Indoor geranium: care at home. Geranium: home care for beginners and pruning rules

Geranium - wonderful indoor plant, which has a lot of advantages and possesses not only luxurious and colorful flowers, but also a lot of healing properties and qualities.

She might be like garden plant, and as an indoor flower decorating the windowsill and home interior.

Geranium has a lot of varieties and a sufficient number of varieties so that any gardener, or even just a lover and connoisseur of beauty, can create the desired flower arrangement for themselves.

Geranium will find a worthy place for itself on the windowsill among other flowers and will protect them from the possible invasion of indoor flower pests - which literally cannot stand this plant and are afraid of it.

Features of growing geraniums

Geranium is unpretentious and does not require its owner to have any special conditions for growing and caring for it. But still, there are some features and rules for breeding and maintaining this plant.

For good flowering of geraniums, proper watering, acceptable lighting and warmth are necessary. In winter, geraniums can be kept indoors, and closer to summer they can be planted in open ground in a garden or vegetable garden.

This flower can be grown both from seeds and by cuttings. The plant easily perceives the bright rays of the sun, so in hot weather it can only be darkened a little.

Collateral successful cultivation Geraniums require proper soil drainage, as well as the selection of medium-moist and slightly acidic saturated soil.

It is also necessary to feed and fertilize geraniums, especially if they grow in pots.

Geraniums need to be watered, but moderately, and during the growth period, weed the soil of the plant to remove weeds.

Geraniums need to be pruned on time and correctly, otherwise they may die, especially in winter.

Geranium: home care - propagation

Geranium propagation can be carried out in two ways - cuttings and reproduction of seed planting material.

Cuttings- the most popular and uncomplicated method of propagating geraniums, which has been used by flower growers since ancient times. There are practically no failures here.

1st method of cuttings.

Cuttings are cut from mother plant at the end of the summer season, or at the beginning of autumn. The cutting is removed from the very top of the plant, leaving at least 4 leaves on the cutting. After this procedure, the cutting can be placed in a container with water and wait for the roots to form. After the root system has appeared, the plant must be planted in a pot with soil prepared in advance for this purpose.

2nd method of cuttings.

The cuttings, as described above, are cut from the plant and then placed in the shade until they wither. Then the cutting is dipped in a stimulant called “Kornevin” or juice taken from aloe, then in charcoal powder, and at the end of the whole process it is planted in a prepared pot.

At the same time, it is important for cuttings to properly prepare the soil - garden soil or greenhouse soil mixed with sand in a 1/1 ratio.

Therefore, in both cases you need to show a little care and attention and your pet will delight you with luxurious, abundant flowering and radiant health.

Seed propagation method- This is not such a popular method of reproducing planting material as, for example, geranium cuttings. But for breeding new varieties of geranium, this method is the most acceptable method, especially if a gardener or just an amateur wants to experiment and from a certain variety of seeds obtain seedlings that are different from the source material - in color, shape and size.

In general, in order to avoid any failures associated with growing geranium from seed planting material, it is necessary to start planting geranium seeds and experimenting with inexpensive varieties of this plant.

The soil for planting geranium seeds should be well loosened and, in addition to the main soil, consist of sand and humus. At the beginning of the spring period, you can start sowing.

Before you start planting seeds, the soil under the geranium must be thoroughly watered with a solution of manganese (to protect the plant from diseases such as blackleg). Afterwards, the seeds need to be poured into the ground in some container and lightly sprinkled with a layer of soil, but so that they are not visually visible on the surface.

Then, for the planted seeds, it is advisable to create some kind of greenhouse in the form of a film, with which they will be covered, and then remove the planted material to an insulated place.

Geranium: home care - soil, lighting, conditions for flowering

The soil

The soil for geraniums should be rich and nutritious, but not light. It is advisable to add a little clay base and sand to the soil.

To mix the components yourself, you need to take part of the humus (leaf or turf), the same amount of peat, sand and the same amount of clay soil from the river bank.

Such soil retains moisture quite well, and therefore the soil does not lend itself to acidification. In addition, it is recommended to regularly loosen the soil under the geranium for better health of the flower.

Lighting

In the summer, when the daylight hours are long and saturated with rays of the sun, geraniums located on the windowsill feel great on any side of the room.

However, the best location for geranium is still considered to be the south side, near a window, on some kind of flower stand, because this particular plant is most directly related to light-loving flower specimens, to which, even on hot days, direct rays of the sun cannot bring any benefits. or harm.

But, despite all of the above, on hot days you need to protect geraniums from sunlight using papyrus paper to avoid the appearance of burn spots on the plant.

The room where geranium grows needs to be ventilated, but without creating drafts. And in order for geranium to grow strong, smell fragrant and delight the eye with its luxurious and bright flowers, it must be protected from being kept in the shade and taken out into the fresh air as often as possible. sunlight.

Conditions for flowering

In order for geranium to delight its household with the beauty of its flowers all year round, it is necessary to create favorable conditions and proper care.

