Concrete mixing machine, or concrete mixer, or concrete mixer - construction device, intended for self-cooking high-quality building mixture. Such a machine can be stationary or mobile, differing in purpose and principle of operation. Today, a self-made concrete mixer is a good option for a practical and convenient unit. Its production will require minimal financial costs.
Types of concrete mixers and the principle of their operation
Concrete mixer is a technical device widely used in modern construction for the preparation of concrete or other cement-based mortar, and comes in very different types or shapes. Regardless of the standard characteristics and design features, the main function of a concrete mixing machine or mixer is to obtain maximum efficiency in the process of mixing all the ingredients.
Continuous concrete mixers
Concrete mixers continuous action have a forced process of mixing all components. From a design point of view, such units are the same, and the main differences are in the size, performance and shape of the mixing blades.
The operating principle of a continuous concrete mixer is the forced process of mixing the components of the solution
Continuous concrete mixing machines carry out a full range of all technological processes, represented by loading and mixing individual components, as well as unloading the finished mixture from the unit, which is ensured not only by production, but also by control equipment.
The diagram shows the structure of a continuous unit
- 8 - a continuous flow of mixture components is fed into the trough;
- 7 - blades mounted on shafts inside the trough at an angle of 40–45°;
- 6 - shafts inside the trough;
- 5 - unloading gate;
- 4 - gear pair;
- 3 - gearbox;
- 2 - belt drive.
The principle of operation of the mixer is based on loading a continuous flow of components by belt feeders or conveyors. The simultaneous supply of bulk components and water makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous and high-quality solution in the mixing tank, which is discharged through the unloading opening and can be loaded directly into a special vehicle.
The technical performance indicators of continuous mixers depend on the volume of solution that moves in a certain time in the direction of the axis, as well as on the size and angle of the blade part with the frequency of their rotation. The advantages of this version of a concrete mixer are represented by the ability to prepare mortars and rigid concrete in significant quantities, as well as the completely static body. The disadvantages include the need for a constant supply of components and the inability to obtain a small volume of solution.
Cyclic action
Cyclic installations are characterized by loading new components of the mixture only after complete unloading of the already prepared solution. This version of mixing equipment is more mobile, and the level of productivity is determined by the quality of the loaded components and the total volume of the mixing tank.
Cyclic concrete mixers are more mobile
The main function of the cyclic device is to produce high-quality concrete of the mobile, molding and rigid type with the presence of special additives. Units of this type may have a cylindrical or trough-shaped body with a vertical or horizontal shaft.
Mixing of the solution occurs using paddle shafts
- 1 - bearing;
- 2 - electric motor;
- 3 - frame structure;
- 4 - V-belt type transmission;
- 5 - gearbox;
- 6 - coupling;
- 7 - unit body;
- 8 - blade part;
- 9 - holder;
- 10 - opening for loading;
- 11 - shaft;
- 12 - pneumatic cylinder;
- 13 - shutter;
- 14 - discharge opening of the unit.
The operating principle is ensured by the rotation of the blades on the shafts in a mutual direction, which causes the electric motor and V-belt drive to turn on. Thanks to the extremely uniform arrangement of the blades on the shafts, such elements fit perfectly into the free spaces. The components to be mixed are delivered inside the operating mixer through a key-type opening, after which mixing occurs using paddle shafts and the finished mixture is discharged through a discharge opening controlled by a pneumatic cylinder.
The most benefits modern models consist in high quality mixing in a relatively short period of time and the possibility of using components with different densities, resulting in a high-quality finished composition. The main disadvantages of cyclic equipment are the high cost and technical complexity of the transmission, which requires ensuring regular and competent Maintenance unit.
Gravitational
Variant of construction machine, characterized by mixing concrete mixtures due to gravity. Gravity mixers are a drum that rotates around a horizontal or inclined axis. A prerequisite for operation is a strictly defined number of blade rotations, which prevents an excess of centrifugal force inside the drum.
The advantages of this type of concrete mixer are ease of installation and productivity
Gravity construction mixers, as a rule, are designed for preparing mixtures whose volume does not exceed one cubic meter. The modern mobile type installation is very easy to transport. The most popular and widespread gravity models are concrete mixing plants in the form of traditional concrete mixers.
The rotation speed of this type of concrete mixer is 20 rpm
- 1 - loading ladle;
- 2 - a pair of lifting drums;
- 3 - self-braking worm gearbox;
- 4 - flanged electric motor;
- 5 - mixing drum with blades;
- 6 - unit steering wheel;
- 7 - output shaft of a three-stage cylinder-bevel gearbox;
- 8 - ends of the rope that surround the bucket;
- 9 and 10 - limit switches to turn off the electric motor;
- 11 - traverse;
- 12 - flanged electric motor;
- 13 - single-stage gearbox;
- 14 - fixing device.
Operating principle: the blade elements inside the drum, in the process of their uniform rotation, pick up, lift and throw down the prepared solution. The standard rotation speed in gravity concrete mixing technology is limited to 20 revolutions per minute.
The undoubted advantages of any gravity mixer are represented by the optimal ratio of the weight of the installation and the total working volume of the container, the simplicity and reliability of the design, the possibility of using large aggregates, as well as the very low energy load of such equipment. Serious disadvantages of such models include low versatility and the risk of not obtaining homogeneous rigid mixtures.
Forced
Forced-action concrete mixing units are used in the production of not only moving, but also molding-type rigid concrete, and also make it possible to produce lightweight concrete with a significant amount of various additives. Forced mixers can be equipped with a horizontal or vertical shaft, which is placed in a trough-shaped or cylindrical housing.
In such a concrete mixer you can prepare solutions with different densities
Forced mixers ensure high-quality mixing of all components, and thanks to the versatility of the design, the production of concrete, as well as solutions with different densities and levels of mobility, is greatly facilitated.
