Hydrangea one of the most beautiful flowering shrubs. Lush spherical inflorescences, behind which foliage is almost invisible, cannot but attract admiring glances. And thanks to the relative non-capriciousness of hydrangeas, they will decorate even a neglected garden.
By the color of hydrangea inflorescences, you can determine the acid-base reaction of the soil on which it grows. On soils with a slightly alkaline and neutral reaction, plants will bloom pink flowers, on acidic soils - blue and even blue. And if you take care in advance to prepare the appropriate substrate and choose right place for planting a shrub, you can get the desired color of flowers. But in fact, the color of hydrangea flowers depends not only on the variety and soil pH. These plants need aluminum to produce the blue pigment. So a key factor in changing the color of the inflorescences is the presence of aluminum in the substrate. Most garden soils have adequate aluminum, but it will not be available to plants if the soil pH is high (above 5.5). The aluminum compounds present in the soil in an acidic environment are converted into soluble and available forms for plants. The aluminum is absorbed by the shrub, resulting in a blue flower. In neutral or alkaline soil, aluminum remains bound to insoluble compounds that are inaccessible to plants. The result is natural pink flowers. Thus, to obtain a hydrangea with blue inflorescences, you need two of the most important factors- acidic substrate and aluminum salts (usually aluminum sulfate).
There is one more nuance - phosphorus easily binds aluminum into hardly soluble compounds that are inaccessible to hydrangeas. In order to provide enough free aluminum for flowers, the phosphorus level must be kept to a minimum.
To get a rich blue tint, you need to do the following:
Measure the pH of the soil, it should be between 5.0 and 5.5. Only with such indicators, aluminum salts will become available for hydrangeas. Higher pH values will result in transitional colors with hints of purple. If the soil in the garden is neutral or alkaline, it is necessary to artificially acidify it in the root zone to a depth of 20-30 cm or replace the soil in landing pit previously prepared acidic soil. It is possible to acidify non-carbonate soil to pH 5.0-5.5 with high-moor peat or agricultural elemental sulfur before planting hydrangeas. Subsequently, a low pH is maintained by regularly watering the plant with a solution (15 g/l) of aluminum sulfate throughout the growing season. Do not water dry soil, moisten it well with clean water beforehand.
Purchase aluminum sulfate or potassium alum. It is recommended to apply dry aluminum sulfate in the following proportions: up to 0.5 kg of dry aluminum sulfate per 1 m². Or dissolve alum or aluminum sulfate in water and water the bushes once every one to two weeks, but not less often. At the same time, observe the proportions: 30-40 g of sulfate or alum should be taken per bucket of water. The norm for one adult bush is two or three buckets. Otherwise, the color will change partially.
To increase acidity, mulch the soil near the hydrangea with acidic materials - high-moor peat, coniferous bark. Do not use marble chips, expanded clay. Can be applied under the bush diluted Apple vinegar, sawdust, chopped grass.
The applied fertilizer also affects the color change. Fertilize with acidic complex fertilizers low in phosphorus high content potassium and average nitrogen levels, N:P:K ratio close to 10:5:20. Do not use superphosphate and bone meal, which are sometimes used for more lush blooms.
It is important to know that too a large number of the introduced alum can cause the death of the roots, so do not strive for a quick effect and follow the norms when diluting the solution.
The pink color of the hydrangea appears with a decrease in the acidity of the soil.
A hydrangea will produce pink flowers if it fails to form a blue pigment, which requires aluminum. This means that the aluminum in the soil must be converted into a form inaccessible to plants. To do this, the pH of the soil must be above 6.0. If the value is above 6.5, the plant may suffer from a lack of nutrients. It is not necessary to strive for the soil to be really alkaline, this is harmful to the plant itself. In alkaline soils, hydrangeas will be deficient in iron and magnesium, without which the formation of chlorophyll in the leaves is impossible. This manifests itself as interveinal chlorosis.
Add dolomite flour, chalk, fluff lime, or ground limestone to raise soil pH to 6.0-6.5. If the acidity is too high, they need to be applied several times a year. 
