Dismantling window slopes for siding. External slopes made of siding: how to make

After carrying out external insulation work, the question of cladding the building invariably arises to give it an aesthetic appearance and protect the insulation from adverse weather conditions.

In the vast majority of cases, the developer chooses siding for this purpose as the most practical material.

And if installing siding on the walls yourself is not so difficult, then finishing the windows raises many questions. This article explains this process in detail.

1. Giving an aesthetic appearance that will harmonize with the facade in a single color style, or, conversely, contrast more bright colors to add even more personality to your home.
2. Protection of the ends of the insulation “pie” from the external environment, its hydro- and vapor barrier.
3. Protection polyurethane foam from sun rays. This insulation is used when installing windows made of any materials in buildings for any purpose, but, due to its susceptibility to ultraviolet radiation, it needs protection from it.
4. Waterproofing slopes and the outer window sill of the window itself. Window openings are a weak point in outdoor waterproofing and cladding of the entire structure, competent finishing with siding will eliminate this problem and complete the creation of a single “protective shell” of the building.

Materials and tools necessary for work

When finishing the external slopes of a window, a standard set of tools is used, which was also used to finish the entire building with siding, namely:

1. Electric jigsaw or metal saw.
2. Metal scissors.
3. Screwdriver.
4. Hammer.
5. Corner.
6. Building level.
7. Cutter knife.
8. Self-tapping screws.
9. Transparent silicone sealant for exterior use.

Directly from materials, depending on the window configuration, you may need:

1. Metal profile for sheathing (in the presence of wide slopes).
2. G – profile, J – profile and H – profile.
3. Window and finishing strips.
4. Internal and external corner profiles.
5. Chamfer.
6. Low tide.

Attention! When installing the cladding window slopes it is necessary that all fasteners and components used are made from of stainless steel. It is also desirable that they be made by the same manufacturer as the siding with which the entire building is lined.

Features taken into account when carrying out work

1. When installing siding panels, it is necessary to leave a temperature gap of at least 5 mm between the joints to prevent warping and deformation of the material.
2. When attaching elements to the sheathing with self-tapping screws, there should be a gap of 0.5-1 mm between the head and the plane of the panel.
3. When using lathing made of wooden blocks, it is necessary to use dried wood, having previously treated it with an antifungal compound.
4. Self-tapping screws must be screwed in strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to the plane of the surface, and exactly in the middle mounting holes in siding panels.
5. If you use vinyl panels, you need to cut them at an angle of 45 degrees, then there will be no gaps at the corner joints when connecting two elements.
6. After cladding the slopes, all joints of the elements must be coated with transparent silicone sealant for external work. This will prevent moisture from entering under the cladding from the outside.
7. It is not advisable to join mounting strips if there is a shortage of material. This will make it worse appearance and will contribute to uneven thermal expansion, which will lead to surface deformation in hot weather.

Stages of work

Depending on the shape and width of the slopes, finishing is done differently and, accordingly, they are used various materials.

.

The window is flush with the wall.

This situation usually occurs in window cladding:

• industrial buildings,
• outbuildings,
• garages,
• hangars,
• residential buildings,

built in warm climatic zones, where there is no need for external insulation of the building, or internal insulation is used.

In this case, the work is the least labor-intensive and is used minimal amount material.

When carrying out work, a single J-profile with plastic platbands around the entire perimeter of the window.

Attention! InstallationJ – profile in this case, and, therefore, all work on window cladding must be carried out before cladding the facade of the entire building, since it is installed and secured under sheets of wall cladding material.

• The width of the window is accurately measured.
• The lower profile is measured according to the obtained dimensions, taking into account the protrusion in width by front side and sawed off at an angle of 45 degrees using electric jigsaw or hacksaws for metal. At the same time, along the middle planes of the profile, it is necessary to leave a margin of 2-3 cm on both sides, and make cuts along the edges exactly until the required length of the element is reached. The remaining segments are then bent vertically upwards, subsequently they will be closed by vertical slope strips.
• The element is preliminarily set strictly horizontally with the help of a level and fixed with self-tapping screws to the crate.
• The upper element of the cladding is cut out and fixed in the same way.
• After that, with an accuracy of half a millimeter, the vertical profile strips are measured and sawn off, also at an angle of 45 degrees. Here, there is no need to leave a margin on the middle planes, everything is done exactly in size.
• The slats are attached to the crate, while they must fit snugly against the surface of the window.
• Before attaching all four slopes, it is necessary to apply a layer of transparent to the window frame. silicone sealant for better waterproofing.