All components are loaded into the concrete mixer drum, thanks to the blades they are mixed, and a high-quality solution is obtained
- 1 - mixer body;
- 2 - frame structure;
- 3 - electric motor;
- 4 - unit control panel;
- 5 - sector-type shutter;
- 6 - drive handle for opening the shutter;
- 7 - protective element;
- 8 - drive gearbox for shafts;
- 9 - belt drive protection;
- 10 - safety clutch;
- 11 - mixing shaft.
The principle of operation is based on loading all the components inside the drum and the ability of the blades to mix the components during rotation to obtain a homogeneous and high-quality mass of the finished solution.
The advantages of forced construction mixers are represented by high mixing quality, reliability of the equipment and its ability to function even in difficult conditions, as well as small dimensions and ease of transportation. The disadvantages include the lack of a maximum ratio of the weight of the equipment to the useful volume of the mixer, as well as the installed power of the electric drive being too high.
How to make a concrete mixer with your own hands
Of course, mixing can be done in a trough using an ordinary shovel, but this approach is very labor-intensive and does not allow obtaining a sufficient amount of a homogeneous and high-quality mixture, and the consumption of components in this case increases significantly.
Making your own concrete mixer is not difficult, even if you lack professional knowledge and special skills in this area. It is enough to familiarize yourself with the manufacturing diagram, prepare required material and a set of tools, and strictly adhere to step-by-step instructions.
From a barrel
The design has a unique trajectory of movement, in the form of an axis of rotation running strictly obliquely through the tank. Simple mortar mixers can function well with temperature conditions not lower than plus 2 o C, since the design does not provide heating of the prepared mixture.
The design of such a concrete mixer is quite simple.
- 1 - metal barrel;
- 2 - base made of metal corner;
- 3 - pipe shaft;
- 4 - bearing system;
- 5, 6 - handle and handle;
- 7 - hatch cover;
- 8 - lock connection;
- 9 - rubber seal;
- 10 - loop.
The prepared solution moves between two walls, which ensures simplicity and efficiency of regular use. A barrel mixer is capable of mixing about three buckets very well in twenty revolutions concrete mortar.
Materials and tools:
- metal barrel;
- a set of hardware, represented by bolts, nuts and washers;
- bearings;
- handle fittings;
- standard metal corner;
- welding machine;
- electric drill;
- “grinder” or hacksaw for working with metal;
- spanners;
- level, tape measure and marker.
- Drill holes at the ends of the barrel for installing the shaft.
- Install bearings under the rotary handle on the outer part of the covers.
- Cut a hole for easy removal of the finished solution.
- Seal the door with rubber.
- Secure the door with hinged hinges on the hinged latches.
- Weld the supporting frame structure from metal corners.
- Equip the shaft with blades made of steel sheet.
- Install the shaft and knobs.
- Place the barrel on a supporting metal structure.
If desired, the design can be supplemented with an electric motor, a gearbox to reduce torque, a V-belt and a moisture-proof switch, as well as a wiring system. In operation, this model of concrete mixer is less stable, and therefore requires mandatory provision of high-quality additional fixation.
From the washing machine
Construction mixer made on the basis washing machine, has quite high performance. In the process of drum rotation, stable stability is necessary, but the presence of a certain dissonance is explained by the components of the solution, constantly shifting the center of gravity. For this reason, it is necessary to resolve the issue of a reliable base or frame for installing a concrete mixer made using a washing machine.
The most stable geometric figure- a triangle that can withstand significant loads and maintains its position well. The advantages of a concrete mixer, independently assembled on the basis of a washing machine, are represented by individual selection of height, but the optimal option is a design with the lowest point of the container at the level of 50–80 cm. Volume of the finished product cement mortar directly depends on the size of the washing machine tank.
To ensure stability, you need to make a reliable base for the concrete mixer
Materials and tools:
- welding machine;
- electric drill;
- standard set of screwdrivers;
- hacksaw for working with metal;
- container from a washing machine;
- metal corners or pipe for making a frame frame;
- steel sheet for making blades.
If you want to make your own auger concrete mixer, you need to make a special shaft.
Step-by-step manufacturing process:
- Seal the drain hole in the working activator-type washing machine.
- Make swivel mechanism from metal corners or pipes.
- Place the washing machine on the tilting mechanism.
- Install the frame on “legs” half a meter high to ensure maximum stability of the structure.
It is important not to rigidly mount the tank around the perimeter of the frame, and installation on a canopy should allow it to be tipped over with emphasis on the frame base. This design is fixed on the basis of an activator-type washing machine with only four metal corners. The functionality of the finished construction mixer is ensured by connecting the unit to a 220 V network.
From a flask
Traditional milk or paint flasks can be an excellent base for making a compact concrete mixer. Technological capabilities make it possible to make a frame based on metal corners or pipes, as well as ordinary wooden blocks. As a rule, three buckets of concrete mortar can be produced simultaneously inside such a mixer.
Compact concrete mixer that allows you to prepare three buckets of solution in one go
The flask must be placed in an inclined position, using for this purpose four conventional rotating supports or a frame structure with an angle of 20–30° relative to the horizon. Thus, the device ensures rotation of the unit in accordance with the longitudinal axis.
Photo gallery: components of a homemade concrete mixer based on a flask
The flask makes a good mixing container. 
Engine elements 
Option with manual drive 
Operating principle of a concrete mixer 
Composite mechanism for a homemade concrete mixer
A homemade hand-held concrete mixer can be made within a couple of hours using a milk flask and almost any scrap metal.
Materials and tools:
- welding machine;
- electric drill;
- screwdrivers;
- hacksaw for working with metals;
- metal flask;
- metal corners for making a frame frame.
Step-by-step manufacturing process:
- Drill holes to install the handle.
- Pass the axle, equipped with a handle, through the holes drilled in the flask.
- Fabricate the supporting metal structure of the frame.
- Install the unit onto the frame.
Easy operation of the construction mixer is ensured by the mandatory balance of such a unit, so the axis is passed only through the center of gravity. The bushings for the axle can be ordinary plumbing couplings, and the stops are made by welding nuts lubricated with lithol or grease to the axial part. This option is very simple to work with, but a large amount of solution is not mixed well and quickly enough.
