Toilet      03.03.2020

Insulation of the roof along the rafters from the inside. Insulation of pitched roofs on wooden rafters. Preparing, laying and fixing the overlapping layer of thermal insulation

Polycarbonate greenhouse structures are far from uncommon, and they are popular with modern summer residents. Firstly, polycarbonate itself is an excellent material for building greenhouses. Secondly, ready-made kits are sold, which you just have to assemble yourself, provide the necessary microclimate inside and grow vegetables with herbs for your needs or even for sale.

However, not a single room in the winter can exist without heating system. How to equippolycarbonate greenhouse heating in winter? It depends on many factors, we will understand.

Polycarbonate greenhouse insulation in winter

Before deciding how heat the greenhouse in winter (with electricity, gas or from a boiler ), it is necessary to take care of the insulation of the foundation and soil. Otherwise, all the kilowatts of electricity used and the cubic meters of gas or water wound up will be wasted, the heat will go through the soil.

Insulation from cold winds

If do-it-yourself heated polycarbonate greenhousewhile only in the plans, then start by choosing the right location. Special attention devote to the wind rose. Gusty and strong wind currents lead to the destruction of the greenhouse, and if the structure survives, considerable heat losses are possible.

To protect the structure from the winds, it is better to place it near the wall of housing construction, or plant a row of perennial low plants at a distance of 5-10 m.

If this is not possible, then place the greenhouse from north to south. This is done in such a way that there is a main wall on the north side of the structure. Ideally, a brick extension (maybe block or cobbled) should adjoin it. In this case, the entrance is through an extension, and the opposite south wall is made solid. Due to this arrangement, when a person enters the landing zone, the probability of getting cold air to the plants is excluded. winter air.

In addition, a boiler or stove can be placed in the extension, they will not have any negative impact on plants. And the chimney will not harm polycarbonate, since hot chimneys are led to the north side. If heating in a greenhousewill be electric, then a switchboard is located in the extension. Another plus from such a vestibule is that many equip small pantries in it.

Foundation and blind area insulation

Heating a polycarbonate greenhouse in winterlargely depends on the foundation. Beginning summer residents incorrectly believe that it is possible to mount the structure simply on the pins included in the kit, or install it on the ground. This cannot be done in any way, because without a foundation the greenhouse will be blown away by a gust of wind and moved around the site. But even if this does not happen, a greenhouse, equipped simply on the ground, can warp due to soft soil. As a result, cracks will appear under the base through which cold will flow inside.

Therefore, for insulation polycarbonate structures will need extreme measures, namely the installation of the foundation and the construction of a blind area.

This design will guarantee that the soil and roots of the plants planted in the greenhouse will not freeze during severe frosts. First, they mount the foundation from a concrete mixture (crushed stone, sand and cement) or ready-made blocks (even used concrete borders will do). Removed near the foundation upper layer soil to a depth of 0.5 m and build a blind area:

  1. At the first stage, a wooden formwork (from boards) is mounted.
  2. Next, a leveling sand layer is poured.
  3. Then polystyrene is laid as a heater.
  4. Now a reinforcing mesh is mounted (from reinforcement) and poured with concrete mortar.

Sometimes they use not a concrete blind area, but a cobbled one, which is laid out directly on top of the sandy layer.

Keep in mind thatthe most economicalfoundation options (point, using block or concrete support posts, and wood) are suitable only for spring-summer greenhouse structures. They are not suitable for growing seedlings in a greenhouse in winter.

Soil insulation

No less attention is paid to the warming of the soil. The main purpose of the event is to protect the upper heated fertile layer from the lower, colder one. If qualitatively insulate soil, then you will have to spend less money on additional heating . A common option for soil warming consists of the following steps:

  1. In the place where the beds will be, they dig pits to a depth of 0.6 - 0.7 m.
  2. Lay a uniform sandy layer (thickness 5 cm).
  3. Insulation (plates) is placed on the sand, at the joints it must be combined as tightly as possible.
  4. The next layer is drainage (10 cm). For it, you can use crushed stone, expanded clay, pebbles, pieces broken brick. In addition to warming, the second main function of this layer is to prevent stagnation of moisture in the soil. Also, drainage creates a kind of protection for polystyrene, because when digging up the top layer of the earth, you can touch and damage the insulation.
  5. The last layer is fertile soil.

The easiest way to insulate the soil in greenhouses is to raise or equip the so-called warm beds. They are obtained elevated above ground level by about 35-40 cm.

Some plants, the roots of which are dangerous even the slightest cold, are placed on racks or they are planted in boxes.

Heating systems for greenhouses in different climates

When arrangingdo-it-yourself heated polycarbonate greenhousebe sure to take into account the peculiarities of the region. For example, in the southern regions it does not make sense to build an expensive system water heating with a boiler, it will be rarely used. In the north, on the contrary, it will not be possible to do without additional heating .

Winter greenhouses in warm climates

If the climate in the region is warm and mild, and the thermometer is in winter months rarely drops below zero, then the polycarbonate construction will do without insulation. If there are strong winds in the region, then you can insulate the northern part of the greenhouse. The main source of heat in such a structure is solar energy.

Due to daytime solar heating inside the greenhouse increases. The soil and air heated during the day will not have time to give back so much heat at night that the planted plants begin to freeze. In case of single frosts, use electric convectors or form warm beds with bioheating. Biological heating of the beds is carried out due to decomposing manure, in the process it releases about 70 degrees of heat.

This will be enough to make the first plantings on greenhouse beds in January. The plants will be warm and do not require any complex structures or additional costs. It is only important to form a properly warm bed:

  • the first layer is mulch or branches;
  • the next is a layer of manure with peat or sawdust;
  • the last layer is 15 cm of ordinary fertile soil.

If a warm bed is formed correctly, it will effectively heat the soil for 5-7 years, and heating costs will be minimal.

Winter greenhouses in temperate climates

In areas with moderate frosts and not too low winter temperatures, the energy from the sun is not enough to warm the greenhouses. Then heating devices are mounted in greenhouses and the blind area is insulated. Cheap it will turn out if you mount the oven:

  1. Its installation is carried out in the northern part of the greenhouse or in the annex.
  2. If the greenhouse is large, then air ducts are laid along the beds. A small structure will be heated by natural convection.
  3. They heat the stove firewood or other fuel in the evening when the temperature drops outside.

To heat the soil, you can form warm beds with biofuel (manure, compost). At the same time, the main thing is that the roots of plants will remain warm, and the upper part of most crops will normally endure changes in temperature. If the decrease in temperature is of a peak nature, then during severe cold snaps, additional heating elements are installed. Convectors and fan heaters are used to heat the air. The ground can be heated infrared lamps or heaters.

Winter greenhouses in cold climates

In the north, during the winter months, daylight hours are very short, the sun does not affect the temperature regime in the greenhouse, so the room needs continuous heating. Here are the budget options not suitable, you will have to install real heating systems. Among all types of heating greenhouses will best cope with the task of the water system. It is a contour that is laid along the perimeter of the room.

The circuit includes radiators (registers) and pipes connecting them. As a result, along the walls is formed thermal curtain. It will not directly affect the plants, and at the same time it will provide protection from external cold. Greenhouse beds in the northern regions for the winter they are equipped with such types of artificial heating as heating pipes or electric cables laid at the bottom and covered with soil from above.

Heating of a polycarbonate greenhouse

Easiest right nowbuy heatedgreenhouse and do not fool yourself with the installation of heating. But such an acquisition will cost a lot in financial terms. If you do not decide on high costs and will equip heating according to the principle " do it yourself ”, then first check out how many exist different options to ensure the required temperature regime inside the greenhouse. Each method has its positive and negative sides. Perhaps you will choose one heating option or combine several. It is important to take into account the needs of plants, the climatic features of the region and, again, their financial capabilities.

