A socket box is a plastic cup, inside of which a socket or switch is mounted. Installing a socket box is a fairly easy process, the technology of which depends on the material from which the walls are made. Learn about do-it-yourself socket mounting methods and get valuable advice from experts with a brief description of each of them.
Do-it-yourself installation of socket boxes in a brick wall
The main rule of high-quality installation of a socket box in a brick wall is a responsible and accurate approach to this process. The installation of socket boxes is carried out in several stages:
- before installing the wires - in this case, crowns are first made, a socket box is installed, and then a cable is connected to them;
- most often, socket boxes are installed after laying wires and determining the location of switches and sockets;
- installation of a socket box after completing the rough work - first, the cables are bred in the room, then leveling plaster is applied, and only after it has dried, the socket boxes are installed.
- the presence of a flat plane that needs only fine finish, thus, the socket box will not be recessed into the wall, when installing the socket box before finishing with plaster, there will be difficulties in finding it;
- the appearance of the socket box improves, it does not get dirty with the solution.
Start work on the installation of socket boxes should be with the preparation of materials and tools, such as:
- a crown for a socket for brick walls, with a diameter of 65 to 85 mm, for ease of installation of a socket, choose a socket with a slightly larger diameter, because cables and additional parts are also installed inside;
- building or laser level- allow you to install several socket boxes strictly in a horizontal position;
- as a measuring tool, use a tape measure or ruler, you will also need a pencil to mark the mounting locations of the sockets;
- stock up on socket boxes, previously defined sizes;
- a gypsum composition will help to fix the sockets, for applying which prepare a spatula, and for mixing the composition - a container and water.
Do-it-yourself installation instructions for socket boxes in a brick wall:
1. Make a drawing of the preliminary location of the sockets in the room. According to the data received, make markings on the wall.
2. Prepare a hammer drill with a special nozzle, 0.6 cm in diameter. Mark the drilling site and start this process. The crown should be centered on the brick, thus simplifying the workflow.
3. Do not press down on the punch, work on the impact mode in combination with drilling. Remove the central part from the prepared hole. If there are several socket boxes in the same plane, remove the jumpers between them.
4. To remove dust, use a regular or construction vacuum cleaner. After that, treat the hole with primer. After the primer has completely dried, continue work.
5. Socket boxes are installed freely inside the hole. After that, fill the hole with the previously prepared gypsum-based compound, spreading it evenly on the wall. Install the socket, press into the hole, remove excess mixture with a spatula. Align the device in relation to the level, after an hour check the quality of installation.
Installation of socket boxes in a brick wall, the price is determined by the amount of work, the type of socket box and the complexity of the work.
Technology for mounting socket boxes on concrete
There are two types of sockets:
- old;
- new generation.
The first ones are made of metal, they are distinguished by the presence of steel stops, they are not securely fixed on the wall and easily fall out of it. It is recommended to use for installation of sockets in wooden buildings. In other cases, install new plastic sockets - they are well held in the wall, due to the solution with which they are fixed.
In the process of mounting the wall with a socket, a puncher is required, on which there is a special crown, as well as victorious drills and teeth. The diameter of a standard plastic socket is 6.8 cm. Make a slightly larger hole so that the socket fits easily into it.
Please note that plastic sockets are used for installation only in concrete or brick walls. If it is necessary to replace the old outlet with a new one, first de-energize the room and dismantle the old outlet.
For these purposes, a screwdriver is used. Remove the cover and unscrew the screws on the wires. Remove the old socket, remove the old base, which is held on the dowels.
This is if the old outlet was external. Install the crown in the puncher and drill a hole for the socket. Its depth should not exceed five centimeters. Remove concrete and debris with a vacuum cleaner, and use a hammer and chisel to correct the shape of the hole. Build an entrance for the supply wires, connect them to the socket. Build a plug on the wire installation side.
Type in a spray bottle hot water and wet the hole. Combine gypsum and putty, knead the solution, apply it inside the hole. Align and fix the socket in relation to the level, additionally fix it with a solution. Wait for it to dry completely and only then install the outlet. Installation of socket boxes in concrete wall- a fairly easy process, for which it is enough to study all the technological points associated with the correct drilling of a hole in the wall.
We install a socket on drywall - the cost of installing a socket in a block
Special socket boxes are installed on plasterboard walls. The principle of fixing this device is based on special paws installed on the side or rear. The front part of the part is distinguished by the presence of four screws, twice as many as compared to concrete ones.
The two outer screws secure the appliance and the socket or switch. The remaining screws are slightly recessed into the mechanism, they perform the function of fixing the frame. The screws are responsible for the paws on the socket, when they are rotated, they fix the device in the desired position.
By turning the screw with a screwdriver, the foot begins to move and fix the socket on the wall. The back of the device is distinguished by the presence of special holes, blanks for wires. Cut out one of them and install the cable. Try to make sure that the wire goes into the socket at the back. Thus, the process of installing sockets or switches is greatly facilitated. Use a utility knife to cut a hole.
Instructions for mounting a socket box on a plasterboard wall:
1. Prepare a tape measure and take measurements at the location of the outlet.
2. In the process of performing these actions, be guided by the following standards:
- the socket must be at least 300 mm from the floor;
- in the presence of washing machine in the bathroom, install the outlet 100 cm from it;
- the distance between the floor and the socket in the kitchen must be at least 120 cm.
3. Make a hole in the drywall. For these purposes, there are different ways:
- use a clerical knife, with its help a hole is cut along a pre-drawn diameter;
- drill a hole with a drill, and then cut with a knife;
- crown for spotlights - perfect option, which produces a high-quality hole with smooth edges.
The crown is mounted on a screwdriver or on an electric drill.
There are situations when a hole in the wall is already ready and a previously removed wire sticks out of it. In this case, first cut a hole for the wire in the socket, and then fix it on the wall.
One pair of screws fixes the socket box on the wall, and the second one adjusts the legs that also hold this device. When the socket is slightly pulled into the hole, loosen the screws a little and check the quality of fixation. The following is the process of installing switches and sockets.
Features of mounting sockets in socket boxes
The aluminum wire that comes out of the socket is connected to the outlet. However, if its length is insufficient, an intermediate terminal block is installed that acts as a conductor. choose black wires that have contact paste. They perfectly connect with aluminum and copper elements.
A single-core rigid copper wire must have a current reserve and high strength. The terminals are laid on the bottom of the socket. The length of copper wires should not exceed 1.5 cm.
Connect the terminals to the wires, fix the socket. Check the evenness of the fixation of the socket using a level. You will need a screwdriver to install the screws. Be sure to de-energize the room before performing work.
Please note that sockets are installed after finishing.
Installation of socket boxes to plaster
Installation of any socket begins with the construction of a hole. To fix the device in the wall, a solution based on alabaster or gypsum is used. There are three ways to create holes for the socket:
1. Using a 7 cm crown. This part is distinguished by the presence of teeth that easily pass through the wall. The crown is mounted on a drill or puncher. To avoid damage to the outlet, take the wire from it to the side and turn off the power to the room in which the work is carried out. Fully sink the crown into the wall. To drill the center hole, use the Pobedit based drills. In order to correct the size of the hole and make it more accurate, use a chisel.