The window is recessed deep into the building at a distance of up to 19 cm.

This is the so-called European way of facing slopes. It is used if the insulation layer is small, up to 15 cm.

• First of all, it is necessary to install the ebb from the bottom of the window to the outer window sill. For this, if necessary, a crate of metal profile or wooden blocks. It is necessary to install at a slight slope from the window to the outside for better outlet precipitation. Under the crate it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing and, if necessary, insulation.
• The distance is measured along the outside of the future ebb, and it should be 2-4 cm greater than the width of the window opening, since the ebb should protrude slightly beyond it in width.
• The distance at the window itself is measured. A line is drawn according to the measurements obtained, but the metal is not cut off, but bent vertically upward.
• A layer of sealant or “liquid nails” must be applied to the window frame at the junction with the ebb.
• The finished element is placed in place and secured with self-tapping screws to the window frame and on the sides to the vertical sheathing through the bends.
• Next, it is attached to the frame around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. finish bar on the sides and top. It should fit snugly to the window profile and fit with the ebb.
• A window strip is used to cover the slopes themselves. The side elements are measured and cut to length, taking into account the protrusion required for the plant under the top bar. They can also be cut in width, depending on the width of the slope.
• Before installing the side and top strips, it is necessary to lay a layer of insulation and waterproofing under them, leading it under the siding sheets that cover the walls of the building.
• Outside, the side bar is fastened with screws to the elements of the crate, and from the side of the window it is inserted into the finishing bar. Moreover, if there was a need to reduce its width, then along the edge that will fit into the finishing strip, it is necessary to make perforation using a punch or manually. From below, the slope should be flush with the ebb, while covering the bent sides of the latter.
• The second slope is attached in the same way.
• The top element is installed last. It also represents a near-window bar. Its length on the outside should be greater than the width of the window opening by the width front side. Thus, it will lie on top overlapping the protruding ends of the side elements and is attached through them to the sheathing.
• All joints after installation are sealed with silicone sealant.

The window is recessed deeper into the facade by more than 19 cm.

This situation can arise if a thick layer of insulation is used in the external insulation of the house.

In this situation, siding elements are used, located horizontally between the finishing strip at the window and an element called the outer corner along the perimeter.

• The drainage system is installed in the manner described above.
• Along the perimeter window frame the finishing strip, or J - strip, is fixed.
• From the outside of the window opening, using self-tapping screws, the outer corner is attached strictly level to the sheathing.
• Between these elements, pieces of siding of the required length are laid and secured horizontally. In this case, it is necessary to remember the temperature gap of 5-6 mm.
• Upon reaching the top of the window, the siding element is cut to width, respecting the angle of the upper ebb.
• It is also necessary to carry out insulation and waterproofing procedures if necessary.

Cladding of arched windows.

It is carried out similarly to cladding using method No. 3, but in this case the finishing profile and the outer corner are cut so that they can be bent. The cuts are made carefully, every 5–10 cm.

The procedure for laying siding elements is similar to that described above.

Conclusion

Thus, with the necessary skill, materials and tools, observing necessary requirements at all stages of work, it is quite possible to carry out facing of window slopes with siding independently.

Using the necessary literature and instructions from the material manufacturer, this process can be completed in a short time.

The use of siding as finishing material for the facade of a private house is widespread due to its many positive qualities. Simplicity of installation allows you to install slopes on windows for siding without the involvement of specialists.

What is siding

Siding is more of an installation method than a name for the material.

The shape and texture of the siding imitates traditional wooden board small width. At the core modern material polyvinyl chloride is used, so the products have all positive traits PVC. The siding has a matte surface that is resistant to direct sunlight.

The material is available in a wide range of textures and colors

The color range is so diverse that you can choose a solution for any home. The ability to laminate the surface of vinyl planks allows them to be indistinguishable from natural wood. In this case, it is possible to decorate windows with siding yourself.

Positive qualities of siding

Modern vinyl siding consists of panels that are mounted overlapping, thereby providing natural ventilation façade, while protecting it from exposure environment. When finishing facades, metal and vinyl slats can be used, while the latter have less dead weight and have minimal load on the wall.