To maintain intense Pink colour feed the bushes with fertilizers with a sufficiently high content of nitrogen and phosphorus, but low level potassium. Phosphorus forms insoluble chemical compounds with aluminum, and the metal is not absorbed by the plant. Choose a type of fertilizer with an N:P:K ratio close to 25:10:10. Ammonium monophosphate (11:53:00) can be used.
In some cases, the soil throughout the area is very acidic, then it is more convenient to grow pink hydrangea in separate pots or containers, pouring landless substrates into them, for example, peat. There are practically no aluminum compounds in peat. In such containers it is much easier to maintain needed by the plant mode.
Plants that require acidic soil (rhododendrons, azaleas) should not be grown next to the pink hydrangea.
When your hydrangeas turn blue or pink, adding more soil additives will not help deepen the color. Color may vary from season to season due to weather conditions, plant stresses and environment. For example, plants planted near a concrete foundation or a concrete path may never turn blue due to lime leaching out of the concrete.
It should be borne in mind that the color change of the hydrangea occurs as the plant develops and matures, therefore, by planting, for example, pink hydrangea in acidic soil, you will be able to see blue inflorescences only after a few years.
If the natural garden soil is sufficiently acidic pH less than 5.5 and contains aluminum, the color of the hydrangea will automatically tend to shades of blue or purple.
If the soil in the garden is neutral or alkaline, it is necessary to artificially acidify it in the root zone to a depth of 20-30 cm or replace the soil in the planting hole with previously prepared acidic soil. It is possible to acidify non-carbonate soil to pH 5.0-5.5 with high-moor peat or agricultural elemental sulfur before planting hydrangeas. Subsequently, a low pH is maintained by regularly watering the plant with a solution (15 g/l) of aluminum sulfate throughout the growing season. Do not water dry soil, moisten it well with clean water beforehand.
Mulch the soil near the hydrangea with acidic materials - high-moor peat, coniferous bark. Do not use marble chips, expanded clay.
It is important that the irrigation water does not "contaminate" the soil with calcium. The pH of the water should not be higher than 5.6.
Soil alkalinity can rise significantly due to lime leaching from building materials. Therefore, the concrete foundation or sidewalk next to which the hydrangea is planted can affect the color.
Fertilizer also affects the color change. Fertilizing with a physiologically acidic complex fertilizer with low phosphorus, high potassium and medium nitrogen levels will help produce a good blue color. The optimal ratio is N:P:K close to 10:5:20. Do not use superphosphate and bone meal.
Difficult long time maintain a low pH value in alkaline carbonate soils, or soils contaminated with alkaline building materials. In this case, it is better to grow blue hydrangeas in large pots, using special acidic peat substrates with aluminum sulfate. 5-10% by volume of clay can be added to the substrate for aluminum enrichment. The best choice there will be a substrate ACID FOR CONIFEROUS PLANTS AND RHODODENDRONS. In a container, it will be much easier to maintain favorable conditions for growing blue hydrangeas, and you can also grow varieties that require shelter for the winter.
Add 1.5 g/l of powdered aluminum sulfate per liter of acidic substrate. Mix well, moisten and stand for several days. Another way - plants in pots should be watered with a solution of aluminum sulfate (concentration 10-15 g / l) at the rate of 100 ml of solution per liter of substrate. Control the pH of the substrate. For peat substrate optimal value pH 4.0-4.5. If necessary, repeat the procedure after two weeks. To avoid chemical burns of the roots, fill with a solution of aluminum sulfate only a pre-wetted substrate. Keep the leaves away from the solution.
Blue hydrangea is a flowering garden shrub. He looks great in landscape compositions, suitable for decorating hedges, decorating arbors, paths. Currently, many varieties have been bred that easily tolerate winter and delight with their flowering for many years.
A separate type of "blue hydrangea" does not exist. The plant got its name from the shade of its flowers. Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea, mainly, are covered with blue and blue inflorescences. There are two- and three-color species that change their shade throughout the season.
Besides, large-leaved hydrangea easy to repaint. It is only necessary to create the appropriate conditions. What varieties have blue inflorescences? How to choose planting material? How to grow hydrangea? You will find answers to questions in the article.