2. The second method involves the use of an impact drill or hammer drill. In this case, the socket box is installed on the wall and its contours are outlined. With the help of a drill drill, drilling is performed along the contour of the socket box. Remove with a hammer and chisel internal filling holes.
3. Creating a hole with a grinder - this method is relevant if you do not have a drill or a puncher in your house. With the help of a grinder, a hole is cut out in concrete, along a previously outlined contour. Pay special attention to the areas where the wire is located. The depth of the circle should be less than the diameter of the socket, bring it to right size chisel.
The next step just involves fitting the hole for the socket. The socket must fit freely into the hole. In inner part gypsum mortar will be installed, which performs a fixation function.
Prepare a gypsum-based solution, this will require:
- plaster of two options - construction and medical;
- alabaster with water.
Place the gypsum in a container, gradually stirring it, add water. Prepare the solution in small portions, as its shelf life does not exceed 7 minutes. Fix the socket with this solution. Put the mortar into the hole, install the socket and check its evenness with a level. Please note that the screws must be horizontal to the floor.
After setting the solution, continue to work. Lay the plaster in the side parts that have not been filled with mortar. Coat around the socket. after the solution has dried, remove the excess.
Use a butterfly to connect two sockets together. This additional element connections. With its help, several sockets are fixed. Double and triple sockets are installed in the same way as single ones. The main requirement is the evenness and horizontal position of the screws.
Installation of the socket video:
Installing outlets in concrete is a responsible task, which will require care, compliance with safety precautions and certain skills.
The workflow consists of several stages and includes surface marking, making strobes, laying wires, installing socket boxes, fittings and finishing work.
Preparatory work
Before starting installation work, you need to prepare tools and materials. You should decide on the areas where the sockets will be mounted. It is necessary to draw a diagram on which the installation locations of sockets, switches and wire lines will be provided.
Note! In residential premises, it is customary to mount sockets at a height of 30 - 40 centimeters from the floor. If we are talking about a bathroom, toilet, corridor or other utilitarian premises, the level of fittings should be chosen based on practical necessity.
When laying wires, you should follow some rules:
- Wiring should be located 15 - 20 centimeters from the ceiling.
- Wires should only diverge vertically or horizontally. Building codes prohibit running wires diagonally, creating zigzags or twists between wires.
- Distance between strobes and gas pipeline should not be less than 35 centimeters.
Tools and materials
Installing an outlet in a wall implies the following tools and materials:
- devices for creating a strobe (grinder or strobe cutter);
- perforator for drilling nests;
- crown for working with concrete, a drill bit, a nozzle in the form of a spatula;
- knife, wire cutters, screwdriver;
- putty knife;
- roulette;
- plaster and alabaster;
- deep penetration primer;
- socket box;
- wires;
- pencil.
markup
We mark the center of the axis on the wall, where the wires will be laid and the holes for the sockets will be placed. To perform this work, we use a pencil and a tape measure.
If in the future it is necessary to install adjacent sockets or a whole block of devices, it is necessary to maintain a certain distance between the mechanisms. The recommended gap is 7.1 centimeters (average center distance of the sockets).
In the center we draw 2 axes: vertical and horizontal. The lines should be long enough - this will allow the installation of the socket box as evenly as possible.
Making holes
There are three ways to create holes in a wall:
- With the help of a concrete crown.
- Using an impact drill, puncher and a drill bit.
- Using a grinder (angle grinder).
The first option (crown for concrete)
The cutting element of the crown is a diamond-coated part. You can use victorious nozzles. The heavy-duty material makes it easy to break any hard surface. The cut is smooth and rounded. In the inner part of the nozzle there is a drill for concrete, designed to center the cutting element.
Note! The nozzle must have a larger diameter than the dimensions of the installed socket.
We put the drill on a given point and begin to immerse the crown into the material. When the cut is completed, we hollow out the remaining concrete. To do this, use a hammer and chisel.
The second option (drill, perforator, drill bit)
If there is no nozzle-crown for concrete, a hole for the socket can be made drill bit. It is best to make a hole with a hammer drill, and if a tool is not available, an impact drill will do. In the latter case, the process will be more laborious.
The circle is drilled along a pre-drawn line. The step is made as small as possible. In order to control the insertion depth, it is recommended to use an insulating tape tied to the drill. As in the first option, we finish the work with a hammer and chisel.
Third option (Bulgarian)
Bulgarian - not The best way doing round holes, but more suitable for creating squares. However, in the absence of another tool, you can make a hole for the outlet in the wall with the help of a grinder.
We select a special disk - for concrete. We draw a square instead of a circle. We make 4 cuts in the wall along the drawn lines. The depth of cuts slightly exceeds the size of the socket. We remove the remains of concrete with a hammer and chisel.
Fitting the hole to the size of the socket
When the hole is made, we check how the socket fits under it. Since the hole was originally made larger than the diameter of the socket, there should not be any problems with the width. The main effort is usually made to fit the desired depth.
We bring the hole to a depth at which the socket box will sink into the niche by about 5 millimeters. The depth margin is provided taking into account the laying of the fixing material (gypsum or alabaster mortar) into the hole. In addition, a certain place will be occupied by a bend in the wire suitable for the device.
Advice! To facilitate further work, it is recommended to trim the edge from the edges of the hole. We do this using a knife.
Thanks to the depth adjustment, the installed box will be hidden in the hole along with the outer skirt. This will allow you to install the device in the same plane with the wall. If the skirt is not drowned, the result will be a gap of the rosette frame from the wall by 1 - 2 millimeters.
Wiring
The work is done in the following order:
- We check the insulation and cable cores for defects.
- Remove the cover from the distribution box.
- We start different ends of the cable into the junction box - on the one hand, and into the installation box - on the other. In order to make it convenient to make new connections in the future, we start the cable with a certain margin (10 - 15 centimeters).
- We prepare a strobe at the top of the hole for the wire. We use a hammer with a chisel or a puncher with an impact nozzle to make a strobe. If the wall material is not solid, even a chisel is suitable for making a strobe.
- Wires ( corrugated pipe with a cable inside) we put it in a strobe. The wire should lie freely in the niche, without interfering with the socket. WITH reverse side The device has a special slot in which we place the wire.
- Wire fixation can be carried out alabaster mortar. The recommended step is 250 millimeters.
- We cover the defects with a putty composition.
As a fixing composition, you can use not only alabaster, but also gypsum (medical or construction). To prepare the solution, pour the base into a container. Add water in small volumes, trying to get a solution of medium density.
The composition must be used very quickly, because after a couple of minutes it will be very difficult to work with it, and after 5 minutes the solution will become completely unusable.
Preparation and installation of socket boxes
We turn off the electricity supply. We try on the box to the hole. There should not be any obstacles for mounting the socket flush with the surface. All unnecessary elements are cut and deleted.
