Lavender: growing a fragrant and healing plant in your summer cottage. Everything about growing lavender: sowing, care, pests. Lavender: planting and care in open ground, types and varieties

The world of flora is surprisingly diverse and variable. It combines with amazing organicity a variety of plants and many varieties of even the same crops. Lavender, which is represented by three dozen species, deserves special attention. In nature, this bright bush can be found in Australia, India, the Canary Islands, Arabia, southern Europe, North and East Africa. Simple planting and care of lavender makes it very attractive to a huge number of gardeners.

French type of lavender

No less common is french lavender in the garden: planting and caring for this crop is not particularly difficult. However, it is worth considering that compared to the previous version, this variety is more finicky and capricious. Visually, the broad-leaved group is practically no different from the English variety. But often its inflorescences are somewhat shorter.

Most often, it is French lavender that is grown on the balcony: planting and caring for this potted crop has certain characteristics, but in general there are no problems here. The plant is characterized by amazing beautiful flowers. The range of their shades is amazingly wide and includes such colors as:

• pink;
• lilac;
• green;
• burgundy;
• purple;
• white.

The attractiveness of this variety lies in the fact that it begins to bloom much earlier than its other “relatives”. Already in April and May, this lavender begins to smell fragrant. In the summer you can take the plant out into the garden.

Features of the narrow-leaved variety

It is impossible not to make a reservation that there is lavender Angustifolia (Lavandulaangustifolia). This is a narrow-leaved variant, which is essentially a perennial evergreen subshrub. The flower is quite unpretentious. It is frost-resistant, which allows it to be actively grown in various regions. Moreover, this option can be cultivated in pots or tubs, which are removed indoors for the winter. For flower growers, this lavender is of particular value.

Among other features of this culture, it is worth noting the absence of a central stem. The bush is represented by a combination of several shoots. Sometimes their number reaches 400. Angustifolia lavender has a lot of features: planting and caring for this plant is also characterized by a number of nuances. The root system of the flower is superficial. It is located very close to the top of the ground. It can be called highly branched, dense and quite rough. The leaf blades of this group of lavender are elongated and narrow. They are a rich green hue. The edges of the leaves are slightly bent.

Lavender Munstead

Original Munstead Lavender is another representative of this group. This variety is considered narrow-leaved. This crop blooms in July and August. The perennial, formed in the form of a subshrub, is distinguished by the presence of fibrous and woody roots, numerous shoots, linear and opposite leaves. The shade of the plates is greenish-silver with gray tints. Plus they have a gentle and light pubescence. The height of the grass reaches 60 cm. This crop produces blue or bluish-lilac buds, collected in spike-shaped inflorescences.

Lavender Southern

This group also includes other varieties, for example, lavender angustifolia Yuzhanka, which requires the creation of certain conditions for successful cultivation. As for the description of the culture, this variety is distinguished by its small height. Usually the perennial does not grow higher than 60 cm.

The attractiveness of the plant lies in the fact that it exudes a refined aroma.

Lavender Yuzhanka is very popular: planting and caring for this plant has a number of features. So, it is recommended to plant grass in sunny areas that are well protected from winds and drafts. The flower prefers light soils. But the main requirement of Yuzhanka comes down to receiving a sufficient amount of ultraviolet radiation. In order for the variety to actively develop and bloom, the daylight hours must be at least 6 hours.

Southern lavender is not the only one included in the group of narrow-leaved varieties. Among other representatives of this species, it is worth noting the following varieties:

1. Ellagance;
2. Rosea;
3. Munsted;
4. Hidcote;
5. Stepnaya;
6. Alba;
7. Record, etc.

Lavender Voznesenskaya 34

Among other plants of this species, lavender angustifolia Voznesenskaya 34 deserves attention, since it is widely used in folk medicine. The plant allows you to lift your spirits and relieve emotional overload. This fragrant perennial has honey-bearing and spicy-aromatic properties. The flower is medicinal, as evidenced by its antispasmodic and antiseptic properties. The variety, represented by a spherical bush with lilac-violet inflorescences, is used for medicinal baths, improving appetite, and for neuralgia and bronchitis.

