What and how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands. Homemade concrete mixer or making the solution effortlessly Homemade manual concrete mixers with gears

It’s hard to even imagine any kind of construction without technological processes using cement mortars. And for owners of their own country house, with their constant state of “permanent” repairs and landscaping of the territory, concreting in general is a very popular operation - either garden paths need to be poured, then a foundation for a gazebo, then a blind area needs to be renovated, or a fence needs to be erected... In a word, concrete production is required at literally every step - the difference only in the scale of the event.

Many individual builders prefer not to bother with mixing the mortar themselves - this can be avoided if there is a reinforced concrete plant or other enterprise nearby that provides services for the production of concrete and its delivery to the work site. But, firstly, it costs a lot of money. Secondly, this opportunity is not available everywhere. And thirdly, it does not always make sense to resort to such services for reasons of the small scale of the construction or repair task - it will either be simply ridiculous or extremely unprofitable. It’s easier to make the required amount of solution yourself. This, of course, can be done manually, but it is better to purchase (rent) a concrete mixer or show yourself as a real owner: for the future, make yourself a concrete mixer with your own hands.

The article will discuss several homemade models concrete mixers - from the simplest to those that are not much different from the samples presented in stores.

A short excursion - what types of concrete mixers are there?

By and large, you can cook without any equipment at all. Some craftsmen even like to work “the old fashioned way”, mixing nt with sand and other components (if necessary), and then gradually adding the required amount of water. For this purpose, large containers with low sides, factory-made or even home-made, knocked together from boards and lined with thin metal, are used.

Mixing by hand - how much time do you have to do this?

Some people prefer to do without containers altogether, simply preparing the solution on a prepared, level area. However, in any case, the procedure of mixing first dry components with a shovel or hoe, and then with water, is a very labor-intensive process that takes a lot of effort at the preliminary stage, before concreting begins. And if the work is planned to be quite large-scale, then this approach will not justify itself.

Prices for concrete mixers Vikhr

concrete mixer Whirlwind

Construction mixers or drill attachments - these are more suitable for dry construction mixtures or composite polymer materials. Sand and cement for them is already a rather difficult “test”, and if there is still a need to add gravel, crushed stone or expanded clay of a large fraction, then the mixer or drill can be safely put aside: not only will you not achieve a high-quality, homogeneous mixture, but also and there is a high risk of overheating the gearbox or electric drive of the device.

Concrete mixers (concrete mixers) cope with this task, which differ not only in size, capacity and drive power, but also in the principle of their operation.

Forced mixing principle

Forced principle - the components of the solution are mixed in a stationary container. It is carried out due to the circular movements of the shaft with blades connected to a mechanical drive. (Work with construction mixer or a drill with an attachment can also be safely attributed to the forced kneading principle).

The installation layout may vary. Thus, the working drum can be a vertically located cylinder of small height, in which the paddle blades rotate on a vertical axis (as in the figure above).

Another option is when the container itself is located horizontally, and the shaft with blades is also oriented in a horizontal plane. Below is circuit diagram such a concrete mixer - who knows, perhaps it will serve as a prototype for someone to make on their own.

In the drawing the numbers indicate:

1 – drum body, in which the solution is mixed.

2 – a frame on which all components of the unit are mounted.

3 – Electric drive. In this case, with such dimensions of the mixer, the optimal power would be about 5 ÷ 6 kW.

4 – monitoring and control elements: power switches, indicator lamps.

5 – Bottom hatch(shutter) – for unloading the finished solution into a container placed below.

6 – lever for opening the shutter.

7 – safety grid installed during kneading.

8 – gearbox for transmitting rotation from the electric drive to the working shaft.

9 – belt drive protective cover.

10 – safety clutch.

11 – a working shaft with blades installed on it for mixing the solution.

Unloading of the finished solution can be organized according to a different principle - the working drum is mounted on the frame not rigidly, but hingedly. When mixing concrete, it is locked in the working position. And in order to remove the finished solution, a container removed from the stopper, and with the help of a special lever it rotates in the suspension axles. The solution is unloaded into the substituted container through the upper loading hatch.

Another scheme is somewhat simpler, with a lever for tipping the container

Forced action concrete mixers make it possible to achieve very high levels of solution homogeneity. They are actively used in industrial conditions, in construction, and in private practice. However, they are not without quite significant drawbacks:

In a working container, it is often impossible to avoid the creation of “dead zones” - along the walls, especially in the corners. It is not easy to fit the blades with a minimum gap to the inner walls of the cylinder, especially since under such conditions there is a constant increase in wear of the rubbing parts.
Structural complexity - reliable sealed protection of rotating units (bearing blocks) on the working shaft from the aggressive effects of cement mortar is required.
It is almost impossible to prepare a solution with medium or coarse filler in such a concrete mixer. But for plastering and finishing work, using ready-made building mixtures, this is the most optimal option.

Gravity mixing

The gravitational principle of mixing - the components of the solution are mixed under the influence of their own gravity. A good example– place in glass jar two different products, for example, two types of cereal, close the lid and start rotating - mixing will begin.

It is clear that this approach in its “pure” form does not provide high-quality preparation of the solution, or will require too much time to achieve an acceptable consistency. In industrial settings similar method is not used, but for home needs a small, simple concrete mixer can be made.

The drawing shows a can - it is convenient from the point of view of tightly closing the lid. But, in principle, almost any container can be used if the owner carefully considers the issue of securely closing it while mixing the solution.

The axis of rotation can be fixed outside the container - in this case, it is not necessary to ensure the sealing of the assembly as it passes through the wall. But it’s still better to make it through - such an artificial obstacle during gravitational mixing of the solution will somewhat improve its quality.

You can find a lot on the Internet interesting solutions for the manufacture of such simple concrete mixers from improvised means. Very often the old ones are used iron barrels. Making a stand - probably not a single good one home handyman There won’t be any special difficulties.

The most difficult thing, probably, is, again, to think through the issue of a tight-fitting hatch, which, when open, will allow loading of the mixture components and pouring water, and when closed, during mixing, will not allow the liquid solution to leak out. The approaches here may be different, but most often they use a door with welded hinges, the opening for which is sealed with rubber around the perimeter.

Some creative masters somewhat complicate the design in order to improve the quality of concrete mixing. So, for example, to increase the amplitude of differences in height, the barrel can be positioned not along the “correct” axis of the cylinder, but diagonally.

Rotating such a concrete mixer, of course, is somewhat more difficult, but uniform mixing of the solution will be achieved faster.

Combined principle

So, it was mentioned above that the gravitational principle of mixing in its “pure form” is not distinguished by productivity and high quality of the batch. You will probably hear objections - after all, it is believed, and many sources claim, that most conventional concrete mixers with a rotating drum located at an angle use precisely the gravitational principle. We can agree with this, but only by making one very important remark.

In such mixing devices, the blades are necessarily rigidly fixed on the inner surface of the working drum. Their configuration and size are thought out by the designers. When rotating, these blades move relative to the solution tending downward under its own weight. Thus, in this case it would be more appropriate to talk about the combination of two principles - both gravitational and forced. And indeed, this is exactly how the vast majority of cooking devices are designed.

There are several advantages:

No sealing is required, neither the drum itself (it is constantly open at the top), nor the rotation unit (since no contact with the solution is assumed here).
Part wear is significantly less.
Such concrete mixers are simple and reliable in operation, easy to maintain.
There are practically no restrictions on component composition solution - you can use crushed stone, gravel, expanded clay, etc.