We clean the bottom of the hole from dirt and dust, and then prime it. Surface treatment with a primer is important to ensure adhesion of the fixative to the wall. Let the primer dry.
- We squeeze out a plastic fragment in the box, through which we stretch the cable.
- We process the walls and bottom of the recess, the outer part of the socket with a solution.
- We install the device (or block) in the solution. Align the top edge of the socket with the level of the wall.
- Checking with building level horizontal mounting lugs.
- We remove the excess solution that got into the box.
Note! If you have to install a block of outlets, the sockets are connected through a structural adapter.
Installing a double socket
The docking of the socket boxes is carried out by a connector (another name is a butterfly). On the sidewalls of the sockets there are special grooves for connecting a butterfly. Thanks to these grooves, you can connect not only 2, but also many more socket boxes.
Work order:
- We do markup. We count the distance from the floor. At the desired height, draw a strip (strictly horizontally).
- We apply socket boxes (connected by a butterfly) to the strip. We mark on the strip the central parts of each socket box.
- We make holes (one of the three methods mentioned above).
- We make connecting strobes between the holes. You can do this with a grinder.
- We lower the wire into one of the holes.
- Further work is carried out in the same way as in the case of one socket box.
Finishing
Finishing work can be started only after the complete drying of the fixing composition. If you hurry up and start plastering the strobes and holes earlier, there is a high risk of displacement of the mounted device.
Finishing is done as follows:
- We process with a primer all noticeable defects, which may include bumps, chips, holes. Once again trim the surface around the sockets.
- When the wall is dry, proceed to puttying the surface. After the putty dries, sand the coating. As a result, it is necessary to obtain the most even concrete surface.
- Apply another layer of primer and wait for it to dry.
Hardware installation
After graduation finishing works We begin the installation of outlet mechanisms. Before starting work, we check the absence of power in the network. It is recommended to cut off the current supply directly in the switchboard. To do this, you need to turn off the circuit breakers.
We connect the wires to the socket depending on the type of socket (screw, spring). Here we consider the installation of sockets with spring terminals.
We prepare the wires, for which we remove the outer protective sheath of the supply cable. We clean the ends of the veins by 10 - 12 millimeters. We direct the cores to the terminals of the socket mechanism. We insert the yellow-green ground wire into the central terminal, send the blue wire (zero) to the left, and connect the white wire (phase) to the right terminal.
Working with wiring requires a certain qualification, and it is not recommended for non-specialists to take on it. However, if you have a basic knowledge of electrical engineering and right tool, then, subject to safety precautions, it is quite possible to independently cope with the installation of an outlet in a concrete wall.
Home electrification is one of the main stages in creating ideal living conditions. But to bring electricity - this does not mean that everything will be reliable. A lot of things depend on how the installation of the socket boxes is carried out in a concrete wall, or in drywall. They are also called installation boxes. Without socket boxes, it is impossible to make normal sockets that will hold even under heavy loads. Let's talk about what work needs to be done and what is required to install these items.
What are sockets and their types
Socket boxes are called special boxes made of certain materials (plastic, metal, etc.). These elements are used when mounting electrical points (sockets) on the walls. The main purpose of the socket boxes is to ennoble the hole in the wall and at the same time they make it suitable for further installation of sockets or switches.
In addition, socket boxes are also used when lowering or moving sockets as a junction box. This makes it possible to carry out all the work as conveniently as possible without making additional chasing of holes in the wall and without taking out the old wiring. Socket boxes can now be found on store shelves in round, square, rectangular and with rounded edges.
Various sockets
Previously, all sockets were made of metal. They were called sleeves and were used everywhere. To date, metal sockets are used only in wooden houses, where it is necessary to comply with the conditions fire safety. Among the disadvantages of such sleeves are:
- very weak fastening of sockets and switches;
- the sleeves do not adhere well to the solution, which leads to the outlet falling out;
- there is also a high probability of damaging the wires with sharp edges.
When to install?
To be honest, there are practically no restrictions for installing socket boxes within the time frame. They can be mounted both before the start of work, and after their completion. The only exception are walls that have not yet been plastered. Installation of socket boxes in a concrete wall is also not recommended after pasting it with wallpaper, there is a high probability of damaging the coating itself.
Some electricians decide to save their time and know the thickness of the plaster layer in advance. To be honest, this method is rather doubtful, since no one can say the exact values, and subsequently there is a high probability that the socket will stick out strongly from the wall, or vice versa - it will be recessed into it.
According to the rules, socket boxes, like junction boxes, must be mounted flush with the wall, or go into it no more than 2 mm.
Using outlet holes
markup
The marking of the route includes the designation of the locations of the outlets. They are determined by checking with the project or wiring diagram.
The socket box is mounted in concrete only after a hole has been formed using a crown or a perforator with a spike. Fixation is carried out using a building mixture (alabaster, putty, etc.). The locations of the outlets are marked as follows:
- From the very beginning, it is required to mark the desired vertical distance from the floor on the wall. If we take according to the standards, then all sockets should be located no higher than 40 cm, and switches should be approximately at a height of 90 cm.
- Next, a socket box is applied and outlined along the contour with a marker or pencil.
- A crown is selected according to the size of the socket and a hole is drilled.
Drilling process
There are several ways to make a hole. The choice of tools depends entirely on the material of the wall. The easiest way is to make recesses in foam concrete and other porous concrete. One of the most difficult materials is ordinary monolithic concrete.
Holes for sockets can be made in three ways:
- With the help of a special crown;
- Using a drill (a wall is drilled around the perimeter and then broken out);
- With a hammer and chisel.
Making an outlet hole
As already mentioned, making holes in concrete with your own hands is the hardest thing. For this reason, we will consider this method in as much detail as possible.
To make recesses, not those crowns are used that can be used to work on porous concrete and drywall. This requires a heavy-duty diamond-coated nozzle. This guarantees its strength. Additionally, a high-alloy metal is used as a base. Although such crowns are effective, their cost is quite high. So not everyone can afford such a thing.
Additionally, it is worth noting that making recesses using this technique takes a lot of time. The tool itself gets very hot and needs to be allowed to rest. For these reasons, making 30-40 holes can take 2-3 days, which is quite a lot. To save time, it is much better to make a drill along the contour of the hole and then knock out the concrete with a chisel yourself.
Installation and termination of socket boxes
The process of carrying out work on the installation of socket boxes is carried out in a certain sequence. Observing it, you can carry out the work efficiently and without further alterations. So, the workflow is as follows:
Then just wait about an hour and you can use the socket for its intended purpose. This instruction will allow you to carry out the installation as correctly as possible and at the same time it will take a minimum of time to complete. Even with independent work there should be no difficulty.
Things to remember
The very first thing to remember is that important role when embedding plays the consistency of the mixture. It should be moderately thick, otherwise it simply will not flow into all holes and will not create the desired adhesion. A highly liquid consistency will also not allow you to fully work, as it will simply flow out of the hole.
Do not install with hammer blows. There is a high chance of damage to the box. And the effect of this will be small. It is best to use gypsum to seal the hole. You can also use gypsum plaster, but its application requires knowledge of some rules.