Therefore, installation of siding around windows is carried out using vinyl panels, which have the following positive qualities:

• the material of the panels is frost-resistant - it tolerates low temperatures and temperature changes well;
• The moisture resistance of the material reliably protects the facade from moisture penetration. Therefore, finishing windows with siding on the outside is a practical choice;
• dirt and dust can be easily washed off the surface of the material with a conventional soap solution;
• the material is wear-resistant and durable - it does not lose its performance throughout its entire service life;
• the surface of the siding has sufficient decorative effect and reliability of the outer coating, therefore it does not need to be painted;
• PVC does not rot and is not afraid of corrosion;
• This material is easy to process and install. During the work dust and construction debris are not formed;
• due to their low weight, the panels do not exert a significant load on the structure to which they are mounted.

Finishing a window with metal siding has been done for decades. It is not subject to corrosion due to the presence of a special polymer coating. Diversity color solutions allows you to select materials for any facades.

Metal siding stronger than PVC panels, but more expensive

Metal siding is not subject to combustion, it does not melt and does not contribute to the spread of fire in a fire.. The weight of such panels is significantly greater than PVC. The cost is also higher, but installing metal siding around the window is more profitable because... metal will last much longer than its PVC counterpart.

The basement of the building is finished with basement siding, which has increased strength characteristics.

Installation Requirements

There are several requirements that must be met when installing siding around a window.

• the fittings must be produced by the same manufacturer as the material itself, then color matching will be achieved and the installation process will be facilitated;
• to avoid the appearance of gaps between the panels when fastening them, it is recommended to make 45-degree cuts on the sides of the panels;
• to avoid the appearance of cracks, it is necessary to carefully measure the window opening;
  fasteners must have a galvanized surface, they must enter the panel at an angle of 90 degrees;
• When attaching PVC panels, it is necessary to take into account their possible expansion and contraction due to temperature changes, so it is necessary to leave a gap of 1.5 cm between the panels.

Subsystem

Duration of operation and quality of finish window openings depends on the quality of the components.

Finishing window openings with siding involves installing metal or wooden frame. A wooden frame will be cheaper, but a metal one will be more reliable and durable.

Metal profile subsystem

To make slopes from siding on a metal frame, you need to purchase the following materials:

UD profile - to calculate required amount, you need to add the perimeter of the window to the perimeter of the wall. For example, if the wall is 4 x 4 meters and the window on it is 1.5 x 1 m, then 4+4+4+4 = 16 m.p. profile will go to the wall and 1.5 + 1.5 + 1 + 1 = 5 m.p. will go to the window.
CD profile (stand-up). When calculating its quantity, the length of the surface must be divided by 0.6, since this element is installed every 60 cm, but this indicator also depends on the type of insulation.
A CD connector is purchased for building heights over 3 meters. The number of such elements depends on the number of docking nodes.
ES-bracket. It is used for attaching a CD profile. Using a U-shaped bracket, you can build a structure based on the building level.
Using hardware, UD profiles are attached. They are selected based on the wall material: self-tapping screws are used for aerated concrete and brick, and dowel screws are used for wood.
For fastening metal elements to each other, a “flea” hardware is used.

The structure of the frame is made on the basis of pre-made markings.

At this stage, work on waterproofing the facade is carried out. The method of fastening the frame elements is shown in the photo below.

Method of fastening frame elements

When constructing a metal frame for siding on a wall along its perimeter and around window and doorways fix the UD profile.

UD profile is fixed around the opening

Using a UD profile, a guide strip is mounted, and the siding is attached to metal frame occurs using a CD profile, the pitch of which depends on the width insulation material.

Siding panels are fixed to the frame using a CD profile

The UD profile makes the structure rigid and fixes the CD profile. Attach it to external wall it is possible with the help of the “crocodile” bracket, which exposes the frame based on the readings of the building level.

Wooden subsystem

Features of the construction of a wooden frame when installing slopes on windows for siding include the following nuances that you need to know about:

Standing profiles made of timber are calculated based on steps of 50 - 60 cm. Their height should be equal to the height of the building, since their length is difficult to increase.
Hardware is purchased taking into account a step of 40 cm per hardware.
If the moisture content of the wood exceeds 12%, then it is dried naturally under pressure in order to avoid the effect of “torsion” of the beams.

To increase the service life of wood, it is treated with various protective compounds..

Subsystem installation

To decorate the opening with siding on a wooden crate, horizontal rails are not required. Vertical guides must be installed in increments based on the width of the insulation material.

