DIY Advanced Rocket Stove. Rocket stove: history, misconceptions, operating principle, diagrams, implementation, materials. Lining the fuel structure from the inside

Here you will learn:

Not every person knows such a simple heating device as a rocket stove. Meanwhile, it has few equals in simplicity and effectiveness. It cannot be said that it has the best characteristics, but it also has few disadvantages. There are many varieties of these furnaces, differing in design and purpose. We'll look at them in more detail as part of our review.

Design and principle of operation

Rocket furnaces have virtually nothing to do with the design of rocket engines or jet turbines. On the contrary, they are extremely simple in design, in contrast to the above devices. The similarity is noticeable only in the quietly noisy flame and high combustion temperature - all this is observed after the stove reaches operating mode.

Let's consider the design of rocket furnaces - they consist of the following elements:

Firebox – a vertical or horizontal section in which firewood is burned;
Combustion chamber (also known as a flame tube, riser) – here the process of fuel combustion occurs, releasing a large amount of heat;
Blower - necessary for the correct operation of the stove and the start of the combustion process of pyrolysis gases;
Thermal insulation – envelops the vertical part, forming a drum together with the body;
Bed – used for its intended purpose;
Chimney - removes combustion products into the atmosphere, creating draft;
Dish rack – ensures unhindered heat escape.

Depending on the type of rocket stove, certain elements may be missing.

Rocket stoves with vertical fireboxes (fuel bunkers) and blowers are the most efficient and convenient - large volumes of fuel are placed here, which ensures long-term combustion.

The most important part of the rocket furnace is the vertical drum. It is here that the highest temperature is observed, as flames burst out here. In order for it to start working, it must be thoroughly warmed up. Without this, the combustion process will be weak. To warm up, paper, cardboard, small wood chips or thin branches are placed in the firebox. As soon as the system warms up, the flame in the drum will begin to burn out with a humming sound, which is a sign that it has reached operating mode.

A rocket (jet) stove without a ash burns wood directly. It is simpler, but less effective. The model with a blower supplies secondary air to the base of the riser, which causes intense combustion of flammable pyrolysis gases. This increases the efficiency of the unit.

The fireboxes in rocket stoves are located horizontally or vertically (at any angle). Horizontal fireboxes are not very convenient, since the firewood in them has to be moved to the combustion zone manually, independently. Vertical combustion chambers are more convenient - we load fuel into them and go about our business. As the logs burn, they will fall down, independently moving towards the combustion zone.

Types of rocket stoves

In this section we will look at the most common types of rocket stoves used in field and stationary conditions.

Simple metal stoves

The simplest wood-burning jet stove is made from an L-shaped piece of large-diameter metal pipe. The horizontal part is short, it represents the firebox. The combustion chamber is located in the vertical part of the pipe, where wood actively burns. A small metal plate is often welded into the horizontal section, forming a blower. After warming up, the rocket furnace enters operating mode, and a flame bursts out of its vertical section (flame tube).

Such rocket stoves are used for cooking food in camping or outdoor conditions - due to their small area, they produce little heat, and the vast majority of the thermal energy is lost through the fire tube. Kettles, frying pans and pots are placed on this pipe so that the raging flame ensures their heating. To maintain traction, there are stands in the upper part of the pipe, on which the dishes are placed - combustion products can freely come out.

In order for a metal rocket furnace made from an L-shaped piece of pipe to be more efficient, it is equipped with a metal casing made from old barrel. A blower can be seen at the bottom of the barrel, and a fire tube peeks out from the top. If necessary, the internal volume is filled with insulation, for example, ash - it does not burn and retains heat well.

Simple brick ovens

A small-sized brick rocket stove is another simplest option for building a rocket stove with your own hands. Its assembly does not require cement mortar; it is enough to stack the bricks on top of each other to get a convenient brick outdoor unit for cooking at your disposal. In the section on self-assembly of rocket stoves, we will invite you to familiarize yourself with the simplest procedure for self-assembly.

A rocket stove, made with your own hands from brick, can be used to heat households. In this case, a simple arrangement is not enough - you will have to build a stationary version using a special cement mortar. There are many orders for this, you just have to choose suitable option. By the way, some versions of such furnaces include a water circuit.

Advantage of brick rocket kilns:

Simple design;
Long-term heat retention;
The ability to create a comfortable warm bed.

Some models are made combined, using both steel and bricks.

Sophisticated rocket stoves

A jet stove for heating households or for a bath is characterized by increased complexity. The main link here is still the riser (fire tube), enclosed in a metal casing. Its upper part can be used for cooking, forming a kind of cooking surface. The firebox is made large to accommodate an increased amount of solid fuel. The starting materials are metal, bricks and clay.

There are projects for wood-burning rocket stoves that include additional modules. Their construction schemes include small boilers for preparing hot water, hobs, water jackets and even small ovens. Such stoves will help heat households and create comfortable conditions for human habitation.

A rocket boiler with a water jacket, created on the basis of a wood-burning stove, will help warm up a multi-room building. It is equipped with a water circuit for heating the coolant. Additional convenience is created by samples with beds - these beds are created on the basis of thermal channels between the flame and chimney pipes.

Types of stoves for different operating conditions

A rocket stove with a water circuit, brick or metal, can replace a boiler. The heat exchanger here is arranged in the upper part of the flame tube in the form of a surrounding water jacket. There are jumpers inside the jacket for more efficient heat transfer to the coolant. The design is extremely simple; it can heat households up to several tens of square meters.

A rocket stove for the garage can be made from an old pot-bellied gas cylinder or barrel. To do this, two holes are made in the selected container - one in the top lid and the other on the side surface. An L-shaped pipe is inserted inside. Having a little experience working with a welding machine, all work will take you a maximum of half an hour.

You can also make a stove as described above missile type from sections of square and metal pipe according to the given drawing.

Also suitable for heating a garage is the heating rocket stove “Ognivo – Khozyain”. This is a store-bought model made from aluminum corrugated pipe and ordinary sheet iron. It works in approximately the same way and allows you to warm a garage of up to 30 square meters. m.

There are no drawings of it in the public domain yet, so you can try to assemble the “Ognivo” stove with your own hands based on its photograph. You can also buy it on the manufacturer's website.

We have already said that to heat large households you will need a rocket stove long burning with water circuit. A small one-room household can be heated with a simpler stove and a stove bench - this way you will save space on furniture. It consists of the following nodes:

Firebox with vertical loading - logs are placed in it;
Afterburner is a horizontal section in front of the riser (flame tube), where pyrolysis combustion occurs;
A riser with a hob is a vertical section with a metal body that transfers heat into the room;
Horizontal channels - they heat the stove bench, after which the combustion products are sent into the chimney.

A rocket stove for heating a one-room house is coated with clay to create a flat and comfortable bed - here you can lay a mattress or a small blanket.

For camping use, the simplest rocket-type stoves made of metal pipes are used. They are compact, easy to light and extinguish, cool quickly and allow you to quickly prepare dinner at outdoors. The main thing is not to overdo it with the amount of fuel loaded, so as not to burn the food with a high-temperature flame.

How to increase the efficiency of the stove

Long-burning jet stoves can be made even more efficient with a little modification. If the riser (fire pipe) is covered with a metal casing, weld vertically positioned pipes of small diameter to the outer surface - they form a convector that effectively warms the air in the rooms. This modification method is suitable for metal units used for heating technical premises (for example, garages).

Any metal rocket stove can be made more efficient by lining it with brick or natural stone. The masonry will retain heat and slowly release it into the room. At the same time, it will allow you to get rid of unbearable heat if the heating is too intense.

Let's start with the simplest brick sample, intended for cooking. Such a stove can be quickly assembled in your yard without clay mortar, and disassembled after use. It is also possible to assemble a stationary version - for those who like to cook over an open fire. The picture below shows a drawing of the stove, or rather, its order. There are only five rows here.

The first row is the base, which includes six bricks. The second row forms the firebox, and the next three rows form the chimney riser. In the first and second rows, halves of bricks are used so that the stove is rectangular, without protruding elements.

Immediately after assembly, you can start kindling - cook any dishes over the fire in cast iron cauldrons and frying pans, heat kettles and pots with water.

Large rocket stove with bench

The main advantage of the rocket modification over the Russian stove is its compactness. Even when equipped with a bed, it will please you with its small size. By making it out of brick, you will have at your disposal an effective source of heat with a comfortable bed - household members will fight for the right to occupy this warm place.

The first row forms the base of our rocket stove. It consists of 62 bricks laid according to the pattern shown in the figure. The second row forms channels for heating the bed - they run along its entire length. Cast iron doors are also installed here, secured with metal wire - it is held between the rows. The number of bricks used is 44 pcs. The same amount will be required for the third row, which completely follows the contour of the second. The fourth row completely covers the channels that heat the bed. But here a vertical smoke channel and a firebox are already beginning to form - the row includes 59 bricks.

Another 60 is needed for the fifth row. The bench has already been formed, all that remains is to finish off the chimney channel and build the hob. The sixth row, which includes 17 bricks, is responsible for this. Another 18 are needed for the seventh row, 14 for the eighth.

The ninth and tenth row will require 14 bricks, the eleventh – 13.

Row No. 12 is our key row - the chimney pipe will begin from here. Also from here begins a hole through which the air rising to the hob will fall down to the stove bench - 11 bricks are required (this is the top of the riser). In row No. 13 this process is completed, 10 bricks are spent on it. Now we lay an asbestos pad, which is covered with a piece of thick sheet steel - this will be the hob.

Rows No. 14 and No. 15 require 5 bricks each; they cover the chimney channel and form a low wall between the hob and the stove bench.

In a similar way, you can assemble a long-burning rocket boiler by finding a suitable arrangement. Some schemes involve the use of metal components.

DIY long-burning rocket stove: drawings, diagrams

What is a solid rocket stove and how does it work? In this review, we study the types of rocket (jet) stoves and try to assemble them with our own hands.

Do-it-yourself long-burning rocket stove

This device, despite our brave space achievements, is still unknown to few people in our country. And for sure, only a few are interested in how to make a rocket stove with their own hands, because they do not understand the principle of its operation.

Photo 1 Rocket stove in the interior

Principle of operation

Oddly enough, the name “rocket stove” itself has nothing to do with space or rockets themselves. The only analogy that can remotely remind us of this is a jet of flame rising upward in mobile installations.

The design feature of the furnace is the presence of a hood into which flue gases enter and where the final combustion of the sludge occurs. Under the hood, the temperature rises to 1000 0 C within the first 2 hours, as a result of which everything burns without sediment, and the exhaust is formed only in the form of steam and carbon. In this case, gases circulate freely through the channels without forced draft, which is usually created by a chimney pipe.

This design allows the stove to be used not only for heating the room, but also for heating food or water (on the hood). If the chimney is run through a certain area of the room, right up to the lounger, it will also heat up.

Photo 2 Rocket stove in the interior

Among the main advantages of rocket stoves are the following:

high efficiency - 85%;
very fast heating of the room - 50 sq.m. in 45-60 minutes;
absence of soot and, as a result, soot deposits - at temperatures above 1000 degrees, everything burns without a trace;
the ability to use any solid fuel;
minimum consumption - at the same temperature and burning duration, a rocket stove consumes 4-5 times less fuel than a conventional stove.

The simplest rocket works according to the direct combustion formula - these are mobile structures that can be easily assembled in field conditions literally from scrap materials and can also be easily dismantled.

The simplest design from a barrel or gas cylinder

Photo 3 Traveling rocket stove

For fuel, a steel plate is welded to the bottom, at the bottom of which a hole is cut for air intake.

You can use any straight cylindrical container for manufacturing - the drawing of a rocket furnace shows how the direct combustion process occurs.

Photo 4 Schematic of a traveling rocket

Brick rocket stove in 20 minutes

If you have 20-30 bricks on hand, you can make a simple rocket stove with your own hands in just a few minutes. Moreover, no adhesives are needed for masonry.

Lay out a brick, as shown in the photo, for a vertical combustion chamber. In this case, the dishes are placed on the hood in such a way as not to interfere with the movement of released gases

Do-it-yourself rocket-type brick oven:

Photo 5 Rocket stove made of 20 bricks

For such a design to work well, a warm pipe is needed. This term among stove makers means a preliminary run of wood chips and paper so that the pipe warms up. There will be stagnation of gas in a cold pipe, which will make heating difficult. And if the pipe is warm, then when the wood is ignited, a powerful draft appears in the channel.

For reference. The above simplest designs made from a gas cylinder or pipe have a significant drawback - vertical loading of firewood. Each time you have to move the wood into the chamber when it burns out and only then add it. Stationary coal-fired or long-burning rocket stoves already have a vertical stack, which simplifies operation many times over.

Long-burning rocket stove

Photo 6 Design of a stationary rocket furnace

DIY rocket jet stove diagram

In order to make such a unit with your own hands, you need to decide on the dimensions and structural elements.

How the rocket works:

As can be seen from the drawing, the diameter of the cap (D), which covers the top of the pipe, and its cross section (S) are taken as the basis.

Based on these indicators, the dimensions of the rocket furnace are calculated:

the height of the drum is 2 of its diameter;
the height of the clay coating is 2/3 of the height;
coating thickness - 1/3 of the diameter;
cross-sectional area of the pipe - 7% of its cross-section;
blower area - 1/2 of the pipe section;
the flame tube horizontally and vertically must be the same;
ash pan volume - 4-6% of the drum height;
The cross-sectional area of the external chimney is the double cross-section of the pipe.
the thickness of the insulating layer (adobe cushion) under the external chimney is 60 mm;
the thickness of the coating of the stove bench is 1/4 of the diameter of the drum;
external pipe height - 4000 mm;
The length of the flue directly depends on the diameter of the drum. If for its manufacture we took a metal container with a diameter of 50-60 cm and a volume of 200 liters, then the length of the flue pipe will be at least 6 meters. If the diameter is half as large, then the bed should be made up to 4 meters.

If you are making a stationary rocket stove with your own hands, be sure to pay attention to the lining of the top of the pipe. This is necessary to isolate the roaster from the walls of the oven to prevent overheating of the walls. Fireclay bricks can be used for lining.

Photos of examples of original performance

It is noteworthy that not only the walls need protection, but also the lining itself. In order to protect it from flammable gases, you can create a metal sheathing and fill it with river sand. For this purpose, you can use any available metal object - a barrel, a bucket, galvanized steel.

Sand is poured into the bucket layer by layer, with each layer being generously watered for proper compaction. When you have filled the protection to the top with sand, leave it to dry for 7-10 days.

The lining of the brazier is done much faster - fireclay bricks are laid on the clay mortar, and the space between the latter and the wall will also have to be filled with sand in layers - with water and time for drying.