The first thing is good adhesion to the spatula, which requires frequent wetting. Gypsum does not have such properties and it is much easier to spread it on the socket. The second is uneven freezing. So, if the top is already dry, then inside there is a high probability of fluidity of the material. This leads to the fact that by leveling the socket, you can deform the surface, which is already flat.
Installation method in drywall
The installation of socket boxes in a concrete wall is slightly different from the sequence of work on a surface exposed by drywall. The fact is that the element will be located in the space between the wall and the sheets, where there is no place to catch on. The installation sequence is carried out as follows:
- From the very beginning, you need to determine where the wires pass and drill a hole with a crown.
- We bring the wires out and isolate them.
- Next, we stretch the ends of the wires through the socket and fasten it to the drywall. At the same time, the adjusting screws allow the special legs to diverge, and the sleeve is fixed tightly.
If the drywall is attached to the wall with a building mixture, then there are also some nuances here. Although this is rarely done, there are times when this method is the only way out. So, first you need to prepare two crowns: for drywall and concrete. First, take the first one and cut through the sheet. Next, we change it to a diamond crown and make a recess in the concrete. It should be borne in mind that the sockets in this case must be used shallow to minimize the cost of force. After drilling, you need to knock out everything that remains in the recess and then embedding is done in the same way as in a conventional concrete wall.
As a rule, the installation of socket boxes does not take much time and is not difficult. For this reason, they can be performed independently without involving specialists. Be sure to stock up on a few power tools in the form of a hammer drill or drill. This will make it possible to solve the issue of cooling, since while the first “unit” will work, the second will rest, and so on in turn.
socket box- this is a plastic cylinder that is mounted on the wall for the subsequent installation of sockets or switches in it. There are type-setting sockets (as in the picture) and double, triple, quadruple, etc.
Installation of socket boxes in concrete walls
Also, socket boxes differ in the type of installation: for monolithic bases and for sheet materials. Standard sizes socket box: diameter 60 mm, depth 40 mm.
Consider mounting the socket box in a monolithic base.
First of all, you need to decide where the socket will be located, decide how many pieces you need and choose the height from the floor.
If you are making socket boxes for sockets, then the recommended height is 25-50 cm from the floor, if socket boxes are for switches, then the height is 90-120 cm from the floor.
Also, it is necessary to consider from which side the electrical wire will be supplied in order to properly make holes in the socket.
In the example, the wire is fed into one socket from above.
Then it is necessary to knock out a recess in the wall according to the size of the sockets, so that they are flush with the wall. It is best to knock out a perforator with a spear nozzle.
Also, you can use the grinder with diamond disc to cut along the contour, and then knock out the middle with a puncher. In this case, you will get an even, neat recess, but there will be a lot of dust from this method.
To glue the sockets, putty or tile adhesive is suitable. If you want to immediately proceed with the installation of wiring, then I recommend using alabaster (gypsum plaster), its setting time is about 5 minutes.
In our example, putty is used.
Dilute it with water, and apply with a spatula into the recess.
We take the sockets and insert them into the recess, but not sinking too much.
With the help of the level, we drown the sockets flush with the wall.
We press the level horizontally and vertically to each socket.
Align the sockets horizontally. We use the holes for self-tapping screws on the body of the socket box as a guide, apply a level and align. If you have more than three socket boxes, then you also need to make sure that they do not bend, all holes for self-tapping screws should be on the same straight line.
Having exposed, we cover the edges, leaving a small unsmeared area on top, for laying the wire.
After laying the wires, you can cover them completely.
In the same way, you can install any number of sockets.
Installation of socket boxes in hollow structures.
Let's consider an example of mounting a socket box in a ventilation unit.
The wall thickness of this block is about 3 cm, which is unlikely to allow installing a socket box on putty, but, as you know, there are no hopeless situations.
We cut the hole with a grinder with a diamond disc according to the size of the sockets.
Using pebbles, pieces of drywall and all sorts of crap, we set the sockets according to the level.
Now carefully foam the edges using mounting foam.
We stretch the wire and foam to the end.
After the foam has completely hardened, cut off the excess.
And the last thing I haven’t mentioned yet is the fastening of the socket boxes to drywall or other sheet materials.
This will require a crown of the desired diameter, as well as special sockets.
You can identify them by their appearance, they have two additional hooks along the edges.
In order to install them, it is enough to drill a hole equal to the outer diameter of the socket, insert it, and then tighten two screws along the edges until the socket is completely pressed against the surface.
That's all.
Happy installation :)
How to install a socket in a concrete wall
When it is refurbished, it's time to start understanding where we will have the furniture, what place will be for the TV or the refrigerator ... And it often turns out that a new place for some devices that are not equipped with an outlet leads to the next not being worn or stretched.
“In general, why do you need these housing transfers?” Think.
Then the order appears - to install the socket. But the wall is made of strong Soviet concrete: hitting a chisel won't work here, it's not a brick. But it does not matter! Armed puncher, and today we will participate in a competition where a particular fortress will fight with the ingenuity of a Russian man!
What do we need
We shouldn't ignore these items as some of them depend on your health.
- perforator;
- More corners with 8mm diameter;
- top for chasing;
- Caps PPE;
- Building goggles (required subject);
- pencil;
- brush and water;
- Gypsum plaster, blade and all mortar preparation solutions;
- Copper triple cable;
- coatings;
- Installation of wires;
- Rosetta;
- Screwdriver.
So let's go to work
- Find a place in the apartment where you can connect your future.
Perhaps it will be an old socket on the same wall. You don't need it and you don't normally use it. Well, a good reason to get rid of it, because it's been so long, tired of you, I thought you decided to take it apart and connect it with a cable from the new connector that it will need;
- Take the submole and connect it to the place in the wall where the next socket is to be installed, circle this space;
- If you want to drill a hole, you can take a beaver crown here, if you don't, then take a hit and start drilling holes for the length of the drill.
Now turn the other hole in the middle;
- Align the socket to the point where the connector is inserted and drill holes every 30 cm to secure the embedded wire;
- Wait for the brewery to cool down and move to the top;
- Using a pike, start punching through the concrete from the hole that forms it.
The process is lengthy, so be patient. Also, don't forget that you will need to keep expanding the hole that was created from below, trying to use the brush;
- Now that the bulk of the work is done, try again in the sub - it should be fully inserted into the hole, and sitting in it definitely does not give out any of its parts.
This is important for the correct and smooth installation of the outlet;
- Take a brush, dip it in water, and thoroughly clean the hole and trick under the wire;
- Attach the wire in the stem to the clamps and make sure it doesn't stick out any longer;
- We are now preparing the solution so that its consistency is clean;
- Turn the spatula into the hole and insert the plaster with shields, pull the wire into it, level it and let it harden the plaster;
- Leave the plaster with the remaining plaster and let it freeze;
- Once the solution has hardened, you can proceed directly to the installation of the socket.
