How to properly make stove heating. Heating stoves: choosing the right stove for heating your home. Stove heating in a private house: pros and cons

A person sitting in front of a fireplace or stove is unlikely to have the idea that these heating devices have low efficiency. The contemplation of fire and the sensation of living heat cannot be replaced by any modern boiler, in which the burner flame is hidden in its depths and is not visible to the eye, and every kilowatt of thermal energy is carefully selected and transferred to the coolant. But it turns out that there is a beautiful, even elegant, compromise solution - a stove with a water circuit for heating a house.

Stove heating

The stove has always been a kind of “heart” of the house. She always traditionally stood in the center, and all life boiled around her. They cooked food in the stove and warmed themselves near it in winter. A well-heated stove accumulated so much energy that even after the fire died out, it gave warmth to all household members for a long time, spreading it like the sun in all directions from its massive walls. And there was always a lot of fuel for the stove - ordinary firewood - in Russia, the main thing is not to be lazy and stock up on it in the summer.

Stove heating has a number of undeniable advantages:

Firstly, stoves do not require connection to gas and electrical networks, they use mainly as fuel, which are a renewable type of fuel; in most of Russia there will always be a lot of them at reasonable prices, and sometimes completely free.

Secondly, the stoves implement the most comfortable radiant heating, when the massive walls of the stove radiate heat, transferring it to surrounding objects and air.
Thirdly, the stove can combine several functions at once: heating itself, cooking, heating water.

Fourthly, contemplating an open fire in fireplaces (and they are, in fact, stoves) creates a comfortable atmosphere.
Fifthly, the massive structure of the furnace during the cold season is capable of accumulating a huge amount of thermal energy, which it will gradually release. In the summer, everything happens the other way around: the stove, which is always built on a separate foundation, “dumps” excess thermal energy into the ground from the hot air, that is, it is a kind of air conditioner.
And finally, stove heating does not harm the environment if it uses natural fuel, because combustion processes occur constantly in nature.

Let’s add a little fly in the ointment and list the disadvantages of stove heating:

Stove heating requires constant human participation: laying firewood, cleaning the ash pit and chimney, adjusting draft and other operations, although for a country house of periodic residence this is more of a plus than a minus.

The more power a stove has, the larger its geometric dimensions must be, and this “eats up” the usable area of the house.
The stove can only heat those rooms with which it is in direct contact. In remote areas, you will have to build or install another stove, as was done in old houses.
Due to its inertia, a traditional Russian brick stove takes a very long time to reach operating mode. Modern fireplaces, stoves, potbelly stoves and
Stove heating has low efficiency - no more than 40% and usually has excess power. When the stove enters operating mode and warms up, it is almost impossible to stand next to it, but then, as it cools down, it gradually gives off heat. In this case, a lot of energy simply flies into the atmosphere through the chimney.
The combustion process of fuel in a furnace is more difficult to control than in boilers. It is almost impossible to extinguish the stove instantly, which increases the level of fire danger.
Furnaces require chimneys with good draft so that combustion occurs intensely and flue gases escape into the atmosphere and do not penetrate into the premises. Chimneys must be insulated from combustible building structures.
The furnace requires constant storage of a substantial supply of fuel, which must be periodically replenished, and slag and ash require disposal.

To summarize all of the above, we can say that stoves have a right to exist, but in many respects they still lose to other types of heating. In general, this is a troublesome business - stoves. If in the conditions of a country house, where a person appears periodically, this is a pleasant chore, then in houses permanent residence the operation of the stove becomes a routine and is most often a necessary measure when, for example, it is not possible to organize another heating system due to the lack of main gas.

Why does heating with coolant outperform stove heating?

As noted earlier, one of the main problems of stoves is the inability to heat rooms remote from them. IN modern models manufacturers of stoves and fireplaces have tried to solve this problem by equipping their heating systems devices with convection air channels, to which air ducts can be connected. Warm air from the stove spreads throughout the rooms, heating them. Very good decision, which, by the way, works great in some homes.

The air in such furnaces serves as a coolant, that is, a substance that can receive thermal energy from the furnace, and then be transported to its destination and transfer it to a remote room. To do this, you just need to build an air duct system, which is not without its drawbacks and is associated with certain difficulties:

Firstly, air ducts are large and often cannot be hidden behind building structures.
Secondly, air ducts offer strong resistance to the movement of heated air, especially if they have many turns. Therefore, there are restrictions on their length.
Thirdly, air has a low specific heat capacity, so in order to transfer a certain amount of thermal energy to a room remote from the stove it is required a large number of heated air. To do this, you need to either build air ducts bigger size, or forcefully supply heated air with a fan.
And finally, a large amount of dust, soot and other contaminants are transmitted through the air ducts, of which there is always plenty near the furnace.

The best and most widespread The coolant used in home heating systems is water due to its advantages:

Water has a very high specific heat capacity ( WITH=4,187 kJ/ (kg*°TO) ) compared to dry air ( WITH=1,005 kJ/ (kg*°TO)), therefore it can receive and transmit large amounts of thermal energy over considerable distances.
Heated water can be easily transported to the desired location through small-sized pipelines.

Water is absolutely harmless, non-toxic and does not burn.
Water is always available, one might say that it is almost free.

The main disadvantage of water is its heat freezing - 0 °C, at the same time it expands in volume and damages the heating system devices. In addition, water, in combination with atmospheric oxygen, has high corrosiveness to ferrous metals. Hard water - with high content calcium and magnesium salts leads to the formation of scale on inner surface pipes, heat exchangers and radiators, which sharply reduces their performance. All this requires special measures:

In year-round homes, in water-hazardous conditions winter time, the heating system is not in danger, since it is constantly in operation. Modern gas and electric boilers have a protection function that will prevent the coolant temperature from falling below +5 °C.
In houses where people do not appear in the winter, the water can simply be drained from the system, but in this case there will be accelerated corrosion of the steel parts of the heating system. Another solution is to use special antifreezes that reduce the freezing point, but they are not compatible with all boilers and radiators, are expensive and age over time.
Very often, in heating systems where the coolant is water, a backup is placed “on guard”, the task of which is to maintain the temperature in the house, and, therefore, the coolant, at a certain minimum level. When the owners appear, the boiler is started, the stoves or fireplaces are lit and the temperature is raised to the desired temperature. After leaving, the “guard” again takes over the post.

To reduce the corrosiveness of water, special additives are added to it or the system is made closed. Then atmospheric oxygen does not penetrate into the heating system and corrosion stops or proceeds very slowly and does not affect the overall service life of the heating system devices.

Of course, the question arises: is it possible to combine the delights of stove heating with the advantages of systems where water is the coolant. And at the same time try to get away from the shortcomings of both. It was not possible to completely solve this problem, but there are quite good technical solutions, both industrially produced and implemented by home Kulibins. Let's consider them, and after that it will be possible to draw certain conclusions.

Brief overview of industrially produced furnaces with a water circuit for heating

Among all the options for implementing a furnace with a water circuit, you must choose those that are already used and successfully operated. And first of all, you need to pay attention to the finished products that the industry produces. And that's why:

In the vast majority of cases, a ready-made stove will cost less than a self-made or built one.
Entire teams of highly qualified specialists with extensive experience work on the creation of finished furnaces, who calculate the design, develop production technology and operating rules.
In production, special heat-resistant grades of steel and cast iron are used, which are not available to the common man at metal depots.
The quality of industrially manufactured stoves is higher than those made by hand, since high-level technological equipment is used.

All stoves that go on sale from manufacturers go through a long and painful process of testing and completing a package of documents with licensing and regulatory authorities.
Industrially manufactured stoves have a warranty from the manufacturer, can be provided with spare parts, they are easier to install, it is easy to select a chimney for them, they are supplied with a set of ready-made standard projects to create a heating system or integrate it into an existing one.

Currently, there are many famous and not so famous manufacturers operating in the furnace equipment market: ABX (Czech Republic), NordFlam (Poland), EdilKamin (Italy), MBS (Serbia), Termofor (Russia), Romotop (Czech Republic), Chazelles (France), Invicta (France), Vira (Russia), Panadero (Spain), Storh (Germany) and many others. As an example, we decided to show two models of stoves with a water circuit: the Aquarius fireplace insert from the Termofor company and the Armada 20 stove produced under the Vira brand. We intentionally present both of these models from domestic manufacturers, since, with equal technical characteristics, some Western “brothers” are either indecently or simply shamelessly expensive.