Variety of varieties and the most beautiful options

It is worth understanding the variability of this plant and its characteristics. different varieties. The Blue Space lavender deserves special attention, because it is not only attractive appearance, but also has healing properties.
This herbaceous plant, related to perennials. The height of these flowers varies from 30 to 35 cm. Their stems are branched. The attractiveness of this type is that it is suitable for:

• cuttings for summer bouquets;
• designing winter flower arrangements;
• decorating areas.

Plus Blue Space is an excellent natural antiseptic. The herb is prescribed for neurasthenia and headaches. This type of lavender is grown from seeds: planting and caring for the flower are standard.

Lavender Butterfly and Victory

Another common solution is Butterfly lavender, which is known to gardeners for its original appearance. Fragrant flowers visually resemble butterflies. The height of this subshrub is 30 cm. This plant begins to bloom very early. Already in mid-April, buds are formed, which persist until July, and in the second half of summer a second flowering may begin.

Another popular solution is Victory lavender, an essential oil perennial. It can grow up to 1 meter. The bush is quite spreading. Lanceolate-type leaf plates are formed on it. Their grayish tint goes well with unusual inflorescences in the purple spectrum. The attractiveness of this variety lies in its rich and fairly persistent aroma. Plus Victory is not afraid of frost and drought.

Lavender Delight

Uslada lavender deserves special attention, as it has some attractive features. It's fragrant and very beautiful plant evergreen type. The perennial grows up to 60 cm in height. This is a subshrub, which by its nature is a wonderful honey plant. The bush itself is compact and highly branched. The plant blooms in late July.

The flower feels best in sunny and fairly dry areas. Lavender is planted with seeds: growing and caring for this variety is based on the basic requirements of the culture. This type of lavender can be used as:

1. soothing composition;
2. seasoning;
3. moth repellent;
4. element of perfume composition;
5. choleretic drug;
6. remedy for neuralgia and rheumatic pain.

Lavender Mini Blue and Hidcote

Another option is lavender Mini Blue with inflorescences of blue color. The height of the bush does not exceed 30 cm. The perennial subshrub is distinguished by the presence of linear and opposite leaves. This plant is grown in fresh and dry soil. The soil should be sandy-clayey, gravel and well permeable to moisture. It’s great if the substrate contains lime and nutrients in moderation. Grass grows and develops well in warm, sunny and even hot places. But this variety is quite sensitive to frost.

Another variety is Hidcote lavender: planting and caring for this narrow-leaved option is essentially no different from cultivating other similar herbs. Hidcote Blue is a compact variety. This perennial is grown as a framing element of plant compositions. It looks no less elegant and elegant along the paths. The attractiveness of this variety lies in its unique decorative properties. Even Hidcot's leaf blades have a greenish-silver tint. Bluish inflorescences form in mid-summer and dilute the rich aroma.

Some features of growing lavender

Any perennial lavender can be grown quite simply: planting and caring for it is not anything extremely complicated, the main thing is to plant the plant correctly.

This process is quite responsible. It is better not to move adult individuals from place to place, since they tolerate changing areas extremely poorly. If you have to do this, then you should replant the grass with a large earthen clod. It is recommended to leave quite a lot of space between neighboring plants, and the interval should be approximately equal. This will allow you to achieve a full and slender fit.

Planting lavender on the site

Among other features of this process, it is worth noting the possibility of planting crops not only with seeds, but also with cuttings. Moreover, the second option is preferable, since in this case the flowers take root better. The algorithm for doing the job is extremely simple. The bushes only need to be deepened into loose soil a couple of centimeters. Then they are covered with film. They need to be watered systematically. Rooted specimens are transplanted to the required area.

Soil requirements

Garden lavender is not difficult to cultivate: planting and caring for it involves watering, fertilizing, loosening, and weeding. The flower does not like dense soils, since the root system of the plant is demanding of high-quality air circulation. Weeding and loosening should be done regularly. You can also form a dense layer of mulch. To do this, use multi-colored decorative substrates or rotted foliage. The main thing is to leave the soil open near the base of the trunk to prevent rotting.