Pipe lining diagram

All further work on the installation of a jet-type rocket furnace continues only after not only the lining, but also the clay protection, which is applied over the top cut, has dried.

Before making a stationary structure, practice on a traveling sample. After the first experience it will become clear even if you have not read the books on rocket stoves.

Disadvantages of the heating device

This device is often used to heat food or water - indeed, a huge amount of heat, a hot cap, why not use this idea? However, connecting a water circuit in order to heat the entire house and not a room is impossible. The design is so simple that any intervention, including a coil, will disrupt the progress of work.
Surprisingly, such a lightweight mobile heating device is completely unsuitable for either a bathhouse or a garage. Even with its high efficiency, the camping unit will not heat the air in the steam room to the required minimum. And in a garage or warehouse it is not recommended to use devices with direct open fire.

Assembly diagram of a portable rocket stove

In this article we will give an example of a camp installation, which does not require any masonry or finishing materials.

2 buckets;
stainless steel pipe;
river sand or crushed stone for lining.

Step 1. Cut a hole in the side of one of the buckets along the diameter of the pipe at a height of 5 cm from the bottom. The height should be enough to pour crushed stone or sand into the bucket.

Step 2. Divide the pipe into 2 parts - a short loading section and a pancake elbow-chimney.

Step 2. Insert the pipe into the hole in the bucket.

Step 4. By analogy with step 1, cut a hole in the bucket, but directly in the bottom. The diameter of the hole corresponds to the diameter of the pipe. Insert the pipe.

Step 5. Pour sand or gravel into a bucket, which will act as a heat accumulator for the fire tube.

Step 6. Making legs or stand. For this purpose, ordinary reinforcement is suitable, which is bent under pressure and the base is cut out.

Rocket stove from a gas cylinder

This is a complicated, improved version, for the manufacture of which you will need an already used gas cylinder and a 4 mm rectangular pipe.

The scheme remains exactly the same with the only exception that flammable gases are discharged from the side through the hole, and not from above, as happens with field samples.

If there is a need to cook food or heat it, the upper part of the cylinder with the tap is cut off, and a flat plate is welded on top.

Do-it-yourself long-burning rocket stove made of brick or gas cylinder: drawings, photos and video instructions

We will tell you how to make a rocket stove with your own hands, and what you need for this. This device, despite our brave space achievements, is still very little known in our country, although its effectiveness is beyond doubt.

How to make a rocket stove with your own hands

Rocket stove: diagram and photo of production.

The design of the rocket stove is made in such a way that, using direct combustion, it creates a strong flame from a small amount of fuel. The combustion process occurs in a vertical pipe where the effect of direct combustion of the flame is ultimately created.

Rocket stove diagram.

The figure shows a diagram of a rocket-type furnace.

The stove consists of a vertical pipe and a side firebox placed at an angle of 45 degrees; the firebox located at this angle greatly facilitates the stacking of firewood.

DIY rocket stove.

To make a rocket-type furnace, you will need two sections of profile pipe:

For the firebox, a pipe with a cross-section of 160 x 160 mm is 300 mm long.

For the chimney, a pipe with a cross-section of 120 x 120 mm is 500 mm long.

You will also need metal sheets 5 mm thick and the following dimensions:

Several metal rods for making grate bars.

The manufacturing process of a rocket stove is as follows. The firebox and chimney of the stove are cut out from the profile pipes using a grinder.

The chimney and firebox are welded together at an angle of 45 degrees.

At the bottom of the firebox, you need to weld the grates and a plate separating the firebox and the ash pan. Without grates, coals will quickly clog the firebox and reduce draft.

A damper must be provided in the firebox; by adjusting the damper, you can control the intensity of the flame burning in the furnace.

The final stage: paint the rocket stove with heat-resistant paint.

Advantages and disadvantages of a rocket stove.

A rocket-type furnace has its advantages:

Minimum fuel consumption, the stove can operate on almost any fuel, optimal use of wood - firewood, branches, small chips.
Strong flame and fast heating, a pot with 3 liters of water boils in 15 - 20 minutes.
Simplicity of design, compact size.

Disadvantages of a rocket type furnace:

The weight of the stove is more than 10 kg, so it’s difficult to call this stove a camp stove, unless you transport it in a car.
It is not practical to use a jet stove for heating rooms; you often need to add firewood to the stove and most of the heat goes into the chimney; the stove is primarily intended for instant cooking food, heating water and other needs.
When burning, the stove makes a characteristic “reactive” sound.

Where is a rocket-type stove useful? The stove can be used in places where it is not possible to light an open fire or there is not enough fuel for a fire. By the way, the stove will be useful if you need to quickly cook food, for example, in the country or in nature.

Another DIY rocket stove option.

DIY rocket stove: drawings, photos, videos

Homemade rocket stove: drawings and photos of production. Rocket stove is used for fast cooking with minimum quantity fuel.

DIY rocket stove Robinson

Robinson camping stove

Rocket stoves are attractive due to their simplicity of design and cost-effectiveness. But, behind the apparent simplicity, there is an exact calculation. It is very undesirable to deviate in size: everything will stop working altogether or fuel combustion will be extremely inefficient.

General principles

The portable portable stove "Robinson" was made on the basis of a heating rocket stove. The same principle is applied: firewood burns in the bunker-fuel compartment, the fire, due to the air flow, enters the combustion zone - a horizontal section of the pipe and partially rises up the smoke tube. First, while the stove is not heated up, all the energy is spent on heating the chimney. Then, when it warms up, the gases from high temperatures ignite again, and secondary combustion of the gases occurs. Modern gas-generating pyrolysis boilers are designed according to the same principle.

How does a rocket stove work?

In the Robinson oven, everything is a little simpler: we don’t need to heat the room. Its main task is to heat water and cook food. But the principles remain the same: the fire must heat the chimney, and its length must be enough to burn off the gases. Therefore, for normal performance, adhere to the following proportions:

The length of the chimney must be at least 2 times the length of the horizontal (sloping) section.
The height of the fuel compartment is approximately equal to the length of the horizontal section. Therefore, in the Robinson stove, the firebox is made at an angle of 45°, although the fuel compartment can be located at an angle of 90°, but it is not very convenient to place fuel this way.
The cross-section of the chimney should not be smaller than the size of the firebox.

Construction of the Robinson furnace: drawings and dimensions

This is what a Robinson camp stove looks like

In the original, “Robinson” is welded from a 150*100 mm profile pipe. Homemade similar stoves are made from pipes of similar diameter. Sometimes the fuel compartment is made from a piece of profile pipe, and the chimney is made from a round one. It is important that the cross-section of the chimney is no less than that of the firebox, otherwise backdraft may occur.

Below we will lay out drawings of the Robinson rocket stove indicating the most common sizes: a profile pipe 150*150 mm, a firebox 30 cm long, a chimney of at least 60 cm. In general, with this firebox size it can be up to 90 cm, but keeping in mind that this after all hiking option, indicate the minimum possible length.

Drawing of a Robinson rocket stove for making your own drawings

The legs are made of threaded rod and are installed on site and tightened with nuts. This option is the most compact, but unscrewing/screwing legs to smoked iron is not the best thing. Alternative support options: steel sheet welded to the bottom or stationary legs. They do not need to be screwed, but they take up more space in the trunk.

In the case of the original Robinson stove, it does not have a combustion air channel and there is no combustion control lid. In homemade ones there is an improvement: a plate ending in a grate is welded at the bottom of the fuel compartment. The fuel is placed on this plate. The gap at the bottom allows oxygen to be supplied directly to the combustion zone. To regulate the combustion intensity, a flap cover is welded to the fuel compartment. It is slightly wider in size than the fuel compartment (in the drawing it is 156.4 mm with a firebox width of 140 mm). It should not block it completely - otherwise the fire will go out. They make it smaller in size than the firebox or build in a slide valve.

Drawing of a firebox for a Robinson stove with an ash pan and a ash pan

Craftsmen make small camping rocket stoves from various pieces of metal. In the photo below you see what happened - a finished Robinson stove, made by hand by a craftsman from Penza. Three small sections of 160*160 mm profile pipe were used, from which the combustion chamber was welded. Its total length was 40 cm. A single piece of pipe 120*120 mm, 60 cm long, was used for the chimney. In the firebox the ash pan is welded from sheet metal 8 mm and steel bar 12 mm. Instead of legs, a metal plate is welded: thickness 8 mm, dimensions 180*350 mm.

This is a finished Robinson stove and what the master welded it from with his own hands (To enlarge the size of the picture, click on it with the left mouse button)

According to the author: a heated stove burns well, does not smoke and is not capricious. Just before loading with “serious” fuel: branches and wood chips, it needs to be heated with paper, hay, dry grass or very thin branches. When the pipe warms up, you can lay in thicker firewood.

Difficulties with lighting a cold stove are generally typical for rocket fireboxes. In this case, we also have a narrowed chimney, which makes kindling more problematic.

The second version of a homemade rocket-type camping stove is made from two profile pipes: 160*160 mm 30 cm long for the firebox and 120*120 mm 60 cm long for the chimney (it’s better to take a section no smaller - the draft will be better). 5 mm steel is used for the ash pan, door and stand. The ash pan is cut to half the length of the firebox, and reinforcement rods of 12 mm diameter are welded to the plate. The lid does not reach the ash pan plate by about 2 cm; instead of a handle, a large diameter nut is used. Base plate dimensions 20*30 cm.

Materials and process for making a Robinson stove with your own hands (To enlarge the size of the picture, click on it with the left mouse button)

To make it convenient to place the dishes and to give the smoke a place to escape, CV joint balls are welded at the corners of the pipe. This option turned out to be more convenient than the one proposed in the original (three rings welded together) - on such a stove you can place dishes with a round bottom - a cauldron, for example. Hunters and fishermen often have these cookware rather than flat-bottomed pans. The kettle also works great: it boils three liters of water in 20 minutes. There is enough heat to fry meat and for other cooking tasks.

Robinson portable stove: tests in the garage and on a three-day hunt (To enlarge the size of the picture, click on it with the left mouse button)

DIY Robinson stove: the principle of a rocket stove and its manufacture

Do you need a small, portable stove that you can use to cook your meals? Pay attention to the Robinson rocket stove. It is made with your own hands from two pieces of profile pipe.

If you plan to make a rocket stove from a gas cylinder, then you don’t have to be afraid of difficulties. The steps to create equipment from such construction raw materials are quite simple:

the upper part is cut off from a cylinder with a volume of 50 liters in order to build a kind of cap;
The balloon is cut off at the top and bottom
Based on the instructions in the drawing, all parts of the product are welded to each other, that is, a gas cylinder, a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm (future chimney), a pipe with a diameter of 7 cm (internal channel) and another pipe with a diameter of 15 cm (fuel firebox);
Dimensions in mm
the space between the two pipes is filled with a material that retains heat, for example, sand, which has been thoroughly calcined, that is, cleared of organic substances;
To give the structure stability, the legs are welded.

To build a rocket stove with a stove bench, which involves the use of bricks, you need to proceed differently:

The area for arranging the firebox is deepened by removing 10 cm of soil. The combustion chamber is formed from fireclay bricks. Formwork is created along the contour of the structure being manufactured. To make the base strong, it is recommended to lay reinforcement mesh or metal rods in it;
The platform will harden in about two days
The structure is filled with liquid concrete. Then they wait for the solution to harden and finish the work. The bricks are laid in a continuous line, creating a platform for the stove. After this, the walls of the structure are formed, placing several rows of brick blocks;
The lower channel of the structure is constructed, with one line of bricks laid across to block the combustion chamber. The blocks are placed, leaving the vertical channel and the firebox opening open;
Two sectors of the furnace at this stage of construction should be open
Find the body from the old boiler and cut off the top and bottom covers on it. A flange is installed at the bottom of the resulting pipe through which a horizontal heat exchanger will pass. The parts must be connected to each other with a continuous weld;
Work requires accuracy
An outlet pipe is inserted into the barrel, after which they take a metal brush and scrape off the rust from the walls of the container. The cleaned barrel is treated with a primer, and a little later with paint that is resistant to high temperatures;
The horizontal chimney is connected by welding to the side outlet - the future ash pit. To facilitate its cleaning, a sealed flange is installed;
The fire tube is laid out from refractory bricks. At the same time, a channel 18 cm high and wide is formed inside the structure. While doing this, they constantly use building level, which allows you to control the verticality of the product;
The height of the pipe is determined in advance
The flame tube is covered protective casing, and the resulting gaps are sealed with perlite. The lower area of the vertical channel is sealed with raw clay, the function of which is to prevent the thermal insulation material from spilling onto the floor;
From the boiler, on which the top and bottom have been cut off, a fuel tank is formed. A handle must be welded to it;
To improve the appearance, the structure is treated with adobe putty, consisting of sawdust and raw clay. The first component of the composition serves in the same way as crushed stone in concrete, that is, it prevents cracking of the furnace walls. It is recommended to apply adobe putty over perlite backfill;
They create the facade of the stove, for which the stove contour is laid out from stone, bricks, adobe and sand. The back side of the structure is filled with crushed stone, and the front side with adobe mixture, making the surface perfectly flat;
A metal barrel casing is placed on the previously created base. The lower pipe of the container is directed towards the bed. The bottom of the structure is treated with raw clay, which will ensure its tightness;
A channel made of corrugated pipe is connected to the combustion chamber. It will serve as a link between the firebox and the outside atmosphere;
At this stage the oven looks almost finished
A test firing of the stove is carried out, watching how the gases are removed from the horizontal chimney. After this, the heat exchanger pipes are connected to the lower pipe installed on a red brick platform;
The stove is equipped with a smoke exhaust pipe. The junction of the chimney and the heat generator is sealed with fire-resistant coating and asbestos cord;
Using clay and adobe, the bed is given the required form. Only the horizontal section of the structure is left unsealed, which will then be used during cooking.
The oven functions as a whole system

Jet device with a warm bed

One of the variations of such heating units is a rocket stove with a sleeping place. It is based on the same principle of pyrolysis. The difference lies in the design of the heat exchanger itself. The long channels of the device are made of non-flammable materials and are interconnected. This structure is placed under the plane of the bed.

The ledge itself is a surface made of clay, stone or brick, inside which hot air circulates through the channels of the heat exchanger. During work jet furnace the gas obtained by pyrolysis moves through pipes under the stove bench, gives off heat and is discharged through a chimney located outside. Its height reaches 3000-3500 mm.

The stove structure with a firebox is located near one of the edges of the stove bench. Often there is also a cooking surface, with which a homemade rocket stove can also be used for cooking.

The stone or clay surface of the couch is covered with a wooden flooring or a mat made of bamboo or straw. This is necessary for the comfort of the user, because the bed serves as a sleeping place at night, and as a seat during the day. The peoples of Asia traditionally used the rocket stove for eating, equipping the stove with a special low table.