Fireplace insert with water circuit "Aquarius"

The Termofor company, which is very well known on the market, produces the Aquarius fireplace insert, which can be equipped with a water heat exchanger circuit specifically for heating purposes. Any portal you like can be built for the firebox so that it becomes a harmonious part of the interior of the house. This product is available in two modifications, both with and without a water heat exchanger. We specifically indicated the technical characteristics of both models in the table for comparison.

Models	Aquarius	Aquarius TO

Fireplace insert power, kW	12	12
Volume of heated room (maximum), cubic meters. m	200	200
Overall dimensions, WDH, mm	690515930	690515930
Firebox door opening size, mm	315*535	315*535
Weight, kg	68	77
Combustion chamber volume, l	70.7	62.5
Maximum loading volume, l	56	52
Maximum log size, mm	545	545
Chimney diameter, mm	200	200
Minimum chimney height, m	5	5
Heat exchanger volume, l	-	11.6
Heat exchanger power (maximum), kW	-	6
Maximum operating pressure, kgf/sq. cm	-	0.5

The design features of this fireplace insert model are:

The large heat-resistant glass of the firebox door is protected from soot deposits and allows you to observe the fire.
The large volume of the firebox ensures long burning.
The firebox is additionally protected with fireclay stone, which extends its service life.
Overall dimensions allow you to choose a standard lining for fireplaces or make your own.
The fireplace insert with the Aquarius TO heat exchanger can only be connected to heating systems open type.

From the technical characteristics of this device it is clear that through a water heat exchanger the firebox can transfer up to 6 kW of thermal energy to water, which means that the area of heated premises can be about 50-60 m2 with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. The remaining 6 kW of power can be used to heat the room where the fireplace is installed, so when constructing a portal, convection flows should be organized near the firebox with warm air exiting from above the fireplace.

This fireplace, like, in principle, any stove with a water circuit, is strictly forbidden to be lit without water in the heat exchanger, this will lead to its rapid failure. Connection option "Aquarius TO" in open system heating with natural circulation is presented in the following diagram:

Thus, in addition to its decorative function, the fireplace can heat a small house. In order for the heat exchange to take place more intensively, you can put on the return line circulation pump with bypass line. In the absence of electricity, natural circulation of water will occur, and if there is electricity, the pump will turn on. There are models of fireplaces that can be included in a closed-type heating system, but we will not consider them in this article.

Prices for the model range of fireplace inserts with a water circuit "Aquarius"

Fireplace insert with water circuit "Aquarius"

Solid fuel heating boiler "Armada 20 »

This boiler is produced in Russia at the Bermash plant in the city of Berezovsky. It may seem to the reader that the authors have left the topic of the article, because it is about stoves with a heating circuit, and suddenly the conversation turned to boilers. So the “Armada” boiler is nothing more than a furnace from the same manufacturer called “Legion” in which, instead of convection air heating pipes, a water circuit made of pipes was placed. Has this unit ceased to be a furnace? Of course not! The coolant just changed.

Furnaces are traditionally called heat generators that heat directly in their presence with radiant heat (IR radiation), as well as those that heat the air. Boilers are designed to heat water, which will subsequently be transported to various heating devices: radiators, convectors, heated floors and others. The main task of the boiler is to heat the coolant, and the furnace is to heat everything around it. But we will not deviate from the name declared by the manufacturer and will tell you about the Armada 20 boiler. We present its technical characteristics in the form of a table:

Technical characteristics of the boiler ARMADA 20

Boiler power (heating capacity), kW	20
Heated area (h=2.5 m), sq. m	Up to 200
Overall dimensions (WDH), mm	390660750
Firebox depth/log size, mm	510/480
Weight (without fuel and water), kg	115
Combustion chamber volume, l	90
Fuel loading weight (maximum), kg	12
4.8
Dimensions of firebox door openings, mm	190*292
Connecting thread for direct and return heating lines	G 1 ½“
Volume of water in the circuit, l	28
Working pressure in the system, MPa	0.3
Power of the heating element block, kW	3*2=6
Chimney diameter, mm	120
Chimney height (minimum), m	6
Maximum outlet coolant temperature, °C	95
Minimum inlet coolant temperature, °C	60-80

This furnace (boiler) has some design features, which must be mentioned.

The heat exchanger has a large number of pipes, so the heat removal area in relation to the volume of water inside the heat exchanger is maximum. This achieves greater thermal output.
The door is equipped with a transparent tempered glass screen, which allows you to visually observe the combustion of fuel.
Located on top of the boiler hob. This allows you to heat or cook food.
In the upper part of the firebox, the partition has a removable structure, which allows you to clean the boiler and chimney from soot.
The outer parts of the heat exchanger are also an air convector, which is covered with panels painted with heat-resistant powder paint.
The boiler is designed to burn wood (preferably hardwood), fuel briquettes(eurowood), pellets, as well as brown coal with a fraction size of at least 4 cm.
The boiler cannot be operated without water in the heat exchanger - this will lead to its rapid failure.
The boiler design includes technological holes for installing heating elements, which will allow maintaining the coolant temperature in a safe range in winter without heating.
The boiler can operate both in open and closed system heating with a working coolant pressure of no more than 3 MPa.

Examples of boiler piping for a closed heating system with forced circulation of coolant, as well as an open one with natural circulation, are shown in the figures:

Scheme of piping a stove in a closed heating system

Thus, the Armada 20 boiler (stove with a water circuit) can already heat a fairly large house and at the same time it can still be used for cooking and partially or completely heat the room where it is installed. Although the main heat removal is in favor of water, this boiler still has not ceased to be a stove. Or, on the contrary, this oven never became absolutely complete.

Prices for solid fuel heating boilers "Armada"

Solid fuel heating boiler "Armada 20"

Video: Review of furnaces with a water circuit

Water circuit for heating in a brick oven

It is very tempting to place the heat exchanger of the heating system in a brick oven, given that a huge amount of fuel combustion energy is spent on heating the massive structure. And in fact, stoves with a built-in boiler exist and are successfully operated. And this design has a lot of advantages:

Due to their large mass and ability to accumulate heat, brick kilns are a certain buffer-thermal accumulator, which will take on excess heat and, if necessary, transfer it to someone who lacks it.
In a large brick oven they successfully coexist and hob, and a fireplace, and a water heating circuit, and for all these devices there is no need to build separate chimneys.
Heat transfer on the surface and in the furnace mass occurs evenly, so heat will be transferred to the water circuit with the greatest efficiency.
Even after the fire in the firebox has completely died out, a brick stove can “share” heat with the water circuit heat exchanger for several hours. But here everything depends on the design and weight of the stove.

The main disadvantage of this design is the complexity of implementation. It is best to think about using a stove as a heating boiler before the start of its construction or before reconstruction. In any other case, you will have to plunge into the very troublesome work of disassembling the stove and reassembling it. And the price of a mistake here is very high; it is very difficult to correct something.

If the owner has decided to take such an important step as organizing a water circuit in the building, then there is no way to do it without specialists. Furnaces should be made by stove makers, and developed by engineers together with the same stove makers. No one would think of going to a car mechanic to treat their teeth, so why do some homeowners hope for own strength or rely on the “rich experience” of a neighbor, godfather, matchmaker, brother. That is why it is best to order a furnace project with a water circuit from specialists or use ready-made technical solutions that can be obtained for nominal money or completely free of charge via the Internet. As they say, Google and Yandex will help you.

Any incorrect intervention in a finished furnace disrupts its operation, contributes to its rapid destruction, reduces efficiency and creates a danger to the health and life of people. We list the typical mistakes when installing a water circuit in a brick oven:

The heat exchanger was built into the firebox of a brick kiln, so its volume decreased sharply, which affects the power, filling volume and efficiency, and for the worse. If the coolant actively circulates through it, cooling the firebox, this will lead to a decrease in temperature, the formation of a large amount of soot and chemically aggressive condensate, which will quickly “eat” the heat exchanger if it is not made of of stainless steel.

The heat exchanger was built into the smoke channels of the furnace, thereby disrupting their throughput. As a result, some of the carbon monoxide is returned to the furnace room, and this can lead to very disastrous results.
The heat exchanger was embedded in the masonry. When it is heated, linear expansion of the metals occurs, which leads to destruction of the furnace and the formation of cracks.
Heat exchanger is unreasonably high power built into the chimney. Circulating water reduces the temperature of the flue gases, this leads to an avalanche-like formation of condensation, which destroys both the chimney and the heat exchanger.

