French lavender planting and care at home. How to grow lavender from seeds at home, and care

Lavender is a perennial essential oil crop and subshrub. It is famous not only for its subtle relaxing aroma, which moths and mosquitoes cannot tolerate, but also medicinal properties. Its homeland is located on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea, so the plant is quite thermophilic.

Although this one is useful and beautiful flower It is finicky and difficult to grow; this is also possible at home in a pot. For good growth of indoor lavender, it is enough to take into account some subtleties and apply a little effort. And these delicate flowers will decorate any window sill of a balcony or loggia. Indoor specimens are much smaller than outdoor varieties, but no less decorative.

How to grow lavender at home

For regions where winter temperatures drop below -15°C, it is necessary to take care of the preservation of the roots, because frost does not occur in the flower’s homeland. The right decision There will be growing bushes in ceramic pots or other suitable containers in order to be able to quickly hide them from frost. In winter, lavender shoots will do well at home in a pot on sunny windowsills.

Before growing lavender at home, you need to decide on the variety. When choosing one of the many types, it is necessary to take into account the climatic conditions of the area. French varieties are very heat-loving, while England and Portugal offer more resistant varieties.

The most important attribute when planting is the container in which the bush will grow. It should be deep and wide, with a volume of at least 2 liters and approximately 30 cm in diameter. After all, the root system of lavender has a large mass.

For wild flowering of homemade lavender bushes, basic growing rules must be observed:

Once a week, loosen the soil to ensure the flow of oxygen to the rhizome.
To maintain the substrate moisture at the proper level, laying a layer of mulch on top will help. Pine needles, sawdust or store-bought decorative substrate are suitable for this. The lower parts of the stems must be left open, otherwise due to high humidity they may be affected by mold or mildew.
To create a lush and beautiful bush Trimming excess, dry and weakened stems will help. It is also possible to arrange lavender in a bonsai style, because it is docile and shoots grow well in any direction.
With the onset of winter, dried stems are pruned. In severe frosts, plants are covered or brought into the room from the balcony (veranda).
To feed and fertilize the bushes, it is suitable to use, according to the instructions, any complex mineral preparation for ornamental plants (with the exception of violets). But at the same time, fertilizers should not contain organic matter and nitrogen. To accelerate growth and increase green mass, adding potassium-containing fertilizers will help. Fertilizer is applied to the root areas during the flowering period.
In the second half of July, feeding should be stopped, so the flowers can rest and successfully prepare for winter.

Reproduction methods

Lavender is propagated by layering, cuttings, dividing the bush or by seeds. Its cuttings can quickly take root and will delight you with delicate fragrant flowers in the same year. Growing from seeds is more labor-intensive, but makes it possible to choose any of the commercially available varieties.

Propagation by seeds

After sowing, the first shoots appear after 50-55 days. If you have a great desire to grow one of the exotic, whimsical varieties, strict adherence to all important stages preparation and sowing:

Seeds need to be stratified; to do this, they are kept in a cold place for at least 45 days. You can fill the seed with clean river sand, wrap it in a strong bag and store it on the bottom shelf refrigeration chamber. Cold hardening ensures friendly shoots, because it creates a feeling of natural development conditions for plants.
Light and soft sandy soils with good fertilizer. In this case, the seeds are buried no more than 3 cm. Clay soil is categorically unsuitable. The most optimal mixture for the soil is as follows: 3 parts of deciduous soil, part of sand and two parts of humus. Adding lime helps create ideal conditions for growth.
The appearance of the first shoots should be expected no earlier than 30 days later. Normal growth should occur at a temperature of about +15-+20°C and sufficient lighting with the presence of sunlight. It is better to place containers with seedlings on the windowsill of a well-lit south or east window. Partial shade causes shoots to reach towards the light, which leads to the formation of weak, tall stems.
Lavender does not tolerate severe waterlogging and... For stable growth in a container, good drainage is necessary. For this purpose, pebbles, expanded clay, walnut shells are used, and the bottom is strewn with shards or fine gravel. In this case, you need to ensure that the drainage does not block the drain holes in the bottom of the container.
To hasten the emergence of seedlings, the pots are placed under glass or film. It is important to ventilate twice a day.
When the shoots grow 5 cm and form a strong, healthy horse system, it is time to transplant them into permanent growing containers. Seedlings are planted at a distance of 10 cm from each other, this suitable option for home growing.
Now it’s better to be patient, because in the first year of life the plants are busy forming the root system and gaining strength. Lavender flowers They will be delighted to appear a year later, maybe a year and a half later.

Now all you need is simple maintenance, which consists of maintaining the substrate moisture at an appropriate level and regular loosening.

Dividing the bush

Successful propagation by dividing the bush requires some preparation. IN autumn period The plant is trimmed at a height of 8-10 cm and sprinkled with soil. With the arrival of spring, lavender is sprinkled again. These actions lead to the formation of numerous shoots. With the arrival of new autumn, the bushes will be completely ready for division.

When propagated by division, flowering occurs earlier than when using other methods. Mature bushes are carefully dug up and divided into separate parts. Before planting new plants in the ground, cut off the root lobes so that they receive more moisture from the soil. At home, this method of reproduction is the most convenient.

When the bushes gain strength and produce the first inflorescences, you can try propagation by layering.

Reproduction using layering

This is a very convenient and labor-intensive method. Grooves are made next to the bushes, into which some of the lower stems are bent, secured in this position and sprinkled with substrate. The plants will take root in these places. Already next spring the cuttings are suitable for independent growth. They are cut off from the bush, dug up and replanted.

Lavender in pots looks very beautiful and unusual. Although growing bushes at home and caring for them is not much more difficult than in open ground. The main condition is the acquisition of high-quality seeds or seedlings. Poor quality seed material may simply not germinate. And for good growth, it is important to observe the temperature regime and carefully care. If it is important to get a plant of a certain variety, then to be completely sure it is better to purchase bushes that are already flowering. And if you apply diligence and patience, the house will always be filled with the alluring aroma of excellent flowering bushes.

Lavender – decorative herbaceous plant native to the Mediterranean and Southern Europe. Flower lovers grow it in single bushes in plots, use it on alpine hills and as a border in flower beds.

Lavender is a shrub without a central stem from the Lamiaceae family. Spike-shaped inflorescences of white, blue, purple or pink hue are formed on the shoots. The name of this plant comes from two Latin roots "lava". It is said that the flower received this name due to its use in ancient times as an additive during bathing. Lavender exudes a pleasant, light aroma, which is why it is often used as a perfume.

Some gardeners are sure that lavender is a capricious plant and requires special attention. But knowing some secrets allows you to grow it on your own plot without making much effort. If lavender is grown in a pot, care at home also has some features and nuances. One of the main conditions is the selection the right variety for growing indoors.

Types and varieties of lavender grown at home with photographs

There are about 20 types of lavender in nature, including many varieties. They all differ in the shape and height of the bush, and the color of the flowers. Some species are intended for planting exclusively in open ground.