Take out the socket and connect the red (white) and the blue, insulated from the insulation, to the phase (L) and neutral (N) connections. The yellow wire is responsible for grounding, and if it is not in your home, you cannot clean it. Then insert this knot into the podrozetnik so as not to interfere with its separating lepeski (rest) and the ears of the screws were placed on the screws themselves, which are screwed into the podrozetnik;
- Tighten the bolts in the jars and make sure that the nest on all sides is installed as close to the wall as possible.
Also, make sure it is positioned horizontally inside the subcontractor with no curvature;
- Penultimate phase. Remove the plastic housing from the socket and insert it into place;
Socket connection
Everything is almost ready, and the most important point- socket connection. Now you must go to the ground and turn off the apartment.
If you don't know where the cars from your dwelling are, check with your neighbors where their cars are and, as a result, yours if you are operating with an exception. Now turn off the one that is responsible for supplying electricity to the right side of the living quarters.
Instructions for installing outlets in concrete walls
If you don't know, disable everything.
Well, now you can safely participate in the connection. Pull the wires out of the new plug with the old ones and tighten the PPE caps on top. That's all, we hope this article helped you!
Installation guide for sockets in a concrete wall
Every builder and homeowner or homeowner works with the important task of replacing electrical wiring throughout their lives.
Replacing electrical installations is a responsible process that requires close attention and attention.
To ensure the quality of the wiring, enough time and attention must be given to prevent this issue from occurring in the near future.
Wiring types
Wiring is carried out in two versions: internal wiring and external.
Older houses often have external electrical appliances.
Installing windmills in a concrete wall
This is inappropriate and dangerous. To replace an old socket with a new one (or a switch), the old one must be disassembled. Before starting electrical installation electrical voltage should be disabled by input machines.
Tools
To start the installation, you need to have a set of tools:
- drilling or drilling, crown or drill;
- plastic bag (very popular and easy to install);
- socket kit.
First mark the place to install, and then rotate the required circle size.
Completing the installation and fastening of the juniper will help building materials: a mixture of gypsum, alabaster or already prepared quick-drying mixtures.
Installation should begin by marking the location of the underlays in the concrete wall (mark the circle with a pencil or marker).
Then, using a puncher or drill, turn the circle to the desired size. We're trying to include a piece in it. If there are irregularities in the niche, remove them with a chisel, screwdriver and hammer.
On the side where the wires fit, remove the plug and place it in the hole.
Proper installation of sockets in a concrete wall does not work without Strublen channels to cover electrical wires. For these jobs you will need:
- angular Grinder(Bulgarian);
- discs for concrete.
Finishing work
The main rotor is fixed in the wall using alabaster or mortar.
Go back to the installation screen in the concrete wall: it needs to be leveled with a water scale, it must not go down on the wall because it is impossible to mount the nest and they stick to it, it was not necessary because
It's ugly and dangerous.
Block the closet in the wall with alabaster, plaster. Before applying the fixing mortar, it is necessary to drill drilled hole. Then a spatula or structural spatula will need to fill the hollow hole and cover the resulting mixture and the self-curing outside. Insert a box of extra mix to fill empty molds.
Alabaster and cold freeze for 5-10 minutes, and then we will continue to work until the installation of the outlet.
Proceed straight from the socket installation, loosen the connectors, fasten the wires and terminals into them. Fasten the screws around the edges that are used to secure the socket to the back box. Then attach the plug to the center screw. Installation stopped.
Making holes in a concrete wall is a lot of work. The material is hard, needs 
in a specialized tool.
Particularly difficult is the task of installing a hidden socket that requires an appropriate recess.
An additional difficulty lies in the need to make through hole, but a recess having a certain size.
Solving the problem will require skills, experience, certain knowledge.
The question is not very difficult, but needs detailed consideration.
What is the best drilling
Drilling a hole in concrete is a test for strong-willed people. Builders try to use tools that are appropriate for the material to be processed. 
Holes in concrete are often attempted with Pobedite (carbide) drills and the result remains unsatisfactory.
The hardness and abrasive qualities of concrete quickly disable the cutting edge of the drill.
The most successful tool that can deal with concrete is the hammer drill, which uses its own technique other than drilling.
Making a nest with a grinder is somewhat more difficult. You will need to install a diamond cutting disc, but you won’t be able to complete the task entirely; you will have to finish the result with a puncher or an electric drill.
Works performed with solid types of concrete in load-bearing walls panel houses require the use of an appropriate tool. You should not waste time trying to operate with unsuitable devices, you should immediately use specialized devices.
Using a puncher
Drilling concrete is useless.
The perforator drill copes with the task quite confidently, since a different principle is used - not cutting, but chipping small particles of concrete. The process is called rotary percussion drilling. 
Making holes is possible in two ways:
- Sequential contouring of a pre-marked circle, with a diameter of 2-3 mm over size socket box.
- Using a special crown with diamond or victorious teeth.
The work is simple, but will require compliance with the sequence of actions:
- The hole for the socket box is marked with a necessarily marked center.
- The direction of the strobe is outlined - recesses for the cable channel.
- The depth of the socket is measured, marked on the drill with an allowance of about 3-5 mm using a strip of electrical tape.
- The central hole is drilled.
- Holes are drilled sequentially along the contour of the circle.
The distance between them must be made as small as possible.
- The central part of the nest is knocked out with a chisel and a hammer.
Cutting the strobe is done with a puncher with a special blade-shaped nozzle that forms a neat groove.
The process is quite lengthy, noisy, but effective.
Crown for socket boxes
Using a crown makes it possible to form a neat circle of the nest. Typically, a 65 mm crown is used, corresponding to standard size socket box. 
The use of a crown facilitates marking - just mark the center of the hole and drill a hole with a diameter of 7-8 mm.
The crown deepens into the wall at a sufficient distance with a small margin (3-5 mm).
The nest is removed with a chisel. Dense stubborn concrete is not easy to knock out, a few additional holes in the center will help ease the effort. Sometimes you have to almost completely drill out the central part.
The process is noisy, slow, but quite effective.
conventional drill
Using a drill will not create the desired effect. A carbide-tipped drill is much stronger than a conventional drill, but working with concrete is too difficult for it. 
The exception is soft materials used for the manufacture of interior partitions:
- foam concrete;
- Brickwork;
- Slag or plaster blocks.
Carbide drill is able to work with soft types of concrete.
Installation of socket boxes: installation rules
Procedure:
- markup;
- Nest contouring;
- Knocking out the central parts with a chisel.
Instead of a crown, various attachments with circular saws of a suitable diameter can be used.
The manufacture of a strobe is done by creating multiple entries to a shallow depth (1.5-2 cm) located on the axis of the future wire.
The entries are connected to each other by pulling a rotating drill at an angle along the channel line. It is more convenient to make two narrow strips, passed at a distance of about 1 cm from each other, with the subsequent removal of the jumper between them.
Inside the strobe, a plastic cable channel is installed, or a wire is laid in double insulation.
Both options are equally possible, choose the one that suits you best.
Cutting out a grinder
Using an angle grinder, colloquially referred to as a grinder, is not the best option, but in the absence of other options, it will do. 
The technique for making a nest is significantly different from the methods used when working with a hammer drill or an electric drill.
