During overhaul Apartment, we are faced with the need to replace the old toilet with a new one. A professional plumber is often called in to carry out this work. However, installing a toilet bowl with your own hands is not such a difficult task as it might seem at first. If you are on a budget or want to save money on workers' services, then this article is for you. Below we will tell you how to choose the right toilet, prepare the room, assemble and install a new plumbing fixture.
Choosing a toilet
When choosing new plumbing fixtures, you should consider some features of the toilet and bathroom. Namely:
- Room area;
- Presence or absence outer pipe water supply, its diameter and distance from the proposed tank;
- Location of the sewer pipe;
- Release angle. The best option is to install a toilet with an oblique outlet. You can measure the outlet height from the floor with your own hands, and with a slight mismatch, install an adapter - a drain corrugation.
All toilets have their own design and mounting features. First of all, you need to divide them into hanging And floor. Installation wall hung toilet has aesthetic advantages, in addition, it takes much less space. Whereas a floor-standing toilet is more practical, convenient and reliable.
Classification by flushing method
There are two main types of flushing - direct and circular.
- Direct (or horizontal) is more common in simple budget models of plumbing equipment. Water from the tank flows down back wall toilet bowl, which does not allow you to remove dirt under the rim. When water fills and drains, this toilet creates a lot of noise.
- Circular flush effectively cleans the entire surface of the bowl due to the ring device. However, toilets with this type of flush are significantly more expensive.
Removing an old toilet
Dismantling and installation of the toilet follow each other in the event that you need to replace the old plumbing with a new one. This happens during a major renovation of an apartment or bathroom.
All actions must be carried out in a strictly defined order:
- Wear safety glasses and work clothes;
- Shut down cold water, and then drain the water from the tank;
- Disconnect the water pipe and remove the tank;
- Unscrew the floor-standing toilet from the floor;
- To detach the toilet bowl from the sewer pipe, use a sledgehammer or hammer. Gently tap the cement or adhesive covering the joint. Make sure that the fragments do not fall into the pipe and clog the drain;
- While shaking the toilet, remove any remaining sealant and remove it from its place;
- Now you can clean the bathroom, clearing the place for a new plumbing fixture. Clean the sewer and water pipes from rust and plaque, and then treat them with a lubricant that prevents metal corrosion.
Building a new toilet
Installing a bidet and toilet is not an easy task, but it can be done. Any floor-standing toilet consists of two main parts - a bowl and a cistern. Our primary task is to connect these two parts into a complete plumbing fixture using screws, nuts and various gaskets.
Assembling the toilet begins with the flush cistern. First you need to install the drain mechanism, and then the float. The drain mechanism, which is usually attached assembled, is not difficult to install. Insert it into the special hole at the bottom and secure it with a plastic nut, onto which you then put a rubber seal.
Important: Don't forget the rubber gaskets! All toilet connections are made using them.
The instructions for assembling the toilet do not end there. Before proceeding with the installation, you need to connect cistern with a bowl. To do this you will need metal pins. Place the tank on the bowl and secure it tightly by putting a special washer on the stud, a rubber gasket and securing it with a nut. Repeat all this with the second hole.
Toilet installation
Instructions for installing a floor-standing toilet
Installing a toilet in a private house with your own hands or in an apartment with the help of a professional - none of this matters. If your choice fell on a floor-standing toilet, then its installation in any case will have to be carried out according to the scheme described below.
- Before installing plumbing, all finishing work must be completed.
- Installing a toilet on a cement or tiled floor has its own characteristics. The floor must be perfectly level, otherwise the toilet itself or the tiles may be damaged when tightening the fasteners.
- Insert the dowels into the holes and screw the plumbing fixture to the floor, but not all the way.
- If you are installing the toilet at some distance from the wall, then it’s time to install the corrugated pipe and finally secure the toilet, checking its strength and immobility. In this case, the pipes are connected using rubber seals and sealant.
- When the installation of the bowl is completed, it’s time to connect the water to the drain barrel and check the functionality of the entire device. To supply water, use a corrugated metal hose, tow and nuts of the required size.
Installing a wall-hung toilet yourself
Installing an installed toilet is not much different from installing a hidden toilet. In both cases, a hanging type bowl is most often used, which obliges us to install not only the cistern, but also a metal frame into the wall with our own hands.
Important: Make sure your wall is strong. It is better if this parameter is assessed by a specialist.
Steel fasteners are mounted using dowels to concrete and reinforced concrete wall(rarely - to brick). The installation height of the toilet is determined independently at this stage.
Following the instructions, secure the toilet bowl and install the flush cistern. Connect them with a flexible hose and connect them to the water supply and sewerage system.
