Many people associate an outdoor toilet in a country house with an unpleasant odor, dirt and danger. But modern summer residents strive to make such a toilet the most comfortable and safe place possible.
The design is a small cubicle, wooden or brick, with a toilet or seat located inside. There is a cesspool under the cabin, and it is this, or rather the accumulation of waste in it, that causes the unpleasant odor. During the process of decomposition, human waste releases a foul-smelling gas - methane, which, moreover, is also dangerous to health - a person can lose consciousness when visiting the toilet.
Methane vapor penetrates the wood and destroys it, resulting in deterioration wooden floors and there is a risk of structure collapse. Hence the conclusion: it is necessary to prevent the accumulation of gases and ensure their free release. This is why ventilation is needed in an outdoor toilet.
How does an outdoor toilet work?
The easiest way is to install a ventilation system at the stage of building a toilet. In an existing booth, it will be a little more difficult to equip ventilation.
The arrangement of a toilet in a country house is simple:
- a cabin is built above the ground;
- a cesspool is dug underground.
The simplest option is when the cesspool is located directly under the cabin. This is a common option and easy to build yourself. But toilets whose cabin is remote from the pit are becoming increasingly popular; a toilet can be installed in them, and waste disposal can be organized through pipes. It's much more complex design, which involves the provision of water supply and sewerage.
Description of the ventilation system in the toilet
For best results It is necessary to equip ventilation both in the cabin and in the cesspool.
There are two types of hood:
Diagram of a ventilation system for a toilet in a country house - natural;
- forced or mechanical.
The natural one works thanks to the draft generated by the air flow. Warm air rises, and cold air accumulates below. If you make two holes: one at the top, the second at the bottom, then the flow of cold air coming from the street will displace warm air with methane vapor through the upper passage.
To ensure the best traction, it is necessary to use a pipe, and its diameter must be at least 15 cm and its height 2–2.5 meters. In general, it is considered optimal when the pipe protrudes beyond the roof level by at least 1.5 meters.
Ventilation in country toilet
Forced ventilation provides for connecting a fan that will promote air circulation inside the cabin. In order for there to be fresh air in the toilet, it is necessary to have a window for ventilation. You can combine both types of hood in a cabin to achieve the best results, but installing a fan in a cesspool is strictly prohibited - only exhaust pipe.
What can you make your own ventilation system from?
In order to equip ventilation in the cesspool you will need following materials:
- pipe, diameter 110 mm and length 2.5 m;
- fasteners – 2–3 pieces;
- deflector – 1 pc.
For the ventilation system in the toilet you will need:
- pipe, diameter 110–115 mm, length 2.5 m;
- connecting angle;
- decorative grille for the ventilation hole;
- clamps – 3–4 pcs;
- umbrella or deflector.
If a forced system is used, a fan is also required.
As a rule, toilets in the country have a small area, so the most primitive fan, whose power does not exceed 30 W, will be sufficient. The shape should be chosen depending on the place where it will be installed. It is most convenient to install in a window. In this case, it is better to purchase a square model.
If you plan to install it in wooden wall, then it will be easiest to cut round hole. The fan will work long time, so it’s better to choose a high-quality model that will last for more than one year.
The fan will need electricity to operate. As a rule, its cut is brought to the toilet to provide lighting. The socket must be placed in such a place that moisture does not get on it; it can be mounted into the wall and covered with a box.
The fan has a protective grille, which tends to get clogged. Therefore, you must remember to clean it regularly, not only to ensure the smooth operation of the device, but also to ensure that fresh air enters inside, and not contaminated with dust.
How to make ventilation
Before starting work, you should prepare the necessary tools:
- bayonet shovel;
- drill - if the walls of the booth are wooden;
- hammer drill - if the walls are brick;
- hacksaw for metal;
- roulette;
- level;
- self-tapping screws
DIY cesspool ventilation system
By using bayonet shovel a hole is dug above the hole, the diameter of which should be slightly larger size pipes. This hole should be made near back wall cabins so that the pipe can be conveniently secured using clamps. Lower the pipe into the hole to a depth that is less than the maximum fill mark. That is, so that no waste gets into the ventilation shaft.