The grinder does not allow you to make a neat round hole of the desired diameter.
We have to work with more rough, exemplary methods. But the manufacture of a strobe to the socket is facilitated, since the angle grinder makes straight furrows perfectly. Procedure:
- Wall marking;
- Strobe penetration;
- Outlining a square with a side 2-3 mm larger than the outer diameter of the socket;
- Removal of the center of the square, the inner strip of the strobe;
- Installation of a socket box and cable channel;
- Filling in extra space sand-cement mortar, gypsum, alabaster mixture.
Safety
Work with concrete is accompanied by education a large number dust, small fragments of stone.
The sharp edges of the particles are dangerous for the eyes and respiratory organs, so goggles and a respirator (gauze mask) must be used. Working with power tools requires compliance with specific safety rules. 
It is forbidden to use defective tools that have damaged power cords.
During operations with a hammer and a chisel, it is necessary to monitor the strength of the hammer nozzle on the handle.
Hold the chisel perpendicular to the work surface. The riveted ends of the chisel must be removed.
Important Points
Dust formation is a serious problem during operation. Using a vacuum cleaner can significantly reduce the amount of dust and fine particles.
Hard, dense concrete grades (on load-bearing walls) are recommended to be moistened with water during operation. The material is less dusty, becomes more pliable.
Watch the detailed video:
Drilling holes must be carried out with full confidence that there is no danger of damage to the electrical cable.
If there are thick reinforcing bars in the walls, it is recommended to use a diamond-coated bit. It slowly but surely overcomes the reinforcement.
Doing
When installing modern sockets or indoor switches, their mechanisms must be placed in a special plastic box - a socket box. Today, almost all electrical fittings are made in such a way that it allows you to install several sockets or switches in one row.
Agree that one outlet in the kitchen is no longer enough, and the outlets installed on different ends walls are not always convenient to use.
Therefore, often an electrician is designed in such a way that several points for connecting household appliances are located in one place. It is very practical and functional.
Some masters unknowingly assemble not under one multi-gang frame, but install free-standing sockets next to each other. This design does not create the impression of a single whole device, because of this, such an installation does not look very nice.
When installing a socket block, professionals always use a decorative frame for two, three or four windows.
But sometimes it happens that at the final stage of installation, sockets can hardly be installed in boxes, due to the fact that they overlap each other.
The decorative frame in this case also does not fall into place.
This is due to the fact that when installing the socket boxes, the distance between their centers was not respected. Ideally, the distance between the centers of the sockets should be 71 mm. And when installing a large number of boxes, they begin to shift relative to each other or deform under the action of the putty mixture.
Good afternoon dear friends!
I am glad to welcome you again on the Electrician in the House website. In this article, we will talk about one simple and, along with that, useful thing For installation of sockets in brick walls, concrete and gas blocks. Those people who are professionally engaged in electrical installation know how difficult it is sometimes to install a block of five outlets evenly.
With the help of a simple device, which will be discussed in this article, you can install socket boxes with an accuracy of a millimeter.
Things like this don't work industrial enterprises, therefore, the masters independently make homemade products suitable for them. This device in the slang of electricians is called socket mounting template. There are also names such as conductor or layout, but they all perform the same function.
Plank for installing socket boxes
Most plastic outlet boxes are 68mm in diameter and about 45mm deep.
Boxes from different manufacturers may differ slightly in size and characteristics, but the functionality is the same for all - being assembled into a block, they provide a center-to-center distance of the installed mechanisms of 71 millimeters.
To prevent the boxes from dancing relative to each other during installation, they must be rigidly fixed to each other.
How are boxes assembled into a block? Consider the Schneider Electric socket boxes for indoor installation. If you look closely at the front, there are special latches for docking several boxes.
You can also dock the boxes using special connectors - plugs.
At first glance, the matter seems simple - after collecting the boxes into a block, the required center-to-center dimensions are automatically obtained.
Why is a template needed at all for installing socket boxes? Everything fits together so well.
However, it should be borne in mind that in order to fix the socket, the entire space between the walls of the hole in the wall and the socket itself should be filled with mortar.
Therefore, the laying of the solution in the nest is carried out in excess. And when you start to press the box into place, the solution will begin to come out of all the cracks, filling the voids, resulting in a very strong fixation of the socket box.
But when pressing the box, it is necessary to apply a fair amount of force, under the influence of which the plastic box can simply burst or change shape (become oval), and a block of several boxes will surely blur in different directions.
At the final stage of installing the mechanisms of sockets and switches, it is impossible to compensate for all these shortcomings with calipers.
Moreover, during installation, the boxes must be clearly leveled so that the ends do not protrude and are not recessed, but are flush with the wall. When installing the socket block with your bare hands, this can be done, but a lot of time and effort is spent on this.
It was to solve such problems that I made myself such a device as a template for installing socket boxes, which saves not only time, but also nerves.
How to make a template for installing socket boxes with your own hands
Let's proceed directly to the manufacture of our device.
For this I took aluminum corner size 40x40 mm. The length of the corner depends on the number of socket boxes installed in the block, plus the necessary indents from each edge for attaching the corner to the wall (approximately 10 - 15 cm on each side). I decided to make a layout for five socket boxes, so I took a 60 cm long corner.
By the way, it is not at all necessary to make a template from a corner, and even more so from aluminum.
You can take any rigid material of arbitrary shape, who has what, for example, a pipe profile. The convenience of the aluminum template is in its lightness. By the way, there were ideas to make a layout from a din rail, there is no need to drill holes there.
Now, in the center of the rib, where the boxes will be attached, you need to mark the line. On both sides of the corner, using a tape measure, we find the center and mark a line with a pencil.
Along the marked line, we will drill holes for mounting the socket boxes using self-tapping screws.
Our socket mounting template practically ready. Let's start drilling holes. To do this, a screwdriver and a metal drill with a size of 3 mm will help us.
We retreat from the edge of the corner 12 cm and drill the first hole.
To prevent the drill from slipping off the intended drilling site, I recommend that it be punched.
Then we measure the distance between the centers of the socket box screws and transfer it to our template. I got 60 mm. This will be the point for drilling the second hole. Similarly, we drill holes for all the sockets in the block.
Trying on a box on a plank
We retreat 5 cm along the edges of the corner and drill two more holes.
How to fix a socket in a concrete wall
During installation, this will help to press the entire structure against the wall.
Now we fix all the sockets on the finished layout, we get an even design that can be inserted into the wall without distortions and bends.
Let's see what distance we got between the centers of the boxes relative to the drilled holes:
To install the block of sockets, using a template, we throw a little solution into the hole in the wall, put the wires into the sockets and attach the template to the wall.
First you need to drill holes in the wall. We fix the corner to the wall with dowels.
The convenience of this design is that all boxes are installed with the exact distance relative to each other, and there is no need to constantly align and correct each box until the mortar is completely dry. Also, deformation of the boxes is excluded, and all of them are exposed flush with the wall.
You can make sharpening around the edges to make it convenient display template horizontally.