Varieties with blue flowers
As a rule, these are large-leaved hydrangeas. They differ in rounded inflorescences, long and abundant flowering.
Initially, Russian flower growers saw large-leaved hydrangeas in potted versions. These crops are not suitable for growing in open field. They just froze. And only much later were withdrawn frost-resistant varieties. Which ones have blue flowers?
- Hydrangea "Mini Penny".
Repair grade. It blooms on the shoots of the current year. It has juicy green foliage and pale blue flowers collected in spherical inflorescences.
- "Ramars".
Small compact shrub. Refers to multi-colored varieties. Some species are covered with purple or purple flowers. Others are spectacular bright blue and white.
- "Freedom".
Bicolor variety. At the beginning of flowering, against the background of saturated greenery, pink flowers. Then their middle becomes blue, and the edges become white.
- "Compeito".
A hybrid variety with large lilac-blue flowers, the center of which is white.
- "Perfect".
Rose-like flowers are pink at first. Then the hue changes to blue.
- "Hopcorn Blue".
A low bush up to sixty to eighty centimeters with tulip-like blue flowers. Blossoms on shoots of the second year.
- "Jomari".
Compact shrub with blue double flowers. Blooms also on the branches of the second year.
These are the most popular varieties. Many of them change color during one flowering period. Hydrangea pink can be purchased, planting and care provided in accordance with the requirements. And then the flowers turn blue. This is the nature of the variety. We just didn't pay attention to it.
Hydrangea color is easy to change. During the budding period, the bush should be watered with aluminum alum (for two liters of water - a teaspoon with a slide). Then White color will turn blue, pink - lilac, purple or blue-blue.
How to plant
Seedlings of three-, four-year-old shrubs are ideal for planting. It is better to buy them in specialized real or online stores. The root system of seedlings must be protected and hidden in some material. In the store, containers are used for these purposes. Growing consists of:
Hydrangeas love partial shade. Open sunny spaces do not like moisture-loving shrubs. In the shade, hydrangea blooms poorly, blooms later. This plant needs a golden mean.
When planning group plantings, it must be borne in mind that shrubs need space to grow and develop. The optimal free diameter around each hydrangea is two meters.
Beautifully flowering shrubs love acidic, moisture-intensive and loose soils. Such conditions can be provided in the following ways:
- bring soil from the forest (you need to dig the earth under the pines along with needles);
- mix equal amounts of high-moor peat, leafy and soddy soil, sawdust compost, sand.
Hydrangeas don't like lime in the soil!
The night before, dig a hole (width, length and height - half a meter). Pour in five buckets of water. The next day, add the prepared substrate, put the seedling, gently straighten the roots and cover them with earth. Water well and cover with needles or peat.
Care
Decorative, color saturation, elasticity of leaves and shoots depend on proper watering, pruning, top dressing.
Hydrangea loves water. With a lack of moisture, it withers, blooms poorly. If you give a few buckets of water under such a plant, it immediately comes to life.
The optimal frequency of watering is once or twice a week. Under each bush you need to give three to four buckets. If after watering the soil around the hydrangeas is mulched, then it is enough to water once every ten days. Mulch will retain moisture longer.
Conclusion: in no case should the soil around the hydrangeas be allowed to dry out.
Application of fertilizers.
large-leaved blue hydrangea loves feeding and responds very well to them. Fertilizers need to be applied depending on the period of plant development:
- at the end of spring - the first top dressing of superphosphate, potassium sulfide and urea (2: 2: 1.5);
- in the middle of summer (during the formation of inflorescences) - the second top dressing of superphosphate and potassium sulfide (2: 1);
- at the end of summer - the beginning of autumn (during the period of active flowering) - the third top dressing, organic (compost or rotted manure).
Conclusion: hydrangeas are needed mineral fertilizers; during active flowering - organic. Under no circumstances should you add ashes!
This is a mandatory step in the care of shrubs. Regardless of the variety. Arboreal, Grandiflora, Paniculata, Japanese, Phantom Hydrangea… Planting and care will not be complete without pruning.
Almost all varieties of large-leaved blue hydrangea bloom on the shoots of last year. This must be taken into account when cutting. It is important to keep the flower buds at the ends of the branches.