Using fasteners and clamps, the pipe is fixed to the wall of the booth. It is buried underneath with earth. A deflector or umbrella is placed on top.
The advantage of the deflector is that this device can increase thrust by up to 30% due to wind power. Therefore, if possible, you should give preference to a deflector rather than a regular umbrella, which only protects from precipitation.
Such simple design ventilation cesspool made with your own hands will prevent bad smell in the toilet. If the cabin is not made airtight, there are cracks, openings, windows that open, and the toilet bowl or seat has a tight lid, then only a hood from the pit will be enough. But, in this case, a slight unpleasant odor will still be present. If there is a need to get rid of it, then you should start installing a ventilation system inside the cabin.
Do-it-yourself ventilation in the toilet stall
Sequencing:
- on top, along the back wall of the toilet, a round hole is made according to the diameter of the prepared plastic pipe. It should be as high as possible, but at a distance of at least 15 cm from the roof level. The hole is made using a drill or hammer drill;
- a corner pipe is installed in the resulting opening;
- the cracks are filled with polyurethane foam;
- the main part of the pipe is attached to the corner element;
- Using clamps and fasteners, the pipe is fixed to external wall toilet;
- put an umbrella or deflector on top;
- inside, the excess part of the pipe is cut off and covered with a decorative ventilation grille.
The next step is to make a hole at the bottom to ensure the flow of cold air:
- using a drill or hammer drill, drill a hole in the bottom of the wall, at a distance of 20–30 cm from the floor. It is better to choose the opposite wall, the one in which the pipe is installed;
- two decorative grilles are installed using self-tapping screws or other fasteners.
This is the final stage - the ventilation in the country toilet is ready.
If during the cold season it blows strongly from the lower hole, you can close it with a barrier.
Video: How to care for an outdoor toilet in the country?
Almost everyone who has a summer house knows what an outdoor toilet is. Many people associate it with an unpleasant smell and the likelihood of falling into a cesspool. If we can’t advise you on the second one, only if you strengthen the floor, but an extractor hood in the country toilet will cope with unpleasant odors.
Everyone roughly knows what a toilet looks like on the street: small wooden structure where there is an unpleasant smell, you can sometimes find a building made of brick. In addition to what is above ground, there is another element - a cesspool. It serves to collect waste products.
Standard design
Causes of unpleasant odor
The source of the unpleasant odor in the country toilet is the cesspool. This happens due to the fact that a mass of various gases accumulates in it, which ultimately turn into methane, and it is this that emits such an unpleasant aroma. In addition to the unpleasant smell in the booth, this gas leads to the destruction of the structure itself. This occurs due to its prolonged exposure to the structure; in this process, the wooden or concrete structure is impregnated with methane, as a result of which its service life is significantly reduced. Based on this, we can conclude that after a certain period of use, such a toilet will be dangerous to use, since there is a high probability of falling into a cesspool.
cesspool
Waste disposal methods
The drainage method is selected depending on how it is used outdoor toilet. There are two main options, not so much the drain, but the option of installing the booth.
- It can be placed directly above the cesspool
- Near the cesspool.
Which option you choose depends on how often you will use it. If, say, the toilet will be used only during infrequent visits to the hacienda (rest), then in this case there is no need to complicate everything, and you can choose the first installation option.
If the outdoor toilet is used as the main one, then you should choose the second option, but in this case it is necessary to install water supply to it or come up with a different drainage system.
If the second option was chosen, do not think that you can neglect the ventilation system. It is also needed as in the first case.
Pit toilet
The principle of operation of the ventilation system
There are two main types of ventilation:
- Mechanical
- Natural.
To make it clear, none of the systems can work without two elements: the supply and exhaust ducts. If at least one is missing, then the draft stops, therefore, the exhaust air does not leave the room.
Now let’s dwell on the choice of air circulation method, consider all the pros and cons of each system.
