What to do in the spring at the dacha. Where to start working on your dacha in the spring? My first harvest! What to do with your lawn in spring

If snow does not melt on the soil for a long period of time, and work on summer cottage do not tolerate delay, then we speed up the process - pour a thin layer of peat onto the snow. If time allows, we wait. The soil on which the snow has melted is well moistened. If you leave the snow cover near the trees, the process of gradual wetting is prolonged.. This way you can retain a significant amount of moisture for quite a long time.

As the snow melts, work in the garden in the spring can begin with cleaning up last year's leaves (if this was not done in the fall). It can be burned or composted. Then remove the insulating film from the grapes, ornamental plants, open the strawberries. Special attention We pay attention to the soil of the site: if necessary, then we remove excess moisture and loosen it.

After this, the top layer of soil should be mulched, that is, sprinkled with organic or inorganic material. The first is hay, nut shells, sawdust, humus, pine needles. The second is gravel, pebbles, and various covering materials. Mulching helps conserve water and loose soil, prevents soil erosion, reduces the number of weeds and promotes the formation of adventitious roots.

Spraying and whitewashing - don't forget about the trees

All work in the garden must be done before the buds begin to swell. First of all, this applies to pruning shrubs, fruit trees and grapes. Early pruning reduces the negative consequences possible from shortening. It is also important to get rid of dry branches damaged by frost or disease and cut out excess growth.

If you decide to carry out, remove no more than a third of the branches in one year.

If the autumn whitewashing of trees was not carried out for some reason, then this must be done. Whitewash, which contains chalk and lime, protects the tree well from flightless insect pests that overwinter in the bark or fallen leaves. It is imperative to do the first spraying of trees and grapes before the buds open - many insects lay their eggs in the buds or buds.

Spring work in the garden – March-May

At the end of April - beginning of March everything fruit trees it is necessary to open and dig up the soil in a circle, only carefully so as not to damage their roots. This is done as if to destroy possible pests and infections, and to improve soil quality. Also during this period, it is advisable to dig up the soil throughout the area and add mineral fertilizers or ash to it. Then use a rake to level the ground. When warm and sunny weather arrives, you can sow early crops: seeds of carrots, cucumbers, melons and others. Due to the fact that in May there are sometimes frosts, both on the soil and in the air, it is necessary to carefully monitor changes in atmospheric temperatures. On frosty days, in extreme cases, in your summer cottage you can light smoke fires to prevent the flowers of fruit trees from freezing. On cool nights, seedlings should be covered with plastic or thick paper.

We have prepared brief instructions on spring work in the garden and several “cheat sheets” with brief general information about plant life.

Early spring is the time to prepare beds, sow and care for seedlings. And since we are taking plants into our care for the coming weeks and months, it won’t hurt to refresh our heads with a brief general understanding of their lives.

The main thing

Photo: AiF/ N. Belyavskaya

Greenhouse preparation

As soon as the weather permits, the soil in the greenhouse should be dug up using a shovel. At the same time, fertilizers are applied: to the future cucumber bed - 5-6 kg of humus, 50 g of nitroammophoska or other complex fertilizer and 300 g of ash per 1 m 2. Where tomatoes, peppers and eggplants will grow, the dose of humus should be halved.

Warm beds

If you plan to make warm beds in the greenhouse for early sowing or planting, then you need to remove part of the soil (10-15 cm) and add biofuel in a 20-30 cm layer into grooves 40 cm wide. Then pour 15-20 cm of fertile soil on top. Make ridges and cover them with film to speed up heating and reduce heat loss.

Film greenhouse

You need to stretch the new film over the greenhouses in such a way that by the end of April you can sow cold-resistant, early-ripening vegetables in it.

The first step is to prepare the frame. If necessary, it is repaired and painted White color, since the film ages faster on a dark surface. Sharp corners and it is better to wrap the protruding parts of the frame with strips of old film or non-woven fabric.

