DIY bas-relief sketches. How to make a bas-relief from decorative plaster with your own hands? We create a full-fledged bas-relief

Anton Tsugunov

Reading time: 4 minutes

People always strive to make their home unique and beautiful. And no matter how difficult it is to achieve originality in a typical apartment, there is always a way out. One of the most non-trivial and elegant solutions is to create . Many novice masters think that this is too much hard work, however, this is not at all the case. To fashion wall panel, you don’t have to be an artist or sculptor. After watching a video with a master class on creating a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands for beginners, and getting acquainted with step by step instructions, given below, you can easily cope with the task.

Required materials and tools

To create a bas-relief, you will need some specific tools that can be purchased at hardware and art stores.

List of materials and devices that will be needed for work:

• thumbnail image;
• polyethylene film;
• trowel;
• pencil;
• marker or pen;
• stencils;
• gypsum or gypsum putty (you can also use clay or alabaster);
• special primer;
• paint brushes;
• palette knives (special spatulas different sizes, which are used to create three-dimensional images, can be plastic or metal);
• sculptural loops;
• masking tape;
• latex gloves;
• for colored bas-reliefs - color or paint of the desired shade.

Preparation

All master classes on bas-relief begin with preparing a sketch. But the very first, preparatory step is choosing the room and wall where you plan to create a volumetric composition.

• First you need to think about the interior of the room where the bas-relief will be located. Three-dimensional images can be made in any room, but most often they can be seen in living rooms and bedrooms.
• Then you need to decide on the wall on which the bas-relief will be created. In this case, you need to take into account how much space the panel will take up and whether there is enough free space for it. Lighting must be taken into account, since the perception of the work depends on light. If it is not enough, it makes sense to organize additional illumination of the bas-relief.

Now you can choose the appropriate sketch. Beginners should not immediately take on complex multi-layered and very voluminous figures. To gain experience, you can limit yourself to more than simple forms: leaves, flowers or fruits. Don't try to do difficult things right away. plot picture where there are many characters. But there is also no point in taking too primitive images: they will not look very interesting.

It is easier for beginning craftsmen to work with gypsum or gypsum plaster. They are flexible, hold their shape well, and set quickly.

Creating a bas-relief from gypsum plaster

• Now the base is prepared. A layer of acrylic putty or Marseilles wax is applied to the wall. After this, you can treat the wall with fine-grained gypsum (satengypsum), then it will not be perfectly smooth, and the putty will stick to it better. This will be the basis of the future bas-relief. The putty is leveled with a spatula, then the layer is allowed to dry a little.
• When the material begins to set, after about 15–20 minutes, you can transfer your design onto it. The film is fixed to the wall using masking tape. In this case, one edge must be left free so that you can lift it when needed. Then the stencil on polyethylene is outlined with a pencil or other suitable object, such as the back of a brush or stylus. The image is imprinted on the wall.

Stage No. 2. Main part

Now we proceed directly to the formation of the bas-relief. This is the longest stage, during which the image gradually becomes embossed.

• The putty is applied layer by layer to the wall along the drawn contour.
• Each layer is allowed to dry, and only then the next one is applied.

The putty should be moderately thick, flexible and harden gradually.

• All details of the bas-relief are drawn with palette knives, and sculptural loops are used in difficult places.

If the parts are very convex, then it is advisable to screw self-tapping screws into the wall, which will reinforce the structure. This will allow the bas-relief to maintain its shape and not crumble.

Stage No. 3. Refinement, fixing and painting

The final stage is fixing the bas-relief and its subsequent painting.

• The finished panel must be dried thoroughly.
• Then you can trim the bas-relief with sandpaper, smooth out roughness and sharp corners. The important thing here is not to overdo it or remove too much. At the same stage, all minor flaws are corrected: cracks are covered, small parts are cut, etc.
• The finished bas-relief is treated with a primer, and after it dries - with paint. For putty, water-based paint is best suited.

Advice. To prevent the wall around the bas-relief from looking too smooth, you can apply a layer of plaster to it, and then walk over it with a folded plastic bag or crumpled paper. The surface will immediately become textured.

Creating a bas-relief from plaster

Separately, you should look at how to make a bas-relief on a wall with your own hands from plaster, since the technology is somewhat different. This plastic material, which offers many options, is convenient and easy to work with for both professionals and beginners.

For sculpting three-dimensional parts, it is better to use a mixture of gypsum and PVA glue. The consistency of the material should resemble plasticine.

• It is not necessary to form each bas-relief detail layer by layer for a long time. For most standard images, ready-made forms are produced. They can be found in specialty stores and craft departments. The gypsum mixture is poured into the molds and dried. The finished elements are removed from the molds and the panels are glued in the right places. Simple compositions can be composed entirely of such elements.

• Some details will have to be sculpted by hand and then stuck to the wall, for example, grape brushes or a miniature leaf are made this way.
• If the parts are quite large, then it is advisable to place wire inside the mold, which will reinforce the structure.
• When the image is ready, all the cracks are sealed. To do this, you can use both the solution itself and white sealants.
• The finished painting is coated with a primer, thanks to which the bas-relief will not crumble or get dirty.

Once upon a time, decorating the interior with stucco molding and bas-reliefs was available only to the highest nobility, the rich and large temples. Nowadays, making a bas-relief with your own hands is just a matter of labor and patience. Achievements modern technologies allow people who do not have an art education, but who are not devoid of artistic taste and imagination, to bypass the technical difficulties of creating stucco molding at home. Create bas-reliefs like those in Fig. Below, it is quite possible for a patient and attentive amateur.

New materials

Besides traditional material for stucco - gypsum - do-it-yourself stucco can be created from modern building mixtures with polymer additives; they are often combined under the general name “acrylic plasters”. You can learn how to increase the volume of a bas-relief with construction putty compounds from the video:

Video: sculpting a bas-relief from putty

Hobbyists also use a basic composition of architectural plaster, acrylic plaster and PVA glue in a ratio of 1:1:0.5 by volume. The gypsum and plaster mixture are mixed dry and sealed with water, i.e. add water to the mixture, not the other way around. Bring to a dough consistency like yogurt or low-fat kefir and add PVA, stirring thoroughly. The thickness of the mixture is selected according to the type of work with it, in which case which mixture is needed, see below.

The bas-relief on the wall is made using the technique of low relief (top left in the figure) or high, with protruding figures (top right). A high bas-relief is also called high relief. Technically, high relief differs from low bas-relief in that the figures are sculpted like a round sculpture (see below). Low bas-relief looks good in any lighting, except very dim, and high relief looks better in diffused light.

In living spaces, which are often lit quite brightly and evenly, it makes sense to use a mixed bas-relief technique (bottom left), without making the figures very convex. How to sculpt the bas-relief “Klimt Tree”, see for example. Master class video below:

Video: master class bas-relief “Klimt’s Tree”

The peculiarity of this work is that it uses almost all the techniques for creating bas-reliefs at home. Having become familiar with them visually, it will be easier for you to understand further and apply them in any of the techniques described below.