Rules for watering lavender

Before you see lavender, you will, of course, smell its intoxicating scent, which spreads far beyond the boundaries of your flowerbed. And although someone may say that the flowering of this culture is not as beautiful as, for example, the flowering of a rose or lily, lavender has a unique charm and reminder of steppe grasses, which so attracts many gardeners and they no doubt give it to the fragrant perennial square meters in their areas.

So, elegant lavender. This perennial, which has thin pointed leaves and blooms in the summer with spike-shaped inflorescences. The voluminous bushes of lavender always remain green – for 9-11 years of the plant’s life. Lavender blooms for a very long time: as soon as you cut off the faded inflorescences, it immediately produces new ones.

Inflorescences can have different shades. Landscape designers very often plant lavender so that the flowerbed has gradient transition colors - from white to rich purple and pink.

The plant is completely unpretentious in care: it tolerates drought, hardly gets sick, does not need garter - it will delight you and does not require complex agrotechnical procedures. It's enough just:

• loosen the soil regularly;
• remove weeds;
• water;
• trim bushes after flowering;
• properly prepare for wintering.

Lavender loves warmth, so it develops well only in regions where summers are quite long and winters are not too harsh. Therefore, in the northern regions, the crop is not planted in open ground, but it can be grown at home in an ordinary flower pot. Or plant it in tubs and, in case of cold weather, bring it from the garden to the terrace or balcony.

Lavender is a honey plant: its aroma is attractive to bees and various butterflies. But at the same time it repels harmful insects, so damage to bushes by them is extremely rare.

How is lavender used?

Most likely what you know: lavender is not only ornamental plant. First of all, this is an essential oil culture, an extract ( essential oil) from which it is actively used in cosmetology, aromatherapy and medicine. Lavender oil is used to treat joint pain, burns and skin diseases. Lavender oil is also recommended for people prone to headaches, and especially migraines.

Many massage specialists always use aromatic lavender ether for a relaxing procedure.

The inflorescences themselves are also used as a spice: they are added in small quantities to first and second courses, salads and sauces. The calming properties of lavender added to tea are widely known: a cup of aromatic drink relieves stress and insomnia, and restores peace of mind.

Therefore, if you have planted lavender bushes at your dacha, collect its flowers as soon as they bloom (during this period they concentrate the maximum of substances useful to humans), dry them outdoors in the shade and place in fabric bags. If you need to have a good rest and take your mind off your worries, put this bag under your pillow and your sleep will be like that of a baby.

Popular varieties and types of lavender

In total, biologists identify just over 30 varieties of lavender. They differ in the color and shape of the inflorescences, the height of the bush, the structure and color of the leaves.

Let's look at the most popular types of this crop and how you can grow lavender in your country house.

The lavender is real. You can also hear about it under the names “English”, “narrow-leaved”, “medicinal”, “spikelet”. This is what specialist breeders have in mind when they talk about lavender. The English lavender shrub is quite voluminous: it reaches 1 m both in height and width. The height of the peduncle of this variety is about 80 cm. True lavender blooms in June-July with small flowers collected in brushes.

The type of lavender officinalis includes different varieties, among which there are dwarf ones (for example, “Little Lottie” and “Nana Alba”), as well as plants with different shades of inflorescences:

• white – “Alba” variety;
• blue - “Beechwood Blue”;
• pink - “Rosea”;
• purple - "Gem" and "Hidcote".

Lavender broadleaf. This species is distinguished by a very strong aroma, and also by the fact that 3 inflorescences appear on one stem of the plant at once.

Dutch lavender. The plant is also called “hybrid lavender” or “Lavandin”. Hybrid lavender was developed by Dutch breeders based on English and broadleaf lavender. The culture has received high decorative qualities: long inflorescences, large flowers. The bushes themselves reach a width of 2 meters. This variety is considered late: the plant blooms only in July.

Dutch lavender is very popular in the parks and gardens of southern Europe. IN middle lane In Russia it lands less frequently due to its instability to low temperatures.