Options for concrete mixers for self-production (with drawings)
There are several easy-to-do-it-yourself options for construction mixers that have proven to be highly effective in preparing concrete solutions of various volumes.
Mechanical option
The main advantage is the fairly large volume, and both electric and manual drives can be used for equipment. Unloading of the finished composition is carried out by traditionally tilting the structure to one side.
The main disadvantage of such a cylindrical tub is the insufficient quality of mixing of the solution in the corner areas and the risk of splashing the mixture if the structure is turned too fast. The model is capable of mixing a simple mixture within five minutes, and mixing dry ingredients takes no more than ten minutes.
Combined horizontal version with combs
Electric or manual design Based on a cylindrical tank with high uniformity and excellent mixing speed. The device also has a high speed and quality solution manufacturing procedure. To mix one batch of solution, it is enough to perform only four turns of the handle.
Concrete mixers combined type have good mixing speed
The disadvantage is the structural complexity and large number components, and the installation of an unloading hatch with high-quality and very reliable seals, latches and hinges requires special attention.
Combs are made from ordinary metal corners
To make a comb, you should use metal corners that are securely fixed to the base.
For reliability and stability, it is recommended to make a base for the concrete mixer
To weld the side posts, struts, channels, cut into individual elements, as well as durable metal corners.
Electric option
The most common and popular construction mixer design, most often done with your own hands. Today, a huge number of variations of such a unit are known, which may have some differences in terms of design and technical characteristics.
Such construction mixer way to ensure a considerable yield of the finished solution
The best option It is generally accepted to use a cylindrical tank, in which the bottom and neck must be reinforced with cross-welded strips. Such a frame electric concrete mixing structure, securely welded on the axle, is characterized by high performance and sufficient yield of the finished solution.
Some difficulty may arise from assembling a container that rotates together with the axial element, due to the need to create a high-strength frame structure. Nevertheless, it is precisely thanks to this technical features, the electric concrete mixer can be used for the longest possible time.
Vibration option
If you have a hammer drill with a power rating of 1.0–1.3 kW and an impact force mechanism, it is quite possible to make a homemade vibrating concrete mixing machine.
In this design, it is necessary to take into account that the distance to the bottom must correspond to the radius of the unit
When making such a design, it must be remembered that the tank used must be round and high, not very wide, located on the axis. The standard distance to the bottom must correspond to the radius of the unit. It is strictly forbidden to use any flat containers made of sheet metal. In such a tank there is no wave excitation necessary for mixing the solution. The best option is to use a pair of metal plates stacked together, and the diameter of the vibrator should be a quarter of a meter for every 1.3 kW of power.
Modern cask version
An interesting design from the point of view of technical characteristics, which can easily be made in accordance with the step-by-step illustrations below. It is necessary to prepare a two-hundred-liter barrel, an electric motor of 250 W and 1430 rpm, as well as a wheel from a regular motorcycle, two belts and a couple of rings welded to each other. The pulley is securely welded to the bottom of the tank. The frame structure is made on the basis of a channel and a durable metal pipe.
Photo gallery: making a concrete mixer from an ordinary barrel
An ordinary barrel is suitable for making a concrete mixer. 
Drive mechanism part 
Fastening metal sheets to the frame 
Preparing the base for a concrete mixer 
Installing a concrete mixer on the base 
Concrete mixer is ready for work 
The construction unit can be equipped with an engine 
Engine drive belt 
Reservoir with blades for mixing solution components 
Concrete mixer at work
Video: homemade concrete mixer in action
Video: making a concrete mixing unit from a barrel
Thus, the standard ready-made design of a self-made construction mixer is represented by a stationary or mobile frame, kneading working elements, a tank for the direct mixing process and an unloading mechanism. Also important parts of the design include the transmission and gasoline or electric propulsion unit.
It’s not at all difficult to make an effective concrete mixing unit yourself, but it should be remembered that the distance from the gears to the pulleys should be as correctly adjusted as possible even before execution. installation work. The impossibility of connecting a grounding contract to a concrete mixer is mitigated by electrifying the device using a standard RCD, and all moving internal parts must be equipped with protective covers. The initial start-up of the concrete mixing machine is carried out in idle mode, but the preparation of the first concrete solution should not load the device to its full capacity.
An individual household in the private sector is always permanent - new tasks and problems constantly arise that require not only ingenuity, but also the use of mechanization means. Such means include a concrete mixer, which a prudent owner will try not to purchase, but to make on his own. Not all home craftsmen know how to make a concrete mixer with their own hands, and innovative solutions to this problem give rise to many original and unusual solutions. Most often, homemade concrete mixers use the principle of forced mechanical mixing. This means that the solution in the container is mixed both by gravity (by turning during rotation) and by blades fixed in the container.
All self-constructed concrete mixers can be classified and divided into mechanical, electrical and autonomous units. Structures are also divided according to the type of drive and the type of solution unloading. The simplest drawing of a concrete mixer includes a tank for the solution, a frame on which it is attached, and a mechanism for rotating the tank.
Any homemade concrete mixer with your own hands has a gearbox as part of its design. It can be implemented in any way - a belt drive, a gear or chain system, a transmission without belts (contact drive): the main condition for the gearbox is to ensure slow rotation of the reservoir, about 25-40 revolutions per minute. The drum of the device can be driven by hands, an electric motor or a gasoline (diesel) engine. Also, concrete mixers can have a stationary or mobile design - it depends on the imagination of the inventor and construction needs.
Unloading the solution is organized in different ways. This can be a tank without a lid with concrete being unloaded over the edge of the tub by simply tilting the concrete mixer, if the axis of rotation passes through vertical plane. Also, the container can be fixed horizontally, and then the concrete is unloaded through the cut off upper edge of the barrel (tub). To do this, the tub also just needs to be tilted, which is ensured by the design of the unit.