I hope, dear friends, the article was interesting for you, and this device will help you facilitate and speed up installation.
Who has any opinions? Maybe someone already uses this design or have opinions on how to improve it. Let's share our experience.
Socket boxes are required in almost all places where electrical appliances are installed. The final appearance depends on how evenly one or more socket boxes are installed. installed sockets, switches and other installation products. Of course, the evenness of the installation of the socket box does not 100% decide the final result - it is possible to screw the socket or switch perfectly even into a crookedly "smeared" socket box. However, this does not mean that one can be irresponsible about "smearing" round installation boxes (this is the official name of the sockets).
A crookedly installed socket box can cause a lot of suffering during the fine installation of installation products. Therefore, even installation of installation boxes is strongly recommended.
By the way, socket boxes do not always have a rounded shape - there are square installation boxes designed for four modules, two in a row. And in general, there are rectangular models that, according to their purpose, replace several single socket boxes in a row. However, the most common are the round ones, so we will focus on them.
At first glance, installing a socket in a concrete wall seems like a simple matter. In principle, this is true, everyone can "smear" the installation box. The only point that many have difficulty with is the evenness of the installation, especially several combined sockets.
The method that I want to describe is far from new. These few additional operations will allow you to qualitatively install several socket boxes in a row in any walls - concrete, brick, aerated concrete.
The first stage - markup, you need to outline the horizontal and vertical axes of each socket. When installing several boxes in a row, you need to withstand between them correct distance so that future socket or other modules are correctly installed. The optimal distance between the axes (centers) is 71 mm. However, there are products in the connecting elements of which there is a distance of 70-72 mm. When installing 2-3 socket boxes, this does not really matter, however, for 5 boxes in a row, every millimeter is important.
Before installing 5 points in a row (vertical or horizontal), you should clarify the specific size of the installed electric points of a particular series. For good - assemble the sockets on the table in a row using connectors (usually included with the boxes) and screw all 5 sockets (or switches). Then you will find out whether the size along the axes is set by the manufacturer or not. Often 5 sockets in a row may not correspond to the size of five sockets. If there is no opportunity to try on sockets, a distance of 71 mm is maintained between the axes.
If the outer width of the box is 70 mm. (with a front border) - such socket boxes are installed without problems with a distance between the axes of 71 mm. If the width is 72 mm, then it will be difficult to "narrow" the axes of the boxes. For 2-3 modules in a row, a distance of 72 mm can be maintained, however, for 5 in a row, it is better to choose other products.
So, the axes are marked - the socket boxes can be mounted both in vertical and horizontal rows. But some series of rosettes are not designed to form vertical rows (rare, but it happens), so you need to clarify this point.
The second stage is the selection of holes for installation. You can do it in concrete. diamond crown for a resourceful drill or grinder. An easier way is to drill holes in a circle with a small drill and knock out the middle with a perforator. The optimal hole diameter is 75 mm. - then any socket will freely enter and there will be a gap for putty. The depth of the hole is about 50-60 mm. The box must enter the wall completely. A cleanly installed socket box should be flush with the fine wall putty or slightly recessed relative to the plane of the wall.
For brick, plaster and others, more soft walls(relative to concrete) a hammer drill bit will do. This crown can also drill concrete walls, but then its life is greatly shortened. In brick walls, it is drilled with impact, in foam concrete and gypsum - in drilling mode without impact.
When the hole is made, a socket box (or a group of socket boxes) is tried on, if everything enters without problems, it is swept over and primed.
The next stage is the creation of a pattern. Many installation boxes come with connecting elements for grouping. Connectors can be structurally part of the socket box or be completed with a separate part. In our installation method, connectors are completely unimportant, they may not be at all. The role of a reference template that maintains the required distances between the fixing screws is performed by a self-made pattern.
For the manufacture of patterns, any piece of the profile is suitable, for example, PN27X28. In the profile, holes are marked and drilled for the mounting screws of each socket box, so that there is a distance of 71 mm between the left screws of the first and second boxes (and all subsequent ones). Well, the distance between the screws in one box is 60 mm.
The profile-pattern should be longer than the entire group of sockets so that there is a place to attach to the wall. For this, holes are also drilled in the profile. Further, all the boxes are screwed into the template from the flat side, for this, screws are used that come with the socket boxes.
The assembled structure is tried on in a previously prepared recess. Nothing should prevent the profile from standing tightly against the plane of the wall.
Well, the final operation - smearing. A wide range of materials are suitable for fixing socket boxes in concrete, aerated concrete and brick. It can be a gypsum mixture: alabaster, thick fugen, rotband or goldband and others. fit well and cement mixtures including tile adhesive. Most importantly, thanks to the template, a quick setting of the putty is not required.
The putty is stuffed into the prepared hole and the sockets are pressed in from above. It is necessary to press until the plane of the template profile fits snugly against the plane of the wall. The template is aligned on the horizontal axis of the group of socket boxes (or on the vertical one, when forming a vertical row) and, having drilled holes, is fixed to the wall. All excess putty that has crawled out from under the boxes is removed with a small spatula. Putty will also definitely get inside the sockets - it is removed without problems after removing the template.
When smearing, it is important to ensure that not a single socket protrudes from the plane of the wall. If some boxes fell a little deeper than the plane of the wall (which is unlikely) - it's okay.
After setting the putty mixture, the pattern-pattern is unscrewed, the remaining sags are cleaned off with a spatula. Installation completed!
For those who love "reliable reliability", we can advise additional strengthening of fastening with self-tapping screws. Right through the bottom of the socket, a hole is drilled in the wall and a self-tapping screw with a plastic dowel is screwed. In the walls of foam concrete and aerated concrete, preliminary drilling is useless - the self-tapping screw is twisted just as it is. It is convenient to use self-tapping screws with a press washer.
Like it or not, but the putty mixture usually shrinks a little, so the place of smearing requires finishing putty. That's why best solution for the installation of electricians there will be installation until the final puttying of the walls.
Tip: Mounting screws get lost all the time when it comes to finishing sockets and switches. Therefore, it is recommended to tighten the screws into place immediately after removing the template. And so that they do not interfere with the finishing puttying - the screws are twisted deeper than the plane of the wall.
How to install sockets before plaster
In general, it is easier to install on finished plaster, however, to expose the sockets before plaster no one forbids. Another thing is that it's a little more complicated.
In order to qualitatively expose the installation boxes before plastering, it is necessary to have already exposed plaster beacons. Substituting the rule for beacons, you need to control that the sockets do not protrude from the plane of the future, plastered wall. It is best to even deepen the boxes a little with respect to the rule by 1-2 mm, then there will certainly not be problems with pulling the plaster with the rule.
The smearing algorithm practically does not differ from the one described above, the only difference is that the template is not attached to the wall closely, but taking into account future layers. Controlling the plane with the rule for beacons, they set up a template bar. Any wedges are inserted between the template and the wall. After the fixing solution has set, the fixing screws are removed or sunk deeper, the protruding wires are neatly folded in the sockets themselves.