Mechanical ventilation
This method of purifying the air from foreign accumulations is considered the most effective, but in addition it is also more expensive. This occurs by installing a fan in the exhaust opening leading outside. Thanks to the supercharger, the traction force is controlled, which leads to increased performance. Everything seems to be good, except that the price is a bit steep, but there are other disadvantages:
- More complex installation for an outdoor toilet
- Power dependency
- During operation of the device, it may be necessary to change parts, and the use itself is more expensive.
Fan
But despite this, if you want your toilet to smell like a meadow for a whole year, think about installing compulsory system ventilation.
Natural ventilation
For those who want to save a little and do not care about a slight unpleasant odor in the summer, they can safely choose a natural ventilation system. It will be enough to remove excess methane accumulating in the cabin space. In addition, equipping a toilet with this method of air circulation is quite simple.
The following can be distinguished character traits this method of air purification:
- Ease of execution
- Cheapness
- It works weaker than forced, and is not effective enough in the summer.
Toilet with exhaust window
Installation Features
Let us first consider one common point in forced and natural exhaust - the removal of gas from the cesspool. Each of the options needs this moment. What will we need to do this?
- Bayonet shovel
- Fastenings for drainpipes
- Drill or hammer drill, depending on what material the toilet stall is made of
- Pipe Protective Wrap
- Plastic pipe with a diameter of 100, or slightly more, millimeters
- Deflector.
Installation process
- First you need to dig a through hole with a shovel in order to run the pipe underground into a cesspool
- Then install the drainage fasteners to the rear wall of the cabin
- Install the pipe, it should be about half a meter above the roof level
- Install a deflector at the upper end of the pipe.
Pipe coming out of a cesspool
Now you have made sure that too much methane does not accumulate in the cesspool.
Let's move on to the installation features of each ventilation method.
Installation of mechanical ventilation
As you already know, this option for cleaning a toilet stall from an unpleasant odor is the most effective. And as already mentioned, for its operation it is necessary to select a fan that will be installed in the exhaust vent located in the booth.
Important point. Under no circumstances should the blower be installed in an exhaust pipe coming from a cesspool.
Now let's talk about the location of the supply and exhaust ducts. In order to achieve the maximum efficient work, they must be placed on opposite walls. In addition, the supply duct is installed at a height of half a meter above the floor level, and the exhaust duct is installed at a short distance from the ceiling.
Supply channel
What you need
As mentioned earlier, you will need a fan. But which one to choose? To provide a standard country toilet with a room area of approximately two square meters, a 30 W device is perfect. There is no point in buying something more productive.
Tool kit:
- Hammer or drill, depending on the material of construction
- Screwdriver, electrical tape, pliers
- Roulette and level.
We have decided on the tool, all that remains is to purchase additional materials:
- Everything related to connecting to the power supply, namely: switch, adapters and cable with a protective layer from rain
- Protective grille for supply and exhaust ducts.
Installation
Switch
The first thing you need to do is extend the power supply to the toilet stall. If it is located near the house, then the cable is pulled overhead from the attic. After that, electricity is supplied to the fan installation site in the booth and a switch is installed. Next, using a hammer drill or drill, supply and exhaust openings are made.
Now that everything is ready to install the fan, we mount it in the exhaust vent, secure it with self-tapping screws or construction adhesive, and connect it to the power supply. All that remains is to close the supply and exhaust channels protective grilles.
Installation is complete.
The natural ventilation system is made in the same way as forced ventilation, but it is not necessary to provide power supply and install a fan. The operating principles remain the same.
A country house on 6-10-20 acres is a place where you can both relax and work, growing some crops (or some animals). Like any building, a dacha needs constant air exchange - this is necessary both for the people living there and to prevent dampness and mold.
Let's make a reservation right away: below we will talk specifically about simple country houses, and not about “serious” cottages designed for comfortable year-round living.
Basic nuances and rules for arranging ventilation in country houses
In most cases, a country house is a building with an attic, a basement, a wood stove and usually a small area. It can be built from wood, brick or blocks.
Often, during the construction of seasonal buildings, they try to save on everything they can. Therefore, most often such houses do not have “full” heating, ventilation, or insulation. Therefore, in winter, if it is possible to stay in them, then only in outerwear and with a heated stove.