With a vertically located tank, there is no need for a hatch - the solution is unloaded by tipping into a substitute container. The advantage of the design without a hatch is that there is no need to seal the lid, which means there is no need to complicate the device. A vertical tank can be loaded 60-70%, while an inclined or horizontal tank can be loaded 30-50%, so that the liquid solution does not splash.
There is no point in making any homemade concrete mixer larger than 1 cubic meter - the weight of concrete with a solution volume of 1 m 3 will be about 1.6 tons, which will greatly complicate both mixing and unloading of the solution. The most common design is a concrete mixer made from a washing machine or from a metal 200- liter barrel for fuels and lubricants.
Next design feature concrete mixer made at home - design of the mixing unit. It can be different: the blades are welded to the bottom of the tank if the drum rotates vertically; the blades are attached to the walls of the rotating container, and the container can rotate in both vertical and horizontal planes; the blades rotate horizontally or vertically in a fixed tank. To choose a suitable design, you should carefully study the drawings of different concrete mixers, compare them with your capabilities and the availability of parts.
Manual concrete mixer
A mechanical manual drive for rotation of a concrete mixer, made from scrap parts and assemblies, is the simplest design solution, and it is based on the principle of a rotator - the tank rotates using a curved handle, as on any well. Such a homemade concrete mixer requires significant effort, so the container is made of small volume, which reduces the productivity of the unit. The advantage of the design is simplicity and cost-effectiveness of manufacturing, autonomy and possible mobility. Disadvantages - small tank volume and manual labor.
Electric concrete mixer
A concrete mixer with an electric drive is more widespread among home craftsmen, as it greatly facilitates manual labor - it is enough to load the components of the solution into the container in the correct proportion, and the electric drive will mix the mixture in a matter of minutes. Unloading concrete in a concrete mixer in any structure usually occurs by dumping the mixture into a trough, and the residue is cleaned out with a shovel. Unloading is not automated due to the small volume of concrete solution being prepared.
To improve a site, either mortar or concrete is often needed. Kneading it by hand is difficult and time-consuming, and the quality of the solution is far from the best: it is difficult to achieve uniformity. Not everyone wants to buy a concrete mixer for periodic use. A good solution is a DIY concrete mixer. You don’t need much money; in terms of performance, homemade units are no worse than Chinese ones, and sometimes even better.
Manual concrete mixer
At a construction site there is not always electricity, and large volumes of mortar and concrete are not always required either. The solution is to make a small-volume concrete mixer that will rotate manually (with a manual drive). The designs of these models are simple and straightforward.
From a milk flask
The simplest manual concrete mixer can be made using an ordinary metal flask (milk used to be sold in these). You will also need pipe cuttings or other scrap metal. The design is simple, such a concrete mixer can be built with your own hands in a couple of hours. The main thing is to weld the frame. Assembling the concrete mixer itself will take a couple of tens of minutes.
Make a frame from round pipe bend the handle. In the upper part of the frame, weld two water couplings (for example). Their inner diameter is slightly larger diameter pipe used for the handle. The pipe is passed through the flask and welded to the body.
In order for the barrel to spin easily, you need to find the center of gravity. To do this, you can put it on some thin object, and move it forward/backward to find this very center. This is where you will need to pass the handle. Having passed the handle, it is attached to the walls of the case. This is where difficulties can arise: flasks are usually made from aluminum alloy, and the handle can be made of steel. It will not be possible to connect them by welding. The only available way out is cold welding. He is quite real. The remaining modes - with bimetallic gaskets or argon-arc welding at home - are not implemented. Another way out is to weld plates onto the handle, which are riveted to the sides of the flask.
To prevent the handle from playing too much and falling out during operation, nuts are welded to it on both sides of the coupling.
In general, this is all manufacturing manual concrete mixer with your own hands. For one batch in a 40 liter can you can get 2.5-3 buckets of solution. For use in a country house or on a plot near a house (without construction) it is more than enough.
If there is no can, you can adapt a barrel (thick-walled). Then the problem with welding the handle disappears, but you will have to come up with a system for fixing the lid. You can make something similar to the one that the can has.
The video shows an example of a handmade homemade concrete mixer made from a milk flask. The design is a little different, but not too different. Eat interesting idea— inside the container, dividers are welded to the pipe, which speed up mixing.
From a barrel (manual and electric)
The author called this design a “drunk barrel” because of its unique trajectory. The whole point is that the axis of rotation goes obliquely through the container. Because of this, the solution rolls over from one wall to another. The design is also simple and effective. What is important is that there are no problems with welding dissimilar metals. A drawing of a manual concrete mixer from a barrel is shown below.
In the upper part of the frame, bearings are installed in the center, into which the handle is threaded. Thanks to them, a 200 liter barrel rotates easily. Just choose a container with thick walls - it will last longer. No additional blades are welded inside: they only retain the components, interfering with mixing and complicating unloading.
IN original design The loading/unloading hatch is located in the bottom. This is a cut-off part (about 1/3), attached with hinges to the bottom, equipped with rubber sealing around the perimeter and closed with two locks. When loading the barrel, turn it so that the hatch is at the top. When unloading, turn down. The solution moves by gravity into the substituted container, and the stuck one can be removed by knocking on the body with a hammer or sledgehammer.
This design served the author for 10 years, although it was made for a one-time job, but it turned out to be very successful: 2.5 buckets of solution are mixed well in 20-30 revolutions. During this time, it was repeated and improved by neighbors and acquaintances. Most of the modifications concerned the hatch. Experimentally, its most successful design was identified - similar to the one used in a milk flask. This “neck” is welded to the body of the barrel on one side (look at the photo above). They also make handles on both sides so that two people can work.
This design can easily be converted into an electric homemade concrete mixer. Not very well placed powerful engine— 1 kW for a 200-liter barrel is enough, a small sprocket is attached to the axis of which, a larger sprocket is welded to the axis-pipe (to reduce the number of revolutions), they are connected using a chain (from a scooter, for example).
