Drainage near the house. How to make drainage around the house at an early stage with plastic pipes? Purpose and types of systems

In a private house there are several places that need to be protected from getting wet from the outside. These are the foundation and buried buildings. Rainwater, all kinds of drains and rising groundwater gradually destroy the monolithic foundations and walls of basements. A properly equipped drainage system around the house can prevent this process from occurring. It is capable of removing excess moisture from structures. Even a very good blind area cannot compare in terms of protection for a house with a installed drainage system. It is highly recommended to install such a system near every house, regardless of the presence of a basement or ground floor.

A high-quality drainage system around the house with your own hands can be made in several options:

Features of different foundation drainage systems

The choice of a specific type of drainage depends on the presence of recessed rooms, the depth of location groundwater, the composition of the soil on the site and the topography of the site itself. Let's consider what features the drainage system around the house has.

In total, there are 3 types of drainage, which differ in their location and design:

Important: Please note that reservoir drainage does not replace another type of drainage, but only complements it. Therefore, in addition to it, a main drainage system must be installed.

Please note that if you decide to make a ring drainage around the house with your own hands, the system should be located 0.5 m below the foundation level. This arrangement will ensure high-quality drainage of groundwater from the building at any time of the year.

And if you are thinking about this, then you may find our separate material on this topic useful.

Drainage installation

Let's look at how to make a drainage system around the house in two ways.

Manufacturing of wall drainage

Before carrying out the work, it is necessary to prepare the foundation, since the system will be directly adjacent to it.

To do this, the following work is carried out:

The foundation from the outside is primed with a special bitumen primer.
Bitumen mastic is applied to the dried surface.
Sticks to mastic reinforcement mesh with cells 2 x 2 mm.
The next day, after the mastic has hardened, a second layer of mastic is again applied to the mesh.

The photo shows the drainage system around the house - a trench and inspection wells along the edges

A collector well is installed to which drainage pipes will be connected. It is located at the lowest point on the site;
using a laser or building level, the slope of the trench running near the foundation is ensured towards the drainage basin;
the bottom of the trenches is covered with a layer of sand of at least 5 cm;
geotextiles are laid on the sand, the sides of which will subsequently be wrapped overlapping;
a gravel backfill is created having a thickness of about 10 cm;
Prepared perforated pipes are laid on the gravel layer. Their slope is ensured at 2 degrees;
pipes are joined with adapters and corner connectors;
at the corners of the building, all pipelines enter installed inspection wells;
pipes are laid from inspection wells that drain water into a collecting well or drain hole. These pipes are also located in trenches and have a slope;
The pipes are filled with gravel (about 10 cm) and the entire contents are wrapped in geotextiles. Using synthetic ropes, geotextiles are firmly fixed;
further backfilling of the trenches to the soil level is carried out with sand or turf soil.

We looked at how to make drainage around a wall-type foundation. Next, we will pay attention to the manufacture of trench drainage, which is even more popular.

Manufacturing of ring drainage

For this type of work you will also need perforated pipes, crushed stone, sand and geotextiles. When a ring drainage system is made around a house, the technology involves digging trenches at a distance of 5-8 m from the foundation of the building to eliminate the possibility of subsidence of the soil around it. The trenches are located around the structure and represent closed system. The depth of the trenches should be such that the drainage passes 50 cm below the foundation level.

Immediately draw a trench (or several trenches) towards the main drainage well. The slope of the trenches is ensured at least 2-3 cm per linear meter. The slope can be adjusted by adding sand in the right places.

the bottom of the trenches is lined with a layer of sand, and then with geotextiles, the edges of which are wrapped on their walls;
crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile in a layer of 10 cm;
Pipes with holes drilled in them are laid out on the crushed stone. It is advisable to use a pipe diameter of at least 10 cm. It is advisable to first wrap all pipes with a layer of geotextile, which will prevent them from clogging;

Tip: Regular ones will do just fine. PVC pipes, used for sewerage. You can drill holes of small diameter in them with a drill, arranging them in a certain order.

the slope of the pipes is checked, which must be at least 2 degrees;
At pipe bends, inspection wells are installed, covered with removable covers. The same wells should be installed on long straight sections, in increments of 12 m;
crushed stone or gravel is poured over the laid pipes in a layer of 20-30 cm;
the entire “pie” inside the trenches is wrapped with geotextile overlapping;
the remaining space in the trenches is filled with river sand and covered with turf.

Features of drainage wells

Any drainage around a site or building must be constructed using several inspection wells located at pipe bends. These are the places where clogging most often occurs. drainage pipes. Through the inspection well, you can monitor the cleanliness of the drains and clean them if necessary. Wells can be purchased or made from any materials. They should have such a width that it is convenient to clean them by placing your hand there.

In addition to several inspection wells, at the lowest point of the site there is collector well, designed to collect all the water flowing through the channels. This is a wider and more voluminous structure, which can be concrete, plastic or metal. Its depth is chosen so that the pipes entering it are located at a considerable distance from the bottom. This makes it possible to periodically clean the well from sediments accumulated at its bottom and allows the well to fill with wastewater. From the collection tank, water can be pumped out by a pump or flow by gravity to designated areas.

By creating a drainage system around the house according to all the rules, you will get rid of the harmful effects of excessive dampness affecting the foundation and recessed areas of the house.

Let’s make a reservation right away: drainage and waterproofing are different concepts and one of them does not exclude the other. Drainage around the house (drainage system) allows you to remove or reduce the water level in the area.

The danger lies both outside (precipitation, flood waters) and inside (groundwater). Waterproofing protects the foundation of a building from water getting inside.

But even a foundation that is well insulated from water will not protect the foundation of a private house (basement) and basement from water ingress for a long time. After all, if water presses constantly, it will find weak spots in the waterproofing. And on the contrary, if you take her away in time, your home or dacha will be safe.

DIY drainage around the house

When a drainage system is needed:

site location. The lower it is, the more pressing the drainage problem;
soil quality - on clay and loamy soils, the water level decreases slowly;
precipitation levels in your area;
groundwater level;
deepening of other buildings on the site. If a nearby building has a deeply buried foundation, the water will have nowhere to go and will accumulate on the surface, increasing the risk of flooding;
presence of waterproof coatings – concrete paths, an asphalt yard is a place inaccessible to water penetration.