Note: At one time, the Austrian artist Gustav Klimt created the composition “Tree of Life”. Her style is so unique that the expression “Klimt tree” has become popular.

Reverse bas-relief, or counter-relief (bottom center in the top figure) is no longer stucco, but stone carving (the contours are cut in depth), which is technically much more complex. Therefore, we only note that the counter-relief needs bright and sharp oblique light, because the image actually draws a shadow. There is also a special type of bas-relief - shadow, lower right, where the entire pattern is formed by shadows from small and minute protrusions and depressions of a certain shape. When the direction and angle of incidence of light changes, the pattern changes, even changing facial expressions throughout the day. Shadow bas-relief is the highest art and, alas, short-lived: the protrusions and depressions become clogged and lose their shape when cleaned. The drawing fades, blurs, disappears.

Bas-relief techniques

Stucco molding on the wall at home can be done in one of the following ways, in order of increasing technical complexity:

1. Plastering of free ones, i.e. models that were not initially fixed to the supporting surface and cannot be removed;
2. Plastering of non-removable models on the supporting surface. These methods are especially good for beginners, because... allow you to receive the corresponding high and low relief, without risking the need to redo the whole work again in case of failure;
3. Reverse casting from plaster according to the model to be removed. The method is somewhat more labor-intensive, but also suitable for beginners, because... You can pore over the model as much as you like until it is perfect. In addition, in one mold (form, mold) made according to a model, up to 20-30 identical products can be cast at home;
4. Artistic plaster stucco by location, i.e. directly on the supporting surface. It requires thorough skills, but makes it possible to create large relief panels covering the entire wall, with contours around corners, going to the ceiling, and complete freedom of creative expression.

In place or on a sheet?

It is possible to make a bas-relief using methods 2-4 both locally and in parts on a table or floor. An excellent basis for fragments of a prefabricated bas-relief - plasterboard sheet, GKL. It is prepared as a base surface (see below), on separate sheets or pieces thereof the desired shape parts of the overall picture or complete compositions are brought out (see fig.), and mounted on a leveled wall.

The fastener heads and joints of the fragments are puttied with a base compound, then plastered and rubbed to match the base texture. Another good thing about prefabricated bas-reliefs is that a piece damaged due to inexperience can be remade without touching the rest. The bad thing is that the whole composition turns out to be heavy; It is impossible to attach a prefabricated bas-relief to weak walls (plasterboard, PHB partitions, etc.). however, it is generally not recommended to load weak walls with bas-reliefs - the load-bearing base must be stronger than the material of the composition.

Tool

Making a bas-relief will require you to acquire some special tools. Not very expensive, but you can’t count on success without it. First of all, half a rubber ball for kneading the next portion of the working mixture. Everything falls out of it at once if you turn it inside out, and the dried remains fly off in the same way. The bas-relief will be stronger and more beautiful the faster it is formed, i.e. the further the working solution is from the beginning of setting. The kneading ball eliminates wasted time on shaking, scraping, etc. to zero. It is also more convenient to collect the solution in small portions from a ball, because... There are no corners inside. For the same reason, the batch turns out to be more homogeneous (homogeneous), and this is one of the most important factors the ultimate artistry of the bas-relief.

Next, you will need spatulas for modeling - palette knives. Set of 6 pieces (item 1 in the figure) is enough for a start. For forming bunches of grapes, scales, etc. Convex-concave spatulas are also needed. Sets with these are expensive, up to 30 thousand rubles. (!) for a set of 48 items, so amateurs often use spoons of different sizes instead (coffee, tea, dessert, table), with rounded and pointed tips. However, you can’t just create low relief with spoons; the bend of the handle gets in the way. Therefore, for each spatula, take 2 spoons made of aluminum and other ductile metal. One is used as is, it will be a convex spatula. And the other handle at the scoop itself is twisted 180 degrees and bent back, you get a concave spatula.

Note: good convex-concave palette knives come out of disposable plastic spoons and forks. To obtain concave spatulas, their handles are heated with a lighter near the scoop, twisted and bent while heated.

You will also need another palette knife - an artistic knife, pos. 2. Painters use it to clean old paint from the palette, and the sculptors trim the edges, cut off the flash, and create a fine texture. A palette knife can be perfectly replaced with a wide shoe knife.

Next necessary tool– a confectionery syringe with nozzles (items 3 and 4) and, possibly, a 20 ml medical syringe without a needle. It is highly advisable to take a confectionery syringe with a trigger drive (item 4). Mixtures for bas-reliefs are not nearly as fluid as cream for cakes, and you need to form twigs, roses, leaves with a syringe (well, we’ve all seen how to decorate cakes) by holding it with both hands; Hold the instrument at the tip with your left hand.

Finally, you will need 2-3 flat painting brushes of different sizes and the same number of round, cheapest, ox-ear bristles. There is no point in buying expensive squirrel and kolin for bas-relief “for the sake of coolness”, they are too soft. You will also need a very hard and rough children's nylon brush for painting. Use brushes to create texture (see below) and plaster small areas of the bas-relief.

Working with and caring for the tool

Palette knives and brushes are dipped in water before adding the next portion of the mixture. Residues and drips on the working part are the key to spoiled work. After work, the syringe is disassembled and lowered into water in parts; Palette knives and brushes are also placed there. When the instrument becomes acidic, the remaining working materials are thoroughly washed off it. clean water. By the way, a properly cared for pastry syringe after working on the bas-relief is also suitable for use for its intended purpose. All instruments must be stored absolutely clean.

Bas-relief technologies

Creating a bas-relief on the walls in an apartment (or on plasterboard sheets, if the bas-relief is prefabricated) is carried out in stages as follows:

• The base surface is cleaned of old decoration, leveled with an accuracy of no worse than 2 mm/m, primed and covered with a base compound or any decorative plaster (see also below). GKL for prefabricated bas-relief does not require leveling;
• The background texture is applied to the base coating: with a foam rubber or fleecy roller, by “slapping” with foam rubber or felt, etc. At the same stage, the base is tinted, see below. If the base coating is decorative plaster, texture creation and tinting are not required;
• In one way or another (from those indicated above and described below), the relief is formed. During the formation of the relief, tinting is possible similar to that for the base;
• If necessary, the relief is painted over the top when completely dry. It is convenient to do surface painting with special paints for gypsum stucco - they are immediately shaded into very subtle halftones with a damp sponge. Acrylic paints will give sharper color transitions;
• The completely dried relief is covered with styrene-butadiene latex (sold in construction stores). The colors on dried gypsum stucco fade, like on frescoes, and latex treatment restores their color;
• After 1-2 weeks, so that the excess latex is completely absorbed and evaporated, the finished relief is varnished as needed acrylic varnish.

How to tint stucco?

From the video above it is clear that the stucco bas-relief needs to be formed in layers. To tint the base for the relief and, if necessary, its details, apply thin layers, 1-2 mm each. Typically, layers of thick, low-fat sour cream are applied with a brush and smoothed with a palette knife. The batch for each layer is tinted with a color (pigment) for plaster; the deeper, the darker, or vice versa. For example, for the bark of a tree they take a brown pigment of ever-decreasing concentration, and for leaves they add green pigment as they move outward. The next layer is applied to the set but still wet previous one. The texture with shades can be applied immediately with a brush or then rubbed with zero-grit sandpaper or, rough on large areas, wire brush. For more information on tinting gypsum stucco, see the following video.