It is important to note that this type furnace device It uses fuel resources quite economically. An armful of medium-thick dry branches is enough to heat the unit.

Due to the fact that a brick rocket stove retains heat for a long time, by heating it once in the evening, you can enjoy the created comfort all night long, without worrying about adding fuel again.

The easiest way is to make a small portable stove with your own hands - the Robinson rocket, whose drawing is presented below. You will need cutting profile pipes, metal for legs and stands, as well as skills in carrying out welding work. Moreover, compliance with the exact dimensions indicated in the drawing is not necessary. You can take pipes of a different section, but you just need to reduce or increase them proportionally so that the parts fit together.

Drawing of an improved Robinson camping stove with nozzles made of a profile pipe, cut lengthwise into 2 parts

Note

Please note that the drawing shows a design improved by our expert. As befits a rocket, improvised nozzles are attached to it, which receives secondary air for afterburning, which enters the pipe through a series of holes

Due to this modernization, the combustion intensity increases noticeably. For more information about the operation of a compact wood stove, watch the video:

The most common versions of large rocket stoves are made from a gas cylinder or a two-hundred-liter metal barrel. We must understand that these ready-made elements are used as an outer cap, and the internal parts of the stove must be made from pipes of smaller diameter or laid out from fireclay bricks. Moreover, from a cylinder you can make both a stationary heater with a small bench, and a unit that can be moved.

It should be noted right away that calculating the thermal power of a rocket-type furnace is quite difficult, since there is no single methodology for this. It’s easier to rely on ready-made drawings of already working samples and assemble according to them. You just need to compare the dimensions of the future stove with the dimensions of the heated room. For example, to heat a small room, the size of a cylinder is enough; in other cases, it is better to take a large barrel. The selection of internal parts for them is shown in the diagram:

Stove rocket from a cylinder

In addition to the gas cylinder itself, to assemble the stove you will need:

profile pipe 150 x 150 mm for the firebox and loading hopper;
steel pipes with a diameter of 70 and 150 mm will go to the internal vertical channel;
the same with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney;
insulation (basalt fiber with a density of at least 100 kg/m³);
sheet metal 3 mm thick.

For a master skilled in welding, this work will not be particularly difficult. The top of the cylinder should be cut off along the seam, after first unscrewing the valve and filling it to the top with water. Openings are cut on both sides for installing a firebox and inserting a chimney. A profile pipe is inserted and connected to a vertical channel, which is discharged through the bottom of the cylinder. Further work on the manufacture of the rocket furnace is carried out in accordance with the drawing:

At the end, the upper part must be welded into place, then carefully check all seams for permeability so that air does not flow uncontrollably into the oven. After this, you can attach a chimney with a water jacket (if available) and begin testing.

Important. To create sufficient draft, the top of the pipe must be raised above the level of the firebox to a height of 4 m

Masonry of a rocket-type heater made of bricks

This stove option will require the purchase of fireclay bricks; ordinary ceramic bricks will not work for a rocket stove. The masonry is done using fireclay clay mortar, this is also commercially available. First you need to dig a hole, compact the bottom and pour a foundation measuring 1200 x 400 mm and 100 mm high, as shown in the photo:

After hardening, the foundation is covered with a sheet of basalt cardboard and the combustion chamber, a bunker for loading firewood and a vertical channel are laid. A door is installed at the end of the combustion chamber to clean the ash pan. When the clay has dried, the pit is filled up, and a pre-selected pipe or small barrel with a diameter of 450 mm is placed on the vertical channel. The gap between the brickwork and the pipe walls is filled with fire-resistant insulation, for example, basalt wool.

At the last stage, a cap made of a large metal barrel with a diameter of 600 mm is put on the structure. First, a cutout is made in its upper part and a pipe is installed to connect the chimney. When the barrel turns over, he will be at the bottom. Then it’s a matter of technology; you can take the chimney directly outside or build another bench with smoke circulation. For this purpose, ordinary ceramic bricks and clay-sand mortar will do. The order of the brickwork of a rocket stove with a small bench is shown in detail in the video:

Making a rocket oven

The easiest way to make a light camp stove, shown in the drawing, is to find the following materials in the household:

round steel pipe with a diameter of 133-150 mm and a length of 0.5 m;
profile pipe 14 x 20 cm, length 0.4 m;
sheet of metal 2-3 mm thick for grates;
rod Ø8-10 mm for legs;
scraps of iron for the stand.

A vertical round pipe is welded to the profile at an angle of 45°, then eyes for the legs are attached to the body (they should be easily removed). A grate is placed inside the inclined firebox, and a lid is attached to the outside. To make it easier to clean the ash below, it is advisable to install a second door.

Advice. Be sure to weld a stand to the upper edge of the fire channel - gases must penetrate between the bottom of the dish and the body, otherwise “rocket” thrust will not occur.

Drawing of an improved version of the portable stove

The design of the furnace can be improved by organizing the supply of secondary air inside the flame tube. Modernization will increase the efficiency and duration of firewood burning. Drill holes on both sides on both sides, covering them with rocket “nozzles” according to the presented drawing. How this stove functions is demonstrated in the video:

From a gas cylinder

The following materials will be used to make a do-it-yourself rocket stove:

round pipes with transverse dimensions of 70 and 150 mm; with a wall thickness of 4 mm;
square corrugated pipe 150-200 mm in diameter;
chimney pipe Ø10-15 cm;
low-carbon steel (grade St20) sheet;
dense basalt wool (80-120 kg/m3) or loose fire resistant materials, for example, vermiculite or perlite gravel.

To begin, cut the rolled metal into blanks in accordance with the drawing. Then you need to saw off the lid of the propane tank, after unscrewing the valve and filling the tank to the top with water. Tool – ordinary grinder with a circle on metal.

Further assembly technology is as follows:

Cut the corrugated pipe lengthwise, 35 mm from the edge. One part will be used to make an ash pan, the second - a blower.
Join the firebox and flame tube at an angle of 90°, making appropriate cutouts. Cut an opening on top of the combustion chamber where the loading hopper will be welded.
Weld the riser with the firebox, then put on the casing from a 150 mm pipe, making a cutout at the bottom to fit the width of the combustion chamber.
Install and scald the bunker for storing firewood. Secure the doors of the firebox and ash pan.
Place perlite sand between the walls of the afterburner and the shell.
Make a side opening in the cylinder to insert the finished structure. It is better to make the lid removable.
Produce final assembly and weld the chimney pipe.

The master will tell you in detail about the manufacture of a rocket stove from a cylinder in the video:

Made of brick

The simplest rocket stove for cooking can be built from bricks without using mortar, as shown in the diagram with the order. Such a structure can be easily disassembled and moved if necessary.

The rocket stove with a stove bench must be placed on a foundation made of concrete or rubble stone. Material – ceramic or refractory brick, sand-clay or fireclay mortar, respectively. The finished base is covered with roofing felt for the purpose of waterproofing, then a continuous first row of bricks is laid. The further work order looks like this:

Lay out the firebox, placing the bricks on edge. In the same way, cover the chamber, leaving an opening for loading firewood and a riser.
Build an afterburner pipe from 9 rows of stones installed “on edge” with ligation.
Place a pipe or tin buckets on the riser, fill the resulting cavity with insulation or regular sand.
Place the barrel upside down, with the flue gas pipe coming out from the bottom.
Build a brick bed from 3-4 horizontal channels.
Coat the barrel and bench with clay mortar.

Important. The construction is carried out in compliance with the rules of stove masonry, described

The length of the smoke channels inside the stove is limited by the draft in the rocket stove and the external chimney. It is better to keep the total length of the flue pipes within 4 m. To prevent the heater from smoking back into the room, raise the top of the chimney to a height of 5 m, counting from the grate. How to build a brick stove - a rocket without a barrel, watch the video:

Design and principle of operation

Let's consider the design of rocket furnaces - they consist of the following elements:

Firebox – a vertical or horizontal section in which firewood is burned;
Combustion chamber (also known as a flame tube, riser) – here the process of fuel combustion occurs, releasing a large amount of heat;
Blower - necessary for the correct operation of the stove and the start of the combustion process of pyrolysis gases;
Thermal insulation – envelops the vertical part, forming a drum together with the body;
Bed – used for its intended purpose;
Chimney - removes combustion products into the atmosphere, creating draft;
Dish rack – ensures unhindered heat escape.

Depending on the type of rocket stove, certain elements may be missing.

Rocket stoves with vertical fireboxes (fuel bunkers) and blowers are the most efficient and convenient - large volumes of fuel are placed here, which ensures long-term combustion.

The most important part of the rocket furnace is the vertical drum. This is where the highest temperature is observed, as flames burst out here

In order for it to start working, it must be thoroughly warmed up. Without this, the combustion process will be weak. To warm up, paper, cardboard, small wood chips or thin branches are placed in the firebox. As soon as the system warms up, the flame in the drum will begin to burn out with a humming sound, which is a sign that it has reached operating mode.

Features of operating a rocket furnace

Before loading the main fuel, the stove must be warmed up. This applies more to large and multifunctional rocket stoves. In them, without preheating, thermal energy will be wasted.
To accelerate the furnace, dry paper, wood shavings, and straw are placed in an open ash pit. Sufficient heating of the furnace can be determined by the hum in the furnace, which subsequently subsides. Then into the heated rocket stove The main fuel is supplied and ignited by the booster fuel.
At the beginning of combustion of the main fuel, the ash door is opened completely. After a while, when the stove hum appears, the vent is covered until the hum is replaced by a whisper. In the future, to assess the state of combustion of the stove, you also need to focus on the “stove sound”, opening the ash door slightly when it subsides and closing it when a hum occurs.
The larger the jet stove, the smaller the opening for fresh air is needed. It is advisable to use a separate blower in such a furnace.
The power of the furnace can be adjusted only by the volume of fuel added, but not by the air supply.
At self-production large rocket furnace, its bunker should be made with a tight-fitting lid, without gaps or cracks. Otherwise, stable operating conditions of the furnace will not be ensured, which can result in the consumption of excess fuel energy.
Contrary to popular belief, a rocket stove for a sauna is not suitable for installation, since the stove does not emit infrared radiation in sufficient quantities, which is necessary for heating the walls and transmitting convection into the air masses in a sauna. A rocket stove for a bathhouse, theoretically, can only be installed using the Shirokov-Khramtsov stove type, the characteristics of which are given below.
A rocket stove for a garage is a mobile version of a stove design that can quickly heat a room. The main element is a heating tank made of pipe.

Fuel types

At correct assembly and operation, the rocket stove can be fired with any type of solid fuel, wood and its waste. For example, branches, leaves, firewood, coal, corn stalks, cones, pieces of chipboard, pieces of furniture. Fuel can be loaded into the stove in either dry or raw form. This is especially true for its operation in natural conditions, where it is not always possible to find dry raw materials.

Types of stoves for different operating conditions

You can also make a rocket-type furnace described above from sections of square and metal pipe according to the drawing given.

There are no drawings of it in the public domain yet, so you can try to assemble the “Ognivo” stove with your own hands based on its photograph. You can also buy it on the manufacturer's website.

We have already said that to heat large households you will need a long-burning rocket stove with a water circuit. A small one-room household can be heated with a simpler stove and a stove bench - this way you will save space on furniture. It consists of the following nodes:

Firebox with vertical loading - logs are placed in it;
Afterburner is a horizontal section in front of the riser (flame tube), where pyrolysis combustion occurs;
A riser with a hob is a vertical section with a metal body that transfers heat into the room;
Horizontal channels - they heat the stove bench, after which the combustion products are sent into the chimney.

A rocket stove for heating a one-room house is coated with clay to create a flat and comfortable bed - here you can lay a mattress or a small blanket.

For camping use, the simplest rocket-type stoves made of metal pipes are used. They are compact, easy to light and extinguish, cool quickly and allow you to quickly prepare lunch in the open air. The main thing is not to overdo it with the amount of fuel loaded, so as not to burn the food with a high-temperature flame.

Operating principle

Despite the simplicity of the design, the rocket stove involves the use of two operating principles at once:

free flow of wood gases through channels;
pyrolysis is the afterburning of gases that are released during combustion.

The simplest rocket stove uses only the first principle of operation, since there are not enough conditions for pyrolysis.

A neat, homemade rocket stove

First, let's look at the options for jet stoves used for cooking. In such a device, a short pipe located horizontally is used as a firebox, and then it is directed upward. This is the simplest design.

Fuel is placed into the rocket stove directly into the pipe, after which it is ignited. As a result, a flow of hot gases is formed, which is oriented to go out, which means it tends to the vertical section.

At the end of the pipe there is a container used for water or food. There is a gap between it and the pipe so that combustion products can escape.

Many people are interested in why such a stove is called a rocket. The design has a nozzle turned upward, from which, when the device is operating, a flame bursts out. Hence the name.

Flames escaping from a rocket stove

Of course, such a unit will not be able to warm up the room. The rocket furnace must be supplemented with a heat exchanger, as well as channels for removing combustion products. To ensure high temperatures, the vertical part of the pipe is insulated with fire-resistant material.

The nozzle can be covered with a cap. This is necessary for high-quality heat selection. A channel is created at the bottom of the horizontal section of the pipe to supply secondary air.

The modern version involves a slightly different design. Such a reactive furnace involves the afterburning of pyrolysis gases, which is possible due to the supply of secondary air. In addition, combustion products collect under the top of the hood, which increases the pressure to excess. Over time, heat is transferred outward through the walls of the pipe, forcing the gases to cool and flow downward. Hot air awaits them there, so they have to go into the space between the walls of the hood and the pipe, going into the chimney channel.

Application of a rocket stove with a hood on the site

Due to pyrolysis processes, efficiency increases significantly. And thanks to the flow of gases, a self-regulating system is organized.

Jet furnaces, product drawings

Rocket stoves are divided into portable and stationary. The first devices are smaller in size and have a simpler design. She reminds inverted letter "G". Fuel is placed in the lower crossbar. Thanks to the vertical shape of the main part, natural traction occurs.

Photo 1. Drawing and finished version of a metal rocket stove with dimensions, left and top view.

As the temperature rises, the device works more and more efficiently. Its power is enough to quickly heat water for cooking. for several people. To prevent the wood from burning out too quickly, you need to regulate the draft in the stove. To do this, close or close the fuel door completely.

Portable jet stoves mass-produced. Most popular models "Robinson" and "Ognivo". Due to the simplicity of the design, you can make them yourself.

Stationary devices are somewhat more complicated. The air ducts in the hood are made in such a way that the heated air first rises. Transferring heat to the inner walls, it gradually falls down. Then it passes into the chimney located at the bottom.