DIY electric concrete mixer from a barrel and a washing machine engine
This concrete mixer is gear type. To make this model you needed:
- galvanized steel barrel 180 liters (diameter 560 mm, height 720 mm);
- washing machine motor - 180 W, 1450 rpm;
- flywheel and starter gear from Moskvich 412;
- two pulleys from a washing machine with a diameter of 300 mm and 60 mm;
- wheels from a garden cart;
- scrap metal for the frame.
Gears, wheels - everything is old, everything was in the garage
First of all, we clean everything from rust, treat it with a rust converter and cover it with primer.
We make a frame from pipes and channels. We strengthen the corners of the frame by welding metal plates. Everything must be tough and reliable. We are making a serious crossbar: a barrel of solution will “hang” on it, and everything will vibrate and spin.
The frame is the basis of the structure. The pipes are almost new))
We weld the pins, seat under the transmission gears. We remove rust, treat it with a rust converter, and prime it.
We fasten the wheels from the cart. They have wide treads and they have justified themselves: it is not difficult to drag a concrete mixer even just across the site.
We also make structures from pipes for support and installation of all the “filling”.
The second is for greater stability
We begin to assemble the drive. First we place the large gear on the previously welded pin.
We install an assembly in the seat - a small gear connected to a wheel for a belt drive.
We attach the engine to the plate welded in advance.
We hang it so that the two wheels of the belt drive are at the same level. It is also necessary to ensure normal belt tension.
All that remains is to attach the barrel. We make a hole in the center for a large pulley and drill a hole for fasteners. Let's put it in place.
Only the electrical part remains. We connect the cable via
Several photos of the main components. Maybe someone needs to take a closer look.
The second transfer option is from a car disk
The barrel is 200 liters, its edges were cut, bent and welded, forming the usual “pear”.
They made a “pear” from a barrel
The car disk was bolted to the bottom (with rubber gaskets). It was selected so that a recess was formed for the belt drive. A hub was pre-attached to the disk.
Blades were welded inside the barrel to mix the solution more efficiently.
All this equipment was attached to the frame.
Where the plate is welded is the place for the engine. We set it so that the belt runs smoothly. Power was supplied through a toggle switch, and a timer from the washing machine from which the motor was removed was turned on in series.
In general, the rotation speed turned out to be 35-40 rpm. Should be enough.
Homemade mixers in video version
If you understand the general principle of how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands, you can modernize and remake it, adjusting it to the existing parts. The videos collected in this section will help.
Crown type
Another option, but not a gear type, but a crown type. By the way, you can buy a crown (cast iron or plastic) and install it on the barrel.
With rollers as support
When large-scale construction work is planned, not the last question that needs to be resolved is where to get a mortar mixer - if you mix the mortar manually, then the lost time in no way compensates for the savings from refusing to buy a concrete mixer. Some skills in welding and plumbing and instructions on how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands will help reduce costs.
Basic principles of operation of mortar mixers
According to the principle of operation, a self-made concrete mixer is no different from industrial analogues - the differences will only be in the materials used and sizes. In addition, repairing a concrete mixer with your own hands will be easier, since you know the self-made mechanism inside and out.
Based on the volume of planned work and available components, finished device can mix concrete in a concrete mixer in a forced way, gravity or combined. The latter is used most often due to the ease of manufacture of the device and the high quality of its work.
Forced mixing of the solution
A construction mixer or drill with a special attachment works on this principle: a whisk is lowered into the solution and rotates to mix its components. But such tools are more suitable for gypsum plasters– sand and cement, especially with the addition of crushed stone, have much more weight, so in the best case, you simply won’t get a high-quality mixture, and in the worst case, when making the solution you can burn out the drill motor or its gearbox.
To prepare concrete, a slightly modified design is used - a shaft passes through the center of the container, on which blades are mounted, mixing the components of the mixture. Also good results show frame mixers that break up lumps of mortar, turning it into a homogeneous mixture. Some builders are convinced that only such an arbolite mixer can prepare an arbolite mortar with high quality.
Advantages and disadvantages
This method shows excellent results in production, but before using it at home, you should weigh the pros and cons of the design.
There is only one advantage - such a concrete mixer will produce the most homogeneous solution in the shortest time.
This device has many more disadvantages:
- Complexity of design. It is necessary to ensure the tightness of the place where the shaft passes through the mixing container. This determines how often the bearing, which is usually installed in this location, will need to be replaced. It is also necessary to reduce the “dead zones” that are located near the walls of the container - the blades or frame should rotate freely, but at the same time pass close enough to the surface so as not to leave unmixed parts of the solution there.
- Need quality parts. The concrete solution is quite heavy in itself, and adding crushed stone or other inclusions to it requires additional capacity from the concrete mixer. As a result, in order to get a good concrete mixer, you need to remember or master the basics of strength materials.
- The design is not designed for preparing a solution containing medium and large fractions of crushed stone or expanded clay - they will simply get stuck between the blades and walls.
- High energy consumption. Again, everything depends on the density and weight of the concrete in which the blades will rotate. For the same reason, a homemade forced-action concrete mixer must have a motor - if you try to rotate the shaft manually, you can just as well use shovels.
If the quality of the solution and the speed of its mixing are more important, then a forced concrete mixer with your own hands can be made according to the following schemes.
Parts and device
The design consists of the following components:
- Bearing frame. Its implementation is individual in each case.
- Kneading drum with smooth inner walls.
- Working shaft. Frames or blades are attached to it to mix the solution.
- Electric motor.
- Reduction gear.
- Clutch. Transmits force from the gearbox to the shaft. Can act as a fuse when jammed.
- Hatch for pouring out the prepared solution.
- Lever for opening the hatch (or turning the drum).
Self-assembled forced-action concrete mixers require special attention to the method by which the prepared solution will be unloaded. This is a hatch in the bottom of the mixing container or a device for completely turning it over so that the finished mixture pours out through the loading compartment. It is advisable to decide in advance which method is more suitable.