Installing drainage around the house with your own hands will eliminate the problems caused by the factors listed above.

Types of drainage systems

Depending on the severity of the problem of flooding in the area, there are several ways to make drainage around a private house.

Surface drainage

This type includes storm drainage (storm drainage). The advantage of such drainage is that its arrangement is simpler and accessible after most types of work on the site have been completed. Surface drainage systems can only remove rain and melt water; they cannot cope with groundwater.

There are two types surface device drainage: linear and point.

Linear drainage

Focused on draining storm or melt water from the entire site and from the house in particular. Water flows into channels dug in the ground and is discharged into drainage well. As a rule, the channels have a straight linear shape and are closed with gratings.

Point drainage

Focused on the rapid removal of water generated from local sources (for example, under roof gutters, watering taps, etc.). Point drains are covered with decorative metal gratings to prevent clogging of the channel with debris and leaves. Drainage pipes are laid from each point and connected to the main main pipe leading to the drainage well.

Combined drainage combines the two above-mentioned systems: point and linear drainage.

According to the method of installation, drainage can be open or closed

Open drainage

A system of trenches, gutters, drains or drainage trays.

This drainage is a trench that is designed to drain storm and melt water from the house and the site.

The principle of an open drainage system

A ditch up to half a meter wide and 50-60 cm deep is dug along all sides of the site and around the house. All these trenches are connected to a common drainage trench.

In order for water to flow freely into the trench from the side of the house, a bevel is made in the ditch at an angle of 30°, and a slope towards the main water intake trench (or drain well) will allow water to be drained by gravity in the desired direction.

Plus open system drainage can be called low cost and high speed of work. But, if you need to drain a large amount of melt and rain water, you will have to install a deep drainage line into which someone could fall. Unimproved ditch walls are destroyed. Such a system spoils the appearance of the site.

The service life and safety of such a system can be increased by using special trays (made of plastic or concrete), which are covered with gratings on top.

Open drainage around the house

Closed drainage

It has a more aesthetic appearance compared to the previous one, as it is equipped protective grille, but the receiving ditch is much narrower and shallower. Their types are presented in the photo.

Closed drainage around the house

Backfill drainage - a system of backfilled trenches

It is used when the area of the site is small and it is impossible or impractical to make open drainage. The disadvantage of this system is the inability to carry out maintenance of the trench after installation without dismantling.

Proper drainage around a house of this type is achieved in several stages.

a trench is dug to a depth of about a meter with obligatory observance of a slope towards the drainage well;

Geotextiles are laid at the bottom of the trench;

the trench is filled with gravel, crushed stone, etc.;

A layer of turf is laid on top. This stage is optional, but allows you to give the site a more aesthetic appearance.

Backfill drainage

Deep drainage

Disposal of a large amount of groundwater requires the construction of a solid system - deep drainage of the site. The device of a deep drainage system is used in areas with clay soil located in lowlands and characterized by high level groundwater.

The installation process is labor-intensive and consists of laying pipes (the diameter depends on the amount of water drained) from perforations into deep trenches (depending on the height of the soil water).

Closed drainage - pipe system

Diagram of a closed drainage device, pipes and installation method

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

Step-by-step instructions for installing drainage closed type

Determine the location of the closed drainage system, which can be implemented in two options:

pass only near the foundation, i.e. around the house (wall drainage), preventing water from penetrating directly into the house.
be located throughout the site, thus protecting the basement of the cottage, as well as plantings and other outbuildings.

Closed drainage device (solid, wall)

The drainage diagram around the house is shown in the photo

Map out the location drainage ditches Location on. Typically, devices such as a laser rangefinder and a level are used for this. But, you can make it simpler, trace where the water grooves remain after the rain - that’s where drainage trenches should be laid.

Dig trenches. When digging, be sure to observe the height difference. After all, water should flow to the drainage well, and not accumulate in pipes.

Digging a trench for site drainage country house

Lay a layer of geotextile. Its role in drainage is to filter water from impurities that could clog the drainage pipe perforations.

Laying geotextiles at the bottom of the trench for drainage

You can use any geotexyl, the main thing is that it allows and filters water well. It is better not to use dense needle-punched geotextiles, because... it does not pass water well.

Laying a perforated pipe Lay a perforated pipe - the basis of the drainage system. Pipes can be ceramic or plastic. But any type of pipe must have perforation to receive water (perforation can be done independently, using a drill). The pipes are connected to each other using a cross or tee.

Lead the ends of the pipe into inspection wells. Such wells are installed at all turns so that the system can be maintained. For example, clean a pipe with water pressure or evaluate changes in water level.

Lead the ends of the pipe into the drainage well. This is the last component closed system drainage.

Exiting pipes into inspection wells

According to their functional purpose, drainage wells are divided into two types:

accumulating. This well has a sealed bottom. Water is accumulated in it and then used for irrigation;
absorbing. A well without a bottom, the water in it gradually disappears into the soil.

Fill the geofabric with crushed stone without reaching the top ground level of 200mm.
Fill the drainage pipes with crushed stone to a height of 300mm.
Wrap the pipes with geotextile overlapping and secure the joints with rope.
Fill in sand, soil and/or lay turf.

Absorption well and geotextile wrapping of drainage pipe

The finished drainage system is shown in cross-section in the photo.

Sectional diagram of the drainage system

Which of the listed types of drainage is right for you can only be determined by knowing the characteristics of the site. In general, you should choose the drainage around the house whose cost of installation and operation is the lowest, and of course, which you can do yourself. At the same time, it must perform the role of drainage efficiently and reliably. After all, according to experts, proper drainage around the house will extend its service life by more than 50 years.

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house - diagram, instructions, tips

How to make drainage around a house - the principle of constructing a proper closed and closed drainage system open type. Methods for draining water from the base and foundation of the house and from the site. Photo and video instructions

Drainage system around the house: drainage device to dry the soil around the perimeter

If the site is located in an area of frequent moisture accumulation, then a drainage system around the house is mandatory. A drainage device will allow the soil to dry around the perimeter. Constant exposure to water on load-bearing structures leads to rapid destruction, as the rate of reproduction of microorganisms and fungi increases sharply.