Photo 2. Drawing of a rocket stove made of brick and a metal barrel. Arrows indicate parts of the device.

This stove is quite economical to use, since it burns not only wood, but also pyrolysis gases. The chimney duct of the stove is sometimes not taken out of the room immediately, but is carried out inside a stove bench made of brick and/or clay. This bench heats the room up to comfortable temperature. The structure itself is made from large diameter pipes, barrels or bricks.

Important! The device needs to be preheated before firing. First, light paper, newspaper or something else that ignites quickly.

And only the firewood is placed in the warmed-up firebox.

Long-burning rocket stove made of brick

Since brick accumulates heat, such devices are well suited for heating rooms. Taking into account the duration of combustion, one fill of fuel is enough for 6-8 hours maintaining a comfortable temperature.

Sometimes the oven is made entirely of brick. The only fittings (doors) you will need are steel or cast iron. In other cases, the outer part of the stove hood is made from a barrel or wide pipe.

Attention! A brick oven requires a separate foundation, separate from the one being built for the building itself. It is advisable to plan its location before construction begins.

A device made of a pipe with a water circuit, diagram

The furnace structure is welded from iron pipes of different diameters.

If you intend to heat a small room, the furnace hood can be made from waste gas cylinder.

In a larger house, it would be suitable for these purposes. iron barrel.

If you install a water circuit on the stove chimney, you can get a long-burning boiler that will heat the room well.

The water circuit is usually made from gas cylinders.

"Robinson"

This is a simple and reliable camp stove. She's quite capable quickly (in 10 minutes) boil a liter water. In this case, there is no need to add firewood.

The design was developed back in the last century, but due to its advantages it is still used today. "Robinson" is mass-produced, but It is not difficult to assemble it yourself.

"Flint"

This oven is similar to the previous version. But the combustion chamber in it shorter and at a more obtuse angle in relation to the chimney. This stove is shaped like an inverted letter “G”.

Step-by-step instruction

Here is an approximate procedure that should be followed when making this oven:

Making a firebox

The firebox is welded using steel pipe or sheets. The firebox lid must close tightly. It should be made of a steel sheet, around the perimeter of which a strip of basalt cardboard is fixed with screws or rivets. For a tighter closure, the lid can be equipped with a screw clamping mechanism.

This is what the firebox and ash pan look like in a simple rocket stove

The ash chamber (indicated in the diagram as Primary Ash Pit) is separated from the main part of the firebox by a grate welded from a rod with a diameter of 8–10 mm. The grille should be installed on corner shelves that are welded to the inner walls.

The door of the ash chamber must also be airtight. It is made from a steel sheet, to which a steel strip is welded in two rows along the entire perimeter. An asbestos cord or basalt cardboard is placed in the groove between these strips.

All that remains is to weld the fire tube to the firebox.

Primary chimney

A 90-degree bend and a small section of pipe must be welded to the pipe that serves as the primary chimney, after which this L-shaped structure is placed inside a barrel or cylinder, that is, the future drum.
The outlet with a piece of pipe welded to it should be brought out into one of the openings in the lower part of the drum so that the primary chimney is located strictly in the center. Let us remind you that the upper cut of the pipe must be located at least 70 mm below the upper edge of the barrel (cylinder).
After centering the primary chimney, its horizontal tail, which was brought out into the opening in the drum, is welded to its edges with a continuous seam along the entire perimeter.
After this, the shank of the primary chimney is welded to the flame pipe, and a tire is welded to the drum on top.
A short piece of pipe should be welded to the second opening in the drum, which will act as a secondary ash pan. It needs a cleaning window. Along its edges, you need to butt-weld the studs to which the lid will be screwed (remember that we decided not to install the door in this place, since we have to open it quite rarely).
A strip of basalt cardboard should be secured along the perimeter of the lid with screws or rivets.

Chimney installation

We weld the horizontal part of the chimney to the outlet of the secondary ash pan, on which the stove bench will subsequently be installed. If the flue is supposed to be made of metal corrugation, then first you need to weld a short pipe to the ash pan, and then attach the corrugation to it using a clamp.

On final stage An external chimney is attached to the horizontal flue.

Furnace lining

The metal part of the stove is ready; now it needs to be properly plastered with heat-insulating and heat-accumulating compounds.

The lining of the combustion part (up to the primary chimney) should be done with a mixture of stove clay and broken fireclay bricks, taken in a 1:1 ratio.

Primary chimney lining

The materials used for lining the primary chimney - light fireclay brick or river sand - are porous, so when open they will quickly become saturated with soot and lose thermal insulation properties. To prevent this, the lining on the primary chimney is protected with a thin-walled steel casing, and the ends are coated with oven clay.

In accordance with the square-cube law, the ratio of the volume and surface area of the drum depends on its diameter, therefore the lining of the primary chimney is made differently depending on the size of the furnace. Three options are shown in the figure.

Primary chimney lining options

If the lining is made with fireclay bricks, the cavities between its fragments must be filled with construction sand. If river sand rich in alumina is used, you have to resort to more complex technology:

The sand is cleared of large debris (careful preparation is not required).
A thin layer is poured into the casing, compacted and wetted so that a crust forms.
Subsequent layers are poured in the same way. There should be from 5 to 7 in total.
The sand lining is dried for one week, then the top is covered with oven clay and the manufacture of the oven continues.

The last step is to coat all parts of the stove with adobe. It is prepared from the following ingredients:

clay;
straw (14–16 kg per 1 m3 of clay);
sand (in small quantities);
water.

The straw to clay ratio shown is approximate. In some types of clay, more straw can be added, in others, on the contrary, its amount must be reduced.

Construction of a brick rocket stove

The heater has similar technical properties as metal structure However, the construction of a brick rocket furnace is a labor-intensive process that requires additional financial costs and time.

The cap of a stone rocket stove should be made from a barrel. For safety and ease of use, the stove structure, except for the hood, must be lowered down by digging a hole under the floor. The bottom must be compacted and filled with concrete mortar, in simple words - to make a foundation. Thickness concrete covering should be more than 10.0 cm. In order for the foundation to become strong and the brick laying process can begin on it, you will need to wait about 3 days until the mortar completely hardens. After this period, you can begin to build the walls of the rocket furnace.

For masonry, only fire-resistant building materials can be used, namely:

Fireproof clay mortar;
Fire bricks.

After installation is completed, you should wait until the solution hardens and the structure becomes complete, strong and reliable. Iron barrel without a bottom, it is installed on top of the fire channel, and the gap between the barrel and the brick is filled with insulation. When processing the end, you must use the same fire-resistant clay mortar. The largest barrel is placed on top, and a chimney pipe is attached to its lower part.

How to make it yourself

Before you make a rocket stove, you need to decide on the location of its installation, the dimensions of the future design, and develop a diagram. The masonry technology itself is quite simple; any novice builder can master it.

The simplest design of a rocket furnace can be built from 20 bricks per summer cottage and use it to heat food brought from home.

Selecting a location

Before starting construction, the first thing is to choose a location. It is recommended to place rocket-type brick kilns closer to front door. In this case, after cleaning, the ash will not need to be carried across the entire room, which will have a positive effect on the overall dustiness of the room.

It is also desirable that at the place where the pipe exits there are no rafters located closer to the chimney than 40 cm. And yet, the stove should not be adjacent to external wall at home, so that expensive heat does not go to heating the street.

Preparation of the solution

Cement mortar will quickly crack under the influence of high temperatures, so for masonry heating devices For bricks, only a mortar consisting of clay and sand is used.

Their proportions are determined experimentally, depending on the quality of the clay. Most often in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3, and the higher the fat content of the clay, the less it is added to the solution.

First, the clay must be soaked, strained, and then sand must be added. The resulting solution should have a consistency similar to thick sour cream. You can check its viscosity level in the following way:

place a wooden stick or trowel handle into the mixture;
remove the tool and shake well;
check the thickness of the adhering layer: if less than 2 mm add clay, more than 3 mm add sand.

The preparation of the mortar must be approached with all responsibility, since only a plastic mixture of the required thickness can fill all the unevenness of the bricks and ensure their strong adhesion.

Laying a rocket furnace of 20 bricks

Ordering a rocket stove for 20 bricks

Example of a brick rocket stove

Laying a rocket stove with a stove bench

A brick rocket stove, even equipped with a stove bench, has small sizes. The order shown in the figures (below) allows you to assemble the structure without using metal products. Only the doors will be made of iron. Subsequently, the body can be coated with clay to give it a more rounded shape.

Row No.	Number of bricks, pcs.	Description of the masonry	Drawing
1	62	Forming the base of the furnace	(click to enlarge)
2	44	Formation of the base of channels for heating the bed along the entire structure. Fastening mortgages for mounting a cast iron door
3	44	Repeating the outline of the second row
4	59	Complete channel blocking. Beginning of the formation of a vertical smoke channel and firebox
5	60	Construction of a bed	(click to enlarge)
6	17	Continuation of the laying of the smoke channel
7	18
8	14
9; 10	14	Formation of a smoke channel	(click to enlarge)
11	13
12	11	Beginning of laying the chimney pipe. This is where the channel begins, through which the air from the hob will fall down to move to the stove bench
13	10	Completion of the formation of the surface for the hob. Laying an asbestos pad, which is covered with sheet steel.	(click to enlarge)
14; 15	5	Closing the chimney channel and forming a low wall between the stove bench and the hob.

After completing the masonry work, the homemade rocket stove must be dried, carefully, heating at low intensity. First, no more than 20% of the norm of firewood is placed in the firebox, and the device is heated twice a day for 30 - 40 minutes

According to this scheme, the stove is heated until its outer surface is cleared of damp stains. Depending on the size of the device, drying may take from three to eight days. During this time, the room should be well ventilated, especially in summer.

Accelerating drying can lead to cracking of the masonry, that is, the device will become unsuitable for further heating.

Finished look

Types of rocket stoves

In this section we will look at the most common types of rocket stoves used in field and stationary conditions.

Simple metal stoves

To make a metal rocket furnace made from an L-shaped piece of pipe more efficient, it is equipped with a metal casing made from an old barrel. A blower can be seen at the bottom of the barrel, and a fire tube peeks out from the top. If necessary, the internal volume is filled with insulation, for example, ash - it does not burn and retains heat well.

Metal rocket stoves with vertical fireboxes located at an angle to the flame tube are the most convenient. Often the combustion openings are closed with lids; in this case, air is taken through the ash pan. Sometimes the firebox is made larger in diameter than the flame tube to ensure long-lasting combustion.

Simple brick ovens

A rocket stove, made with your own hands from brick, can be used to heat households. In this case, a simple arrangement is not enough - you will have to build a stationary version using a special cement mortar. There are many procedures for this, you just have to choose the appropriate option. By the way, some versions of such furnaces include a water circuit.

Advantage of brick rocket kilns:

Simple design;
Long-term heat retention;
The ability to create a comfortable warm bed.

Some models are made combined, using both steel and bricks.

Sophisticated rocket stoves

Streamlined rocket furnaces are made using clay coating irregular shape, which is well perceived by human vision.

Assembling a rocket stove with your own hands

The easiest way to assemble a camping and garden version of a jet stove. To do this, you do not have to purchase masonry materials and prepare adobe for coating.

Several metal buckets, a stainless steel pipe for the fire channel and small crushed stone for backfilling - that’s all you need to make a rocket stove with your own hands.

The first step is to cut a hole in the bottom bucket with tin snips to allow the flame tube to pass through. It must be done at such a height that there is room under the pipe for crushed stone backfill.

The second step is to install a flame pipe in the lower bucket, consisting of two elbows: a short loading one and a long one for the gases to escape.

The third step is to cut a hole in the bottom of the top bucket that fits over the bottom one. The head of the frying tube is inserted into it so that its cut is 3-4 cm above the bottom.

The fourth is pouring small crushed stone into the lower bucket to half its height. It is needed to accumulate heat and thermally insulate the heat channel.

The last step is making a coaster for dishes. It can be welded from round reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm.

A more complex, but at the same time durable, powerful and aesthetic version of the rocket stove requires the use of a gas cylinder and a thick steel pipe of rectangular cross-section.

The assembly diagram does not change. The gas outlet here is organized at the side, not at the top. To prepare food, the top part with the valve is cut off from the cylinder and a flat round plate 4-5 mm thick is welded in its place.

How does a rocket stove work?

Although the design of the “rocket” is simple, it contains two principles of fuel combustion, borrowed from other solid fuel stoves:

Natural circulation of hot gases and smoke through the stove channels is a standard solution, as in a potbelly stove;
Afterburning of unburned gases (pyrolysis) with limited access of oxygen to the combustion chamber.

The simplest scheme jet stove, which is intended only for cooking, uses the natural combustion of wood - in an open chamber it is impossible to create conditions for maintaining the pyrolysis reaction and the afterburning of unburned gases.

Let's consider a simple design of a direct combustion rocket stove, which is traditionally installed in an open area in the yard. You can quickly heat a certain amount of water on it, or prepare lunch for your family on vacation. From the figure below, it becomes clear that to manufacture such a sample, you will need two sections of a cylindrical or rectangular iron pipe, which are connected to each other by welding at an angle of 900.

The simplest rocket device

A horizontal section of a metal box acts as a combustion chamber; firewood is placed there. Also, fuel loading can be arranged vertically - just add it from above horizontal pipe a vertical iron cylinder into which firewood will be loaded. Thus, you will get a structure of three pipes or boxes, the lowest of which (horizontal) will work as a firebox. In a stationary scheme, the simplest design of such a stove often uses ordinary red brick, which is placed on a clay mortar.

The efficiency of such a design cannot be called satisfactory, so the craftsmen came up with another scheme that increases the efficiency of the “rocket”. An additional element of this improvement is another pipe of a larger diameter (as you can see, all materials are available and cheap), into which the main pipe of the riser stove (primary chimney) is installed. This way you can increase the overall heating of the stove and the duration of heat retention.

Scheme of a furnace with an insulated riser

On the diagram:

Outer casing made of pipe;
A pipe that serves as a firebox;
Channel for air outlet into the combustion chamber;
Insulated area between the body and the riser. The same ash can serve as insulation.

Manufacturing a modernized Robinson furnace

The model described in the previous section can be improved with a door that is installed on the fuel hopper. But if you make the sash on hinges, it will simply tilt upward, which will not allow you to adjust the draft. Such a part can only be in the “closed” or “open” position. It will be much more effective to use a damper that moves vertically or horizontally. To install it, you need to weld small corners measuring 10x10 mm or 15x15 mm onto the hopper.