Heating the greenhouse with solar energy

Polycarbonate is a material that transmits light. Therefore, enough sunlight will flow through the walls of the polycarbonate structure to heat the internal space. During the day, the air with the soil will warm up, and at night they will give off the accumulated heat. But due to the sunheat the greenhouse in springor in summer, in winter in most regions this radiant energy will not be enough. The disadvantage of such heating is that in the autumn and winter the daylight hours are reduced, the sun is low above the horizon, as a result of which the penetrating power of the rays is reduced. Solar energy is used as independent heating only in the southern regions. In other cases, it is combined with other types of artificial heating, but at the same time significantly reduces costs.

Biological heating

Another option for natural heating of the greenhouse is biological. It represents the formation of warm beds from organic substances. Soil microorganisms begin to act on organic matter, as a result of which it decomposes and releases heat. The algorithm for arranging such beds is as follows:

  1. Dig trenches to a depth of 0.5 - 0.6 m.
  2. Inside the pit, a fence is made (in other words, walls). To do this, use slate, boards, blocks, bricks.
  3. Expanded clay or pebble drainage is placed at the bottom of the trench, or a sandy layer is poured.
  4. Next, large pieces of wood are laid: hemp, branches, chocks, snags, logs. Sawdust or tree bark is scattered between them.
  5. The next layer will be compost or manure. It is evenly distributed and spilled with a mixture of water with biobacteria.
  6. The resulting bed is covered with several layers of paper or cardboard.
  7. Then they pour everything that remains as a result of cleaning the garden: dry foliage, mowed grass and weeds. This layer should be thick (at least 30 cm).
  8. The final layer is fertile soil. After leveling, it must be poured with warm water.
  9. The beds are tightening film material and kept in this form for 3 to 7 days. During this time soil bacteria will begin to actively work and decompose organic matter. The bed as a result of such processes will generate heat.

Electric heating

Electric heating for greenhouses is considered the most affordable and is represented by several options:

  • installation of a water heating circuit from an electric boiler;
  • laying a heating cable in the ground;
  • installation of infrared lamps;
  • the use of convectors, electric heaters, fan heaters.

The most important advantage electric heating in that the air and soil in the greenhouse will quickly heat up. Electricity is always available, and the electrical appliances themselves are easy to install and operate. However, with the low cost of electrical appliances, the payment for consumed energy can result in a decent amount, and this is the disadvantage of electric heating. In addition, electrical heating appliances are very powerful, and it is not always possible to connect them (sometimes the existing wiring does not withstand).

Stove heating

The stove heating option is especially popular with summer residents, since they can warm up greenhouses in any climatic conditions. They put stoves in the coldest part of the greenhouse (the vestibule, extension, on the north side), and the heated air is distributed depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room - by natural convection, fans or by stretching air ducts. The fuel is firewood, coal, branches, peat, woodworking waste.

Advantages of furnace heating:

  • the stove starts up quickly and the room heats up;
  • fuel is inexpensive;
  • ease of installation and operation of furnaces;
  • the ability to make a stove on your own, using folk remedies (scrap metal, used brick).

As for the shortcomings, this is, first of all, the inability to automate stove heating. For safety reasons, during the heating of the furnace, one must constantly be present in the greenhouse, and this is not very convenient, especially if the region is northern, the winters are cold and it is necessary to heat it from morning to night. Furnaces are used to heat greenhouses. different designs. Consider the most popular options.

Buleryan oven

This stove can be called an improved potbelly stove. Buleryan is produced in industrial production; it is very difficult to make such an oven on your own. Her distinguishing feature in hollow pipes mounted inside the structure and providing a constant circulation of air masses. From below, cold air enters, then it passes through the furnace and at the exit it turns out not hot, but warm, not burning the plants. The Buleryan furnace is characterized by high efficiency, but heat transfer occurs only during the furnace. A few more advantages of such an oven:

  • it is quite compact;
  • consumes little fuel;
  • it is possible to connect air ducts or a water circuit to the Buleryan furnace, and deliver heat to distant parts of the room.

brick oven

A brick oven is not just a heating element, but a full-fledged capital structure. With such heating, a polycarbonate greenhouse can be operated year-round. The size and shape of the oven may vary depending on the area of ​​the greenhouse. Brick ovens have a high heat capacity, they keep the temperature during the day. That is why this option often used for constant heating of winter greenhouses.

The heat in the room is distributed evenly and gradually, while stoves made of bricks operate with low fuel (wood) consumption. It is enough to heat the stove once a day, as a rule, this is done in the evening, and the air will be warmed up until the morning. And during the day, the greenhouse is additionally heated thanks to solar energy. Among the shortcomings brick ovens it is worth noting their high cost. To lay such a stove, you first need to build a foundation in a greenhouse, and then invite a professional stove-maker (you can’t do it yourself, as special skills are needed).

Potbelly stove

A potbelly stove is the simplest version of stove heating for greenhouses. The design is simple: a metal container, a straight chimney, a compartment for laying fuel (this is the combustion chamber) and at the bottom a compartment for extracting ash. When the wood inside the stove burns, its walls heat up and give off heat to the room.

The positive aspects of such heating:

  • the simplest design, many summer residents make potbelly stoves on their own;
  • any type of fuel is suitable for heating;
  • the room warms up quickly.

Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting the rapid cooling and uneven heating of the room. Also, a potbelly stove requires a large number fuel and dries the air space in the greenhouse.

To prevent nearby plants from overheating, as well as to improve the convection of heated air, a fan is installed near the stove. He blows the stove and moves warm air deep into the room.

Water heating

The most reliable, high-quality and efficient way to maintain the desired microclimate in winter polycarbonate greenhouse is water heating. But its installation is very expensive, most often this type of heating is used in greenhouses of impressive size, where vegetables, herbs and flowers are grown in large volumes for sale.

The water heating system is a whole complex of a boiler, radiators, pipelines, a pump, an expansion tank. If the greenhouse is attached to a house that is heated by a water circuit from a boiler, then everything can be combined into one common network. In the case of a stand-alone greenhouse, a boiler is installed in it and water pipes are laid out. Boilers can be used different: running on gas, electricity, fuel (solid or diesel).

Ways to make greenhouse heating economical

Many summer residents install heat accumulators in greenhouses. It can be barrels or plastic bottles with water. They, like air and soil, accumulate solar energy during the day and release it at night. It is advisable to paint the barrels black, so they will accumulate heat much more actively. All combustible garbage is suitable as fuel for stoves. You can kill two birds with one stone: both the room will be warm and the area clean.

It is very important to choose a good location for the greenhouse. It is necessary to put it in the sunniest place (free solar energy will help save kilowatts of electricity and cubic meters of gas).

WITH inside the walls of the greenhouse can be covered with an additional layer of film with air bubbles. The resulting air gap between the film and polycarbonate reduces heat loss. If night frosts are expected, you can not turn on the heating, but cover the beds with geotextiles (in one or two layers). The heat will remain, but in the morning you must not forget to remove the covering material so that the plants do not rot.

Other effective heating methods

Now more and more progressive and quality heating greenhouses. Modern materials are characterized by reliability, environmental friendliness, availability in terms of installation.

Roof batteries

To maximize the use of solar energy, additional equipment is installed on the roofs of greenhouses. So called solar collectors are a system of pipes filled with water and connected to a water heating circuit in a greenhouse. The case in which the system is located is insulated, covered with a transparent cover from above. The sun acts on the collector, the water in the pipes heats up, circulates and heats the room.