Video: how to cover a bas-relief on a wall

"Free" plastering

This method is used to create tall floral bas-reliefs or low patterned overlays from disposable paper napkins. From the latter, using an inverted plate or bowl greased with lanolin as a model, you can get a plaster vase, but its practical meaning is more than doubtful. The base solution described above is not used. It is durable, holds its shape well, but its color is not pure white. Also, tinting is not used due to excessive consumption of material; finished elements are painted.

For plastering, a liquid, almost watery solution of architectural plaster is prepared. The model is dipped in it ( artificial flower, napkin) and place it on a board covered plastic film. Flowers are placed in the position in which they will be in the finished composition, see fig. When the solution has set, dip it again, then again, until the model is plastered with a layer 1-1.5 mm thick.

Flowers for drying are placed in the same position each time. In this way, flat areas are formed on them, allowing them to be firmly glued to the base. Glue with acrylic plaster of sour cream thickness or acrylic glue. You can also glue PVA.

Plastering on site

This is perhaps the most affordable way make, say, a molded lampshade for a chandelier (see figure) without experience. Plastering the model in place differs from the previous method in that the model is first glued in place and then plastered with a brush. The plaster solution is made thicker, like sour cream. If the stucco is on the ceiling, the layers are applied very thin, translucent, so that there are no drips. Accordingly, up to 10-15 or more layers will be required.

The main problem here is the material of the model. They are usually made from polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane and other soft plastics. But over time they all decompose. This happens very slowly, but still, after 3-7 years, dirty gray or yellow-brown irremovable stains begin to appear on the stucco. Therefore, it is best to sculpt models for on-site plastering from salted dough, the same dough from which you make your own Christmas tree decorations. For plaster, stone and other mineral building materials salty dough glued with acrylic glue or any mounting glue. Stucco molding based on non-removable salt dough models retains its appearance for 30-50 years or more.

Reverse casting...

This is the most common way to create stucco with your own hands, allowing you to obtain results of a completely professional appearance and quality without excessive work and skill. The classic procedure for reverse casting from plaster is shown step by step on the left in the figure, pos. a-e. Model 1 made of plaster, plasticine, plastic, etc., or an exemplary product that it is desirable to repeat/replicate, is placed on flat shield 2. Now, to make it easier to remove the mold with the model, the shield is covered with film.

Then the model is coated with a thin layer of lanolin. It is not advisable to use medical Vaseline; the model may stick to the mold. A plaster and any other porous (wooden, salt dough, stone, etc.) model is coated several times, allowing the lanolin to soak in for an hour or two, until a solid greasy sheen appears on the surface.

Next, the model is coated with a layer of gypsum or alabaster mortar of 3 dough thickness, approx. 1 cm, immediately forming protrusions-anchors 4 and stiffening ribs 5. The set and almost hardened, but still slightly pliable coating is tied with a frame made of soft (annealed) steel wire 6. The branches of the frame are fastened with ties 7 made of thin copper wire.

The next step is coating 9 with a thick cement-sand mortar from M150 in a layer up to 5 or more cm thick, this is already a casting mold. Here you need to remember to form the supporting surface of the mold 8. After a time of gaining 3/4 of the strength with cement-sand mortar (7-20 days, depending on external conditions), the finished mold 10 is separated from the shield using a wedge 11. Well, what if the shield was covered film, the mold is simply removed.

Finally, inner surface The molds are cleaned with a copper brush 12 and, if necessary, defects are corrected with plaster or alabaster mortar. The burr is removed from the side of the mold 13 and, from its internal edge, a chamfer of approx. 0.7 mm. In a mold without a chamfer, the casting will almost certainly get stuck. Before casting, the inner surface of the mold is coated with lanolin, like a model. The mold is filled with the casting mass layer by layer. As soon as its penultimate layer begins to set, eyes with mustaches are inserted into it (upper right in the figure), by which the casting is then pulled out. For small ebbs, the eyes can be made from paper clips. The last layer is poured when the eyes are already firmly seated in the penultimate one, i.e. when it is completely hard, but still slightly damp. It is unacceptable to test the firmness of the lugs by shaking them!

Currently for runs up to 15-20 pcs. in the old fashioned way they do not cast from plaster; the mold for such cases is cast from silicone (bottom right). Model prepared as before. case, pour silicone layer by layer, in layers 1-2 mm thick, until a mold thickness of approx. 1.5-2 cm. In addition to technological simplicity, the silicone mold allows you to produce castings with shallow recesses, because it is elastic and stretchable.

Also, small rounded plaster parts are poured into silicone molds: berries (see figure), acorns, mushrooms, etc., even small fish. In this case, a flask tray is sculpted from plasticine, and the model is also sculpted from plasticine. The silicone is poured into the flask all at once; The flask and the model are not coated with anything. Once the silicone has hardened, the mold is simply torn off and the model is picked out. This is the so-called. mini – reverse casting of plaster.

...and not the other way around

In plaster mini-casting, a removable model is already used; I mean, the model disappears and needs to be made again for the next batch of castings. A silicone mold can also be made for plaster casting using a lost wax model, then from it it will be possible to obtain up to 100-200 or more castings, but convex ones, without depressions. In this case, the flask is made in the form of a box without a bottom made of plywood with a height 2-3 cm greater than the height of the model and a size such that the gap between the flask and the model is at least 1-1.5 cm.

The model is formed from wax on a board covered with film. Then they place the flask and cover the gap at the bottom with plasticine. Next, the model is doused with silicone in layers, as in the previous one. case, and when its last layer hardens, silicone is also added layer by layer along the contour until the mold is filled to the top. As soon as the last layer is poured, fill the plywood bottom. The model is melted with a household hairdryer: the lousiest silicone holds 140 degrees, which a hair dryer does not provide.

Modeling

Sculpting a bas-relief in place allows, as mentioned above, to achieve maximum artistic effect, but requires certain skills. You can purchase them without enrolling in an evening department at an art university or courses. Just practice with plasticine; The technique is the same, only when working with plaster the time is limited - work with the next section must be completed before it begins to set. Technically, plaster modeling is distinguished between low (flat) and high (round).

Flat

The technique of flat plaster modeling is shown in the selection of photos below. The rules here are like this. First, the material of thick dough or rich sour cream is applied in layers. Second, each layer is first smoothed, forming a relief at the same time, and then its contour is trimmed. The third, next layer, as in general in layer-by-layer filling with gypsum, is applied to the set but still wet previous one. Fourth, as the layers build up, they move to more small tool. And fifth, in each layer the work is carried out from the thinnest and small parts to thick and rough. In this case, from the leaf teeth to its petiole.

About branches

It is best to remove branches on bas-reliefs with a pastry syringe or, very thin ones, with a medical syringe. The thickness of the branches is adjusted by pressing harder and weaker on the piston (item 1 in the figure). In this case, the texture is applied with a brush, and the kinks are formed with the tip of a palette knife. The syringe is filled with the base solution, and for painting and for snow-white it is plaster, like a non-removable model in place.