Visually a forced concrete mixer in the video:
Gravity mixing
When using this method, the container itself rotates, into which the components of the solution are poured. Mixing occurs due to the constant pouring of sand and cement from top to bottom. The most difficult thing in this design is to ensure that the lid is tightly closed so that water does not leak through it.
The most important advantage of the design is its simplicity. Such a do-it-yourself mortar mixer can be made from an ordinary can; even an unnecessary and leaky one will do. You cannot drink water from it, so the hole can be sealed by any means, and the neck rarely deteriorates and still provides the necessary tightness.
Such devices can also be used during construction in places where there is no electricity - such a homemade concrete mixer, made with your own hands, does not necessarily have to be equipped with an electric drive, although its presence will greatly simplify the work.
Working on the same principle, but more common, is a homemade concrete mixer made from a barrel. It’s easier to find a container for it, it’s more spacious and allows you to mix the solution more thoroughly. As practice has shown, the solution is better mixed in a barrel secured in opposite corners.
Parts and device
The following components are used:
- Iron barrel of suitable size. Some craftsmen also use plastic containers for these purposes.
- Frame. There are no restrictions here - there is complete scope for imagination. The main thing is that it is convenient to pour out your prepared solution.
- A shaft on which the container is supported, capable of supporting the weight of a barrel of cement.
- Bearings.
- Pen. The longer it is, the easier it is to rotate the shaft.
- Handle.
- Cover for draining the finished solution.
- Clamps that hold the lid to the neck.
- Seals.
- Hinges for opening the lid.
How a self-made concrete mixer from a barrel works is clearly shown in the following video:
Combined concrete mixers
The most common devices - the solution is mixed due to gravitational influence, plus the breaking of lumps with blades or pins welded to the barrel body. Suitable for making wood concrete with your own hands. They require more time to prepare the solution than forced mixers, but have an extensive list of advantages:
- The design is as simple as possible, reliable and unpretentious in operation.
- Less force is created on the shaft rotating the barrel, which allows the use of less powerful electric motors than for forced mixing. The result is significantly less wear and tear on components.
- There is no need to seal any joints - the solution is mixed inside the barrel, and all the components of the mechanism are outside.
- It is possible to mix solutions with any size fractions of crushed stone, expanded clay and other fillers.
The simplest combined manual concrete mixer made with your own hands from iron barrel- this is the same manual concrete mixer, but with blades or combs welded on the inside. If necessary, an electric motor can be connected to it.
Self-production
A factory-made or home-made concrete mixer consists of three main components: a tub in which the solution is mixed, a frame for attaching the components, and a drive - manual or electric (in some cases, motors from a moped or scooter are used).
In the video, a homemade tub for combined mixing of the solution is installed on a T-16 tractor:
Tub for solution
Firstly, you need to think about its size, given that it will be loaded at 30-40%. This is no longer possible, as the solution will splash out and mix poorly.
Secondly, attention should be paid to the shape - it should be pear-shaped. From above, so that water and solution do not splash out, from below, so that concrete particles do not get clogged in the corners between the wall and the bottom.
This is an almost finished tub plastic barrel required sizes- besides the fact that it fits the shape, additional advantage will be her weight.
Alternatively, a concrete mixer can be made from a washing machine - if you have an old Soviet round “washing machine” lying around in the attic, then remove the laundry tank, which is specially designed to allow liquid to spin inside it. The bottom is strengthened, the top is narrowed and the tank is ready.
If there is nothing suitable, then a pear for a concrete mixer can be made from a steel sheet with a cross-section of 2-3 mm. For the bottom, you should take thicker metal - about 5 mm - it will bear the main load from the drive.
With a diameter of 500 mm and a height of 400, a compact tub is obtained, in which, however, 30 liters of solution can be prepared at a time.
The following drawings will tell you more about the design:
You can make a high-quality pear for a concrete mixer without using blades. In the diagram shown, instead of them, mortar dividers made of 16 mm reinforcing rod are welded inside the container, which further strengthen the structure. This design is an excellent mixer for wood concrete.
Attachment to the shaft occurs through the hub from car wheel, which is welded or screwed to the bottom. If there are no car parts lying around in the garage, then the fasteners will have to be made manually according to the drawing.
Support frame
There can be a variety of variations in its design - there is complete freedom of action, the main rule of its manufacture is that it securely holds all components and provides free access for loading and unloading concrete.
The main differences in engineering lie in the method of pouring the finished solution, for which the tub itself is made movable, or the entire frame is designed in a certain way.
For a tub made of steel sheet, the optimal frame is one that allows it to tilt. The container itself is connected to the gearbox drive (15), to which the force comes from the engine (17) through the coupling (16).
All this is mounted on a subframe (18) and rotated on a hinge (14). For different types solutions, the working slope of the tub can be adjusted, for which an eye (22) is welded to the subframe, through which a sector (10) passes, held in the desired position by a pin (23).
The sector needs at least three basic provisions:
50% slope – for heavy solutions.
A slope of 30% is for light mixtures (for example, plaster).
Horizontal position to rinse the container.
Electric motor and gearbox
These parts are rarely purchased separately - it’s easiest to use what you have on hand. The electric motor will fit from a washing machine, electrical diagram from there, and gearboxes are assembled from bicycle wheels, belts or chain drives. The closest thing to the factory design is a flywheel welded to the bottom, which spins from the “native” Benedix car starter mounted on the shaft.
All calculations are made based on the following considerations:
- The engine power is selected according to the ratio of 20 watts per liter of solution.
- The number of revolutions produced by the gearbox for the tub should be in the range of 30-50 per minute. A smaller amount will increase the mixing time, and a larger amount will splash the solution or generally cause centrifugal forces, due to which mixing will not occur.
Briefly about the main thing
A manual concrete mixer assembled with your own hands is a completely solvable task for a person who knows how to properly work with a welding machine and has plumbing skills.
If you are making a mixer with your own hands from a barrel, then you can choose a plastic container that is completely ready for installation.
When assembling, you need to remember about engine power, the optimal number of revolutions and careful alignment of the mechanism.