In Russia, the installation of solar panels on the roofs of greenhouses is not yet very popular. And they have been used abroad for a long time, for example, in the Baltic states, Poland, Germany. Their cost is too high and the owners doubt whether such an acquisition will pay off? In this case, much depends on the region, namely on the number of sunny days per year. In the south, such equipment will have a high efficiency.

Firstly, solar battery generates absolutely free electricity. Secondly, when the illumination is sufficient, the excess energy can be used for other needs (for example, to illuminate the site). To maximize efficiency, the plane of the battery must be perpendicular to the sun's rays.

If possible, then equip the greenhouse structure with a slope to the south, so the sun's rays better illuminate and heat the greenhouse space.

IR heaters and cable

It is possible to provide soil heating in the greenhouse by laying a special cable with a polypropylene sheath (it protects the electrical part of the conductor from contact with water). The scheme of its installation is as follows:

  1. In place of future beds, they dig a trench to a depth of 0.6 m.
  2. The bottom is covered with an insulating layer so that the heat is evenly distributed throughout the garden and does not go down.
  3. Next, a layer of sand (5 cm) is poured and covered with a protective net.
  4. Lay cable or heating mats.
  5. The sand layer is repeated again with a protective mesh.
  6. And they finish with backfilling of fertile soil with a layer of at least 30 cm.

In the northern regions, this method is especially effective; laying a heating cable will protect the soil from freezing.

Many greenhouse owners prefer infrared heating elements. IR lamps do not heat the air, their rays give off heat to the surfaces they are directed at. As a result, everything that is in the greenhouse gets under heating: land, irrigation system, growing crops, inventory, fences and paths.

The lamps are mounted on the frame of the greenhouse or mounted on the main walls using brackets. With so many different options for heating, your head can go in circles. Before making a decision, you need to carefully study everything, weigh the pros and cons, take into account the peculiarities of the region, the area of ​​the greenhouse, and your financial capabilities. But when you install a heating system in a polycarbonate greenhouse, you can grow fresh herbs with vegetables in winter.

Frosty winters have long taught gardeners how to heat a greenhouse in dozens of ways. To understand which one you need, decide whether you will be on the site all the time or on the weekends, what vegetables you want to grow. Also, heating depends on the size of the greenhouse.

Before starting work, you need to properly prepare the greenhouse for the winter. Check the foundation, walls and roof to make sure there are no gaps, otherwise you will heat the street.

Heating options

You can find many ways to insulate the earth and warm the air in the greenhouse - from industrial installations before laying the foam and insulating material with your own hands.

The main power supply for most heaters are:

  • electricity,
  • solid fuel,
  • Sun,
  • water.

We will analyze the most popular designs, highlight the pros and cons of each - you just have to choose the one that suits your greenhouse.

Electric heaters

Among the variety of these heaters, several groups stand out: those operating on the principle of the sun ( infrared emitters), warming up the air ( heat guns), warming up the soil (thermal mats).

Pros:

  • easy to install by yourself;
  • only a socket is needed for power;
  • easy to remove and rearrange to another place;
  • big choice.

Minuses:

  • do not warm up the air and the ground at the same time;
  • care must be taken to protect against moisture so as not to damage the electronics;
  • a large greenhouse needs several emitters.

Tip: to get rid of moisture, you can use exhaust fan(set it in advance).

Warm floor

It is also powered by electricity and completely covers the base of the greenhouse. You need to take off the ground, put insulating material and cable, then pour the beds again - and the heating is ready.

Pros:

  • the soil is evenly heated - up to 40 ° C;
  • soil heating is automatically regulated;
  • economical is simple system, in which there is only cable and insulation;
  • you will install it yourself, even if you are not involved in construction and design.

Minuses:

  • humidity must be monitored so as not to damage the cable;
  • does not heat the air.

Tip: to avoid freezing the beds, raise them above the ground by about 40 cm.

Water heating

It works just like home heating- hot water moves through the pipe and warms the earth. You can conduct it directly from home, or install a separate boiler. Place the pipes around the perimeter of the greenhouse and between the beds.

Pros:

  • to install such heating is quite cheap;
  • you can assemble this system yourself;
  • well warms up soil and roots of plants.

Minuses:

  • almost does not warm up the air;
  • may not cope with severe frosts.

solar heating

Sunlight is the most natural heating for plants. To save the meager heat that the sun gives in winter, install a collector or special panels on the roof of the greenhouse.

Pros:

  • convenient for residents of the southern regions.

Minuses:

  • for the system to work, it is necessary to constantly clean the snow;
  • the greenhouse should be in the brightest place of the site;
  • more suitable for glass greenhouses;
  • even if you collect daytime heat to the maximum, a sharp nighttime cold snap can nullify all work;
  • expensive equipment.

Stove heating

Many still put potbelly stoves or homemade stoves in greenhouses, despite the fact that this is an old-fashioned way. If you are attracted to such a system, you can buy an oven of the required size and make independent heating.

Pros:

  • easy to use;
  • you can make it yourself and adjust it to your greenhouse;
  • you can choose a stove for available fuel - coal or wood;
  • economical way.

Minuses:

  • fuel must be added constantly;
  • the design is quite bulky, it is difficult to move it to another place;
  • unevenly warms the air - it’s too hot nearby, it’s cool in the far corner;
  • can't support high temperature if a hard frost hits.

air heating

Provided large installations, which drive warm air through the greenhouse. This is complex equipment, therefore it is installed by specialists during the installation of the greenhouse.

Pros:

  • evenly distributes warm air over the top;
  • does not burn leaves with hot air.

Minuses:

  • cannot be installed independently;
  • does not warm the soil;
  • expensive equipment.

Biological heating

This is organic matter - most often horse manure, which is laid in the ground. It is necessary to remove the soil from the beds, fill one-third with manure and fall asleep again.

Pros:

  • manure retains a temperature of 60-70 ° for up to 120 days;
  • well warms up the soil;
  • additionally fertilizes, moisturizes the beds, nourishes the roots.

Minuses:

  • difficult to get;
  • cannot be replaced with ordinary humus, as it quickly loses heat;
  • more suitable for the southern regions.

Conclusion: how best to heat the greenhouse

In order for a modern polycarbonate greenhouse to produce crops even in winter, it is most advantageous to install electric heating.

Infrared emitters are the most popular: they are easy to install, they do not require constant attention and complex maintenance. Moreover, they imitate sunlight which will benefit the plants.

When buying a greenhouse, decide in advance whether you need it in winter or not. It is much easier to heat it in the spring - the earth thaws faster than on the street. With the first plus, you can already start planting.

Any greenhouse owner planning to use it all year round wonders about the equipment of the greenhouse heating.

Many options - two ways

In the world, there are only two ways to arrange greenhouse heating, this is to hire craftsmen who specialize in this industry and arrange heating on their own.

Method one - "casino"

The first method does not require explanation and additions.

  • The only thing that should be done in this case is to select really competent specialists, and not turn to "professionals" - a jack of all trades.
  • In this case, the final result can be described as follows, 50X50, such a kind of roulette.

The second method is difficult but reliable

As for the method of heating on your own, it is worth talking especially, this will be today's topic of our article.

Our reference - it is worth considering even in the case when it is used seasonally. After all, the weather does not always spoil us with good, warm, sunny days. Of course, in this case it will not be necessary to arrange a powerful heating system, but it will never hurt.