To grow lavender in a pot , you need to choose the following types:

Lavender angustifolia (English). Among the varieties of this species, there are plants with a height of no more than 30 centimeters. The inflorescences are located on long stems covered with gray-green, narrow leaves.
Lavender latifolia (French). Ancestress decorative varieties. Flowers have a wide color scheme. The disadvantage of this type is its somewhat unpleasant aroma.
Lavender serrated. A heat-loving species intended exclusively for growing at home. The leaves of this species are silvery and soft. The inflorescences are covered with large, bright blue flowers.

The most popular varieties of lavender are:

Dwarf blue;
Hidcote;
Sweet;
Sharon Roberts;
Lavender Lady;
Snowman (white lavender);
Munstead;
Nana Alba.

Necessary conditions for cultivation

Lavender on the windowsill is a very real phenomenon. The main condition is the selection of dishes, soil and compliance with the maintenance requirements in the apartment.

Lavender pot

When choosing a pot important condition– sufficient space to accommodate the root system. For planting, you can use a pot or an oblong container. Lavender loves space, so to start growing, you need to select a pot diameter of at least 30 centimeters. A smaller diameter will negatively affect flowering: the less nutrition there is at the roots, the smaller and more inconspicuous the flowers. The container for lavender is selected with a volume of at least 2-3 liters. Several bushes planted in an oblong container look impressive.

Lavender needs to be planted in a large pot.

The growing container must have a sufficient number of drainage holes to drain excess water when watering. The material of the pot does not matter. But experienced gardeners advise using an unglazed ceramic pot, since in a plastic one the roots may suffer from waterlogging. A drainage layer at the bottom of the pot at least 5-6 centimeters high will help protect the plant from waterlogging.

The container for planting lavender must be light. Dark dishes get very hot in the sun, and the earthen lump will dry out too quickly. Overheating of the roots of even such a heat-loving plant will negatively affect its well-being, and can even lead to death.

Location and lighting requirements

Lavender is extremely demanding on lighting and will not grow without enough light. The apartment requires a south window sill. In summer, it is advisable to place the plant on the balcony, or better yet, take it outside.

Lavender in a pot in winter, even on a southern windowsill, will suffer from a lack of sunlight, so it needs to be additionally illuminated. To organize additional lighting, you can use special phyto- or fluorescent lamps. Daylight hours for the plant should be at least 10 hours.

Lavender needs additional lighting

Selecting soil for lavender in a pot

The ideal soil composition for lavender consists of sand or gravel, humus, turf or leaf soil in a ratio of 1:1:2. If it is impossible to prepare the substrate yourself, ready-made flower soil from the store is quite suitable. You need to add a small amount of small crushed stone to it for looseness and breathability.

Plain garden soil cannot be used for planting lavender, as it becomes compacted when watered, and the roots of the plant begin to “suffocate.”

Planting lavender

At home, lavender can be grown in three ways:

sowing seeds;
rooting cuttings;
reproduction by layering.

Rules for sowing seeds

The most affordable way to grow lavender is by sowing seeds. Before sowing, you should carefully study the question of how to grow lavender in a pot at home.

Lavender can be grown from seeds

Before sowing, seeds must undergo cold stratification for 30-40 days. The seeds are spread with peat or sphagnum moss, slightly moistened and kept at a temperature of plus 5-6 degrees in the refrigerator or cellar.

For sowing, seedling containers are filled with a mixture of peat and sand and a little crushed shell is added. The soil must be homogeneous, without lumps, so it must be thoroughly kneaded and sifted through a sieve with large mesh. If lumps remain in the soil, the seeds may not be able to cope with their pressure and will not sprout.

Seeds are planted to a depth of 2-3 centimeters. The crops are covered with film and placed in a cool place (balcony or bottom shelf of the refrigerator). After 2 weeks, the container with the crops is moved to a bright place with a temperature of +15...+18 degrees.

Shoots, depending on the quality of the seeds, appear in 30-40 days. Seedlings at the age of 2-3 weeks are planted in a larger box for growing, and then planted in separate pots.

Rooting cuttings

The method of growing lavender from seeds has one drawback: flowering begins after one to two years. You can get a flowering specimen the next year by cuttings.

Lavender can be successfully taken from cuttings

For rooting, annual shoots are cut and divided into 10-centimeter segments. The lower cut must be made at an angle of 45 degrees and treated with a root formation stimulator (Radifarm,). Then the cuttings are placed in a moist mixture of sand and peat and covered with transparent caps to create greenhouse conditions. After rooting, the cuttings are planted in separate pots.

Reproduction of lavender by layering

Layerings are the outermost shoots of a lavender bush, intentionally rooted in the soil. In March-April, the shoot is bent to the ground and fixed with a metal or wooden slingshot. The place of contact with the ground is sprinkled and moistened. Roots begin to form on the cuttings. The rooted cuttings are separated from the mother bush after about 2 months.

Dividing the bush

The procedure for dividing the bush is carried out at the end of September - beginning of October. You should not dig up a lavender bush from the soil. A small part of the bush is separated with a shovel, cutting the roots. In this state, the plant should overwinter. In the spring, the separated part of the bush is dug out of the soil and transplanted into a pot. This specimen begins to bloom after 30-40 days.

Lavender can be propagated by dividing the mother bush

Plant care

Proper care of lavender in your apartment is a guarantee of its proper development and abundant flowering. Any violation of the conditions of maintenance immediately affects the appearance of the plant. Lavender requires regular watering, without drying out the soil and without waterlogging. Warm, settled water is used for irrigation. The soil in the pot should be moist, but without stagnant water. Excess moisture It is imperative to drain the pan after watering.

A feature of watering lavender is to moisten the foliage. Watering is carried out in such a way that the water falls on the leaves and then flows into the soil. On particularly hot summer days, it is necessary to additionally spray the foliage to maintain humidity levels.

In spring and summer, lavender is watered 2-3 times a week, preventing the earthen clod from drying out. In autumn, watering is reduced to once every 2 weeks. In winter, when the plant is dormant, it needs to be watered once every 30 days with a minimum amount of water.

Lavender needs regular feeding. They are applied in liquid form, combined with watering, once every 2-3 weeks. Before the formation of buds, nitrogen-containing complexes are used. After the formation of buds begins and until the end of the growing season, phosphorus-potassium mixtures are used. Nitrogen is excluded from fertilizing during this period, since its excess will lead to an increase in leaf mass to the detriment of flowering.

Lavender requires regular feeding

Lavender needs pruning to form the correct spherical shape. Shoots escaping from the main crown are trimmed with garden shears, giving the bush a rounded shape. Formative pruning is carried out twice during the growing season:

in spring - before flowering begins;
in late summer or early autumn after flowering ends.

In summer, during flowering, sanitary pruning is carried out. Its purpose is to remove damaged, drying shoots and wilted flowers. The procedure gives the lavender bush a neat appearance and stimulates the formation of new flowers..

In spring, it is recommended to replant lavender in a large container. The procedure is carried out annually, as the root system grows quickly and becomes crowded in a small pot. The purpose of replanting is also to replace the soil with a more nutritious one.

When replanting, do not remove the old soil from the roots. The lavender is carefully removed from the old pot along with the earthen lump and placed in another pot, 3-4 centimeters in diameter larger than the previous one. The resulting empty space along the edges of the roots is filled with fresh soil.