If you still decide to choose this particular type of crop, pay attention to the stunningly beautiful varieties:

• lilac – variety “Grosso”;
• pink – “Sawyers”;
• blue – “Arabian Night”;
• purple – “Richard Gray”.

Jagged Lavender. Very interesting decorative look: has silver carved leaves and large flowers. The bush itself is quite compact (only 30 cm in height), charming with its bright flowers. IN open ground feels good in the southern regions, and in the middle zone it can be grown as a houseplant.

French lavender. This species is planted in open ground, because the bushes are quite tall (up to 1.3 m) and voluminous. The leaves of this variety of lavender are large, and the flowers, on the contrary, are small, arranged in small inflorescences. Landscape designers often choose this type of lavender to decorate hedges or create a flowering corridor along paths.

Lavender: choosing a planting site and preparing the soil

To ensure that the crop pleases you with flowering and feels great, before choosing a variety for planting, find out which one the breeders recommend for your region. It is better to immediately choose a crop adapted to the desired temperature and humidity than to treat the plant later.

Young lavender bushes are often planted in the spring, when there are no longer night frosts on the soil surface. However, if you live in the southern region, you can plant in the fall (40-50 days before the onset of frost): the mild winter of southern latitudes cannot harm the young plant.

The place for planting lavender must be chosen carefully: the culture loves well-lit sun rays plots. It is in the sun that lavender will bloom in full force, but once in the shade, the plant will bloom sparingly and for a short time.

It is also necessary to take into account the level of soil moisture: if broad-leaved lavender somehow tolerates excess moisture, then narrow-leaved lavender will immediately begin to hurt. The place is not suitable for lavender if:

• the area is swampy;
• groundwater is too close to the surface.

When it is not possible to find a dry area, but you really want to plant lavender, gardeners build artificial earthen embankments with a drainage layer and then plant bushes on a hill.

Popular varieties of angustifolia lavender, planting and caring for which require greater vigilance from the gardener, are sensitive to soil acidity and its structure. Therefore, before placing the plant in a permanent place, add lime or wood ash– this will reduce the acidity level to optimal.

Any variety of lavender develops well in sandy loam alkaline soil with average fertility.

Planting lavender in open ground

So, you bought a young seedling and chose for it best place Location on. It's time to start planting:

1. Place the plant in water and leave it for 60-90 minutes. This will prepare the roots for early rooting.
2. Do raised beds(20-40 cm).
3. Cut off the top of the bush - this will give the plant an incentive to quickly develop new shoots.
4. Remove the lower branches and leaves completely.
5. Also remove excess roots if the bush has too many of them.
6. On average, the depth of the planting hole for lavender should be 30 cm.
7. Leave at least 30 cm between bushes (this is enough for compact varieties), maximum 1.2 m (for tall bushes). Experienced gardeners They believe that the distance between bushes should be equal to the height of an adult bush of a given variety. But if you are thinking about how to grow lavender so that the bushes create a thick “carpet,” cut this distance in half.

Lavender propagation

You can grow lavender in several ways: from seeds, cuttings or layering. It all depends on whether you have a strong plant ready to divide or are just dreaming of planting lavender in your garden for the first time.

How to grow lavender from seeds

Planting lavender seeds is not the easiest process. Resort to it if you do not have the opportunity to purchase a young plant for planting.

Before planting, lavender seeds must undergo stratification - exposure to low temperatures. The procedure will help increase the immunity of the future plant, which will protect it during wintering or in case of sudden temperature changes.

Stratification can be carried out in two ways:

1. Natural. To do this, the seeds are planted in open ground in the fall (around the end of September). Then, after overwintering, the plant will receive the necessary immunity. However, this method is only suitable for southern countries and regions. In the middle zone with autumn planting the seeds will simply die, and you won’t get any germination in the spring.
2. Artificial. It's very simple: mix the seeds with sand in a small container, wrap it in a bag and place it in the bottom drawer of the refrigerator (vegetable drawer). Seeds should be kept in the refrigerator for at least 1.5 months.