Film for greenhouses can be combined into a single sheet the right size soldering iron or iron through tracing paper or paper (melting temperature of the film is 120-140 °C). This way it will be easier to cover the greenhouse - in calm weather, the panel is thrown over the frame and the edges are attached to the bottom of the structure.

Photo: AiF/T.Zavyalova

Seeds

When purchasing seed material, choose varieties recommended for your area - they are better adapted to the local climate and are more reliable. How do you know that a particular variety is zoned, since this information is usually not indicated on seed packets? Buyers have to trust sellers and specialized literature.

Clarifications from the editors

A zoned variety is a variety included in the current “Register of Breeding Achievements” Russian Federation"and recommended for cultivation in one or several regions (it is in them that it has already successfully passed state tests).

Those with Internet access can find out whether a variety has been zoned or not by going to the official resource of the “State Commission of the Russian Federation for Testing and Protection of Breeding Achievements”: gossort.com. We find the “Register” section there and find ourselves in the “State Register of Selection Achievements Approved for Use.” We select the crop we need (for example, we took zucchini) and open the corresponding plate with varieties.

It may seem complicated, but we only need three adjacent columns - the name of the variety, its “year of birth” and recommended cultivation regions, indicated by numbers from 1 to 12.

Residents of the Bryansk, Vladimir, Ivanovo, Kaluga, Moscow, Ryazan, Smolensk and Tula regions belong to the Central region. In the register, it is always designated by the number 3. The gardens of summer residents of the Vologda, Kaliningrad, Kostroma, Leningrad, Novgorod, Pskov, Tver and Yaroslavl regions are located in the North-Western region, which is marked by the number 2.

If the number of your region is indicated next to the variety, it means it is zoned there. For example, our table recommends Apollo, Astoria and Aeronaut zucchini for the Moscow region, and Arlika and Aeronaut for the Leningrad region.

How many seeds do you need?

You can follow the seeding norms. For the final calculation, you need to know the approximate area of ​​the beds.

"Repeaters"

Last year's seeds should not be used without checking germination. This is done like this: you need to take 10-100 seeds of each type of vegetable, spread them in an even layer between sheets of paper napkins, place them on a plate and moisten them well. The temperature should always be around 20 °C, and the napkin should be damp all the time. After seed germination, conclusions are drawn: if germination does not exceed 10%, then sowing does not make sense. If 40% of the seeds have germinated, you need to double the seeding rate.

Preparing for sowing

There are many ways of pre-sowing seed preparation aimed at obtaining healthy plant shoots and increasing productivity.

First you need to select the largest and most “poured” seeds. Tomato and pumpkin seeds (except cucumber) are kept in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes and then washed in water. Against fungal and bacterial diseases of cabbage, carrots, parsley, celery and beets, the seeds are heated in water at a temperature of 45-50 °C for 20 minutes, followed by cooling.

Photo: AiF/T.Zavyalova

Attention!

Soaking is carried out immediately before sowing. The seeds swell, their shell softens and is freed from substances that delay germination. Pumpkin seeds, cabbage, turnips, rutabaga, radishes, radishes and legumes need twice as much water for soaking, and carrots, parsley, parsnips, dill, beets, lettuce and onion seeds need four times as much.

The duration of soaking at a temperature of 20-25 °C also depends on the crop. For cabbage, lettuce, turnips, radishes, rutabaga, radishes, pumpkins, 12 hours are needed; for tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, beets, carrots, parsley, dill, parsnips, celery - 48 hours, and the water must be changed 2-3 times a day. .

Photo: AiF/ N. Belyavskaya

The arrival of an early harvest is accelerated by additional seed stimulation. An infusion of wood ash is suitable for it: 2 tbsp. spoons are poured with 1 liter of water, left for 1 day, then the seeds are kept in the strained solution for 6 hours. A 24-hour “bath” of seeds in diluted aloe juice is effective: 1 part juice to 2 parts water.

The soil

The loose root layer gives the roots the opportunity to breathe without interference and develop well. As a result, the root system absorbs nutrients more efficiently, which will have a positive effect on plants and harvests. If the soil is loose, it is easier to fight weeds and pests.