In addition, the following options for modernizing the furnace are noted:

the fuel hopper can be made of thicker steel, for example 5 mm;
replace the round chimney pipe with a square one;
for the stand, use a different design: as an option, take corners, balls or other elements that are at hand;
change the stand for the camping rocket stove, for which a metal plate and a piece of reinforcement can be used to make a leg.

To make a modernized stove, you will need the following: materials:

Square pipe with a cross-section of 160×160 mm and a length of 400 mm. The firebox will be made from it.
Square pipe with a cross-section of 120×120 mm and a length of 600 mm. It is needed to make a chimney.
A five-millimeter sheet of steel and a piece of reinforcement with a diameter of 7-8 mm. The element separating the fuel compartment and the ash duct will be made from them. The size of the part should be 300×155 mm.
Steel sheet 350×180 mm. This material is necessary for the manufacture of a stove stand.
Steel sheet measuring 160×100 mm.

Production technology for this model of camping stove is not fundamentally different from creating similar structures:

A metal plate with a grate must be welded to the walls of the bunker.
Then the back of the container is attached, and the chimney is attached on top.
When the entire structure is ready, a metal stand is welded to it from below, and an additional support is made from a piece of reinforcement. You can also use part of the vertical pipe that remains after cutting.
Pieces of corners are welded on top of the vertical pipe, which will form a stand for dishes. Its height should be 40-50 mm.
The hole in the fuel tank must be closed with a hinged door or a flap inserted into the corners.
The finished product can be tested. If everything went well, the welds are cleaned and the reaction furnace is coated with heat-resistant paint. This will not only give the product a more attractive appearance, but will also protect the metal from corrosion.

Jet heating unit from a propane cylinder

A rocket stove made from a gas cylinder is an easy-to-make wood-burning stove that uses fuel economically and effectively warms up the room.

For its assembly it is used:

empty propane cylinder (unit body);
pipe steel diameter 100 mm (for arranging a chimney and a vertical channel);
steel profile pipe 150x150 mm (firebox and loading hopper are made);
sheet steel 3 mm thick.

Making a stove from a gas cylinder requires the use of a welding machine. If you plan to assemble such a rocket stove with your own hands, the drawings will help you accurately follow optimal sizes all structural elements.

Scheme of processes in a rocket furnace

At the preliminary stage of work, you should prepare a gas cylinder - turn off the valve, fill the container to the top with water to ensure that gas vapors that can explode from a spark are removed from the container. Then the top part is cut off along the seam. A hole is cut in the lower part of the resulting cylinder for the chimney, and in the bottom for the combustion chamber with an attached firebox. The vertical channel is brought out through a hole in the bottom, and a structure from a profile pipe is welded on the bottom side, according to the rocket drawing.

Attention! The sheet metal cover should be made removable and a non-flammable seal (asbestos cord) should be provided for reliable sealing. The flat lid is used as a cooking surface.
. If you are installing a rocket stove from a gas cylinder yourself, you should pay close attention to the quality of the welds and check their tightness - air should not flow uncontrollably into the working stove

If everything is in order, you can install the chimney.

If you are installing a rocket stove from a gas cylinder yourself, you should pay close attention to the quality of the welds and check their tightness - air should not flow uncontrollably into the working stove. If everything is in order, you can install the chimney.

Important! The top of the chimney must be raised to a height of 4 meters relative to the level of the firebox in order to ensure the required draft intensity.

Such a home stove is regulated in power by the volume of fuel loading. The jet stove is put into operation by supplying air through the combustion chamber; this is regulated by the hopper lid. Next, secondary air is constantly supplied to the unit. This heating stove explodes at the end of the combustion process, since it is impossible to shut off the supply of secondary air, and soot deposits on the inner walls of the vertical channel. The casing cover is made removable so that it can be removed periodically.

Boiler unit

A long-burning boiler can be obtained by installing a water circuit on the chimney of a stove made from a gas cylinder or other materials, but according to the same scheme indicated above. However, heating the water in the circuit of such a unit will be inefficient, since the main part of the thermal energy is transferred to the air in the room and to the containers on the hob.

An effective version of a rocket stove made from a metal barrel

If you want to create a rocket boiler for water heating with high efficiency, you will have to sacrifice the cooking function. A do-it-yourself rocket stove according to the drawing presented below can be installed in a short time.

This will require:

fireclay bricks and refractory masonry composition (for installing the base of the stove with a firebox);
steel pipe with a diameter of 70 mm (for a vertical channel);
steel barrel (for the casing);
fireproof heat insulator;
sheet steel 3 mm thick and a metal barrel (or pipe) of smaller diameter than the casing (for arranging a water jacket and smoke channels for heating the water circuit);
steel pipe with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney;
container, pipes and connecting pipes for arranging a heat accumulator.

A rocket furnace with a water circuit is characterized by the fact that the thermal insulation of the vertical channel provides an optimal combustion mode for pyrolysis gases, while all the heated air enters the “coil” with a water jacket and releases the main part of the thermal energy there, heating the coolant.

Rocket stove with water circuit

The heat accumulator will continue to supply heated coolant to the heating circuit even after the furnace itself has cooled down. The container with water is equipped with a thick layer of insulation.

How to make a rocket stove with your own hands

He has several stages- selection of a suitable design; selection of materials and tools; direct production.

Project selection

When choosing a suitable project, consider the following factors:

The purpose of the stove is whether it requires only cooking food or also heating the room.
Available materials.
Approximate power. It depends on how many servings of food or how much room the device will be enough for.

Materials

For a brick structure you will need:

fireclay (fireproof) brick;
fireproof mixture for masonry;
concrete mortar (for the base);
mineral wool;
asbestos;
a whole barrel or an empty gas cylinder for the cap (optional);
stove doors - combustion chamber and ash pan;
if the cap is brick - a thick sheet of stainless steel according to the size of its cross-section.

For finishing the stove the following are used:

fireproof paint;
clay;
stones;
and so on.

For metal, take:

Round metal pipe with diameter about 150 mm and length no more than 90 mm(better about 60 mm).
Profiled (rectangular) pipe with a cross-section of 100-120 mm and length about a third round.
Instead of a rectangular pipe, you can take a sheet of steel thick 3 mm.
3 nuts.
Steel rods, plates or long bolts for legs.

Reference. For better traction, take a profiled pipe with the side no more than the diameter of a round one.

Preparing tools

For production you will need:

Master OK;
level;
welding machine;
bayonet shovel;
metal brush;
level;
Bulgarian.

Manufacturing, device sizes

There are many variations on this theme. Let's consider making two in principle different types jet stove. This is a brick stove with a stove bench, which is used indoors, and a camp stove, assembled from metal. If necessary, changes are made, combinations of methods are possible (for example, a heating and cooking device, but made of pipes covered with clay or stones).

How to make a brick oven with a stove bench

First stage- foundation installation. A rectangular recess is dug under it, which is then filled with concrete.

For strength, it is better to pre-install the reinforcement. The base must be strictly horizontal.

After hardening concrete mortar Brick laying begins. External walls are located along the perimeter of the concrete platform. A combustion chamber is formed. On one side of it there is a combustion chamber with a hole for loading firewood. On the other side there are air ducts.

Important! Each row of bricks is also checked with a level. This is done in both planes - horizontal and vertical

In the combustion chamber also leave a hole for cleaning ash which is closed by a door. When this camera is ready, they put it on metal barrel. The gaps are filled with insulation, for example, mineral wool.

If the barrel is not used, it is installed on top cooking stove. Asbestos insulation is placed under it.

The chimney is connected to the air duct and discharged to the street.

Then finished the device is decorated. For example, it is coated with clay and covered with paint. Another option is to leave the brickwork.

Jet stove for camping

It consists of two compartments, connected to each other. To assemble it, first cut the pipes at an angle 45°. If you took a metal sheet instead of the second pipe, cut it into the following parts:

two with sides 300 mm and 150 mm;
two - 300 mm and 100 mm;
and one 150 and 100 mm.

Photo 3. Ready-made jet stove for hiking. The device is made of metal pipes.

Then weld them together. You will also need another plate to separate the fuel compartment, its dimensions are 200 mm and 100 mm.

All fragments are welded together in accordance with the diagram. Round pipe fastened at the bottom of the rectangular part and in the middle relative to the sides.

Welded from scraps of reinforcement grate. It is convenient to make it retractable in order to lay firewood and then slide it inside the firebox.

The pipe is sawed off 4 rings. They are attached to the top so that the dishes do not block the draft hole.

In a collapsible version legs are installed. Nuts are welded from below, into which long bolts are then screwed. There is another way. Rods or scraps of steel sheet are welded to the bottom. It is less convenient to transport, but there is no need for assembly.

When the design is ready, it needs to be painted. Only fireproof paint is used. This will protect against corrosion and also cover solder marks.

In this design, as in the one described above, the operating principle is to isolate the fire and direct the thermal energy to the right place.

Stage 1. Preparing everything you need

To prepare a portable rocket stove you will need:

two tin containers of different diameters;
a couple of corners;
steel clamps ø10 cm;
stainless steel pipe for chimney;
fine crushed stone;
Bulgarian;

metal scissors.

Making a camping and garden stove

In the second bucket - the lower part of the rocket stove, cut a hole for the pipe

We cut the metal into petals and bend them inside the bucket

Forward flow

Place small crushed stones in a bucket

We put the second bucket-lid on the rocket stove pipe

Bend a cookware burner from wire

Bend a hotplate from wire

Lighting up the rocket oven

Stage 2. Assembling the structure

Step 1. A lid for the structure is made from a smaller bucket. To do this, a hole is made in it for the chimney (the cover is not removed). In this case, it is better to bend the “petals” inward - this way the pipe will be fixed more securely.

The lower half of the bucket is cut off with a grinder.

Step 2. A hole is cut in the bottom of another container to connect the firebox. The tin is cut into “petals” with scissors and bent inward.

Step 3. The forward flow is assembled from a pipe and a couple of corners. The pipe is then inserted into the bucket and connected there to the “petals” using a steel clamp. That's it, the forward flow of the rocket furnace is ready.

Step 4. The space between the direct flow and the walls of the bucket is filled with fine crushed stone. The latter will perform two functions in the design at once - thermal insulation and thermal accumulation.

Step 5. The second bucket (lid) is placed on the jet stove.

Step 6. A hotplate is bent from steel wire.

Note! Instead of a burner, you can install three bricks. . Step 7

All that remains is to paint the structure with heat-resistant paint (preferably gray or black). For melting, the direct flow outlet pipe will be used.

Step 7. All that remains is to paint the structure with heat-resistant paint (preferably gray or black). For melting, the direct flow outlet pipe will be used.

Mini jet oven

Mini jet stove, kindling

Let's say right away: the rocket stove is a simple and convenient heating and cooking device using wood fuel with good, but not exceptional parameters. Its popularity is explained not only by its catchy name, but moreover by the fact that it can be made with one’s own hands and not by a stove maker or even a mason; if necessary - literally in 15-20 minutes.

And also because, by investing a little more work, you can get a wonderful bed in your home without resorting to building a complex, expensive and bulky Russian or bell-type stove. Moreover, the very principle of the design of the rocket stove gives greater freedom to design and the manifestation of creativity.

Rocket stove - wood fuel device

But what is perhaps more remarkable is the “jet furnace” for the huge number of, at times, completely absurd inventions associated with it. Here, for example, are a few pearls snatched at random:

“The principle of operation of the furnace is the same as that of the MIG-25 ramjet engine.” Yes, the MIG-25 and its descendant MIG-31 did not even sit down in the bushes near the ramjet engine (ramjet engine), as they say. The 25th and 31st are powered by double-circuit turbojet engines (turbojet engines), four of which later pulled the Tu-144 and still power other vehicles. And any stove with any jet engine (RE) is technical antipodes, see below.
“Reverse jet thrust furnace.” Is the stove flying tail first, or what?
“How will she blow through such a pipe?” A non-pressurized oven does not blow into the chimney. On the contrary, the chimney draws from it, using natural draft. The higher the pipe, the better the pull.
“The rocket stove is a combination of a Dutch bell stove (sic!) with a Russian stove bench.” Firstly, there is a contradiction in the definition: a Dutch oven is a channel oven, and any bell-type oven is anything but a Dutch oven. Secondly, the bed of a Russian stove warms up completely differently than a rocket stove.

Note: in fact, the rocket stove was so nicknamed because in the wrong firing mode (more on that later), it makes a loud whistling hum. A properly tuned rocket stove whispers or rustles.

These and similar inconsistencies, understandably, confuse and prevent you from making a rocket stove properly. So let's figure out what the truth is about the rocket stove, and how to use this truth correctly so that this really good stove shows all its advantages.

Furnace or rocket?

For complete clarity, we still need to figure out why a stove cannot be a rocket, and a rocket cannot be a stove. Any RD is the same as an internal combustion engine, only the escaping gases themselves act as pistons, connecting rods with a crank and transmission. In a piston internal combustion engine, already at the moment of combustion, the high temperature of the working fluid creates a lot of pressure, which pushes the piston, and it moves all the mechanics. The movement of the piston is active, the working fluid pushes it to where it itself tends to expand.

When fuel is burned in the combustion chamber of the thruster, the thermal potential energy of the working fluid is immediately converted into kinetic energy, like that of a load falling from a height: since the outlet for hot gases is open to the nozzle, they rush there. In the RD, the pressure plays a subordinate role and nowhere exceeds the first tens of atmospheres; this, for any conceivable nozzle cross-section, is not enough to accelerate the migar to 2.5 M or launch a satellite into orbit. According to the law of conservation of momentum (amount of motion), the aircraft with a taxiway receives a push in reverse side(recoil impulse), this is it jet thrust, i.e. thrust from recoil, reaction. In a turbofan engine, the second circuit creates an invisible air shell around the jet stream. As a result, the recoil impulse is, as it were, contracted in the direction of the thrust vector, so a turbofan engine is much more economical than a simple turbofan engine.

In a stove there is no conversion of energy types into each other, therefore it is not an engine. The stove simply distributes potential thermal energy properly in space and time. From the point of view of the furnace, an ideal RD has an efficiency = 0%, because it only pulls due to fuel. From the point of view of the jet engine, the stove has an efficiency of 0%, it only dissipates heat and does not draw at all. On the contrary, if the pressure in the chimney rises to or above atmospheric pressure (and without this, where will the jet thrust or active force come from?), the stove will at least smoke, or even poison the residents or start a fire. The draft in the chimney is without pressurization, i.e. without external energy consumption, it is ensured due to the temperature difference along its height. Potential energy here, again, is not converted into any other energy.