The manufacture of a concrete mixer of this type will be discussed in more detail.

By the way, let’s return for a minute to those simple concrete mixers-barrels mentioned above. If you show a little ingenuity, it is also very easy to modernize them, dramatically improving both their performance and the quality of the mixed solution. To do this, it is enough to triple the blades or any other artificial obstacles on their inner surface.

One of the options is shown in the diagram. In this case, a comb is used, which is easy to weld from a corner and a piece of reinforcing rod. Two such combs will immediately transfer the concrete mixer from the category of gravitational ones to the “family” of more advanced, combined ones.

Vibration mixing of solution components

Not so often, but still some enthusiasts try to apply the principle of mixing concrete mortar using vibration. In industrial conditions, such installations give excellent results and are used for the production of highly precise reinforced concrete parts with the highest performance characteristics.

And at home, craftsmen try to use a powerful one as a drive (the main thing is that its vibration action is independent and does not require pressing the cartridge against an obstacle).

It turns out something like this:

1 – body of the container in which the components of the solution are mixed. Preference is given to round, not too large in radius, but high tubs (barrels).

2 – a bracket is rigidly attached to the body, which houses a vibration pulse generator, in our case a hammer drill (item 3).

The power of the hammer drill must be at least 1.3 - 1.5 kW. Even this will not guarantee success, and with less drive force, it is not worth trying.

A long rod (pos. 4) is inserted into the hammer drill chuck, which is connected to a vibrator (pos. 6). This rod must be of such length that the disc vibrator is located in height approximately in the center of the layer of the prepared solution (item 5).

It seems that everything is simple, but such a diagram does not always show good results. Mistakes most often lie in neglecting seemingly small nuances:

A flat vibrator simply won’t work. A shape is needed that will propagate vibrations in a dense medium from a central point almost spherically to the periphery. There should be something spindle-shaped, similar to two plates connected together with the bottoms facing out. In principle, this is one of the solutions - two metal plates mounted on an axis.
The diameter of the vibrator depends on the drive power. When making calculations, you can proceed from their approximate proportions: 150 ÷ 200 mm per 1 kW of hammer drill power. So, if we take a 1.5 kW hammer drill, then we prepare “plates” from 225 to 300 mm in diameter.
The diameter of the cylinder itself should be such that from the outer edge of the vibrator, placed exactly in the center, to the wall of the container there is a distance approximately equal to the radius of the plate.
To create vibration waves capable of handling the mixing of the cement-sand mixture, the level of the solution above and below the vibrator must be approximately equal to the diameter of the “plates”.

Vibration mixing concrete mixtures gives excellent quality solution. The process is very easily monitored visually - from active stirring, movement, bubbling - to a smooth, rippling surface (ready solution). But, you must admit that for this you need to comply with a lot of specific “whims”. And one more thing - “heavy” solutions with gravel or crushed stone are also problematic to prepare in this way. So this method is not widely used among private owners - it is easier to make a concrete mixer according to the “classical” scheme.

Self-production of a “classic” concrete mixer

It is necessary to immediately warn the “hot heads” - not everyone can take on the production of such a concrete mixer. Although in many articles there is a “bravura motive” that it is both easier and cheaper than buying a ready-made one, you still shouldn’t believe it.

- Firstly, you should not start such work if the owner knows about the art of welding only by hearsay or is involved in this field.

“Secondly, the work will be profitable if most of the components for making a concrete mixer can be found among unnecessary things in your own household, from neighbors or even in a landfill.

- Thirdly, the existing experience in design, production of plumbing, welding, electrical work and available inexpensive or even free materials must be multiplied by the expressed desire to make a concrete mixer yourself. There is a fairly large category of people who can’t wait to try to do everything with their own hands - this is a task specifically for them. If you start work without fulfilling such conditions, simply cherishing the ephemeral hope of saving something, then it’s better not to start. Time and materials will be wasted, and it will be much cheaper and easier to purchase a small and inexpensive concrete mixer - fortunately, the choice is quite large.

The general scheme of concrete mixers is approximately the same

If we consider almost any of these concrete mixers, then three main structural units always clearly stand out:

The container itself (tub) in which the solution is mixed, with all the additional mixing devices located in it.
Frame (frame, frame), which serves to place on it a mixing tub, an electric or manual drive, controls and, if necessary, means of movement. The frame must provide a movable hinged fastening of the container, the degree of its freedom both around its own axis and relative to the horizon with different angles tilt The structure itself can be stationary, or it can have wheels for moving around the construction site.
Drive is a mechanism that ensures rotation of the mixer container around its axis. In most cases, an electric drive is used. For small concrete mixers A manual drive may be sufficient. You can (rarely) come across options for installing internal combustion engines (gasoline or diesel) - then the concrete mixer will not be dependent on the power source. Any drive transmits torque with the number of revolutions required for the mixing technology through a gearbox (there are no restrictions - craftsmen use any type of transmission - gear, belt, worm, etc.).

Now let's look at the manufacture of all these units separately.

Mixing tub

When making a mixing container, it is assumed that during operation it is usually filled to a maximum of 30–40% of its total volume. Typically, these buckets are made with a volume of 100 to 200 liters. If you exceed these limits, it will be difficult to independently create a reliable, stable frame and equip a homemade concrete mixer with such a powerful drive. With small tank volumes, both assembly and operation of a concrete mixer often become simply unprofitable.

Prices for concrete mixers Enkor

concrete mixer Enkor

The easiest way, of course, is to find a ready-made container that is suitable in volume and dimensions as the main mixer. It immediately suggests itself se the same metal barrel.

The simplest approach is again a metal barrel

This option is entirely possible, but for a good concrete mixer, the cylindrical shape of the tub is not optimal. A lot of unmixed solution may remain in the corners around the bottom, and it is possible that the solution will splash out from above when stirring.

Do smooth transition d on the walls - a very difficult task, but probably any master can give the barrel a pear shape. Triangular cuts are made on top, and then the remaining “petals” are welded so that a uniform narrowing is obtained.

Improved barrel - the upper part is narrowed

An interesting solution was found by a craftsman who decided to adapt plastic barrel. Why not? Smooth curves of the shape are what is required for a concrete mixer container. It is quite possible to attach the blades to its inner surface, and the axis with the rotation transmission mechanism from the outside below, not by welding, but by screw connections. But what a huge gain in terms of the weight of the device itself!

An original approach - a plastic barrel

As a result, the designer of this model even made do not with a steel frame, but with a mobile wooden base– a trolley on wheels.

The height of a standard barrel for use as a concrete mixer container is still too large and complicates the alignment of the entire unit. Please note that in such cases, support rollers are usually used for stabilization - the high tub seems to roll along them, resting on its upper part.

If there is no suitable container, but sheet metal with a thickness of 2 ÷ 3 mm is available, then you can try your hand at self-production container, giving it all the necessary shapes.

Not to be unfounded, for those owners who consider themselves masters in welding work, we can offer an interesting drawing for the manufacture of a “classic” concrete mixer with a drop-shaped tub.

The overall dimensions of the container, without the connection unit with the gearbox, are 400 ÷ 500 mm. It would seem - not much, compact, but even only in the cylindrical part about 30 liters of solution fit - a completely acceptable indicator for a household concrete mixer.

1 – automobile wheel hub. You can make this part yourself, but it’s still easier to use a ready-made one.