Remember: The tightness of the joints in this case is ensured in exactly the same way as in the case of a floor-standing toilet.
Video
Installing a toilet with your own hands, with a competent approach and a thorough study of the issue, is unlikely to cause you any difficulties. Below you can watch video clips that will make the installation process simple and clear. Happy viewing!
Installation and connection of toilets of almost all modifications is carried out according to the same scheme. Usually the product comes with instructions, after studying which you can carry out the installation yourself. For your convenience, we suggest watching a video tutorial on how to install a toilet correctly.
Choosing a new toilet
Before going to the store for a new toilet, you need to decide on the size of the device and the method of connection to. This will depend on the outlet of the device. She may be three types.
- Vertical.
- Horizontal.
- Oblique.
Vertical sewer pipe
After this, you can select a device from those models whose outlet drain design is suitable for connection to your sewer system. No adapter will help connect a toilet with a vertical flush to a horizontal one. sewer pipe. So this choice parameter is the most important, everything else is a matter of taste and wishes.
The shape of the toilet bowl can be:
- disc-shaped;
- funnel-shaped;
- visor.
Types of toilets according to bowl shape
The visor design prevents the formation of water splashes when flushing. Water flushing can occur in a circular manner or in a continuous stream.
The toilets themselves can be different designs. It can be a monoblock, a corner toilet, a compact toilet or a separate one, when the bowl and toilet are located separately.
Toilets by mounting method
According to the method of fastening, toilets are divided into attached and free-standing. The attached one looks like a wall-hung toilet. Available for sale with or without a tank. Attached different ways. Most often, this is an option with two or four mounting ears for an anchor or screw, but there are models that are attached to special corners fixed to the floor.
Connecting elements
To connect the toilet to the sewer pipe you will need connecting elements. You just need to choose the right one.
All elements are connected hermetically due to rubber seals. The exception is connecting the cuff to an old cast-iron sewer pipe. In this case, the joints are coated with sanitary sealant.
Dismantling the old device
Before starting work, prepare a bucket and rags. First of all, turn off the water supply valve to the drain tank. Drain the water and unscrew the water pipe from the tank. Now we disconnect the tank from the bowl, most likely the fastening bolts are rusted and oxidized or stuck with deposits. Use a hex wrench, if you can't unscrew it, then try to tighten the bolt slightly. The nut should turn with forward and backward movements. Don't try too hard to avoid breaking the tank. If this does not help, then spray the nut with WD-40, kerosene or turpentine. After a day, try to unscrew it again using the rocking method.
Disabling the cistern of an old toilet
Now you can move on to unscrewing the toilet. The fastener can be an anchor bolt with a nut or a dowel. If the toilet was installed many years ago, then it is most likely that it was installed on cement mortar. In this case, it is unlikely that it will be possible to keep it whole, especially if the drain is fixed oil paint with rags or cement coating. The easiest place to start is with the drain neck. Short with a strong blow hit the neck, it will crack and separate from the sewer pipe. You can not hit the sewer, cast iron is a very brittle metal, it can crack or split, adding additional problems.
Toilet dismantling work
Using a chisel and hammer, hammer away the cement mortar at the base of the toilet. Try rocking the device, then tilt the toilet back and drain the water from it into the sewer. Make sure that no debris gets inside the drain pipe. Now, using a screwdriver, carefully clean the neck of the sewer pipe from the solution of other dirt and insert the adapter eccentric collar, previously well lubricated with sanitary sealant. We plug the hole with a rag so that the dangerous and unpleasant aroma of sewer gases does not spoil your mood and health.
Installation: anchors or dowels
Installation on dowels involves installing the product on the bathroom floor without placing any lining such as taffeta under its base. Modern toilets They are produced with mounting holes in the base, so this installation method is the most practical and most frequently used. After leveling the floor or laying tiles, you must perform the following steps:
- using plumbing grease, we put on an eccentric cuff to release the toilet bowl, push the toilet bowl to the intended place, while inserting the cuff into the adapter. By turning the cuff, we align the toilet evenly. With a marker or pencil inserted into the mounting hole, mark the attachment points and the contour of the bowl;
Stages of installing a toilet on dowels
- disconnect the toilet from the adapter and move it away. Use a drill to drill holes for the dowel. Please note, if the holes in the fixing ears of the toilet bowl are oblique, then we drill a hole for the dowel also at an angle. We hammer in the dowels;
- We install the toilet according to the marks and connect it to the sewer. We put a plastic sleeve (or rubber washer) on the screws and bait a little on the dowels;
- we set the bowl according to the level, if the base is not even, then place pieces of rubber or sheet plastic, and then tighten the screws to the end. Do not force yourself too hard to avoid breaking the ceramic. We put a plastic plug on top of the bolt. Cover the gap with silicone sealant, remove excess silicone with wet fingers.