This article is suitable for any amateur builder who, in his free time from his main job, is trying to arrange a home for himself. summer cottage. In construction you cannot do without concrete. Even if you make a house out of wooden beams, you will definitely need a reinforced concrete foundation or piles. And after kneading the concrete solution in a bucket or trough with your hands a couple of times using a drill or shovel, an inquisitive mind begins to look for less labor-intensive methods.
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There are several options. You can order home delivery and the concrete mixer truck will deliver it the next day required amount cubic meters Perhaps this option is not entirely economical. More industrious owners can buy a concrete mixer; it is compact and equipped with an electric motor for mixing the solution. Throw cement, sand, water and crushed stone into it in the required proportions, and only have time to empty the concrete mixer by pouring the solution out of it. It's cheaper, but you still have to buy such a concrete mixer.
But there is another option: make a concrete mixer with your own hands. Yes, this is possible if there are drawings. You will spend time on this, but it will more than pay off for you. Moreover, the device is not as complicated as it seems at first glance. The concrete mixer has a simple principle:
- there is a tub or something like a flask in which the solution is mixed;
- drive, that is, the mechanism due to which the tub rotates and mixing occurs;
- the frame that holds it all together.
The concrete mixer has additional small parts, which will be discussed below, but these three are the main ones. Now let's delve into the nuances of making a homemade concrete mixer.
What types of concrete mixer are there?
Based on the mixing method, concrete mixers are mainly divided into four types: gravity, mechanical, vibration and combined. Let's tell you a little about each one so that you have a little idea about it and so that you can choose the one that suits you. After all, it can be used for absolutely different needs: basically this is the foundation (of a house, a fence and much more), but various building materials can be cast from it into shape. Blocks made of cement, wood concrete and other things.
Gravitational
A unit of this type is the simplest option both to manufacture and to use. Do-it-yourself manual concrete mixer, the tub of which simply rotates along an axis, and the components of the solution are mixed under the influence of gravity. This option is not suitable for large volumes because it does not provide good mixing. But if you have always mixed the solution in small quantities and did not need more, then this option may well be suitable.
Mechanical
Such a homemade forced-action concrete mixer in its pure form is rarely used because it has a number of disadvantages. It looks like this: a barrel in a horizontal position with a hole at the top along its entire length. The axis runs through the center of the barrel, and metal parts are welded to it, which mix the solution. The hole does not allow the barrel to be rotated in only one direction and you have to swing it from side to side. Compared to gravity, it has a larger volume, which is a plus. The disadvantages are: poor mixing in the corners and splashing of the solution with high vibrations.
Sometimes mechanical concrete mixers are made absolutely motionless; only the axis inside it moves, to which metal dividers are welded. This design is well suited for the manufacture of wood concrete blocks. We'll talk about this below.
Vibrating
Making this type of manual concrete mixer with your own hands is not such a simple matter. The basic principle is that the solution remains stationary and all the work of mixing is assigned to the vibrator. There are many nuances here, which, if not taken into account, will only lead to wasted time.
The tub must be round, not wide, but high, similar to the shape of a Soviet washing machine. The vibrator must be of a strictly defined shape, similar to two low plates placed together. Actually, at home, two metal plates are the best option. The vibrator should not be too large; its size depends on the volume of the mixing vessel. If you overdo it in choosing the size, then even with visible work it will still not mix. And the last thing: the location of the vibrator inside the vessel is strictly along the axis, the distance to the bottom of the barrel is equal to the diameter of the vibrator.
If all these conditions are met, the ideal solution from your barrel is guaranteed. But if the quality of sand or cement is poor, you will have to mix it a little longer. One drawback: high power consumption. And under no circumstances try to use a hammer drill as a drum vibrator. Many craftsmen have tried to make a concrete mixer, but most often they fail.
Combined concrete mixer
This type of concrete mixer is a combination of gravity and mechanical installation. The solution rotates in a horizontal or inclined plane, and protrusions are made inside the vessel itself, which further help to mix the components. They are usually made from metal plates of various shapes, which are welded to inside flasks. This type of concrete mixer allows you to mix a large volume of solution, and the mixing quality is also good. It will not be possible to weld the plates into a concrete mixer a lot of work, therefore this type is the most widely used. In the future, we will talk specifically about this type of concrete mixers.
We make a concrete mixer
The theory is over. Let's start practicing. Now we’ll take a closer look at how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands. This process must be divided into several stages. We know that a concrete mixer consists of three main components: the mixer bucket, the drive and the frame. If everything is clear with the drive, it can be either manual or mechanical, when a concrete mixer uses a gearbox and an electric motor, then we will dwell on the manufacture of the bucket and frame in more detail. If you have drawings at hand when working, that will be great.
Making a tub
The most popular item used as a mixing vessel is standard 200 liter barrels. With some reservations, it is suitable for any type of homemade concrete mixer. You can use the washing machine body if it is strong enough. But that would be too simple; our goal is to make the tub ourselves.
Firstly, the material. For walls we take metal with a thickness of at least 2 mm, for the bottom - at least 5 mm. Secondly, the form. It is cylindrical, but at the top in the neck area it should taper into a cone.
Let us describe the sequence of actions point by point:
- We make a hub flange. You can find its drawings and make it yourself, but it is better to buy a ready-made one. The part is important, but not easy to manufacture.
- We make the bottom from sheet steel with a thickness of at least 5 mm. We drill holes in the very center and attach the hub flange.
- We cut out five main parts of the body from metal 2 mm thick - the shell (it is rolled up to form a cylinder) and four petals, which are then fastened together to form a cone.
- We connect the bottom, shell and cone using welding machine and get the base of the barrel for mixing.
- We strengthen the neck so that it does not become deformed later. To do this, we weld a 10 mm reinforcing rod to its circumference.
- We weld cutters crosswise inside the barrel. Usually two or three are enough. They are also made from reinforcement, but more durable, or from metal plates. The main thing is to bend them at a right angle. They will mix the solution. In addition, due to them, a homemade concrete mixer will be stronger.