2 - bottom of the tub. Cut from a steel sheet, preferably 5 mm thick. The figure below shows this position separately in an enlarged view. Holes (8 PC, with a diameter of 6.5 mm) must exactly coincide with the holes on the hub (pos. 1 ).

3 – the cylindrical part of the tub (shell) is welded from a steel strip bent into a ring, 2 mm thick, dimensions 150 × 1580 mm. All welds when assembling the tub are made continuous and sealed. It is advisable to strengthen the shell from above with a metal band ( tape).

4 — the conical part of the tub is welded from four identical parts. Their dimensions, including the radii of curvature in the upper and lower parts, are shown in the figure.

5 – along the top edge, the edge of the tub is flared outward, and By a steel rod with a diameter of 10 mm is welded around the circle (well shown in the diagram - node A ).

6 – “blades” - solution dividers - are welded inside the tub. In this case, the structure shown in the diagram, made of reinforcing rod with a diameter of 16 mm, will be quite sufficient. 3 pairs of such dividers are made and welded evenly around the circumference, every 120°. By the way, they should also give the tub additional strength. Each pair has one straight divider running from the bottom in the neck, and one curved at a right angle.

Bottom node ( B), which includes the already mentioned hub and bottom, is better shown in a separate, enlarged drawing.

7 – bolts connecting the hub to the bottom. The nuts are located on the outside. Between the parts there is a rubber gasket of at least 2 ÷ 3 mm (item 11).

8 – a screw with a washer that secures the hub to the output shaft of the gearbox (pos. 9 ). The hub is protected from turning on the shaft by a key (pos. 10 ).

Lower connection block ( B) is prepared, tried on, but mounted only after assembling the frame and installing the drive and gearbox on it. In principle, this will be one of the final operations - on a unit already mounted to the gearbox B the concrete mixing tank will be “seated” on the screws.

All welds must be descaled and carefully inspected to ensure complete leak-proof tubs.

Video: homemade concrete mixer with a tub welded from a steel sheet

Concrete mixer frame

In the manufacture of frames or trolleys for concrete mixers, the ingenuity of craftsmen who can adapt unnecessary metal parts and wheels for this design is also quite welcome.

The frames can have wheels, which means they can be easily transported to the right place. You can also make a stationary, motionless frame - it is easier to manufacture, and in conditions suburban area Usually, any larger movements of the concrete mixer are not planned.

Frames may also differ in the degree of freedom provided to the mixing tub. Thus, the container can be installed hingedly, changing the angle of inclination of its axis to the horizon as necessary - for solutions of varying degrees of “heaviness”, for dumping ready-made concrete, for washing the container, etc.

A simpler option is when the tub on the frame always occupies one position, and to unload the solution the entire concrete mixer tilts forward - like a wheelbarrow (as shown in one of the pictures above) or children's rocking chairs on arched runners.

Video: homemade concrete mixer with a swing-type frame

However, let's continue to consider the drawing of a concrete mixer, the manufacture of which was described above. It is quite possible to go along this path. The drawing, for ease of perception and for greater clarity in the size and arrangement of parts, is presented in two projections.

Concrete mixer - front view

Assemble such a frame from ordinary and profile pipes and scraps sheet metal– for an experienced fitter-welder it will not be something extremely difficult at all. Meanwhile, this design has been well tested - it is not heavy, but it ensures reliable stability of the concrete mixer in the transport and working position, and ensures maximum ease of operation.

She is a side view

1 - this is the same tub that was described in the previous section of the article.

2 – a lever handle for installing the tub in the desired position and for tipping it over when unloading. For a lever you can use steel pipe½ inch (½ʺ).

3 – a gusset cut from 3 mm steel (s 3) ensures reliable fastening of the lever to the rotating subframe (pos. 18 ).

4 – metal wheelsØ 350 mm. They are usually taken from decommissioned agricultural machinery.

5 – thrust legs with thrust bearings for stable installation of the concrete mixer in the working position. They are made of ½ʺ pipe (the stands themselves) and s3 steel (thrust bearings).

6 – cross beam concrete mixer frames. A profile pipe with a cross section of 60 × 20 mm is used.

8 - an inclined beam (pipe 60 × 20 mm), and for its rigidity - a strut (pos. 7 ) connected to the cross beam. For the strut - ½ʺ pipe.

9 – a panel to which the electric drive controls will be attached. The panel is cut from s3 steel.

11 – wheel axle. Made from a metal circle Ø16 mm - according to the size of the mounting hole available wheels

12 – longitudinal beam of the concrete mixer frame. Profile pipe 60 × 20 mm.

13 – vertical stand. Profile pipe 60 × 20 mm.

14 – eye of the hinged fastening of the rotary subframe. Two parts are made from s5 steel.

15 – transmission gearbox. IN this option– ready-made assembly, worm type, with gear ratio i = 17.

16 – safety clutch on the electric drive shaft.

17 – . Specifically, in this concrete mixer model, the developer used a three-phase drive (380 V), with a rated power of 1 kW, and a rotation speed of 950 rpm.

18 – a swinging subframe on which both the electric drive with the gearbox and the mixing tub itself are mounted. It is made from the following parts: two spars from a ¾ʺ pipe, four cross members from a 35 × 35 mm angle.

19 , 20 And 21 – electric drive control elements: start button, capacitor box and power cord with a three-phase socket, respectively.

Now - a slightly larger knot A, which ensures installation and fixation of the mixing tub in the desired position.

On a stretcher (pos. 18 ) the eye is welded (pos. 22 ), and on the inclined stand (pos. 8 ) – sector (pos. 10 ). Both the eye and the sector can be made of s3 steel. The selected position is fixed with a pin (pos. 23 ), and so that it does not get lost, it is recommended to hang it on a chain.

The number of fixed positions in a sector may vary. However, it is usually enough T reh:

– at an angle of 50° to the horizontal – for mixing heavy concrete solutions;

– at an angle of 30 ° - for preparing light mortars (for example, masonry);

– horizontally – for washing the tub.

After assembling the frame, all welds are removed from slag, the parts must be cleaned of corrosion. Then it is recommended to cover the structure with high-quality metal paint. The rubbing components of the frame (subframe suspension in the frame lugs, wheel axles) are generously coated with conventional hinge grease.

In the variant under consideration, the drive and gearbox unit are attached to the subframe (so that precise alignment is maintained). After checking the functionality (test run), you can finally assemble the concrete mixer by placing the mixing tub in place and securing it with bolts.

A few words about the drive

In the example under consideration, the electric motor and gearbox already recommended by the model developer were used. However, in the practice of self-manufacturing concrete mixers, it is very common There is a situation when a master “on the fly” selects a drive from what is available and comes up with a way to transmit torque to the mixing tank.

It is customary to calculate the required electric drive power based on the ratio of 20 W per liter of solution in a scheme with an inclined tub. (When positioned horizontally, for example, in models with a barrel on a horizontal axis, 15 W/l will be sufficient). You should not forget about this ratio so as not to overload the drive. For example, if the engine in our case has a power of 1 kW, then you should not mix more than 50 liters of solution, regardless of the size of the tub itself.

Thus, often the tub itself begins to be manufactured, starting from the parameters of the drive that is planned to be installed on the concrete mixer.

The rotation speed of the mixer bucket should also be within certain framework . So, it is considered optimal from 30 to 50 rpm. To make the speed lower is to deliberately delay the process of making the solution. And if the speed is too high, the solution will begin to splash.