Advice. It is better to try on a toilet with a cistern installed on it, and installation without a cistern.
Installation on taffeta
Installing a toilet on taffeta was previously considered a generally accepted installation method. We will not recommend it, since the toilet bowl installed in this way loosens over time. The reason for this is moisture getting on wooden surface. The board is laid in the floor level with the surface and secured with anchors. The remaining space is filled cement mortar and after the mixture has completely hardened, installation begins. The installation process is the same as installation with dowels, only the mounting ears of the toilet bowl are screwed to the board with self-tapping screws, having previously placed rubber washers under the heads.
Installing a toilet on taffeta
Installation on epoxy resin
If there are no mounting lugs at the base of the toilet model, then such a device is mounted on adhesive connection. This option is suitable for devices in which the flush cistern is mounted on the wall without resting on the toilet bowl or is used instead of a cistern. drain valve. After fitting and applying a contour mark, the surfaces to be glued are lightly processed sandpaper or a corundum stone to give them roughness, and then degrease them with a solvent. Then, epoxy adhesive is applied to the dry surface of the floor with a layer of 4-5 mm and the toilet is pressed with force. After the glue has completely cured, you can use the device.
Installation on epoxy resin
Advice. When working with epoxy glue, use gloves to protect your hands.
Suspended installation system
For installation wall hung toilet you will need a special frame with a drain tank, which is equipped with a drain mechanism and sheathed with insulating material to absorb noise and prevent condensation. Typically, this design is purchased separately from the toilet. The frame is attached to the wall with anchors, and the toilet is hung on it. Communications are hidden inside the frame, which is subsequently sheathed with moisture-resistant drywall and lined. The drain button is mounted in the wall on the front panel of the tank.
Suspended installation system
Connecting the tank to the toilet bowl and water supply
After the toilet is installed, you need to install the flush tank on it. Internal filling assemble according to the instructions. Place a gasket on the bowl (it may have different shape) and fix the tank to the bowl so that it does not move relative to its place. You can glue it to the bowl with silicone. The screws are tightened evenly. We connect the flexible hose from the tank to the water supply. On threaded connections We wind FUM tape for compaction. It would be a good idea to install a shut-off valve on the water pipe.
Connecting the toilet cistern
If it is necessary to repair the product, the tap will allow you to locally shut off the water supply. All that remains is to test the tightness and quality of the system. Shifting the float higher or lower allows you to adjust the level of water filling in the drain tank. Fill the tank with water several times and drain. The absence of leaks and trouble-free operation of the device indicates that the installation was successful. The finishing touch will be the installation of a toilet seat, which after all the work done will be a mere trifle for you.
Toilet installation tutorial: video
How to install a toilet: photo
Having “straight” hands, you can do most of the housework yourself. This category of work also includes installing a toilet. Knowing the sequence of actions, installation or replacement can be done with your own hands.
Installing a toilet with your own hands is a task of medium complexity
Types of toilets
In this article, we will consider not the features of flushing or the shape of the bowl, but those design features that determine the list of installation work.
According to the installation method
The toilet itself consists of a plumbing bowl and a flush cistern. The bowl can be floor mounting or suspended. If the bowl is suspended, then the tank is hidden - built into the wall. In the case of a floor-standing bowl, there are three options for mounting the tank: on a special shelf on the bowl (compact), separate, connected using a flexible hose, in an installation (hidden in the wall of the frame).
The advantage of a floor-standing toilet with a regular flush cistern is its ease of installation. It can be installed without starting repairs. The disadvantage is that compared to a suspended one, it takes up more space and looks heavier. Accordingly, hanging models installation is complicated - it is necessary to fix the supporting structure - installation - in the wall. Perhaps this is only during renovation.
Release to sewer
The choice of toilet for release into the sewer depends on the location of the sewer pipe. They happen:
If the pipe is in the floor, a vertical outlet will be optimal. If the outlet is in the floor, but is close to the wall, it is most convenient to have an oblique toilet. Horizontal option universal. Using a corrugated pipe, it can be connected to both the wall and the floor.
Installation of a toilet with a compact cistern (floor-standing version)
The store usually delivers separately the toilet bowl, cistern, drain device and a float. Before installing the toilet, everything except the float must be assembled.
What does a floor-standing toilet with a compact cistern consist of?
Assembly
The process begins with the installation of a drainage device. It comes assembled, you only need to install it in the hole in the bottom of the tank. A rubber gasket is placed between the drainage device and the tank.