In autumn, do not touch the inflorescences. They will protect flower buds from winter frosts. They can be removed in the spring:
- in April, completely cut off a quarter of old shoots that are more than three years old;
- the rest have only last year's inflorescences;
- remove weak, diseased and excessively bare branches.
Conclusion: it is impossible to shred a large-leaved hydrangea, since inflorescences appear only on last year's branches.
Wintering blue hydrangea.
From the end of summer, actively water the plant. It should meet the winter strong enough. So that the shoots do not sag under cover, treat the bush with a Bordeaux mixture.
At the end of October, when slight frosts are observed at night, the hydrangea can be covered with perforated polyethylene or agrospan. In early November, tilt the shoots to the ground, cover with spruce branches or dry leaves. And put the box on top.
Conclusion: blue varieties of hydrangeas are prepared for winter, like roses (reliably protect from frost).
Indoor hydrangea, when grown and cared for at home, is a semi-shrub spreading plant, reaching a meter in height, with large oval leaves (10-15 cm long) with notches along the edges. Large inflorescences (about 35 cm long) are umbrella-shaped and consist of sterile small flowers at the edges and fruiting in the central part.
The color palette can be adjusted with the help of the soil: a more acidic soil turns the flowers blue, a neutral soil gives a white or beige color, and an alkaline soil lilac or pink. The hydrangea fruit is a box with a large number of seeds.
Types and varieties of room hydrangea
Hydrangeas white and cream
- Hydrangea Mme E. Mouillere - the diameter of the inflorescences is up to 20 cm, the flowers are from 1-5 cm, the leaves are narrow.
- – flowers correct form, the diameter of the inflorescence is up to 20 cm, the bush is 35-40 cm high. It blooms early.
Hydrangeas Pink
- - a bush, up to 70 cm high, inflorescences are rather large (30 cm) of a dark pink hue, the edges of the sepals are deeply cut. Starts blooming late.
- - It has small flowers(up to 5 cm) pink, collected in an inflorescence with a diameter of 16-18 cm. The bush reaches a height of 40 cm.
- - bush reaches a height of 50 cm, blooms large flowers(up to 6 cm) in inflorescences with a diameter of about 25 cm. It has abundant flowering.
red hydrangeas
- - burgundy-red inflorescences. It is possible to get a purple-burgundy color if you add iron salts or aluminum sulfate to the soil.
- - the diameter of the inflorescences is up to 18 cm, while the flowers themselves are small - no more than 3.5 cm, the height of the stem is 20-25 cm.
Hydrangeas blue
- - tall shrub with bright blue inflorescences.
- - This variety is distinguished by its compactness. Inflorescences up to 20 cm in diameter, have a feature: over time, the tips of the petals turn green.
Hydrangea room care at home
For hydrangeas, the correct temperature regime is very important. On the hottest days of summer, the temperature should not exceed 20°C, and in winter, not lower than 10°C.
Indoor hydrangea does not like direct hits sun rays, so the most comfortable place will be the south side of the apartment, at a distance of 1-2 meters from the window.
If you have garden variety, then you can familiarize yourself with the rules for planting and caring for hydrangeas in the open field.
Watering hydrangeas
In summer, frequent and plentiful watering is required, in spring and summer it decreases, and in winter it is practically excluded (just slightly moisten the soil, preventing drying out).
Water for irrigation should be settled or frozen (thawed), room temperature. In addition, we must not forget about the regular humidification of the air. Spray with a spray bottle.
Fertilizer for hydrangeas
Fertilizers are added once every two weeks during periods active growth(appearance of new shoots) and flowering. Mineral fertilizers are suitable for flowering houseplants.
Hydrangea changes color
Indoor hydrangea has another unusual feature, and in fact the ability to make a colored bush.
This is done using a different composition of the substrate, for example, by adding a solution of ammonia-potassium alum (4-5 / l) or iron salts, it will color the inflorescences blue, lime gives a pink or purple color, and white or cream flowers usually grow in neutral soil . Thus, you can make a multi-colored bush by adding different fertilizers to different parts of the pot.