And there may be many more similar errors with unpredictable consequences. This once again proves that it is better to use a ready-made technical solution and involve professionals for masonry and installation, since for the money spent on a good stainless steel heat exchanger and the work of a stove maker you can already buy an excellent solid fuel boiler from well-known “brand” manufacturers.

Types of heat exchangers and their locations in a brick kiln

First of all, you need to decide what material the heat exchanger will be made of, which will be placed in a brick oven. There are several options, let's look at each of them:

Copper heat exchangers are very effective, since the thermal conductivity of copper is one of the best, but they absolutely cannot be used inside brick kilns. Why? The fact is that the melting point of copper is 1083 °C, and in the firebox it can rise to 1200 °C. With a constantly circulating coolant, the pipe temperature, of course, will not rise to such values, but who can guarantee that emergency situations will not arise. In addition, copper is very afraid of aggressive chemical compounds that abound in condensate.

Cast iron heat exchangers have the advantage of having very high corrosion resistance. Their main drawback is their fragility and fear of sudden temperature changes. If you run a portion of cold water into a hot cast-iron heat exchanger, temperature deformations lead to the formation of cracks and its failure. Cast iron is difficult to process and is produced in the form of cast parts, which are then assembled with threaded elements through seals, which reduces their reliability. Some craftsmen use it as a heat exchanger cast iron radiators, but their effectiveness is low, except for washing dishes or taking a shower.

Steel heat exchangers are the most common, since steel is an affordable and easily processed material. For the furnace heat exchanger, it is recommended to use heat-resistant steel with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm, and preferably 4-5 mm. It is better to choose seamless pipes. Unfortunately, steel is susceptible to corrosion, so you need to heat the furnace in modes that are least conducive to the formation of condensation, and never drain the coolant from the water jacket.

Stainless steel heat exchangers are the best, but also the most expensive. Most widespread steel grade - AISI 304. It is better not to make these parts yourself, but to order their production at enterprises that have equipment for laser cutting metals and welding in argon. Then the quality of the seams will be as close as possible to the material of the pipe itself.

What is the heat exchanger made of?

Heat exchangers can be made from metal sheet, round or profile rectangular pipes and their combinations. Let's look at their main types.

A heat exchanger made of sheet steel is usually located in the hottest place - right in the furnace firebox, it fits the walls and ceiling and at the same time it has holes for loading firewood and venting flue gases. It is made from a sheet 3-4 mm thick, and pipe sections with a diameter of 40-50 mm for the supply and return lines are welded on top and bottom. The internal gap in the heat exchanger should not be less than 3 cm - to prevent water from boiling. In this case, it is necessary to strictly ensure that the upper supply pipe is at the highest point of the heat exchanger, otherwise steam plugs may form in it, which, when released into the heating system, threaten with a hydraulic shock that can damage pipes or radiators.

Heat exchangers made of pipes are also most often located in the firebox. To manufacture such heat exchangers, take tons of pipes with a diameter of 40-50 mm or profile rectangular pipes 40*60 mm, 60*60 mm. These are used to weld a spatial structure, which will be different in each individual furnace. The main thing is that the heat exchanger does not block the loading door and smoke channels.

If the stove is used for cooking and has a hob, then there are no heat exchangers in the upper part of the firebox; in this case, they should fit around the side surfaces.

Very often, heat exchangers made of pipes in the form of flat registers are located in the furnace hood or in smoke circulation channels. They can remove less heat in these places, so they are usually of impressive size, but they work in milder conditions, so they can last longer. The main condition is that they should not interfere with the exit of flue gases. That is why their design is calculated in advance. It is strictly prohibited to install such heat exchangers in a ready-made furnace.

Calculation of the power and dimensions of the furnace heat exchanger

Naturally, for heating purposes, the power of the heat exchanger must be calculated. An incorrectly designed water circuit will either not provide the required temperature regime in rooms, or, conversely, with excess power in the rooms it will be like in the Sahara Desert and it will be very difficult to reduce the temperature, since it is very difficult to control the flame in a brick oven. How to do it right?

Heating must compensate for the heat loss of the house, so assessing them is the first thing to do. Such calculations are made by heating engineers. The calculation method has a rather complex algorithm and requires a large amount of initial data. It is quite difficult to make such calculations on your own, but practice shows that in most cases, for every 10 m 2 of house area, 1 to 1.2 kW of heating system power is required. In this case, the ceiling height should be from 2.5 to 2.7 m.

After calculating the heat loss, you can proceed to calculating the power of the water circuit itself (heat exchanger), which depends on the environment with what temperature it is located in and on its area of contact with this environment. Practice shows that from each square meter heat exchanger can be “removed” on average 5-10 kWt of thermal energy. But we cannot be satisfied with approximate indicators, so we will calculate more accurately.

Obviously, the power of the entire heat exchanger will depend on its area S and a certain indicator - specific power Q, which reflects how much thermal energy a heat exchanger of a unit area of 1 m2 can provide: Q=S*Q.

Specific power is also a calculated value and can be calculated using a simple formula:

Q y =k*(Tm—t m), kcal/hour, where:

k– heat transfer coefficient of the material per 1 °C. For steel used in heat exchangers k=12 kcal/hour .
T m– temperature of the heating medium (average), which is the arithmetic mean between the maximum and minimum temperatures. T m =(T max+Tmin)/2.
t m– arithmetic mean of temperature in the water circuit. t m =(t under +t arr )/2, Where t under– temperature of the coolant at the outlet (supply) from the heat exchanger, and t arr.– inlet (return) temperature .

Let's assume that the stove runs on coal, then the average temperature in the firebox will be: Tm =(1000°C+600°C)/2=800°C. Let's take the coolant temperature: t m =(80°C+60°C)/2=70°C. Then the specific power of the heat exchanger will be: Q y =12*(800-70)=8760 kcal/hour. Let's convert calories to watts: 1 Watt = 859.85 cal, Means, Qу =8760000 kcal/859.85=10187.82 Watt≈10.2 kW. It turns out that theoretically 10 kW of thermal energy can be removed from one square meter of heat exchanger.

If firewood is used instead of coal, then, naturally, its calorific value is lower. The maximum and minimum temperatures in the firebox will be: Tmax =700° WITH , T min =300° WITH, Means Q y =12*(500-70)=5160 kcal/hour, what is in watts 5160000/859,85=6001,05 ≈6 kW. It turns out that when burning a stove with wood, it is possible to remove about 6 kW of thermal energy from 1 m2 of heat exchanger area located in the firebox.

Depending on the need for the amount of thermal energy, the required heat exchanger area can be calculated: S= Q/Q. Let's assume that 15 kW of thermal energy is needed to heat a house, which means that the area of the heat exchanger that comes into contact with the hot medium in the combustion chamber should be 15/6=2.5 m 2. If the heat exchanger is made of steel sheet, then its area is easy to calculate, but if it is made of round pipes, then the area of each pipe is calculated: Str =2*π*D*l, Where D– diameter tr uby, and l– pipe length. The area of rectangular pipes is calculated as their perimeter multiplied by their length. This is how you can calculate a heat exchanger that will satisfy the heating needs of your home.

Installation of a water circuit in a brick oven

Note important features installation of heat exchangers in a brick kiln:

The heat exchanger must only be installed in a furnace specifically designed for this purpose. When reconstructing old stoves, you need to contact specialists, they will do necessary calculations and will offer a heat exchanger design that will not disrupt the normal operation of the furnace.
After manufacturing the heat exchanger, it must be pressurized with a pressure of 6 bar, both before installation in the furnace and after it is installed.

Typically, heat exchangers are installed immediately after the furnace foundation is laid out, and only then the masonry is carried out.
To compensate for thermal expansion, when installing the heat exchanger, it is necessary to leave a gap between it and the furnace walls of at least 10-15 mm. It is strictly prohibited to embed a heat exchanger into the body of the furnace.
The exit points of the heat exchanger pipes do not need to be walled up with mortars. For pipes, a gap of 5 mm should be left, into which a heat-resistant seal, for example, an asbestos cord, is placed. The exit of the pipes from the furnace must be at least 10-15 cm, so that it is possible to re-cut the thread if it is damaged.
The connection of the heat exchanger to the pipes of the heating system must be done only with heat-resistant seals.