Find a ready-made gearbox that would meet the requirements both in terms of dimensions and gear ratio– it doesn’t always work out. Therefore, many masters find their own, sometimes very original ways transmitting torque to ensure the required angular velocity. In the version that was considered, the mixer is mounted directly on the driven axis of the gearbox. However, often the tub is installed on a free axle, and the torque laneeats on it by gear, belt, chain transmission. For example, here are a few original solutions:

Instead of pulleys - bicycle wheels

Homemade gearbox - drive from old washing machine transmits rotation by belt drives through pulleys of their gears and old bicycle wheels.

The simplest frame with a homemade gearbox

Fixed frame for a concrete mixer with a homemade gearbox.

A homemade gearbox that combines a belt and two chain drives. Again, there were some bicycle parts.

A small-sized concrete mixer, the rotation of which is transmitted directly to the bucket through a belt drive. The pulley is structurally located on the mixing tank itself.

Very often used unnecessary in the garage car parts. A popular solution is to use a flywheel with a ring gear. By the way, it is very easy to find a pair of drive gears - from the Bendix starter of the car, since they are “made for each other”.

The flywheel can be completely welded to the bottom of the tub.

Another option is when only the ring gear is used. There is probably no need to say that in this case it is extremely important point There will be a very careful alignment of it.

In a word, a thrifty owner can very often find parts for his own original solution the question of manufacturing the required gearbox. Perhaps the options shown will be a good hint for someone.

Video: another design option for a concrete mixer

Prices for concrete mixers Stroymash

concrete mixer Stroymash

If everything worked out, then the owner can be congratulated on successfully finding a good “helper”. But in order for the concrete mixer to last longer and not cause any emergency incidents, you need to adhere to certain rules:

Like any equipment associated with the consumption of electricity, a concrete mixer requires compliance with electrical safety rules. And in this case, this issue is even more acute, since operation is always carried out in conditions high humidity and a high probability of water splashing. That is, all cables and contact connections must have the most reliable insulation, completely eliminating electric shock or short circuit.
The operation of a concrete mixer is always associated with high levels vibrations. This leads to loosening of threaded connections, which means they need to be checked and tightened regularly. At the same time, one should not forget to monitor the safety of other components and parts, welds, etc.
Before starting work, you need to make sure that the concrete mixer is installed securely. It should rest tightly on all of its standard stands. If the structure is mobile, then wheel chocks (wedges) are placed under the wheels.
Never, under any circumstances Not Do not leave a running concrete mixer unattended. Curious people, and especially children, should not be allowed near her.
When working, it is better to use skin and eye protection, since cement has a rather aggressive effect on tissues and mucous membranes.
Checking the quality of the resulting solution with a shovel or stick while the concrete mixer is running is the height of imprudence! Very often such actions end in serious injury to the hands or face.

And in conclusion, the article is proof that there are no limits to creativity when creating homemade equipment.

Video: homemade concrete mixer based on an old T-16 tractor

This article is suitable for any amateur builder who, in his free time from his main job, is trying to arrange a home for himself. summer cottage. In construction you cannot do without concrete. Even if you are making a house from wooden beams, you will definitely need a reinforced concrete foundation or piles. And after kneading the concrete solution in a bucket or trough with your hands a couple of times using a drill or shovel, an inquisitive mind begins to look for less labor-intensive methods.

There are several options. You can order home delivery and the concrete mixer truck will deliver it the next day required amount cubic meters Perhaps this option is not entirely economical. More industrious owners can buy a concrete mixer; it is compact and equipped with an electric motor for mixing the solution. Throw cement, sand, water and crushed stone into it in the required proportions, and only have time to empty the concrete mixer by pouring the solution out of it. It's cheaper, but you still have to buy such a concrete mixer.

But there is another option: make a concrete mixer with your own hands. Yes, this is possible if there are drawings. You will spend time on this, but it will more than pay off for you. Moreover, the device is not as complicated as it seems at first glance. The concrete mixer has a simple principle:

there is a tub or something like a flask in which the solution is mixed;
drive, that is, the mechanism due to which the tub rotates and mixing occurs;
the frame that holds it all together.

The concrete mixer has additional small parts, which will be discussed below, but these three are the main ones. Now let's delve into the nuances of making a homemade concrete mixer.

What types of concrete mixer are there?

Based on the mixing method, concrete mixers are mainly divided into four types: gravity, mechanical, vibration and combined. Let's tell you a little about each one so that you have a little idea about it and so that you can choose the one that suits you. After all, it can be used for absolutely different needs: basically this is the foundation (of a house, a fence and much more), but various building materials can be cast from it into shape. Blocks made of cement, wood concrete and other things.

Gravitational

A unit of this type is the simplest option both to manufacture and to use. Do-it-yourself manual concrete mixer, the tub of which simply rotates along an axis, and the components of the solution are mixed under the influence of gravity. This option is not suitable for large volumes because it does not provide good mixing. But if you have always mixed the solution in small quantities and did not need more, then this option may well be suitable.

Mechanical

Such a homemade forced-action concrete mixer in its pure form is rarely used because it has a number of disadvantages. It looks like this: a barrel in a horizontal position with a hole at the top along its entire length. The axis runs through the center of the barrel, and metal parts are welded to it, which mix the solution. The hole does not allow the barrel to be rotated in only one direction and you have to swing it from side to side. Compared to gravity, it has a larger volume, which is a plus. The disadvantages are: poor mixing in the corners and splashing of the solution with high vibrations.

Sometimes mechanical concrete mixers are made absolutely motionless; only the axis inside it moves, to which metal dividers are welded. This design is well suited for the manufacture of wood concrete blocks. We'll talk about this below.

Vibrating

Making this type of manual concrete mixer with your own hands is not such a simple matter. The basic principle is that the solution remains stationary and all the work of mixing is assigned to the vibrator. There are many nuances here, which, if not taken into account, will only lead to wasted time.

The tub must be round, not wide, but high, similar to the shape of a Soviet washing machine. The vibrator must be of a strictly defined shape, similar to two low plates placed together. Actually, at home, two metal plates are the best option. The vibrator should not be too large; its size depends on the volume of the mixing vessel. If you overdo it in choosing the size, then even with visible work it will still not mix. And the last thing: the location of the vibrator inside the vessel is strictly along the axis, the distance to the bottom of the barrel is equal to the diameter of the vibrator.

If all these conditions are met, the ideal solution from your barrel is guaranteed. But if the quality of sand or cement is poor, you will have to mix it a little longer. One drawback: high power consumption. And under no circumstances try to use a hammer drill as a drum vibrator. Many craftsmen have tried to make a concrete mixer, but most often they fail.

Combined concrete mixer

This type of concrete mixer is a combination of gravity and mechanical installation. The solution rotates in a horizontal or inclined plane, and protrusions are made inside the vessel itself, which further help to mix the components. They are usually made from metal plates of various shapes, which are welded to the inside of the flask. This type of concrete mixer allows you to mix a large volume of solution, and the mixing quality is also good. It will not be possible to weld the plates into a concrete mixer a lot of work, therefore this type is the most widely used. In the future, we will talk specifically about this type of concrete mixers.

We make a concrete mixer

The theory is over. Let's start practicing. Now we’ll take a closer look at how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands. This process must be divided into several stages. We know that a concrete mixer consists of three main components: the mixer bucket, the drive and the frame. If everything is clear with the drive, it can be either manual or mechanical, when a concrete mixer uses a gearbox and an electric motor, then we will dwell on the manufacture of the bucket and frame in more detail. If you have drawings at hand when working, that will be great.