Preparing a trench for laying pipelines

Drainage system around the house: drainage device in two versions

Channels for water drainage can be laid in two main ways. At open version location, the aesthetic characteristics of the surrounding landscape are violated. Therefore, in most cases, they resort to constructing deep systems, when perforated pipelines are buried in the ground.

The pipelines are supposed to be laid next to the foundation

Drainage in a summer cottage. The easiest way to drain storm and melt water, types and nuances of installation in a special publication in our online magazine.

Benefits of Open Networks

The advantages of systems with open channels for soil drainage are as follows:

the drainage is superficial and therefore does not require labor-intensive work;
when installing channels, no additional elements are needed, which avoids unnecessary costs;
The system is effective when used on clay soils.

Open type drainage decorated with stones

Advantages of deep networks

The main advantage of closed networks is the hidden installation of elements, that is, after some time after completion of the work, no traces remain. You can engage in landscape design without restrictions. However, such systems are poorly effective in the presence of clay soil located near the surface.

A classic pipeline laying scheme is presented

Constructing a ring drainage around the house with your own hands: how to make a reliable system

When installing a drainage system around a house with your own hands, a few meters are removed from the building. At the same time, closed storm sewer pipelines can be dug in to ensure the removal of sediment from the surface. roofing and paths.

The construction of a ring system is demonstrated

DIY deep drainage around the house

The process of constructing a closed moisture drainage network is very labor-intensive, as it involves laying pipelines in the ground and then burying them. For the work, it is necessary to purchase suitable perforated pipes and geotextiles to protect the surface of the elements from silting.

Crushed stone should be between the pipe and geofabric

The location for the drain well and the location of the pipelines are determined. It is better to dig a hole for drainage in the lowest part of the site, so as not to go too deep into the ground.
Trenches are dug with a slope of 2 cm towards the well. Their bottom is covered with a sand layer of 10-15 cm. All irregularities allowed during earthworks oh, they're hiding.
A geofabric sheet is spread over the sand. Its edges must protrude from the trench in order to make an overlap. The material is cut with a sharp knife.
A layer of crushed stone at least 15 cm thick is poured onto the geotextile. This will allow the pipes to be positioned at a certain distance from the fabric, thereby ensuring protection against dirt getting into the perforations.
The pipes are laid on an embankment of crushed stone and connected to each other. If there are turns from the interchange, then inspection wells must be made in these places.
The laid pipelines are covered with crushed stone until the thickness of the layer above the elements is at least 15 cm. This is necessary to protect the side and top holes in the pipes from silting.
The edges of the geofabric overlap with a slight overlap. The rest of the trench is filled with ordinary soil.

The edges of the geotextile sheets should protrude from the trench

Work to create open drainage around a residential building

Open systems are most effective at draining surface water that falls in the form of precipitation. They are ditches no more than 50 cm deep, located along a given trajectory. Trenches around the perimeter will spoil the appearance of the site, so decorating them is simply necessary.

Open drainage is used to collect precipitation

The materials most often used for decoration are natural stones or brushwood. First, large cobblestones are laid at the bottom of the ditches to form channels for the passage of water. Then medium-sized stones or tree branches are laid.

This scheme creates an open drainage system around the house. A drainage device of this type is considered quite economical. During the work, no additional elements such as pipes or special membranes are used. The correct decor will allow the gutters to be successfully integrated into the overall landscape of the site.

Decorative grilles act as protective and decorative elements

Prices for turnkey drainage work around the house: ready-made option

Those developers who do not want to figure out how to properly make drainage around the house can hire professional workers. Many companies offer a wide range of services for creating various systems from design to implementation. The table shows prices for a complete list of works.

A trench is being prepared for laying pipelines

Drainage system around the house: do-it-yourself drainage system

If your site is located in an area of frequent moisture accumulation, then a drainage system around the house must be installed. A drainage device will allow you to dry the soil around the perimeter, and you can do it yourself.

How to make drainage around the house at an early stage with plastic pipes?

Required Tools

There are several options for how to make drainage around the house. However, upon closer examination, the optimal solution is a closed drainage system, the arrangement of which has many secrets.

1 Drainage system around the house - why is it needed?

A typical construction misconception (typical of people without experience, but with money) is the substitution of fundamental concepts. Drainage does not replace foundation waterproofing! A foundation that is perfectly insulated from moisture still needs a drainage system! The reason lies deep in your site - in alternating layers of clay and loam, in seasonal changes in the groundwater level.

The relative height of the site on the ground is no less important - the lower it is, the more relevant it is to install drainage around the house with your own hands. The amount of precipitation and external permeability of the soil also contribute to the need for drainage. There are many factors, and not all of them can be taken into account before building a house. And they manifest themselves in quite tangible ways - in the form of basement mold, fungi on load-bearing beams and other unpleasant forms.

Therefore, the drainage system is laid at the excavation stage, when digging a pit for a house. All other drainage schemes for melt and groundwater, precipitation, etc. should be recognized as patching holes in a unraveling shirt, although for the sake of objectivity we will consider them too.

2 How to make drainage around the house - installation options

There are only three of these, and the first two are carried out with great reservations. They pose a potential danger to the life and health of residents and are more relevant for those houses in which there are no children:

Open option. A ditch is dug around the house, and its depth should exceed the depth of the foundation. The width of the ditch can be narrow, plus it is necessary to make a slope for the natural flow of water. As a result, a slit-like trench appears on your own site, which fatally affects the impressiveness appearance. It can be decorated with external ceilings, but the danger of children and animals falling into such a ditch remains;
Backfill option. Is the same open ditch, but covered on top with rubble stone, cinder blocks, crushed stone and decorated with turf. No one will fall into it, but technical operation filling system is fundamentally impossible. In the event of an emergency blockage of the drainage, the entire ditch will have to be opened, and the problem area will have to be localized on a whim. That is, you will need to dig through the entire area as if you were looking for treasure;
Closed option. Performed by drainage pipes, safe and effective, allows Maintenance And various ways arrangement. We will consider this in more detail: how to make drainage on a site with your own hands using buried pipes. And let's start with their choice.