Hydrangea transplant
A transplant of a room beauty is carried out every year, increasing the size of the pot by a couple of centimeters. Transplanting should be done with care.
Place drainage at the bottom of the new pot, sprinkle some new soil, then carefully remove the flower from the old pot, along with all the soil, and place it in a new place of residence.
Fill voids with fresh substrate and water. After that, a layer of peat is laid out on top for mulching (slows down the rate of moisture evaporation).
Do I need to prune hydrangea for the winter
Hydrangea pruning is a must. It is held twice a year.
- The first, after the end of flowering, before wintering, when weak, wilted shoots are cut to the ground, and strong shoots are cut in half.
- The second time, in the spring, when new shoots stretch out strongly in length, they are shortened so as not to weigh down the plant.
Hydrangea preparing for winter
The hibernation period, in hydrangeas, begins after the end of flowering. At this time, it must be removed to a darker and cooler place.
Having fulfilled this condition, the flower will have time to rest and gain strength after abundant flowering and from February the buds will begin to wake up (the plant can be returned to its usual place). Otherwise, the next flowering will come no earlier than a year later.
Propagation of hydrangeas by cuttings in autumn at home
Cuttings are the most reliable method of propagation. If this procedure is carried out in January-February, then by next autumn there will be a real bush of 3-4 shoots, and if later, the plant will only put out one stem. Cuttings with at least three internodes are cut from root shoots. The lower leaves are cut off, and the upper ones are cut in half (for large leaves) or a third (for small ones).
A shoot about 8 cm long, placed in a prepared substrate of peat and sand, watered and covered glass jar or circumcised plastic bottle, to provide moisture. Ventilate every day and do not allow the soil to dry out. After about a month, the plant takes root and can be transplanted into a separate pot, 8-9 cm in diameter is enough for a start.
Division of a hydrangea bush
The easiest way to divide a hydrangea bush. Carry out this procedure during the annual transplant.
To do this, the bush is carefully removed from the pot and divided into parts (the number of parts depends on the density of the rhizome), so that each has a sufficient number of roots and shoots. At each divided site, the roots and shoots are shortened and placed in new pots with prepared soil.
Hydrangea from seeds at home
Hydrangea seeds are sown at the end of winter, on a substrate previously prepared and poured into seedling boxes: a mixture of leafy, soddy soil, humus, sand and peat (1: 1: 1: 0.5: 0.5). It is not necessary to sprinkle earth on top.
Moisten and cover with glass or film. Air every day and moisturize as needed. With the advent of seedlings, the glass (film) is removed, the seedlings are thinned out. As soon as leaves (2-3) appear on young shoots, they are transplanted into separate pots (7-8 cm in diameter) with the same soil.
Diseases and pests
- Gray rot - affects the plant at too high humidity. Treatment: treatment with Bordeaux liquid.
- Spider mites and aphids - affects the bush with insufficient moisture. Treatment: wipe the leaves and shoots soapy water with a sponge, if it does not help, then in a week treat with actellik.
- Leaves turn yellow - insufficient watering, lack of nitrogen in the soil, or the soil is too alkaline, which causes chlorosis. To restore their strength and color, add to the water for irrigation inkstone(10 g/l) or ferrous sulfate (2 g/l).
- Hydrangea room begins to dry (ends dry) - due to insufficient moisture and watering, as well as lack of fertilizers. Correct the shortcomings, otherwise the next consequence will be the fall of leaves and buds. Therefore, do not forget to water, spray and fertilize as needed. Follow the plant, it will tell you.
- Indoor hydrangea does not bloom - this is a consequence of the fact that in winter the plant did not rest, but continued to grow and bloom, having spent a lot of energy. At the end of autumn, the bush must be cut and placed in a cool, dark place for wintering. And in the spring, get it back and continue the care, then the hydrangea will definitely bloom again.
- Brown spots appear on the leaves - lack of watering.
- Light spots on the leaves - an excess of light. Move the flower to shade. Hydrangea is afraid of direct sunlight.
- Slow flower growth – insufficient amount of fertilizers. Worth feeding.