The pitch between the guides depends on the type of insulation

The starting strip is attached to the bars.

Setting the starting strip

Near the window openings, the beams are fixed in a horizontal position to ensure rigidity. The starting profile and other components, as well as the near-window bar, will be attached to the bars.

A horizontal bar is fixed along the upper edge of the window opening.

Preparation

Step-by-step instructions will tell you how to make slopes on windows with siding with your own hands.

Ways to install slopes from siding

Near-window installation of siding panels may have various features, depending on the depth of the window. The thickness of the wall is created by lathing, insulation and cladding. As a result, the window can be located in depth from 5 to 19 cm.

Positioning the window flush with the wall

This method is used when the window is located flush with the wall. In this case, the window opening is sheathed using an L-shaped apron.

Scheme for installing siding around windows

First, the window opening is treated with a sealant from below, then a strip is nailed onto the dowels. The rest of the strips are fixed in the same way, and the top one is sealed with an aluminum profile.

overlap

Siding will hide the gaps.

To the corner

The device is similar to the method described above, only there is a need to trim the top and side profiles at the bottom at 45 degrees, not forgetting the size of the thermal gap that must be closed.

Window openings with slopes

When finishing the facade plastic siding you can make slopes from the same material.

Along the contour of the window opening, covered with window siding, a J-profile is installed, into which the trim is inserted.

J-profile lead into the skin

Then we install starting strips for the plastic lining along the perimeter of the window opening, while maintaining its strict geometric position.

Starting strips are installed along the perimeter of the window opening

Using a square, the outer starting strip is placed on the surface of the window profile, taking into account the location of the slope finishing relative to the profile at 90 degrees. The marks must be connected while simultaneously checking the perpendicularity of the starting bar. Using a level we connect all the marks.

The marks are connected using a level

Based on the drawn lines, the side and top dimensions are removed.

The starting strips are cut based on the obtained dimensions, cutting their ends at 45 degrees. Install internal starting bars. Fastening is carried out along the inner perimeter directly to the window frame.

Then measure the distance from the outer bar to the inner one at the top of the opening. The corner is cut at 45 degrees.

Corner cut at 45 degrees

Install the corner on the top of the slope.

Installation of the corner

Plastic fragments are installed in the starting bars.

When the entire house is already covered with siding, the windows should not stand out. They also need to be beautifully sheathed so that the look is complete and complete.

Types of siding for windows

There are two types of siding for window framing: vinyl and metal.

Of the two, vinyl is the most popular.
And this is due to a number of factors:

1. Less weight
2. Affordable price
3. Does not allow moisture to pass through
4. Easy to clean
5. Durable when used correctly.
6. Aesthetic and neat.

Whereas metal siding boasts a long service life.

Given that it is installed on the outside of the wall, it is deliberately covered with a layer of plastic.

However, it is easy to create on plastic various kinds reliefs. Including repeating the shape of the wood.

Tools that may be useful for window framing

1. Screwdriver and attachments for self-tapping screws.
2. Metal scissors.
3. Knife for cutting vinyl siding. Basically, it doesn't cut. They draw a line along the siding, and then break off the outer piece.
4. Hammer.
5. Tape measure, rulers and angle ruler.
6. Laser or water level.
7. Chalk for marking.

All profiles and fasteners are best purchased immediately with the rest of the siding.

Because then you can not guess with the color. If the windows stand out a little, it's not so bad. But it’s visible.

We create a drawing, and mark the following points on it:

• Width under frame
• Slope width
• Window frame parameters
• External sides of slopes

After calculations, add another 15% of the length of all materials for cuts and folds.

Installation features

1. Self-tapping screws must be made of stainless steel or galvanized.

2. Self-tapping screws must be screwed in only at a right angle.

3. By screwing in a self-tapping screw, the cap does not need to be sunk into the material. Since this is an external design, it should play a little. Otherwise, it will come off under the influence of the wind.

4. If you plan to install a low tide, it must bury all the screws with the side part.

5. Slopes from 20 cm are made out with a j-profile, tiles and outer corners at the edge of the recess.

6. In Europe, windows are sunk to a depth of 20 cm. For these, a special window strip is used, the edge of which is hidden by the finishing profile.