3 How to make drainage on a site - we choose pipes with our own hands

Drainage pipes are produced by our (and not our) industry in the following varieties:

Asbestos-cement, the strongest, most durable... and heaviest. Additional joy comes from the need to make through cuts in them, in a checkerboard pattern and quite long - every 15-20 cm with a size of at least 5 mm. Manufacturers emphasize the service life of such pipes, which reaches 50 years, and asbestos cement itself is not afraid of aggressive environments;
Ceramic - that is, simply clay. This means they are fragile and can be damaged during transportation and storage. However, some types of ceramic pipes are good for the presence of additional surface grooves, they contribute to increased moisture collection. Perforation of ceramic pipes is similar to asbestos-cement, that is, it is performed independently, on site. Installation is difficult due to the low strength of the ceramic drainage material;
Porous pipes are made of plastic concrete, expanded clay glass and other modern building materials. They do not require perforation at all due to their porous structure - moisture collects through capillary channels in the walls. Financially expensive, effective drainage is ensured with a significant pipe diameter;
Polymer pipes - made of polypropylene, polyethylene and other plastics. Lightweight, economical, easy to install and effective for a long time long term operation - 90% of drainage work in private houses is carried out by them.

4 Installation of drainage around the house - with your own hands and step by step

Step by step instructions with practical advice How to make drainage around a house consists of the following steps for its arrangement:

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Surveyor

We determine the lowest point of our site - yes, yes, the trench will have to be pulled to it, there will be a drainage well there. Because avoiding mold in your basement is important, but preventing waterlogged soil is also a good idea. If the area is flat, there is tall grass and other external complications, the theodolite will help determine the lower point. This tool can be rented or asked from friends - it cannot be classified as a permanent construction necessity.

The ditches around the house must have a slope of at least 1 centimeter per linear meter. Water will flow even with a slope of 3 mm per meter, but dirty moisture with fine sand and loam will flow through our drainage, inner surface pipes will become coated with plaque over time. So you will have to lay a slope of at least 10 mm per 1 meter. This will lead to an increase in the volume of excavation work, but will benefit the durability of the drainage system.

Step 2: Digger

Dig, Shura, they are golden... The depth of the ditch around the house itself must exceed the lowest point of the foundation by at least 30 cm. This is also why drainage work is carried out at the foundation pit stage, because... it is still dug out “with a reserve” sufficient for laying pipes. For the excavation stage of work, sharp bayonet shovel, a shovel assistant will also not be superfluous - for lifting the soil upward.

The top point of the ditch is located on the opposite side of the drainage well in the lower part of the site, the width of the ditch is about 50 cm. Each linear meter must be checked bubble level to comply with the required slope.

Step 3: filling and covering

Crushed stone of 10-15 mm fractions is poured onto the bottom of our trench - that is, quite large. A layer of sand is placed on top and compacted. The total thickness of the sand and gravel layer is approximately 15 cm. The slope profile must be accurately maintained - 1 cm per meter is visually difficult to recognize, especially in a narrow trench. Again we use a level; uniformity of slope is important for long-term gravity flow of water in drainage pipes.

The bottom of the trench, extending onto the walls at least 60-70 cm on each side, is covered with geotextile; this material will not allow moisture to go down to the gravel-sand layer. At the junction of geotextile strips we make a wide overlap. We again pour crushed stone on top, this time of a small thickness - 5-7 mm, repeating the slope line.

Step 4: Finally Drainage

Drainage pipes are laid along the second crushed stone surface. Their joints are insulated special tape. Inspection wells with covers are laid in at least two opposite corners of the house - their height must immediately correspond to the level of the turf on the garden plot.

The pipe line is pulled to inspection and drainage wells and checked by pouring water from the top point, at least several buckets. As long as the drainage communications are open, any error can be easily corrected. When there is no doubt about the accuracy of the slope and the tightness of the joints, the pipes can be backfilled.

Step 5: final

A layer of gravel up to 40 cm thick is carefully poured onto the surface of the pipes. Geotextiles are wrapped on it - now the gravel will not be subject to silt deposits. A storm sewer pipe can be laid on top of the geotextile fabric and also led into the drainage well. The storm pipe is connected to the drains, for which its fittings are brought to the surface.

The gravel layer is covered with earth, and turf is laid on top. Our drainage system around the house is ready. Now the home is not afraid of any bad weather, as are fluctuations in the groundwater level and dampness in the premises - just do not forget to properly waterproof the basement; drainage does not replace it.

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands, video instructions

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands, what are the main stages of implementing a drainage system, video tips on protecting against flooding and mold will tell you

Drainage and drainage of the area around the house

Drainage around the house and drainage of the area are carried out only if the location of your house is not very favorable - in low-lying or swampy areas, in floodplains of rivers or reservoirs. However, you should not think that drainage around the house with your own hands and drying local area- an impossible task. It is quite possible to cope with these works on your own, albeit with certain knowledge.

Do-it-yourself drainage of the area around the house

If the site is located in a lowland or groundwater flows close to its surface, it is necessary to drain the area. It is optimal when the groundwater level is at a depth of more than 2.5 m from the surface.

If the distance is less than 1.5 m, then the bearing capacity of the soil decreases - it becomes waterlogged and saturated with water. This affects the settlement of the foundation and makes the construction of a basement or ground floor problematic.

To drain the area around the perimeter of the planned house, or better yet along the edges of the entire yard, they dig channels with a slight slope and organize drainage. The optimal width of such channels is 50-70 cm.

The depth is calculated in each case individually, since it depends on how much the groundwater level needs to be lowered. Drainage is laid as follows.

At a distance of 2-3 m from the house, dig a ditch with a depth equal to the base of the foundation. A 15-20 cm layer of clay is placed on its bottom, giving it the shape of a tray. Medium-sized stones are carefully laid on top, forming sides. Large stones are placed on top, forming a vault. Gravel or crushed stone 25-30 cm high is placed on it. Everything is covered with soil removed during excavation. Water will seep through the soil into the tray and flow in the desired direction.