But this is a completely different topic, today we are interested in the issue of heating on our own for greenhouses in winter. But this does not mean that this system cannot be used in the summer with a sharp cold snap. Just from the winter period, the summer mode of operation will differ in the duration of the system and the frequency of launch.

Heating options

Currently, there are several options for heating greenhouses:

  • Water
  • Air
  • Combined

It should be noted that the combined method is the most effective in terms of the speed of response to changes in the temperature situation outside the greenhouse.

Heating water

The main element of water heating of the greenhouse is the boiler. Boilers used in greenhouses can operate on completely different fuels and are divided into:

  • Solid fuel
  • Gas
  • Electrical
  • liquid fuel

It all depends on the economic viability of using a particular type of fuel in a particular region.

  • The water heating system consists of pipelines and heating radiators.
  • At the same time, the water system is arranged not only for heating the internal space of the greenhouse, but also for direct heating of the soil.

Option one - two circuits

  • Such a system usually has two circuits operating from the same boiler, but completely independent of each other.
  • This allows for free regulation of the temperature of the soil and air inside the greenhouse strictly according to the specified parameters.

Important - the water heating system must have a good anti-corrosion coating. high humidity in the greenhouse does not contribute to the long-term operation of the water supply system without protection.

Heating calculation is an important component

  • For a polycarbonate greenhouse, water heating must be well calculated.
  • Here it is important to calculate the total number of radiators, the volume of the system itself and the power of the boiler.
  • At the same time, do not forget about the energy source. The right energy source for your boiler significantly reduces the cost of the final product of your greenhouse.

IN Lately polycarbonate coating for greenhouses has become very popular.

  • Polycarbonate retains heat well, much better than glass, it is stronger and more reliable than glass and film, but this does not mean that arranging heating for a polycarbonate greenhouse can be neglected correct calculation heating systems.

If we said that polycarbonate retains heat much better than glass, then this suggests that you will spend much less energy on heating a greenhouse made of polycarbonate than on the same glass-coated greenhouse and nothing more.

Air heating - speed advantage

Air heating a greenhouse is also a very common option. Its most important advantage, adherents of this method of heating, consider the speed with which the interior of the greenhouse can be heated.

Indeed, unlike water heating, air heating allows you to quickly warm up the interior space in just a few minutes.

Disadvantage - speed

But this method has one important drawback, the faster the air in the greenhouse warms up after starting the heating system, the faster the temperature drops after it stops. It is understandable, the liquid in the water heating system has a much higher heat capacity than air.

After stopping the water heating boiler, the liquid gives off heat inside the greenhouse for a long time, and when air system heating, heating stops as soon as the heating system stops.

Lack of soil heating and dryness is an important drawback

Another disadvantage of this system is the lack of separate heating of the soil and the constant need to control the humidity of the air inside the greenhouse. At air heating humidity drops sharply, and this already negatively affects the plants.

Electric heating system

Although we mentioned that electricity is sometimes used in a water heating system, there are purely electrical systems heating.

  • Currently, electricity is a rather expensive energy carrier, so using it as heating a greenhouse using simple elements heating type heating element is completely inefficient and wasteful.
  • Therefore, PLEN infrared heaters are used to use electricity as heating for the structure.

Our reference is PLEN, film electric heater.

Electrical system PLEN

I would like to add a little about this heating system, since not everyone is familiar with it.

  • The principle of operation of PLEN heaters is constructed as follows. Infrared radiation does not heat the air in the greenhouse itself, but the structure and the soil to which it is directed.
  • The heat from heating the structure and the soil warms the air inside the greenhouse.
  • In other words, this system works on a principle very similar to solar heating.

The advantage of IR heaters

  • The advantage of this type of heating is that the warmest heating zone is concentrated at the bottom, closer to the soil and only in the second at the very top.
  • For plants, this is the most effective way heating, there is no need to equalize the temperature in different zones.

IR heaters under close scrutiny

Not everyone is familiar with this system, so let's talk about it in more detail, consider the pros and cons, consider how to choose the right heaters and place them in the greenhouse.

Working principle and advantages

We have already said that IR heaters are somewhat similar to the work of the sun. They emit rays, which in turn are absorbed by the soil and other objects. When heated, objects give off excess heat to the air, heating occurs.

Due to this happens:

  • Most efficient indoor heat distribution
  • Economical energy consumption
  • No drafts

Why is it beneficial

Speaking sparingly and not explaining why, our resource will become like an ordinary advertising one that offers to buy something and promises a lot of benefits of unknown origin in return. We try to help our readers, so by saying A, we will definitely say B.

  • A conventional heating system heats the air.
  • Warm air rises and accumulates under the ceiling.
  • In order to reach the required temperature below, i.e. where plants grow, it is necessary to warm up the air more, which in turn gives off heat to all surrounding objects.

From the foregoing, it becomes clear that in this situation quite a lot of time passes in order to achieve the required temperature and further maintain it at the desired level.

It is worth adding to this that heat is distributed unevenly in convective heating systems and this must be constantly monitored and regulated, and this, as you understand, is special devices and, as a result, additional costs.

Our reference is correct location IR heaters and their correct operation, it is possible to achieve about 40% energy savings.

With IR heating, all these disadvantages are excluded.

  • The heated soil gives off heat and the highest, controlled temperature is created where the plants are.
  • Due to this, energy costs are minimized.

Experience shows - there are advantages

  • When using infrared heaters, they can be placed in places with low thermal insulation, near doors and windows, due to this, heat loss is reduced.
  • At the same time, the movement of air masses, from a temperature drop, is completely absent, therefore there are no drafts, to which some plants are very sensitive.

Experienced gardeners know and can confirm that all these terms have a positive effect on plant germination. The absence of air dryness, and in this case it is excluded, makes it possible to achieve good harvests compared with other types of heating by 30-40%.

Our reference - IR heaters warm up the soil to a depth of 50 - 70 mm. Due to this, the root system is in the most comfortable mode for the growth and nutrition of the plant.

You need to know that at the moment when the soil warms up to 25 - 28 ˚С, the air temperature in the greenhouse does not exceed 20 - 22 ˚С.

As you can see, the most comfortable conditions cannot be achieved with any other heating system. To do this, you will have to install several heating circuits, for soil and air, and at the same time, the systems must operate in a strictly controlled mode. As a result, the cost of the entire system and increased operating costs.

The right choice of infrared equipment for the greenhouse

We figured out the issue, but you apparently have a question, how to choose this equipment for your greenhouse?

Types of equipment and how to use them

Available IR equipment is of two types:

  • light
  • longwave

Lighting equipment

During operation, the light units experience an increased heating of the emitter, it can reach a temperature of 600 ˚С. Such systems are best used in greenhouses with a large area.

Longwave equipment

Unlike light, the emitter of long-wave units does not heat up to such temperatures. Therefore, these units are well suited for greenhouses. small area, for example ", for garden plot will be just right.

Choosing an energy carrier

Earlier in our article, we mentioned that IR heaters allow you to save energy, knowledgeable people understand what is being said. Those who are unfamiliar with these devices probably think that we meant electricity.

This is not so. When we said energy carriers, we meant various energy carriers. Not many people know that there are infrared heaters that run on gas, liquid fuel and of course on electricity.

This circumstance allows you to select units suitable for a particular site and the possibility of using one or another type of energy carrier. You will deal with this issue yourself, choose what is more convenient for you.

Placement of heaters inside the greenhouse

The heaters have been chosen, let's move on to their placement inside the greenhouse.

  • The advantage of these heaters is that they can be installed without the help of specialists. Of course, certain knowledge and experience will be required to properly place them, but we will help you with this.