Sowing and planting of cold-resistant crops should be carried out when the soil is in a soft plastic state. It is not difficult to determine: the soil easily rolls into a non-disintegrating rope 3-4 mm thick and does not stain your hands (we are talking about loamy and clay soils. - Note ed. ). During this period, the soil has already warmed up sufficiently and contains the optimal amount of moisture. She remains in this state for about two weeks.

Photo: AiF/E. Shutova Plants contain quite a lot of water. It keeps them elastic and participates in all vital processes. With the help of water, nutrients move throughout the plant body, and evaporation protects it from overheating. With its deficiency, vegetables become coarse, tough, and bitter in taste. On the contrary, if there is an excess of water during cultivation, the products will be watery, low in flavor, and tasteless.

If the soil breaks up into small pieces when rolled, but still forms a coherent piece when squeezed, this is a hard-plastic state, which means: seeds and seedlings will need additional watering. If, when squeezed, the lump does not change shape and the pieces do not stick together, then the conditions for seed germination and seedling survival are very poor: in top layer there is no water in the soil.

Spring digging

It is necessary to dig up the soil right before sowing or planting so that the moisture does not evaporate. If the digging is done and the sowing is postponed, the prepared bed can be covered old film, carefully pressing the edges with soil or stones.

In the spring they dig up with obligatory rotation of the formation. Even if you did the same work in the fall, this activity must be repeated in the spring in order to detect and select the rhizomes of perennial weeds and soil pests - wireworms (larvae of the click beetle) and others. At the same time, fertilizers and other additives can be incorporated into the soil.

What to contribute?

Before digging, mineral fertilizers are evenly scattered over the entire surface of the emerging ridge. Per 1 m2 add: ammonium nitrate, superphosphate, chlorine-free potassium fertilizer (30 g of each per 1 m2) or complex fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium (100-120 g). Organic fertilizers are added right along the way to every third or fourth groove between the dug and undug parts of the soil.

Fresh manure can only be applied to cucumbers, zucchini, and pumpkins (5-8 kg per 1 m2). If you “treat” potatoes with it, it will cause scab; carrots, parsnips, and root parsley will react by branching their roots; the bulbs of manured onions will ripen later. Semi-rotted manure and compost are applied under cabbage, potatoes, rutabaga (4-6 kg per 1 m2). Carrots, parsley, parsnips, celery, onions, radishes, lettuce, and dill are grown in areas where organic fertilizers were applied last year. On poor soils, 2-3 kg per 1 m2 of only completely decomposed manure or compost (humus) can be added to these crops. Duration of action organic fertilizers on heavy soils - up to 3-4 years, on sandy soils - up to 2 years.

If there is a need for liming in the spring, then chalk, slaked lime, quicklime, dolomite flour, cement dust, wood ash and other calcium-containing materials - 300-500 g per 1 m2 - are scattered evenly on the soil surface along with mineral fertilizers and immediately dig up to prevent loss of nitrogen from mineral fertilizers.

Do you need garden beds?

In the conditions of the North-West and in damp areas, it is better to grow vegetable crops on ridges or ridges - the soil in them warms up faster in the spring and is freed from excess moisture. On light soils, beds are made up to 10 cm high, on loamy soils - up to 15-20, a convenient width is 1 m. During the formation of the beds, the soil is loosened and leveled with a rake. The edges are formed so that along them there are rollers 5-8 cm high: they will prevent soil erosion during watering or rain.

Nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) are the main nutrients that plants need. What they need most is nitrogen, which promotes the growth of green leaves. Phosphorus gives plants energy and promotes root development, creates disease resistance and affects flower and fruit set. Potassium is involved in the formation of tissues and the construction of the entire plant, promotes the development of powerful roots. Increases plant resistance to diseases and their cold resistance, ensures better preservation of products. In addition to the three elements mentioned above, plants need calcium, magnesium and trace elements in small quantities. Besides them, vegetable crops Humus (humus) is needed.