The abundance of flowers in the summer will directly depend on how the plant spent its winter.

Geraniums simply need to spend the winter somewhere in cool places, as far as possible from fireplaces and heaters, at a temperature no higher than 13 degrees. At this time, the plant absolutely does not need fertilizing and abundant watering.

If you follow all the wintering rules, not only will the plant not get sick with any diseases, but from spring until late autumn it will delight everyone with the abundance of its flowers and their beauty.

You also need to remember and know the fact that geranium really needs to break off faded inflorescences. And if everything is done correctly, this plant will extend the flowering period from May until October.

Trimming

For this process, you must use a knife with a sharp and long blade. They need to cut off the wilted and yellowed leaves so that the petiole remains on the geranium. You need to start pruning geraniums, leaving shoots with several nodes in the fall. All cut areas must be lubricated with pre-ground activated carbon.

But when pruning geraniums, you need to take into account the fact that after such a painful operation for the plant, it will not bloom soon. So you need to be patient and continue caring for your favorite plant.

Geranium: home care - feeding and watering

Watering

The main requirement that must be observed when caring for geraniums is regular watering. You don’t have to take special care about air humidity or spraying the plant; this geranium doesn’t need it. It will even be better if spraying is carried out only on neighboring flowers and plants; in this case, you can easily avoid such a nuisance as water getting on the geranium leaves.

But there is also no need to overwater the geranium, as this can cause mold to appear and lead to rotting of the root system, especially in winter.

It is necessary to realize that with a constant lack of water, the flowering of the plant will be weak, and the flowers will be crushed.

So, a prerequisite for proper care of geraniums is drainage at the bottom of the flower pot and moderately moist soil.

Top dressing

Geranium will feel great and bloom constantly if you apply fertilizing in the form of fertilizer once every 30 days in autumn and winter and twice a month in summer and spring.

Phosphorus feeding promotes abundant and long flowering of geraniums. Before you start fertilizing the flower, you need to water it thoroughly so that the fertilizing does not burn the root system of the geranium.

It is also useful to apply fertilizers that have nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus components in equal proportions.

And also the composition of these fertilizers must necessarily include various microelements necessary for the good functioning of the flower.

Geranium: care at home - why does it die?

Proper care for geranium guarantees her life without diseases and life problems. However, troubles in the form of diseases of leaves, flowers and root systems may still arise, and you need to be prepared for such a turn of events.

The main reasons for the death of geraniums are lack of sunlight, excessive air humidity, excessive watering and, as a result, the appearance of fungal diseases, such as:

Gray rot – formed on the leaves of a plant in the form of a cobweb or coating, appearing as a dark substrate on the stem.

Leaf rust– appearing in the form of damage to the leaf plate with yellow spots of small dimensions.

Powdery mildew – enveloping the stems and leaves of geranium with a powdery coating.

Another dangerous phenomenon that can destroy the root system of geraniums is nematode damage, which manifests itself in the form of nodes on the roots of the plant.

Geranium can also be attacked by such pests, leading to possible death of the plant, such as:

Aphids, due to which geranium leaves wither and small spots appear on them. From below, on the leaf plate, gray-green insects appear, which quickly multiply and draw out all the juices from the geranium leaves.

The whitefly is also very dangerous pest, which feeds on the juices of the plant and gradually, if no action is taken, leads to the death of the plant.

These and other pests can be destroyed by spraying the plant by special means, harmless to the geranium itself.

A few decades ago, geranium was extremely popular. Pelargonium, also called geranium, could be found both in the collections of aristocrats and on the windowsills of ordinary people. However, over time, humanity has lost interest in this wonderful plant.

Today we can safely say that geranium is again regaining its former success and is in demand. This is not surprising, because this flower can boast of a lot of advantages. Geranium can be considered in two variations: as a houseplant and as garden flower. A large number of varieties and varieties of plants can satisfy the needs of any sophisticated gardener. At any flower arrangement geranium successfully takes its rightful place.

Pelargonium has great potential in medicine and has healing properties. Note that this plant terrifies many indoor pests. If you place the flower on the windowsill with other flowers, you are guaranteed protection from aphids.

Even an inexperienced and novice gardener can care for geraniums, since this flower is completely unpretentious and does not require special treatment. The likelihood that geranium will not take root at home is extremely low, almost zero.

Temperature

Regular room temperature is considered optimal for the flower. In the cold season, the most acceptable temperature for a flower is from +10 to +15 degrees, so it is better to place the plant on a windowsill or in one of the coolest rooms.

As for lighting, the principle is this: the more light, the better. You can even allow some direct sunlight. As a result of the lack of light, the flower will have small leaves and will not please you with abundance of flowering.

Air humidity

Geranium does not need humid air at all. You should also not spray the flower - it will even harm the plant. If the geranium is standing, for example, on a windowsill, next to other flowers, try to avoid getting water on its leaves when spraying.