WITH reverse side The supplied plastic washer is screwed onto the pipe. It is tightened by hand, then using a key, but very carefully, since it is easy to break the plastic. To prevent the drain device from spinning, it must be held with your hand.
The next step is to install the mounting screws on the tank. They are also included as standard. These are long thin screws made of galvanized or stainless steel. They are inserted into two small holes at the bottom of the tank, put on rubber gaskets, then washers, and only then screw on the nuts.
Before installing the tank on the toilet bowl, a gasket (included) is placed under the tank. To prevent odors from leaking out of the sewer, it must be “seated” with sealant. First we coat it on one side, place it on the toilet, coat it on the other, and place the tank.
We install the tank on the shelf of the bowl, passing the screws into the corresponding holes. We put washers and nuts on the screws from below and tighten them. At the same time, make sure that the tank is level.
Next, we install a float - a device for controlling the water level in the tank. There are two holes at the top of the tank. Here we insert the device into one of them. It is mounted on the side from which the water supply will be connected.
We wrap a little flax around the outlet pipe, coat it with plumbing paste, and install an angle (brass or stainless steel). Do not overtighten the connection, do not hammer it in; the pipe is made of plastic.
Installing a tee
Floor mounting
The toilet is almost assembled, it can be put back in place. The toilet is connected to the sewer using a corrugated adapter. It has rubber seals at the ends that fit tightly into the pipes and onto the toilet outlet.
If the sewer pipe is plastic, the corrugation is simply inserted until it stops. If the riser is cast iron, and not yet new, so that the smell does not seep through the microcracks, the pipe is cleaned to the metal, washed and dried. A layer of sealant is applied around the circumference of the dry, clean metal (a little more in the lower part), then the corrugation is inserted. To be more sure, you can also apply sealant to the outside of the joint.
In any case, we insert a corrugation into the sewer pipe.
The second end of the corrugation is put on the toilet outlet. This is the connection of the toilet to the sewer. It's so simple. There is only one caveat. So that it can be removed later, the corrugation outlet and the toilet bowl outlet are lubricated with soap soaked in water, and only then the bell is put on. If this is not done, removing the toilet without damaging the corrugation will be problematic. But you still have to drill holes for fasteners. It will be much more convenient to remove rather than try to move a partially fixed device.
Having put the corrugation on the outlet, we position the toilet the way it will stand. Having installed the lid on the tank, we check that there is room for it. Next, you need to sit down, check the comfort of use, and adjust the position if necessary. Then take a pencil or marker, insert it into the holes in the sole, and mark the places for installing the fasteners.
After removing the toilet, drill holes for dowels in the marked places. If the kit comes with plastic fasteners, do not use them - they will break in a few days. It is necessary to immediately install powerful dowels.
If the toilet is installed on tiles, to prevent them from cracking, it is better to cover the glazed surface. Take a self-tapping screw, mark it, and hit it with a hammer several times. This is called “kerning”. Then take a drill or hammer drill and drill the tiles, turning off the impact mode. Once the tiles have been passed through, you can turn on the perforation mode.
Put in holes plastic stoppers from dowels. They must be in the same plane with the floor. If there is a thicker edge, cut it off with a sharp knife.
We sweep the floor, removing dust in the area where the toilet is installed. We put it in place, insert dowels into the holes, and tighten them using the appropriate key. The bolts must be tightened alternately, first on one side, then on the other. Tighten until the toilet is secure and free of play.
The final touch is connecting to the water supply. Connect output water pipe with a tap installed on it with an angle on the tank, which was connected earlier. For this you need a flexible hose. There are union nuts (American) at its ends, so there will be no problems with fastening. We tighten well, but without fanaticism.
How to install a wall-hung toilet with installation
To install wall-hung toilets, the outlet of the sewer pipe must be located near the wall. The specific distance from the wall is indicated by the manufacturer, but it should be small - about 13-15 cm from the far edge. If the exit is from the floor, there is a solution - a special lining, with the help of which the drain is moved closer to the wall.
Installation of a wall-hung toilet begins with attaching stops to the wall installation frame. They are attached in two at the top and bottom. With their help, the distance to the wall is adjusted, the frame is raised and launched.
The upper stops have the form of rods and are adjusted using a socket wrench and a screwdriver. The lower stops are more like plates; they are also adjusted with a socket wrench but with the head positioned on the side.
The assembled frame is placed against the wall, its center is positioned above the middle of the sewer outlet. The mark on the frame rises or falls to the height required by the manufacturer (there is a mark on the frame, also indicated in the passport, usually 1 meter).