Strongly twisting branches (item 2) can be obtained by soaking a cord or twine in a gypsum solution of sour cream thickness, laying it on a board covered with film along the contour, and when dry, gluing it to the wall. If the bas-relief is prefabricated, lay out the cord immediately, it will dry firmly. To obtain branches of decreasing thickness, some of the strands are removed or, conversely, 3-5 branches of twine are twisted at the butt, then 2-3, then left alone. If the cord is visible through the plaster, the branch is additionally gypsumed in place, applying the solution with a brush

Note: branches for bas-relief made of gypsum cord can be soaked several times in tinted mixtures. The desired color is obtained by grouting with sandpaper.

Sharp ribs

You've probably seen sharp ribs in pictures with bas-reliefs. They are formed by folding large and index fingers, and the thumbs - with the fingers of both palms bent back. The height and thickness of the rib is changed by smoothly moving/spreading the fingers (palms) in motion as the rib is formed. Fingers, as in general for hand sculpting, should be slightly damp.

Round

The basis of the round molding is a wire frame anatomically similar to the object, i.e. with the proportions of the object and the location of the branches where the main bones of the skeleton are. The frame in a round figure works in the same way as the skeleton of a living creature. Information about skeletons can be gleaned from any course on the plastic anatomy of humans, animals and birds. Plastic anatomy is a discipline not of medical, but of artistic education. The material there is presented from the point of view of how to sculpt, and not how to treat, and is designed for listeners who are not inclined to the subtleties and rigors of science.

The figure is approx. from 30-40 cm is molded onto the frame as shown in pos. 1 pic. For figurines smaller frame make it simplified (item 2), but observing the principle of anatomical similarity. In humans, by the way, it is not so complicated: we divide height by 8; 1/8 of it will be the dimensional module of a harmonious human body, pos. 3.

The frames of small animal figurines are made in a similar way (items 4a and 4b). It is advisable to reduce the weight of larger figures so that there is less fuss with securing the bas-relief (see below). In this case:

• The basic frame (pos. 5a) is made voluminous approximately along the contours of the body minus 1-3 cm for modeling, with the help of additional. branches from the same wire (pos. 5b). Auxiliary branches are attached to the main ones and fastened together with a thin winding copper wire, and even better - soldering.
• In a liquid plaster solution, like low-fat kefir, rolls of medical bandage are soaked, as for plaster casting broken limbs (see, for example, the film “The Diamond Arm”), and the frame is wrapped with a plaster bandage, pos. 5th century It is the rolls that need to be soaked: as soon as the bandage begins to peel off poorly from the skein, it means that the plaster has begun to harden and the rest of the roll goes to waste.
• Once the plaster frame has completely dried, it is covered in layers with a base solution (tinting can be used), the shape and texture are adjusted with tools and sandpaper, and it is plastered to pure white (if necessary) with a solution of architectural plaster.

Note: for frames of unfolded wings of birds, butterflies, elves, bats, ghouls, dragons, etc. It is convenient to use thin and fine metal mesh. Another option is branches of the main branches, covered with paper or scraps of nylon tights.

Support for figures

Figures for homemade high reliefs are sculpted separately; the location is too difficult. Therefore, each figure must have a flat area, and on the base surface, respectively. flat so that the shapes can be glued into place.

How to attach bas-reliefs

The high relief with round figures turns out to be quite heavy. If per 1 sq. dm. its supporting area is more than 1.5-2 kg, the bas-relief needs to be reinforced. Corrugated nails 80-120 mm, driven into plastic dowels, are best suited for this. The attachment points are marked in advance under the thickest places, distributing them as evenly as possible over the area. The nail in the dowel should sit in the wall at least to a depth of 50-60 mm. The protrusion above the wall is 1.5-2 cm, for which the nail driven into the dowel is bitten off. The bas-relief mass above the protruding fastening peg should be at least 1-1.5 cm.

Superbas-relief

And in conclusion - how to try yourself in the elite technique of shadow bas-relief. All you need for this is a piece of plasterboard with a layer of fresh base solution of approx. 0.5 cm and nail 100-150 mm. You need to carefully remove the flash from the edges of the nail tip to get a regular 4-sided pyramid.

Bas-reliefs have been used for decoration since ancient times various kinds products and structures. Today, similar decorative elements have found application in a wide variety of areas.

Bas-relief in the interior

The use of bas-reliefs gives quite a wide scope for interior decoration. For example, you can create a separate panel in the form of a painting to decorate an empty wall.

Bas-reliefs are often used for... The bas-relief in combination with original lighting creates a truly original picture - thanks to the lighting, all the convexities of the image will be visible even more clearly.

Bas-reliefs are great for decorating various kinds of openings.

Unlike another popular interior design option - decorative painting - bas-reliefs do not need additional highlighting with color.

In the absence of color highlighting, a three-dimensional pattern will appear due to the play of light under well-arranged artificial lighting. Thus, the owner has the opportunity to create accents on decorative elements at the specific time he needs - just turn on the lighting.

In addition to purely decorative functions, bas-reliefs also perfectly cope with various kinds of functional tasks. For example, volumetric decoration allows you to level out uneven surfaces and decorate engineering Communication, visually distort the space at the owner’s discretion, create smooth transitions between different functional areas.

A competent combination of volumetric relief and decorative painting allows you to create truly original and incredible effects.

However, despite its many advantages, bas-relief remains not such a popular option for decorating rooms. The essence of the problem lies in the high cost of arranging such volumetric elements.

Uninformed people often make the mistake of believing that the bas-relief is a prefabricated structure cast from plaster. In reality, such decoration is arranged manually and is inherently exclusive. Consequently, to arrange a beautiful bas-relief image you will have to put in a lot of effort, but if you really want to, you can handle all the activities yourself.

General guidelines for creating bas-relief

To create a bas-relief with your own hands, you can use a wide variety of materials: gypsum, gypsum-based plaster, alabaster, clay, etc. For beginners, it is easiest to work with gypsum and plaster based on it.

First step

Build a box with low walls from slats and plywood, more like a tray. According to their own overall dimensions the box must correspond to the dimensions of the future relief slab - this is where the bas-relief will be created.

Instead of a box, you can use other available means, for example, a candy box or a suitable-sized frame glued to the glass with adhesive tape.

Second step

Line the mold with polyethylene. Straighten the film so that there are no folds or there are as few as possible.

Third step

Follow the manufacturer's instructions and pour it into the mold.

If you plan to create an ornament with high relief, insert wire into the slab for additional reinforcement of the future composition.

Fourth step

Leave the poured mixture for the initial setting period. This indicator is individual for different materials, please check separately.

Fifth step

Start creating a bas-relief. First, you need to apply the outline of the decorative ornament being created to the slab, and then begin to increase the volume inside the designed outline from the newly prepared mixture.

Build up the volume in layers, allowing each layer to harden a little.

Quite convenient - while the material is wet, you can easily get rid of its excess using a knife, and the ornament itself can be adjusted with a chisel and wood cutting tools.