Watering

The flower must be watered regularly and abundantly. Remember: geranium does not tolerate water stagnating in a flowerpot or pot, so you just need to keep the soil moist and ensure good drainage.

Feeding and fertilizers

It is very important to know that geranium does not tolerate fresh organic fertilizers! In principle, a flower requires standard feeding during periods of flowering and growth. You can use fertilizer for flowering plants about twice a month.

Transfer

At home, geranium practically does not need replanting. An exception may be some cases if, for example, the roots of the plant have grown, and there is not enough space in the pot, or the plant has been carelessly flooded with water.

Whether planting or replanting, remember that the flower does not accept spacious pots, but good drainage will be very helpful. The plant is quite suitable for replanting with ordinary garden soil or a universal soil mixture. Especially comfortable conditions The following recipe is considered for the plant:

• 8 parts turf soil
• 2 parts humus
• 1 part sand

Geranium reproduces one of the most simple ways- cuttings. This method virtually eliminates failure. There is a second method of propagation - by seeds, which will give you a more compact plant with abundant flowering. However, propagation by seeds is a much more troublesome process.

Geraniums are propagated by seeds only experienced flower growers. When propagating by cuttings, usually in late summer or early autumn, cuttings are taken from the mother plant. The cutting should be taken from the top of the shoot and it should have about 4-5 leaves. After which it can be placed in any container with water and wait until the roots appear. Next, you can plant the cuttings in a pot of soil.

Problems and diseases

Quite often, geranium leaves turn yellow. Many novice flower growers confuse this with a disease, accepting with horror this fact. But there is no need to worry - this is a common occurrence for geraniums. Thus, the flower sheds unnecessary old leaves. Almost always, the leaves turn yellow and die if the hernai is moved from the street to the room. It’s another matter if the plant is affected by rust. This is where you should panic and immediately start treating the flower.

In general, if the plant is not over-watered, then there will be no problems with geranium, but in return it will delight you with its beautiful flowers for a long time.

How to grow indoor geranium (video)

Beauty, long flowering, medicinal properties, easy care - this is all a description of the properties of one plant. Without a doubt, every lover of home flowers will want to see this combination on their windowsill. Pelargonium is so beloved by flower growers that it is difficult to imagine a home “flowerbed” without it.

Pelargonium is a herbaceous perennial from the geranium family. This flower is often called geranium, but geranium is a frost-resistant plant that is grown in the garden, pelargonium is a houseplant.

The history of this flower began with South Africa. It was from there that the plant was brought to Holland, and then to France and England. Very quickly, because of its beauty and ease of care, pelargonium became popular among gardeners. The name literally translates as “stork’s beak”, because the fruits of the plant are similar to the beak of this bird.

The aroma of pelargonium is considered antibacterial and soothing, and people believe that this flower brings mutual understanding to the family.

Caring for pelargonium at home

When purchasing pelargonium, you should pay attention to the condition of the bush and inflorescences. Even if the plant is free of diseases and pests, it needs to be quarantined at home. Pelargonium is not whimsical plant, but there are still some care features, which, if observed, will result in juicy and long-lasting flowering.

Do I need to replant pelargonium after purchase?

Since stores usually sell flowers in disposable containers and with unsuitable soil, it makes sense to replant the plant, but only if the pelargonium does not bloom. For planting, you should use a mixture of sand, turf and leaf soil, humus (1: 2: 2: 2).

If you don’t want to bother with preparing the soil, you can use a regular flower nutrient mixture, which is sold in stores. Subsequently, pelargonium should be replanted once a year in autumn or spring. If the pot becomes small, then it is changed. But it is important to know that pelargonium from a larger pot will go green and will not produce flowers.

Lighting for pelargoniums

For abundant flowering Pelargonium needs good lighting. Because in the shade it grows and does not throw out buds, or does not bloom for long. To provide the plant required amount light, choose sunny window sills, especially do not place the flower on the table in dark room. If you still want to decorate the interior, place the beauty next to the south window.

Content temperature

Almost all pelargoniums should undergo winter dormancy. The optimal temperature for this is 10°C. If during this period you do not adhere to temperature regime, then you can’t wait for the buds. During wintering, if brown edges of the leaves are found, this is a signal that the temperature is low. The pot should be moved away from the glass.

Pelargonium should not be overheated; if the summer sun hits it at lunchtime, the plant should be shaded. For healthy growth, the optimal temperature is from 18C to 25C. Outdoors, pelargonium tolerates sunny weather well.

Watering and air humidity

In summer, regular and abundant watering is needed, but it is important to ensure that the water does not stagnate. When planting, you need to pay attention to good drainage. These could be sea pebbles or broken brick. Expanded clay will also do an excellent job with this role. Pots must have drainage holes to allow excess water to drain away.