The following points can be distinguished from the basic rules for arranging a ventilation system:
- The system should be designed based on the seasons of use of the dacha. If it remains closed all winter, you need to think about how it will be ventilated during this time.
- Ventilation needs to be done not only in living rooms. A shed, attic, basement, basement - all this also requires ventilation.
- If inside any of the premises is maintained high humidity(which is common for dachas) - at least in this room it is better to make a forced system.
- It is necessary to equip both inflow and exhaust. If there is something for air to flow inside, but there is no normal exhaust system, ventilation will not work. And vice versa: if there is an exhaust hood, but air from the street does not flow inside, there will be no effect either.
Air exchange method depending on the type of building
The method of air exchange largely depends on the type of building. It could be:
- Wooden building. Wood is able to let air in through cracks and leaks, providing airflow (albeit not always sufficient). Air removal can occur through stove chimney.
- House made of blocks (metal containers). Such buildings are usually completely sealed and have no ventilation, so you will definitely have to arrange it yourself.
- Construction from block materials (brick, blocks of different types concrete) or made of concrete. Air does not pass through such walls, so the ventilation system must be installed during construction. Air can be removed either through a chimney or through a separate ventilation duct.
How do you know if you need to do something about ventilation?
If you are not building a dacha from scratch, but have (or have purchased) a house, you need to decide whether you should worry about air exchange, or whether everything is in order with the ventilation.
The easiest way is to ask the previous owner about it. If this is not possible, or he himself is not aware (for example, he has not been to the dacha for a long time), then you can pay attention to the following factors:
- Is there mold inside? The most obvious “indicator” that there are problems with air exchange.
- Does it feel damp inside?
- Inside on the windows, windowsill, front door- Is condensation forming?
- Is the air in the house stuffy and musty?
These points are worth paying attention to when you arrive at the dacha after some time. Dampness and stale air can be felt after just a few days, but mold will grow if the microclimate is disturbed, and you will not appear at the dacha for several months.
If you notice any of these “symptoms”, there is clearly something wrong with the air exchange.
Calculation: how much air is needed?
Let's assume that you only go to your dacha in warm weather. During the hot months, dachas usually have windows and/or doors open frequently to ensure just the right amount of air flow. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate the system, if we are talking about a “summer” house, only based on the winter period.
Since dachas are usually closed in winter, it is not necessary to create strong air exchange in the building. It will be enough to provide a multiplicity of 0.35.
L = V xKr, Where:
- L – air exchange, in m³ /h which we need to create;
- V – room volume;
- Kr - air exchange rate (for the dacha we took 0.35 - the norm for a residential bedroom).
Please note: ideally, the calculation should be made for each room (room) separately.
Air exchange mechanism systems: natural or forced?
One of the main differencesis the principle of creating air exchange - it can benatural or forced. Below we will consider each option and how to arrange it yourself.
Natural
In this case, air will flow in and out of the room due to the pressure difference. Fans are not used in this scheme. You can read more about it separately.
The scheme is cheap (if you have to buy something, it will be the cheapest products, and you don’t need to spend money on electricity),but ineffective - air exchange largely depends on the weather, and it is difficult to regulate. Suitable if you have a small house that is used only in the summer.
For inflow in natural ventilation systems the following can be used:
- Supply valves - or.
- in the front door (suitable if the area of the house does not exceed 20-40 square meters, otherwise you will have to use a ventilation grill that is too large).
- Windows with micro-ventilation (not very relevant for dachas, since expensive windows are rarely installed in seasonal houses).
- In the summer - just open windows or doors (but in the winter, when they are closed, you will still have to provide inflow in a different way).
For exhaust - either a stove chimney can be used (that is, nothing additional needs to be done if there is already a chimney) or an exhaust air duct. It is mounted at a point as far as possible from the inflow point (so that the air is drawn through the entire room).
The supply is installed as low as possible, the exhaust - as high as possible, under the ceiling. If there are several rooms, there must be inflow points in each one and located opposite the door. The exhaust pipe can be discharged either through the roof, above the ridge, or horizontally through the wall.