Sowing

The optimal temperature for germination of seeds of cold-resistant vegetable plants is 20-25 °C, and of heat-loving ones - 25-30 °C.

Photo: AiF/ N. Belyavskaya

Sowing dates*

Sowing begins when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 3-5 °C. Around this time, coltsfoot blooms en masse. You can sow cold-resistant crops: carrots, parsnips, parsley, dill, radishes, spinach, turnips, onions (with seeds), lettuce, Chinese cabbage, peas, coriander (cilantro), watercress, mustard greens. At the same time, early and late seedlings are planted white cabbage, kohlrabi, broccoli.

From May 20, when the soil warms up to 5-8 °C (the benchmark is that birch leaves reach the size of a 10-kopeck coin), it’s time to sow beets and beans. And only in late May - early June, if the soil temperature has risen to 12-15 °C (dandelions bloom), heat-loving crops are sown: cucumber, pumpkin, zucchini, beans, fennel, basil.

If the cold weather drags on, the sowing and planting of heat-loving crops and potatoes may be shifted to a later date. There's no need to rush here.

Sowing technologies

Before sowing, dry soil must be thoroughly loosened and poured to a depth of at least 15-20 cm, then furrows must be made and the seeds sown, trying to maintain the seeding rate. Thickened sowing will bring you a lot of trouble and problems in the future. The shoots in the “brush” will stretch out, the plants will shade each other.

When sowing any crops, add ash (1 cup per linear meter) or superphosphate (20 g), since phosphorus promotes active growth root system.

The lack of nutrients in the soil affects the plant from the first days, and in the future it is almost impossible to completely compensate for their deficiency. Therefore, the basic pre-sowing and pre-planting application of fertilizers (during digging) is mandatory. In the future, periodic feeding will also be needed.

For normal life, plants need oxygen, not only to all above-ground parts, but also to the roots and seeds sown in the soil. Leaves also need carbon dioxide, which is actively involved in the processes of organic synthesis.

The sowing depth depends on the size of the seeds and soil characteristics. Light, loose soils require deeper incorporation compared to heavy soils. The smaller the seeds, the closer to the surface they should be.

Small seed material of carrots, parsley, onions, radishes, various types cabbage is usually sown to a depth of 1-2 cm. Larger seeds - beets, spinach, cucumber - 2-4 cm. Peas, beans, melon, zucchini and squash are buried 3-5 cm, onion sets - 4-9 cm, pumpkin - 6-10 cm.

It is impossible to water immediately after sowing - water will wash the seeds to a great depth and displace the air necessary for seed germination from the soil pores.

Photo: AiF/T.Zavyalova

Nuances

Zucchini, squash and cucumber seeds cannot be germinated. In the future, this threatens diseases of the root system - rot. They can only be soaked for 12-24 hours in aloe extract, or in an infusion of ash, or in a solution of baking soda (5 g per 1 liter of water) or soluble complex fertilizer (1 g per 1 liter). In the same solutions you can soak the seeds of beets, onions, radishes and other crops.

It’s good if tall plants grow in open ground on adjacent rows on both sides of the cucumber and zucchini: beans, corn, peas. With such protection, the air temperature in cool weather around the “sissies” will be 2-5 °C higher than in the open space.

Early ripening greens: dill, lettuce, coriander, watercress, Chinese cabbage can be sown in portions throughout the summer at intervals of 10-15 days. In the North-West, it is better to sow radishes before the end of May, then take a break for the period of white nights until the end of July. With long daylight hours, this crop does not form a root crop, but immediately proceeds to flowering.

Crops can be covered with old film, paper or light, allowing air and moisture to pass through. non-woven material. Netkanka can remain on the ridges long time- under it, young plants will be better protected from frost, and then from pests.

Landing

Landing on permanent place any seedlings, it is good to add 0.5 handfuls of humus, 5-6 peas of superphosphate or one tablespoon of ash into each hole.

Deadlines

From about May 20, you can plant seedlings of cauliflower, celery, head lettuce, onions, onion sets, garlic, potatoes, seedlings of medium varieties of white cabbage.