Making a tub

The most popular item used as a mixing vessel is standard 200 liter barrels. With some reservations, it is suitable for any type of homemade concrete mixer. You can use the washing machine body if it is strong enough. But that would be too simple; our goal is to make the tub ourselves.

Firstly, the material. For walls we take metal with a thickness of at least 2 mm, for the bottom - at least 5 mm. Secondly, the form. It is cylindrical, but at the top in the neck area it should taper into a cone.

Let us describe the sequence of actions point by point:

We make a hub flange. You can find its drawings and make it yourself, but it is better to buy a ready-made one. The part is important, but not easy to manufacture.
We make the bottom from sheet steel with a thickness of at least 5 mm. We drill holes in the very center and attach the hub flange.
We cut out five main parts of the body from metal 2 mm thick - the shell (it is rolled up to form a cylinder) and four petals, which are then fastened together to form a cone.
We connect the bottom, shell and cone using welding machine and get the base of the barrel for mixing.
We strengthen the neck so that it does not become deformed later. To do this, we weld a 10 mm reinforcing rod to its circumference.
We weld cutters crosswise inside the barrel. Usually two or three are enough. They are also made from reinforcement, but more durable, or from metal plates. The main thing is to bend them at a right angle. They will mix the solution. In addition, due to them, a homemade concrete mixer will be stronger.

When the mixer tub is ready, you can begin making the frame.

Frame making

The frame is the support of the entire structure. The tub, drive and gearbox are attached to it. For good stability, the support legs are welded, and to make it easy to move the concrete mixer, even when filled with mortar, wheels are installed. The design of the frame itself can be different, the main thing is that stability is maintained during operation of the entire device. For this purpose, many craftsmen adapt various unnecessary metal parts collected from the corners of their summer cottage.

The concrete mixer is based on a T-shaped structure, due to which the homemade concrete mixer will stand stably on the surface. The first post is welded vertically to it.
A transverse beam is welded to the second rack, along the edges of which the wheels are attached.
Both racks are fastened together at the bottom with a beam (this makes the structure more stable) and at the top with a subframe, which will subsequently serve as the basis for attaching the tub.
The frame is reinforced with an inclined stand, to which the capacitor box and starter are attached. These two devices are used to turn on the rotation mechanism.
The subframe is made of two pipes and a corner. It looks like a double frame held together by lintels.
The electric motor and gearbox are installed on the subframe.
The hub flange, which is already attached to the tub, is placed on the gearbox. To fix the mixer, a key is used and it is finally secured with a bolt through the hole on the shaft.
A handle is attached to the stretcher, which allows you to tilt the mixer tub at different angles.
Finally, the frame is protected from scale and coated with metal paint. The tub can also be painted, but only on the outside, there is no need to paint the inside of the barrel.

Now your DIY concrete mixer is ready to use! You can pour a foundation, install pillars, fill molds for wood concrete building blocks, and much more.

Drive for a homemade concrete mixer

In practice, it often happens that the master already has an electric drive and gearbox of a certain power, and the concrete mixer and its parameters are selected based on this. The ratio of the volume of mixed components and the power of the electric motor should be approximately: 20 W per 1 liter of solution.

That is, if you have a 1 kW engine at your disposal, then the maximum volume of the mixture should be 50 liters. Considering that the tub needs to be loaded at 30-40%, its approximate volume can be from 125 to 160 liters. For standard 200 liter barrel A gearbox with a 1.2 kW electric motor is suitable; the load will be equal to 60 liters of solution.

The number of revolutions is also important. Optimal value: from 30 to 50 rpm. If you do more, the solution may splash. You can do less, of course, but then the mixing process will be long and excess electricity will be consumed.

If there is no electricity

There are times when you need to start construction on a site where electricity has not yet been installed. Then we don’t need the engine, but we will use manual force. The sequence of actions during manufacturing remains absolutely the same, only the drive is replaced by two handles - on one side and the other. The disadvantage is that you have to put more effort into mixing and it will take longer. But for short and small jobs this option can be considered quite acceptable.

Washing machine tub

You can make a tub from a washing machine if you have one lying around from Soviet times. Moreover, the body of almost any washing machine is suitable for this. You just need to solder all the holes in the drum of the old washing machine. A machine with both horizontal and vertical loading is suitable for this. There is one more feature of this option. If the amount of mortar that you are going to mix in the future concrete mixer is not too large, then the washing machine engine will be quite suitable as a drive.

Using a concrete mixer

The concrete mixer is rarely used in one place. Often you have to carry it or roll it around the entire area, so prepare an extension cord of sufficient length in advance. The components are loaded into a tub with an inclination of 20-40 degrees in the following order: water, cement, sand, and lastly crushed stone, gravel, and expanded clay are poured.

To completely mix the concrete solution or wood concrete mixture, 3 to 5 minutes are enough, then the tub is tilted using the handle and the solution is poured into the place prepared for this. You can immediately add a new portion of components and continue working.

After a day of work, the device, all its connections and seams must be thoroughly washed. Usually this happens in the evening, when there is not much strength left and you want to leave everything, because the next day you will have to get it dirty again. Don't be lazy. Even in such a situation, it is better to wash the concrete mixer, this will increase its service life.

Wood concrete blocks consist mainly of two components. In addition to various chemical additives, this sawdust and wood chips, as well as the hydraulic binder Portland cement. Such blocks are valuable because houses made from them retain heat well. Therefore, wood concrete blocks are an excellent solution for building walls. warm home. As for the properties of wood concrete, it is low thermal conductivity, increased bending strength, does not support combustion, and is easy to process.

Imagine that everything worked out for you and now you are the owner of a very useful thing in construction - a concrete mixer. But so that its service life does not end with just a foundation or a fence, and the thing serves you for a long, long time, you will have to follow safety rules and take care of it:

Pay close attention to cables and contact connections. They must be securely insulated. The work takes place in conditions of high humidity and splashing water, so the requirements of electrical safety rules come first;
The vibration that accompanies the work of the concrete mixer relaxes the threaded connections of your improvised bucket. Therefore, periodically check them and tighten them. And don’t forget about welds, they can also break;

Before turning on the device, make sure it is stable. All standard stands should rest firmly on the ground, and it is advisable to install wheel chocks under the wheels;
It is impossible to check the quality of the solution while the concrete mixer is operating; cases of serious industrial injuries are not uncommon;
Use skin and eye protection;
Never leave a running concrete mixer unattended.

Conclusion

In conditions of total economy, when the budget is construction works limited, and this is no wonder these days, many skimp on quality building materials or using the services of third-party masters. But there are craftsmen who also save on construction equipment. Of course, do a drill or electric plane- a dubious occupation. But the concrete mixer, despite its apparent complexity and bulkiness, is ideal for this, even for home production wood concrete blocks. You could see this in our article.

Let's summarize. A small number of parts, some of which can be found right on your site. Homemade concrete mixer It has simple diagram, drawings and manufacturing sequence. You also need a few tools: a grinder, welding, work with a drill, and possibly a soldering iron. From Supplies: bolts, nuts, washers, a metal sheet and a corner. The main thing is to clearly define in advance why you need it and what you want to see as a result of your work. Then your concrete mixer will not be inferior to any industrial production, even if it is made from the body of a washing machine.