A garden bush whose flowers form inflorescences of blue and pale blue is a blue hydrangea. Perennial perfectly complements landscape design- paths, gazebos, flower beds. Some varieties of hydrangeas are grown at home, others tolerate winter well. The blue hydrangea shrub is not a separate plant species. This name was given to the flower due to the shade of the inflorescences.
Large-leaved varieties can acquire different shades throughout his life. For example, Bela hydrangea is pinkish or deep pink, Nikko Blue is blue or blue. The color depends on the conditions in which the bush grows. You can create them yourself. How to do it? Consider in the article.
Several large-leaved flower species are able to acquire shades of blue and blue. They bloom for a long time in the form of neat rounded inflorescences. Previously, these crops could only be grown in heat. Over time, varieties have been bred that tolerate frost.
Popular varieties of blue hydrangeas:
Nikko Blue - description, methods of cultivation and care
spherical inflorescences blue color, which the blue hydrangea Nikko Blue is famous for, will delight the eye throughout the summer.
One has only to study a little the features of this variety and create conditions in order to get a noble blue color. What is a garden blue hydrangea, and how to properly care for it?
Description of the hydrangea variety
garden hydrangea large-leaved - a shrub whose height can reach 1.5 meters. Leaves and shoots are bright green. The next season after planting, the shoots become stiff and crack. The variety blooms white, over time it “repaints” in bright blue. The color in this case depends on chemical properties soil: at an acidity level of 5.5 - 7, the flowers become blue and blue, if the environment is neutral - pink. Buds that bloom at the very beginning of summer delight the owner with flowering until the end of the hot season.
Consider what conditions the hydrangea Nikko Blue requires: planting and caring for indoor and garden plants.
How is Nikko Blue grown?
Reproduction and cultivation of hydrangeas is possible both in garden and at home.
Miniature potted hydrangea propagates in several ways: from seeds, cuttings, dividing the bush.
It is worth remembering that growing a Nikko Blue hydrangea at home requires special soil for planting. It should be fertile and moist, contain peat, humus, leafy soil.
Proper planting of blue hydrangea in the ground requires more effort. A bush is planted in holes that are no less than one meter apart - for a full-fledged "life" this type of plant needs a lot of space. The dimensions of the holes are 30x30x30 cm. They are pre-filled with peat and humus by 1/3. Watering should be done with soft (preferably rain) water.
It is important to choose the right place: the blue-white hydrangea is the type of plant that loves the balance of light and shade. It follows from this that the most appropriate place for her - penumbra. In such conditions, it is easier for her to bloom.
Do not plant shrubs near trees - they take moisture vital for hydrangeas. If it is not possible to plant it near a house or other structure (which will create partial shade), you need to find a place that will provide a constant shadow for the base of the plant. Further "fate" and color depends on the care and correct use fertilizers.
Caring for potted Nikko Blue
Proper care of hydrangeas at home is a simple matter. It is only necessary to follow the recommendations:
Proper care of garden Nikko Blue
Like home, garden blue hydrangea requires abundant watering, fertilizing and compliance temperature regime. Nevertheless, the location of the bush on the open ground led to a number of factors that necessitate special care:
- superphosphate, urea, potassium sulfide (2:1.5:2) - at the end of spring;
- potassium sulfide, superphosphate (1:2) - when inflorescences are formed (mid-summer);
- rotted manure, compost - late summer-early autumn.
- Pruning. You can’t do without it when caring for a blue hydrangea in the open field. Flowers bloom on the last year's shoots, so flower buds should be kept at the ends of the branches. Nikko Blue is cut in the spring, this is not necessary in the fall (to protect the kidneys from winter frosts).
- Proper wintering. Water abundantly in late summer - this will help Nikko Blue to get stronger before winter. Processing with a Bordeaux mixture will keep the shoots from debate. With the first frosts (October), cover with polyethylene (perforated). Next month, bend the shoots and cover with dry foliage. Top with a box.
Create your own color
And yet, how to water the hydrangea so that it turns white from white to blue? The most common way to color hydrangeas is to water them with aluminum alum. This must be done during budding. Right Ratio: 1 heaping teaspoon per 2 liters of water. This method is suitable for room and garden hydrangea.