The signal for watering will be dry soil. In hot summers, water twice, early in the morning and in the evening. In winter, watering is reduced to once a week or even twice. You cannot moisten or spray the leaves, as this will damage the plant. Water the pelargonium at the root, being careful not to get it on the leaves. To ensure good aeration of the root system and prevent rotting, the soil should be loosened periodically. If watering pelargonium is incorrect, it will let you know about it with brown circles on the leaves.

Top dressing

Pelargonium needs constant feeding. The exception is winter, that is, a period of rest. In spring and summer, fertilizer should be applied once every two weeks.

Pelargonium is fed with minerals. For the healthy development of a plant, 3 components are needed - potassium, magnesium, nitrogen. There are ready-made complexes with additional additives on sale. If fertilizers are made independently, then the same parts of minerals are taken, but before flowering the nitrogen composition is reduced and the potassium content is increased.

To increase the number of buds, flower growers add iodine. To do this, you need to take 1 drop of iodine per 1 liter warm water. There is 50 ml of solution per bush. Water along the wall of the pot to avoid burns.

Fertilizers are a very important component in caring for pelargonium, but it is important not to overfeed the plant. If the leaves begin to turn yellow, the dose should be adjusted.

Growing pelargonium from seeds

• Considering that the seeds are quite large, it is best to plant one seed at a time in separate cups.
• Planting depth is 0.5-1 cm.
• Some gardeners still prefer to save space on the windowsill at first by planting pelargonium seeds in boxes or large containers in order to later plant the seedlings into separate containers. in this case the distance is at least 2 cm.
• The soil can be used universally for potted plants.
• Experienced gardeners recommend soaking the seeds in a growth stimulator for a couple of hours before planting. This will give an additional incentive: they will sprout faster, the seedlings will be more powerful.
• Seedlings are germinated at room temperature, in a well-lit room.

The sprouts should be cared for by periodically watering and monitoring the temperature at 20-25°C. When two or three true leaves appear, the pelargonium should be planted. It is believed that when propagated by seeds, pelargonium will bloom more abundantly; it will be able to produce up to 30 buds.

Seedlings are planted in a permanent pot when the plants have grown well, up to 10-12 cm in height.

Propagation of pelargonium by cuttings

Propagation by cuttings should begin in March.

• Cuttings with 2-3 internodes, approximately 5-7 cm long, are cut from the donor plant.
• You can soak the cut of the cutting in crushed charcoal, this will protect it from rotting.
• It is advisable to disinfect the soil to avoid the spread of fungal spores, especially if you take soil from the garden.
• After this, you should moisten the substrate and stick the cuttings into it.
• Cover with a jar on top, you can use plastic bottle, pre-cut in half.
• To avoid rotting, you should not overheat them, the temperature should be up to 22-23°C.
• We moisten the soil moderately and periodically.
• It takes about 1.5-3 weeks for good rooting.
• You can also place the cuttings in water, and when they sprout roots, transplant them into soil.

Both methods of germinating pelargonium cuttings are widely used; the first is convenient in that the plants immediately take root, which gives a certain advantage. The second method can be called “lazy”: the plants do not need to be watered for a long time; it is enough to simply change the water every few days.

However, when planting cuttings with formed roots in the ground, the plants do not experience any particular discomfort and are quickly accepted.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

Overgrown bushes can be divided without damage and several plants can be obtained. In turn, dividing the bush is a rejuvenating procedure that can be carried out in conjunction with pruning.

• To divide the bush, water it well.
• After an hour, carefully remove the lump of earth from the pot.
• Inspect the root and carefully separate it into parts with a knife to preserve several growth points for each new bush.
• Trim long branches, shortening them to a height of 5-10 cm.
• Plant in nutritious soil, maintaining the same level of the root collar, and water abundantly.
• At first the bushes will wilt and shed their leaves, don’t worry, this is normal. After 7-10 days, when turgor (leaf tone) is restored, feed the pelargonium to further stimulate the growth of green mass.
• After 3-4 months the plants will be able to bloom.

Pelargonium pruning and rejuvenating bush transplantation

Pruning pelargonium photo How to prune pelargonium

All pelargoniums grow in height very quickly. And over time, the stems “go bald”. Therefore, the flower needs constant pruning. Without this he will lose his decorative properties, may stop throwing out buds. Pruning is also used to rejuvenate the bush. The right time for this is autumn.

Not only the top is cut off, but also the edges of the earthen clod along with the roots. In the spring, during transplantation, it is also advisable to prune pelargonium.

But it should be noted that pruning delays flowering by 3-4 months. In order to form a low and fluffy bush with large inflorescences, you need to cut it short, leaving small stumps, about 5 cm. Cut a suitable branch just above the internode. The cut should be oblique. It is also important to ensure that after pruning there are buds that do not grow deep into the bush. To form a dense crown, pelargonium is pinched.