The end of May is a good time to land in open ground broccoli, kohlrabi, leek seedlings.

Seedlings of tomato and pumpkin crops are assigned to a permanent place of residence in the open air no earlier than June 10, when the danger of frost has passed. In the greenhouse, tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers are planted earlier - be guided by the weather and cover the plants just in case.

This is the main source of energy that is spent on the formation (synthesis) of organic matter in leaves, vitamins and other necessary for the plant connections. All vegetable plants need light, but some crops are considered more demanding (vegetables with edible fruits: tomato, pepper, cucumber, eggplant, pumpkin, beans), others less demanding (root vegetables, lettuce, cabbage, perennial vegetables).

Photo: AiF/ N. Belyavskaya

Landing nuances

Bulbs onions For seedlings to germinate quickly, before planting, soak them in warm (40 °C) water for 2-6 hours and cut them “at the shoulders” if they have not yet sprouted, or cut the bottom crosswise.

It is better to plant seedlings of all crops in the evening; before planting, the holes are watered abundantly to the depth of the arable layer. Plants are buried in the soil up to the first true leaf, being careful not to cover the growing point. The soil around the plants is mulched with a 1-2 cm layer of peat, wet compost, humus and not watered, but only sprinkled with water. Post-planting watering will compact the soil, which may become crusty.

To be on the safe side, the planted seedlings can be covered with non-woven material.

It is important to prevent thickening, thin out and remove weeds in a timely manner. It is better to place rows of plants from north to south so that they are evenly illuminated in the first and second half of the day. In a greenhouse, it is advisable to keep the roof clean: wash glass or polycarbonate, replace the film on time.

Avid summer residents are looking forward to the spring thaw to take care of their plots. At first glance it may seem that in early spring there is nothing to do, since the earth has not yet warmed up, and in some places there is still snow. Spring dacha work includes a whole range of measures to improve the territory and prepare it for the next season.

Basic gardening work in March

First of all, in March or April, you need to remove all covering materials that served the plants as good protection in severe frosts. All structures will have to be thoroughly washed and dried so that when the next winter season arrives, you can use them at the right time.

With the first rays of the sun, not only the lush green flowers appear, but also the weeds begin to actively emerge. Pull them out by the roots from wet soil. Young moss can be easily removed with a brush and water pressure from a hose. If you use water to restore order in March, remember that you need to work at above-zero temperatures, otherwise you yourself will freeze and the area will turn into an ice skating rink.

An important stage of work in early spring is soil mulching. On prepared soil, many plants are less susceptible to rotting, so you can collect good harvest strawberries, cucumbers or pumpkin.

Mulch performs a decorative function and also protects plants from the scorching rays of the sun and the March cold. To make a mulch mixture, sawdust, straw, compost or rotten leaves are most often used.

With the first rays of sun, summer residents begin planting tree seedlings. While the tree is dormant, it takes root best in new soil. Spring is also considered the best time for grafting shrubs and trees.

In early spring there is a lot of work at the dacha, so owners of even small plots are looking forward to the snow melting and at least a little warmer. From spring gardening work The amount of harvest in the future directly depends, as well as the beauty of your favorite area.

Most dacha owners are looking forward to spring so that they can return to their dacha and start improving it and caring for it. Of course, the dacha after winter does not look as attractive as we would like. A considerable amount of work has to be completed before you can begin to admire your own and the surrounding area. You will need to bring tools, seedlings and much more from the city to make the dacha look residential and cozy again. What work will have to be done, and in what order?

This can not only damage the foundation and supporting structures, but also cause the appearance of fungus and mold in the premises. If you find that your basement is flooded, you need to drain it as soon as possible. Some people prefer to wait until the water goes away, but this can cause serious damage to the foundation.

Does your farm have drainage pump? Then you can quickly and easily solve this problem. If there is no pump, you will have to contact a specialist. In any case, you will pay less for their services than for major renovation foundation. To prevent this from happening again, it is worth providing the basement with waterproofing, and also installing drainage system for drainage of melt water.