In addition, not completely dry material can be easily sanded. It is much more difficult to carry out the necessary treatment of a hardened surface.

If you plan to create an in-depth image, you can solve the problem using two methods.

1. The background layer is built up around the image, as a result of which the elements of the ornament appear in some recess. Finally, the background plane is sanded.
2. The images are deepened by removing some of the base material using the chisel and chisels you are already familiar with.

Find out how to do it, and also check out an overview of the basic techniques in our new article.

Prices for popular types of plaster

Plaster

Bas-relief with specific examples

To make the process of creating a bas-relief more understandable, you should consider the order of arranging such decor on specific examples. We offer you the two most popular options - “lilies” and “tulips”. Having mastered the order of their arrangement, you will be able to cope with the creation of decorative bas-reliefs of almost any complexity.

"Lilies"

First step. Protect the base to be decorated by covering the required area with masking tape.

Second step. Cover the base with putty, let it dry and apply primer. It is best to use primer paint. This composition is notable for the fact that after drying, the grains of sand included in the mixture remain on the base. Thanks to the roughness created, subsequent layers of finishing are held as firmly as possible. On average, primer paint dries within 2-3 hours.

Third step. Apply a starting layer of Marseilles wax to the surface. This material hardens quite quickly, on average within 3-4 hours at room temperature.

Fourth step. Peel back the film and draw the details of the bas-relief. To do this, you need to secure a transparent plastic film on top of the working surface over its entire length and width. The bottom edge, however, does not need to be fixed - you should still be able to bend it freely.

Fifth step. Using a marker, draw a sketch of the future “lilies” on the plastic film - stems, leaves, buds.

Sixth step. Once the sketch is completely completed, proceed to apply Marseilles wax under plastic wrap according to the sketch. First use a trowel and then a palette knife.

The Marseille wax used has White color. To make the created decor more noticeable, cover the finish suitable composition. For example, you can use water slightly colored with poppy seed. This type of composition can only be applied to a dried surface.

After tinting, you will immediately see in which places the finishing material needs to be given the outline of stems, flowers, etc.

Your task is to make the planned bas-relief as realistic as possible and consistent with the sketch. This will take you a lot of time, so there is no need to rush to finish everything as quickly as possible. Work carefully, thoughtfully and gradually.

After giving the bas-relief the required shape, let the composition harden and begin applying the second layer decorative finishing- desired color.

Prepare the paint according to the manufacturer's instructions. On average similar paint and varnish compositions dry for 5-8 hours. Specify the specific time in the description of the paint used.

At the end, all you have to do is apply the final layer of finishing - ottocento or another composition with similar properties. Armed with a wide brush, apply a double layer of Totcento to the entire area of ​​the wall to be decorated. The second layer can be applied only after the first has dried. On average, this takes 1-3 hours. You must carefully paint over each element of the composition.

To give the composition additional visual volume and expressiveness, apply white etching to individual areas of the bas-relief.

"Tulips"

And the actual work of creating “tulips” is carried out according to a scheme already familiar to you, namely:

Read, practical guide for, in our new article.

Creating a bas-relief with my own hands is a rather complex, painstaking, lengthy undertaking that requires significant financial costs. However, with the right approach, you can give the interior of your home a unique look.

Good luck!

Video - DIY bas-relief on the wall

1. Introduction

2. Materials and techniques used for bas-relief 3. Bas-relief in modern interior 4. Use of bas-relief 5. Choice of subject 6. Gypsum stucco molding polyurethane stucco molding

Obviously, everyone knows what a bas-relief is. As the all-knowing Wikipedia clarifies, bas-relief is one of the types of sculptural images on a plane. Not to be confused with high relief. The bas-relief is a three-dimensional image that protrudes slightly above the plane. It is also called low relief. IN Everyday life We replaced the word “bas-relief” with several synonyms: decorative modeling, stucco molding, three-dimensional panel.

Materials and techniques used for bas-relief

To make bas-reliefs, the most various materials: gypsum, stone, marble, plaster, metal, clay, etc. Usually bas-relief images are human figures, landscapes, objects and buildings, plants and entire artistic compositions. Bas-relief is used both inside and outside buildings.

Bas-relief is used both inside and outside buildings.

The bas-relief is a three-dimensional image that protrudes slightly above the plane. It is also called low relief. In everyday life, we replaced the word “bas-relief” with several synonyms: decorative modeling, stucco, three-dimensional panels Materials and techniques used for bas-relief To make bas-reliefs, a variety of materials are used: plaster, stone, marble, plaster, metal, clay, etc. Usually bas-relief images represent human figures, landscapes, objects and buildings, plants and entire artistic compositions. Bas-relief is used both inside and outside buildings. Michail Rybakov

Typically, bas-relief images represent human figures, landscapes, objects and buildings, plants and entire artistic compositions

The bas-relief is a three-dimensional image that protrudes slightly above the plane. It is also called low relief. In everyday life, we replaced the word “bas-relief” with several synonyms: decorative modeling, stucco, three-dimensional panels Materials and techniques used for bas-relief To make bas-reliefs, a variety of materials are used: plaster, stone, marble, plaster, metal, clay, etc. Usually bas-relief images represent human figures, landscapes, objects and buildings, plants and entire artistic compositions. Michail Rybakov

If in the last century only nobles could afford to decorate a house with stucco, then in the modern world almost everyone can afford such decor. “Frescoes on the wall” Thanks to the bas-relief, there is another opportunity to visually adjust the space, making it more respectable and cozy. IN Lately Of all the variety of techniques and methods for decorating rooms, bas-relief began to undoubtedly occupy a leading position.

Recently, out of all the variety of techniques and methods for decorating premises, bas-relief has undoubtedly begun to occupy a leading position.

It is also called low relief. In everyday life, we replaced the word “bas-relief” with several synonyms: decorative modeling, stucco, three-dimensional panels Materials and techniques used for bas-relief To make bas-reliefs, a variety of materials are used: plaster, stone, marble, plaster, metal, clay, etc. Usually bas-relief images represent human figures, landscapes, objects and buildings, plants and entire artistic compositions. If in the last century only the nobility could afford to decorate a house with stucco, then in the modern world almost everyone can afford such decor. Frescoes on the wall Thanks to the bas-relief, there is another opportunity to visually adjust the space, making it more respectable and cozy. Recently, out of all the variety of techniques and methods for decorating premises, bas-relief has undoubtedly begun to occupy a leading position. Michail Rybakov

If in the last century only the nobility could afford to decorate a house with stucco, then in the modern world almost everyone can afford such decor. Frescoes on the wall Thanks to the bas-relief, there is another opportunity to visually adjust the space, making it more respectable and cozy

It is also called low relief. In everyday life, we replaced the word “bas-relief” with several synonyms: decorative modeling, stucco, three-dimensional panels Materials and techniques used for bas-relief To make bas-reliefs, a variety of materials are used: plaster, stone, marble, plaster, metal, clay, etc. Usually bas-relief images represent human figures, landscapes, objects and buildings, plants and entire artistic compositions. If in the last century only the nobility could afford to decorate a house with stucco, then in the modern world almost everyone can afford such decor. Frescoes on the wall Thanks to the bas-relief, there is another opportunity to visually adjust the space, making it more respectable and cozy. Michail Rybakov

A handmade, individual, designer bas-relief is made using putty, polyurethane glue “Glue Classification” and primer. Cast decorative elements are made from gypsum and polyurethane.