Possible problems in care

• Yellowing of leaf blades. Most likely, this is due to root rot; in this case, replanting the plant in another soil will help.
• Yellowing of fox edges. Guilty improper care: heat air, insufficient watering, lack of air due to soil compaction. Perhaps the plant does not have enough fertilizer, so it needs fertilizing.
• Stem rot, leaf wilting. It is necessary to remove damaged stems and reduce watering.
• Pelargonium does not bloom. If this happens, then most likely the reason is stagnation of water - reduce watering and make sure that the water does not stagnate, there is not enough light - move the plant to the south side, but make sure that the air temperature does not rise above 25C.
• Stunted growth, limp leaves. If these signs are present, then first you should check the soil for acidity, it should not exceed 5.5 pH, it can also be caused by a lack of nitrogen.
• If the pot becomes small, the plant may stop growing.

Pelargonium diseases

Diseases of pelargonium photo and description In the photo: oedema

Oedema, edema. It manifests itself in the formation of tubercles and growths on the leaves. The disease is caused by excessive waterlogging of the soil. The solution is to reduce watering and cut off all diseased leaves.

Verticillium wilt of pelargonium photo What to do

Verticillium wilt. A very dangerous disease, almost fatal for pelargoniums. The solution is to destroy diseased plants and all shoots with signs of disease. Treatment of plants with the biofungidide trichodermin, 2 g of the drug for each bush. Foundationazole 50 SP 0.1% and Topsin M 70 SP 0.1% performed well.

Gray rot. It appears as brown spots along the entire base of the plant. Leaves also respond to the disease by yellowing and wilting. A gray fungus appears in the foci of the disease.
Gray rot in pelargonium occurs from excess moisture. A large amount of nitrogen in fertilizing can also cause this phenomenon.

To combat gray rot, I prune the affected parts of the plant. The flower is transplanted into new soil and pot. Pelargonium is treated with systemic fungicides.

Stem and root rot . With this disease, the root collar becomes black and begins to rot. The leaves lose their rich color, turn pale, and over time, even turn yellow and wither. The disease appears due to increased moisture and low acidity of the soil. To combat rot, plants are treated with drugs such as Fitolavin, Biporam.

Stem and root late blight. When pelargonium is infected by the late blight fungus, it withers and rots very quickly. In most cases, the spore is soilborne, but can be carried by drafts from one plant to another. The impetus for the development of the disease is high humidity. The disease begins from the roots, covering them with spots of rot.

At this time, the growth of the plant slows down and the color of the leaves turns pale, the signs of the disease become similar to a lack of moisture. But when watering increases, the fungus gains momentum, multiplying and affecting all branches very quickly. Late blight is also characterized by white fluff in the area of ​​rot. Late blight is treated with early stages. For treatment, the flower is processed Bordeaux mixture, the affected parts are removed, and charcoal is poured onto the cut. Be sure to replant the plant in sterile soil and pot.

Types of pelargonium with photos and descriptions

To all the advantages of pelargonium, you can also add a variety of species, of which there are more than 250 in nature. The entire genus of pelargonium is divided into 7 groups.

Zonal pelargoniums

The largest group in terms of number of varieties. Includes thousands of varieties. The leaves have a small soft fluff and wavy edges of the plate, densely distributed throughout the base of the stem. If you rub a leaf of zonal pelargonium, a specific sharp effect will appear. The stems of the flower are straight.

Flowers, collected in large and bright brushes, depending on the variety, can be:

• simple (variety Blanca with snow-white flowers, variety Yitka with delicate salmon-pink flowers) - up to 5 petals
• semi-double (variety A.M. Mayne with beet-fuchsia flowers) - up to 8 petals
• terry (variety Ada Suterby with pink flowers) - more than 8 petals

The shape of the bud may also differ:

• tulips (variety Carmen Andrea - bright red, almost burgundy petals, slightly wavy edges, variety Emma fran Bengtsbo - noble elongated buds with milky white petals) - buds look like a tulip, do not open completely.
• cactus - petals are twisted.
• star-shaped (Borthwood Stellar variety with intense pink flowers, Aunty Pam-Stellar variety - neon pink petals) - inflorescences look like stars.
• rosebuds (Apple Blossom Rosebud variety - the most luxurious variety of zonal pelargoniums with white buds and pink edging) - inflorescences like roses.

According to the color of the petals, zonal pelargoniums can be:

• two-color
• tricolor
• speckled (variety Confetti Red - bright orange petals with specks and red strokes)
• bird's egg color

Zonal pelargoniums vary in size:

• microminiature – 10cm
• miniature – 10-13cm
• dwarf (variety Pac Jana-2 - dark pink flower with a white spot, variety Frou Frou with bright pink flowers) - 13-20cm
• normal – 25-60cm
• airines – up to 80cm

Royal pelargoniums description and care conditions

This is a gorgeous group that is distinguished by its large, bright flowers. In some varieties, the bud reaches 8 cm. But in order to achieve flowering, you need to make a lot of effort and create certain conditions in order for royal pelargonium threw away the buds. The most important period for them is winter.