As the bush ages, from about the fifth or sixth year of life, the bush is divided into several parts. This technique allows you to obtain new, full-fledged specimens of the plant, and also serves to rejuvenate lavender. After division, lavender begins to actively form new shoots and bloom more profusely.

Possible difficulties when growing lavender in a pot

Successful cultivation of lavender lies in following certain rules

Lavender forms a long central root, which should always have enough space. If the root starts to push against the bottom of the pot, the lavender stops growing. Given this feature, you need to select deep pots for growing.
The plant needs fresh air. In a stuffy, unventilated room, the plant will begin to “suffocate” and slow down its growth. The room where lavender is grown must be regularly ventilated. In summer, the plant should be taken out onto the balcony or outside.
You should not allow the earthen clod to dry out completely even once. If the plant withers from lack of moisture, no growth stimulants or resuscitation procedures will help revive the plant.
Diseases and pests generally do not affect the plant, but waterlogging can lead to the appearance of disease. gray mold. In this case, the stems begin to droop. If the lavender is affected by gray rot, you need to remove it from the pot and replant it in new, partially replaced soil. After transplantation, the plant is watered. Diseased stems should be cut out. If lavender is severely damaged by gray mold, the plant cannot be saved.

You can get acquainted with the features of planting lavender by watching the proposed video material. Enjoy watching!

It's no secret that the world around us is constantly changing; only flowers, especially indoor ones, remain unchanged. Many were captivated by the tenderness of blooming lavender in a pot, caring for it at home requires a lot of effort. After all, the homeland of this cute plant is the warm coast of the Mediterranean Sea, where there are no severe frosts. And snow falls only on mountain peaks.

Today there are up to 30 types of lavender. The most popular are:

Interestingly, the ancestor of lavender in pots was a broadleaf plant variety that requires special care at home. In addition, the flower is valued not only for its charming appearance, but also for beneficial features.
It is widely used for making aromatic oils, in cooking, as well as in medicinal purposes. As a result, the flower fell in love with enterprising fans. indoor plants.

Secrets of growing lavender on the window

For a long time it was believed that it was simply impossible to grow lavender in a pot at home. Unlike other indoor plants, as previously thought, it is not adapted to such an existence. In fact, the flower takes root indoors if you carefully control the temperature and properly care for it.

To grow lavender in a pot, the following conditions must be met:

The container for planting the plant should be about 2 liters.
The diameter of the pot is at least 30 centimeters.
Drainage made of fine gravel or walnut shells is placed at the bottom.
The soil must be alkaline.

Even if these requirements are met, indoor lavender pleases its fans with flowers for a short time.

As soon as the root system of the plant feels the bottom of the pot, it must be replanted. Otherwise, the lavender will stop growing, begin to hurt and eventually die.

To ensure that the roots of the flower have access to air, it is advisable to leave the hole at the bottom of the pot free. It is better to arrange drainage carefully and carefully, rather than in bulk. In addition, the plant needs fertilizing, which is carried out from time to time with special fertilizers. As a result, lavender will appear in a pot at home to the delight of indoor plant lovers.

Basic rules for caring for a southern beauty

When on summer cottage lavender growing is a familiar sight. Delicate and lovely flowers of blue or purple won the hearts of many gardeners. But they don’t want to part with them for a long time, so they grow them in houses on windowsills. The flower amazes not only with its splendor, but also with the pleasant smell emanating from the buds. So proper care At home, drinking lavender in a pot brings benefits not only to the plant, but also many pleasant moments for its fans.

Growing a flower indoors is radically different from caring for it in a flower garden. Outdoors, lavender successfully takes root under the shade of bushes or trees. Even if it is watered only occasionally, it pleases gardeners with its flowering for a long time. Caring for lavender in a pot requires a lot more effort and attention.

Many people call blue mountain flowers a charming guest from the south. Therefore, for successful plant growth it is important to observe the following conditions:

lots of sunshine;
loose sandy soil;
infrequent watering.

If there is not enough sunlight in the house, the flower will starve and eventually die. On average, lavender needs bright light for 6 hours. You should not risk the life of an exotic flower for the sake of an experiment.

When transplanting a plant into a pot bigger size, prepare a suitable substrate, consisting of one part of humus, sand or gravel and two parts of turf soil. First, the container with the plant is generously moistened so that the roots of the flower are not damaged during replanting. Together with the earthen lump, the lavender is transferred to another container, where it continues to develop successfully.

To obtain loose soil, ordinary soil is thoroughly mixed with sand and covered with drainage located at the bottom of the pot.

When properly caring for lavender, the main thing is not to overdo it with watering. The heat-loving plant does not need constant soil moisture. Otherwise, it will stretch upward, the leaves will first lighten, then wither, and “goodbye lovely lavender.” In view of this, it is advisable to water the plant no more than once every 7 days. During high humidity the gap between waterings can be increased to 10 days. The best option– water when the top layer of soil is completely dry.

In winter, the bush is pruned and sent to a cool room. The cuts are made several points above the place where the leaves begin to grow. Watering is carried out once every 14 days.

In order for lavender to flourish on the windowsill for a long time, it needs regular feeding at least every 2 weeks. Any fertilizer for indoor plants will do.

Houseplant lovers have noticed that lavender grows best in light-colored pots.

Dark-colored containers attract solar heat, therefore they heat up quickly, which has a detrimental effect on the roots of the plant. Such a seemingly trifle, but the life of a delicate southern flower depends on it.

Video about growing lavender in a pot

Lavender is a beautiful original upright plant. Its purple spikelets attract a large number of photography enthusiasts. But even a person who is far from newfangled trends cannot pass by fragrant fields and peculiarly planted lines of neat bushes. But in order to grow and preserve it in winter frosts, you need to perform a number of measures to care for lavender in the autumn months.

Features of caring for lavender in autumn and preparing for winter - general recommendations

Lavender is a heat-loving plant. It has leaves that are distinctive from other crops, covered with white felt, soft to the touch and of a peculiar greenish-white hue. If lavender feels comfortable in warm regions, then in harsher areas it requires special care.

Before the fragrant beauty goes into winter dormancy, in order to protect the shrub from freezing, it should be carefully prepared. For this purpose, several procedures are carried out with lavender in the autumn:

loosening around bushes and removing weeds;
thorough watering;
pruning;
feeding mineral fertilizers;
shelter for the winter.

Note! To achieve abundant flowering, it is recommended to plant the purple beauty in open sunny areas or in flowerpots. The latter can be moved anywhere in the yard. You can place it in the shade, but then you may either not see flowering at all, or the buds will be few and scarce.

It is important for culture to the soil in which she grows, was loose. This is necessary so that air and moisture can easily penetrate to the roots of the bush. If the soil does not meet this kind of condition, you need to periodically loosen the soil near the roots, while removing weeds.

In order not to constantly fight weeds, you can go the other way - under each lavender bush mulch from fallen leaves. But in most cases, this method of mulching is not aesthetically beautiful. For this purpose, multi-colored decorative substrates are used - original and useful for the bush.

You need to be very careful about watering. Lavender does not tolerate marshy soils. Therefore, you should not overdo it with watering. If the soil becomes swampy, the roots will begin to rot and the leaves will turn yellow. You should also not overdry the plantings. The bush will not die, but the flowering will noticeably become scarcer. Optimal watering - as needed.