With help bubble level The horizontal and vertical installation of the installation for a wall-hung toilet is checked.
Checking horizontality
By adjusting the height of the stops, an equal distance from the wall, specified by the manufacturer, is set. How to conveniently do this, look at the photo.
The exposed frame must be fixed to the wall. Mark them in appropriate places with a pencil or marker and drill holes. Plastic dowel bodies are installed in them. Most of imported wall-hung toilets, but they recommend sealing the dowel bodies with sealant. IN drilled hole Some of the sealant is squeezed out and a dowel is inserted. Then, before installing the fastener itself, the sealant is applied to the plastic housing.
In a fixed installation, you can install connecting elements - pipes, couplings. They all come included and simply snap into place.
Next, metal rods are installed on which the toilet bowl will be supported. They are screwed into the corresponding sockets, and silicone seals are put on top (in the bottom photo these are two rods above the sewer outlet).
The sewer pipe extends to the required distance and is fixed in the specified position using a bracket. It covers the pipe from above and is inserted into the groove until it clicks.
Next, water is connected to the tank. Open the tank lid (it has latches), remove the plug on the side surface. Right or left - depends on where your water supply is. Insert into the opened hole corrugated pipe, the mating part is inserted from the inside, everything is connected using a union nut. It is necessary to tighten without using excessive force - it is plastic.
A tee is installed inside the tank, and a pipe (usually plastic) is connected to the desired outlet. This is done with the help of an adapter and an American one.
The hose from the tank is connected to the special inlet of the tee. It is flexible, in a metal braid. Tightened with a union nut.
Replace the cover. In principle, the installation for the toilet is installed. Now we need to close it. To do this, make a false wall from moisture-resistant plasterboard. It is recommended to use two sheets, but one is also possible. Drywall is attached to the installation frame and to the mounted profiles.
The toilet is placed on pins, its outlet goes into a plastic socket. The connection is sealed additional measures not required. This completes the installation of the toilet.
Manufacturers offer wide choose plumbing Each model has its own and imposes certain requirements on the installation procedure. Do-it-yourself installation of a toilet bowl is possible, but subject to the manufacturer's recommendations. We invite you to familiarize yourself with existing species, the order and features of the work, so that self-assembly is carried out in accordance with regulatory requirements.
In order to correctly place the key ones, you should prepare a drawing on a scale on which the plumbing will be located taking into account sanitary and hygienic standards. You can create a comfortable layout by adhering to the following recommendations:
- The area in front of the toilet must be at least 60 cm long;
- On the sides of the toilet, a free space of at least 25 cm wide should be provided;
- The area in front of the sink should not be narrower than 70 cm;
- The bidet and toilet should be fixed at a distance of at least 35 cm;
- It should be fixed at a height of 60÷80 cm above the floor surface, and - 95 cm.
The recommendations given are relevant for, for which it is enough to follow standard norms, principles of practicality and comfort. IN apartment buildings The placement of plumbing fixtures is regulated by SNiP, which are developed taking into account the safe operation of communications. When planning to do the installation yourself, you should definitely familiarize yourself with the indicated standards.
Basics of choosing the right toilet for your home
When choosing a suitable model, you should take into account the features. Noteworthy:
- The area of the room, which affects the dimensions of the purchased plumbing fixtures;
- Availability, geometric parameters and location of external. Consider how far it will be from the intended installation site of the toilet bowl;
- Location of the sewer pipe;
- Release angle. The best option is the installation of a model with an oblique outlet. If the measurement shows a slight coincidence, you should purchase a special adapter—a drain corrugation—along with the plumbing fixtures.
Manufacturers offer plumbing fixtures of various configurations, which have their own fastening features. The division can be made into floor-mounted and wall-mounted models. The latter require less space to install and are more attractive. appearance. This is a suitable option for. Floor-standing models are more reliable and practical.
- hammer;
- drill (perforator);
- yardstick;
- marker for marking;
- adjustable wrench or set;
- pliers;
- screwdriver.
It is also worth preparing:
- FUM tape;
- flexible hose;
- corrugation;
- silicone sealant with a pistol.
Removing an old toilet
When dismantling, you should follow the instructions in accordance with which the installation of once new plumbing was previously carried out. Do-it-yourself toilet replacement begins with the following work:
- shut off the water supply inside the drain tank;
- drain the water inside the tank;
- unscrew the tank fasteners. With a large thickness lime deposits or if there is rust, use a screwdriver to fix the bolt head and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench;
- Having removed the barrel of the tank, unscrew the fasteners securing the product;
- disconnect the drain from the sewer pipe. If cement coating was previously used during installation, use a chisel to chip off the cement;
- Drain the remaining water from the toilet and set it aside.