Any concrete mixer (including a mixer based on a Kamaz vehicle) is designed to optimize, facilitate and speed up the work process on a construction site. Sometimes it makes more sense to order a Kamaz with a ready-made solution. In some cases, you can prepare the concrete by hand. But even if the volumes of solution you need are small, and you have enough strength to mix the mixture in a trough with a shovel, our good advice is to buy a concrete mixer or rent one. The design of a concrete mixer depends on the expected load, continuous operation time and the amount of solution.

Classification of concrete mixers

All devices designed for preparing and mixing concrete mortar can be divided into two main types according to the principle of their operation:

gravitational;
forced type.

The operating principle of a gravity-type concrete mixer is based on the rotation of a drum, on the walls of which splitter blades are rigidly fixed. When the drum rotates, the blades pick up the mixture and lift it up, preventing it from sliding along the surface of the container; under the force of gravity, the components fall down and rise again with blades. Thorough mixing of the solution is carried out by repeating the process many times.

How does a forced-type concrete mixer work: the container for mixing the solution is stationary, and mixing of the solution occurs due to the rotation of the blades mounted on an axis inside the drum. But such devices consume a large amount of energy (for example, a standard 250 liter concrete mixer has a motor with a power of about 5500 W), which makes their use personal plots problematic. Therefore, these concrete mixers are considered professional and are rarely used for domestic needs. In addition, their price is much higher than that of gravity ones.

Gravity-type concrete mixers with a tank capacity of 100 to 200 liters make it possible to obtain from 60 to 120 liters of ready-made solution in one batch. They are quite simple and easy to use, which is why they are very popular.

There are two types of drum rotation drive for gravity models:

coronary;
gearbox

In the first type, rotation from the engine to the drum is transmitted through the drive gear and ring gear, which is located around the entire circumference of the container from the outside. The disadvantages of such a drive include wear of the crown teeth, which are not protected from external influences, but replacing this structural element is not very difficult.

Geared gravity-type concrete mixers are considered more reliable, since all drive elements are located inside protective casing. However, if the gearbox itself fails, this element must be replaced completely, which leads to financial costs. The models themselves with a gearbox cost 30-40% more than similar concrete mixers with a crown drive (with the same productivity).

Design of a gravity concrete mixer with a drum crown drive

Let's take a closer look at the design of a gravity concrete mixer with a crown drive, which rotates the drum using an electric, gasoline or diesel engine. Of these, the most common type is an electric motor powered by a 220 V network. In the case where complete autonomy of the concrete mixer is required (for example, when the networks for supplying electricity have not yet been connected), models with internal combustion engines are used.

The main part of the concrete mixer is the drum. The blades are fixed on its walls. An axle is attached to the bottom of the drum, which is mounted on a traverse through a bearing. Along the entire circumference of the drum in the central part there is a crown (an encircling round toothed gear), through which rotation from the engine will be transmitted to the drum.

The traverse with the drum attached to it is fixed to the support frame (through bushings and rolling bearings). On one side of the frame there is a mechanism for tilting the container with a lock to create the required working angle and the possibility of unloading the finished solution. On the other side, an electric motor block and a working gear are attached.

Rotation from the engine is transmitted to the working gear (usually using a belt drive), which meshes with the drum ring gear. Thus, the rotation of the gear sets the drum in motion and the solution is mixed.

Fundamental electrical diagram household concrete mixer is quite simple and consists of:

electric motor;
starting capacitor;
start-stop switch;
circuit breaker for protection against short circuits and overloads (for some models it is combined with a switch).

The electrical part of the concrete mixer is presented in detail in the video:

For many models, the frame is equipped with 2 (sometimes 4) wheels, which makes moving the device around the site much easier.

The difference between concrete mixers with a gear drive is that the motor and gearbox are attached to the bottom of the traverse. Rotation from the engine is transmitted through a gearbox (which reduces engine speed and increases torque) to the drum axis. In all other respects, the design of the frame and tipping device is no different from models with a crown drive.

Some models of concrete mixers are sold disassembled. Detailed instructions for self-assembly included in delivery. If you have any questions, watch the video:

Some manufacturers offer ready-made concrete mixers car trailers. This greatly simplifies their transportation and subsequent operation.

Main technical characteristics

When choosing a concrete mixer, you must be guided by its technical characteristics, which include:

drum volume (the finished mixture will be from 40 to 60% of this value);
power, on which the time of continuous operation at maximum load depends;
weight that must be taken into account for transportation and movement around the construction site.

The drum volume of concrete mixers intended for individual use usually varies from 100 to 200 liters. Large volume models (250-300 liters) have significant dimensions and quite impressive weight (up to 150-200 kg), which significantly complicates their use. Typically, owners of their own country homes choose concrete mixers with a volume not exceeding 150 liters (the weight of such products is up to 70 kg). The electric motor power for such devices is 700-1000 W. Such a load is quite acceptable even for networks of holiday villages (for example, a regular electric iron consumes from 1000 to 1500 W).

Of course, to speed up the process of large-scale concrete work (for example, pouring the foundation of a future house), you can order a Kamaz (mixer), which will deliver a large amount of ready-made mortar. However, this requires access roads.

In custody

Having in your arsenal such a unit as a concrete mixer, you are completely independent of the capabilities of the organization that supplies the automobile concrete mixer. You can prepare a concrete solution at any time when the need arises. Moreover, a concrete mixer is a necessary thing in the household.

Any owner of a plot wants to arrange it as much as possible - erect the necessary buildings, create level areas and paths, etc. Often in such cases concrete is required, and its manual preparation takes a lot of time and effort. You can, of course, buy a ready-made unit for these purposes, but considerable funds will be required. DIY concrete mixer allows you to solve such problems(see others for private construction).

A concrete mixer is a machine designed for preparing by uniform mixing necessary components of the mixture and ensuring the desired consistency of the solution. In practice, four mixing principles are used:

Gravity method. It is based on the use of the weight of substances, i.e. gravitational forces. The problem is solved in a rotating container (drum). The components that are at the top fall down onto other substances, due to which they are mixed. The repetition of this procedure is ensured by many revolutions of the drum. The main difference between the gravity method is rotation of the entire container with the ingredients of the concrete mixture.
Mechanical method. This option is similar mixer. To mix the mixture you need rotating blades, which descend into it and perform the assigned task. Using mechanical method the working container remains stationary, and the blades rotate inside it.
Vibration method. It can be implemented by shaking the components at a certain frequency. Home craftsmen rarely use this technology due to the complexity of installation.
Combined method. It combines gravitational and mechanical approaches. It can be implemented in two ways - independent rotation of the container and the blades located inside it, or rotation of only the container, but with rigidly fixed blades placed in it.

Types of concrete mixers and materials used

Any concrete mixers consist of the following main parts:

working capacity;
mixing blades;
drive with transmission;
body (frame);
mechanism for unloading the solution.

According to the method of setting the torque, there are 2 types of installations - manual and mechanized.

In the first case, rotation is done manually, and the transmission increases the rotation speed of the working body. Mechanization is achieved using electric or gasoline engine.

By working tank design The following main varieties are distinguished.

Milk can (flask)

It is quite easy to make a manual concrete mixer from such a container. A pipe is passed through the center of gravity of the can, going out on both sides. The pipe must be securely fixed in the walls of the flask, for which it is used cold welding.

This design installed on bed posts. On one side, the pipe bends to form a handle, by which you can twist the container manually. The second pipe outlet is installed on the frame in a bearing. Suitable for such a simple installation standard flask with a volume of 40 l.