Trimming lavender in the fall is carried out at the request of the gardener. Designed to replace faded buds with new inflorescences.

Important! Fertilizing should be done more in the spring months, before budding begins. In the fall, before the cold weather, lavender can be fed with phosphorus and potassium. If multi-colored substrates are laid out under the bush, you don’t have to bother at all. While they decompose, the soil will be saturated with all the necessary mineral fertilizers.

Final stage - shelter for the winter. The procedure is slightly different in each climate zone. But it is necessary to cover the lavender, otherwise it may freeze completely.

Thus, caring for lavender in the fall is no more difficult than caring for any other plant. The main thing is that you need to follow all the procedures, and then the bush will respond with active, lush flowering every year.

Pruning in autumn

Pruning is necessary throughout the entire growth and flowering cycle of this wonderful plant. In this article we will dwell in more detail on autumn pruning of lavender.

Should lavender be pruned in the fall?

Pruning lavender in the fall is carried out in order to maintain the compactness of the bush for a long time. Not all gardeners carry out the removal of the above-ground part of the shoots. Many farmers tend to leave almost the entire shoot, thereby preserving the crown of the bush. It is believed that this is how the culture is covered snow mass and stays warm until spring without freezing.

But when the winter has little snow, such long shoots, especially their green part, freeze significantly due to cold winds and a strong drop in temperature. In addition, long trunks are susceptible to brittleness when frozen. Such fragility is unacceptable during piercing cold winds. Broken parts of the bush can acquire diseases of various types or harmful insects.

Attention! Removal of excess growth should be carried out throughout the entire period. This pruning is very important for the bush. If you don't give lavender proper attention, it will stop blooming.

When to prune lavender - autumn or spring

Cutting the stems in the spring months is required to encourage rapid flowering. To do this, pruning is carried out to make the bush decorative and lush. It is done as soon as the last threat of frost has passed.

Pruning is radical if it removes a third or even half of the existing volume, but provided that most of it is not cut off in the fall.

Besides, in the spring carried out sanitary pruning. Necessary for removing frozen and pest-ridden trunks. IN autumn months other types of removal of faded spikelets are required. Therefore, it is impossible to determine the importance of removing shoots in each season - pruning is important throughout the entire growth and flowering cycle.

When and how to prune lavender in the fall

Lavender is pruned in the fall after it has bloomed a second time. This period falls exactly on the first month of autumn.

Excess growth should be removed for convenient shelter for the winter. For this purpose, the entire upper part is cut off, leaving about 3 cm of a young trunk, which smoothly passes into the woody part. This amount of shoots is necessary for the plant to successfully overwinter cold days without frozen areas.

Video: how to prune lavender in autumn

Important! In addition to the procedure of cutting off part of the crown of a bush, in the fall they carry out anti-aging pruning. You cannot cut off a shrub completely at the root. If this method suits many flowering bushes, then it is destructive for lavender. It should be carried out in two stages.

Because of this, for the first time the outer side of the bush is radically removed to the middle. Next year, the second, central part of the bush is subject to a radical rejuvenation procedure. This frequency of pruning will allow lavender to overwinter without significant losses during a strong drop in air temperatures and quickly recover.

Video: pruning lavender in autumn

Feeding and fertilizing lavender after pruning

After autumn pruning is completed, it is recommended to feed the lavender. Suitable for this any mineral fertilizers, sold in specialized flower shops.

The consistency required for dilution is 2 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water (per bucket). Fertilizing should be done after loosening and good irrigation with water. It is forbidden to pour fertilizers onto dry soil - they will burn the lavender root system.

Nitrogen fertilizing is applied only to spring period when the green mass is growing. In September should not be fertilized with nitrogen-containing fertilizers elements, because of which young leaves may freeze.

Covering lavender for the winter

In warm regions, lavender is not covered for the winter. It is quite frost-resistant and can withstand temperatures as low as -25 C in the fresh air.

In harsher climates, shelter is a must. If the shrub grows in flowerpots, then at the first signs of cold weather you need to bring the pots into a warm room.

By the way! The most dangerous periods for the entire period of frost are not considered to be a snowy winter, but a warm spring with a sharp nighttime temperature drop.

How to cover lavender for the winter

To properly cover lavender for the winter, you need to follow the following recommendations:

The bush is tied to prevent snow from getting inside the crown.
The soil circle near the trunk should be generously covered with mulch (pine needles or dry peat).
A hut-like structure made of spruce branches, which is also recommended to be twisted with twine.

Contraindicated use mulch instead fallen leaves. Firstly, harmful insects may remain in the latter. Secondly, fallen, decaying leaves are a favorable environment for the development of pathogenic bacteria and viruses. Thirdly, under the fallen greenery the earth begins to rot, which threatens the basal trunk and roots to rot.

In addition, more northern regions can bury the plant in the ground or cover with plywood boxes. It is recommended to pile spruce branches on top for greater insulation. They will help retain heat, but at the same time allow fresh air to circulate.

Don't give up covering tied branches with snow. Under a large snowdrift, lavender is not in danger of freezing or breaking its fragile stems.

Video: how to prepare lavender for winter

What are the features of preparing lavender for winter in the regions?

Preparing lavender for winter in different regions has its own nuances.

In the middle zone (Moscow region)

In the Moscow region there are severe frosts, but despite this, gardeners advise not to cover lavender for the winter. Autumn pruning should not be done. It is believed that long trunks, if tied, are covered with snow, which contributes to greater warmth than any other shelter.

To broadleaf lavender(one of the types) has survived a harsh period, additional mulch in the form of straw, hay, fallen branches or peat is laid out under it. Under no circumstances should you leave those seedlings that are grown in containers - they will freeze during the first frost.

In the Volga region

Note! The Volga region has quite severe winters - it can drop to -25 C for 2 weeks. It’s good when there is snow outside, but if there is no white blanket, then all the plantings can freeze. Therefore, it is recommended to cover lavender for the winter, especially young plantings. They are most susceptible to freezing.

In the Urals and Siberia

The Urals and Siberia differ from other territories in severe frosts up to -35 C and above. Anyone who wants to grow a southern beauty should take care to purchase for themselves frost-resistant variety – lavender angustifolia.

Pruning in these areas is not carried out in the fall. Tall shrubs in this state are able to easily withstand severe frosts, and, most importantly, protect the root system of the shrub.

In cold winter conditions in Siberia or the Urals, shelter is a mandatory procedure. Lavender is covered with any available material - agrofibre or burlap. Additionally, it is piled on top spruce branches

Thus, if you take care of the fragrant bushes in time, then in the spring months the plant will delight active growth And abundant flowering.