• At this time, it is necessary to observe 2 modes, temperature and watering mode.
• Watering in winter should be minimal, frequent watering will lead to rapid growth without further flowering, the optimal amount of watering is 2 times a month.

Temperature for wintering – maximum +15C, but preferably below, +8C is the ideal environment for planting buds. There are exceptions for which a warmer wintering, at +20-+25C, is possible - these are the Imperial and Sally Munro varieties. The flowering of this group of pelargoniums is short-lived, until summer.

The most popular varieties are Askham Fringed Aztec, Burghi, Elegance Jeanette, PAC Aristo Salmon, Rose Pope.

Angels Angeline

This group of pelargoniums took its name from the Angeline variety, which participated in the creation of these hybrids. The angels are similar to the royal group, but smaller in size. The flowers resemble violets, with the upper petals usually larger than the lower ones.

Flowering is abundant and long lasting. Leaves with rounded teeth. The flower is not at all whimsical, but it tolerates wintering well at low temperatures. The shape of the bush is upright good lighting, in the shade it can go into an ampel, so angels are common for decorating terraces. The leaves are fragrant with a mint-lemon aroma.

Spectacular varieties - Eskay Saar, PAC Angeleyes Bicolor, PAC Angeleyes Light, Quantock May, Swedish Angel, PAC Angeleyes Randy, PAC Angeleyes Blueberry, PAC Angeleyes Viola.

Pelargonium peltatum

They got their name from the leaves, which are similar to ivy leaves. The peculiarity of this group is that the branches of the bush grow downward. It is ivy-leaved pelargoniums that decorate balconies and verandas. In the flowerbed, ivy-leaved pelargoniums cover the ground like a carpet.

The flowers are varied, depending on the variety, simple, double or semi-double. The shades are also completely different. May be variegated. The leaves are slightly shiny, in some varieties they are matte. A special feature of the care is the creation of cool air temperatures in winter. The group is resistant to fungal diseases. Favorite varieties are Ice Rose, PAC Kate, PAC Tomgirl, SIL Stellena, PAC Vicky, PAC Lilac Rose, Mozaic Sugar Baby.

Succulent pelargoniums

The most exotic group among all pelargoniums. Is different unusual shape stem. They will look great in compositions such as alpine slide, bonsai. The leaves and flowers are small. Succulent pelargoniums grow slowly.

Types of succulent pelargonium:

• angular
• fleshy
• humpback
• another
• cortusifolia
• thick-stemmed
• fuzzy-leaved

Unicums - hybrid pelargoniums

This group is over 150 years old. It was bred by crossing royal and brilliant pelargonium. The leaves are fragrant, dark green. Petals are two-colored. The bush is quite large, grows up to 50 cm, periodically it needs to be trimmed and pinched.

Fragrant pelargonium

The spiciest group. The smell appears if you rub the leaf, but many varieties smell fragrant even with the slightest draft. The leaves of plants can have the most varied and unusual smells, such as the smell of lilac, pineapple, rose, coconut, ginger.

The bush grows large, more than a meter. not always used as decorative element. Most often for the production of geranium oil. Interesting varieties are Ardwick Cinnamon (cinnamon scent), Lady Plymouth (menthol scent), P. laevigatum, Both*s Snowflake, P. tomentozum (menthol scent), Eucament, Orange Fizz (lemon scent).

One of the popular houseplants is geranium. Most varieties have bright colors, a pleasant smell and beneficial properties. Now many have forgotten about them. It grows well at home.

Introduction

Caring for it is accessible even to inexperienced gardeners. But for successful breeding, you need to know the characteristics of the plant.

About 300 years ago, pelargonium was brought to Europe from South Africa and was mistakenly classified as a species of geranium. Since then there has been confusion about the name.

Those flowers that our grandmothers grew on windowsills are called pelargonium. Flower growers have bred approximately 10,000 varieties of it. Geranium is a winter-hardy shrub. To avoid confusion, in the text we will call everyone by their usual name.

Kinds

There are currently 6 known varieties of geranium:

Ampelnaya

Ampelnaya

• It is distinguished by long branches that descend downwards.
• Their length can reach 90 cm.
• It is best hung in a flowerpot.
• Flowers are white, red, purple.
• They are located at the top of the falling branches.
• The inflorescences are tassel-shaped.
• The leaves have a smooth surface.
• There are about 70 varieties of ampelous geraniums.

Royal

Royal

• Geranium is the most capricious of all types.
• It grows as a bush from 30 to 60 cm in height.
• Her flowers are large, double.
• Its inflorescences have the shape of umbrellas.
• Situated on long stems, they form a hat.
• In color, they can be solid, from white to purple, or they can be spotted.
• The leaves are round and have serrated edges.

• The most common type.
• Its bush can reach 80 cm in height.
• Its leaves are round in shape with white, yellow or brownish edges.
• The stems are long, straight, and at their top there are inflorescences - umbrellas.
• Their color is varied, from white to dark red or purple.