Artificial stratification should be carried out in the fall, so that in the middle of winter you can move on to planting in boxes or pots. Prepare the soil and plant the seeds in it. For 7-10 days, cover the boxes with glass or film and place them in a dark place. Don't forget to water the seedlings (but don't flood them).

When sprouts appear, you can move the box to a bright and warm place ( optimal temperature+15 - +22 o C). Here the young lavender will develop and grow stronger until spring. When warm weather sets in and the soil warms up, the plants can be moved to permanent place in the garden.

However, you should not expect flowering this year. The crop will need the entire season to develop the root system and increase leaf mass.

How to plant lavender from cuttings

Cuttings are considered the simplest and effective way propagation of lavender bushes of any variety. The procedure is no different from cuttings from other crops:

• Use a sharp knife to cut off the one-year-old woody shoot;
• cut it into cuttings;
• prepare suitable soil;
• deepen the cuttings 2-3 cm into the ground;
• cover the seedlings with film, creating a greenhouse;
• Water the plants regularly.

The cuttings will take root quickly. After this, all that remains is to transplant the lavender to the chosen place in the garden, following the planting pattern.

Reproduction of lavender bush by layering

This method of rooting a plant branch will not cause difficulties even for the most inexperienced gardener. At the beginning of summer, a shoot from an adult bush is bent to the ground (not cut), placed in a hole and sprinkled with soil. Only the tip of the shoot remains on the surface. To keep the shoot in the ground, it is either secured with wire or a weight is placed on top.

The cuttings need to be watered regularly and within a couple of months they will form their own root system. Then it can be carefully separated from the mother bush and planted in a permanent place.

Propagation of lavender by dividing the bush

If you have bushes that have been growing in the garden for several years and produce abundant young shoots, then you can propagate the plant simple division bush. For this:

• a strong bush is selected;
• in summer, the top shoots are cut off (to strengthen the root system);
• the plant is earthed up so that there is earth between the shoots;
• the crop remains in this state all summer;
• in the fall, lavender is dug up and carefully divided into two parts, trying to minimize damage to the root system;
• The separated plants are planted again in the ground.

How to care for lavender outdoors

In nature, lavender is found in mountainous areas, where it often falls a large number of precipitation. Therefore, the crop loves regular watering, although it can easily survive a temporary lack of moisture. The main thing here is to observe moderation - water the soil as soon as you notice it drying out.

• excessive moisture will lead to rotting of the roots of the crop;
• lack of moisture - reduces the duration of flowering.

To prolong the flowering of lavender in the garden, simply cut off the wilted inflorescences. And in order to speed up the development of the plant next year, you need to trim the bush as winter approaches, leaving 5-6 of the strongest young shoots. During the flowering season, shoots that are too long can be removed to preserve the decorative appearance of the bush.

Lavender responds very well to hilling, as well as loosening the soil and removing weeds. The fact is that lavender needs oxygen to reach its roots.

Also experienced flower growers It is recommended to mulch the soil around the bushes, especially in spring and autumn period, – this will promote uniform evaporation of moisture and maintain looseness of the soil. As mulch, you can use foliage or special decorative substrates that are sold in gardening stores. The main thing is to leave the base of the lavender bush open to avoid moisture accumulation and the onset of rotting processes.

Insects rarely attack lavender bushes. Perhaps the appearance of a pennitsa, which lays larvae on lavender leaves, covering them with white foam. The larvae themselves are not harmful to the plant, but they do interfere with its decorative properties. To fix the problem, simply rinse the penthum larvae off the leaves with a stream of water.

Lavender: fertilization

1. To feed lavender bushes during the beginning of flowering, mineral fertilizer complexes are used. To do this, dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. l. fertilizers and water the lavender with the resulting solution.
2. Nitrogen fertilizers will help the crop grow green mass. They also need to be diluted 2 tbsp. l. on a bucket of water. However, be careful: such fertilizing can only be done in spring or early summer, and starting from the second half of summer they are prohibited: lavender activates growth and will not be able to properly prepare for wintering.

Lavender: preparing the plant for wintering

In the middle zone, lavender will need winter shelter. And although some gardeners claim that the crop can withstand on its own subzero temperatures– It’s better not to take risks.