Bas-relief in a modern interior

In modern interiors, the popularity of bas-relief is explained by the ever-growing interest in the undeservedly forgotten classical interior, where bas-relief is an integral design element. But the technique of bas-relief compositions is so diverse that it makes it possible to organically fit it into almost any interior and any style.

But the technique of bas-relief compositions is so diverse that it makes it possible to organically fit it into almost any interior and any style.

If in the last century only the nobility could afford to decorate a house with stucco, then in the modern world almost everyone can afford such decor. Frescoes on the wall Thanks to the bas-relief, there is another opportunity to visually adjust the space, making it more respectable and cozy. A handmade, individual, designer bas-relief is made using putty, polyurethane glue. Classification of glue and primer. Cast decorative elements are made from gypsum and polyurethane. Bas-relief in a modern interior In a modern interior, the popularity of bas-relief is explained by the constantly growing interest in the undeservedly forgotten classical interior, where bas-relief is an integral element of design. But the technique of bas-relief compositions is so diverse that it makes it possible to organically fit it into almost any interior and any style. Michail Rybakov

The bas-relief allows you to develop the main theme of the interior that is inherent in the entire house, strengthen or set the desired direction in one of the rooms, and place clearer accents. In the living room, with the help of bas-relief you can achieve a solemn, ceremonial atmosphere, in the bedroom you can create a more intimate atmosphere, in the corridors you can create the illusion of movement and dynamics. All together it unites, changes the impression and creates the right mood.

Using bas-relief

Very often, bas-relief is used in the decoration of fireplaces. The bas-relief is harmoniously combined in forging, stone, wood and various natural materials. Niches with bas-relief and lighting “Walls with niches and shelves made of plasterboard” look very elegant. IN classic style filled with bas-relief arched openings and the space between the ceiling and doorways. In the kitchen, with the help of bas-relief, shelves are created - fakes with antique dishes or windows “to another world”. . It will fit perfectly in the bedroom, especially if the furniture includes forging, which is so fashionable now.

It will fit perfectly in the bedroom, especially if the furniture includes forging, which is so fashionable now.

Niches with bas-relief and lighting look very elegant. Walls with niches and shelves made of plasterboard. In the classical style, arched openings and the space between the ceiling and doorways are filled with bas-relief. In the kitchen, with the help of bas-relief, shelves are created - fakes with antique dishes or windows “to another world”. A modern plasma panel in the center of the bas-relief will organically fit into the decor of the century before last. It will fit perfectly in the bedroom, especially if the furniture includes forging, which is so fashionable now. Michail Rybakov

A modern plasma panel in the center of the bas-relief will organically fit into the decor of the century before last

Michail Rybakov

A modern plasma panel in the center of the bas-relief will organically fit into the decor of the century before last

Niches with bas-relief and lighting look very elegant. Walls with niches and shelves made of plasterboard. In the classical style, arched openings and the space between the ceiling and doorways are filled with bas-relief. In the kitchen, with the help of bas-relief, shelves are created - fakes with antique dishes or windows “to another world”. A modern plasma panel in the center of the bas-relief will organically fit into the decor of the century before last. Michail Rybakov

The bas-relief will help to hide flaws in the surface of the base wall, transform imperfections into elements of charm, and hide ugly utility lines behind exquisite decorative elements. “Putty walls” The relief panel is not limited to any specific framework. It can be of various sizes, from small paintings to a full-wall landscape, smoothly flowing into decorative plaster.

Scene selection

For a modern bas-relief, the choice of subject is simply limitless. City panorama, floral compositions, landscapes, abstraction, heraldic elements, everything that your design idea inspires you to do can be realized with the help of three-dimensional images.

City panorama, floral compositions, landscapes, abstraction, heraldic elements, everything that your design idea inspires you to do can be realized with the help of three-dimensional images.

In the kitchen, with the help of bas-relief, shelves are created - fakes with antique dishes or windows “to another world”. A modern plasma panel in the center of the bas-relief will organically fit into the decor of the century before last. The bas-relief will help to hide flaws in the surface of the base wall, turn imperfections into elements of charm, and hide ugly utility lines behind exquisite decorative elements Putty on walls The relief panel is not limited to any specific framework. . City panorama, floral compositions, landscapes, abstraction, heraldic elements, everything that your design idea inspires you to do can be realized with the help of three-dimensional images. Michail Rybakov

It can be of various sizes, from small paintings to a full-wall landscape, smoothly flowing into decorative plaster. Choice of subject For a modern bas-relief, the choice of subject is simply limitless

Michail Rybakov

It can be of various sizes, from small paintings to a full-wall landscape, smoothly flowing into decorative plaster. Choice of subject For a modern bas-relief, the choice of subject is simply limitless

In the kitchen, with the help of bas-relief, shelves are created - fakes with antique dishes or windows “to another world”. A modern plasma panel in the center of the bas-relief will organically fit into the decor of the century before last. The bas-relief will help to hide flaws in the surface of the base wall, turn imperfections into elements of charm, and hide ugly utility lines behind exquisite decorative elements Putty on walls The relief panel is not limited to any specific framework. It can be of various sizes, from small paintings to a full-wall landscape, smoothly flowing into decorative plaster. Choice of subject For a modern bas-relief, the choice of subject is simply limitless. Michail Rybakov

Symbols of abundance, still lifes with vegetables or fruits would be appropriate in the kitchen. For a children's room, a light and airy bas-relief with images of flowers, butterflies, magical birds and fairy-tale castles will help the child explore the world in beautiful colors. The bas-relief can be the central composition, or it can act as an ornament, depicting a climbing vine or small scattered fragments. The bas-relief can decorate as interior decoration the house, as well as its façade or outbuildings.

Plaster stucco

Gypsum, like centuries ago, remains one of the most popular building materials. It is fireproof, environmentally friendly, natural material perfect for creating bas-reliefs. It allows you to create stucco decoration of the most complex configuration. We cannot talk about imitation of ancient architecture. Modern masters recreate it in reality. . And covered with high quality acrylic paint, the bas-relief will be reliably protected from precipitation and ultraviolet rays.

And covered with high-quality acrylic paint, the bas-relief will be reliably protected from precipitation and ultraviolet rays.