Visually about the natural system (video)
Forced
In this case, both supply and exhaust will be carried out using fans. In this case, the air exchange is more stable and can be adjusted. Suitable formore spacious houses in which it is more difficult to organize ventilation naturally.
Otherwise, all the rules are the same as with the natural ventilation scheme - inflow points must be in each room and installed opposite the door. Exhaust hood - vented through a pipe either to the roof or through the wall.
There is another option - installing an air duct system. 1 pipe with 1 fan enters the room and branches: a section is inserted into each room through which air will flow.
Ventilation arrangement for non-residential premises
An important nuance: ventilation (or rather, the supply of fresh air and the removal of “old”) is needed not only for rooms where people will be. Non-residential premises and spaces also need it:
- Underground.
- Barn.
- Attic.
- Basement.
They need a ventilation system to prevent moisture and mold.
Since the listed places usually have a small area and do not need an influx large quantity air - most often it is enough to just make holes in the walls. They need to be done opposite each other.
Naturally forced scheme: air is supplied through supply valves in each room and is removed through air ducts connected to the same duct with the fan
A more effective option is when a simple hole is made for the inflow, and the exhaust is carried upward through the pipe (that is, the inflow point is located below the exhaust point).
If the area of these premises is large, and/or natural ventilation they have it, but it doesn’t cope - you can organize part of the system forcibly. The options are:
- Supply ventilation is organized through openings. Exhaust - carried out through fans that are placed in the wall.
- Supply ventilation is organized through openings. To remove air into the room, a section of air duct is installed, which is connected to the exhaust duct in the living quarters.
- Both supply and exhaust are carried out through air ducts, which are supplied to each room separately.
Ventilation arrangement for residential premises
Arranging a ventilation system for residential premises is a little more complicated than for non-residential ones.
The simplest option is natural: the inflow is organized through openings in each room, and air is removed through the stove chimney. This method is more than enough for small house an area of 25-30 square meters.
If this is not enough, or if there is no stove in the house, you can install an exhaust pipe to remove air, which will go to the roof, or through the wall to the street.
If this is not enough, or you immediately want to get a more serious and efficient system, it is better to insert a fan into the exhaust pipe. Inflow - everything is also organized through openings in each room.
Ventilation systems with forced supply and removal of air are rare for dachas: the areas are too small for their use. Usuallyeven for big houses forced exhaust is sufficient.
An example of a finished ventilation scheme for a house made of SIP panels (video)
What to do in winter?
P You can ventilate your dacha in the summer without any problems. Another thing is to make an air exchange system when it’s cold outside.
It would seem – why does a dacha need ventilation? There is plenty of fresh air around, just open the windows and breathe! An - no. Drafts cannot be avoided, and there is no way to control the air flow. Most country houses are preserved for the winter. “Visiting” dachas during the New Year holidays, many owners feel a musty atmosphere, heavy air, and the smell of mold. This is the result of a lack of air exchange, so ventilation in country house needed.
In ancient times, when houses were built entirely of logs, no one thought about how to make ventilation in the country house. Because “living” wood allowed fresh air from the street to pass through it. It penetrated both window cracks and caulked joints between logs. Unplastered walls supported optimal humidity and temperature. An important element of ventilation country house served as a stove. Through chimney exhaust air was drawn out.
Thus, the design of a house built according to old models implies natural ventilation.
The toilet at the dacha also needs ventilation, especially if the dacha is in use all year round, and feces accumulate in the cesspool. How to do it effective ventilation at your favorite dacha, spending a minimum of money?
Stoves and fireplaces for ventilation of small cottages
Modern execution of ancient construction technologies: This cottage made of timber, with a fireplace or stove and always wooden window frames. Such a country house is perfectly ventilated without special investments.
The wall material will not let the summer heat into the rooms. In winter, the stove will serve as a hood and a heating device at the same time. But to assemble such a dacha ventilation system with your own hands, you will need the skills of a stove maker.
A fireplace can be a good option for ventilation in a country house. The air flow will flow through the cracks in the frames or open vents (if the windows are made of plastic). Blowing out through a chimney.
At the same time, the heating problem for country house, used all year round.