Rules for operating a furnace with a water circuit

Not only are the calculations and the actual installation of the heat exchanger in the furnace quite labor-intensive and responsible operations, but for normal heating operation it is also necessary to comply with a set of rules:

Under no circumstances should you operate the stove with empty heat exchangers, this will lead to their rapid burnout.
It is prohibited to cut off the heat exchanger from the heating system while the stove is running. When water is heated, it expands in volume and pressure increases, which can even lead to an explosion. It's better not to put any shut-off valves at the outlets of the heat exchanger.

Cannot be served cold water into the heat exchanger when the oven is hot. Temperature deformations can damage it. The weakest point is the welds.
To increase the efficiency of the heating system, it is better to use an appropriate capacity with a bypass.

In the heating system, it is necessary to provide a tap at the lowest point to drain water from the system.
If necessary, special antifreeze can be used in the water circuit of the furnace.

Construction of a heating and cooking furnace with a water circuit with your own hands

As already recommended by the authors of the article, it is better to use a ready-made and time-tested stove design, which is described in detail in the famous book by Ya. G. Porfiryev “ Furnace work" This heating device occupies a base area of 1020 * 1160 mm and has a height of 2380 mm. The water circuit heat exchanger has dimensions (750*500*350 mm), is made of sheet steel and is located in the firebox, so the hob is used only for heating food. According to the author of the design, the heat transfer into the water circuit is approximately 5.5 kW with a firebox twice a day, and with increased heating it can reach 18 kW, which allows heating rooms with a total area of up to 180-200 m2.

List necessary materials and instruments

Image	Description of materials (stove appliances)	Quantity, pcs
	Red solid brick (excluding chimney)	710
	Fireclay fireproof brick SHA-8	71
	Fire door 210*250 mm	1
	Blower door 140*250 mm	1
	Ash pan cleaning door 140*140 mm	7
	Grate 250*300 mm	2
	Cast iron plate 710*410 mm	1
	Heat exchanger made of sheet steel 750500350 mm	1
	Furnace valve 130*250 mm	1
	Gate valve for cooking chamber 130*130 mm	1
	Steel strip:
	505400 mm	1
	505980 mm	2
	Steel corner 50505*980	2
	Pre-furnace sheet 500*1000 mm	1

Work order

Before starting work on the construction of a furnace with a water circuit, it is necessary to carefully study the design of the furnace, look at it general form and how it looks in sections. This is all presented in the three subsequent figures.

After this, it is necessary to make a heat exchanger for the water circuit of the furnace, the drawing of which is presented in the following figure.

What should be considered when making a heat exchanger?

The walls facing the fire are made of 5 mm sheet steel.
External walls that bear less thermal load It is permissible to make from 3 mm steel.
A gap of at least 50 mm wide must be left on the rear side for gases to escape from the firebox.
The heat exchanger outlet (supply) is made of seamless steel pipe with a diameter of 40 mm, and it should be welded at the highest point.
The other outlet (return) is made from the same pipe and welded at the lowest point of the heat exchanger.

The order of laying a furnace with a water circuit

Before laying the stove, it is necessary to build an appropriate foundation for it, but in this article we will not consider this issue, but will move on to the order. Before that, let’s get acquainted with the conventions that will be encountered in the future.

Drawing	Volumetric view	Additional view

1 continuous row of bricks is laid out. It is very important to maintain horizontality and rectangularity, since much will depend on this later. There are 36 red bricks in this row.

On the 2nd row masonry, the formation of the base of the ash chamber begins. A door measuring 140*250 mm is installed. 31 whole red bricks and one half are used.

Row 3 is laid according to the scheme. The number of bricks is the same as in the previous one - 31 red whole and half.

On the 4th row, the formation of the firebox begins, so 11 fireclay bricks and 21 red ones are already used. To install grate bars, cutouts are made in the SHA-8 brick.

At the stage of forming 4 rows, gratings are placed in the cut grooves. To compensate for thermal expansion, a gap of about 5 mm is left.

A heat exchanger (boiler) is installed at the bottom of the firebox

When laying the 5th row, a gap of 5-6 mm is left - for thermal expansion of the heat exchanger. A free space is left behind it, connecting to the horizontal channel. At the same stage, 2 doors 140*140 mm are installed - for cleaning the channel. 14 red and 3 fireclay bricks are used.

6th row. The horizontal channel is separated by the channel behind the boiler; the hole left in the previous row will increase the draft of the stove. The firebox door is installed on the same row. 15 whole red bricks and one half are used, as well as 1 fireclay.

According to the diagram, row 7 is laid out. 15 and ½ red and 2 fireclay bricks are used.

When laying the 8th row, the boiler firebox door is closed. For this, a strip of 505400 mm is used. There are 11 and ½ red bricks and 6 fireclay bricks laid out in a row.

In row 9 the boiler supply pipe is released. The fireclay brick halves above the firebox door are cut at an angle. The horizontal channel is divided into two equal parts. 12 and ½ red bricks and 7 fireclay bricks are used.

On the same 9th row, above the firebox door, ¾ of the fireclay brick is cut diagonally downwards.

On the 10th row, the bricks are released inward, so the space above the boiler narrows. 3 red and 18 ½ fireclay bricks are used.

11 row. Bricks from the ends of the furnace are also released inside. Cutouts are made in the bricks for laying the cast iron hob. It is taken into account that the thermal gap must be at least 5 mm. Number of bricks used: 10 red and 16 ½ fireclay.

A cast iron stove is installed on the 11th row. In the place where there will be an opening into the cooking chamber, a corner of 5050980 mm is installed.

On row 12, the cooking chamber begins to form. You should pay attention to the fact that the cast iron cooking surface is removable - lifted by the front part and removed. 12 red and 5 fireclay bricks are used.

Row 13 is laid out according to the pattern, which uses 16 ½ red bricks.

In the 14th row, the vertical channel increases to the entire available width. To clean it, a door 140*140 mm is mounted. 14 ½ red bricks are used.

The 15th row is laid out similarly to the previous one according to the scheme, which ensures ligation of the seams. 14 ½ red bricks are used.

In the 16th row, the facade of the cooking chamber is covered with a steel strip 505980 mm and a corner 50505*980. Uses 15 red bricks.

The 17th row completes the covering of the facade of the cooking chamber; 18 ½ red bricks are used for this.

18th row. To completely cover the cooking chamber itself, two strips of steel 505980 mm are mounted, and 19 red bricks are laid out according to the drawing.

Row 19 completes the covering of the entire cooking chamber. The remaining passage of half a brick is needed for exhaust hood. Recesses for the valve are cut in the passage. Uses 32 red bricks.

The 19th row is completed by installing a small chamber valve 140*140 mm.

Row 20 forms the base of the upper flues. To do this, halves are laid out according to the drawing, which will be the basis of subsequent partitions. For cleaning and inspection, 4 doors 140*140 mm are mounted. Laying this row requires 18 red bricks.

Row 21 continues the formation of partitions. It requires 17 ½ red bricks.

22 row. It requires 21 red bricks.

In the 23rd row, the upper flue ducts are divided into 4 channels. One of them (lower left in the drawing) will later be the main chimney, and the rest serve as a common hood, separated by partitions. Uses 24 red bricks.

Laying 24 rows requires 24 red bricks.

Laying the 25th row requires 23 ½ red bricks.

Laying the 26th row requires 23 ½ red bricks.

Laying the 27th row requires 23 ½ red bricks.

To lay the 28th row, 23 ½ red bricks are required.

Laying the 29th row requires 23 ½ red bricks.

In row 30, the unification of all smoke circulation channels begins, except the main one. Uses 20 red bricks.

Row 31 continues the combination of vertical channels. It requires 21 ½ red bricks.

Row 32 prepares the furnace ceiling. Uses 25 ½ red bricks.

Row 33 covers the oven. The main channel measuring 130*260 mm is left, 35 red bricks are used.

Row 34 covers the oven for the second time. To do this you need 37 red bricks. To install the main smoke damper, grooves are cut.

The smoke damper is installed and adjusted in place.

Row 35 completes the laying of the furnace body. A base is made for the chimney cap pipe. To do this you need 5 red bricks.

Video: Heating and cooking oven with a water circuit

Pitfalls of furnace water circuits

Such a tempting task as arranging a water circuit in a furnace is not as flawless as we would like, since at first glance the right event there are pitfalls. And the topic would not be fully disclosed if the authors kept silent about it. So, what can the owner of a stove with a water circuit for heating expect?