It allows you to create stucco decoration of the most complex configuration. We cannot talk about imitation of ancient architecture. Modern masters recreate it in reality. And of course, the use of special primers, varnishes and glues based on polyurethane and silicone makes modern products more durable and durable. And covered with high-quality acrylic paint, the bas-relief will be reliably protected from precipitation and ultraviolet rays. Michail Rybakov

And of course, the use of special primers, varnishes and glues based on polyurethane and silicone makes modern products more durable and durable

Michail Rybakov

And of course, the use of special primers, varnishes and glues based on polyurethane and silicone makes modern products more durable and durable

It allows you to create stucco decoration of the most complex configuration. We cannot talk about imitation of ancient architecture. Modern masters recreate it in reality. And of course, the use of special primers, varnishes and glues based on polyurethane and silicone makes modern products more durable and durable. Michail Rybakov

And of course, the use of special primers, varnishes and glues based on polyurethane and silicone makes modern products more durable and durable

It allows you to create stucco decoration of the most complex configuration. We cannot talk about imitation of ancient architecture. Modern masters recreate it in reality. And of course, the use of special primers, varnishes and glues based on polyurethane and silicone makes modern products more durable and durable. Michail Rybakov

And of course, the use of special primers, varnishes and glues based on polyurethane and silicone makes modern products more durable and durable

It allows you to create stucco decoration of the most complex configuration. We cannot talk about imitation of ancient architecture. Modern masters recreate it in reality. And of course, the use of special primers, varnishes and glues based on polyurethane and silicone makes modern products more durable and durable. Michail Rybakov

And of course, the use of special primers, varnishes and glues based on polyurethane and silicone makes modern products more durable and durable

It allows you to create stucco decoration of the most complex configuration. We cannot talk about imitation of ancient architecture. Modern masters recreate it in reality. And of course, the use of special primers, varnishes and glues based on polyurethane and silicone makes modern products more durable and durable. Michail Rybakov

And of course, the use of special primers, varnishes and glues based on polyurethane and silicone makes modern products more durable and durable

It allows you to create stucco decoration of the most complex configuration. We cannot talk about imitation of ancient architecture. Modern masters recreate it in reality. And of course, the use of special primers, varnishes and glues based on polyurethane and silicone makes modern products more durable and durable. Michail Rybakov

And of course, the use of special primers, varnishes and glues based on polyurethane and silicone makes modern products more durable and durable

It allows you to create stucco decoration of the most complex configuration. We cannot talk about imitation of ancient architecture. Modern masters recreate it in reality. And of course, the use of special primers, varnishes and glues based on polyurethane and silicone makes modern products more durable and durable. Michail Rybakov

And of course, the use of special primers, varnishes and glues based on polyurethane and silicone makes modern products more durable and durable

It allows you to create stucco decoration of the most complex configuration. We cannot talk about imitation of ancient architecture. Modern masters recreate it in reality. And of course, the use of special primers, varnishes and glues based on polyurethane and silicone makes modern products more durable and durable. Michail Rybakov

And of course, the use of special primers, varnishes and glues based on polyurethane and silicone makes modern products more durable and durable

It allows you to create stucco decoration of the most complex configuration. We cannot talk about imitation of ancient architecture. Modern masters recreate it in reality. And of course, the use of special primers, varnishes and glues based on polyurethane and silicone makes modern products more durable and durable. Michail Rybakov

A gypsum bas-relief can be given the appearance of bronze, wood, cast iron, or artificially aged. Using ordinary drying oil you can achieve a believable imitation of antique marble; using shellac varnish will resemble terracotta, oil paints or a mixture copper sulfate and distilled water will recreate antique bronze. “Painting walls with water-based paint” Before painting, the gypsum bas-relief must dry well. It is thoroughly cleaned of dust and primed. Mainly used water-based paints for the ceiling, painting is done with oil paints.

Polyurethane stucco

Just a few years ago on domestic market stucco molding made of polyurethane appeared, and immediately turned out to be incredibly in demand. Elements of palace decor became available for decoration of residential premises and building facades. Although polyurethane was invented in Russia back in the thirties of the last century, it was first used in Europe. . It is indispensable in the interior of the kitchen and bathroom.

It is indispensable in the interior of the kitchen and bathroom.

Polyurethane stucco Just a few years ago, polyurethane stucco appeared on the domestic market, and immediately found itself in incredible demand. Elements of palace decor became available for decoration of residential premises and building facades. Although polyurethane was invented in Russia back in the thirties of the last century, it was first used in Europe. Plastic foamed using a special technology is absolutely environmentally friendly, does not absorb moisture and unpleasant odors, resistant to temperature changes. It is indispensable in the interior of the kitchen and bathroom. Michail Rybakov

Plastic foamed using a special technology is absolutely environmentally friendly, does not absorb moisture and unpleasant odors, and is resistant to temperature changes.

Michail Rybakov

Plastic foamed using a special technology is absolutely environmentally friendly, does not absorb moisture and unpleasant odors, and is resistant to temperature changes.

Polyurethane stucco Just a few years ago, polyurethane stucco appeared on the domestic market, and immediately found itself in incredible demand. Elements of palace decor became available for decoration of residential premises and building facades. Although polyurethane was invented in Russia back in the thirties of the last century, it was first used in Europe. Plastic foamed using a special technology is absolutely environmentally friendly, does not absorb moisture and unpleasant odors, and is resistant to temperature changes. Michail Rybakov

Decorative stucco molding made of polyurethane will help to visually adjust the proportions of the room. Located in vertical plane moldings and pilasters will make the ceiling visually higher; if placed horizontally, they will expand the room. Most often, molding is used as a separator between wallpaper of two tones. Polyurethane molding is good for decoration interior doors, performing not only the function of decoration, but also of platbands. To facilitate installation, a special adhesive for polyurethane has been developed, which really makes decorating work much easier and ensures reliable fastening. "Glue for stone" If you do not have sufficient artistic skills that are necessary in creating a bas-relief from plaster and putty materials, then polyurethane stucco is just for you. With its help, you can not only decorate the interior without any problems, but also update old furniture, create, using polyurethane frames and panels, shelves and panels for fireplaces, pedestals and baseboards, a unique, timeless, cozy interior.

With its help, you can not only decorate the interior without any problems, but also update old furniture, create a unique, timeless, cozy interior using polyurethane frames and panels, shelves and panels for fireplaces, pedestals and baseboards.

Moldings and pilasters located in a vertical plane will make the ceiling visually higher; if positioned horizontally, they will expand the room. Most often, molding is used as a separator between wallpaper of two tones. Polyurethane stucco molding is good for decorating interior doors, performing not only the function of decoration, but also platbands. To facilitate installation, a special adhesive for polyurethane has been developed, which really greatly facilitates the work of decorating and ensures reliable fastening. Glue for stone If you do not have sufficient artistic skills that are necessary in creating a bas-relief from plaster and putty materials, then stucco molding from polyurethane is just for you you. With its help, you can not only decorate the interior without any problems, but also update old furniture, create a unique, timeless, cozy interior using polyurethane frames and panels, shelves and panels for fireplaces, pedestals and baseboards. Michail Rybakov

To facilitate installation, a special adhesive for polyurethane has been developed, which really greatly facilitates the work of decorating and ensures reliable fastening. Glue for stone If you do not have sufficient artistic skills that are necessary in creating a bas-relief from plaster and putty materials, then stucco molding from polyurethane is just for you you

Moldings and pilasters located in a vertical plane will make the ceiling visually higher; if positioned horizontally, they will expand the room. Most often, molding is used as a separator between wallpaper of two tones. Polyurethane stucco molding is good for decorating interior doors, performing not only the function of decoration, but also platbands. To facilitate installation, a special adhesive for polyurethane has been developed, which really greatly facilitates the work of decorating and ensures reliable fastening. Glue for stone If you do not have sufficient artistic skills that are necessary in creating a bas-relief from plaster and putty materials, then stucco molding from polyurethane is just for you you. And again about the floral bas-relief. 3 MK

Bas-relief, as a technique for producing three-dimensional images on the wall, has recently begun to gain popularity; to perform this technique, both professional artists are hired to decorate their homes, and lirushniks make interesting relief panels with their own hands. After all, even the simplest plaster stucco gives the room an elegant and solemn look. If the image protrudes more than half, then it is called high relief, and if less, then it is bas-relief.