Advice! After dismantling, the hole in the sewer pipe should be closed with a fabric plug to prevent it from clogging.
Preparing a new toilet for installation
Having decided to do the installation yourself, you should figure out how to assemble the toilet. Any model includes two components: a bowl and a drain tank. At the preparation stage, these parts should be connected to each other using the fasteners included in the delivery kit.
First, assemble the drain tank. To do this, a drain mechanism and a float are installed. Typically, setting drain mechanism does not cause any difficulties, since it is initially supplied assembled. It is inserted into a special mounting hole at the bottom and secured with a plastic nut, onto which a rubber seal is carefully placed. The tank is secured to the toilet using metal pins and nuts.
Attention! Rubber seals should be used at all connections.
DIY toilet assembly video will allow you to better understand the sequence of work:
How to install a regular toilet with your own hands?
After the plumbing has been assembled, it is worth clarifying how to install the toilet with your own hands. The work can be performed in the following sequence:
| Photo | Description of work |
 | We mark and drill mounting holes in the floor. |
 | We remove the accumulated dirt and dust. |
 | We hammer plastic dowels into the prepared holes. |
 | We install the toilet bowl at the place of future operation and fix its spatial position with the help of bolts. |
If you have not yet figured out how to do the installation yourself, the toilet installation video will help you learn all the main steps:
Installing a toilet with a hidden cistern
Models with hidden tanks allow you to more efficiently manage the available space. They are easy to care for and look stylish. Installation of a built-in toilet can be done in different ways. We invite you to familiarize yourself accessible ways and features of the work.
Installation of a wall-hung toilet with installation
First, you need to decide on the model of plumbing fixtures. Its geometric parameters will affect the requirements for the mounted system. Installation of the pendant can be performed in the following sequence:
| Photo | Description of work |
 | The height of the frame structure is adjustable. |
 | Installation of toilet installation in metallic profile 50 mm wide and screwed to the floor through special mounting holes. |
 | mounted frame system to which it will be attached. |
 | Finishing material is attached. |
 | On seat Silicone sealant is applied. |
 | The fittings included in the delivery kit are inserted into the mounting holes. |
 | The toilet bowl is hung and fixed with the fasteners included in the delivery. |
 | The water connection is made in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. |
Related article:
If you know the current level, it will be easier to check the value of different sales offers. The information in this article will be useful when performing installation operations. with my own hands and to control the actions of professional teams. In particular, they will help to agree correctly when determining the cost of the services of contractors.
Installation of floor models
Instead of mounted model You can install a floor-mounted one with a hidden tank. A large assortment allows you to choose the right option for a toilet in any style.
The technology in this case includes the following steps:
| Photo | Description of work |
 | A niche is being prepared in which the tank will be installed. |
 | Do-it-yourself toilet installation inside a niche and fixing it. |
 | Performed final finishing walls, and plumbing fixtures are installed in a designated place. |
The main types of fastening the toilet to the floor
Fastening to the floor can be done in different ways:
- On, installed in the screed. The hardware is placed in places corresponding to the attachment points of the floor bowl, and then the screed is poured. Enough difficult option, which can be difficult to implement with your own hands without the help of specialists. Insufficient length of the anchors can lead to the fact that after installing the toilet it will be difficult to put the nut on;
- On a wooden base, the geometric parameters of which must correspond to the dimensions of the installed plumbing. Nails are first driven into the board, laid on the floor with nails down, and a screed is poured. During the installation process, the toilet is “seated” on epoxy glue and screwed to wooden base ordinary screws;
- On the dowels. This is how a toilet is most often installed on a tiled floor. After installing the product at the place of future operation, the mounting holes are marked. They should be deep enough to hold the bowl in place. For reliable fastening, the installation of the bowl can be done on epoxy resin and add a certain amount of sealant to the mounting holes.
Advice! To prevent the toilet from cracking during installation, gaskets should be used during installation.
The main types of fastening the toilet to the wall
Depending on the design features specific model You can install a toilet yourself using:
- Frame structure, which is a rigid frame attached to the wall and floor. The tank and pipes can be located behind a false wall;
- Block system. A more affordable and compact option that involves installation exclusively on a permanent wall. Installation is carried out in a specially prepared niche, which is then laid with bricks or blocks.
The main types of connecting the toilet to the sewer
Various adapters are used to connect the system to the sewer. Each type has its own distinctive features. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the main varieties in order to have an idea of options.
Fan pipe or plastic pipe
If you decide to use an adapter, you need to know exactly the characteristics of the model that you plan to install yourself. When choosing suitable option Special attention attention should be paid to the form of the toilet release.
