in the other).
The area of the heat sink plates remained the same, it was possible to increase their thickness up to 2 mm. The diodes were placed not in pairs, but one in each compartment.
All resistors (except R1 and R6), capacitors C2-C4, C6-C18, transistor VT1, trinistors VS2 - VS7, zener diodes VD5-VD7, diodes VD8-VD10 are mounted on the main printed circuit board, and SCRs and diodes VD8, VD9 are installed on a heat sink screwed to a board made of foil textolite 1.5 mm thick: 
Rice. 5. Board drawing
The scale of the board drawing is 1:2, however, the board is easy to mark, even without using photo enlargement tools, since the centers of almost all holes and the borders of almost all foil areas are located on a grid with a 2.5 mm step.
The board does not require great accuracy in marking and drilling holes, however, it should be remembered that the holes in it must match the corresponding holes in the heat sink plate.
The jumper in the circuit of diodes VD8, VD9 is made of copper wire with a diameter of 0.8 ... 1 mm. It is better to solder it from the printing side. The second jumper from the PEV-2 0.3 wire can also be placed on the side of the parts.
The group output of the board, indicated in fig. 5 letters B, connected to the throttle L2. Conductors from the anodes of the trinistors are soldered into the holes of group B. The conclusions G are connected to the bottom terminal of the transformer T1 according to the diagram, and D - to the inductor L1.
The pieces of wire in each group must be of the same length and the same cross section (at least 2.5 mm2). 
Rice. 6 heat sink
The heat sink is a 3 mm thick plate with a bent edge (see Fig. 6).
The best heat sink material is copper (or brass). In extreme cases, in the absence of copper, an aluminum alloy plate can be used.
The surface on the installation side of the parts must be flat, without nicks and dents. Threaded holes are drilled in the plate for assembly with printed circuit board and fastening elements. Leads of parts and connecting wires are passed through holes without thread. The anode leads of the trinistors are passed through the holes in the bent edge. The three M4 holes in the heatsink are for electrical connection with printed circuit board. Three brass screws with brass nuts were used for this. Fig. 1. 8. Placement of knots
The unijunction transistor VT1 usually does not cause problems, however, in the presence of generation, some instances do not provide the pulse amplitude necessary for the stable opening of the trinistor VS2.
All components and parts of the welding machine are installed on a base plate made of getinaks 4 mm thick (textolite 4 ... 5 mm thick is also suitable) on one side of it. A round window is cut in the center of the base for mounting the fan; it is installed on the same side.
Diodes VD1-VD4, trinistor VS1 and lamp HL1 are mounted on angle brackets. When installing the T1 transformer between adjacent magnetic circuits, an air gap of 2 mm should be provided. Each of the clamps for connecting welding cables is a M10 copper bolt with copper nuts and washers.
From the inside, a copper square is pressed against the base by the head of the bolt, additionally fixed from turning with an M4 screw with a nut. The thickness of the square shelf is 3 mm. An internal connecting wire is connected to the second shelf with a bolt or soldering.
The printed circuit board-heat sink assembly is installed with parts to the base on six steel racks bent from a strip 12 wide and 2 mm thick.
The handle of the toggle switch SA1, the fuse holder cover, the LEDs HL2, HL3, the handle of the variable resistor R1, the clamps for welding cables and the cable to the SB1 button are displayed on the front side of the base.
In addition, to front side four stand-sleeves with a diameter of 12 mm are attached with internal thread M5, machined from textolite. A false panel is attached to the racks with holes for the controls of the apparatus and protective grille fan.
The false panel can be made from sheet metal or dielectric with a thickness of 1 ... 1.5 mm. I cut it out of fiberglass. Outside, six racks with a diameter of 10 mm are screwed to the false panel, on which network and welding cables are wound after welding is completed.
Holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled in the free areas of the false panel to facilitate the circulation of cooling air. 
Rice. 9. Appearance inverter welding machine with cables laid.
The assembled base is placed in a casing with a lid made of sheet textolite (you can use getinaks, fiberglass, vinyl plastic) 3 ... 4 mm thick. Cooling air outlets are located on the side walls.
The shape of the holes does not matter, but for safety it is better if they are narrow and long.
The total area of the outlet holes should not be less than the area of the inlet. The casing is equipped with a handle and a shoulder strap for carrying.
The electrode holder can be of any design, as long as it provides convenience and easy replacement of the electrode.
On the handle of the electrode holder, you need to mount the button (SB1 according to the diagram) in such a place that the welder can easily hold it pressed even with a hand in a mitten. Since the button is under mains voltage, it is necessary to ensure reliable insulation both the button itself and the cable connected to it.
P.S. The description of the assembly process took up a lot of space, but in fact everything is much simpler than it seems. Anyone who has ever held a soldering iron and a multimeter in their hands will be able to assemble this welding inverter with their own hands without any problems. 