Note: in a rocket RD, fuel and oxidizer are supplied to the combustion chamber from the tanks, or they are refueled directly into it if the RD is powered by solid fuel. In a turbojet engine (TRE), the oxidizer - atmospheric air - is pumped into the combustion chamber by a compressor driven by a turbine in the exhaust gas flow, the rotation of which consumes some of the energy of the jet stream. In a turboprop engine (TVD), the turbine is designed so that it selects 80-90% of the jet power, which is transmitted to the propeller and compressor. In direct flow jet engine(ramjet) air supply to the combustion chamber is ensured by high-speed pressure at hypersonic speed. A lot of experiments have been carried out on ramjet engines, but there have been no production aircraft with them, there are none, and there are no plans to do so, as ramjet engines are too capricious and unreliable.

Kan or not Kan?

Among the myths about the rocket stove, there are some that are not entirely absurd, and even somewhat justified. One of these misconceptions is the identification of the “racket” with the Chinese kan.

The author had the opportunity to visit the Amur region in winter, in the Blagoveshchensk region, as a child. Even then there were a lot of Chinese living in the villages there, fleeing in all directions from the cultural revolution of the Great Chairman Mao and his completely frostbitten Red Guards.

Winter in those parts is not like Moscow, frost of -40 is common. And what amazed and aroused interest in stoves in general was how Chinese fanzas were heated by canals. Firewood is transported to Russian villages by carts, and smoke comes out of the chimneys in a column. And all the same, in a hut made of logs not the size of a child’s girth, by morning the corners from the inside were frozen. And the fanza is built like country house(see figure), the windows are covered with fish bladder or even rice paper, bunches of wood chips or twigs are placed in the can, but the room is always warm.

However, there are no subtle thermal engineering wisdom in the can. This is an ordinary one, only small, kitchen stove with a lower exit into the chimney, and most of the chimney itself is a long horizontal channel, a hog, on which a stove bench is located. The chimney, for fire safety reasons, is outside the building.

The effectiveness of the can is determined primarily by the thermal curtain it creates: the couch goes around, if not the entire perimeter from the inside, except for the door, then certainly 3 walls. Which once again confirms: the design and parameters of the stove must be linked to those of the heated room.

Note: the Korean ondol stove operates on the principle of a warm floor - a very low stove occupies almost the entire area of the room.

Secondly, in the very cold, the Kans were drowned with argal - the dried droppings of ruminant animals, domestic and wild. Its calorific value is quite high, but argal burns slowly. In fact, an argal fire is already a long-burning stove.

It is not the Russian custom to keep sticking twigs into the oven, and our men disdained to cook food in cattle feces. But travelers of the past highly valued argal as a fuel; they collected it along the way and took it with them, carefully protecting it from getting wet. N. M. Przhevalsky in one of his letters stated that without argal he would not have been able to conduct his expeditions in Central Asia without losses. And the British, who disdained argal, had 1/3-1/4 of the detachments’ personnel returning to base. True, he was recruited from sepoys, Indian soldiers in English service, and pandits - spies recruited from the local population. One way or another, the highlight of the rocket stove is not at all the bed on the hog. To get to it, you will have to learn to think like an American: all the primary sources on the rocket furnace are from there, and utter speculation is generated only and only by misunderstanding.

How to deal with rockets?

With our view of things, it is necessary to study the original technical documentation of rocket stoves with caution, but not at all because of inches-millimeters, liters-gallons and the intricacies of American technical jargon. Although they also mean a lot.

Note: a textbook example is “Naked conductor runs under the carriage.” Literary translation - a naked conductor runs under the carriage. And in the original Petroleum Engineer article, this meant “Bare wire runs under the crane trolley.”

The rocket stove was invented by members of survival societies - people with a unique way of thinking, even by American standards. In addition, they were not bound by any standards and norms, but, like all Americans, they automatically always converted everything into money, taking into account their own benefit; a person with a different worldview simply will not get along in America. And instinctive self-interest inevitably gives rise to egocentrism. He by no means excludes good deeds, but not out of spiritual impulse, but with the expectation of dividends. Not in this life, so in that one.

Note: How afraid the average citizen of the greatest empire in history is of everything can only be understood by talking to them long enough. And sociopsychologists go out of their way to convince you that living in fear is normal and even cool. The rationale is clear: intimidated biomass is easily predictable and manageable.

Without heating and cooking, of course, you cannot survive. What is a stove for? For the time being, the survivors were content camping stoves. But then, according to the Americans themselves, in 1985-86. they were greatly impressed by two films that were released with a short interval and triumphantly went around all the screens of the world: the Soviet science fiction parody of the entire human race “Kin-dza-dza” and the Hollywood “The Day After”, about the global nuclear war.

The survivors realized that after the nuclear winter there would be no extreme romance, but there would be the planet Plyuk in the Kin-dza-dza galaxy. The newly-minted plukans will have to be content with “ka-tse” in small quantities, bad, expensive and difficult to obtain. Yes, in case anyone hasn’t watched “Kin-dza-dza” - ka-tse in Plyukan style, a match, a measure of wealth, prestige and power. It was necessary to come up with your own furnace; none of the existing ones are designed for post-nuclear blast.

Americans are very often endowed with a sharp mind, but a deep mind is found as a rare exception. A completely normal US citizen with an IQ above average may sincerely not understand how it is that someone else does not get what he himself has already “caught up with” and how someone else may not like what suits him.

If an American has already understood the essence of the idea, then he brings the product to its possible perfection - what if a buyer is found, you can’t sell raw iron. But technical documentation, which looks beautiful and neat, can be drawn up extremely carelessly, or even deliberately distorted. What's wrong with this, this is my know-how. Maybe I'll sell it to someone. Either there will be a trick or not, but for now know-how costs money. In America, such an attitude to business is considered quite honest and worthy, but there, a clinical alcoholic at work as a stopper would never miss a job and wouldn’t take a couple of bolts home for the farm. That, in general, is what all of America stands for.

And Russian breadth of soul is also a double-edged sword. Our master most often just from the sketch immediately understands how this thing works, but in the little things he turns out to be careless and overly trusting of the source code: how is it for a fellow craftsman to deceive his own man. If something isn’t there, well, it’s not necessary. It seems clear how everything is spinning there - my hands are already itching. And then, perhaps, until it comes to the hammer, chisel and accompanying literature, still counting and counting. Yes, even important points may be omitted, veiled or obviously incorrect.

Note: an American acquaintance once asked the author of this article - how did we, really stupid ones, choose the very smart Reagan as president? And you, who are really smart, tolerate a slobbering senile with dyed eyebrows in the Kremlin? True, then in America no one in a bad dream would have dreamed that in the next century a black citizen with a Muslim name would be installed in the Oval Office, and his first lady would dig up a vegetable garden near the White House and begin to grow turnips there. Times is changing, as Bob Dylan once sang for a completely different reason...

Sources of misunderstandings

There is such a thing in technology - the square-cube law. Simply, when the size of something changes, its surface area changes by the square, and its volume changes by the cube. Most often this means changing the overall dimensions of the product according to the principle of geometric similarity, i.e. You can't just keep the proportions. In relation to solid fuel stoves, the square-cube law is doubly valid, because the fuel also obeys it: it releases heat from the surface, and its reserve is contained in the volume.

Note: a consequence of the square-cube law - any specific stove design has a certain permissible range of its size and power, within which the specified parameters are ensured.

Why, for example, can’t you make a potbelly stove the size of a refrigerator and with a power of about 50-60 kilowatts? Because a potbelly stove, in order for it to provide any heat, must itself be heated inside to at least 400-450 degrees. And in order to warm up the volume of the refrigerator to such a temperature at a given heat transfer, you need as much firewood or coal as will not fit in it. A mini-potbelly stove will also be of no use: the heat will escape through the outer surface of the stove, which has grown relative to its volume, and the fuel will not release more of it than it can.

The square-cube law applies threefold to the rocket stove, because she is “polished” in an American professional way. With our kondachka it is better to stay away from her. For example, here in Fig. an American development, which, judging by its demand, many of our craftsmen take as a prototype.

Original drawing of a mobile rocket oven

The fact that the exact type of fire clay is not indicated here will be sorted out by ours. But, to be honest, who noticed that, judging by the absence of an external chimney and the presence of transportation holes (carrying pipe), this stove is mobile with an open firebox? And most importantly - the fact that her drum used a 20-gallon barrel with a diameter of 17 inches (431 mm with change)?

Judging by the designs from the RuNet - no one at all. They take this thing and adjust it according to the principle of geometric similarity to a domestic 200-liter barrel with a diameter of 590 mm on the outside. Many people think of setting up a ash pit, but the bunker is left open. The exact proportions of vermiculite and perlite for lining the riser and molding the furnace body (core) are not specified? We make the lining homogeneous, although from what follows it will be clear that it should consist of an insulating and accumulating part. As a result, the stove roars, it only eats dry fuel, and a lot of it, and before the end of the season it becomes covered in smoke inside.

How was the rocket stove born?

So, without science fiction and futurology, the survivalists needed a stove to heat the house, working with high efficiency on low-quality random wood fuel: wet wood chips, twigs, bark. Which, in addition, will need to be reloaded without stopping the furnace. And it most likely won’t be possible to dry it in a woodshed. Heat transfer after heating is needed for at least 6 hours to get enough sleep; getting burned in your sleep on Plyuk is no better than in America. Additional conditions: the design of the furnace should not contain complex metal products, non-metallic materials and components that require production equipment for manufacturing, and the furnace itself must be accessible for construction by an unskilled worker without the use of power tools and complex technologies. Of course, no supercharging, electronics or other energy dependencies.

They immediately took a bed from the kana, but what about the fuel? For a bell-type furnace, it requires high quality. Long-burning stoves even operate on sawdust, but only dry ones, and do not allow stopping with additional loading. They were nevertheless taken as a basis; the high efficiency achieved was very attractive in simple ways. But in attempts to make “long stoves” work on bad fuel, another circumstance became clear.

What is wood gas?

The high efficiency of long-burning furnaces is achieved largely due to the afterburning of pyrolysis gases. Pyrolysis is the thermal decomposition of solid fuel into volatile combustible substances. As it turned out (and the survivors have their own research centers with highly qualified specialists), the pyrolysis of wood fuel, especially wet wood, continues for quite a long time in the gas phase, i.e. The pyrolysis gases that have just been released from the wood still require quite a lot of heat to form a mixture that can burn out completely. This mixture was called wood gas.

Note: in RuNet, woodgas has created further confusion, because... in American vernacular gas can mean any fuel, cf. eg gas station - gas station, gas station. When translating primary sources without knowing American technical knowledge, it turned out that woodgas is simply wood fuel.

Before that, no one had seen wood gas: in conventional stoves it is formed immediately in the firebox, due to the excess energy of flaming combustion. The designers of long-burning furnaces came to the conclusion that the primary air needs to be heated, and the exhaust gases must be retained in a significant volume over a large mass of fuel, simply by trial and error, so they also overlooked wood gas.

This was not the case when burning bundles of twigs: here the draft immediately pulled the primary pyrolysis gases into the chimney. Wood gas could have formed in it at some distance from the firebox, but by that time the primary mixture had cooled, pyrolysis stopped, and heavy radicals from the gas settled on the walls of the chimney as soot. Which quickly tightened the channel completely; Hobbyists who build rocket stoves at random are familiar with this phenomenon. But the survival researchers eventually realized what was going on, and still made the necessary stove.

Who are you, the Rocket Stove?

There is an unspoken rule in technology: if it seems that it is impossible to create a device according to the given requirements, then, smart guy, read your school textbooks. That is, go back to basics. In this case, to the basics of thermodynamics. Survivors do not suffer from sick pride; they turned to the basics. And they found main principle operation of its furnace, which has no analogues in others: slow adiabatic afterburning of pyrolysis gases in a weak flow. In long-burning furnaces, afterburning is equilibrium isothermal, requiring a large buffer volume subject to the square-cube law and an energy reserve in it. In pyrolysis gases in the afterburner expand almost adiabatically, but almost into the free volume. And now we are learning to think like an American.

How does a rocket stove work?

A diagram of the final fruit of the survivors' labors is shown on the left side of Fig. Fuel is loaded vertically into the bunker (Fuel Magazine) and burns, gradually settling down. Air enters the combustion zone through the ash pan (Air Intake). The blower should provide excess air so that it is enough for afterburning. But not excessively, so that the cold air does not cool the primary mixture. With vertical loading of fuel and a blind hopper lid, the regulator, however, is not very effective, but the flame itself acts as a regulator: when it gets too hot, it pushes out the air.

Construction of rocket furnaces

Then things begin to become non-trivial. We need to heat up a large oven with good efficiency. The square-cube law does not allow it: the meager heat will immediately dissipate so much that pyrolysis will not reach the end, and the thermal gradient from the inside to the outside will not be enough to transfer heat into the room; everything will whistle down the pipe. This law is harmful, you can’t break it in the forehead. Okay, let's look at the basics to see if there is anything there that is beyond his control.

Well, yes, there is. The same adiabatic process, i.e. thermodynamic without heat exchange with the environment. There is no heat exchange - the squares rest, and the cubes can be reduced either to a thimble or to a skyscraper.

Let's imagine a volume of gas completely isolated from everything else. Let's say energy is released in it. Then the temperature and pressure will begin to increase until the energy release stops and freeze at a new level. Great, we have completely burned the fuel, hot flue gases can be released into a heat exchanger or heat accumulator. But how to do this without technical difficulties? And most importantly, how to supply air for afterburning without violating the adiabatics?

And we will make the adiabatic process nonequilibrium. How? Let the primary gases immediately from the combustion source go into a pipe covered with high-quality insulation with a low intrinsic heat capacity (Insulation). Let’s call this pipe a fire tube or a combustion tunnel (Burn Tunnel), but we won’t sign it (know-how! If you don’t catch up, give us money for drawings and consultations! Without theory, of course. Who sells fixed capital at retail.) On the diagram, so that not accused of “opacity”, let’s denote it with flame.

Along the length of the flame tube, the adiabatic index changes (this is a nonequilibrium process): the temperature first drops slightly (wood gas is formed), then increases sharply, and the gas burns out. You can release it into the accumulator, but we forgot - what gases will be pulled through the flame tube? Supercharging means energy dependence, and there will not be an exact adiabatic, but something mixed with an isobar, i.e. efficiency will drop.

Then we will lengthen the pipe by half, maintaining the insulation, so that the heat does not go away in vain. We bend the “idle” half up, making the insulation on it weaker; We’ll think about how to preserve the heat seeping through it a little later. In a vertical pipe there will be a temperature difference in height, and, therefore, draft. And a good one: the thrust force depends on the temperature difference, and with an average temperature in the flame tube of about 1000 degrees, it is not difficult to achieve a difference of 100 at a height of about 1 m. So, while we have made a small, economical stove-stove, now we need to think about how to use its heat.