7. If the window is flush with the wall, it is decorated with siding, casing or j-profile.

8. When making an arch, a j-profile is also used. Often in plastic version- for smooth bending.

Preparation of slopes for the window

If there are cracks or holes, they must be plastered. If this is not done, the finish will then fall off.

You also need to coat them with a deep penetration primer so that they do not absorb moisture from the air.

Before installing the sheathing, you need to calculate where the batten will be. It can be located vertically or horizontally.

Depending on how the panels and profiles will be located on the slope.

1. Measure the bottom of the frame

2. Set aside a distance on the platband equal to its width. From it measure a distance equal to the bottom of the frame. And also another segment equal to the width of the casing.

3. Cut off 45 degree corners on both sides and cut off the front side.

4. The side panels go through the same procedure.

5. The top bar remains intact.

9. You can alternate platbands and j-profile.

1. The lower part of the frame is measured.

2. The width of the slope under the window is measured.

3. The vinyl material is cut according to the measurements obtained.

4. The iron casting is removed a little from the sides so that it is equal to the width of the slope.

5. The sections on both sides of the ebb are bent.

6. Liquid nails are poured onto the frame where the ebb will be.

7. The ebb is installed by screwing it to the vertical walls through the bends.

8. We do the same with the upper part.

10. Panels of side and external slopes are installed in the j-profile.

11. The outer side of the slopes is hidden in a corner.

You can also sheathe the slope horizontally.

The upper and lower parts are along the slope of the low tide and the upper part of the slope.

Video - Covering a window with siding

There are many options for facing a house, one of which is finishing the windows with siding on the outside. This process does not require special skills and can be done independently. The work is carried out in conjunction with the installation of the main covering. The main thing is to correctly select and install additional elements taking into account the specific situation.

To frame any opening, several main types of material can be used:

1. Vinyl. This siding is made from a mixture of PVC and special additives and is very popular. This is due to the excellent qualities of the products, including resistance to precipitation, temperature changes and low weight. The undoubted advantage of the product is affordable price, which is significantly lower than other species. When choosing plastic material take into account that products often found on sale are made from recycled PVC and are characterized by low performance properties.
2. Metal. This variety surpasses the previous version in many respects: the metal siding surface has better resistance to ultraviolet radiation, which significantly increases the durability of the coating, the material imitates the wood structure well and is classified as fireproof. The disadvantages include a higher price and the possibility of corrosion in damaged areas.
3. Wood. This siding is also suitable for decorating openings. The cladding has an excellent appearance. Disadvantages: high cost and the need to apply a protective and decorative coating, since the production treatment gradually wears off.

In theory, metal and plastic slopes can be mounted on any siding, but in practice it is desirable that the slope material and the siding material match

Can be used for home decoration different kinds materials: wall (facade) and basement, having different decorative coating. Each option is suitable for framing a window or doorway.

Tools and materials

All processes for lining openings are carried out with your own hands, so they are used for work available tools available to every home master:

• Screwdriver. This device can be replaced with a drill with the ability to control the speed.
• Grinder, scissors and metal saw. Trimming parts will require care, so it is advisable to provide electric and hand tools.
• Level.
• Measuring devices. Square, tape measure, ruler.
• A mallet and a simple hammer.
• Bits, drills and hardware.

The same set of tools is used to install all types of siding

To veneer a window in a private or country house, you will need additional elements:

• finishing profile and starting bar;
• clypeus (narrow or wide);
• J-profile;
• internal and external corner;
• low tide;
• arched flexible J-profile.

All tools and components are prepared in advance, this will avoid delays during work.

Vinyl siding has the widest range of accessories for finishing windows, so it is easier to work with this material

Basic requirements for the design of slopes

In order to do everything correctly, you should consider some recommendations:

Everything must be done correctly, because any defects that arise during the work will lead to undesirable consequences.

How to sheathe a window with siding

To veneer the opening without errors, the process is carried out in stages.

Preparation

Step by step steps:

1. If required, then window design changes in advance.
2. While working on the wall, the condition of the opening is assessed, and any defects identified are eliminated.
3. A significant disadvantage of old slopes is delamination, so it is recommended to completely remove the previous layer. If it played the role of insulation, then the installation of thermal insulation material will be required.
4. Treatment with antiseptic drugs is mandatory.
5. The protruding polyurethane foam is cut off. Such areas need to be sealed: special insulation is laid around the perimeter of the window frame to prevent the penetration of cold and heat loss.