This system is suitable for buildings made of any materials, small area and used mainly in the warm season.
Mechanical ventilation system for the cottage
At the dacha, mechanical ventilation is justified in the following cases:
- large house;
- 2 or 3 storey house;
- the house was built according to frame technology, excluding natural air exchange.
Ventilation forced type in a country house it can be done completely mechanical or combined.
The combined system is easier to install and will cost less, including during operation.
Forced air outflow
You can equip the supply part of the combined ventilation of a country house with your own hands.
If the windows are plastic, supply valves are installed in them. These devices are available for sale and are inexpensive. There are various models of window supply valves. They are attached to the top crossbar of the window sash.
The supply valve can be inserted directly into the wall of the house. This is a fairly simple mechanism, consisting of a pipe for which you will have to make a hole with a diameter of 5 cm and a damper that regulates the intensity of the air supply. In winter, the damper is closed as much as possible to prevent the room from cooling down. You should not purchase complex valves with filters, because clean country air does not need purification.
Air outflow is ensured mechanically. And only skilled craftsmen can handle this work of installing ventilation in a country house with their own hands. Exhaust ducts extend from places of greatest air pollution (for example, the kitchen) into the attic. Installed here exhaust fan, which exhausts exhaust air outside. Negative pressure is created in the house, due to which fresh air is drawn in through the supply valves.
Disadvantages of mechanical hood:
- during long absence the owners' house remains without ventilation;
- ventilation ducts need to be hidden under beams or boxes;
- additional energy consumption for air exhaust;
- it is advisable to select structural elements with the help of a professional.
It is better to entrust the calculation of the thickness of the air ducts and the fan power to a fan engineer.
Forced air flow
You can take a more expensive route by equipping with your own hands a forced air flow into the dacha ventilation system.
Installed at a level of 2 meters from the soil surface Supply unit. Air from the street is collected in a chamber, where it is heated (if necessary) and supplied to the rooms by a fan.
There are two ways to heat the air:
- electric heater;
- heating pipe.
The second is much more practical, but it needs to be designed simultaneously with planning the heating system.
Outflow is provided by ventilation vents in the kitchen, bathroom or toilet (if they are located in the house).
Do-it-yourself supply ventilation of a dacha
Construction supply ventilation Do-it-yourself dachas are a complex and quite expensive process. But some craftsmen, having thought about how to ventilate a dacha, come to original solutions. The air flow is carried out using an air intake. It is mounted from the northern wall. The installation consists of a pair of duct fans and two pipes through which air flows into the body of an old but sealed refrigerator. Here are connected 2 radiators from the car, connected to the recuperator. Each room in the dacha is supplied with 2-4 pipes (depending on the power of the installation and the area of the room) with ventilation grilles. Supply grilles are placed 0.2 - 0.3 m from the floor.
Air outflow occurs naturally. Increased pressure inside rooms squeezes air into corridors, kitchens and bathrooms. Ventilation pipes are installed here.
Thrifty owners use waste warm air in cold weather to heat the greenhouse. Those who want to take advantage of their experience will have to run the ventilation pipe not up through the roof, but towards the greenhouse. The air will be evacuated forcibly by a “snail” pump.
Ventilation of the dacha floor
To ensure good ventilation of the country house, you should also take care of the air exchange in the underground. Ventilation of the floor in the country house protects it from rotting and the entire house from distortions, extending its service life.
If a basement is not planned, ventilation of the country cottage floor is provided by a system of vents (holes) in the basement. Most often, country houses are built with basements. The vents are left at different heights of the plinth, which improves the movement of air flow. The size of the vents is usually 10 x 15 cm. The number of holes is calculated depending on the terrain, architecture of the building, wind rose and climate.
Floor ventilation wooden dachas consists of wall grilles that are mounted above the vents in the floor (also called ventilation sockets).
The grate should be placed at the junction between the boards.
This makes it possible to make a smaller recess in the board, so the strength of the floor does not suffer.
Before installing sockets, you should definitely calculate the air flow pattern, which depends on the placement, type and power of heating devices.
Carpets, cabinets or sofas should not be placed on top of the grilles for ventilation of the country floor.