Yes, it doesn’t hurt to further encrypt it. If we call the vertical part of the flame tube a primary or internal chimney, then they will guess the main idea, but we are not the smartest in the world. Well... let's call the primary chimney the most common technical term for vertical pipes with rising current - a riser. Purely American: correct and unclear.

Now let's remember about heat transfer after heating. Those. we need a cheap, always available and very capacious heat accumulator. There is nothing to invent here; adobe (Thermal Mass) was invented by the primitives. But it is not fire-resistant, it does not hold more than 250 degrees, and at the mouth of the riser we have about 900.

It is not difficult to convert high-potential heat into medium-potential heat without losses: you need to give the gas the opportunity to expand in an isolated volume. But, if you leave the expansion adiabatic, then the volume needed is too large. This means it is material and labor intensive.

I had to go back to basics again: immediately after leaving the riser, let the gases expand at constant pressure, isobarically. This requires heat removal to the outside, about 5-10% of the thermal power, but it will not be lost and will even be useful for quickly warming up the room during the morning fire. And further along the flow of gases – cooling is isochoric (in a constant volume); Thus, almost all the heat will go into the battery.

How to do this technically? Let's cover the riser with a thin-walled iron drum (Steel Drum), which will also prevent heat loss from the riser. The “drum” turns out to be a bit high (the riser sticks out a lot), but it doesn’t matter: we will coat it 2/3 of the height with the same adobe. We attach a stove bench with an airtight chimney (Airtight Duct), an external chimney (Exhaust Vent), and the stove is almost ready.

Note: the riser and the drum covering it look like a stove hood above an upward-extended heil. But the thermodynamics here, as we see, are completely different. It is useless to try to improve a bell-type stove by building on it - only extra material and work will go away, and the stove will not get any better.

It remains to solve the problem of cleaning the channel in the bed. To do this, the Chinese have to break down the kan from time to time and wall it up again, but we are not in the 1st century. BC. We live when kan was invented. We will install a secondary ash pit (Secondary Airtight Ash Pit) with a sealed cleaning door immediately after the drum. Due to the sharp expansion and cooling of the flue gases in it, everything in them that has not burned out immediately condenses and settles. This ensures the cleanliness of the external chimney for years.

Note: the secondary cleaning will have to be opened once or twice a year, so you don’t have to bother with the valve loops. Let's just make a lid from a metal sheet with screws and a mineral cardboard gasket.

Small rocket

The next task of the designers was to create a small continuous combustion stove on the same principle for cooking food in the warm season. IN heating season The drum cover (Optional Cooking Surface) of a large oven is suitable for cooking; it heats up to about 400 degrees. The small rocket stove had to be portable, but it was permissible to make it with an open firebox, because When it’s warm, you can cook outdoors or under a canopy.

Here the designers took revenge on the square-cube law by making it work for themselves: they combined the fuel bunker with the blower, see Fig. at the beginning of the section on the right. This cannot be done in a large furnace; precise adjustment of the furnace mode as the fuel settles (see below) will be impossible.

Here, the volume of incoming primary air (Primary Air) turns out to be small relative to the area of heat release and the air can no longer cool the primary mixture until pyrolysis stops. Its supply is regulated by a slot in the hopper lid (Cover Lid). The hopper, inclined at 45 degrees, optimizes the automatic adjustment of oven power for standard culinary procedures, but it is more difficult to make.

Secondary air for afterburning wood gas in a small stove enters through additional holes in the mouth of the riser or simply leaks under the burner if a cooking vessel is placed on it. If the small stove is close to the maximum size (about 450 mm in diameter), then for complete afterburning you may need an Optional Secondary Woodgas Frame).

Note: it is impossible to supply secondary air to the mouth of the riser of a large furnace through holes in the drum (which would increase the efficiency of the furnace). Although the pressure in the entire gas and smoke path is lower than atmospheric, as it should be in a furnace, due to strong turbulence, flue gases will be emitted into the room. This is where their kinetic energy, which is harmful to the furnace, comes into play; This is perhaps the only thing that a rocket stove has in common with a jet engine.

The small rocket stove revolutionizes the classroom camping stoves, especially tourists. A wood chip stove (Bond stove in the West) will help you cook a stew or wait out a snowstorm in a one- or two-person tent, but it won’t save a group caught in a spring hike by belated bad weather. A small rocket stove is only slightly larger; it can be quickly made out of nothing, but is capable of developing power up to 7-8 kW. However, we’ll talk about rocket stoves made from just about anything later.

Also, the small rocket stove gave rise to many improvements. For example, Gabriel Apostol provided it with a separate blower and a wide bunker. The result was a stove suitable for constructing a compact and fairly powerful water heater, see the video below. The large rocket oven was also modified, we will talk about this a little at the end, but for now we will focus on more significant things.

Video: water heater based on a rocket stove designed by Gabriel Apostol

How to sink a rocket?

A rocket stove with long-burning stoves have a common property: they need to be launched only onto a warm pipe. For a small one this is unimportant, but a large one on a cold chimney will only burn fuel in vain. Therefore, before loading standard fuel into the bunker after a long break in the firebox and kindling, a large rocket stove needs to be accelerated - fired with paper, straw, dry shavings, etc., they are placed in an open ash pit. The end of acceleration is judged by a change in the tone of the furnace hum or its subsidence. Then you can load fuel into the bunker, and it will ignite automatically from the booster fuel.

The rocket stove, unfortunately, is not one of the stoves that is completely self-adjusting to fuel quality and external conditions. At the beginning of combustion of standard fuel, the ash door or hopper lid in a small furnace is opened completely. When the stove starts to hum loudly, cover it “to the point of a whisper.” Further, during the combustion process, it is necessary to gradually cover the access of air, guided by the sound of the stove. Suddenly the air damper slammed shut for 3-5 minutes - no big deal, if you open it, the stove will light up again.

Why such difficulties? As the fuel burns, the flow of air into the combustion zone increases. When there is too much air, the furnace explodes, but do not rejoice: now the excess air cools the primary gas mixture, and the sound intensifies because the stable vortex in the riser is knocked into a chaotic lump. Pyrolysis in the gas phase is interrupted, no wood gases are formed, the furnace consumes too much fuel, and a deposit of soot cemented with bituminous particles settles in the riser. Firstly, this is a fire hazard, but most likely it won’t lead to a fire; the riser channel will quickly become completely overgrown with carbon deposits. How to clean it if you have a non-removable drum cover?

In a large furnace, a spontaneous change of mode occurs abruptly, when the top of the sticks drops to the bottom edge of the hopper, and in a small furnace - gradually, as the fuel mass settles. Since an experienced housewife does not leave it for a long time when cooking on the stove, the designers considered it possible to combine a bunker with a blower in it for the sake of compactness.

This trick will not work with a large stove: the high riser pulls very hard, and the air gap needs to be so thin (and it also needs to be adjusted) that it is impossible to achieve a stable stove mode. It’s easier with a separate blower: it’s easier for the air to flow around the sides of a mass of fuel that is round in cross-section, and a flame that gets too hot pushes it there. The stove turns out to be self-regulating to some extent; however, within very small limits, so you still have to manipulate the blower door from time to time.

Note: it is impossible to make a bunker for a large oven for the sake of simplicity without a tight lid, as is often done. Due to the unregulated additional air flow through the fuel mass, it is unlikely to be possible to achieve stable operation of the furnace.

Materials, sizes and proportions, lining

Now let's see what a homemade rocket stove should look like from the materials available to us. Here, too, we need to be careful: not everything that is at hand in America is what we have, and vice versa.

Of what?

For a large stove with a stove bench, more or less reliable experimental data is available for products with a drum from a 55-gallon drum with a diameter of 24 inches. 55 gallons is 208-odd liters, and 24 inches is almost exactly 607 mm, so our 200-liter is quite suitable without additional conversion. While maintaining the oven parameters, the diameter of the drum can be halved, to 300 mm, which makes it possible to make it from 400-450 mm tin buckets or a household gas cylinder.

Pipes will go to the ash pit, bunker, firebox and riser different sizes, see below, round or profile. This way it will be possible to make an insulating lining of the firebox from a mixture of equal parts of oven clay and crushed fireclay, without resorting to brickwork; We’ll talk about the riser lining in more detail below. Combustion in a rocket furnace is weak, therefore the thermochemistry of gases is gentle and the thickness of the steel of all metal parts, except for the gas pipeline in the stove bench, is from 2 mm; the latter can be made from a thin-walled metal corrugated sheet, here the flue gases are already completely exhausted both in terms of chemistry and temperature.

For external coating, the best heat accumulator is adobe. If the dimensions indicated below are observed, the heat transfer of a rocket stove in adobe after combustion can reach 12 hours or more. The remaining parts (doors, covers) are made of galvanized metal, aluminum, etc., with sealing gaskets made of mineral cardboard. Conventional stove fittings are not suitable, it is difficult to ensure their tightness, and a cracked rocket stove will not work properly.

Note: it is advisable to equip the rocket stove with a view in the external chimney. Although the gas vent in the high riser seals the overall smoke path tightly, strong winds outside can suck the heat out of the bench prematurely.

Dimensions and proportions

The basic calculated values to which the rest are tied are the drum diameter D and its internal cross-sectional area S. Everything else, based on the size of the available iron, is determined as follows:

Drum height H – 1.5-2D.
Drum coating height – 2/3H; For the sake of design, the edge of the coating can be made oblique and curved, then 2/3H must be maintained on average.
The thickness of the drum coating is 1/3D.
Riser cross-sectional area – 4.5-6.5% of S; It's better to stay within 5-6% of S.
The height of the riser is the larger the better, but the gap between its edge and the drum tire must be at least 70 mm; its minimum value is determined by the viscosity of the flue gases.
The length of the flame tube is equal to the height of the riser.
The cross-sectional area of the flame tube (fire duct) is equal to that of the riser. It is better to make the fire duct from a square corrugated pipe, so the furnace mode will be more stable.
The cross-sectional area of the blower is 0.5 of its own firebox and riser. A more stable furnace mode and its smooth adjustment will be provided by a rectangular corrugated pipe with sides 2:1, laid flat.
The volume of the secondary ash pan is from 5% of the original volume of the drum (excluding the volume of the riser) for a stove from a barrel to 10% of the same for a stove from a cylinder. Interpolation for intermediate drum sizes is linear.
The cross-sectional area of the external chimney is 1.5-2S.
The thickness of the adobe cushion under the external chimney is 50-70 mm; if the channel is round, it is counted from its lowest point. If the bed is on wooden floors, the pillow under the chimney can be halved.
The height of the coating of the stove bench above the external chimney is from 0.25D for a 600 mm drum to 0.5D for a 300 mm drum. You can do less, but then the heat transfer after heating will be shorter.
The height of the external chimney is from 4 m.
The permissible length of the gas duct in the bed - see next. section

Limit thermal power a rocket stove from a barrel is approximately 25 kW, a stove from a gas cylinder is about 15 kW. The power can be adjusted only by the size of the fuel load. By supplying air, the oven is put into operation, and nothing more!

Note: in the original survivalist stoves, the riser cross-section was taken at 10-15% S based on very wet fuel. Then, there, in America, rocket stoves with a bench for bungalows appeared, designed for air-dry fuel and more economical. In them, the riser cross-section is reduced to the recommended ones and here it is 5-6% S.

Riser lining

The efficiency of a rocket stove largely depends on the thermal insulation of the riser. But American lining materials, alas, are not available to us. In terms of reserves of high-quality refractories, the United States has no equal; there they are considered strategic raw materials and are sold even to trusted allies with caution.

From our available materials according to heating engineering, they can be replaced with light fireclay bricks of the ShL brand and ordinary self-excavated river sand with a large admixture of alumina, correctly laid, see below. However, these materials are porous; in the oven they will quickly become saturated with carbon deposits. Then the oven will roar with any air supply, with all that follows. Therefore, we need to surround the riser lining with a metal shell, and the end of the lining must be covered with oven clay.

Lining diagrams for 3 types of furnaces are shown in Fig. The point here is that as the size of the drum decreases, the share of its direct heat transfer through the bottom and unlined part increases according to the square-cube law. Therefore, while maintaining the desired thermal gradient in the riser, the lining power can be reduced. This makes it possible to correspondingly increase the relative cross-section of the annular lowering of the flue gases in the drum.

Schemes of riser lining in rocket furnaces

For what? Firstly, the requirements for the external chimney are reduced, because The external rod now pulls better. And since it pulls better, then permissible length The hog in the bed falls slower than the size of the stove. As a result, if a stove from a barrel heats a stove bench with a length of up to 6 m, then a stove made from a cylinder is half as long - 4 m.

How to line with sand?

If the riser lining is fireclay, then the residual cavities are simply filled with construction sand. There is no need to carefully prepare a river self-dug for lining entirely from sand; just select large debris. But they pour it in layers, in 5-7 layers. Each layer is compacted and sprayed until a crust forms. Then the entire backfill is dried for a week, the top edge is covered with clay, as already mentioned, and the construction of the furnace continues.

Balloon rocket

From the above, it is clear that it is more profitable to make a rocket stove from a gas cylinder: less work, fewer unsightly parts in sight, and the stove warms up almost the same. Thermal curtain or a warm floor in the Siberian frost will heat a room of 50 square meters with a power of 10-12 kW. m or more, so here, too, a balloon rocket turns out to be more profitable; a large barrel will rarely have to be launched at full power with maximum efficiency.

The craftsmen apparently understood this too; at least some. For example, here in Fig. – drawings of a balloon furnace-rocket. On the right is the original; the author seems to have wisely understood the initial developments and, in general, everything turned out right for him. On the left are the necessary improvements taking into account the use of air-dry fuel and heating the bed.

Drawings of a rocket stove from a gas cylinder

A fruitful idea is a separate supply of heated secondary air. The furnace will be more economical and the fire tube can be made shorter. The cross-sectional area of its air duct is about 10% of the riser cross-section. The oven always operates with the secondary completely open. First, the mode is set by the primary valve; Precisely adjust with the hopper lid. At the end of the firebox, the stove will roar, but here it’s not so scary; to clean the riser, the author of the design provides a removable drum cover. It, of course, must have a seal.

Rockets made from anything

Canning

Scheme of a rocket stove made from cans

Tourists, hunters and fishermen (many of them members of survival societies) soon adapted the small rocket stove into a camp stove made from empty tins. It was possible to reduce the influence of the square-cube to a minimum by using horizontal fuel supply, see the diagram on the right. True, at the cost of some inconvenience: the sticks need to be pushed inward as they burn out. But the furnace mode began to hold fast. How? Due to the automatic redistribution of air flows through the plenum and over/through the fuel. The power of a can rocket stove lies in the range of 0.5-5 kW depending on the size of the stove and is regulated by approximately three times the amount of fuel loading. The basic proportions are also simple:

The diameter of the combustion chamber (combustion chamber) is 60-120 mm.
The height of the combustion chamber is 3-5 times its diameter.
The cross-section of the blower is 0.5 from its own combustion chamber.
The thickness of the thermal insulation layer is not less than the diameter of the combustion chamber.