How to make proper drainage of the area around the house

Proper drainage around the house can be made more in a modern way- lay drainage pipes from special materials. Their inner wall surface is smooth, which accelerates water drainage, and the outer layer is corrugated, which gives rigidity and strength. The pipes are laid underground to a depth of 5 m.

The drainage system around the house looks like this:

Drainage trenches are placed in a part of the site free from buildings, connected by a common drainage pipe, and the runoff is discharged into a street ditch.

The drainage system for drainage around the house is laid with a slope of 2-3° from separate drains made of pipes with a diameter of 100-150 mm and a length of up to 20 m. To do this, dig a trench with a slope towards the drainage basin.

The top of the pipes is first covered with coarse crushed stone in a layer of at least 20 cm, then with soil.

When the drainage network slopes in the opposite direction from the street, a pond with sides of 2x4 m and vertical walls is built in the depths of the site to collect water.

Laying a system of pipes to drain the area around the house is difficult and expensive. But this is necessary for areas that are located in lowlands or on a slope, that is, in places where large amounts of water accumulate. Almost all organizations that sell drainage pipes are involved in project development and carry out the corresponding work. If necessary, you can contact them.

Do-it-yourself drainage of the site and foundation of the house

Do-it-yourself home drainage using pipes is done as follows:

Step 1. Mark the planned drainage using a spray gun or by scattering sand.

Step 2. Manually or mechanically dig grooves 40-60 cm deep, clear of debris, check the evenness using a ruler and spirit level.

Step 3. Pour a layer of sand 5-7 cm thick at the bottom of the dug trench. Lay a drained pipe on top. Connect the pipes with tees and fittings.

Step 4. Pour a layer of gravel onto the pipe, not reaching 10-15 cm from the ground surface. Lay a geotextile film on top. Pour soil onto it, level with the surface of the earth, and level it.

It is advisable to include a diagram of the system for drainage of the foundation of a house on the general plan drawing so as not to damage it when performing any excavation work on the site. Drainage can be done without the use of pipes. To construct such a system, first dig a ditch, then lay geotextiles in such a way that its bottom and walls are covered with a margin of about 30 cm. A layer of crushed stone (large and medium fraction) is poured on top to 1/2-2/3 of the height of the ditch. The crushed stone is overlapped with geotextile and covered with soil, leveling it with the ground level.

Sometimes owners of private houses are faced with the fact that melt and rainwater flood not only the plantings on the site, but also the paths. To solve this problem, when draining the foundation of a house with your own hands, it is recommended to install drains on both sides of the paths of the site.

The grooves are dug at a distance of 40-50 cm from the main road and 25-30 cm from the secondary paths, which are initially made with a slight convexity in the center or with a slope of 2-3° to the side. The water is drained into cuvettes and moves in the desired direction.

Effluent from the drainage can be diverted outside the construction site or a decorative pond can be made on the site. Its depth depends on the location drain pipe drainage network. The walls of such an artificial pond must be compacted with crumpled clay, waterproofed with several layers of hydroglass insulation, lined with bricks, natural stone or filled with concrete, and the banks are decorated with water-loving plants.

Sometimes people buy an old house within the city limits to demolish it and build a new one on this site. In this case, drainage planning has already been carried out on the site, based on a deep (at least 1 m) street ditch with a guaranteed spillway towards the slope of the terrain.

After the site has been drained and drained, the surface of the site has become level and the required slope has been met, the layout of the house on the ground begins.

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house: drainage of the area, installation and proper drainage of the foundation

How to make drainage around the house and dry the area with your own hands: recommendations with photographs | Online magazine about construction “Build a House!” - only reliable information.

Drainage of ground and storm water from the foundation will significantly increase the service life and capital building, And country house building. An easy-to-use drainage system will protect underground concrete structures from gradual erosion and basements from watering. But it is extremely important to prevent the destruction of the very foundation of the structure, right?

A well-designed drainage scheme around the house will help to build an efficient system for collecting and draining natural water. We invite you to familiarize yourself with carefully selected and verified information based on regulatory documents and real experience of builders of low-rise buildings.

We will tell you in detail about the types of drainage systems, the features of their design, and the specifics of operation. We will give reasons in favor of choosing a certain type of drainage. The useful information presented to your attention is supplemented with photos, diagrams and video instructions.

When designing a drainage system, the goals that are planned to be achieved are first determined. They may consist of draining the entire area, protecting the foundation and basement of the house from excess moisture.

Of the existing drainage systems, two main types can be distinguished - open and deep (closed). The first one can be used for needs Agriculture, for drainage from cultivated areas. Closed drainage is used to drain water in dacha and cottage areas, to protect buildings from the negative effects of high groundwater levels.

The organization of a drainage system is necessary when the groundwater level is high, which is especially evident during the flood period. Drainage protects the concrete foundation from the aggression of underground water and reduces the hydraulic load

Combined drainage systems are also used. They are often supplemented with storm sewer lines designed for recycling atmospheric water. Provided they are properly designed, they can significantly save on the construction of each system separately.

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The first and main sign that site owners need to arrange drainage is stagnation of water during the snowmelt period. This means that the underlying soils have low filtration capacity, i.e. do not allow water to pass through well or not at all

Drainage is necessary in areas with pronounced signs of soil erosion: cracks that appear during the dry period. This is a manifestation of soil erosion by groundwater, ultimately leading to destruction

Collection and drainage of water is required if, during the period of snowmelt and heavy rainfall, groundwater rises to the level of utility lines.

Drainage systems are constructed in areas with a characteristic slope. But in this case they are needed for a balanced distribution of water and retention of it on elevated areas

Flooding of the area during snowmelt

Erosion and erosion of soil under the foundation

Water at the level of utility lines

Suburban plot with slope

#1: Open drainage device

Open drainage is the simplest and most economical method of draining water, which can be used subject to the following conditions:

the underlying soil layer is clayey, poorly permeable to water, which is why the fertile layer, located 20–30 cm from the surface of the earth, is waterlogged;
the site is located in a lowland into which rainwater naturally flows during periods of heavy rainfall;
there is no natural slope in the terrain of the site to ensure the movement of excess water towards the street.