It is important that in order to minimize heat loss in the greenhouse, it is necessary to place heaters closer to doors and windows.

Power for cold areas

  • When choosing units that will be located in these coldest areas, you should choose units with a power of 500 watts.
  • It should be remembered that the distance from the unit to the nearest plant should not be less than 1000 mm.

Distances and dimensions for placement - mounting methods

Infrared heaters with a ceiling mount are very convenient. These devices are very convenient in use over the places of planting seedlings.

Many will have a question, what distance should be between such a heater and seedlings. In this case, everything must be done empirically, it is done like this:

  • Hang the heater at least 1000 mm from the seedlings
  • After the plants grow up, the heater can be raised a little higher, to the distance of the grown plants.

There are cases when it is impossible to fix the heater to the ceiling, design features greenhouses do not allow, in which case the heater must be fixed to a rigid, fixed structure.

  • IR heaters are installed at intervals of 1500 - 3000 mm.
  • In this case, the height of the greenhouse plays a role, the higher the device is located, the larger the area it heats.
  • When choosing the height of the heater, it is important to remember one more circumstance, the higher the heater is, the larger the area it heats and at the same time less heat goes to the plant.
  • Therefore, observe the measure in everything. Do not proceed from savings on the number of heating devices, but on the comfort of the plant.

Location of smaller units

We have considered the issue of the location of the units high power. The next step is to consider the use of heaters of lower power, 250 watts.

Simple human logic dictates that heaters of this power must be located at intervals of no more than 1500 mm. The placement height, as in the first case, is performed empirically.

Mounting method

  • Heaters of lower power do not need special fasteners and can be hung on a regular wire.
  • By increasing or decreasing the length of the wire, you can successfully adjust the height of the device.

You can use a few tips to save on energy and at the same time increase the efficiency of these devices, this is to arrange them in a checkerboard pattern. In this case, the number of zones remaining without heating is significantly reduced.

  • This recommendation is effective when you need to evenly heat the entire area.
  • If you need to maintain a certain temperature regime strictly in certain areas, in this case, the heaters must be placed directly above these areas.

The main disadvantages of the IR heating system

Like any other devices and units, IR heaters have their drawbacks, not to say about them means to provide our readers with not entirely reliable information that we cannot afford.

  • The main disadvantage of these devices can be considered their high cost.
  • This circumstance sometimes scares off potential buyers of these products.

But we can say the following, with the long-term operation of this equipment, all the costs of acquiring it are ultimately justified.

  • There are many complaints and complaints about the short service life of these devices.
  • In this case, we can say the following, the whole point is not in the device itself, which is really a sample of heating worthy of your attention, but in the quality of the product itself.

This circumstance can be directly attributed to the integrity of manufacturers.

Our advice is to choose devices very carefully. The low price of the offered product is the first bell to think about whether you are purchasing a quality product.

Compliance between the name and the final product

Sometimes on sale you can find IR heaters from a well-known manufacturer at a low price.

Our advice is to look at the price offered on the official websites of manufacturers. If the products you purchase have a lower price, they are definitely trying to slip you a low-quality fake under a well-known name. The result of such a purchase can be only one - wasted money and a bad mood.

Choosing the right IR heaters

  • The purchased device must be well packed.
  • The trading establishment must be provided with a means of checking the device. Words - everything works, all the best, no complaints so far - just words.
  • The included device works absolutely silently. Any extraneous sounds should alert you and give you reason to doubt the quality of the purchased products. We repeat, the words - warm up, run in, pass - just words.
  • Having bought a serviceable device, be sure to ask for a warranty card, a check and provide a certificate for this product.
  • Carefully study the certificate, the brand of the purchased model and the one indicated in the certificate must completely match.
  • The absence of one of these documents is a direct reason to refuse the purchase.

If the greenhouse is used constantly throughout the year for growing vegetables and herbs, then there is a problem with heating it and maintaining the desired temperature. The method of heating largely depends on the material used for the greenhouse.
To date, polycarbonate structures have been widely used. They are transparent and transmit light well. The material is lightweight, characterized by special strength, which distinguishes it from glass. In summer, the greenhouse is heated naturally, and in the cold season, you need to think about heating.

Purpose of heating

  • maintaining the required level of humidity and temperature, that is, creating a climate that will have a positive effect on seed germination, seedling growth, and also save plants from frost
  • a warm greenhouse increases the ability to grow vegetable crops regardless of adverse climatic conditions. Creating an artificial climate allows you to grow any kind of plant, regardless of geographic latitude
  • the ability to influence the amount of harvest and the frequency of its harvest
  • increase income from the harvest.

The choice of heating method depends on many factors, including individual preferences, financial possibilities and the purpose of heating. Existing Methods have their positive and negative properties. Among them, it is necessary to choose the one that is most beneficial from a material and economic point of view.

solar heating

For such a natural way, the greenhouse must be located on the sunny side. IN winter time the sun's rays are also able to perform their immediate functions. They penetrate inside the structure, warming the temperature of the greenhouse environment. For "storage" solar heat use plastic bottles with water and other containers that are laid, installed next to the plants. Their contents warm up, and at night they give off heat. The method is economical and does not require material costs. However, it is more suitable for latitudes with a warm climate, since in other geographical areas such heating does not give the desired result. After sunset, the water begins to cool sharply. There are days when it doesn't show up at all.

This method is suitable for small greenhouses not designed for the commercial production of vegetables. Such an oven can be built with your own hands. The manufacturing technology is not complicated. You will need a welding machine, several pipes, preferably steel or cast iron, sheet iron and brick. It is practical to use, convenient and does not require large material investments. Ash can be used as fertilizer. Heating occurs mainly due to the chimney, through which smoke passes, heating the room. The chimney takes him outside.
At furnace heating you need to constantly be in the greenhouse, as you need to regularly supply fuel. In addition, heat is concentrated mainly around the stove and does not reach remote areas. For its distribution, an additional fan is required. In addition, the heating source creates a risk of fire.

Water heating

For this method, it is enough to install the radiators in the allotted place and connect them with pipes to the boiler. However, the air will warm up unevenly, the heat rises up, according to the law of physics, and the plants and soil will remain in the cold zone. In this case, additional ventilation will be required. Another version of the water heating device is possible. On initial stage the construction of the greenhouse is equipped with a warm floor, pipes are laid under the sowing plots. From the radiators, heat will be supplied to the pipes. In this way, the air in the greenhouse, the soil and the plant will warm up.

With the proposed heating design, in addition to the standard set, a collector is required.
Since the entire system consists of one pipe, it is necessary to monitor the temperature that forms when leaving the radiator to the warm floor. Perhaps it will be high, and harm the plants. To minimize potential risks, you should make not one, but several branches from the radiator. In this case, the pipe located under the floor will warm up to the very end. The technology of this method is quite complex and costly. However, it justifies itself with the economy of operation. Such a carrier gives off heat for some time after being turned off. The type of fuel can be chosen based on material possibilities. The disadvantage is that the air is too dry.

air heating

The first step is to install the heater. If it is powered by electricity, then exhaust pipe you can save. And in the case of heating with wood, it will be necessary to equip a chimney with removal to the outside. This method is very effective, as it quickly warms up the air. In addition, it does not require expensive equipment and complex assembly work. However, it dries the air much more than with water heating, so you need to take care of a humidifier.