I don’t know about your taste, but in my opinion, the more natural, the less smooth and asymmetrical the wall bas-relief is, the more aesthetically and elegantly it will fit into your interior. And unpainted bas-reliefs look much more impressive due to the play of shadows than painted ones, even if they are covered with gilding!

The inspiring factor when making your own bas-relief is that your design will be unique, even if a stencil is used, because you are not yet a professional craftsman and do not have a recognizable style!
You can make a bas-relief yourself different ways: fashion along the outline of the sketch:

or vice versa "plaster" according to the template.

The painted reliefs look somehow unnatural....



More elegant in monochrome:

How to make a bas-relief using a stencil

To make a bas-relief using a stencil, without having any skills or experience in such work, you need to study all the subtleties and features of its use.
To begin with, you can practice on a small plasterboard board, and then start finishing the walls.

The stencil can be purchased at any hardware store by choosing the picture you like. You can also make it to order in a workshop or make it yourself, but first you need to decide on the pattern - the image should be moderately complex, but not primitive.

The stencil is used for application on flat surface the walls of an additional layer, which will serve as a protruding pattern. You can draw the pattern for the stencil yourself or find a suitable design on the Internet and print it. If the selected pattern turns out to be too large, it can be glued together in parts with tape.

You should choose the most durable material for making a stencil. Plastic is best. In order to transfer the selected pattern to plastic, you need to use carbon paper. If the plastic is transparent, then the drawing can be placed under it and then traced along the contour. To prevent the drawing from moving during transfer, it should be attached with tape. The stencil is cut out so that there are no burrs or cuts left on it, as the pattern may be damaged. Cut lines should be clear and even.

Preparatory work with the wall

Before starting work, markings should be made on the wall. This is necessary so that the pattern can be evenly applied to the surface. The stencil for bas-reliefs is used only once, so you should prepare several templates with the pattern at once.
To secure the template to the wall, you can use various adhesives that should be attached to the back of the stencil. This could be masking tape or glue, which is very convenient to use in such work. After the glue is applied to the template, it is applied to the wall and held until it is firmly fixed.
Priming the surface is not a mandatory process, but it will not be superfluous either. When working with putty, it is always recommended to use a primer, so it should be used to cover the area of ​​the wall to which the bas-relief will be attached. After covering with primer, the wall should dry well.

Applying a bas-relief

To apply a three-dimensional pattern, it is recommended to use fine-grained putty. It looks like a viscous paste and is perfect for this type of work. You can buy ready-made putty or dilute the dry mixture yourself with water to the desired consistency. The putty is applied to the stencil, covering it completely. Each layer of such a solution must be well compacted.

Removing the template from the bas-relief should only be done when the plaster is completely dry and hardened. To remove the stencil from the wall, you need to smoothly pull it towards you and gradually slowly separate it.

If the pattern is not even enough, then after complete drying its edges can be sanded sandpaper. This process is shown more clearly in the MK video (but in my opinion, Yulia Bykovskaya’s plant contours look very symmetrical and unnatural)

;

MODELING THE RELIEF ACCORDING THE CONTOUR:

The essence of the process comes down to adding volume to the drawn leaves or flowers. A volumetric composition on the wall is created in several stages. The putty is not applied to certain areas of the drawing immediately, but gradually, layer by layer.

Modeling technique plaster bas-reliefs was described in detail in the post HERE:

Below is a short lesson with tips.

From among the pre-selected images, you need to take the most clearly drawn option. The outline of a leaf or flower must be transferred to paper. Then a transparent film is applied on top. And the image is transferred onto it from above.

The outline can be traced with a pencil or gel pen so that it does not get erased.

Master class from the FrescorelieF studio of Alexey Tishchenko on how to make a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands. Photo and text by the Author.

Any idea finds its beginning in a pencil sketch. Our Flower was no exception.

Based on this diagram, we drew a sketch to scale, where all proportions were preserved.
The tracing paper with the sketch was attached to masking tape on the wall prepared for this. And the preparation is that it must be leveled and plastered.

The translation of the drawing is done by tracing it using carbon paper.

For further work we needed: about 2.5 kg of well-mixed sculptural clay (it should be soft, but not stick to your fingers), stacks, a knife, a core brush, a bristle brush, a rolling pin, two containers - one for water, the other - for slip. We also need to prepare a slip onto which we will glue the relief fragments. A slip is nothing more than the same clay brought to the consistency of liquid sour cream. We use ordinary water as a thinner. You can add PVA glue there (about a third, but this is not strict). The clay itself must be wrapped in a damp cloth and placed in plastic bag so that it does not dry out.

In our case, we started sculpting from the top left edge. Although, in fact, we should have started from the central part, where the most massive and multi-layered fragments would be. All this in order to optimize the drying process. After all, it is better to apply the next layer on top of the dried one. But we had time to stretch out the pleasure.

It is necessary to separate from a whole piece of clay exactly as much as is required to form a fragment. Try to immediately hide any excess pieces in a bag. Do not make the elements too bulky so that when you transfer them to the wall they will not fall apart.

All molded elements can be divided into 3 main types: flagella or sausages, layers and balls. Everything else is a derivative of them. Therefore, before sculpting a fragment, determine for yourself what kind of look it will be. The layers are rolled out with a rolling pin, and everything else is done by hand. Coat the area where you intend to glue the fragment with slip and use a bristle brush. Only when the fragment has stuck well enough, smooth it around the entire perimeter without leaving any gaps.


Using your fingers, sticks or even a rolling pin, give the mass the desired shape and work out the details. If necessary, smooth the relief with a core brush dipped in water.

Match the next fragment with the previous one so that the joints are not visible. Do not leave the area unsmoothed for a long time, the clay dries and then the untreated part will have to be cut and sanded.

Step by step - and the relief is molded.

Leave it to dry naturally for one week. At high humidity and at lower temperatures the process slows down. Accordingly, you can speed it up by increasing the temperature and decreasing the humidity.

When the work is dry, sand it with fine sandpaper. Before painting, prime it with a solution of PVA glue and water (50%). Wait until completely dry. Then you can tint it in any color. In our case, we used a spray gun, because the brush leaves marks. If desired, again after complete drying, go over all surfaces with acrylic varnish (glossy or matte).

For more information about 4 methods of plaster modeling, see the post

And finally, an elementary method of making a flower wall using decorative plaster: