Pouring the floor in the basement. Floor in the basement. Waterproofing the pit, drainage, pouring the floor and erecting walls, waterproofing the basement and floor, insulation How to make a concrete floor in the basement

A high-quality floor in a cellar or basement is necessary, because it provides a reliable basis for shelves and can also protect the cellar from excess moisture.

Alternatively, you can make a simple cement-sand screed– it can become the basis for flooring (for example, planks) or be used as a full-fledged floor. The cost of such coverage is low, and it is not difficult to arrange.
Initially, decide what thickness the screed will be. There is no point in installing a thick coating here (the load on the floor in the basement is usually not very large), but something too thin will not work either. To prevent the cement-sand base from cracking, make it at least 4 cm thick.

How to prepare the base for a screed in the basement

The screed structure in the basement is almost the same as in any other room, the only addition is waterproofing. This is especially important if the groundwater in the area is high.

Carefully level the soil base. At the same time, we clear it of stones, etc.

We compact the earthen floor as best as possible.

We arrange waterproofing using roofing felt. You can get by with thicker plastic film, but it is still advisable to lay it in 2 layers. Film is a cheaper option, but roofing felt is more reliable, since while pouring the floor you will have to step on the waterproofing, and it may tear. But in the screed itself, 2 layers of film behave no worse than roofing felt.

We cover the earthen base with waterproofing material so that it extends slightly onto the walls. In this case, it will be possible to avoid seams between the walls and the floor. We lay the waterproofing sheets with an overlap and fasten them together. If you used roofing felt, then do this bitumen mastic, and in cases with film, you need to use tape.

On top of the waterproofing we arrange a leveling cushion of crushed stone/gravel and sand.

If significant loads are expected on the basement floor, the screed should be reinforced with metal mesh.

A particularly reliable option for a waterproofing layer for a basement: we lay a leveling layer of medium-sized crushed stone on a compacted earthen base and fill it with molten bitumen.

Using a level, we determine the height of the screed and make marks on the basement walls.

We install beacons (guides) that will serve as a guide when pouring the screed. It can be metal profiles or wooden slats.

Filling the screed in the basement

Coming main stage work - pouring screed. see here. When pouring the cement-sand mixture, make sure everything is level; this will be easy if the guides are level.

In this way we fill the entire floor, and the next day we carefully pull out the beacons/guides, and seal the places where they were located with mortar.

After a week or two, this floor is ready for use. It is advisable to keep the doors to the basement open during this time.

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Construction Materials

Peter Kravets

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The underground area, as a rule, is not very large, so owners are wondering how to make a floor in the basement of a house so that it takes up minimal space.

This is especially critical when making a floor in the basement of a garage, where in a limited small space it is necessary to place equipment for the car, conservation, and tools. The simplest and optimal solution in this case would be a concrete floor in the basement.

Features of basements

A basement in a house with an underground area is planned before the construction of the building begins. If the construction is done on dry soil, then the ground floor is made two or even four times lower, which is for soil with high humidity due to high groundwater. The construction method is chosen based on the parameters of the land on the site.

If the construction of a basement and a cellar is carried out simultaneously, then it is better to choose a strip foundation arrangement, which will provide a number of advantages for the basement: strong walls that protect from cold and wind, dividing the basement space into zones for their various uses, similar to dividing the upper floors of a house into rooms.

If the floor in the basement is made on joists, then you need to take care in advance about greater depth in the ground. The difference reaches 30 centimeters compared to an earthen floor.

While protecting the room from moisture, the floor of the basement must also withstand the loads exerted by pressing soil. Therefore, all floors in the basement of a private house with old structures are additionally reinforced with walls in the form of supports at a distance of 3-4

Types of floors in the basement

The construction of the floor in the basement can be done on joists, from concrete, on a monolithic slab or on the ground. The last option is the most reliable, since it is installed during construction and laying the foundation. If the house is built on a monolithic slab with insulation, then the floor will be especially durable and warm due to its placement on the top of the slab. A warm basement will be provided by a warm floor above the basement.

Coating with concrete mortar is done when the soil on the site is wet and saturated with groundwater, which is dangerous for the basement. Arranging the basement floor also provides additional protection from moisture, which is why experts recommend making houses of this type.

Concrete mixtures are poured onto the ground or onto a multi-layer cake - sand and gravel mixture for protection against moisture. This design can reliably protect floors in the basement over the ground when it is very heaving - wet clay or loam.

Floors on joists are made in those buildings where there is no threat of flooding or where high-quality drainage system. Wooden floors They also do it in garages, but only if there is a deep basement.

Flooring on the ground is especially important in pressing issues of saving space and construction costs. If the soil at the construction site is subsident, then a reinforced floor screed in the basement is needed to keep the soil from shifting.

Installing a concrete floor in the basement

Tools and materials

For large quantities of concrete, a concrete mixer is required. You can also knead by hand, casting the floor in sections. In a small area this is quite acceptable, although labor-intensive;
Shovels – shovel and bayonet;
Tanks for mixing and transporting concrete mixture;
Tools for leveling the mortar to be laid - grater, trowel. The floors need to be sanded if linoleum is to be laid further. If the flooring is provided with lags, then leveling can be omitted;
Grinder with discs for stone or concrete;
Dry cement, grade M400, sand and crushed stone of medium grain, water.

Stages of pouring a concrete floor in the basement

How to fill a basement floor with concrete with your own hands:

The bottom of the pit is leveled with a hydraulic level, all soil is compacted either manually or with a vibrating plate;
They make a base of 10-15 centimeters of sand, which also needs to be thoroughly compacted, after moistening it;
Gravel or crushed stone is poured onto the sand and compacted;
Layers of waterproofing are laid, for which roofing felt or polyethylene is used. All canvases are laid out overlapping each other by 15 cm. When laying on walls, it is also necessary to overlap by 20-30 centimeters. In the corners, all layers are aligned, giving shape right angle, fixed with a construction stapler;
Lay thermal insulation, avoiding the use of glass wool, stone wool or other types of wool. They are too moisture permeable, which will result in the accumulation of dampness in the insulation and the gradual loss of its heat-insulating properties;
They use foam with a density of C25 and a layer thickness of 5 centimeters. All sheets are laid out as adjusted to each other, the seams and joints are sealed with sealant or polyurethane foam;
Carefully inspect the joints between the foam and the basement walls. They don't use it there polyurethane foam, but leave a seam for possible deformation of the soil during teaching. Two centimeters will be enough.

Sequence of work

If the basement floor will be subject to increased loads, as in a gym or from placed equipment, it is necessary to make reinforcement of at least 10 centimeters. If the movement is small, then you can limit yourself to a concrete layer of 5 centimeters without reinforcement;
For the reinforcing belt, make a mesh of 5-6 mm reinforcement, tying the rods together with wire or welding, which is less desirable;
Cooking cement-sand mortar from 3 parts of sand, pre-sifted, and part of cement. Everything is thoroughly mixed dry and filled with water. You can add small fractions of stones, but not more than 15% of the total amount of solution. The resulting mixture is poured onto the floor in buckets or other containers, and a screed is made in the basement;
The layers are poured gradually, leveling the solution along the entire perimeter of the floor. It is necessary to install beacons so that the height is the same over the entire surface. It is also necessary to periodically pierce the poured solution with a pin during the concreting process to remove air and voids;
As soon as the concrete hardens, it is methodically ground, but first, expansion joints are made with a grinder or disc. The distance between the seams must be at least 6 meters to prevent cracks from appearing on the concrete surface.

Technology for installing floors on the ground in the basement

The advantage of flooring on the ground is its waterproofing characteristics and thermal conductivity. If all the work is done correctly, then such a floor will serve for a long time without need. repair work. The surface is leveled, just like concrete pouring. From necessary tools You will need shovels, buckets, gravel or crushed stone of medium fraction, sand, clay and a vibrating plate or garden roller.

Stages of work on installing a floor on the ground:

The bottom of the pit is compacted and compacted, leveling with a building level;
Crushed stone and clay are mixed and laid out in a 15-centimeter layer, followed by compaction;
You can supplement the layer with expanded clay or slag, which will contribute to better thermal insulation;
To increase the strength of the floor, it is necessary to make a cement-sand mortar, repeating the pouring after the first layer has dried;
In order for the layers in the floor structure to be dense, they are made as thin as possible. This is how the filling is done to the desired height;
Final upper layer coated with liquid clay mortar, and all voids and cracks are sealed with it;
The finishing coating can be linoleum or tile.