After the autumn trimming of the bush, it should be covered with branches ( ideal option there will be branches coniferous trees) – under such shelter sufficient ventilation and heat will be maintained. But you shouldn’t cover lavender bushes with leaves: lack of air circulation can cause the crop to rot.

How to grow lavender indoors

If you want your apartment to be filled with a magical aroma, you can easily grow lavender (including from seeds) at home. Choose compact dwarf varieties for this.

Let's give simple instructions, following which you will create without any problems comfortable conditions for a plant.

1. Prepare small containers, the volume of which will not exceed 2 liters.
2. Place drainage (gravel, pebbles or shards) at the bottom of the pots. Make sure that the drain holes are not blocked, otherwise the plant will rot due to accumulated moisture.
3. Prepare a soil mixture of sand and peat with the addition of a small amount of crushed eggshells.
4. Plant a young bush or seeds.
5. Remember that in the room where lavender grows, the temperature should not fall below +15 o C.
6. It is advisable to place the plant near a window so that it receives enough sunlight. If this is not possible, you can use artificial lighting with fluorescent lamps.
7. Lavender needs to be watered as the soil dries out. room temperature. It is also useful to spray the leaves.
8. When the crop finishes flowering, remove the inflorescences.
9. With the onset of winter, the plant needs to create conditions for rest: water it rarely, put it in a cool place.

How to grow lavender correctly: video

In the article we discuss lavender at home, what types of plants to use for planting, how to properly prepare the soil and care for the plant. You will learn how to use essential oil in medicinal purposes and harvest lavender.

Lavender can be grown not only on personal plot, but also at home

Before growing lavender at home, you need to know which species are suitable for room conditions . Narrow-leaved and broad-leaved lavender are suitable for this. The narrow-leaved one is also called English, and the broad-leaved one is called Mediterranean.

Lavender requires plenty of watering, adequate lighting and good drainage.

Indoor lavender is used as a calming agent nervous system, improving sleep quality. Medicinal decoctions are prepared from the stems and flowers.

Growing lavender from seeds

Good growth of lavender at home is determined by preparing a suitable substrate, choosing a container for planting of the required volume and providing quality care. If these requirements are met, you can harvest a bountiful harvest by the end of summer.

Soil preparation

To grow lavender at home, start by choosing a container or pot.. Regardless of how the plant is grown - by dividing cuttings or using seeds - use a container with a capacity of at least 2 liters. To grow lavender at home in a pot, pebbles and gravel are placed at the bottom. The substrate is prepared from a sand-peat mixture taken in a 1:1 ratio. Add 1 part perlite and crushed shells from 2 eggs.

Landing

Caring for and growing lavender at home is not a hassle if the seeds have been stratified. To do this, the seeds are mixed with sawdust or sand and placed in the refrigerator for 30 days. Hardening improves germination rates and makes the plant more adapted to temperature changes. In alkaline soil they give an excellent harvest.

Seeds are planted in the substrate to a depth of approximately 3 mm. The container is covered with film and placed in a cool, well-lit place. Out of 15-20 seeds, only one can sprout, so the seeds are hardened and planted in large quantities. When the sprout has more than six pairs of leaves, its top is pinched off, this is necessary so that the lavender bushes better.

Care

The plant must be on sunlight at least 10 hours a day. If the pots are on the windowsill, the heat from the radiator makes the air dry and hot - this negatively affects the growth of lavender. Therefore, containers with water or air conditioners that have a humidification function are placed next to heating devices.

Caring for lavender at home begins with daily watering of the plant. The soil should not dry out. You need to make sure that it is always slightly damp. Water the plant once a day in the early morning or in the evening. For the first 3-4 weeks, add 2 g of fertilizer to 1 liter of water.

But you can’t pour water on lavender either - its roots rot. Before growing lavender at home, make 2-3 small holes in the bottom of the pot or container and place the container on a tray - this ensures timely drainage of excess water and moistening of the lower layers of the soil as it dries.

Planting and caring for lavender at home does not mean that the plant should always stand on the windowsill. In spring, it is taken out to the balcony for a few minutes and brought home again. Gradually, the time of these “walks” is increased to several hours.