Products with an oblique outlet are mounted in the floor, with a vertical outlet - in the wall, placing the pipe at a right angle. With an oblique outlet, it is permissible to install a “wall”, placing the connecting pipe under acute angle. When replacing plumbing fixtures, you should purchase a model with a similar release, otherwise the use of adapters becomes impossible.
Attention! When using a plastic outlet or fan pipe, changing the geometric shape of the product is unacceptable.
Eccentric
When using an eccentric collar, according to experts, it is not necessary to ensure the tightness of the connection using sealant. At correct location Using special rubber seals, you can achieve a reliable and tight fit of the mating elements. If the pipes are cast from cast iron, it is still worth using a sealant.
Corrugation
Corrugated pipe (corrugation) is used when other materials do not allow to cope with the task. How to install corrugation on a toilet? After fixing the system, work is performed in the following sequence:
- One end of the corrugation is placed in the sewer hole. The joint must be lubricated with silicone sealant;
- The second end is put on the toilet outlet;
- Check the tightness of the connection.
Connecting the bathroom to the sewer is done in three ways. Each of them has its own characteristics. We offer you to find out how you can connect the toilet to the sewer and choose the most suitable option.
Bathroom with vertical outlet
Vertical outlet models are especially popular in European countries. The design of such plumbing products involves the presence of a siphon located in the bowl and an outlet pipe, which is directed downward during installation. This design is universal, and toilets with a vertical outlet can be installed at any angle to the vertical.
Do-it-yourself toilet installation is carried out in the following sequence:
- Markings are being made on the floor;
- A screw flange with a locking device is installed;
- A sewer pipe is mounted in the center of the flange;
- The toilet is mounted on a flange;
- The outlet pipe is fixed.
Bathroom with horizontal outlet
These products are sometimes called direct flush toilets. It is most widespread in Russia. Such products have a rearward outlet. It is connected to the sewer pipe using a special cuff.
Models with a horizontal outlet are most often attached to the floor. The manufacturer provides special connecting holes that allow you to attach the toilet to the floor. Dowels or standard screws are most often used as fasteners.
Advice! Fasteners should be tightened carefully so as not to damage the product.
Toilet with oblique outlet
A toilet with an oblique outlet can be connected as follows:
- Cleans the socket of a cast iron half-bend from old sealing and debris;
- The toilet is installed on a layer;
- Excess cement paste is squeezed out. It should fill the half-bend socket by at least 2 cm.
This method is currently used quite rarely, since dismantling the equipment is quite difficult. Most often, preference is given to standard anchor screws. However, some cement paste may be placed under the bottom of the toilet to compensate for the unevenness.
In some cases, silicone sealant can be used instead of cement paste. However, with a significant or uneven load, the sole of the product may crack.
Then, using a sealing sleeve, the outlet is connected to the cast-iron socket without displacement. With its help you can compensate for the existing horizontal or vertical offset. To ensure maximum tightness on outer surface The couplings are pre-applied with silicone sealant.
Connecting water to the toilet cistern
To provide supply tap water to the drain tank, you can use one of the following methods:
- Bottom eyeliner. Such models create a minimum of noise during operation. However, in the event that during the installation process it was possible to ensure sufficient tightness;
- Side eyeliner. They are easy to install. When performing installation yourself, you may find yourself best choice due to the simplicity of the work. It creates a lot of noise when filling the tank with water. Some models come with a longer pouring stroke to reduce the amount of noise generated;
- Flexible eyeliner. In a similar way, models are most often connected in which the tank is located above the bowl;
- Hard eyeliner. Such a system can last quite a long time.
Connections for all types of hoses are performed in the following sequence:
- A separate tap is installed, with which you can shut off the water supply. The insertion must be carried out according to all the rules;
- One end of the line is connected to the tap and secured with a special nut;
- The second end is connected to the drain tank and secured with a nut;
- The mating surfaces are checked for leaks.
How much will it cost to install a toilet: price for work
If you want to know the price for the work, installing a toilet can be done for a different amount. On average, such services will cost:
We hope you liked the article. Knowing how to properly install a toilet, you can do the entire amount of work yourself. Share in the comments how you solved this problem yourself. If you have any questions, ask. We will definitely answer.
Finally, we suggest watching a video on how to install a toilet correctly step by step.
In cases where there is a desire to save on the services of specialists or simply learn a new construction skill, information on how to properly install a toilet will be useful.
What you need to install
Before installing a toilet with your own hands, you need to make sure you have a number of tools:
- hammer drill or impact drill;
- a drill with a diameter of 8-10 mm (depending on the diameter of the toilet dowel);
- tile drill (if installation is carried out on a tile or ceramic slab);
- adjustable wrench;
- set of wrenches;
- hammer;
- sealant (either in a special tube or together with a sealant gun);
- screwdrivers (flat or Phillips, depending on the design of the toilet);
- adapter sleeve made of rubber 123x100 (if you need to connect to a cast iron socket);
- a set of fasteners for installing a toilet (if it is not included in the kit);
- rags and a container to drain the remaining water from the old toilet.
Before installing the toilet, you need to do some preparatory work. For example, you need to decide how exactly to connect the new toilet to the sewer pipe. The following options are possible:
- Pleated cuff. This method is the most economical, but in this case it is impossible to attach the toilet close to the socket. This matters if the bathroom is small.
- Straight cuff. Firmly and hermetically connects the bowl of the structure with the socket of the sewer system.
- Eccentric cuff. Convenient if the connection centers of the system and the socket are shifted.
Next, it is desirable to replace the old flexible liner for water. The choice of liner is based on the distance from the connections on the pipe with cold water before connecting the toilet filler mechanism. 15-20 cm should be added to this length.
If necessary, you need to purchase adapters in advance for threads at the connection points made of flax or FUM tape.
In the case where it is preserved under the old toilet wooden stand, it must be removed. A nail puller or hammer drill will help with this. You can fill the resulting void with a cement composition, preferably quick hardening, and a spatula.
Video - Self-installation of a toilet
DIY toilet installation
- First you need to turn off the water. Disconnect the flexible hose and flush the toilet.
- Then you need to unfasten the drain tank. You can do it carefully, or you can use a hammer (in case the old toilet is no longer needed).
- You can quickly remove the toilet using a hammer and a hammer drill.
Carefully, so that fragments do not fall into the sewer system, use tools at the place where the toilet is attached to the floor and where the device meets the sewer. Then you need to remove the old bowl by pouring out the remaining water.
Removing the wood plank and leveling the floor
- After the old toilet is removed, you need to thoroughly clean the sewer pipe from dirt and rust. Install a rubber adapter sleeve 123x100 into the socket, having previously covered it with sanitary sealant.
- Then plug the hole with a rag so that odors do not interfere with further work.
- Next you need to delete wooden board and fill the resulting void with repair composition.
- Level with the floor using a spatula.
Marking and installation of dowels
- Place the bowl of the new toilet in the planned location. Make markings through the holes in the bowl on the floor so you can see where to drill. The holes in the toilet bowl are located at an angle, in which case you also need to drill at an angle.
- Once the markings have been made, the toilet can be removed. Next, you need to drill holes in the previously marked locations and insert dowels.
Securing the toilet cistern
- In accordance with the instructions supplied with the toilet, you need to install the cistern fittings. There are some peculiarities in this procedure.
- The drain and fill valve nuts must be tightened by hand, while at the same time holding the valve itself, thereby protecting it from turning and possibly damaging the gasket.
- The valves must be installed so that during operation the moving elements do not touch each other or the walls of the tank.
- If you are unsure about the quality of the tank walls and gaskets, sanitary sealant should be used.
The drain mechanism is available in a collapsible type to facilitate the installation process.
Installing a toilet bowl
- The connecting cuff is attached with the petal part to the transition cuff 123x100, inserted into the socket pre-treated with sealant. The outlet of the toilet bowl is inserted into the transition collar until it stops.
- You should turn the cuff so that the toilet bowl is in a level position and all the mounting holes are aligned.
- The bowl is secured to the floor surface with screws and plastic washers. In cases where the floor surface is uneven, you need to use shims made from pieces of plastic to level the toilet before finally tightening it.
Connection between bowl and drain tank
Before installing the drain tank on the bowl of the structure, you need to put a gasket between them. For reliability and to avoid displacement of the gasket, it is better to glue it to the bowl with sealant in advance.
After securing the tank to the bowl, tighten the screws evenly. After this, install the tank lid and the drain button. Then secure the flexible liner.
Checking the functioning of the system
At the end of all work, you need to carry out a check - fill the tank with water and do a test drain. The amount of water drained can be adjusted; how to do this is written in the instructions.
Inspect all elements for any leaks. If they occur, check the tension strength and, if necessary, disassemble the assembly, re-treat it with sealant, then tighten it properly.
If the reason is a faulty part, purchase a new part and replace it.
Final stage
Install the toilet seat and fill the gaps between the toilet and the floor surface with sealant.
Doing such work with your own hands is not particularly difficult if you adhere to the above recommendations and rules. Good luck!