Typical mistakes in caring for lavender in autumn and when preparing for winter

Many farmers unknowingly make several mistakes, due to which the plant either dies or suffers for a long time and does not bloom. The following mistakes are made in caring for lavender in the fall and when preparing for winter:

Excessive watering and excessive mowing– some gardeners are sure that lavender is a herbaceous plant and subject it to radical conditions. Due to heavy watering, the trunk and roots become damp, and after short pruning of the shoots, the shrub is not able to recover.
The soil is clayey or peaty in nature- does not allow the rhizomes of the bush to breathe freely, which, without constant loosening, provokes the death of the soil.
Loss of decorativeness after winter - inexperienced gardeners in the spring try to remove dried tops. There is no need to rush things and pull out bushes. Lavender is listed as a plant that wakes up over a long period of time.
Wrong cover– if you don’t take care of lavender at all, it can overwinter, but at the same time lose a significant part of the bush.

Important! By completely covering the entire crown with film, you can also provoke rotting of ground shoots, which will lead to the addition of a fungal disease. It is not recommended to leave the bush so that snow falls into the center - the central part of the bush may freeze, which will lead to the death of the entire plant.

Thus, lavender practically does not require painstaking care and constant monitoring. But take care of correct pruning And good shelter facing frosts. Otherwise, in the spring you may miss some specimens.

Lavender is familiar to many as an essential oil crop that has calming properties and helps relieve headaches. Evergreen, which requires an abundance of heat and light, grows naturally in the Canary Islands, India and the Mediterranean. This plant, successfully used in medicine, cosmetology, and interior decoration, is especially popular in our country.

Lavender's hardiness and ability to withstand heat and frost allow it to be grown on an industrial scale.

Lavender: description

Lavender at home is an effective insecticide: when planted in gardens and vegetable gardens, it repels pests. In particular, the plant is not tolerated by codling moths and Colorado potato beetles.

In gardens and flower beds, lavender creates a chic background, emphasizing the individuality of other plants. Its harmony with roses is gorgeous, as is the combination of the aromas of these two beautiful plants.

Externally, lavender, the cultivation of which is not particularly difficult, is a bush with an approximate diameter of 0.5 to 2 meters, with narrow, silvery leaves; flowers (from blue to dark purple) are collected in spike-shaped inflorescences. Dried twigs have a subtle, somewhat bitter aroma. In home life they are used as an effective remedy against moths. They look harmonious in “folk” interiors: chalets, Provence, country.

IN Ancient Greece Lavender was used for washing and washing, which gave rise to its current name: “lava” is Latin for “to wash.”

Varieties of Lavender

In nature, there are about 25 species of this plant.

English or angustifolia lavender. Has a strong fresh smell. The bush is approximately 1 meter in height and diameter. The leaves are gray-green, narrow, small. The flowering period occurs in mid-summer. The inflorescences are large, located on long stems. The variety is quite easy to care for and is adapted to low temperatures.

French or broadleaf lavender. Considered the ancestor of decorative varieties. Has a wide color range. Flowering begins in May. The aroma is very strong, not always pleasant.

Hybrid Dutch lavender. Popular in Southern and Central Europe. A tall, narrow-leaved (up to 2 meters) variety, characterized by large inflorescences located on long stems. Blooms in July. Widely used in industry.

Lavender serrated. The variety is heat-loving; in the domestic climate it is suitable only for indoor growing. It has silvery, soft leaves. The inflorescences consist of large blue flowers.

Lavender at home requires time and some patience. The plant prefers sandy soil, straight sunlight, does not need frequent watering. The plant will take root in the shade, but will not produce abundant blooms. It is not recommended to plant lavender near bodies of water. Being a perennial plant, lavender needs pruning, the purpose of which is to form a beautiful lush crown of the plant. It must be produced in the fall (after the spikelets-inflorescences have withered), shortening the bush to a height of 3-5 cm above the soil surface. Pruning should be done carefully, until the shoots become woody.

Lavender, which is not difficult to care for, requires constant loosening. This will ensure good air circulation and get rid of weeds nearby. You can also mulch the ground, using rotted leaves, pine needles or wood shavings as mulch. Near the base of the trunk, the soil should remain open, which will protect it from rotting.

The plant is transplanted in spring or autumn, during the dormant period, before the onset of cold weather. For the winter, it is recommended to cover lavender with spruce branches or pine needles. If the plant is still frozen, the dead parts should be cut off. The bush will recover fairly quickly.

Lavender propagation methods

Lavender is propagated in several ways: seeds, layering, cuttings, and dividing the bush. The seed growing method is rarely used due to its long duration. Lavender seeds need to be sown in a prepared container with sandy soil, moistened and left for 30-40 days; The recommended temperature is +5°C. After this time period, it is recommended to move the box with seeds to a warm, bright place, where you can wait for the first shoots to appear. Planting in the ground takes place in May.

Lavender, planted from seeds, will sprout better if stratification is carried out seed material. To do this, the seeds should be mixed with a certain amount of sand, placed in a container, which should be wrapped in polyethylene and placed in the refrigerator for a month and a half. This will ensure faster germination of the plant. At the end of this procedure, lavender seeds can be sown. That's the whole procedure.

Lavender at home, planted with seeds, will not bloom soon: first, the seedlings will develop and build up the root system. The plant will be able to show itself in all its beauty only in a year, or even two.

The method of propagation by layering is convenient and not labor-intensive. It is necessary to prepare a groove near the bush into which to bend several lower branches. The latter need to be attached and sprinkled with soil. By next spring, the cuttings are ready for independent existence; they just need to be carefully trimmed on both sides, dug up and replanted.

When cuttings, it is recommended to use woody annual shoots. They need to be cut into pieces of 7-10 cm and immersed in a loose earthen mixture, covered with film and constantly moisten the soil. Rooted branches need to be carefully dug up, leaving an earthen lump on the roots, and transplanted to a permanent place of growth.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

The method of propagating lavender by dividing the bush requires some preparation. In autumn, the plant needs to be trimmed to 8-10 cm, and then covered with soil. In the spring, sprinkle again: this will cause the formation of numerous shoots. In the fall, the lavender bush will be completely ready for division.

Planting of new lavender bushes is carried out depending on the size of the latter; The approximate distance is 0.5-1.5 meters between each other.

Lavender in a pot is beautiful, it’s fragrant, it’s unusual! Growing such a crop indoors is somewhat more difficult than in open ground. In this case, important components of its high-quality growth will be compliance with the temperature regime and careful care. An indoor specimen of lavender is an order of magnitude smaller than its outdoor compatriot, which does not detract from its decorative value.

Lavender: growing at home

So, to grow lavender at home you will need a deep and wide container due to the massive root system of the plant. The bottom of the pot should be covered with a layer of drainage; The soil for planting is recommended to be soft and well fertilized. Moreover, lavender does not like organic and nitrogen fertilizers; good growth she will be provided with potassium-containing supplements. It is recommended to apply mineral preparations to the root area during flowering. The most optimal soil composition is as follows: 3 parts leaf soil, part sand and two parts humus. Sandy soil with lime added to it will create ideal conditions for lavender to grow.

Potted lavender prefers cool, sunny locations. You will feel most comfortable on the terrace, cool balcony, or on the outside of the window.

Watering the plant

It is enough to water the plant once a week (in the morning or evening), in the cool season - twice a month, using additional air humidification. To form a lush crown, it is recommended to water mostly the green part of the plant. Water stagnation should not be allowed, otherwise lavender at home will simply die.