With this sequence of work, you need to carefully monitor that the top and bottom of the socket boxes do not protrude from the plane of the beacons. To solve this problem, it is better to use a wide strip for making patterns.
Installation of boxes for non-modular devices
Such situations are rare, but they can bring a lot of difficulties if they are not taken into account. If non-modular sockets or switches (which do not fit in a common frame) are installed in one row, then a minimum distance must be maintained between them. Otherwise, further installation will be impossible!
As an example of such a scheme, you can take a cheap electric floor heating thermostat - this product does not have modularity and does not fit into a common frame with other outlets. Of course, there are thermostats that fit the general framework, but they are more expensive and are tied to a specific collection of installation electrics. Therefore, if a device without a common frame is used, it is imperative to maintain a distance!
So, the vast majority of sockets, switches, thermostats and others, in their final form, have a width of 86 mm. Accordingly, between boxes for non-modular sockets there must be a minimum distance (along the axes) of 86 mm. But this is if it is "in grinding" and not exactly, what if the switch turns out to be wider? Therefore, it is better to make the minimum distance between the axes of the installation boxes 90 mm. or more.
Well, the article has come to an end. For installation of socket boxes in concrete and other materials - it is more than enough.
The socket box is a special tool that is mounted in various designs, it is used to install sockets and switches. The question is how to install the socket so that in the future there are no hitches in the repair work when the old switches need to be replaced.
In contact with
Classmates
Types of sockets
To begin with, it is worth deciding what types of sockets are. They are usually divided into two groups:
- On concrete walls - such products are designed for concrete, brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete and block expanded clay walls. For such socket boxes, you need to prepare a hole for installation in advance, and fix them with a solution.
- On a plasterboard wall - such products are designed for plasterboard walls, chipboard structures, plywood structures. Such socket boxes are fixed with the help of spacer legs in the mounting holes.
After choosing a socket, you need to do preparatory work.
Preparatory work
It consists in assessing the wall on which the socket box will be attached, as well as the selection of the product itself according to the size, shape, and material from which it is made. All these parameters are completely different.
There are situations when you need to install a single unit (these are several interconnected socket boxes). At the same time, it is important to remember about the center distance (i.e., the distance between the centers of the socket boxes) and the same diameter of the products themselves.
Note!
The installation of the whole block itself is carried out according to the same principle as the installation of a conventional socket box.
The next step is the installation of the sockets.
Hole for socket
Mounting tools and choice of installation method
The socket box is installed using the following tools:
- ruler pencil,
- Drill for concrete,
- chisel with hammer,
- Crowns for drilling concrete (the diameter of the crown must match the diameter of the socket),
- Bulgarian (plus a canvas for concrete),
- Construction or medical plaster, alabaster,
- paper knife,
After preparing the tools, you need to choose how the socket box will be installed, or rather, how to prepare the recess for the socket box. There are three such ways:
- punch the right place in a brick, concrete or aerated concrete structure, and then fix it with mortar,
- equip a niche in a plasterboard wall or plywood structure and fix the socket box with special paws,
- instead of a socket box, use the mounting platform as a base for a switch or socket.
Having chosen the installation method, you can start marking the wall for the future outlet.
How to markup correctly?
Before you start the installation, you need to mark with a pencil and a ruler the place where the socket will be located (a cross of two lines with right angles). All measurements are taken from the covered floor, otherwise you need to add about 5 cm more. Professional electricians, when marking, adhere to some standards:
- in rooms, sockets are installed thirty cm from the floor,
- in the kitchen, the socket is installed about 120 cm from the countertop,
- switches are installed 90 cm from the floor.
You don't have to follow these rules exactly, and markup can be applied to your requirements. Also, if you don’t have a puncher or grinder, you don’t have to immediately run to the store and buy, because such a purchase will be quite expensive. Tools can be rented.
You can also measure the location for the switch with your hand. To do this, you just need to go to the wall, lower your hand and make a note in a more comfortable position. If this switch is intended for several people, then the distance can be calculated from the average length of the arm.
Install the socket at a comfortable level
Installation of a socket in concrete
The socket box is installed in a concrete wall using a special solution (gypsum or alabaster is suitable for this purpose), but before that you need to drill a place where the socket box will be located. There are several ways to do this.
One of them is to install using a crown (a special tool in the form of a pipe segment), the size of which is 70 mm. The socket usually has a diameter of 67 mm, sometimes a little more. In a circle, the crown is equipped with pobedit teeth (cutting segments made of hard alloy), with the help of which the circle is cut. With the help of this crown and a puncher, a hole is drilled in a concrete structure. This must be done carefully so as not to touch the wire. You need to drill until the crown is completely in the wall.
Note!
To make the crown easier to cut through the wall, you can make a hole in the center with a drill.
After that, the crown is pulled out, and the hole itself is refined in depth using an impact bit or chisel.
The second way is to drill a hole for the socket using a drill or a puncher with a drill bit. To do this, the socket box itself is applied to the wall and outlined. Then, using an impact drill or puncher, you need to drill several holes: in the center and in a circle. The holes should go as deep as possible into the concrete and be close to each other. After that, it remains to make a hole of the required size.
The third method is the fastest, but also the most dusty. It will require a grinder. First you need to make the appropriate markup: we already have a cross, now we need to draw a box on the wall, and draw four lines, making a square out of a circle. Then the matter remains small - to walk the grinder along all the marked lines. The main thing here is not to touch the wire. After that, it remains to finish off the hole according to the required size with a chisel.
In the photo, installing a socket in a concrete wall
Adjusting the place under the socket
After preparing the place, you need to check whether it fits the socket. If the hole is made with a crown, then the width will fit, you don’t have to worry about it. Here you need to look at the depth. The depth of the hole should be such that the socket box falls through five millimeters there. At the same time, it is worth remembering one little trick: there is an edge on the socket, which is better to cut off. Thus, the socket will fully fit into the hole, which will allow the decorative frame of the switch to fit snugly against the wall without leaving a gap. After the socket box is installed, a strobe is made in the structure for planting the wire into the product. On the reverse side, the socket has slots for wires. Insert the wire into this slot, and then install the socket in the hole. Now it remains only to tell how to fix the socket in the wall.
Making a mortar and fixing the socket box
To prepare a gypsum solution, you need to take a vessel, pour gypsum into it and, stirring constantly, add water. As a result, you need to get a homogeneous creamy mass. You need to start working with the solution immediately, otherwise after five minutes it will harden. With this solution, the socket box is fixed in the hole. Before the installation itself in the hole, you need to wet everything well and wait for the water to be absorbed.
After that, the solution must be applied with a spatula into the hole, and insert the socket into it, not forgetting the wire. You need to insert it so that it is not exposed, so that later there is no bump and unnecessary problems. After that, you need to fill all the side cracks with the solution and putty around.
Installing a socket in drywall is even easier. To do this, you need to cut a hole in the drywall, the size of a socket. After that, it is fixed in the wall with spacer legs. Now you need to do putty seat(a special place for installing a socket) so that the structure is durable. This installation does not require many tools, all work can be done with a knife, screwdriver and spatula.