When inspection basement completed, you can go to the very top - to the attic. Here, be sure to inspect the condition of the roof and rafters.

Wooden rafters can be covered with mold or even rot - this should be eliminated immediately by cleaning and coating with varnish or paint. Otherwise, the infection may spread, and all supporting structures will simply collapse under the weight of the roof. You yourself also need to pay maximum attention.

Make sure there are no holes or cracks in it. If any occur, try to restore the integrity of the roof as quickly as possible. Otherwise, after the first rain, you will have to run around the house, placing basins and pots under the streams of water pouring from the ceiling. Of course, you will have to spend a lot of time on redecorating, without which living quarters will not look very attractive.

After completing the inspection of the attic, you can examine the living area country house. Temperature changes often lead to deformation of wooden jambs, frames, doors and windows.

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It would be better to immediately eliminate all the shortcomings than to suffer all summer later because of doors that open poorly or do not close at all.

Most likely, such an inspection will take at least an hour or two. If the street is dry and warm, then after an hour of ventilation the house will be cozy. If the year turned out to be cold and the spring turned out to be chilly, you will have to use a heater.

Turn it on for several hours, moving it from room to room if necessary, until the air throughout the entire dacha becomes dry enough.

After this, you can begin such a difficult task as moving and arranging furniture, cleaning the dacha and hanging curtains and tulle. By the end of the work, the dacha will take on a completely residential and cozy appearance.

Let's go outside

When the dacha has been ventilated and dried, and things have been put in their places, you can go outside and inspect land plot. There is a large amount of work to be done here, which will most likely take at least a week.

Will need to look after perennial plants, dig up the ground, form beds and sow them annual plants. Of course, it would be better to decide in advance where and what you will grow this year. You can even draw up a rough plan - plant tomatoes and eggplants here, arrange beds with cucumbers here, and sow radishes and herbs here so that they are always at hand.

By the way, it is better to place the garden bed as close to the porch as possible: people often forget about it, and only remember it before lunch. No one wants to run to the other end of the garden. However, if you love flowers and the beauty they bring to the site, you can place them closest to the porch flower beds to admire them when leaving the dacha. But first things first.

We care for trees and bushes

Where does garden care begin in spring? First of all, inspect the bushes and trees growing on your site.

You will almost certainly see dry branches on them, on which there are no young leaves or even buds, while other branches are already covered with greenery. These branches should be removed immediately: there will be no benefit from them, but they will interfere with other branches, as well as with you when harvesting. But don't try to break them off by hand. In this case, you not only risk scratching or getting a splinter, but also damage the bark on young and healthy branches.

It is better to use regular garden pruners to carefully, quickly and easily cut dry branches. If the branches are too thick (thicker thumb), it's better to use garden saw. Cut branches can be burned immediately, as they are not suitable for compost. Too much weak branches, located in the center of the crown, can also be eliminated to ensure the flow of sun and fresh wind to healthy branches, thereby ensuring a rich harvest. definitely needs to be done.

If you have not removed the leaves from the ground in the fall (this is not recommended to ensure better protection roots from frost), then now is the time to do it. There is no point in throwing away or, much less, burning leaves; it is better to send them to compost heap. There they will rot, and in a year you will receive excellent fertilizer for your garden.

Make sure the tree bark has not been damaged by mice or other pests. If there is damage, it should be repaired. Places with damaged bark can simply be sealed with electrical tape, plasticine or even dirt to reduce the risk of infection and also protect the plant from drying out.

Are attacks by various insect pests possible in summer? Then now is the time to spray the trees. It is very important to seize the moment for this work. The best time experts consider the moment when the buds have already swollen, but there are no young leaves on the tree or shrub yet.

This way you can protect your garden from pests. Of course, it’s worth finding out in advance (from your own experience or from the advice of your neighbors) what pests threaten your garden. These can be ants, aphids, codling moths and many other insects. Accordingly, you need to choose the right poison so that it has the maximum effect.