Lavender is medicinal and aromatic plant, which is actively used in various industries and in everyday life. People have been growing this for thousands of years amazing flower to extract essential oil, brew aromatic tea, as a honey plant and simply for beauty. A person who sees a lavender field forever remains a fan of this plant and tries to grow at least a small fragrant bush in the garden or at home.

Lavender - description of the flower

Species of the genus Lavender are usually evergreen herbaceous perennials or subshrubs. The stems actively branch, forming a low bush, and there is no central stem. The leaves are narrow, silvery green. The flowers are fragrant blue and purple, collected in spike-shaped inflorescences. There are varieties with different corolla colors.

Features of growing a flower brief description

The plant is relatively unpretentious, requires minimal care and is grown on an industrial scale. The main thing is to choose the right place for planting and do not forget about the heat-loving nature of the flower. Lavender is able to maximize its decorative qualities only in open ground, but only some species can withstand severe frosts and only with shelter.

Planting lavender in open ground

IN middle lane Only angustifolia lavender can survive in open ground, provided there is shelter. In warmer regions, other species are also grown indoors and in pots.

Planting methods

The plant requires a hole 2530 cm deep. Lavender can be planted singly or in groups. For group plantings, the distance between bushes should be 3040 cm, and for tall varieties up to 1 m.

Interesting! The optimal plant spacing can be determined by the height of the species or variety. Neighboring bushes should be located at a distance equal to their height. To obtain a high-density planting, the distance should be halved.

Group plantings are considered the most effective. The plant can be used for carpet plantings or creating borders. Good results can also be achieved when grown in high beds.

The flower grows well in pots and flowerpots. Such plants are often used to decorate balconies and terraces.

Optimal time for planting

The optimal time for planting is spring, after the night frosts have completely subsided. In the southern regions it is also allowed autumn planting, but it should be done 2 months before frost.

Soil for the plant

Lavender does not tolerate heavy soils with stagnant moisture. The plant feels best on sandy loam or gravel well-drained dry soils with an alkaline reaction (pH = 6.58). The soil should not be too poor or too rich in nutrients.

If the need arises self-cooking soil mixture for filling a planting hole or when planting in a flowerpot, it is recommended to use the following components:

Leaf soil;
Humus;
Sand.

To shift the pH slightly to the alkaline side, add lime or wood ash. It is also recommended to immediately add complex mineral fertilizer to the soil mixture.

Features of lavender care

Lavender does not require ongoing care. It needs watering and fertilizing less often than other plants. However, to obtain ornamental plant you will have to master the intricacies of pruning. At home, the plant needs more attention than when grown in open ground.

Location and lighting for plants in the garden

A sunny and hot location is best for planting lavender. Only in such conditions the plant will delight you with lush, long-lasting flowering and a strong aroma. The shrub can grow in the shade, but only single inflorescences will decorate it.

Worth considering! Lavender does not tolerate wet and swampy soils, so preference should be given to dry places. The plant will feel great on alpine slide or terraces.

Air humidity

There is no need for high air humidity; moreover, dry air is preferable. High humidity often leads to the development of fungal diseases. If rainy weather continues for a long time, it is better to trim the stems.

How to water correctly

Overmoistening the soil and flooding leads to rotting of the roots, so it is recommended to let the soil dry out between waterings. Abundant watering is required only during periods of prolonged drought. The plant tolerates drying of the substrate much easier, but long absence moisture leads to a reduction in flowering.

Features of growing lavender in a pot

Growing lavender in a pot is more difficult than growing it in the garden. It is necessary to observe the watering regime and provide maximum lighting. The main feature of such cultivation is the need for annual replanting and good drainage of water from the pot. Plant growth usually continues until the roots reach the bottom of the pot.

Feeding and fertilizer

Long-term lush flowering requires a large amount of nutrients, so during this period the plant should be supported by the introduction of complex mineral fertilizers. Organic fertilizers, which contain a significant concentration of nitrogen, can be used only at the beginning of the growing season, during the period of growth of new shoots. Later, organic matter should be excluded if you want to admire the flowering.

Advice! Organic fertilizers can completely replace mulching the soil with compost.

Lavender pruning

Pruning is considered one of the most important components of care, and not only the decorative effect, but also the existence of the plant depends on the correctness of its behavior.

Trimming methods

The plant needs constant pruning. This helps maintain decorativeness for many years and maintain the compact shape of the bush.

Trimming to shape

This type of pruning can be called radical, because the shoots can be shortened by 1/3 or even ½. Most often, such pruning is resorted to after a few minutes of frost, or immediately after spring planting of young plants. The bush is pruned down to woody branches to give it a certain shape.

Attention! In radical pruning, shoots are cut down to the level of lignified wood, leaving a small, non-lignified growth of the current year. If pruned excessively, the bush may not grow back.

Sanitary pruning

Held in the spring. During this period, all frozen and dried shoots that could not survive the winter will be removed.

Pruning to stimulate flowering

It is recommended to carry out this type of pruning immediately after flowering, without waiting for complete flowering. It is advisable that most of the flowers in the inflorescence have already faded, but some blooming ones remain. The plant begins to grow new shoots that bloom again.

Advice! In northern regions, where the plant will not have time to bloom again, it is recommended to postpone pruning until spring, since young shoots may not have enough time to form, which will lead to freezing in winter.

Rejuvenation of bare bushes

Lavender cannot be pruned to its stump like many other shrubs. Such pruning will certainly lead to the death of the plant. Therefore, rejuvenation of bushes that have lost their appearance is carried out in several stages. In the first year, one half of the bush is radically pruned, and the next year the second. This technique will preserve the plant and get rid of bare branches.

Pruning for winter

Autumn pruning is carried out in early autumn after the second flowering. The shoots are cut short, leaving 2-3 cm of young wood. In this state, the bush is easier to cover for the winter. It is also worth trimming shoots that are too long, which can be damaged by wind or snow.

Transfer

Lavender transplantation may be required for several reasons:

The bush stopped growing;
It is necessary to move the plant to another place;
It is necessary to divide an overgrown specimen.

The root system of lavender is very powerful, and the roots can go 3-4 m deep. However, the plant tolerates this procedure well.

Interesting! If the root encounters an obstacle, the plant's growth stops. Therefore, when grown in an apartment, the plant must be replanted annually.

Transplant methods

When replanting, the main thing is to try to dig up a plant with a large lump and at the same time apply minimal amount root damage. It is best to carry out this procedure in late summer or autumn, immediately after flowering. The plant needs at least 2 months before the onset of cold weather to properly take root and settle down in a new place.

Plant propagation

Lavender is relatively easy to propagate given the variety of methods available.

Reproduction methods

Lavender reproduces in almost all ways that are used in gardening:

Seeds;
Dividing the bush;
By layering;
By cuttings.

Seed propagation

Lavender seeds germinate quite well, but only if they have been stratified. To do this, you need to sow the seeds in a bowl with a damp mixture of sand and peat and place them in a basement, cellar or refrigerator for several months. The minimum stratification period is 30-40 days. After this, the plants are brought out into the light and kept at a temperature of 15-21 ° C. After the formation of 3 leaves, the seedlings dive into pots several at a time.

Need to know! Some species, such as multicut lavender, germinate well without stratification.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

Mature, well-grown bushes can be divided into several parts. The bushes are dug up with a large lump of earth. The rhizome is cut into several parts with a garden knife, each of which must have roots. The sections are treated with foundation powder or crushed charcoal to avoid rotting. Each division is planted in a prepared hole.

Propagation by cuttings

This method is considered one of the most productive for propagating varietal plants. Lavender is narrow-leaved and can be cut well in both spring and autumn, but for broad-leaved lavender, autumn cuttings are preferable.

Autumn cuttings are more productive, because the plant has many more good shoots suitable for rooting. You can use cuttings from different parts stem:

Apical;
Average;
Lower ones.

However, it is worth considering the characteristics of each type of cuttings. Completely lignified cuttings from the lower part of the stem take root very poorly, but withstand the winter well. Apical cuttings They easily form roots, but their winter hardiness is very low. The best option is semi-lignified cuttings from the middle part of the stem.

The stalk is cut with a sharp knife. At the bottom, all leaves are removed. The cut is treated with root, heteroauxin, or any other drug that stimulates root formation. Then the cutting is placed in moist soil and covered with film. The greenhouse is ventilated daily to avoid fungal infections.

Reproduction by layering

The best time for this method of propagation is spring. A branch of the plant is pinned to the ground and lightly sprinkled with soil. The area in contact with the ground is regularly watered. As a rule, by autumn roots form and the young plant can be separated from the mother plant.

When a plant blooms, the shape of the flower

Lavender flowers are small, collected in an inflorescence spikelet. The color of the petals varies from sky blue to lilac and purple. Some varieties have white and pink flowers. Flowering lasts about 2 months. The first flowers bloom in mid-June. Timely removal of fading inflorescences helps prolong flowering until the end of August.

Problems, diseases and pests of a flower

Lavender is rich in essential oils that repel most pests. It is not for nothing that this plant is actively used in the fight against moths and other insects. However, there is a pest that happily eats lavender. This is a rainbow beetle. A very beautiful insect that can leave a plant without leaves in the shortest possible time.

The most harmful disease is gray rot. Other diseases are extremely rare.

Popular types (varieties)

The genus Lavender has more than 40 species, but most often only 2 can be found in cultivation: angustifolia lavender and broadleaf lavender. Other species are grown extremely rarely.

Lavender angustifolia (Lavandula officinalis)

This species is also known as lavender officinalis or English lavender. Shrub up to 60 cm high and up to 1 m wide. Shoots at the base become woody. The leaves are greenish-gray, as if silvery, narrow. The flowers are bluish-lilac, fragrant, collected in a discontinuous spike-shaped inflorescence. Flowering period: July August. This species is considered the most frost-resistant and can withstand temperatures up to 20 °C. A low-growing variety var. is known for this species. deiphinensis, the height of which does not exceed 30 cm.

Various varieties that differ in flower color or growth form also deserve attention. In ornamental gardening, the white-flowered variety ‘Alba’ or the pink-flowered variety ‘Rosea’ are often used. Joint plantings of different varieties look extremely impressive.

Broadleaf lavender (Lavandula stoechas)

This type is usually called French lavender. It is considered the most beautiful view. Flowers can be of a variety of colors: blue, blue, green, white, pink, lilac. Flowering period: April-July, which is much earlier than other species. The most famous variety is ‘Papillon’ (Butterfly). It is characterized by very long bracts at the top of a fairly dense spikelet.

The main problem when growing lavender is low frost resistance. In fact, only angustifolia lavender can survive in open ground in the middle zone and only under cover. Traditional leaf cover is not suitable for this plant. Covered with leaf litter, lavender will simply dry out over the winter. Spruce branches are considered the best covering material coniferous plants. It is also recommended to mulch the root zone with pine needles.

Answers to readers' questions

Plant lifespan

The lifespan of a plant in cultivation can be 20-30 years, but bushes are often grown for no more than 10 years.

Why doesn't the flower bloom?

Flowering may be absent due to the young age of the plant if the lavender is grown from seeds, or may be caused by care errors. Most often, flowers do not appear for two reasons:

The planting site is too shady;
The plant was overfed with nitrogen fertilizers.

Flower care in winter

In the garden in winter, you need to make sure that the bushes are well covered. When growing in an apartment, it is advisable to take the plant to a cool place for wintering.

The subtle aroma of lavender, enchanting and unique, envelops you, relaxing and calming, and as if transports you to a magical land where worries and sorrows do not exist. But planting lavender in open ground is carried out by owners of summer cottages not only for the sake of the magical smell of the plant. When its seemingly modest fluffy bushes are covered with bright lilac flowers, turning a modest border into a magnificent living carpet, it is impossible to take your eyes off this beauty. Growing lavender in the garden will not be a lot of work, but caring for it will still require some skill.

Choosing a place for a bush

The basis for the full development of a plant in open ground, the high decorativeness of its bushes, lush and long flowering is correct landing. Lavender is photophilous, so it is better to place it in the garden at open areas that receive the maximum amount of sunlight during the day. It can grow actively in the shade, but this will have a bad effect on its flowering. A warm climate is preferable for the shrub; it does not tolerate cold well. In the northern regions, it is better to plant it not in open ground, but in flowerpots, which are immediately put into a warm place when the temperature drops. All plant varieties are suitable for growing in pots.

Excessive soil moisture is contraindicated for lavender; in such conditions, its roots quickly rot. Therefore, the future flowerbed or border should not be laid out in areas with marshy soil or in damp lowlands. It is important to take into account the level of groundwater; it should not come close to the surface. If the soil in the place where you plan to plant flowers does not meet the moisture requirements, good drainage will help solve the problem.

The crop is demanding on the quality and structure of the soil. A soil with a neutral reaction is preferable for it. To achieve this, the area where plants are planned to be planted is dug up, having previously scattered lime or wood ash over it. It will be difficult to provide lavender with proper care if you do not stock up on compost in advance. It will give the soil the necessary lightness and looseness, and also increase its fertility. The answer to such care will be the luxurious flowering of the plant.

Much depends on biological features selected variety. Broad-leaved varieties of lavender are hardier, so they will grow successfully in semi-shaded areas in the garden. It is also permissible to plant them in slightly acidic soil. Narrow-leaved plant varieties will require more complex care. They can withstand cold weather, but high soil moisture is detrimental to them, and if they remain under a thick snow cover for a long time, lavender bushes can die from damping off.

Features of landing

Growing these mountain flowers is not difficult. For this you can use:

cuttings;
layering;
seeds;
mother bush, dividing it.

Most often, planting lavender in open ground is done with seeds. They are sown in the soil in October, deepening 4 mm from its surface and slightly compacting the soil in the garden bed. If the autumn turns out to be dry, the procedure is completed with watering. To ensure that the crops survive the winter cold well, they are covered with a thick layer of snow.

Lavender seeds can be stored in airtight containers for many years without losing their ability to germinate highly.

Successful cultivation of flowers in the garden is also possible with spring sowing. But he will demand preliminary preparation. At the beginning of spring, seeds mixed with wet sand are placed in the refrigerator, where they are stored at low temperature (best about +5°C) for 2 months. After stratification is completed, in May, they can be planted in the ground, using them to create an unusual flower bed or a luxurious border at the dacha. The seedlings will bloom only after 1–2 years, when their root system has developed sufficiently.

When choosing a place for a flower bed, it is worth considering that adult plants often do not take root when transplanted. If it is still necessary, then the procedure must be carried out carefully, making sure that the roots are in a voluminous lump of soil. To make lavender bushes lush, they are placed rarely in the flowerbed, at a distance equal to the maximum height. In border plantings this interval is halved. Then the fence will turn out slender and create the impression of solidity.

It is even easier to propagate the plant using cuttings, which take root quickly and easily. They are placed in loose soil, covered with film, after which all that remains is to provide future seedlings with regular soil moisture. There is no need to deepen the cuttings; a distance of 1-2 cm from the surface is sufficient. After rooting, they are carefully dug up and placed on the prepared area.

Subtleties of fertilizing and watering

Caring for lavender in open ground involves several activities that will have to be carried out alternately throughout the growing season. Plants need to be fed regularly. It is better to use fertilizers with high content potassium and low nitrogen. It is not worth using manure to enrich the soil: an excess of nitrogen in the soil can lead to the fact that lavender bushes will actively branch, delighting with thick, juicy greenery, but form few buds.

Moderation should be observed when it comes to watering. The plant does not like excess moisture, but it also does not tolerate a lack of it well, responding to it with sparse flowering. You should start watering lavender in the garden only when upper layer The soil in the garden bed will dry out well.

High hilling and mulching of the beds will help retain the moisture the plants need in the soil, as well as increase its porosity. Both procedures are carried out regularly - in spring and autumn. They also increase the decorative quality of lavender bushes, influencing the formation of young shoots on their trunks. Rotten leaves are well suited for mulching. You can also purchase special multi-colored substrates in the store that will make your beds even more attractive. The procedure will require attention. To prevent the flower from rotting, the soil at the base of its trunk is left uncovered.

Caring for a plant in open ground involves systematic pruning. It increases the lifespan of lavender bushes. It is carried out twice: after flowering and towards the end of the growing season. When the buds of the plant wither, it is enough to shorten the stems on which they were located by 1-2 cm. Autumn care is more intensive; it involves removing most of the old shoots from the bush. No more than 4-5 young stems are left on it.

Preparing for winter and possible difficulties

Successful cultivation of lavender in areas with harsh winters, where the thermometer drops to -25°C, it is possible, but for this it will need to be reliably insulated. After cutting the flowers on the eve of the first frost, they should be tightly covered with spruce branches. It will help the plant survive a difficult period for it.

Dry foliage should not be used to cover lavender bushes. Due to the increased moisture of the soil underneath, they can be affected by rot. In such conditions, the probability of damping off is also high.

To ensure proper care of lavender in the garden, it is important to arm yourself with knowledge about possible problems benefits that growing shrubs can bring. The greatest danger to it is gray rot. Regular inspection of the flower bed with the removal and immediate burning of infected areas of the plant will help prevent its rapid spread and destruction of plantings.

Gray mold creates favorable conditions To reproduce the pennies, they lay their larvae in it. An ugly white foam appears on lavender bushes, looking like saliva and protecting the insect's offspring from predators. It does not harm them, but spoils the decorative effect of the plantings. It is not difficult to remove it from plants; just wash off the formation with a water jet.

Planting lavender in a summer cottage is a solution that is beneficial from all sides. Its single bushes will become an elegant decoration of a flower bed or garden, and numerous ones will form a lush border, from which it will be impossible to take your eyes off. During their long flowering, they fill the air with a delicate, mesmerizing aroma. Growing this mountain shrub is also practical: dangerous garden pests - the Colorado potato beetle and the codling moth - cannot tolerate its smell. Just plant the plants between the root crops, and you won’t have to worry about the safety of the harvest.

Caring for lavender cannot be called difficult, but you still have to devote time to it. Choice the right area for planting, proper watering and fertilizing, mulching and hilling the beds, pruning - performing these simple procedures will allow you to achieve the desired result.

Today there are up to 30 types of lavender. The most popular are:

Interestingly, the ancestor of lavender in pots was a broad-leaved plant variety that requires special care at home. In addition, the flower is valued not only for its charming appearance, but also for its beneficial properties.
It is widely used for manufacturing, cooking, and also for medicinal purposes. As a result, the flower fell in love with enterprising fans of indoor plants.

Secrets of growing lavender on the window

To grow lavender in a pot, the following conditions must be met:

The container for planting the plant should be about 2 liters.
The diameter of the pot is at least 30 centimeters.
Drainage made of fine gravel or walnut shells is placed at the bottom.
The soil must be alkaline.

Even if these requirements are met, indoor lavender pleases its fans with flowers for a short time.

As soon as the root system of the plant feels the bottom of the pot, it must be replanted. Otherwise, the lavender will stop growing, begin to hurt and eventually die.

To ensure that the roots of the flower have access to air, it is advisable to leave the hole at the bottom of the pot free. It is better to arrange drainage carefully and carefully, rather than in bulk. In addition, the plant needs feeding, which is carried out from time to time with special ones. As a result, lavender will appear in a pot at home to the delight of indoor plant lovers.

Basic rules for caring for a southern beauty

When lavender grows in a summer cottage, it is a familiar sight. Delicate and cute blue or purple flowers have won the hearts of many gardeners. But they don’t want to part with them for a long time, so they grow them in houses on windowsills. The flower amazes not only with its splendor, but also with the pleasant smell emanating from the buds. So, proper care of lavender in a pot at home benefits not only the plant, but also many pleasant moments for its fans.

We provide comfortable conditions

Many people call blue mountain flowers a charming guest from the south. Therefore, for successful plant growth it is important to observe the following conditions:

lots of sunshine;
loose sandy soil;
infrequent watering.

When transplanting a plant into a larger pot, prepare a suitable substrate consisting of one part humus, sand or gravel and two parts turf soil. First, the container with the plant is generously moistened so that the roots of the flower are not damaged during replanting. Together with the earthen lump, the lavender is transferred to another container, where it continues to develop successfully.

To obtain loose soil, ordinary soil is thoroughly mixed with sand and covered with drainage located at the bottom of the pot.

When properly caring for lavender, the main thing is not to overdo it with watering.
The heat-loving plant does not need constant soil moisture. Otherwise, it will stretch upward, the leaves will first lighten, then wither, and “goodbye lovely lavender.” In view of this, it is advisable to water the plant no more than once every 7 days. During periods of high humidity, the gap between waterings can be increased to 10 days. The best option is to water when the top layer of soil is completely dry.

In winter, the bush is pruned and sent to a cool room. The cuts are made several points above the place where the leaves begin to grow. Watering is carried out once every 14 days.

In order for lavender to flourish on the windowsill for a long time, it needs regular feeding at least every 2 weeks.
Any fertilizer for indoor plants will do.

Houseplant lovers have noticed that lavender grows best in light-colored pots.

Dark-colored containers attract heat from the sun, so they quickly heat up, which has a detrimental effect on the roots of the plant. Such a seemingly trifle, but the life of a delicate southern flower depends on it.