Ventilation baseboards will also help improve air movement in the subfloor of a country house.
Holes are drilled in the baseboards through which air circulates freely from the room to the underground. This is a simple and affordable method of constructing ventilation in a country house with your own hands. The holes in the baseboards should be up to 1.5 cm in diameter. They are installed along opposite walls. Sometimes a ventilation baseboard is only needed on one side of the room, and a ventilation pipe is used to ensure sufficient air movement. Its exit is located 1.5 meters above the roof.
Try to make such ventilation for your country house with your own hands, just ask a specialist to carry out the necessary calculations.
DIY ventilation in a country toilet
Most country toilets are built as a cesspool, which has a serious drawback - foul-smelling gases resulting from fermentation of feces. It is impossible to hermetically close the pit, so ventilation is necessary in the country toilet.
You can do all the work on installing toilet ventilation in your dacha yourself. The ventilation of a country toilet usually consists of one pipe leading from the pit along the back wall of the toilet. It ends 75 cm above the roof level. PVC or asbestos cement pipes with a diameter of 10 cm are used. Metal brackets are convenient as fastenings.
A special hole for ventilation is provided in the cesspool, where the pipe is installed even before concreting. However, sometimes this ventilation scheme for a country toilet is not always effective and odors penetrate into the stall. Can be assembled with my own hands ventilation of the country toilet cabin. To do this you need to purchase:
- two pieces of PVC pipe 0.5 m and 2 m with a diameter of 11 cm;
- 90 degree corner connection;
- umbrella or deflector;
- decorative lattice;
- fastener
An exhaust hole for ventilating a toilet in a country house is drilled in the wall, as close to the roof as possible. The diameter of the hole must match the diameter of the pipe. The pipes are connected with an angle, a short section is inserted into the hole. The excess section of pipe is sawed off from inside the room. A deflector or umbrella is placed on the upper cut of a long pipe; you need to check it using a level. vertical arrangement pipes, after which it is attached to the wall with long screws and clamps. A ventilation grille is installed at the outlet of the pipe inside the toilet. To prevent blowing into the cracks, they are filled with silicone or polyurethane foam.
To ensure the flow clean air a small hole is made inside the booth on the opposite wall (from the one where the exhaust pipe was inserted). It should be no higher than 0.2 m from the floor level and be covered with decorative ventilation grilles.
The ventilation of an outdoor toilet will work according to this principle: fresh cool air enters the stall, rises up along with unpleasant odors and goes out into the street. But before you ventilate the toilet stall at your dacha, you need to take care of removing gases from the cesspool. Otherwise, self-made ventilation of a country toilet will not effectively combat the stench.
They often annoy owners of their own plots outside the city. The reason for such an unpleasant situation is non-compliance with basic sewerage installation rules and treatment facilities. One of the important elements of communal systems is the ventilation of country toilets. The work of constructing a latrine begins with planning. But even if there are existing problems, they can be eliminated in functioning systems. Understanding schematic diagram ventilation operation will help you choose the optimal way to solve this problem in a particular case.
Why is it needed?
When constructing a toilet on the site, you should not neglect the recommendations of specialists. The amount of work on installing ventilation for a toilet in a country house is not so significant as to save on its implementation. The result will be a complete relaxation in nature, where owners and guests will enjoy fresh air. Air exchange during the construction of treatment facilities is needed to solve the following problems:
- Getting rid of unpleasant odor;
- Decreased concentration harmful substances in the sump;
- Air exchange is necessary for the work of bacteria that destroy drains.
Properly assembled ventilation in a country toilet allows you to extend its service life, since rotting processes are blocked and reduce the risk of mold, for which favorable conditions vital functions are humidity and heat. In the absence of an influx of fresh air, this is exactly the situation that develops. During the decomposition of organic substances, heat is released, the timely removal of which optimizes the work of beneficial bacteria, preventing harmful microorganisms from multiplying
Natural ventilation is the best choice for a country toilet
For suburban area, especially if they are not used regularly, there is no need to install complex and expensive devices. It is enough to observe the necessary measures for the installation of important structural elements. A window in the toilet will not solve problems. It is necessary to create an influx of fresh air and exhaust directly from the waste collection site. Ventilation for outdoor toilets assembled in this way will radically change the processes occurring there. The natural draft created is sufficient for normal operation of the system.