First of all, such furnaces cannot be operated with an empty water circuit, as noted earlier. Let's imagine a situation where a family decides to visit a country house in winter for the weekend and light a stove or fireplace. The prudent owner, of course, drained all the water from the heating system in the fall, so it needs to be refilled. Inconvenience? Of course yes! It is not a fact that there is running water at the dacha, but a good antifreeze based on propylene glycol, poured into the system, costs a lot and can behave unpredictably in ovens. The temperature volumetric expansion of antifreeze is much higher than that of plain water, which is why the pressure increases like an avalanche.
Another pitfall of operating stoves with a water circuit is that in the warm season, having lit a stove for cooking or a fireplace, the owners will have to put up with the fact that the batteries will also be hot, because it is impossible to operate the stove without water, and the excess heat in the summer is completely no need. What should I do? Possible option The solution to this problem is to install heat accumulator, which costs much more than even a very good solid fuel boiler. Another solution could be to install heating radiators somewhere in the attic or basement and in the summer simply switch the water circuit to them, dumping excess heat and making a small contribution to global warming and the melting of Arctic ice. But again, these are unnecessary worries and expenses.
Almost all modern heating systems are made with forced circulation of coolant, for which special pumps are used. This allows for more efficient heat transfer and the use of smaller diameter pipelines. And nothing prevents you from equipping the water circuit of the furnace with a circulation pump, a safety group, an expansion tank and other mandatory components of the system. But is it worth doing this? The big question is. Modern boilers have a safety-conscious design and have been tested high pressure, have protection. The occurrence of a dangerous emergency situation in the case of boilers, including solid fuel ones, is extremely unlikely, which cannot be said about homemade designs of stoves with a water circuit. The influence of the human factor in them is too great.

So, what conclusions can be drawn? Will a furnace with a water circuit become a full-fledged boiler? Never in my life! Yes, this is more than just a stove, but not yet a boiler. And vice versa - a boiler is unlikely to become a stove. These devices have different functions from each other, and their intersection may be economically unjustified, difficult to implement, and in some cases downright dangerous. It is cheaper and better to have a separate stove and boiler, then each of these devices can be implemented in all its glory without interfering with each other.

The ideal location for a water loop furnace from an engineering point of view

Is there such an ideal place where a stove or fireplace with a water circuit is realized in all its glory? Absolutely yes. Let's look at the picture, which shows a diagram of an energy-efficient house.

It can be seen that one of the main components common system heating and hot water supply of the house is heat accumulator, also called a buffer tank, installed in the boiler room ground floor. It is a large capacity container (usually at least 500 liters) in which there are heat exchanger coils from various heat sources. It can be a gas or solid fuel boiler, panels solar collectors, and, as can be seen from above drawing, there was also a place for a fireplace with a water circuit. Analysis of coolant for various purposes (radiator heating,warm floors) comes from this container. All “requests” are monitored by sensors with controllers and pumping groups.

Hot water is supplied from an internal tank, hermetically separated from the main tank. Heat water is coming through metal walls. If necessary, through special flanges into the internal tank with hot water a heating element can be installed, which “helps” at night, when reduced electricity tariffs apply. The body of the buffer tank is enclosed in powerful thermal insulation made of polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 100 mm, which ensures minimal losses heat.

Heating systems based on buffer tanks have undoubted advantages:

Thermal accumulator large volume absorbs excess heat that can be generated solid fuel boilers, as well as stoves with a water circuit or solar systems. This prevents overheating and extends the life of the equipment.
A heating system with a buffer tank operates more stable, since it is not dependent on only one heat source.
Application heat accumulator allows you to save up to 30% of energy resources.

The main disadvantages of systems with buffer capacity are their volatility and the very high price of equipment. Therefore, the use of a furnace with a water circuit, impeccable from the point of view of engineering science, may become completely unjustified from the point of view of common sense. Although, of course, such systems are the future. In developed countries, where the state subsidizes the use of various alternative sources energy, such systems are already used quite widely.

Conclusion

To summarize the article, we can conclude that stoves with a water circuit can be used for heating a house, but with many reservations:

It is best to use industrially manufactured stoves and fireplaces that are specially adapted for.
When using a brick oven to heat the coolant, it is best to build from scratch a structure specially adapted and designed specifically for these purposes.
Implementing a furnace and boiler in one design is a difficult task that has its pitfalls.
The ideal location for furnaces with a water circuit is a heating system with a buffer tank.

The time has long passed when stove heating existed in almost every home. Today it has been replaced by centralized heating, gas boilers, electric heaters and even solar panels. Nevertheless, this oldest method of heating a home has not been completely forgotten and is still popular in some parts of the country.

How does the stove work

There are many types of stoves used to heat a house: Russian, Dutch, fireplaces, etc. Let's consider the principle of operation on such an ancient structure as a Russian stove. It never went out of fashion, remaining the object of attention of specialists. To build it, complex equipment and expensive materials are not required. It is economical; with little fuel consumption, the room quickly warms up and does not cool down quickly.

Before the masonry begins, a foundation is made - a brick, wooden, stone or concrete foundation. Above it there is a stove where firewood for kindling is stored and dried. The oven is closed by a trough-shaped vault on which bedding is laid: brick chips, sand. The bedding is placed on top under the cooking chamber. This is an integral part of the firebox.

After a short heating, a Russian stove cools down for almost a day; in addition, you can cook in it. This is ensured by a bending with a top-overpipe, which ends with a nozzle. There are recesses on the side of the hood for storing smoldering coals and collecting ash. The combustion chamber plays the role of a gas-air economizer where heat exchange occurs.

The firebox, which is the heart of any oven, is divided into a crucible and a baking chamber. Under the furnace is made inclined. The heated air takes part in cooking, then rises to the roof of the furnace. Almost any fuel burns in the furnace, with a small amount of soot deposited. A Russian stove may not be cleaned for decades. Main secret- a complex labyrinth of a smoke channel.

Which stoves are suitable for heating a home?

Home heating equipment requires a careful approach. There are several options depending on the material. The stove for heating a house can be metal or brick. Metal structure beneficial financially. But it is better to install it if the owners do not live in the house during the cold season, since the steel stove cools down as quickly as it heats up. Good this option when only one room needs to be heated. It takes a little wood.

A brick structure is more effective for uniform, long-term heating of several rooms at once. Construction requires skills, so it is better to contact a specialist. This is especially true for the Russian stove, which only a master stove maker can build. It is appropriate to install a brick building in a house where people live permanently. It takes a long time to warm up, but it also cools down slowly.

Brick stoves are divided into cooking-heating, fireplace-type and Russian. They install a fireplace if they want to make the interior of the house special and create a cozy atmosphere. Cooking and heating buildings perform two functions: heating the room and cooking food. The Russian oven can be used both for cooking and heating, and for drying mushrooms and berries. In addition, you can lie on the floors.

Advantages and disadvantages of heating with a stove

The main advantage of this heating is its complete autonomy. Heating does not require additional devices or sources in the form of electricity, a pump, etc. The availability of materials and the possibility of self-laying are also of great importance. For construction complex design you need a stove maker, but if you carefully study some of the subtleties, then even a beginner can handle the construction of a simple stove.

Such a house can be left for any period of time without fear of the system defrosting - nothing will deteriorate or freeze. If everything is put together correctly, then in cold weather it will not be difficult to light the stove through the summer chimney. A stove is a battery whose walls remain heated throughout the day, which is facilitated by good thermal insulation premises.

There are also disadvantages of such heating, including the inability to heat a large number of rooms. The problem can be solved by installing a circulation system. Although in this case the very principle of heating with a stove in its pure form is lost.

The large size of the structure is another undesirable aspect. This disadvantage is partially compensated by its versatility. In addition to heating the room, it is possible to cook food and dry clothes.

How to make stove heating in a private house

When installing a stove for heating a private home, the priority is to balance the heat output of the stove and the heat loss of the room. If all requirements are met, the temperature in the house will be optimally maintained throughout the day. The necessary parameters can be provided by a stove burning wood or other fuel with the installation of a water circuit that is connected to the radiator system. There is also an air heating method.

Water stove heating

In this case, the stove operates on the principle of heating the room with a solid fuel boiler. The only difference is that the walls of the boiler do not participate in the heating process. When burning, the stove heats water in the radiators while the fuel burns. After cooling, its surface heats the room for some time. It is rational to carry out water heating from a stove in the private sector, where there are no gas pipes.