To prevent warm air currents from concentrating in one place, powerful ventilation systems are used or ducting is done. Used heaters cease to emit heat immediately after they are turned off. Their lack of inertia.
With a relatively high efficiency of the heating source, it has disadvantages. These include insufficient warming of the soil, which negatively affects their growth and subsequent harvest. You can lay pipes in the ground and install heating using an air duct system. But the problem is that it is necessary to use materials that will be immune to soil corrosion, moisture, and other negative factors. In addition, the system should not only transfer heat, but give it directly to the soil. It is possible to solve this problem, but it is too expensive in terms of material costs.

Quartz

Such a heating system is often called infrared. The operation of the device is in many ways similar to solar heating. Unlike other methods, it is not the air that warms up, but the soil and plants directly, since the rays penetrate directly into objects. Due to them, the air warms up, which at the same time does not lose moisture. This is another advantage of the considered method.
In this regard, infrared panels are installed in a special order. Most often they are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. Additional work on the equipment of chimneys and hoods is not required. The desired device is installed quickly. This method affects the intensity of plant germination, their subsequent development and yield.

Carbon heating films are installed for floor heating not only in residential premises, but also in greenhouses. The laying process is not complicated: the film is evenly placed on the desired surface, a film made of polyethylene is placed on top. It will protect the tape from moisture. Then the entire system is connected to a thermostat, which is necessary to control the temperature, by means of appropriate devices, although the entire equipped system can work without it.
The heating method under consideration is very popular and common in many countries. Panels can be used for a long time. However, this method is not often used when heating polycarbonate greenhouses. This is due to power outages.

Gas heating

To date, this is still relatively cheap way heating. Most best option is a nearby highway gas pipe, but you can also use imported gas cylinders. The installation of such equipment, especially a tie-in to the main line, will require time and material costs. However, over time, the costs incurred will pay off with a rich harvest.
When burned, the gas releases moisture necessary to maintain the desired climate in the greenhouse and carbon dioxide. Despite the complexity of the installation, this heating method remains the most acceptable.

Boiler selection

This heat source is necessary for water and air heating. The boiler is selected depending on the fuel. However, it is more convenient to purchase boilers that do not require constant presence to maintain combustion. They are designed for a long burning period. For comparison: in conventional, relatively inexpensive boilers, to maintain uninterrupted combustion, you need to add fuel every three hours, then in boilers designed for long burning this should be done no more than once a day.

Such designs are distinguished by a high price, but if desired and skill, they can be made independently. Diesel boilers are uneconomical, impractical and inefficient. They require a separate room, the corresponding temperature regime.
It should be noted that heat will linger longer in a well-insulated room. When solving the issue of heating, it is necessary to choose the most suitable option, affordable from a material point of view and the most effective for plants and soil.

Polycarbonate winter greenhouses have long ceased to be a rarity: modern technologies allow you to create the necessary microclimate in them and grow greens, vegetables and even berries for your table or for sale. In heated greenhouses, you can also make a greenhouse or winter Garden. The main task in the construction of a winter greenhouse is to choose the right design and equip the heating system.

In many ways, design requirements depend on the region. In areas with a mild warm climate, where the temperature rarely drops below zero in winter, a polycarbonate greenhouse can not be insulated, it is enough to install temporary heating sources in it and use them as needed. Polycarbonate itself retains heat quite well due to internal cavities, and, heating up during the day, the greenhouse does not have time to cool down to critical temperatures for plants.

Important! To preserve the thermal insulation properties of polycarbonate, its ends must be closed with special plugs. This will prevent cold air from entering the cells.

In areas with a temperate and cold climate, the thermal insulation properties of polycarbonate are not enough to maintain a stable positive temperature in the greenhouse, and they have to be equipped with a constant heating source. In addition, to improve the thermal insulation characteristics, it is necessary to make a number of changes to the design of a standard greenhouse.

Insulation from cold winds

To do this, the greenhouse is located in the direction from north to south, a main wall is installed from its northern end, and even better - a vestibule made of bricks, blocks or timber. The entrance to the greenhouse is made through the vestibule, and the southern end wall make it solid. The device of the vestibule eliminates the blowing of the greenhouse through the cracks in the doors and vents. In addition, it acts as a thermal curtain: when the doors are opened, the plants will not be affected by the flow of cold air.

In the vestibule, you can mark out heating equipment - a stove, a boiler. In this case, the chimney is led out through the north wall, and the polycarbonate will be insulated from hot chimney pipes and possible sparks. When heating with electricity, an electrical panel is placed in the vestibule. In addition, the vestibule can be used as a pantry.

Foundation and blind area insulation

The greenhouse is placed on strip foundation, concrete or from blocks, and around it an insulated blind area is performed. This will protect the soil inside the greenhouse from freezing.

The blind area is done as follows.

  1. Sod is removed around the foundation to a width of 50 cm and formwork is made of boards.
  2. Fall asleep with a leveling layer of sand.
  3. Insulation is laid - polystyrene.
  4. The blind area is poured with concrete along the reinforcing mesh or paving stones are laid out on a layer of sand.

Soil insulation

Warming the soil from below allows you to isolate the fertile layer in the greenhouse from the colder underlying layers. In this case, heating will be more efficient, and heating costs will be reduced.

A popular method of ground insulation.

Step 1. In place of future ridges, a pit is made with a depth of at least 60 cm, a layer of sand 5 cm thick is poured onto the bottom.

Step 2 Insulation plates are laid, combining the grooves at the joints.

Step 3 A layer of expanded clay about 10 cm thick is poured over the plates. It plays the role of drainage and at the same time protects the polystyrene from damage during digging.

Step 4 From above spread fertile soil or equip a warm bed.

Note! In particularly cold regions with high level snow cover for effective thermal insulation the bottom of the greenhouse can be made of foam concrete, brick or wood.

The bottom of the greenhouse - from blocks

Heating systems for greenhouses in different climates

The region in which it is installed has a great influence on the choice of heating in the greenhouse. So, in the south, it makes no sense to install an expensive heating system with a boiler - it will be used for several weeks a year, and the costs of its installation will not pay off soon. In the northern regions, constant heating is indispensable.

Winter greenhouses in warm climates

For the southern regions, it is enough to build warm beds with bioheating and install a backup heating source in case of frost - for example, electric convectors.

The main source of heat in such a greenhouse will be solar energy. Warming up during the day, the air and soil in the greenhouse gradually cool down during the night. Upon reaching the minimum allowable temperature convectors are turned on, supplying warm air to the plants. The soil is additionally warmed due to the processes taking place in a warm bed: it is filled with organic residues, which, when decomposed, actively release heat.

The cost of installing such a greenhouse is not too high. Important to do correct installation polycarbonate and insulate the north side, especially in regions with strong winds. The greenhouse must be equipped with a ventilation system, since in the bright sun, even in winter, the temperature in it can rise greatly.

Winter greenhouses in temperate climates

In regions with a temperate climate, solar energy in winter is not enough to warm up the greenhouse, so you have to resort to warming the blind area and installing heaters. A budget option is a wood-burning stove or other fuel. It is installed on the north side of the greenhouse or in the vestibule, the entire area is heated by natural convection or air ducts laid along the ridges. The stove is heated in the evening and when the street temperature drops.

Warm beds with manure or compost as biofuel are also effective for ground heating. A properly laid warm bed warms the soil for 5-8 years, and heating costs are significantly reduced. The roots of plants remain warm, while most crops tolerate even significant fluctuations in air temperature.

In case of peak temperature drops, additional heating can be installed. Infrared lamps or heaters are perfect for heating the soil: directed radiation warms the surface of the soil and the plants themselves, while the objective temperature in the greenhouse may be low. The air is heated by convectors or fan heaters.