It is advisable to equip a closet with forced exhaust devices when, for example, it is decided to divert the outlet air duct to a certain distance from the toilet, or the section of the pipeline is in a horizontal position. Such route schemes do not differ in functionality under the natural regime of inflow and exhaust. Often an outdoor toilet duplicates the main bathroom located in the house. They are not used as often, so the issue of cleaning and maintenance is not as relevant as compared to the sewerage system, where the main flow of waste flows. An outdoor toilet is very convenient in the summer and with due attention during construction it will not become a source of unpleasant odors, but a comfortable addition to a country holiday.
How to make it yourself
Good natural draft occurs when the air duct is located vertically and the pipe length exceeds 2.5 meters. If the bottom end ventilation pipe is below ground level, and the top one is above the roof, then the system will cope with the task. The diameter of the air duct is also important. It is not recommended to make it less than 100 mm. To ensure good performance, it is necessary to make two ventilation connections. One for exhaust, the other for inflow, and the lower end of the pipe of the first should be higher than the second. The principle of convection is used. The heated air from the cesspool rises upward, where it is captured by the exhaust receiver. Instead, the supply pipe sucks in the required amount of atmospheric mass.
The air duct is installed both inside the toilet itself and outside. For independent work the best option will use a plastic kit. When installing ventilation in a country toilet, you will need a basic set of tools:
- Roulette, ruler;
- Any type of saw (jig saw, circular saw, hand saw);
- Screwdriver for fixing fasteners;
- Drill if additional holes need to be drilled.
It is not necessary to have any experience working with pipes. Detailed instructions manufacturer or watching a video on this topic will be enough. During assembly, it is important to check the presence of seals and gaskets at all joints of the structure. To prevent moisture, debris and leaves from entering the air duct, the ventilation in the toilet in the country is equipped with a protective umbrella at the upper end of the pipe.
Having completed the project and acquired the materials necessary for the work, you should strictly follow the assembly technologies and instructions for specific parts and elements. Special attention is given to sealing joints. The modern generation of building materials is different high level unification. The parts are standard and fit together exactly. O-rings and gaskets make the joints reliable and durable. When assembling, you need to check the complete set of the entire device, and when assembling, do not ignore the advice offered by the manufacturers.
The toilet at the dacha will live up to expectations if the master follows the technology. Often, both professionals and amateurs use sealants to ensure tightness. Silicone-based compounds are popular today. The elastic structure and good adhesion make it possible to maintain the integrity of the joints even during vibrations and physical stress. Sealant connections are well worth the small investment required to purchase them.
One more important factor Successful fight against odor is the construction of the latrine itself. If there is no supply air duct, then you can leave the hole open. When the toilet in the country is equipped with a full ventilation air exchange system, it is better to make a lid. The best way to get rid of the problem of unpleasant odor is to install a regular toilet. Conducting water today does not seem like a difficult task. As a result, the toilet acquires completely new qualities. The toilet has a device for forming a water plug. The drain moves along a sinusoidal curve. Pure water this place is the most in an effective way protecting air purity. In this case, it is possible to completely seal the internal volume of the toilet from the sump.
When constructing a latrine adjacent to the main building, you can use another piece of advice from experienced craftsmen. You can fix the exhaust pipe along the wall of the house, extending it to the roof of the main building. The length of the route will increase significantly. This method is borrowed from the practice of stove makers. The higher the pipe, the stronger the draft. It is possible that with this scheme it will be necessary to install a regulating shut-off valves, because the high performance may cause a noticeable draft in the toilet.
You can improve traction using a deflector. Inexpensive device, easily installed at the upper end of the outlet pipe. Special design creates vortex flows that are converted into directed movement of air masses. According to various estimates, the efficiency of the hood can increase by 10-20%. The device does not require an electrical connection; it operates autonomously, using exclusively aerodynamic laws and rules.