Before installing the window, all cracks should be puttied or filled with foam, and then the perimeter of the structure should be treated with an antiseptic.

Important! The structure must be completely dry.

Lathing device

To frame the windows on the facade of the house with siding, a frame is arranged in advance. Instructions for its construction:

1. The marking of the surface and separately sections along the perimeter of the opening is carried out.
2. Racks are set according to the markup.
3. Window cladding is being done. Frame parts for reliability are fixed in common system battens.
4. If the structure is deeper than 20 cm and has a wide joint of foam around the frame, then it is advisable to install the frame along the entire perimeter of the slopes in increments equal to the width of the siding. Insulation can be placed in the resulting cells.
5. For wide slopes, a separate rail is installed around the inner perimeter of the opening around the frame. It is needed for installing the J-profile.

The result should be a fully framed structure with appropriate rigidity.

It will be easier for a non-professional craftsman to work with wooden crate, But metal version is considered to be much more reliable, and most importantly – more durable

Window design without slopes

To decorate the area around the window with siding in the absence of slopes, perform the following steps:

1. Platbands are being prepared. They are a U-shaped design, on inside which the mounting holes are located. The panel slides directly into the unlocking part. The simplest and in an inexpensive way arrangement of windows located flush with the facade is to use a J-profile or finishing strip, but the appearance of such a finish is rather mediocre

   On a note! Some manufacturers have a more complex configuration of the casing. To install it, a starting profile is attached to the outer part of the window, which serves to fix the cladding element.

2. The size of the opening is determined. It should be taken into account that the parts will be attached end-to-end at an angle of 90 degrees.
3. The lower element is mounted without trimming the front part, but with trimming the tongues. Its dimensions should be larger than the opening, taking into account the width of the two side parts.
4. The upper part is measured. It is made with beveled edges. The front part is cut exactly at 45 degrees, and the bottom remains solid or is slightly beveled. End tabs must be made, bent towards the side fragments.
5. Vertical parts are cut to size, taking into account the allowance for the top and bottom panels.
6. The upper section of the side posts is cut in the center to immerse the end part of the upper part with the tongue.
7. The lower edge of the front part is cut at an angle; it will overlap the lower part.
8. Collecting cash. Fixation is carried out through mounting holes on the outer part.

The sheathing panels are inserted under the platband, creating a single plane with protruding sections of the openings.


Narrow window profile it looks beautiful, but the installation technology of such fittings is more complicated than when using a finishing strip or J-profile

Beveled window frame

To frame a window with slopes more than 20 cm deep, siding is used; for smaller sizes, it is recommended to use a window trim.

Step-by-step instructions for finishing windows with siding with your own hands:



Metal and plastic fittings on deep windows are mounted in the same way

Although this is a complex method involving the use large quantity additional elements, it allows you to achieve durability and reliability.

On a note! It is more difficult to finish a window in the shape of an arch. To get around this design, a special bending J-profile is used, cut to the desired bend.

Features of finishing doorways

The front door of a private house or cottage also needs to be framed with siding. Although the procedure is almost identical, there are some differences:

• The simplest option is to move the iron frame with external architraves into the same plane as the facade. In this case, the panels are mounted under the protruding fragment of the frame.
• With slopes less than 5 cm, you can use the usual overlay corner: they frame the entire perimeter with trimming at the corner joints.
• Deep slopes can be made by placing the siding vertically or horizontally, taking into account the frame.

Upon completion of the work, all joints are sealed. For these purposes, compositions matching the color of the cladding are used.

Still have questions? Watch this video.

Today's choice of finishing materials is incredibly diverse. One of them is siding - window slopes with such cladding will acquire a magnificent appearance and excellent performance characteristics. Therefore, we will discuss how to implement this option on our own.

Why cover window slopes with trim?

Sooner or later, we may be faced with replacing windows - mostly this is a forced necessity, but sometimes it’s just our whim. In general, the reasons are completely unimportant, the main thing is that the result is the same - the decorative finishing of the slopes is disrupted. Many may believe that it is not necessary to restore it immediately, because it is only a matter of aesthetics. However, it is worth considering that the appearance of both the window and the entire facade of the building as a whole is certainly transformed.

But besides this, finishing slopes is mandatory for a number of reasons. For example, their integrity is as important for the thermal insulation of the house as the quality of the windows themselves. After all, if it is violated, then cold air will penetrate into the room, drafts will appear. In addition, do not forget that the polyurethane foam that is blown between window frame and opening, is destroyed under the influence of the sun's rays. Therefore we need additional protection For this purpose, various materials are used, including siding.