Open drainage is arranged in areas with high groundwater level, the elevation of which is most often determined by the location of the land plot in a lowland or the clayey composition of the soil, which does not allow or very weakly allows water to pass into the underlying layers.

A drainage system designed to drain excess groundwater works perfectly in tandem with a storm drain, whose job is to collect and drain precipitation (+)

Planning a drainage scheme is best done at the design stage of a house. This will allow you to tie up the work and place the rainwater inlet under the gutters before installing the blind area.

Open drainage is considered the simplest and does not require drawing up a diagram. It consists of trenches 0.5 m wide and 0.6-0.7 m deep. The sides of the trench are positioned at an angle of 30°. They encircle the perimeter of the territory and direct wastewater into a ditch or pit, into a storm drain.

Areas sloping towards the street are easier to drain. To do this, a drainage ditch is dug in front of the house, across the slope, which will retain water from the garden. Then they dig a ditch, it will direct the wastewater towards the street, into the ditch.

If the site has a slope in the opposite direction from the road, then a transverse drainage ditch is dug in front of the fence facade and another longitudinal one is made to the end of the site.

The disadvantage of such drainage is its low aesthetics and the need to regularly clean the gutters from silt and dirt that periodically accumulate in them. This type of drainage is not recommended to be installed under the road surface, as it leads to subsidence of the soil and deformation of the road surface.

The length of lines for water drainage, the number of wells and sand collectors depends on the area of the site, its topography, and the intensity of precipitation in a particular area.

Drainage ditches can be strengthened from erosion using reinforced concrete slabs, stone paving, turf with crushed stone bottom

If the site is considered more or less flat, and its level of swampiness is not too high, then you can get by with the installation of a simple drainage system.

Along the foundation of the fence, in the lowest place of the site, they dig a ditch 0.5 m wide, 2-3 m long and 1 m deep. Although such a drainage system will protect against high groundwater levels, it will also cope well with precipitation.

To prevent the edges of the ditch from collapsing, it is filled with rubble, broken glass and brick. Having filled it, they dig the next one, it is also filled and compacted tightly. The excavated soil is used to fill low-lying areas on the territory

Over time, this simple drainage system may become ineffective due to gradual silting. To prevent this from happening, it can be protected with a geo-textile. It is laid on the ground, and after filling the ditch, the drainage layer is overlapped with it. From above, to hide the ditch, it is sprinkled with a layer of fertile soil.

#2: Construction of an effective storm drain

Storm drainage is necessary for the accumulation and removal from the site of water falling in the form of precipitation. It is equipped with point and linear drainage devices.

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Stormwater sewer systems arranged to collect atmospheric water and prevent its penetration into the soil and then into the underlying soils

Based on the type of water intake devices, storm sewer systems are divided into point and linear. The former are built in areas with organized drainage, the latter - with unorganized

Linear water intakes have a much larger collection area than point ones. They are installed next to houses with unorganized drainage and on areas paved with a waterproof coating

In linear storm drains, water is both collected and transported through a network of channels covered with metal or plastic grating. In point systems, water is drained through a system of pipes laid in the ground

Storm sewer with point water intake

Point storm drainage channels

Linear water intakes

Structure of trays with gratings

The first type of water collectors is installed under the risers of an organized drainage system. The second type of water collectors is located under the slopes of roofs with unorganized drainage.

Water entering the catch basin moves through an open or closed pipeline. It is diverted either to a common catchment well or to a collector well, from which it moves to a centralized sewer network or a drain.

A storm inlet is a container for collecting water, equipped with outlets for connecting pipes of a linear drainage system. The devices are made of durable plastic or cast iron (+)

Elements storm system With point water collectors there are also drainage systems, ladders, and dampers. Some manufacturers provide the possibility of connecting rainwater inlets with roof gutters, as well as with underground drainage systems.

In addition, ready-made production models include sand traps and waste bins to simplify system maintenance.

The device with installed decorative grille should be located 3-5 mm lower than the level of the path or ground

This is a system of drainage gutters made of plastic or concrete, which are installed on the site in those places where water accumulation is most likely, but extremely undesirable.

For a drainage well, choose the most distant place from the house, well, or cellar. If there is a natural or artificial reservoir nearby, then water can be drained into it

When designing with linear water intakes, the first step is to plan the placement of a catchment or collector well. Next, determine the location of the rotary and inspection wells. Their placement will depend on the placement of stormwater inlets, gutters and closed sewer branches.

To prevent water from the street from entering the yard, gutters are installed along the line of the gate leading into the yard, garage doors, as well as in the wicket area. When choosing system elements that will be installed on the roadway, the future load on them is taken into account.

To prevent moisture from getting inside the building, the slope of the coating in the garage is made towards the water intake grille. So water, when washing a car or thawing snow on vehicle, will flow into the gutter.

Drainage trays must be installed on the porch, around the pool. They are also installed along the blind area, garden paths, laid out from facing material sites

To give the storm drain a neat appearance, special trays made of polymer concrete and plastic are used, which are covered with metal or plastic gratings. When entering the house, use a special tray to clean shoes.

The grate for the gutter installed near the pool is chosen to be plastic, white to avoid burns on a hot summer day.

For intensive use, drainage trays are mounted on a concrete base. The higher the load class on the roadway, the thicker the concrete base should be (+)

The gutters and water intake points are connected to the drainage tank. Inspection wells are provided at the junctions of gutters and pipes. They are designed to facilitate access to the system and clean it from possible clogging.

Inspection wells are made mainly of plastic. In order to receive required depth, their design provides for the possibility of extension using special extension elements.

The placement, slope and length of storm sewer pipes - all these characteristics are very individual and depend on many conditions on the site

A wide range of system elements allows you to design the most rationally, which will be optimal from a technical and financial point of view.