When the mixer tub is ready, you can begin making the frame.
Frame making
The frame is the support of the entire structure. The tub, drive and gearbox are attached to it. For good stability, the support legs are welded, and to make it easy to move the concrete mixer, even when filled with mortar, wheels are installed. The design of the frame itself can be different, the main thing is that stability is maintained during operation of the entire device. For this purpose, many craftsmen adapt various unnecessary metal parts collected from the corners of their summer cottage.
- The concrete mixer is based on a T-shaped structure, due to which the homemade concrete mixer will stand stably on the surface. The first post is welded vertically to it.
- Welded to the second rack cross beam, along the edges of which wheels are attached.
- Both racks are fastened together at the bottom with a beam (this makes the structure more stable) and at the top with a subframe, which will subsequently serve as the basis for attaching the tub.
- The frame is reinforced with an inclined stand, to which the capacitor box and starter are attached. These two devices are used to turn on the rotation mechanism.
- The subframe is made of two pipes and a corner. It looks like a double frame held together by lintels.
- The electric motor and gearbox are installed on the subframe.
- The hub flange, which is already attached to the tub, is placed on the gearbox. To fix the mixer, a key is used and it is finally secured with a bolt through the hole on the shaft.
- A handle is attached to the stretcher, which allows you to tilt the mixer tub at different angles.
- Finally, the frame is protected from scale and coated with metal paint. The tub can also be painted, but only on the outside, there is no need to paint the inside of the barrel.
Now your DIY concrete mixer is ready to use! You can pour a foundation, install pillars, fill molds for wood concrete building blocks, and much more.
Drive for a homemade concrete mixer
In practice, it often happens that the master already has an electric drive and gearbox of a certain power, and the concrete mixer and its parameters are selected based on this. The ratio of the volume of mixed components and the power of the electric motor should be approximately: 20 W per 1 liter of solution.
That is, if you have a 1 kW engine at your disposal, then the maximum volume of the mixture should be 50 liters. Considering that the tub needs to be loaded at 30-40%, its approximate volume can be from 125 to 160 liters. For a standard 200 liter barrel, a gearbox with a 1.2 kW electric motor is suitable; the load will be equal to 60 liters of solution.
The number of revolutions is also important. Optimal value: from 30 to 50 rpm. If you do more, the solution may splash. You can do less, of course, but then the mixing process will be long and excess electricity will be consumed.
If there is no electricity
There are times when you need to start construction on a site where electricity has not yet been installed. Then we don’t need the engine, but we will use manual force. The sequence of actions during manufacturing remains absolutely the same, only the drive is replaced by two handles - on one side and the other. The disadvantage is that you have to put more effort into mixing and it will take longer. But for short and small jobs this option can be considered quite acceptable.
Washing machine tub
You can make a tub from a washing machine if you have one lying around from Soviet times. Moreover, the body of almost any washing machine is suitable for this. You just need to solder all the holes in the drum of the old washing machine. A machine with both horizontal and vertical loading is suitable for this. There is one more feature of this option. If the amount of mortar that you are going to mix in the future concrete mixer is not too large, then the washing machine engine will be quite suitable as a drive.
Using a concrete mixer
The concrete mixer is rarely used in one place. Often you have to carry it or roll it around the entire area, so prepare an extension cord of sufficient length in advance. The components are loaded into a tub with an inclination of 20-40 degrees in the following order: water, cement, sand, and lastly crushed stone, gravel, and expanded clay are poured.
To completely mix the concrete solution or wood concrete mixture, 3 to 5 minutes are enough, then the tub is tilted using the handle and the solution is poured into the place prepared for this. You can immediately add a new portion of components and continue working.
After a day of work, the device, all its connections and seams must be thoroughly washed. Usually this happens in the evening, when there is not much strength left and you want to leave everything, because the next day you will have to get it dirty again. Don't be lazy. Even in such a situation, it is better to wash the concrete mixer, this will increase its service life.
Wood concrete blocks consist mainly of two components. In addition to various chemical additives, this sawdust and wood chips, as well as the hydraulic binder Portland cement. Such blocks are valuable because houses made from them retain heat well. Therefore, wood concrete blocks - perfect solution for the construction of walls of a warm house. As for the properties of wood concrete, it is low thermal conductivity, increased bending strength, does not support combustion, and is easy to process.
Imagine that everything worked out for you and now you are the owner of a very useful thing in construction - a concrete mixer. But so that its service life does not end with just a foundation or a fence, and the thing serves you for a long, long time, you will have to follow safety rules and take care of it:
- Pay close attention to cables and contact connections. They must be securely insulated. The work takes place in conditions of high humidity and splashing water, so the requirements of electrical safety rules come first;
- The vibration that accompanies the work of a concrete mixer relaxes threaded connections your makeshift tub. Therefore, periodically check them and tighten them. And don’t forget about welds, they can also break;
- Before turning on the device, make sure it is stable. All standard stands should rest firmly on the ground, and it is advisable to install wheel chocks under the wheels;
- It is impossible to check the quality of the solution while the concrete mixer is operating; cases of serious industrial injuries are not uncommon;
- Use skin and eye protection;
- Never leave a running concrete mixer unattended.
Conclusion
In conditions of total economy, when the budget for construction work is limited, and this is no wonder these days, many save on quality building materials or using the services of third-party masters. But there are craftsmen who also save on construction equipment. Of course, do a drill or electric plane- a dubious occupation. But the concrete mixer, despite its apparent complexity and bulkiness, is ideal for this, even for home production wood concrete blocks. You could see this in our article.
Let's summarize. A small number of parts, some of which can be found right on your site. Homemade concrete mixer has a simple diagram, drawings and manufacturing sequence. You also need a few tools: a grinder, welding, work with a drill, and possibly a soldering iron. From Supplies: bolts, nuts, washers, metal sheet and angle. The main thing is to clearly define in advance why you need it and what you want to see as a result of your work. Then your concrete mixer will not be inferior to any industrial production, even if it is made from the body of a washing machine.