Is siding suitable for window slopes?

So, what exactly is this facing material? The title translates as " external cladding". People in Russia first started talking about it not so long ago, about twenty years ago. It is a solid type-setting panels of a certain shape. In addition, siding is also the name given to the process of cladding a building with the same material.

Siding can be wood, vinyl, ceramic, aluminum, steel or cement. Each of them has advantages over other types and, naturally, disadvantages. The same variety awaits you in the choice of color; its palette is simply amazing in the number of shades - even the most picky client will be able to choose an option to his liking.

However, in addition to a fairly extensive color range this material has a number of other advantages - for example, you will be pleased with its excellent resistance to various chemical substances and weather conditions. Also, the siding is fireproof, does not emit toxic fumes, does not fade and is not afraid of temperature changes. After such finishing, the sheathed surface still “breathes”. It is very unpretentious in operation, and the installation of such facing material it cannot be attributed to complex ones, which is why the decoration of window slopes with siding is so relevant today.

An indisputable advantage is its strength, so that it can withstand moderate mechanical loads quite adequately. Rodents and termites are indifferent to it, so there is no need for additional processing. As the manufacturers promise, this sheathing material is able to retain its original shape and color for as long as fifty years. In addition, it can be classified as a dielectric.

There are also disadvantages. Firstly, some types, for example, the same vinyl siding, are prone to thermal expansion. Usually it is only a few millimeters, but if mistakes were made during installation, the coating may ripple or even crack. Secondly, he is still afraid of significant shock loads. And thirdly, the highest quality products have a relatively high cost.

Finishing slopes with siding - instructions

So, we looked at how important it is to monitor the condition of window openings, and learned a little about cladding material. Now let's get acquainted with how to make external slopes from siding with your own hands.

How to finish window slopes with siding - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Material calculation

So, in addition to the panels themselves, there are also a variety of components that will greatly facilitate the work. For example, a special profile is attached along the perimeter of window slopes. Its length is 3 meters. Please note that it is very problematic to join the cuttings of this element; the seam will be obvious, which will greatly spoil the appearance of the entire building, and not just the window opening. You will also need a finishing bar, which is attached to the top and sides of the window frame. Ebbs and a J-profile are also purchased, with the help of which the corners are installed, if any are needed. In general, we take the necessary measurements (length, width and depth of the opening) and purchase material in accordance with them.

For all the figures obtained, take a margin of 10%, sometimes during the work something deteriorates, breaks, and trimming may also be necessary.

Step 2: Picking a Tool

This issue can be resolved quite easily, since every owner has the necessary things in stock. We will need a screwdriver, a hammer, a square, a level, a jigsaw, or Circular Saw(if neither one nor the other is available, then you can use an ordinary hacksaw or metal scissors, only in this case the quality of the cut will be much worse). You will also need a tape measure and a pencil, and do not forget to stock up on enough screws.

Step 3: Surface Preparation

In general, there is nothing new at this stage - slopes for siding are prepared in the same way as for any other decorative finishing. It is necessary to cut off excess foam, remove dust, dirt and other debris.

Step 4: Installation of drainage systems

These elements should be fastened first; their importance is quite difficult to underestimate, since they protect the installation seam, plus they also play the role of sound insulation. So, their fixation is carried out as follows. As with, these elements should protrude slightly from the wall (no more than 10 cm) and from the ends, so their edges are trimmed and bent in such a way as to create small borders. Next, a small amount of mounting foam is applied to the ledge, the ebb itself is pushed close under the frame and fastened with self-tapping screws. Please note, that it is necessary to maintain a slope from the window so that the water flows, as expected, onto the ground, and not towards the window. To prevent the foam from lifting it, you should place some heavy object on its surface and leave it there until the foam dries completely.

We start the side profiles under the top bar, this will provide more reliable protection. In order for the docking to have an aesthetic appearance, the protrusions should be trimmed top bar at an angle of 45°. The lower tongues of the sides can be joined either close to the ebb, or lowered a little lower. The siding strips themselves are strung from bottom to top on each other using a tongue-and-groove system. If the latter does not fit on top, it must be cut off.

The work is done. Thus, if you choose siding as a finishing material, the installation of window slopes is not difficult, and even an amateur can cope with such a task.