The main elements of linear drainage are gutters made of concrete, polymer concrete, plastic, point receivers, sand traps, gratings (+)

#3: Construction of closed drainage options

Underground, closed drainage is used if the installation of an open system will take up too much space on the land plot or it absolutely does not fit into the landscape picture of the territory. The conditions for constructing a closed drainage system are similar to those for organizing a network of open drainage ditches and ditches.

Closed drainage schemes are used to protect foundations and basements from the effects of groundwater and increase their service life. By analogy with open ones, they are used to drain suburban areas from excess groundwater.

It is imperative to organize underground drainage on the site if:

it is located in a lowland, wetland area;
there is a natural pond near the buildings;

Underground drainage can be divided into two types:

wall drainage;
trench (stratal) drainage.

Both types of underground drainage are carried out at the construction stage of the building. If it was decided to begin the problem of drainage after the construction of the house, then a trench ring system is used. There are also limitations to the use of trench drainage. It can be used if the house does not have a basement.

The fact is that, after filling the pit with sand or soil, it creates a looser environment between the bedrock and the foundation. As a result, high water penetrates into this environment and then even the presence of a clay castle does not protect the building from moisture.

Therefore, if the house has a basement floor, for effective drainage it is best to install wall drainage. It is used for drainage to drain groundwater directly from the foundation of a building, to protect basements, cellars, ground floors from flooding.

Trees and shrubs should not be planted near the drain. The distance to the planted tree can be at least two meters and to the bush at least one meter

The wall one limits the rise in water level, preventing it from rising above the line where the drainage pipes are located - drains. It is believed that a drainage pipe 1 m long is capable of draining an area of about 10-20 m2.

When installing wall drainage, the pipe is laid around the perimeter of the building. The depth of the drains cannot be below the base foundation slab or the base of the foundation. If the foundation is very deep, then laying the pipe slightly above its base is allowed (+)

The distance from the drainage pipe to the foundation depends on the location. They are laid in each corner (or through one corner) of the building, as well as in places where pipes turn and connect.

Inspection wells are also located in places where there is a large difference in the level of the site and when the pipes are long - the distance between the wells should be no more than 40 meters.

In an inspection well, the pipe cannot be solid; it breaks. This is done so that if the pipeline becomes clogged, it remains possible to flush it using a high-pressure hose

The entire system closes to the last well. It should be located in the lowest place. The water then flows into a regular sewer or open reservoir. If it is not possible to drain water from the house by gravity, then pumping equipment is installed and it is forcibly pumped out.

To ensure gravity drainage of water, the pipes are laid to the side of the collecting manifold. The slope should be two centimeters per meter of drainage pipeline. The depth of the pipe must be greater than the freezing depth of the soil.

The pipe is covered with drainage material - gravel, small crushed stone or sand. The minimum layer that will ensure the flow of water into the drain is 0.2 m

To save on geocomposite materials and prevent them from mixing with the soil, geotextiles are used. It freely passes water to the drains and at the same time retains particles that lead to silting. The pipe itself must also be wrapped in plastic before backfilling. protective material. Some drain models are produced with ready-made filters from geotextile.

You can increase the efficiency of wall drainage using a profiled polymer membrane, which can be two- or three-layer. One of its layers is a polyethylene film with formed protrusions, the second layer of the membrane is geotextile fabric.

The three-layer membrane is equipped with an additional layer of smooth polyethylene film. The membrane helps filter water from the soil while also serving as a waterproofing layer for the building's foundation.

Closed trench-type drainage protects the structure from flooding and moisture. It is a filter layer that is poured into a trench at a distance of 1.5-3 m from the wall of the house.

It is better that the depth of the drain be 0.5 m deeper than the base of the foundation - this way the water will not exert pressure on it from below. Between the trench with drainage and the foundation of the house there remains a layer of clay soil, which serves as a so-called clay castle.

As with the installation of a wall drainage system, drains are laid on a layer of gravel or small crushed stone. Both the pipes and the gravel layer are protected from clogging by geotextiles.

#4: Construction of wall drainage step by step

In order to get a clear idea of the process of installing drainage around a country house, let's look at an example. The area shown in it required the installation of a groundwater drainage system, because Under the soil-vegetative layer lie loams and sandy loams, which are extremely poorly permeable to water due to their low filtration capacity.

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To install drainage, we develop a trench around the house. Since the work was carried out with a mini-excavator, we retreated 1.2 m from the walls so as not to damage the building. If you save manually, you can do it closer. The bottom of the excavation is 20-30 cm below the foundation

The branches of the trench formed around the house must have a slope towards the common trench intended for the pipe for draining collected water to the collector well

Cover the bottom of the trench with sand. We compact it and form a slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter. We direct the slope towards the common trench, the bottom of which is also filled and tamped. In the case of communications crossing the trench, take into account that the drainage pipes must pass below them

We prepare drains, perforated polymer pipes, for installation in the trench. We wrap them in geotextile, which will prevent clogging of the system and filter groundwater

We cover the compacted bottom of the trench with a second layer of geotextile, pour gravel on it and lay drains

We lay channels for draining water from storm sewers and the drainage system in one trench. It is permissible to divert the water collected from them into one collector and use common inspection wells

Having wrapped the gravel backfill together with the drainage pipe with a second layer of geotectile, we fill the trench with quarry sand. We do not use the soil dumped during the development of the trench; sand will better allow water to pass through for collection by drainage

We bring the common trench to which the circular drainage is connected to the installation site of the collector well

Provide organized challenge drainage works are planned on the site, the implementation of which is planned at the design stage.

As a result, ground flows, underground inflow of groundwater, falling or melted precipitation fall into a specially equipped channel and are directed outside the courtyard of a country house.

Protect deep foundations, basements and basements, the channels of supply communications from flooding will be able to ring drainage of the house, working together with waterproofing and concrete pavement.

Design principles

Loamy soils do not allow water to pass through well, and it penetrates into the cavities around the building supports

To figure out how to properly make drainage around a house, one begins by studying the conditions of the location of the site and the results of its geological surveys.

You should not rely on the protective properties of waterproofing layers alone, since in the long term there are no ideal materials in which large quantities cycles of exposure there are no weak points.