Winter greenhouses in cold climates

In cold climates in winter, the daylight hours are short and the sun does not significantly affect the temperature in the greenhouse. Heating it must be continuous. This task is best handled by a water heating circuit laid along the perimeter of the greenhouse. It may consist of registers or radiators connected by pipes. At the same time, a curtain of warm air is created along the walls, the plants do not experience the effects of cold from the walls of the greenhouse.

Soil heating with biofuels in cold climates can be inefficient: with a single freezing of the beds, the activity of soil organisms stops, and the release of heat stops. The poet's beds in winter greenhouses northern regions are insulated and equipped with artificial heating using an electric cable or heating pipes, which are placed at the bottom of the ridges and covered with soil.

Additionally, in peak frosts, infrared heaters can be used to heat the soil; convectors are more effective for quickly heating the air. With properly installed water heating, it is usually not necessary to resort to them.

In addition to the region, the choice of heating system also depends on the crops you are going to grow. If the winter greenhouse is designed for cold-resistant herbs and greenery, you can get by with ground heating and backup electric heaters. For heat-loving tomatoes, peppers, a stable microclimate, constant heating and additional lighting are necessary.

Heating the greenhouse with solar energy

The space inside the greenhouse is traditionally heated by solar energy. The walls of greenhouses are made of light-transmitting materials. The soil and air in the greenhouse heat up during the day under the influence of radiant energy, and cool down at night. In spring and summer, this heating is sufficient for efficient heating greenhouses.

In autumn and winter, the sunny day is shorter and the sun is low on the horizon. As a result, the penetrating power of the sun's rays is reduced, they illuminate the soil at an angle and it heats up worse.

To improve the efficiency of solar heating of winter greenhouses, do the following.

  1. Create a slope of the greenhouse to the south. This will allow the sun's rays to better illuminate and warm the interior.

  • Sheathe part of the walls with reflective material. Sun rays will be reflected and additionally heat the soil and plants.
  • Install heat accumulators in the greenhouse - barrels of water, painted black. During the day, the containers will actively heat up, at night they will give off heat.
  • Install solar collectors on the roof - this is a pipe system located in an insulated case with a transparent cover, filled with water and connected to a water heating system. Heating up under the influence of the sun, the water circulates through the pipes and heats the interior of the greenhouse.
  • Solar heating is used independent system heating, and in combination with other systems. At the same time, the cost of artificial heating is significantly reduced.

    Biological heating

    The second type of natural heating of greenhouses is the arrangement of warm beds from organic components in them. Under the influence of soil microorganisms, organic matter begins to decompose with the release of heat.

    Step 1. In place of future beds, trenches are made with a depth of 0.5-0.7 m. They are enclosed with walls made of boards, bricks, blocks or slate. Drainage from stones or expanded clay or a layer of sand is laid at the bottom.

    Step 2 The first layer of a warm bed is made from large pieces of wood: logs, chocks, stumps. Branches, sawdust, tree bark fall asleep between them.

    Bottom layer - wood and branches

    Step 3 Lay a layer of manure or compost and spill it with water with biobacteria. Close the bed with cardboard or several layers of paper.

    Step 4 The next layer is a mixture of dry foliage, weeds, and cut grass. The thickness of this layer is at least 30 cm.

    Step 5 Fertile soil is poured to the top of the fences, leveled and watered with warm water.

    Step 6 Cover the beds with covering material or film for 3-7 days.

    In a few days, soil bacteria begin active work on the decomposition of organic matter, and the bed begins to generate heat.

    Prices for covering material

    covering material

    Electric heating

    Heating a greenhouse using electricity is available to every gardener.

    Electric heating can be implemented in several ways:

    • using a heating cable laid in the ground;
    • using electric heaters or convectors;
    • infrared heaters or lamps;
    • using an electric boiler.

    Advantages of electric heating:

    • availability of electricity;
    • ease of installation and operation;
    • low price of heating devices;
    • rapid heating of air and soil;
    • high level of automation.

    Flaws:

    • high price of electricity;
    • it is not always possible to connect devices of the required power.

    A special heating cable is laid inside heated ridges and used to heat the soil and protect it from freezing in the northern regions. The cable laying scheme is shown in the figure.

    Convectors or radiators are located along the main walls - the devices create protection from cold air currents. It is better not to install them in the immediate vicinity of polycarbonate - during operation, the body of the convectors heats up, so the material may melt.

    Infrared heaters do not heat the air, but the surfaces on which the rays fall. As a result, the soil and the plants themselves, paths, ridge fences, inventory and irrigation systems are heated. The heaters are mounted on brackets or hangers to the frame of the greenhouse. Radiation spectrum infrared heaters close to sunny and good for plants.

    Electric boilers for heating greenhouses are quite convenient, but require the installation of a water circuit, which increases the cost of installation. At the same time, their efficiency does not exceed that of other types of electric heating.

    Note! Despite the large list of advantages, due to the high price of electricity, electric heating is more often used as a backup source of heating.

    Another option is a film heater.

    Prices for infrared underfloor heating

    infrared underfloor heating

    Stove heating

    Furnace heating allows you to heat the air to the required temperature in any weather, the main thing is that the heat output of the furnace corresponds to the volume of the greenhouse. The stove is usually installed in the coldest place - near the north wall.

    The distribution of air masses can be carried out in several ways:

    • natural convection;
    • with fans;
    • through air ducts.

    Firewood, branches, briquettes, as well as waste from woodworking industries are usually used as fuel for the stove.

    Stove heating of greenhouses is popular with gardeners due to its many advantages:

    • quick start of the furnace and heating of the greenhouse;
    • inexpensive available fuel;
    • simple installation and operation;
    • the possibility of making a furnace with your own hands from scrap metal or old bricks.

    There are also disadvantages. The most significant of them is the impossibility of automating heating and the need for constant presence, especially in the northern regions, where heating of the greenhouse in winter must be continuous.

    Furnaces for heating greenhouses can be various designs. The most popular options are described below.

    Potbelly stove

    It is a metal stove with a direct chimney. It consists of a combustion chamber with a door for loading firewood. In the lower part there is an ashpit, separated from the firebox by a grate. During the combustion of fuel, the walls of the potbelly stove become very hot and give off heat to the space of the greenhouse.

    Benefits of a potbelly stove:

    • fast warming up;
    • simple design;
    • easy to do by yourself;
    • any fuel is suitable, including garbage.

    Flaws:

    • high consumption of firewood;
    • low efficiency;
    • uneven heating of the greenhouse space;
    • dries the air in the greenhouse;
    • low heat capacity - the furnace cools down quickly.

    To improve the characteristics of the potbelly stove and increase efficiency, it can be equipped with a water circuit. It is made in the form of a tank installed on top of the furnace and connected to a coil or to a heating system. It is possible to improve the convection of heated air and protect the nearby beds from overheating with the help of a fan: by blowing on the stove, it moves the heated air deep into the greenhouse.

    Prices for potbelly stoves

    potbelly stove

    Buleryan oven

    Improved potbelly stove industrial production. The difference between a buleryan and a potbelly stove is that hollow pipes are built into it, through which there is a constant movement of air. Cold air climbs through the lower part of the pipes, flows around the furnace body and exits in its upper part. At the same time, the air does not heat up to a hot state, but remains pleasantly warm, does not burn the plants.

    Advantages of Buleryan:

    • high efficiency;
    • low fuel consumption;
    • compact dimensions;
    • the oven does not burn and heats the space evenly.

    Flaws:

    • an industrial oven, it is quite difficult to make it yourself;
    • low heat capacity - heats only during the furnace.