Fragrant

Fragrant

• Rare plant.
• This is due to the difficulty of reproduction: Cuttings take several years to take root, but seeds are difficult to obtain.
• It looks like kohlrabi cabbage.
• The leaves, located on long stems, are covered with hairs.
• They have a velvety surface.
• The flowers are on a branched peduncle.
• Their color is greenish-white.

• Has variegated leaves.
• They can have spots, streaks, lines different shades: red, yellow, red.
• The height of the bush is from 15 to 45 cm.
• Its flowers are small, have many colors, but are inconspicuous in appearance.

Beneficial features

Essential oil

Homemade geranium is a medicinal plant. Healers claimed that she could cope with any illness: from ARVI to cancer. It is very often used in alternative medicine.

The folk epic speaks a lot about its benefits, for example, the proverb: “Geranium on the window - health in a basket.”

Let's consider its main properties in more detail:

• Modern scientists have studied its properties. It turned out that the aroma of pelargonium is bactericidal; it purifies the air in the room in which it is located.
• The aroma of the leaves repels insects. Everyone knows that it repels moths. Previously, clothes were arranged in sheets and put away for long-term storage.
• Normalizes blood pressure. To do this, the piece of paper is applied to the wrist.
• Treats colds. It is recommended to gargle with the infusion, and drop the juice from the leaves into the nose, 2 drops at a time.
• Relieves pain symptoms. The leaf is applied to the sore spot.
• Geranium essential oil has a calming effect on the nervous system.
• Using geranium oil you can relieve vasospasm.
• Normalizes heart function.
• Decoctions help with kidney and liver diseases.
• The roots of red pelargonium block the growth of cancerous tumors.

Contraindications

When talking about the properties of the plant, you need to take into account that it can cause harm:

• Children should not be allowed to take infusions and decoctions orally. Use only externally in the form of lotions and compresses.
• Geranium should not be used in the treatment of those who have ulcers, thrombophlebitis, or constipation.
• Use with caution in pregnant women and elderly people.

Features of reproduction

Geranium can be propagated in three ways:

• Seeds
• Cuttings
• Roots

Each method has its pros and cons. Let's take a closer look at them so you can choose one that's convenient for you.

Seeds

Geranium seeds

At home, it is possible to grow a pelargonium bush from seeds. You can collect them from your own plant or buy them. The grown flower may differ from the parent bush. New varieties are developed using this method.

The disadvantage of seed propagation is the duration. The plant takes longer to grow and begin to bloom. After flowering ends, beak-shaped fruits are formed.

You need to let it ripen and dry without tearing it off. When you open the dried fruit, there will be seeds. By the way, pelargonium got its name thanks to its fruits. The literal translation means “beak of a crane.”

In order for the seeds to germinate at home and sprout, you need to follow simple rules:

1. The soil should be loose. For an ideal substrate, mix 2 parts turf soil, 1 part peat and 1 part river sand. It needs to be moisturized. Place the seeds on the surface, keeping a distance of 5 cm. Cover the top with a 0.5 cm layer of sand.
2. To make it easier for the sprouts to hatch, you need to rub the seeds sandpaper. She will remove the top layer. For greater efficiency soak them in a growth enhancer. If these conditions are not met, the germination process will take 3 months.
3. After sowing, the container is covered with film and put away in a warm place. As soon as the seedlings appear, it moves to a bright and cool place. The soil is aerated. Condensation is removed from the film.
4. You need to water in moderation. For watering, use a pinkish solution of potassium permanganate. Drops should not fall on the sprouts themselves.
5. Geranium seedlings are picked 14 days after the plant hatches. You can’t delay it, because the roots are also developing. Late planting can damage them. The geranium is transplanted into a permanent pot on the 45th day.
6. After the sixth leaf appears, they begin to pinch. This process will form a beautiful bush indoor geranium. It won't let him stretch out too much.

Cuttings

Cuttings can be carried out at any time of the year. But the best period will be the off-season: spring, autumn. Although they also have pros and cons.

Spring is the time of awakening. In geranium shoots it is activated Vital energy. By planting the cutting at this time, you can already enjoy the flowering of the young bush in the summer. But on the other hand, cutting cuttings will slow down flowering.

In autumn, after the flowering period is over, the cuttings are stronger. They, having become stronger, will accept it faster. Florists autumn period reproduction is considered the best. The downside is that you will have to wait until summer for the first flowers.

How to take cuttings:

• Cuttings are cut only when they are healthy and without damage. The optimal length is 7–10 cm. This should be done with a sharp knife or pruning shears. The cut should be located between the nodes of the branch.
• Excess leaves must be removed. Only a few pieces are left at the top. This is done so that nutrition does not go to the foliage, but to form roots.
• The cuttings are kept in the purchased solution to stimulate root formation for 3 – 5 minutes.

Rooting options:

• A hole is made in the substrate, where the future bush is planted.
• You can, after the amplifier solution, put it in a glass of water. To disinfect, crush two tablets of activated carbon into it. It is transplanted into the soil after roots appear.