Basement floor on joists

If you are making floor joists in the basement, then you need to choose quality wood and provide good waterproofing. For such purposes, timber 15 by 15 or 10 by 10 is suitable - logs will be made from it. And the base of the floor will be made from edged boards 40-50 millimeters thick.

Sequence of work

All wooden parts treated with antiseptics, paying attention to the side surfaces and ends;
The boards are cut into pieces of the required length, taking into account that their total length should be no more than the length of the room minus a couple of centimeters;
In the process of laying the boards, make a gap of 1.5-2 centimeters to the walls of the base. It is necessary that the patterns on the boards be facing in different directions, then the floor will be more even and durable;
In places where the logs will be located, roofing felt is laid in several layers. The distance between the lags should not exceed three meters, although it is usually calculated based on the size of the board;
All boards are secured with nails no less than 7 centimeters long, they are driven in at a slight slope. If the boards have grooves for installation, then their installation is simplified and resembles a construction set.

Conclusion

The arrangement of floors in the basement is approximately the same as in cellars. The difference will be high humidity cellars due to greater depth. In such cases, not only waterproofing of the floor is done, but also the walls.

Often in private one-story construction The layout of the house is carried out in such a way that it has a ground floor with a basement. This is a very attractive option, as it allows one-story house create additional premises. In the basement you can place a garage, which half or one third will be underground, a gym or other premises. You can even arrange a winter garden in the basement. But there is an opportunity to further increase the usable area of the ground floor by making it a basement or cellar. But since these rooms will be located quite deep underground, it is necessary to properly waterproof and concreting.

In order to be in the basement you will need following materials: cement, sand, crushed stone, water.

Correctly pouring the basement floor will help avoid problems with dampness and groundwater seepage.

Ground floor

The basement floor, or, more simply, the basement, is the part of the building that lies directly on the foundation. The base, like the foundation, experiences heavy loads, so it is built from high-quality and durable materials. The construction of a basement floor makes it possible to significantly increase the usable area of the house. It not only contains utility rooms, but also garages, billiard rooms, gyms and even winter gardens. It all depends on the imagination of the owners.

Ground floor plan diagram.

In relation to the wall of the building, the base can be protruding, sinking, or located in the same plane with the wall. When constructing a basement, the foundation of the building can be either below ground level or above it. The usual parameters for raising or deepening the foundation are 10-15 cm. A sunken basement floor looks very stylish and modern. In addition, the sinking base helps water drain from the walls during heavy rains. A protruding plinth is usually made when they want to insulate a basement, since such a plinth is thicker than the wall that is being built on it.

As already mentioned, the base is built from durable material. Often the basement is built from pre-fabricated concrete blocks, fitting them and carefully sealing the seams.

IN Lately When constructing a basement, the monolithic construction method is increasingly being used. Formwork is installed on the foundation of the future building and filled with concrete. Rods are placed inside the formwork as a frame metal fittings. Sometimes - with a large width of the basement floor - they are used as internal formwork. brickwork. This monolithic plinth with an internal frame is very durable and can last for many years. After removing the formwork, the base is made of monolithic concrete looks smooth and aesthetic and requires only the bare minimum finishing works. Usually it is covered with cement laitance, and it no longer needs any additional finishing.

If there are windows in the base, then a so-called pit is dug in front of each window - a special well where the window will go out. It is necessary if most of The windows are located below ground level. The pit is located at a distance of half a meter from the glass. Its walls are lined with bricks or concreted, and the top of the pit is covered with a decorative lattice for safety reasons.

Sometimes a house is built so that the ground floor protrudes far beyond the walls of the house, and a open terrace. In this case, proper and high-quality waterproofing of the basement floor is very important. It should be noted that waterproofing must be carried out in any case, because... the base is in direct contact with the ground and is exposed to moisture. By the way, a plinth made of monolithic concrete protects the basement floor more reliably from moisture than a plinth made of another material. It is best to use waterproofing that is based on fiberglass. These are hydroisol and glass insulation. Sometimes waterproofing is made from liquid rubber. This is the so-called liquid waterproofing. They also use modern materials such as geotextiles and foam glass.

Concreting the basement floor

The device diagram provided.

If concrete is poured on the ground, the following steps are followed:

A cushion of gravel and sand (first sand, then gravel) 10-15 cm thick is poured in and thoroughly compacted.
A thick one spreads on the pillow polyethylene film and sprinkled with so-called “thin” concrete.
Thermal insulation is placed on the film. These can be slabs from any thermal insulation material 5 cm thick.
We must not forget about the gap that should be left between the wall and the floor. This is the so-called expansion, or thermal, gap 1-1.5 cm wide. The same gap is made around the supports, if there are any in the basement.
It is made with a concrete solution 5 cm thick. If you plan to make a gym in the basement where barbells will be used, the concrete needs to be reinforced and the layer made thicker - up to 10 cm. The reinforcement is made with a metal mesh 3 mm thick. Pouring is done onto the laid mesh.
After concreting, it is recommended to make expansion joints - grooves cut diamond blades. The distance between them can be from 4 to 6 m. This measure prevents cracks from appearing on the concrete floor screed during operation.
The finished concrete floor is processed grinder, and the floor covering is laid on it. In the case of a gym, it is recommended to install thick rubber mats. If you plan to make a cellar in the basement, then no additional floor covering is required.

It should be taken into account that concrete gains its full strength within 20-22 days.

The floor in the basement in combination with waterproofing and wall insulation will create comfortable room, which you can use at your discretion. Of course, in the case of a cellar, insulation of the walls is not required.

Whatever room you plan to make in the basement of your house, you should not forget about ventilation and good lighting. Properly equipped ventilation will completely relieve you of the feeling of dampness and stale air. The basement floor should also be equipped with high-quality ventilation. In this case, it turns into a full-fledged comfortable living space. As mentioned above, a basement floor can greatly increase the usable area of your home. Its arrangement will eliminate the need to build a second floor of the house, which is associated with significant material costs.

By installing a cellar under the ground floor, you will become the owner of a fairly spacious room in which you can store food. Less than a hundred years ago, people managed without refrigerators, having only a cellar at their disposal. The cellar served as both a refrigerator and a pantry. It was in the cellar that all supplies were stored, since the temperature in this room was low at any time of the year. And you, too, can store an unlimited amount of supplies in the cellar if you properly equip it with shelves and racks. The shelving in the cellar should be strong enough and spacious. In the cellar you can also install plastic or metal containers for storing grain, cereals, sugar and other products. This will significantly save space in the kitchen of your home.

Tools and materials

To pour a basement floor with your own hands, you will need the same tools as for doing any work with concrete:

container for preparing the solution;
shovels;
buckets;
construction trowel and grater;
Sander;
grinder with diamond discs.

Materials:

cement (in the case of the M400 brand gym);
sand;
crushed stone;
water.

In the absence of a concrete mixer, you can prepare the solution in a large metal trough or on a sheet of iron, pour it using buckets, and level it with a construction trowel and trowel. If you want to lay linoleum, after the concrete has completely hardened, the floor must be sanded, but if you plan to make the floor wooden, then sanding is not required.

Many people do not do any floor covering at all in the underground floor of a private house. The soil is leveled, slightly compacted and this is where the device ends.

This is a very cheap and simple option for the basement and underground, but it has many disadvantages, sometimes significant.

Probable and guaranteed problems with a dirt floor in an underground room:

Dampness. Even in relatively dry soil there is enough moisture for fungus to begin to develop in the room.
Possibility of flooding. High level groundwater can cause the formation of puddles at the bottom of the room. During a flood, it is even possible that the basement will be completely flooded; water will come from inside the ground. In this case, the installation of the floor is a means of protection against complete destruction of the house.
Small animals. Ground frogs, worms, spiders and a wide variety of bugs can enter a room through a dirt floor.
Dirty shoes and items located in the basement.

To avoid all this, it is enough to make a not very thick concrete basement floor, which can then be covered from the inside with tiles, linoleum or self-leveling coatings.

Features of the basement

When selecting materials and designing, you need to take into account important differences between the basement and the floor in it.

Firstly, high humidity.

Even in the basement of a private house, well protected from dampness, with high-quality waterproofing and ventilation, the humidity is significantly higher than on the first floor.

It is also impossible to exclude the penetration of moisture from inside the soil from below, so the arrangement of the floor in the basement must be combined with high-quality protection from water.

Secondly, low temperature changes. The immersion of the room in the ground protects it from sharp daily and annual fluctuations. A small number of windows also contributes to this.

Thirdly, low strength requirements.

The concrete floor lies on top of a regular dirt floor; if properly installed, there will be no voids underneath, unlike the floor on the first or any other floor.

Therefore, it immediately transfers all the load to the substrate, without being subjected to great stretching and bending efforts.

An exception is buildings in areas where the soil under the house may freeze or periodically swell from moisture.

It is also impossible not to mention that the floor in the basement often does not need beautiful design, so it can be done without additional coating.

Materials

There are several options for arranging a basement floor, but they all involve cement concrete.

Therefore, you will definitely have to purchase cement and sand, which are included in the solution, or buy ready-mixed concrete.

A large filler - crushed stone, granot sieving, gravel - will significantly reduce the cost of the structure. The ideal filler would be granite, basalt or other durable and moisture-resistant materials.

It is permissible to make the filler from expanded clay. It is less durable, but lightweight, which will make the pouring process a little easier. You should not add materials based on limestone or gypsum, which lose their strength due to moisture and even slowly dissolve. Water can destroy such concrete from the inside.

If you need to increase the thermal insulation of the room, then the floor can be poured with homemade foam concrete, for which crumbs of expanded polystyrene are added to its composition.

If you add slag to the composition as a filler, you should keep in mind that this material increases the radiation level in the room. You can remove it from inside the basement by intensive ventilation.

To protect against groundwater or normal dampness, you will need to waterproof the basement floor. It can be covered with roofing felt, filled with bitumen, or covered with other materials.

It is best if the waterproofing protects the floor from the underside, but sometimes it is necessary to additionally treat the surface from the inside of the room.

It is desirable that the composition coating waterproofing did not include volatile toxic solvents, because you will have to work in a confined space with poor ventilation. Water-based mastics are best.

It is necessary to provide an additional volume of sand to level the bottom and form a sand cushion. Although in this case this element is not mandatory, it simply makes further work easier.

It is also not necessary to lay the reinforcement cage.

Its installation is only necessary if the soil under the house is unreliable and mobile, if there is a possibility of subsidence.

If the base is reliable, then the metal will only be superfluous.

It will increase the cost of the project, and may shorten the service life of the concrete screed, since steel is subject to increased dampness will oxidize intensively, rust increases in volume and tears the concrete from the inside. Especially if acids are present in the soil water.

It is best to store materials on the ground floor, so that it is nearby but not in the way below.

Carrying out work

Having made calculations and purchased materials, you can begin installing the floor. First, you should prepare the area - remove all excess, clean the floor, remove loose soil and level it. Then a sand cushion is poured, which is also thoroughly leveled and compacted with a vibrating plate.

To the prepared flat surface waterproofing material is placed.

If these are rolls, then they should be rolled out overlapping each other and the walls of the house.

The joints must be coated. Bitumen can simply be poured and spread over the entire surface, creating a continuous layer. Don't make it too liquid, otherwise it will soak into the sand. Many materials require time to cool or dry. When the waterproofing is ready, you can begin installing the reinforcing mesh.

If it is not required, then the next step is to install “beacons”. They can be made from corners, channels, pipes.

Then you need to pour the concrete. It is advisable to complete the concreting of the basement in one day in order to obtain a durable and beautiful monolith. When pouring concrete, it must be compacted by vibration to remove air bubbles from inside it and so that it thoroughly fills all the cracks.

For additional protection from groundwater, you can additionally treat the surface with penetrating solutions.

You should also Special attention pay attention to the junction of the walls and floor of the house.

There may be a gap here that will also need to be sealed. waterproofing materials. For example, penecrit.

Concrete gains strength in about a month; you can speed up the process by adding special activators to the composition. After this, it can be dried and, if desired, finished with tiles or other materials.

Expenses

The cost of installing a concrete floor in the basement and underground is relatively small if you do not use expensive finishing materials.

Key costs will include:

concrete M100 - 2000-2500 rubles per cubic meter;
sand - 700-1000 rubles per cubic meter;
bitumen - 700-900 rubles per bag (40 kg);
penecrit - 250-300 rubles per kilogram.

The exact amount depends on the size of the basement of a private house and the features of the project.

In most cases, in private houses the basement has a rather small area, so the owners try by hook or by crook to make sure that there is as much free space as possible. For example, the issue of room dimensions (in particular, its height) is quite acute if the basement is used as a garage. But even in an ordinary vegetable cellar, you want to be able to straighten up in full height. That is why many country homeowners are wondering how to make the floor as low as possible. Some people solve the problem radically - they simply leave the floor in the basement of the house as it was after digging the pit, that is, dirt.

If the building is located on a relatively elevated site with good drainage, there should not be any problems. On the other hand, if the soil under the house is quite wet and groundwater is close, then the construction work will be much more expensive.

When the house is still under construction, then, if possible, it is better to choose strip foundation. This approach will give certain advantages when arranging the basement: strong walls, initial zoning of space in accordance with living rooms etc.

Floor construction methods

The following materials can be used to construct a floor in the basement: concrete, soil, logs, monolithic slabs.

Using monolithic slab we can talk about maximum reliability of the floor. Of course, such a floor can only be made at the very early stages of building a house, that is, during laying the foundation. In addition, the basement floor will be comfortable and warm if you make it with the so-called “Swedish stove”. This technology involves laying insulation under the slab. If the building has a basement floor, then this option is also preferable. Concrete can be poured directly onto the ground, but it is best to compact sand and gravel first, making a kind of “pie” (pillow) from these materials. Such a pie increases the reliability of the structure, especially if there are loams and clay on the site.

Concrete floor in basement- the most common option.

Basement floors using logs are made in those houses where the likelihood of flooding from groundwater is minimal (or a high-quality drainage system has been installed). In addition, such a coating can be done in a garage that has a deep cellar.

Ground floors can also be relevant, but only in cases where it is absolutely necessary to save room height or money.

To pour a concrete floor in a basement, you will need the following tools:

Concrete mixer. If you don’t have one, you can mix the solution by hand, casting the floor in small squares. Despite the fact that such work takes a lot of effort, it can be done in the basement without any problems.
Trowel and grater. These tools will come in handy when you need to level cement mortar. In this case, concreting is of extremely high quality. In addition, the floor needs to be sanded if any flooring is planned in the future. flooring. If this flooring is made of wood, then additional leveling of the concrete floor is not required.
Grinder with stone discs.

When mixing the solution in a concrete mixer, use the ingredients in the proportions indicated on the bag of cement.

The stages of work are as follows:

The first step is to take building level and with its help the bottom of the pit is leveled, which in the future will become the basement floor. The soil must be compacted using any available tools.
Sand is poured into the bottom of the pit, which must be leveled and laid in an even layer of 10-20 cm. It is also compacted well, and periodically irrigated with water.
Medium-fraction crushed stone is poured onto the sand layer. The crushed stone cushion is also carefully compacted. The result is a kind of “pie” of sand and crushed stone, which will become the basis for creating a basement floor.
Then it’s time to create a layer of floor waterproofing. In most cases, traditional roofing felt or some other material is used for this. modern material in the form of a canvas. The roofing felt should be laid overlapping with the sheets overlapping each other by about 10 cm. In addition, they should overlap by about 25 cm.
Next comes the time of thermal insulation. To make a basement floor, thermal insulators based on stone or basalt wool or fiberglass are usually used. Materials of this type will efficiently absorb emerging moisture, thereby preventing flooding of the basement. Of course, mineral wool insulation quickly deteriorates, so it is recommended to use modern thermal insulators (for example, polyurethane foam).
You can also perform thermal insulation in the basement of a private house using high-density foam. The material should be laid as tightly as possible. All resulting gaps must be closed using mounting sealant.
Increased attention should be paid to the gaps that will be formed at the point of contact of the heat-insulating material with the walls of the basement. In these areas you should not use foam, leaving a special gap. It is necessary because in case of soil heaving, without it the heat-insulating layer and concrete screed may become deformed. As a rule, the gap width does not exceed a couple of centimeters.

After all stages of preparation, we proceed directly to pouring concrete mortar.

Concreting

If it is planned to install some heavy equipment in the basement (for example, machines for a workshop), then the floor must be additionally reinforced and made thicker (more than 10 cm). If there is no serious load on the floor in your basement, then a concrete mortar thickness of 5 cm will be sufficient. In this case, there will be no need to reinforce the base.

To create a reinforced belt, a mesh of reinforcement is made. The thickness of the reinforcing bars should be 5 mm. They are tied together with wire.

The cement mortar must be made in accordance with the proportions specified by the manufacturer. All elements of the future solution must be mixed in a concrete mixer. Water is gradually added to the solution until it reaches the required viscosity and plasticity.

Concreting the floor should occur in stages, but without interruptions. The solution must be leveled over the entire surface area. Before pouring concrete, it is best to install beacons that will clearly demonstrate the thickness of the concrete layer. The resulting “pie” of sand, gravel and concrete will successfully cope with the loads.

To ensure that the thickness of the concrete is the same everywhere, a special beacon profile is used.

Once the cement mortar has dried, it must be sanded concrete surface. But before this process, expansion joints must be made. Using a grinder with a special disk, the surface is cut so that there are several meters between the seams. This simple method helps prevent the concrete floor from cracking in the future.

Clay floor

Laying basement floors on the ground has one undeniable advantage over conventional concreting - the floors will be warmer. In addition, clay is a good waterproofing agent. If the entire process of installing a floor on the ground is carried out correctly, then such a surface can last for decades without requiring repairs or special maintenance.

The stages of work to create a floor on the ground are as follows:

Preparatory stage: the bottom of the pit is carefully leveled and compacted so that the base is as reliable as possible.
Crushed stone is mixed with clay, after which the mixture is poured into a layer of 10-20 cm. The mixture is thoroughly leveled and compacted.
Under the crushed stone layer, backfilling must be done using expanded clay or slag. These materials in this case will act as heat insulators.
To give the floor maximum strength, the first crushed stone layer is concreted with an additional layer of cement-sand mortar.
After the clay and crushed stone layer has dried, it is necessary to lay another similar layer, making a kind of cake from the materials.
The density of the floor on the ground in the basement of a private house will be maximum if the layers are made as thin as possible. Layers must be alternated until the required thickness is achieved.
As soon as the surface of crushed stone and clay is completely dry, the floor on the ground must be coated with liquid clay. If you find any cracks, they also need to be sealed with clay mortar.
For floors on the ground, the top coating can be ceramic tile, laminate and any other floor covering.

Laying the floor on joists

If you decide to make a floor in the basement of your private home wooden joists, then the first thing you need to do is choose suitable wood, and also think about the construction of the waterproofing layer in advance.

It's best to choose well dried timber who will become great solution for lag. The recommended size is 15/15. Edged boards small thickness (4-5 cm) will become the basis for the surface. Unlike floors on the ground, there is no need to lay many layers and make a “pie” in this case.

The stages of work are as follows:

The first thing to do is treat the wood with antiseptic compounds. Particular attention should be paid to the sides and end of the board.
The timber is sawn into pieces of the required length.
When laying boards, you should take into account the presence of a small gap of a few centimeters, which should be between the wall and the first board.
Where the lags are located, it is necessary to lay roofing material in several layers. There should not be a large distance between the lags (calculated in accordance with the length of the boards).
To secure the bars, long nails are used, which need to be driven in at a slight angle.
If you choose tongue-and-groove boards, then each next one must be mounted using a system of grooves.

In the event that you have chosen a structure on logs, provide in advance for deepening the earthen bottom of the pit, since the floor in the basement of the house will have a significant thickness. This recess must be at least 30 cm.

If the soil on your site is quite wet, then it is better not to choose the option of having the basement floor of a private house made from boards, because over time, despite the high quality of waterproofing, the boards will still gradually begin to rot.