    Air ducts can be connected to the buleryan pipes and with their help deliver warm air to remote parts of the greenhouse. There are also models with a water circuit.

    brick oven

    A capital structure, it is installed in greenhouses for year-round use. The stove can be of any size and design, depending on the area of ​​the greenhouse. Usually performed according to the masonry schemes for bathhouses or heating stoves and placed in a vestibule or near the main wall.

    Advantages of brick ovens:

    • high heat capacity, the furnace does not cool down within 12-24 hours;
    • low consumption of firewood;
    • a brick radiates heat in a spectrum useful for plants, similar to solar thermal radiation;
    • the distribution of heat throughout the internal volume occurs gradually and evenly;
    • large selection of designs.

    Flaws:

    • a foundation is needed under the furnace;
    • for laying the stove, special skills or a master stove-maker are needed;
    • construction is quite expensive.

    A brick oven is the most heat-intensive option of all those mentioned; it is convenient to use it for constant heating of winter greenhouses. Such a stove is heated once a day, in the evening, after which it heats the air until the morning. During the day, the greenhouse is additionally heated by the sun's rays.

    Rules for installing stoves in a polycarbonate greenhouse.

    1. The stove must be installed on a solid, horizontal base that prevents it from tipping over.
    2. Strongly heated parts of the furnace must be located no closer than 60 cm from the polycarbonate, otherwise it will melt.
    3. The chimney is led out through one of the walls or the roof, and it is necessary to use heat-insulated pipes.
    4. The places of passage through the wall or roof are equipped with penetrations with thermal insulation, and the pipe is fixed.

    For maximum heat transfer, the pipe can be angled and run through the entire greenhouse. In this case, heating will be carried out not only from the furnace itself, but also from the pipe, which will increase the efficiency.

    Note! When choosing a stove, it is important to take into account the fact that the nominal volume of the heated room indicated in the passport is designed for a well-insulated building made of brick or wood. Thermal insulation properties polycarbonate is much lower, so a reserve of thermal power is needed.

    Brick prices

    Water heating

    The most reliable way to create the necessary microclimate in polycarbonate winter greenhouses.

    Water heating is a set of equipment:

    • boiler;
    • heating circuit from pipes, registers or radiators;
    • expansion tank;
    • circulation pump in case of forced circulation;
    • security group.

    The installation of such a system is not cheap, so it is usually installed in large greenhouses used to grow vegetables, berries or flowers for sale. If the greenhouse is attached to a house heated by a boiler, it can be connected to the home heating network. A detached building is usually connected to a separate boiler.

    For water heating of greenhouses, you can use different boilers:

    • gas;
    • diesel;
    • solid fuel;
    • electric.

    All of them have their advantages and disadvantages, they are described in Table 1.

    Table 1. Comparison different types boilers for heating greenhouses.

    Boiler typeAdvantagesFlaws

    Low fuel cost.
    High efficiency.
    Safety.

    Compact dimensions of the boiler.
    Possibility of using a coaxial chimney.
    Gas connection required.
    Most boilers are volatile.
    Relatively high cost of boilers.


    Safety.
    High level of automation.
    High efficiency.
    High cost of fuel.
    It is necessary to arrange a solar tank.

    Independence from communications.
    Availability and low price of fuel.
    Low cost boilers.
    Energy independence.
    Automation is only possible when using pellets.
    The efficiency depends on the fuel.
    Requires a chimney.

    Safety.
    High level of automation.
    High efficiency.
    No chimney needed.
    High cost of electricity.
    Energy dependence.
    Over time, efficiency decreases due to scale.

    The choice of the type of boiler is made depending on the resources and personal preferences. The installation of the heating system is not much different, the only difference is that gas, diesel and electric boilers often equipped with a built-in circulation pump and a safety group, therefore, when installing them, the connection of these elements is not required.

    Step-by-step instructions for installing a water heating system are given in table 2.

    Table 2. Installation of water heating in a greenhouse.

    Stages, illustrationsDescription of actions

    To calculate the required power of the boiler, you need to know the volume of the heated room. To calculate the volume of the greenhouse, you need to multiply its geometric dimensions: length, width and height. Dimensions are taken in meters, the result is obtained in cubic meters. Example: greenhouse with dimensions L=6 m; W=3 m; H=2.5 m. Volume V=6 3 2.5=45 m3

    The power of the boiler is calculated according to the above formula, starting from the volume of the greenhouse. The specific power required for heating 1 m3 is assumed to be 50 W. The result is obtained in kW - it is in these units that the passport power of most boilers is indicated. Example: P=45 50/1000=2.25 W. The result obtained is rounded up to the nearest denomination, for example, 4 kW.

    Radiators, depending on the design, have different thermal power. This indicator is usually indicated in the passport per 1 section for prefabricated models and for the entire radiator for soldered ones. Specified in watts. The number of radiators is calculated based on the power of the boiler, taking into account losses - for this, a coefficient of 1.5 is introduced into the formula. The power of the radiator section is assumed to be 170 watts. Example: n=4 1000/(1.5 170)=15.7 sections. The result is rounded up to the nearest whole number and divided by required amount radiators.

    The foundation for floor boilers is made of reinforced concrete 10-15 cm thick. To do this, the soil is removed from an area of ​​\u200b\u200babout 1 m2 to a depth of 15 cm and a 5 cm layer of sand is covered. The sand is poured with water and compacted. A wooden formwork 10-15 cm high is installed, assembling boards on nails or self-tapping screws. A reinforcing mesh is laid inside, concrete is kneaded and poured into the formwork. Dry for 1-2 weeks.

    The boiler, depending on its type and method of attachment, is installed on a pre-prepared foundation or hung on a main wall. When installing, it is important to align it with the hydraulic level - a misalignment can lead to the formation of air pockets in the heat exchanger. Volatile boilers are connected to the mains. Connect an expansion tank and, if necessary, a heat accumulator. If necessary, a DHW system is connected to the boiler.

    The type of chimney depends on the type of boiler. For gas and diesel engines, a coaxial chimney is used, it is led out through the wall. The coaxial chimney has a channel inside for the inflow of fresh air, so additional ventilation is not required. For solid fuel boilers, a stainless steel sandwich chimney is usually used. It is connected to the flue pipe of the boiler and removed through the roof or wall. The pipe must be fixed. A spark arrester is installed on the upper part of the pipe - if sparks hit the polycarbonate, it can melt.



    The water circuit is connected to the boiler according to the above diagram. Mount the safety group at the outlet of the boiler. Circulation pump put at the entrance to the boiler on the return pipe. A bypass with a balancing valve is inserted between the direct and return pipes. A coarse filter is placed in front of the three-way valve on the return pipe.

    Radiators are connected to pipes, shut-off valves and Mayevsky taps are installed on them to bleed air. If the radiators are equipped with balancing valves, the latter are fully opened. Mayevsky's taps are turning. Plugs are installed on free entrances.

    Pressure testing is carried out with air from the compressor. The pressure test is usually indicated in the passports for the boiler and radiators. Pressure is applied to the system. Joints and joints are successively lubricated with soapy foam and checked for leaks, which can be detected by the resulting bubbles. If air leaks are detected, the units are re-installed with their seal.

    After pressure testing, the boiler is ready for filling with water and starting up. The first start-up is carried out in accordance with the instructions in the technical passport for the boiler - depending on the model, they are different.

    Prices for the circulation pump

    circulation pump

    Video - Water heating of the greenhouse. Part 1

    Video - Water heating of the greenhouse. Part 2

    By installing a heating system in a polycarbonate greenhouse, you can grow greens, vegetables and other heat-loving crops in winter. A heated greenhouse is a good help for the family budget and an exciting hobby for amateur gardeners.