From a barrel

If you use metal barrel up to 100 l, That manual installation is manufactured similarly to the previous version. When to use a barrel with a volume 200 l, fits good electric drive.

This design requires a capacity seal tightly with a lid. A shaft is passed through the bottom and lid of the barrel. When assembled, the container is installed on the frame posts so that the axis of rotation is inclined.

A large gear for a chain drive or a belt drive pulley is attached to the shaft from the bottom of the barrel. Rotating torque is provided electric motor with a power of 1-1.2 kW. A window for ingredients is cut into the bottom closer to its edge. When loading, it is located at the top, and when unloading the solution, it is in the bottom position.

Washing machine option

This Appliances This suggests itself as the basis for a concrete mixer. Most suitable option– . It is better to replace the activator reservoir with a metal barrel.

A shaft of the same diameter is installed in place of the gearbox. The blades and brackets are attached to the threads of the machine, which must be well balanced. The drain hole is plugged. This homemade concrete mixer is quite suitable for preparing small quantities of concrete.

How to do it yourself?

When choosing the design of a homemade concrete mixer, you must proceed from availability of a home workshop and the necessary equipment. You should take care of the following tools in advance: welding machine, grinder, electric drill, vice, hacksaw, chisel, set of files, pliers, screwdriver, hammer, sledgehammer, set of wrenches, adjustable wrench, metal scissors, calipers, metal ruler.

Working capacity

Its volume is selected based on need. For example, when building a basement, small buildings, or arranging paths, it is enough to find sealed tank 40-60 l, and when building a house you will need a container with volume of at least 100-120 l.

Large containers should be made of metal, but for miniature installations, durable plastic can be used.

For homemade devices Of interest are any cylindrical, sufficiently strong containers of the required volume - metal or plastic barrels, a large saucepan, the tank of a washing machine or heating units (for example, Ariston), a milk can, etc.

The manufacturing process can be considered using the example of a barrel. The role of mixing elements can be performed by comb formed inside the container. The comb is made of a metal strip to which it is welded in a row nails 20 cm long in increments of 8-12 cm.

Two such details welded across the entire height of the barrel opposite each other. Then, in the center of the bottom and cover are attached on both sides flanges with bearing, after which a hole is drilled and the shaft is threaded through. To strengthen the shaft entry point, it is recommended to strengthen the bottom and cover by welding cross-shaped slats. The lid is hermetically welded to the barrel body. The loading opening can be made on the bottom or side.

Body and base

The concrete mixer body must withstand significant loads during operation caused by a rotating container with fully loaded solution. The base of the housing must ensure its stability during operation, despite vibrations and torque.

For this purpose, the width of the support is selected approximately twice as much diameter of the working container. The drum is installed on vertical racks, which are reinforced with oblique supports.

For the base it is recommended to use a corner measuring at least 10x10 cm. The tank is installed at a height of at least 110 cm. A lower location makes it difficult to unload the solution. It is better to provide all connections by welding, but in the absence of a welding machine it is possible to provide threaded connection using bolts with a diameter of at least 20 mm. For small concrete mixers, the body can be made of wood - timber and board.

Engine

IN homemade devices, most often, rotation is provided by an electric motor power 1-2 kW.

It attaches securely to the frame base and can be adjusted to ensure alignment.

The transmission of torque to the shaft of the working tank is carried out using chain or belt drive.

To do this, a gear or pulley of the appropriate diameter is pressed onto the working shaft. It is recommended to ensure the drum rotation speed within the limits 20-30 rpm. To do this, use the desired gearbox on the engine and select the diameter of the drive and driven gears (pulley).

Final assembly

Direct assembly of the concrete mixer is carried out in the following order:

Housing installation and strengthening the foundation. If necessary, it is weighted.
Installation and securing working capacity on vertical racks. Best option– the shaft is inclined.
Installation electric motor and its gearbox on the frame so that the output gear (pulley) coincides with the location of the gear (pulley) on the drum shaft.
Installation and adjustment transmission belt or chain.
Installation electrical network , starting and control devices.

Common mistakes when making a stirrer

The experience of home craftsmen using homemade concrete mixers indicates such typical mistakes allowed during manufacture:

Installation of old containers in which holes quickly form when exposed to the solution. For the working body, it is necessary to select a high-quality reservoir that is not subject to severe corrosion.
Manufacturing parts by eye. During installation, and even worse during operation, inconsistencies will definitely come to light. Everything must be done strictly according to the drawings with details.
The combination of cast iron and steel in the body does not produce a reliable weld. As a result, they are destroyed during vibration.
The container is selected taking into account that it can only be filled with solution to 2/3 of its volume. Exceeding the load leads to engine failure.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantage of a homemade concrete mixer is in saving money during numerous works using concrete pouring. It allows you to reduce the labor intensity of preparing the solution, speed up construction, and mechanize labor. Using such a device, you can carry out work without assistants. There is no need to think that concrete that is not used in a timely manner will harden and will have to be thrown away.

A homemade concrete mixer also has significant disadvantages. In him there is no way to regulate the mixing process, which is reflected in the quality of the concrete. When constructing a large facility, it will not be able to fully satisfy the need for mortar. The materials used and handicrafts can only ensure limited performance of the installation.

Useful videos

Look at a homemade concrete mixer in action:

Stirrer from a barrel with manual drive, look:

How to do it yourself - all the steps in detail:

For a detailed story about the independent production of a full-fledged concrete mixer from sheet metal and an engine from a washing machine, see:

People who are planning to build a house for themselves make a list necessary equipment. And it turns out that you can’t do without a concrete mixer. Purchasing such a device involves a lot of money, so craftsmen have developed instructions on how to assemble such a device yourself. An important factor is that this product is designed for long and repeated service.

You can be sure that if you follow the instructions carefully, assembling the concrete mixer will not take much time. Here's a list of the benefits you get:

the design involves the use of economical materials (i.e. you won’t have to spend a lot).
even a person without special skills can assemble this product.
the component parts are not particularly rare. They are not difficult to find, but be prepared that if you don’t have them in your possession, you will have to either ask friends or buy them.

A homemade concrete mixer includes the following parts: a handle for throwing concrete, a motor, a frame, and a container for concrete. If you intend to transport a concrete mixer from place to place, then you should also assemble a corresponding mobile structure based on a cart with wheels.

First, you need to think about the plan for the upcoming work, namely, draw a drawing of a concrete mixer, decide what components it will consist of.

There is no doubt that part of the concrete mixer will be a bucket. You will have to find a container or vessel of large volume.

— Perhaps it will be one of those barrels that often stand on personal plots (both metal and plastic will do).
— Sometimes there are very large, multi-liter pans that are also suitable for concrete.
— Round, capacious tanks, like the “titans” used for making tea on trains.

If you couldn’t find a similar container at home or with your friends, then you’ll have to work hard to make it yourself. At the same time, you will save a lot of money, because such products are not cheap in the store.

It is immediately worth noting that for comfortable work concrete mixers will require a capacity of 200 liters. and more. Then you don’t have to unload and unload it, but immediately prepare the required amount of the mixture.

In particularly unfavorable conditions, people manage to make concrete by persistently mixing the mixture with a shovel. But this is hard, exhausting work. After all, the mixture contains cement, sand and water - the substance turns out viscous, and the end result may be worse than if you use a concrete mixer. But some old container (for example, a 200-liter barrel) will become an essential part of the concrete mixer and will save you from suffering.