This method is not suitable for royal geraniums. It will rot in water.

• There is a way to root in a bag: pour soil into it, tie it, make slits, where the cuttings are planted. It is not particularly convenient, but moisture is thus retained, preventing the substrate from drying out. This is important for the appearance of roots.
• There are special greenhouses. They consist of a container for soil and a lid with holes for ventilation. The method is good for large quantity processes. They come heated. Their use is convenient: the soil is moistened, plants are planted, and closed. And all that remains is to wait for rooting.

Whatever method is chosen, you need to remember that the main thing is hydration. Water nourishes and promotes the formation of the root system. But you can’t overwater geranium. It will rot from excess moisture.

Propagation by roots

Sometimes geraniums grow new shoots from their roots. If you plant them out, you will get a new bush. To do this, the entire plant must be carefully removed from the ground. The root is divided so that the children have part of the root system. Then the bushes are planted in separate pots.

Care

Watering a flower

• Pelargonium is not whimsical. She doesn't demand special care, but the rules must be followed. Then the plant will delight with lush foliage and beautiful umbrellas of flowers.
• Geranium is a big sun lover. Pots with it can be placed in open sunlight. Cover the bushes only in extreme heat to prevent the foliage from getting burned.
• Watering should be plentiful, especially in hot weather. Nevertheless, it is worth observing the measure. From an excess of moisture, the geranium will begin to rot and die.
• To avoid stagnation of water, you need to think about good drainage for each pot. For example, put medium-sized pebbles on the bottom. The container should be small so that the root system can entangle the entire earthen ball.
• Bushes should not be sprayed. Geranium foliage does not like excess moisture. When watering, you also need to try not to get it wet.
• Depending on the period, you need to choose feeding. So, during flowering, geraniums need mineral fertilizers, containing phosphorus and potassium. Once it has finished blooming, it needs to be fertilized with nitrogen.
• You need to feed every week from April to October. If the bush is transplanted, then there is no need to use fertilizing for 2 - 3 months.

Features of care in autumn and winter

With the onset of cold weather, the care of pelargonium needs to be changed. Temperatures below +12 degrees will become critical.

She loves warmth

In autumn and winter, geraniums should be placed on windows to ensure maximum illumination. It is advisable that the room is not very hot. Regular ventilation is recommended.

Watering should be reduced to once a week. Be sure to check the substrate; you don’t need to overdry it either.. This can cause the geranium to wilt. Fertilizers also need to be reduced. Once every month and a half is enough.

In autumn and winter, you may notice partial yellowing of the leaves. This is a normal process. They just need to be removed. If the tips of the leaves dry out, this indicates a lack of moisture. The solution is to increase watering.

Transfer

Preparatory process

Geranium tolerates transplantation well, regardless of the time of year, although it is better to carry out the procedure in the spring. Waking up from winter dormancy, the plant tolerates any changes more easily.

In summer, when the flowering period begins, its forces are directed to the inflorescences. The transplanted bush will spend it on the root system, adapting to the new environment.

Do not forget that geranium does not like space. You need to choose a compact pot for transplanting. In a large container it will not bloom profusely, its purpose will be to develop the root system.

To understand that it’s time to replant the bush, there are several criteria:

• Plant growth has slowed down
• The soil dries out quickly, which leads to more frequent watering
• Roots peeking out of a hole in the bottom of a pot
• You can check by removing a lump of geranium. If the roots have entwined the entire lump, then it is time to transplant

When transplanting is carried out into an old pot, it must be disinfected. Wash in a solution of potassium permanganate or bleach.

Transplant process:

• Drainage is placed in the prepared pot
• Get a bush with a lump of earth from an old container
• Check to see if all the roots are healthy. Damaged or showing signs of disease are cut off with scissors.
• Next, place it in a new pot. The space between the flower and the walls is filled with moistened soil
• The substrate must be compacted so that air does not pass through it
• There is no need to feed geraniums for the first 3 months.

Trimming

• Pruning the branches of a bush is done to form a bush. The process stimulates the growth of side shoots. Geraniums begin to form from the moment of planting.
• Geranium grows tall. Without pruning, it may not produce lateral shoots. It has buds at the nodes that bloom and produce a new shoot when upward growth is blocked.
• Pruning is best done with a sharp knife. Scissors pinch the stem and damage the tissue. This leads to plant disease.

The cut is treated with activated carbon. This will prevent rotting and pest attacks.

• Pruning should be done to improve the health of the bush. When the inflorescences begin to fade, they are cut off. Dried and damaged branches are also removed. And only after this, if necessary, the strongly grown shoots are shortened.
• The procedure is carried out regularly until winter. From December to March, geraniums are left alone. During this period of time, she is vulnerable, and her growth is slowed down.
• In spring for lush flowering remove weakened stems. If there are long ones, they can be shortened. It is important to leave 3 buds, this will ensure lush flowering.