These proportions are very approximate: changing them by half does not prevent the stove from working, and efficiency on a hike is not so important. If the insulation is made of wet sandy loam, as described above, the joints of the parts can simply be coated with clay (left position in the figure below). Then, after 1-2 fires, the stove will acquire strength that allows it to be transported without special precautions. But in general, any of the available non-combustible materials will do the insulation, trace. two pos. A burner of any design must provide free air flow, 3rd position. A rocket stove welded from a steel sheet (right position) with sand insulation is twice as light and economical as a potbelly stove of the same power.

Compact rocket stoves

Brick

Rocket stove made from broken bricks

We won’t talk about large stationary rocket furnaces: all the original thermodynamics are in tatters in them, and they are deprived of one of the main advantages of the original furnace - ease of construction. We'll tell you a little about rocket stoves made from brick, clay or stone fragments, which can be made in 5-20 minutes when you don't have tins at hand.

Here, for example (see video below), is a thermodynamically complete rocket oven made of 16 bricks laid dry. The voice acting is in English, but everything is clear even without words. A similar one can be built from fragments of brick (see figure), cobblestones, or sculpted from clay. A stove made from rich earth is enough for one time. The efficiency of all of them is not so great, the height of the combustion chamber is too small, but it is enough for pilaf or to quickly warm up.

Video: rocket oven made of 16 bricks (eng)

New material

Diagram of the Shirokov-Khramtsov furnace

Among the domestic developments, the Shirokov-Khramtsov rocket stove deserves attention (see figure on the right). The authors, not caring about survival in the splash, used a modern material - heat-resistant concrete, adjusting all the thermodynamics to it. The components of reinforced concrete are not cheap; a concrete mixer is needed for mixing. But its thermal conductivity is much lower than that of most other refractories. The new rocket stove began to work more stable, and it became possible to release some of the heat outside in the form of infrared radiation through heat-resistant glass. The result was a rocket stove - a fireplace.

Do rockets fly in a bathhouse?

Wouldn't a rocket stove be suitable for a sauna? It seems like you can build a heater on the drum cover. Or a flow one instead of a bed.

Unfortunately, the rocket stove is not suitable for a bathhouse. To get light steam, the sauna stove must immediately warm up the walls with thermal (IR) radiation, and then, or a little later, the air by convection. To do this, the oven must be a compact source of infrared and a convection center. Convection from a rocket furnace is distributed, and it provides little IR at all; the very principle of its design excludes significant losses due to radiation.

In conclusion: to the rocket makers

Successful designs of rocket stoves still rely more on intuition than on precise calculations. Therefore, good luck to you too! – the rocket stove is a fertile field for craftsmen with a creative streak. Published

I like hiking. I also like to cook. But I have a negative attitude towards burning non-renewable energy sources.
So what alternatives can you suggest? Obviously, you can just light a fire, but this is not allowed in all places. I just need to heat up a pan of food. a large number of tree.

So I set myself the goal of making something portable and wood-burning.

I came across the idea of a rocket stove earlier this month, so the choice of device had already been made.

Finding a helium cylinder and cutting it.

The main part of a portable rocket stove consists of an old helium tank.
I found two from a friend of mine who recently had a wedding.
Empty the container. Helium does not burn, but opening a vessel under a pressure of 295 atmospheres is not the best idea.

Cut off the top and make a hole on the side. The size of the hole depends on the size of the fuel hopper.

Preparing the profile pipe

The fuel supply must be arranged in such a way that the flame freely reaches the top of the housing. You need to add a cutout in the profile pipe so that it can be more conveniently connected to the body.

Even when supplying firewood through the fuel hopper, we need to ensure free passage of air into the stove. For this purpose I used a metal grill taken from an old radio.

Support for structure

For the stability of the structure, it was necessary to make two legs for the fuel bunker.

I stapled everything together. Legs and grille to control air flow through the walls of the fuel hopper using locknuts.

The nylon nut ring will not be subject to excessive heat since it is located far enough from the firebox.

Spike for stability

To increase the stability of the stove, add a spike at the bottom of the cylinder. To do this, I welded a nut to the cylinder.

I made a through hole in the bottom part so that for ease of transportation, the tenon could be secured inside.

Heating surface

In order to place a pan on the stove, you need to make a heating surface for it. I made it from an old baking sheet.

This material is easier to work with and is strong enough to withstand even heavy kitchen utensils.

We carry out the first assembly of a camp stove

This is what the assembled oven looks like. I treated its surface with a special paint that can be heated to a temperature of 800°C.

We disassemble the oven

For transportation, all parts can be detached from the housing. All parts are sized so that they can be placed inside the oven, and so that they do not rattle during transportation (except for the heating surface)...

Let's use all the space

I found the sounds made by the disassembled heating surface during transportation to be irritating, so I filled the free space of the stove with firewood. So I came to the conclusion that it would be useful to have some dry wood for kindling.

Enjoying cooking outdoors

I tried frying bacon and eggs. You can even cook a whole pot of beans.

Thanks to the oven, you only need a couple of logs to fully cook a dish. And the wood will burn out completely, creating almost no smoke.

We increase the stability of the structure (hull)

It's time to improve the result of the work.

The oven turned out to be generally successful, but a little unstable. To improve this characteristic, I used a cable from a bicycle brake system, adding a hole in the housing.

When choosing the main functional component of a solid fuel heating system, in addition to efficiency, attention is paid to the duration of operating cycles and ease of maintenance. To implement the plan, taking into account the noted details, a rocket stove is suitable. Simplicity of design implies the absence of excessive difficulties in independent execution work operations.

Types of rocket stoves

Jet furnace diagram

The specific name is explained by the characteristic hum, which resembles the roar of the engines of a launching rocket. In more advanced designs, when the operating mode is correctly configured, the noise is reduced to a minimum level.

The classic diagram demonstrates the features of a reactive stove. In this design, fuel is loaded vertically. The flame is formed in a horizontal section. With a sufficiently strong air supply, the stream of heated gases quickly turns around the wall of the main chamber. This provokes a vortex effect in the central part (riser), increasing thrust. The walls are heated in the side channels. Residual heat is accumulated in the lining of the outlet pipe connected to the chimney. This part is traditionally created in the form of a couch.

The rocket furnace has the following advantageous characteristics:

high efficiency;
the possibility of using wood waste, cones, and other types of solid fuel;
prompt loading without interrupting the combustion process;
absence of complex elements;
minimum amount of waste (high temperature).

Jet stoves cannot heat a large room

For objectivity, it is necessary to note the disadvantages of the rocket stove:

the use of a water heat exchanger worsens the operating characteristics;
in certain situations, carbon monoxide may enter the room;
The power of the structure is not enough to fully heat a large property.

Not everyone likes the appearance of such a structure. However, this parameter largely depends on individual tastes. With the correct finishing, it is not difficult to ensure harmonious compliance with a certain interior style.

The jet stove in various modifications was used by the population of Japan, China, Korea, and other countries. Modern analogues, while maintaining the basic principles, differ:

variety of designs;
the use of new materials;
precise engineering calculations.

As an example, some stove makers mention Chinese kan. However, this design is similar only to a long chimney, which was often installed under several benches along the walls. In the corresponding version, this part performed the functions of a modern “warm floor” system. The firebox was created in a standard design with the obligatory arrangement of a stove for cooking.

Russian stove

With maximum simplification you can get the desired result:

pipes are connected at right angles;
a shelf for fuel is installed in the horizontal part - 60% of the diameter below the top edge;
the lower part of the hole forms an unregulated blower;
the device is equipped with supports for fixation on a horizontal surface in the working position.

Gas cylinder stove

Factory product made of high quality metal - good basis to create a homemade design. In addition to reliable welded joints, the gas cylinder has suitable wall thickness.

Oven and design diagram from a gas cylinder

When choosing components, you should use sheet metal with a thickness of at least 5-6 mm. The diameter of the main part of the structure is more than 30 cm. The door in the opening for loading fuel can be used to regulate the intensity of the air supply. This addition will prevent carbon monoxide from entering the room. If you plan to use the oven for cooking, cut off the top part of the cylinder along with the valve. The hole is covered with a steel plate more than 5 mm thick, which is joined to the main part of the body by welding.

In the version without a sunbed, residual heat is not accumulated, so the efficiency is lower compared to the “classic” version of the stove.

It is recommended to insulate the inner chamber. Sufficiently thick walls will help ensure the temperature rises to +950C° and above. This is necessary for high-quality playback technological process. This heating ensures complete combustion of the fuel with a minimum amount of ash.

Shirokov-Khramtsov furnace

This Russian modification is an improved version of the classic scheme. The main components of the Shirokov-Khramtsov furnace are created from an expensive type of concrete that is resistant to high temperatures. Accurate calculation significantly improved the stability of performance indicators, which made it possible to place heat-resistant glass in the bunker area to partially release infrared radiation towards the room. An improvised fireplace heats the room and serves as an effective decorative element.

Rocket furnace made of profile pipe

Travel version of the factory-produced rocket stove "Robinson"

For a hike, equipping a summer house, or solving other “temporary” problems, a mobile version of heating equipment is suitable. A relevant example is the Robinson oven. The supply of fuel and air is organized through a profile element (rectangular section 150 x 100 mm). The combustion zone is made of pipe. The divider at the outlet is used as a stand for heating dishes.

Other models

You can make a functional rocket stove with your own hands from 20 whole bricks and two halves. Such a structure can be assembled in literally ten minutes on a prepared, level area. No careful calculations or drawings are needed. Work operations are performed without welding equipment and building mixtures. Fuel consumption is approximately 3-6 times less firewood compared to a “potbelly stove”. Acceptable use raw firewood, branches, fragments of old furniture.

Simple brick oven

Unlike a fire, this design long time keeps warm. You can place dishes on the narrow opening. For convenience, a specialized support is used - a grid made of steel rods or cast iron. Even in this simplest version, a high temperature is created in the working area, which promotes complete combustion of fuel with minimal smoke emission.

Principle of operation

An ordinary fire does not ensure rational use of fuel resources. A significant part of the energy is uselessly evaporated into the surrounding space. There are no convection processes or heat storage. Precise regulation of the combustion process is impossible. The access of oxygen is not limited in any way.

Using a chimney and closed working area the noted deficiencies are eliminated. However, a jet stove is more efficient than a standard stove. The main difference is the chimney located inside the main structure. An increase in the path of gas escape is accompanied by a gradual decrease in temperature in different areas (example, values are given in C°):

central shaft (riser): 700-1100;
gap between walls: 250-380;
area under the bed: 30-90.

Improved draft in jet furnace design

The illustrations show design features that provide sufficient draft while increasing the length of the smoke exhaust path. Another advantage is the high-temperature decomposition of organic matter with a limited supply of oxygen (pyrolysis).

If a do-it-yourself rocket stove is created correctly, favorable conditions are provided for the formation of low molecular weight hydrocarbon compounds. Heating devices of this type can provide an efficiency of more than 90%. Similar solutions are used in the design of household boilers using long-burning solid fuel.

Homemade design

If you have no experience, you can choose a simplified design of several bricks, bent pipe. If you have the skills to handle a welding machine, create a furnace from a square profile and sheet metal.

Furnace drawing and dimensions

The presented option can be adjusted taking into account the volume of the room, other personal requirements and preferences. The developers recommend setting the diameter of the riser channel in the range from 65 to 105 mm. The dimensions of the shell are changed accordingly.

Drawing with explanations for assembly

To accumulate thermal energy, adobe was chosen. This material is not heat resistant, so the temperature must be reduced to a safe level. Additional recommendations:

the drum can be made from a standard 50-liter cylinder;
provide perfect sealing of the smoke exhaust system to prevent soot from penetrating into the porous adobe;
To remove residual mechanical impurities, a second ash pan is installed.

Step-by-step instruction

Homemade wood burning stove rocket

You can create a wood-burning jet stove with your own hands using the following algorithm:

To produce a mixture of the main heat-insulating layer (5b), crushed stone from chamotte brand ShL is used.
The support frame for the stove is assembled from wooden logs (100 x 100) with cells no more than 600 mm; the distance under the deck can be increased.
Mineral cardboard and tongue and groove boards are used for cladding.
Wooden blanks are pre-treated with impregnation with biocidal additives.
The area under the main part of the structure is covered with a metal sheet.
After placing the structure at the planned location, formwork is installed and adobe is poured.
A drum is made from a gas cylinder of suitable size.
To create reliable welded joints, electrodes with a diameter of 2 mm and a direct current of 60-70A are used.
The sealing seal is made from asbestos cord and fixed with heat-resistant glue.
A riser is assembled from prepared steel blanks.
A bottom layer of insulation is installed; plywood (20 mm) or boards are used for formwork.
Filling with construction mixture is carried out to level B according to the drawing. To ensure that this part is completely dry, room temperature it takes 1-2 days.
Install the firebox, controlling the accuracy of the vertical position.
Part of the blower will protrude outward, so at the final stage the wall is leveled with adobe.
After filling with the mixture to level G, it is recommended to speed up drying with a regular incandescent light bulb with a power of 60-75 W (placed under the riser).
An ash pan made from a steel sheet 0.8-1 mm thick is installed.
The drum tube is mounted, forming a wedge-shaped slope towards the outlet in the inner part (with mixture 5b).
A lining is created with layer-by-layer filling (5g), the plug is made of clay.
Continue assembly according to the diagram, install the corrugation, drum covers and ash pan.
After drying is complete (2-25 weeks), the formwork is removed, the surface is formed, and visible metal parts are painted.

Explanations for the composition of building mixtures (5):

a – adobe made of clay and straw, the consistency of thick dough;
b – medium-fat clay with chamotte crushed stone;
c – fireclay sand with clay in proportions of one to one;
d – river sand without washing with a fixed granule size (2.5-3 mm);
e – oven clay of medium fat content.

They purchase in advance the tools and consumables necessary to perform work operations. The purchase list is compiled on the basis of the prepared project documentation.

How to fire a rocket stove

Taking into account the long path of the smoke removal system in a stationary structure, the need to start the operating mode after preheating is understandable. When working with Robinson and other compact analogues, this rule does not need to be followed. But a large oven is first heated with dry shavings, paper, and other suitable consumables. For loading, use a blower with the door open. The degree of readiness is assessed by the characteristic attenuation of noise. At this stage, use the usual loading of fuel into the appropriate part of the furnace.