It is possible to make water heating in a house or country house. The stove design must contain a register (heat exchanger) installed in the firebox. Water heating is connected to the heat exchanger. The design of the register can be any, the main thing is that the circulation in it is uniform, which ensures maximum temperature coolant. The heating circuit contains important nuances, therefore design and installation must be carried out by a specialist.

Air stove heating

Based on a brick kiln, it is also made air heating, the principle of which is to supply air heated to the required temperature in a boiler or heat exchanger. The air goes through ducts or enters directly into the room. Thanks to the shortened path, the air flow does not have time to cool down, and the house warms up evenly.

The greatest amount of hot air transfer occurs when the chamber is installed above the firebox. Circulation is provided by fans or naturally due to the different densities of hot and cold air. Forced ventilation allows you to control the process by regulating the microclimate in various rooms of the house.

Steam stove heating

Steam is also used as a coolant. Many people confuse steam heating with water heating, but they are significantly different from each other. Using steam increases heat transfer, and the room warms up much faster. The pipes are not filled with water, and the heating starts easily even after a long break. In addition, a steam heating system is cheaper than a water heating system, which requires larger diameter pipes.

From negative aspects- short period of work. The steam system is poorly regulated; rooms are heated unevenly. There is another undesirable moment when, when filling pipes and radiators with steam, an unpleasant noise is created. In addition, with steam heating, the heating of the pipes is so strong that touching them poses a high risk of burns. Therefore, this method is more recommended for garages, warehouses or other utility rooms.

How to increase stove efficiency

To increase the efficiency of a wood-burning stove, the heating system should be improved by connecting a liquid circuit. The circuit is similar to that used when connecting the boiler. The only difference is that heat production when using a solid fuel boiler for a liquid system is primary. For a stove, the primary factor is heating the house using air exchange.

To retain heat for a longer period of time when burning wood, a liquid accumulator is inserted into the system. During fuel combustion, it helps to accumulate heat, which is then gradually supplied to the fuel thanks to the mixing unit. heating system. To maintain heat throughout the day, you will need several stacks of firewood. You can make one bookmark in the morning. A comfortable temperature will be maintained in the house until the evening. Then you can bookmark again.

Even more effective is a combined heating system, which includes pipes, radiators, a heat generator (furnace), a heat accumulator, an air temperature sensor, and a mixing unit, which is controlled by an air temperature sensor or a water temperature sensor in the heating system. This installation is complicated and must be done by professionals, since all components of the system are tied to the wood stove.

The efficiency of the combined heating system is high. One stack of firewood made in the morning is enough for the whole day. For longer breaks between fireboxes in the cold season, it is necessary to install a more capacious heat accumulator, ensuring a stable temperature in the house for the entire time the owners are away. It is also important not to forget about fire safety the entire heating system.

Many of us, when we hear the phrase “stove heating of a private house,” remember the village, grandma’s pies, log houses, your own household and carefree holidays. However, with age, such heating becomes a pressing and modern issue. In many regions of Russia, heating a house on your own is much more profitable and easier than connecting to a gas pipeline. Let's figure out why.

There is a huge amount different types solid fuel stoves for heating in a wooden house: brick, cast iron, gas, with a water circuit and others. Let's look at the most basic types, consider their advantages and disadvantages, as well as the basic principles of operation and selection of such furnaces.

Stove in the house: types, pros, cons

At home or at work - this means low performance, frequent and other inconveniences. Getting rid of the cold is a top priority, especially in the winter season. But before installing a stove in the house to heat rooms, you need to consider whole line parameters based on which it is worth making a choice. First you need to understand how many rooms will be heated, because the type of stove being installed depends on this.

Wood-burning stove for heating a house

If you need to heat two or three rooms, then a brick stove will be the best choice. It should be taken into account that the house itself must be well insulated with internal and external finishing.

Type of fuel For such a stove either coal or wood is used. The design of the stove must satisfy not only the need to maintain heat in the rooms, but also the need for cooking - the stove must have a hob.

Second question - place. For greater efficiency Wood stoves should be placed in such a place that they can easily heat all three rooms, for example, if the stove stands with one wall in one room and the entire structure in the other two. That is, the optimal choice of location can only be considered one in which the stove is in contact with a large number of rooms in the house.

Further - dimensions. The size of the stove and its massiveness will determine the degree of heat transfer and how quickly the stove will cool or heat the room. If the structure is massive enough, then by heating the stove in the evening, you will receive heat into the rooms until the morning, and this one of the advantages is fuel economy. But it also follows from this minus: A good brick oven takes up a lot of space in the house.

The correct design of the stove will create the necessary draft in order to prevent carbon monoxide from entering the premises, so you should take a responsible approach to choosing it. It is better to build such a stove from high-quality fired red brick: it is practical and easy to lay. Fire-resistant bricks should be used for the hottest surfaces.

Installation It is advisable to deal with such a stove during the construction of a house, separating its foundation from the general one.

The furnace foundation is separated from the main foundation to avoid possible destruction of the furnace caused by shrinkage of the walls of the furnace itself or the building.

You can also install it in an already constructed building, but in this case you will have to make cuts in the ceiling and roof to accommodate the chimney and raise the floor level under the stove.

The disadvantages of such a stove include:

long heating - a decent amount of time is spent heating the stove, but this minus is compensated by the fact that the stove also takes a long time to cool down;
wood heating of a private house has a low efficiency - about 25%, since the main heat comes out through the chimney;
a wood-burning stove in a private house heats itself, that is, its walls, and the air is heated from the walls;
constant presence is required to monitor the temperature level in the firebox and add firewood, as well as for fire prevention purposes.

If a solid fuel stove is quite bulky, and there is not enough heat from it for a given heating area, then it is better to purchase.

A wood-burning boiler, with smaller dimensions compared to a stove, can heat all rooms, since the principle of operation is very simple. Burnt wood gives off heat to the built-in heat exchanger; pipes are connected to the latter, through which heated water flows throughout the house to heating sources: radiators, radiators and others. In addition, both the boiler and the chimney release heat into the room.

But there are also disadvantages:

heavy weight;
lack of automatic temperature control and maintenance modes;
fire safety - constant presence of a person is necessary, there is no possibility of being away for a long time;
The boiler requires a separate room.

By the way, many people wonder: what is the difference between a fireplace and a stove? The simplest answer: a fireplace is not suitable for heating a large area, even inside one room. It has an open hearth and a chimney built on top. The latter is made with a large cross-section to provide high draft to prevent smoke from entering the room. As a conclusion: the whole house cannot be heated with a fireplace, unlike a stove.

If it is necessary to heat houses with more than three rooms, they are more often used brick oven with water heating. The principle of operation of such a stove is to heat water in a circuit built into the stove itself, from where it flows through pipes to radiators in other rooms and, when cooled, returns to the stove for heating.

For wiring, polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes are most often used.

The circuits themselves have different structures, but the same main task - heating the internal fluid. To accelerate the movement of the heat exchange element - water - a water pump is included in such a circuit.

When heated, the water pressure increases and, to prevent the heating system from breaking down, it is built into the circuit.

Its purpose is to control surges in water pressure in the pipes: as the temperature rises, excess water enters the tank and pulls back the membrane built into it; when it cools, the water goes back into the system, returning the membrane to its place.

Selecting a heat exchanger is an important part of installing such a furnace. If the wall thickness metal pipes will be less than 5 mm, this is fraught with disassembly of the structure several years later due to its failure.

In this case, the equipment heats not only itself, but also the water flowing through pipes into the rooms for uniform heating, which increases efficiency.

An excellent solution for small houses, including country houses, a cast iron stove will become, because, despite its small size, this type of heating is acceptable for rooms of 80-90 cubic meters. In such ovens, as a rule, there is already a built-in hob, which benefits housewives. The modern, elegant design of such heating equipment will add a special flavor to your interior. For this reason, such stoves can often be found in mansions and expensive homes.

Again, the most convenient solution for heating a home is heating long burning cast iron stove, which, thanks to its design, is capable of giving off heat for a long time with a single stack of firewood. This effect is achieved due to the internal design of the furnace, which makes it possible to transfer active combustion to a slow smoldering mode, which is very has an economical effect on fuel consumption.

Compared with brick kilns The “cast iron” has small dimensions and takes up much less space.

The most powerful stove in terms of heating capacity, it provides heat even to two- and three-story houses. The operating principle is the same as that of brick kilns with a water circuit. The difference is that in this case the stove is cast iron and may have two water heating lines and electric heating.

Two heating lines mean that in addition to heating, the owner of such a stove will also receive water heating.

The latter function is very useful, since when the temperature of smoldering wood drops, electric heating turns on - a kind of protection against heat leaving the rooms.

The design of such stoves consists of a body, a burner, a firebox and a heating panel. Such stoves operate on liquefied and natural gas, are small in size, and can be connected to a gas main or operate independently from cylinders. It is better to heat small rooms with such stoves, up to about 50 cubic meters, since larger rooms are heated worse by such stoves.

The principle of operation of such stoves is similar to the principle of operation of brick stoves: the walls of the firebox heat up during fuel combustion, thereby transmitting the temperature to the rooms. The air necessary for the reaction is supplied through the ashpit, and the processed products are discharged through a chimney adjacent to the firebox.

Because gas ovens differ in structure and function from wood stoves, let's consider their advantages and disadvantages separately.

The disadvantages of such stoves include:

high cost - purchasing new equipment and installing it will cost owners a pretty penny;
heavy installation and connection - you definitely can’t do it without a specialist. But even a professional must check everything with great care, since the slightest mistake can easily endanger the lives of the home owners.

But that’s where the cons end, and now the pros:

environmental friendliness - unlike solid fuel stoves, gas stoves are less toxic;
Efficiency - in severe frosts such stoves will not let you down;
ease of operation - just connect the stove to gas and that’s it;
service life - 10-12 years of trouble-free operation are promised by the manufacturing companies. In reality, this period is much higher.

Let's summarize the pros and cons of furnace equipment.

The advantages include:

even when water and electricity are turned off, your home will always be warm, since the heat source will be an autonomous stove;
price criterion - the cost of stoves and their operation is quite affordable for many residents of different regions of our country;
economical fuel;

The price for 4-6 cubic meters of firewood is about 6-7 thousand rubles, and this volume is enough for six months in an average house.

ease of operation and maintenance - you do not need to call specialists to properly configure the operation of the furnace;
geography of operation - there is no need for additional communications for the stoves, so it can be installed in any house in any region.

Now let's talk about the cons:

long heating - the furnace spends a large amount of time heating its own walls and coolant;
low efficiency of many affordable brick stove designs due to the removal of the main heat through the chimney;
the large occupied volume of brick stoves: only if it is massive, such a stove heats several rooms;
constant supervision of the operation of the stove and lining of firewood, as a rule, in brick kilns;
not environmentally friendly - one brick oven emits particulate matter into the atmosphere like five old diesel engines.

In any case, the choice of stove depends on many factors, and if you have a large house, then a brick stove may be the best solution.

To support comfortable temperature indoors, they used stove heating for centuries. But even in this traditional method of heat supply, new modern technologies. Most often, stoves are used in places where the possibility of connecting to a gas pipeline is excluded. Although, even if gas is available, this type of heating can be used as a backup or additional option.

How to properly make stove heating so that it functions with maximum heat transfer?

An ordinary brick oven requires a firebox, an ash pan, and a smoke exhaust system. It is thanks to the last element that the room is heated, since gases pass through complex channels and give off their heat to the brick.

However, if the area of your home is too large, then this heating system will not be very effective. Therefore, today heat exchangers are often installed inside the furnace, which heat water, air or generate steam. Thanks to such a system, the efficiency of the heating structure increases significantly, which helps to increase the heating area in the building with the same amount of fuel used.

Types of heat supply using a brick kiln

After realizing the effectiveness of stove heating, you can work on the right choice way to heat a building. For this purpose, standard heat supply schemes from the stove are used, with the difference that the boiler will be replaced by a traditional brick structure.

Important! Before choosing the type of heating supply, you need to decide on the area that you are going to heat. This is the main selection criterion.

The fact is that using this criterion you can easily calculate the maximum cooling rate of the coolant as it passes along the transport route. Taking this factor into account, we can confidently talk about choosing the type of room heating using a stove. Therefore, most often they use:

water;
air;
steam heating.

And now in more detail.

Water heating method

The main element of such heating is the heat exchanger.

Its function is to transfer heat to the water in the system, which is formed as a result of the combustion of fuel: firewood, coal, briquettes, etc. Usually it is made by hand, since there is no uniform standard for combustion chambers. For this purpose, heat-resistant steel (thickness ≥ 2 mm) is used.

By design, such water furnaces are different. The main thing: maximum contact of the combustion zone fuel materials with heat exchanger. One of the most effective is U-shape heat exchanger.

Considering the specific heat capacity, others physical characteristics The most popular option is steel construction. Before welding, it is necessary to draw a drawing of the heat exchanger, taking into account the following conditions:

the dimensions of the fuel chamber must be identical to the internal dimensions of the device;
if the main is of an open type, then for its installation use pipes with a diameter of 40 mm, and if it is closed, then 32 mm;
the heat exchanger must be installed during the construction of the furnace. If you want to use the old stove structure, you will still have to disassemble it to be able to access the combustion chamber.

Advice! To ensure uniform heat distribution across all radiators, as well as to eliminate possible overheating of the coolant, it is best to install a circulation pump.

To ensure that wiring the batteries does not cause much hassle, it is best to place the stove with a water circuit against the wall. In addition, an essential element of such a heating system is an expansion tank.

If the heating circuit, tank, and other elements are welded to a high technical level, the circuit is always filled with water, and the circulation pump works flawlessly, then water system heating will not only be very effective, but also completely safe.

Air

If you make chimney channels in the stove with the maximum allowable area, then this option will provide high-quality heating of the room. It should immediately be noted that only a small room can be heated in this way.

An alternative is to install a heat exchanger, similar to a fireplace heating system. This requires a sealed structure in which the air will be heated through natural circulation, and the air itself will be supplied through special transportation channels.

Although, in practice, creating this type of heating is not entirely simple. This is due to the fact that a significant part of the top is intended for the chimney. And allow air to come into contact with carbon monoxide no way. Plus, efficient air heat supply is possible with a large volume chamber. In addition, the disadvantages of the design include:

ban on using an old stove;
the dimensions of the underwater channels, which must be at least 100 mm in diameter, which causes some difficulties in installing them in the furnace;
the need to install fans on the ducts: so that such heating is highly efficient.

Therefore, this type of heating is practiced very rarely.

Possible air channel layouts

Steam

To create steam heating from a stove, you need to stock up on special equipment, since the water must be heated above 100⁰C.

Typically, for such purposes they use a factory steam boiler, the temperature in which is controlled by a whole group of devices.

Hot steam generated in the heat exchanger is supplied to the pipeline by an air pump. Water flows automatically, depending on the drop in its pressure.

The main problem in bringing such a project to life is the presence of a very powerful combustion chamber. In addition, when creating a design for steam heating, it is necessary to ensure that all equipment is placed next to the heat exchanger, which is not so easy. Plus, it eliminates the possibility of using a mechanism that could be used to regulate the flow of coolant into the system.

Considering all the pros and cons, we can conclude that the optimal heating option using a stove is water heating, which remains the easiest to install, maintain, and the most efficient in terms of heat transfer.

Pros and cons of stove heating

Stove heating is different:

reliability;
financial accessibility;
efficiency, which is expressed in the ability to purchase solid fuels relatively cheaply;
ease of operation and maintenance. That is, even if small problems arise, you can solve them yourself, without involving specialists.

In addition, you can install stove heating in a house located in any area, since such heating device does not require special communications.

Although heating also has some negative aspects:

long heating time for the stove, coolant, and, at the same time, the room;
low efficiency of brick construction;
the building occupies a large area;
When the structure is functioning, it is necessary to keep an eye on it all the time, since fuel needs to be added to the firebox.

Advice! In order to increase efficiency, it is recommended that the channels be long, which will allow heat to linger longer inside the stove, and the chimney itself should be high.

Cast iron stove with a water circuit

There are also cast iron stoves equipped with a water circuit. As a rule, such designs are factory-made and are produced different power. They are designed for heating buildings with different areas. There are units that can heat a 2- and even 3-story building.

Today they are produced combined designs made of cast iron. This means that they are equipped electrically heated, which turns on automatically at the right moment when the temperature of coal, firewood or other fuel drops. Thanks to this combined function, the stove always maintains the heating system in the required temperature range.

The cast iron design can be double-circuit. This means that in addition to heat, the device provides water heating, which is very convenient.

Compliance with fire safety standards

Combustible structures must be reliably protected from stoves and chimneys. The presence of fire-resistant retreats and cuts helps in this.

The retreat is provided by fire protection structure, which can protect the combustible surface from hot stoves and chimneys.

That is, this is nothing more than a set of necessary measures, as well as a set of distances, maintaining which ensures the protection of flammable elements of the room.

Cutting is understood as a fire-prevention structure, due to which non-combustible spaces are formed that appear in cases of intersection of flammable elements of the room. For example, when a chimney passes through a ceiling or wall, it is necessary to insulate it in such a way as to protect the combustible part of the structure from possible ignition.

use fireproof materials;
adhere to the standards for the required distances from the stove to combustible structures of the house;
reliably thermally insulate the stove surface from nearby walls, interfloor ceilings, etc.;
apply shielding. This means that it is necessary to use fireproof partitions and screens to protect parts of the house from intense infrared radiation;

Important! The screen will help if other protection methods are used in parallel in the form of ventilated gaps, distances, and heat dissipation.

use the heat dissipation method. The essence of the method: it is necessary to install a vertical steel plate inside the cutting, which will help “take” part of the heat onto itself and, thus, reduce its internal temperature. There are cases when, after the end of the fire, ignition occurs, for example, wooden structure, since all the heat accumulated inside the alteration, and there was no steel plate;
provide the structure with ventilated gaps, which will help reduce temperature indicators.

Today, stove heating is still relevant. If you can build a stove, then the house will be warm, regardless of the weather outside. You just have to stock up on fuel. That's all. Even those owners who use gas for heating do not part with brick or cast iron construction. After all, a stove, especially a wood stove, emits not only heat, but also creates a special atmosphere and comfort in the whole house, which we sometimes lack.

A brick oven is a traditional heating unit, superior in basic characteristics to any boilers and other types of heating equipment. A properly equipped brick oven is characterized by the highest levels of practicality, reliability and performance. At the same time, the brick oven is absolutely unpretentious in maintenance.

There are several types of stoves. Regardless of the characteristics of the selected unit, its construction will be carried out approximately according to the same scheme. At the same time, you can cope with the construction of a brick oven on your own.

The most popular modifications of brick kilns are:

Furnaces can also vary in shape. For example, in private homes, stoves most often built are round, rectangular, and square in shape. The available variety of shapes and designs allows the owner to choose the most optimal design option for a room of any size, configuration and with any interior.

Regardless of the chosen modification, size, shape of the stove and the fuel used, the structure must be erected and equipped in compliance with fire safety requirements. The finished stove will have quite an impressive weight, which imposes a number of requirements on the choice of location for the construction of the stove and the arrangement of the base for its placement.

Place for the furnace

Choose the optimal location heating stove. For example, a stove installed in the center of the room will distribute heat as efficiently and evenly as possible. However, such placement of the stove is not always convenient.

If the stove structure is placed against the wall (this option is the most popular and frequently used), cold will flow across the floor of the house.

Select in advance the location of the combustion chamber door. Design the stove so that in the future you do not have to carry fuel throughout the room, spreading dirt around the room.

The best option is to install a firebox in a room that is rarely visited.

Calculate the design of the foundation in such a way that it is able to withstand the load not only of the furnace itself, but also of the smoke exhaust structure, which is also strongly recommended to be built of brick.

Basic design elements of a heating furnace

All existing heating stoves have approximately the same and fairly simple design. However, despite their simplicity, stove units are capable of fully solving the problems associated with heating residential premises.

The main components of a heating stove are the fuel compartment and the smoke exhaust structure. If a heating and cooking stove is being considered, the design must include a stove or oven. At the owner's request, his stove can be supplemented with a tank for heating hot water.

The most important part of any heating stove. Calculate the volume of the firebox in accordance with the area of the heated space, the characteristics of the fuel used, etc. To make a stove firebox, use high-quality fire-resistant bricks. The walls of the firebox should be half a brick thick.

Ash pan

This compartment is designed to collect waste from the furnace. Oxygen is also supplied to the combustible fuel through the ash chamber.

The ash pan is located below the grate and is equipped with an individual door.

The height of the firebox is usually 3 bricks.

Chimney

A very important component of any oven. Gases are removed through the chimney. At the same time, the design provides additional heating of the room.

If possible, the chimney should be designed so that it is as straight as possible. Any bends will negatively affect the efficiency of the heating stove.

Mortar for laying out a heating furnace

In order for the operation of your heating stove to be as efficient, reliable and safe as possible, and for the structure itself to last as long as possible, you must properly prepare the masonry mortar.

Display heating stoves performed using a viscous solution prepared on the basis of clay and sifted sand.

To obtain such a solution, you need to fill the clay with normal humidity with water and soak it thoroughly. Pass the mixture through a sieve and stir until smooth. Then add sand to the mixture in the amount necessary to obtain a solution with the required plasticity and viscosity.

Pay due attention to preparing the mortar for masonry. The quality of the finished furnace unit, its main characteristics and service life depend on the correctness of its preparation.

Guide to DIY heating stove installation

Start laying 1-1.5 months after laying its foundation. It is during this period that the concrete will gain the required strength, and the finished furnace unit will serve as long as possible, reliably and efficiently without deteriorating its main characteristics.

The process of laying the Radonezh stove

First step. Cut a hole in the wall for the stove. Drive reinforcing dowels into the ends of the beam (if the wall is made of this material).

Second step. Pour the foundation.

Start laying 1-1.5 months after laying the foundation. It is during this period that the concrete will gain the required strength.

Third step. Cover the dried foundation with waterproofing material.

Fourth step. Lay out the first row of the oven. Check the evenness of the masonry using a level. Make seams no wider than 3 mm.

Continue laying the stove in accordance with the order.

The grate and ash pit are installed in the combustion chamber. The width of the furnace vent must be sufficient to allow the required amount of air to flow to the loaded fuel during operation of the heating unit.

Lay out the furnace combustion chamber and sew the channels. Trim off excess mortar.

When laying the 26th row, make a 20 mm overlap on each side.

Complete the laying of the main part of the stove in order and begin laying out the chimney.

Continue installing the chimney in accordance with the previously prepared project.

Dry the finished oven. To save time, install a fan in the combustion chamber.

After the masonry has dried, make several test runs. Don't make the first fires too intense.

If everything is done in accordance with the instructions, order and basic requirements, after an average of 30-40 minutes, the side of the stove facing the room will heat up. After about 1.5 hours, the unit will warm up evenly and begin to fully heat the room.

Building a heating stove with your own hands is a rather complex and lengthy process, but if you wish, you can cope with such an event. You just need to follow proven technology, use only high-quality building materials and adhere to the chosen masonry scheme in everything.

As a result, the heating unit will serve as long as possible, reliably and efficiently, and you will additionally save on arranging the heating system for your home by refusing the services of third-party stove makers and doing everything yourself.

Good luck!

How to properly make stove heating. Heating stoves: choosing the right stove for heating your home. Stove heating in a private house: pros and cons

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Brief overview of industrially produced furnaces with a water circuit for heating

Fireplace insert with water circuit "Aquarius"

Prices for the model range of fireplace inserts with a water circuit "Aquarius"

Solid fuel heating boiler "Armada 20 »

Prices for solid fuel heating boilers "Armada"

Video: Review of furnaces with a water circuit

Water circuit for heating in a brick oven

Types of heat exchangers and their locations in a brick kiln

What is the heat exchanger made of?

Calculation of the power and dimensions of the furnace heat exchanger

Installation of a water circuit in a brick oven

Rules for operating a furnace with a water circuit

Construction of a heating and cooking furnace with a water circuit with your own hands

List necessary materials and instruments

Work order

The order of laying a furnace with a water circuit

Video: Heating and cooking oven with a water circuit

Pitfalls of furnace water circuits

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Conclusion

How does the stove work

Which stoves are suitable for heating a home?

Advantages and disadvantages of heating with a stove

How to make stove heating in a private house

Water stove heating

Air stove heating

Steam stove heating

How to increase stove efficiency

Stove in the house: types, pros, cons

Wood-burning stove for heating a house

How to properly make stove heating so that it functions with maximum heat transfer?

Types of heat supply using a brick kiln

Water heating method

Air

Steam

Pros and cons of stove heating

Cast iron stove with a water circuit

Compliance with fire safety standards

Place for the furnace

Basic design elements of a heating furnace

Ash pan

Chimney

Mortar for laying out a heating furnace

Guide to DIY heating stove installation

The process of laying the Radonezh stove

Video - Do-it-yourself heating stoves

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