Factors influencing the choice of design and combination various types drainage systems for a private house:

location on the ground, the possibility of the formation of storm flows from areas located higher on the slope;
seasonal fluctuations in groundwater level (at high levels, drainage around the house is necessary, including to prevent siltation of the sand and gravel cushion and, as a consequence, increase the heaving of the base);
soil composition (clays and loams do not allow water to pass through well, and it is directed into looser cavities near the load-bearing supports of the building; filling such spaces with clay increases heaving forces aimed at squeezing the foundation out of the ground);
position relative to reservoirs, flood rise of water;
average annual and maximum amount precipitation typical for the area;
building density on the site, depth of adjacent foundations;
coatings that prevent water from seeping into the soil, collecting it in streams along the surface (asphalt, concrete paths, sheds and roofs);
Discharge from a drainage system installed in a private house must also be directed to a ring drainage system (storm drain).

The design of the drainage system of a house is the creation of a calculated engineering system, taking into account the possible combination of various factors in their maximum values.

Types of drainage

Surface drainage consists of point receivers and an outlet system

You can visually imagine what a drainage system around a house is with your own hands by examining the main types of such structures, designed for specific drainage tasks.

They consist of a system of pipes (channels) for collecting water, located both on the surface and at the level of the foundation support.

Surface (storm) drainage of the site combines linear (trays) and point (grids) receivers of incoming water into a system.
Surface execution is also used in cases of diverting transit flows from adjacent territories beyond the boundaries of property.
Wall (foundation) closed drainage for a house is needed to drain groundwater and seeping water from the supporting structural parts of buildings and the foundations of courtyard structures.

They equip it after completing the main construction work on the site, before installing lawns and hard surfaces.

This system of perforated pipes receives water from the surrounding soil and is removed through collection wells, a storage manifold, and subsequent discharge into a nearby natural reservoir or general sewer system.

Methods drainage device can be:

An open type in the form of a ditch with a cross-section of 0.5×0.5 m is chosen for large areas (significant flows) in places where they do not interfere with movement. The main advantage is the simplicity and speed of work at low cost. On landscape areas Such channels drain the top layer of soil.
The closed-type drainage around the site is covered with plastic or metal gratings, which reduce the throughput, so the drainage tray is taken with a smaller cross-section. It is safe for pedestrians; installation of drainage channels is carried out in an intensively used small part of the yard. An example of what a closed drainage system looks like is shown in the figure.
The backfill drainage of the site is a channel filled with solid filler (small stone). A perforated pipe can be installed to speed up the drainage of liquid from the bottom of a concrete tray. To prevent siltation of the stone fraction, it is recommended to cover the bulk of the bulk material with geotextiles, leaving a small upper layer 5 – 10 cm to protect the canvas from mechanical damage. Periodically, retained dirt is removed by washing the crushed stone.
Deep drainage is used during construction on clay soils and areas with a high level of water content (in lowlands, next to a reservoir). The laid drainage depth around the house is 0.5 m below the base of the foundation. The beginning of drainage work coincides with the construction of the foundation - the drainage pattern around the house is taken into account in the marking of trenches/pits and excavation of the required amount of soil.

Each type of drainage work is different in labor intensity, but in terms of their characteristics, role in protecting buildings, and throughput, the types are not interchangeable options.

Components

Ditches must be dug at a slope

Correct installation drainage system around the house will require the presence of all components, calculation of the drainage system and compliance with installation rules.

Trenches are dug so that the ring drainage is obtained with the desired slope, using laser level(rangefinder).

The size of the slope may vary depending on the pipe capacity:

You can check the presence of a slope in the trench during the next heavy rain - streams of flowing water should be directed towards the well.

Geotextiles

Textile is a water filter that prevents large fractions from entering drainage pipes

The role of this material in installing drainage is to filter water from small impurities that clog the perforation holes of the pipes and litter the crushed stone.

Reducing the gaps reduces the possibility quick removal water from the area for which the ring drainage is designed.

The throughput of 1 layer of geotextile is given in technical specifications product, depends on the brand and is inversely proportional to strength:

It is placed under the pipes at the bottom of the trench and protects the entire bulk part so that the flow of water into the ring drainage outlet is not reduced. In dry sandy soils, protection with drainage pipes may not be used.

Pipe

Corrugated pipes are the most popular

The drainage system can be constructed from pipes that differ not only in Ø, but also in material.

When installing a drainage system, choose products that are not prone to corrosion, since repairing or replacing them is quite difficult.

For drainage installation around the site, choose pipes from the following range:

ceramic (fired clay);
asbestos-cement;
porous;
polymer (corrugated).

The most durable of them include asbestos-cement pipes; in other cases, polymer pipes are usually chosen for the device:

Perforation of drainage pipes is done during factory production or holes and cuts are made when installing the drainage of a private house with your own hands. The gravel fraction must be larger than the size of the holes.

Well

Wells are installed at a distance of 12 m from each other

The drainage calculation must include inspection wells for monitoring and cleaning the system.

They are located along the drainage system in increments of about 12 m.

Structurally, production can be made from stacked rings, the Ø of which allows you to clean silt deposits, or products industrial production presented in the table:

The ring drainage of the foundation of a private house can be assembled from pipes of various sizes with an increase in the Ø of the passage in the direction of movement of the collected flows. Several drainage pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm can be connected to the well. To learn how a deep drainage well works, watch this video:

Functionally, the well into which water flows from drainage pipes can be accumulating (with a sealed bottom) or absorbing (water gradually goes into the soil through a layer of crushed stone protected from silting by geotextiles).

Pricing

The approach to prices of a specialized company and the scope of work for the construction of wall drainage is divided into the categories “economy”, “standard”, “capital”, the total amount depends on the footage of the system.

In large companies (for example, United Company), services and prices for proper drainage around the house can have a wider range:

verified;
economical;
rational;
premium For more information on how to arrange drainage around the house, watch this video:

Qualified calculation of the characteristics of all necessary elements, the ability to carry out installation in compliance with technical specifications, in a short time frame the first time, imply not only rational use financial resources (with a guarantee from the company for 24 months), but also the service life of the selected system is up to 50 years.