Caring for lavender in a pot at home also includes choosing its location. The plant does not like drafts and cold winds, but it grows well on the south side of the living room. If there are a lot of sprouts and they are crowded into a thick mass, then they should be divided into equal piles. To do this, the lower parts of the plant are slightly moved apart and the boundaries are marked by pouring soil into the formed depressions.

Lavender “falls asleep” at home in winter, so it must be removed from the sunny side in a cool part of the room. At this time, it does not grow and is watered much less often - as the soil dries out.

Lavender at home grows well only in loose, light soil. It will die in black soil and clay soil.

Growing lavender from cuttings

Plant lavender by seeds or cuttings

At proper cultivation When growing lavender at home in a pot, it becomes lush and fills the rooms with a pleasant aroma. Space in the pot is limited, so over time the roots entwine the entire lump of soil and dry quickly. The plant requires timely transplantation into a container bigger size. If there is a need to propagate lavender, the cutting method is used.

Use propagation by cuttings during the autumn pruning of the plant, when it is being prepared for winter “hibernation”. To do this, choose annual shoots that are already covered with bark. Make the lower cuts of the cuttings closer to the buds - this will avoid further rotting of the plant in the soil. For propagation, use branches in the middle zone of the bush.

The cuttings are 7-10 cm in length. They are dipped in a moistened sand-peat mixture and covered with foil or film. Water them as the substrate dries, while simultaneously spraying the above-ground part of the plant. In the daytime, free the cuttings from protective coating and let the plant “breathe”.

How to grow lavender in a pot at home using layering? In this case, cuttings are formed from plant shoots, which are pressed to the ground with a weight. When they sprout roots, the cuttings are cut off and planted separately.

Diseases and pests

Caring for lavender at home includes pest control, which can cause the plant to die without producing a harvest. The main enemies of the plant are gray rot and pennies. In the first case, the leaves appear dark spots. They move onto healthy areas of lavender and quickly destroy the plant. The main way to combat them is timely removal of the affected areas.

Pennies chew leaves, creating large holes in them. Insects lay larvae, covering them with a substance similar to foamy saliva. In this way they protect their offspring from attacks by other pests. The foam can be washed off with a stream of water, but the pennies themselves must be collected manually. During processing toxic substances you risk destroying the lavender.

For more information about planting lavender, watch the video:

Harvesting

Properly growing lavender in a pot at the end of summer will yield a bountiful harvest. The calyxes of the plant are used to prepare medicinal decoctions - they contain the largest amount of useful substances. Wait until the plant wilts and the area of ​​dried petals will be approximately ⅔ of the total number of flowers.

To store the plant for the winter, collect it in small bunches. Tie them with a thick thread and hang them in a dry, ventilated area (pantry, roof). When the lavender is dry, place it in canvas bags or chop it and pour it into glass containers. In this form, the plant retains beneficial features until the next harvest.

What to remember?

1. Is it possible to grow lavender at home? Successful propagation of a plant depends on proper care behind it and what types of lavender you use. Narrow-leaved and broad-leaved species are suitable for indoor conditions.
2. How to care for lavender at home depending on the time of year? In summer, water it every day, and in winter - as the soil dries out.
3. If you grow lavender from seeds, use stratification.
4. The largest amount of lavender oil is contained in the calyxes of the plant.
5. Use lavender to treat nervous disorders, depression and insomnia.

Lavender – treatment plant, which can be grown both in open ground and in containers. It saves you from migraines, toothaches, reduces cramps after a stroke, gives you vigor, and helps relieve cramps from stomach pain.

Lavender tea will calm the nervous system during insomnia, hysteria and irritability.

It is an additional treatment for asthma, tuberculosis, whooping cough, flatulence, rheumatism, rashes, cystitis, scrofula, eczema, hair loss and many other diseases.

Lavender is used as tea, decoction, infusion, aromatherapy oil, and bath milk.

However, lavender in large quantities is contraindicated for pregnant women due to the possible contraction of the uterus.