Let's consider two options for making such useful device. So, in the first case, you will rotate the concrete mixer with your own hands. Which, however, is much easier than doing it without this device at all, with a shovel. The second option is more “advanced”; it uses an engine (electric or gasoline), but, accordingly, more costs will have to be incurred.

If you decide to make a concrete mixer without additional traction, then you will need a shaft and a barrel. Handles are attached to both sides of the shaft. You rotate these knobs, and the shaft rotates along with the barrel of mixture mounted on it.

The assembly sequence is as follows:

Now consider the option if you decide to use an engine.

In this case, the engine torque will go through the belt to the pulley, and from the pulley, fixed instead of the handle, to the shaft. The rest of the details are the same as when using manual traction.

You might like it better vertical version this design. To do this you need to do the following:

Place the frame with the motor on the base. It will provide turns.
The rotation of the barrel occurs thanks to the shaft and special rollers on which it rests.
To avoid the difficulty of turning the device over, a handle is welded to the axis of the frame, and the frame itself is removed.

Typically, such an advanced model of concrete mixer is stored and used for its intended purpose in a special protected place. It could be a garage, a barn, a spacious utility room - the main thing is that there is electrical wiring there.

Not everyone has it welding equipment, and not everyone knows the skills of this craft. In this case, the frame is made of an iron angle, and the concrete mixer itself is bolted. If you have an old washing machine, then the motor from it will fit this device. Also, if you find an unnecessary drill with a 1.3 kW working motor, you can use it. A regular gasoline engine will also work.

Frame

The greatest loads of our structure will be borne by its frame. After all, when the tub rotates, a load is generated that significantly supplements the mass of concrete. At the base of the frame, a steel angle with parameters of about 110-130 mm is required.

If welding equipment is not available, you will have to make do with 27 mm bolts (or better yet, even larger ones). It is highly not recommended to use bolts of a smaller caliber, because... they may not be able to withstand the heavy loads ahead. But in any case, welding the frame remains a more reliable option.

Try to find a 1.3 kW motor. Some craftsmen who do not have such a device manage to connect two motors with identical speeds and torque. But a small failure of one of them can lead to a general breakdown.

Gearbox

Rapid mixing of concrete is unacceptable. It is recommended to do about 35 revolutions per minute. Most engines are designed for high speed. Slow engines are extremely rare in specialized stores. So it would be optimal to use a fast motor complemented by a gearbox.

Belting

This is the most economical and simplest way to manufacture a gearbox. You will need pulleys and belts.

If you need to reduce the speed from 1000 to 35 per minute, then you need to divide the actual number by the desired one. So, 1000/35 = 28. Therefore, the diameter of one pulley should be 28 times greater than the diameter of the second.

Suppose the diameter of a small pulley is 3 cm, then 3*28. It turns out 84 cm - this is what a large pulley should be.

Chain transmission

If you decide to use a chain drive, then the principle of its design is the same as with a belt drive. The only difference is that the calculations take into account not the diameter, but the number of teeth in the small gear.

Gear

If you have a ring gear from an engine old car, or better yet, a gearbox, then it can be used for a gear drive device.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

Turn the barrel over.
Place a hardened steel disk (crown) in the middle of the bottom
Mark the required places.
Set the crown aside and use a drill to make holes in the marked places.
Screw the crown as tightly as possible with bolts.

But if it is possible to weld the crown, this would be the best option.

If you have already installed the crown, then to install the gearbox you need to carry out the same steps. Those. you make marks, make holes as tightly as possible and secure with suitable bolts.

The next step: installation of the barrel, inside of which the blades are already welded or screwed. Metal corners or sheets are used for this.

For reliability, it is necessary to replace the last pulley or gear with a special gear located on the starter (Bendix) of the car. If you haven’t done this before and don’t want to make a mistake, dig into the documentation. It is this gear that is designed to take and withstand the greatest load when the bucket loaded with concrete rotates.

Steering wheel

If you are making a vertical concrete mixer, then to unload concrete from it you need to make a steering wheel
You have the following options to create it:

use a pulley or wheels (you can use old ones)
A piece of pipe with thick walls will do.

If you have selected a suitable pulley or wheel, then drill several holes around their circumference (your choice - 6 or 8). The minimum diameter is 6 mm, but it is better to do more. The holes are threaded. Even long bolts can act as handles (but in this case you need to cut off their heads and cut threads of more than 10 mm), but threaded rods or metal handles are better suited. They must be screwed into the holes on the wheel or pulley.

Making a steering wheel from a thick-walled pipe is almost the same as in the case of a pulley and wheel. Sometimes, if the pipe diameter is too small, some handles are installed offset.

If it is not possible to make a steering wheel at all, then the concrete is removed with a shovel. This is a more labor-intensive, but also effective method.

The most important part of the concrete mixer will be the tub. She needs some attention Special attention. It's good if you have a suitable container. And if not, you have to do it yourself. You will need a metal sheet 2 mm thick. On the back of this sheet a development of a large truncated cone is drawn, and on the back - a development of a small truncated cone. You also need to draw a circle for the bottom.

Then you need to cut out this development, bend it and connect all the components of the tub. Before final welding, it is necessary to study how accurately the parts fit together.

Unit frame

You need to determine: do you count on long term concrete mixer service or one season will be enough. In the first case, you can assemble a frame from wood, but for a durable structure it is necessary to make it from metal.

If you choose the option with wood, then prepare self-tapping screws - they will be needed during assembly. In addition, you need to find a beam (its parameters can be chosen from 10×10 or 15×15 cm). The connections are carefully glued at the joints.

A concrete mixer that will serve you for many years should have a metal frame. For production you will need a 45x45 mm corner or channel. As with other operations, welding the base will be a more reliable method of fastening, but in as a last resort Riveting or bolting is suitable.

Concrete mixer frame

Whatever type of construction you choose, you must drill holes in the frame of the concrete mixer for all devices that ensure operation.

Engine

As you know, Soviet washing machines, like refrigerators, despite their long operation, serve faithfully. Therefore, a motor removed from an old washing machine can serve as a motor for a homemade concrete mixer. To ensure an acceptable speed for the concrete mixer, a gearbox is used.

You can also connect a gasoline engine. This option is more mobile, because does not require electrical wiring. The engine can be taken from a moped. The transmission is carried out using a chain, which can also be taken from a moped or scooter.

Despite providing greater mobility, using a gasoline engine comes with risks. If there is a spark or other accidents, an explosion is possible. But also use electric motor poses a potential danger.

To protect yourself and others, remember the following rules:

because If you are going to work in a damp environment, you need to check the insulation of the cord.
on the contrary, you cannot check the solution when the tub is rotating.
because The concrete mixer will vibrate during operation; it is necessary to install a reliable support for the wheels (if we are talking about a mobile version). Otherwise, she may unexpectedly move away, causing injury to someone.
the same vibration weakens the tightening of the nuts. Therefore, check them regularly and tighten them if necessary.
Mittens would also come in handy. They will protect you from getting the solution and causing allergic irritations.
Do not leave a running concrete mixer unattended. It is unacceptable for children to approach her.

From all this it follows that even such a seemingly complicated unit as a concrete mixer can be made with your own hands. The main thing is to follow the instructions carefully and responsibly. And because Since no construction is complete without a concrete mixer, it can be rented out, which will not only recoup costs, but also make money.