IN landscape design there will be lavender bright accent the entire dacha plot and evergreen shrub with amazing essential oil effect.

Lavender flowers can be blue, purple, white and pink. It is an excellent honey plant and attracts a huge number of butterflies.

In the same time garden pests(codling moths and Colorado potato beetles) try to avoid summer cottages with lavender bushes growing near root crops.

There are quite a few types of lavender, but the most common are narrow-leaved, true, English, and spikelet. The average height of the bushes reaches 1 m, for dwarf species - 30-40 cm. Spike lavender has a more expressive aroma and bears 3 inflorescences on one stem, which attracts the attention of many beauty connoisseurs. Flowering of any variety of lavender occurs in June-July, except for one single one - Stakhadskaya lavender, the flowering of which begins in March.

Place and soil

It is preferable to choose an open sunny area for planting lavender, since in the shade the flowering will be short and less lush. Reacts poorly to swampiness. Prefers sandy soil with low groundwater levels.

Planting by seeds

Before sowing lavender seeds, it is necessary to carry out preparation - keep the seeds in the refrigerator (on the bottom shelf) for 1-1.5 months:

• At the beginning of March, mix the seeds with river sand, moisten with a spray bottle, cover with polyethylene and leave for another month to germinate at a temperature of 15-20°C, periodically moistening and ventilating.
• Keep the crops in the brightest place.
• Seedlings are planted in open ground at the end of May.
• Add lime or wood ash to acidic soils.
• The distance between the holes is 1-1.5 m, depending on the diameter of the future shrub.

Flowering will begin in 1-2 years, when the plant has formed a strong root system.

Another way to grow lavender with seeds is to sow it directly into open ground in the spring. To do this, in early March, place the seeds in the bottom drawer of the refrigerator, and in May, sow them directly into open ground. Cover with lutrasil and monitor the soil moisture, it should not be dry. The cover is removed when the seedlings become stronger.

If your summer cottage is located in a warm region, then lavender seeds are sown before winter, in October, to a depth of no more than 0.5 cm. That is why it is very important that there are no severe frosts in your region. When snow falls, cover the crops with as large a layer as possible. They can ascend in May-June and even later.

Lavender care

Water as needed; from an excess of moisture, the rhizomes begin to rot, and from a lack of moisture, the level of flowering decreases. Hill up the shrubs and mulch - this will retain moisture in the soil and provide plenty of nutrients.

Fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizer or manure will help increase green mass and reduce flowering. Lavender responds well to potassium fertilizers.

Sanitary (minor) pruning of shrubs is best done after flowering, and rejuvenating pruning at the end summer season, leaving 4-5 young shoots 3-5 cm tall.

Lavender is a drought-resistant, but not frost-resistant plant, so in the fall, after anti-aging pruning, cover it with branches of coniferous or spruce branches. In this case, the leaves are not suitable for shelter, since the lavender under them may die. In spring, discard the branches and add soil under the bush.

Gray rot and pentilia larvae can damage lavender. Parts of the plant damaged by rot are cut off and burned, and the penna is washed off with a stream of water. The presence of larvae can be determined by obvious signs foam on the shoots.

Lavender is propagated vegetatively. To do this, make a groove 5 cm deep and bend the lower shoots. After filling with soil, moisten it. Next spring, young shoots from the mother bush are cut off and transplanted to a permanent place. Sprinkle the cut area with crushed coal.

For cuttings, annual woody shoots are used. Cut cuttings 5-10 cm long and root.

Make the first transplant after the lavender has produced several sets of leaves. Wait until the leaves become " the right leaves", or fully mature. At this point, the root system will have grown too large to continue growing in the shallow tray.

Fill a large container with well-drained potting mix. You no longer need potting mix for the seeds, but the potting mix you use should be light. Look for mixtures that are made from part soil and part peat moss and part perlite. Peat moss is endangered; use coconut fiber instead if possible. Do not use vermiculite, which may contain asbestos, even if it does not say so on the label.

• The pot for each plant must be at least 5 cm in diameter. Alternatively, you can also use a larger pot or an undivided tray and plant a lot of lavender in the tray 5cm apart.