Installation of the socket outlet box. Do-it-yourself installation of socket boxes in a brick wall. Fastening the wire for the socket boxes in the strobe

The power supply of any premises should ensure the possibility of prompt connection of electrical installations (including household appliances). For this, sockets placed on the walls are used. Since the connection of sockets to the power cable must be reliable and safe, the Electrical Installation Rules (PUE) prescribe the presence of a housing for each socket that provides protection against electric shock. Sockets made for surface mounting (including outdoor ones) have their own housing that meets safety measures. For devices built into the wall, installation of socket boxes is provided.

Socket outlet boxes perform multiple functions

• Structural: the box must be firmly fixed in the wall, and securely hold the outlet itself.
• Electrical safety. Boxes for brick, concrete and plasterboard walls are made of dielectric materials and prevent the electrical potential from entering the bearing structures from the contacts.
• In addition, the socket itself is also protected. Moisture, dust, and foreign objects do not penetrate inside the case.
• Fire safety. If a fire occurs inside the socket, the flame does not penetrate beyond the socket.
• The aesthetic component is also present. When installing socket boxes in a brick or concrete wall, seat looks neat. A flat surface is obtained around the outlet.

Requirements for sockets

Uniform set of rules describing the installation of flush-mounted boxes electrical sockets, does not exist. Electrical installation regulations require compliance general requirements fire and electrical safety. In this sense, installing a box for an outlet is no different from installing junction box. There are building codes and regulations (SNiP) that determine the geometry of the placement of outlets in the room. Well, common sense has not been canceled.

We will try to combine all the conditions under which the installation of socket boxes will not cause problems during the operation of electrical equipment.

Optional, but useful requirements are the ability to connect several sockets to each other using standard clamps. This allows you to assemble a structure of any length.

We proceed to the direct installation of sockets

Before starting work, it is desirable to have a complete set Supplies. Power cable, required amount socket boxes (with a small margin "for scrap"), building mixtures, PVA glue. The power tool with which you plan to cut holes.

markup

Regardless of whether the power cable is laid in advance, or you will ditch the walls under it at the same time as drilling niches for sockets, the installation of socket boxes begins with careful marking.

It is impossible to guess where electrical appliances will be placed. Perhaps tomorrow you want to make a rearrangement in the apartment. Therefore, sockets are installed according to the following principle:

• For universal use- at a height of 30 cm from the finished floor (meaning the height from the laid finish coating).
• For large household appliances ( washing machine, refrigerator) at a height of 1 meter.
• If the socket blocks are mounted above countertops or bedside tables - at least 10 cm from the surface.
• A special case is the installation of sockets for a TV suspended on the wall. This is an individual project.
• But the distance between the centers of the socket boxes is a constant (for group installation, in a row). This value for installing standard sockets is 71 mm.

The horizontal position must also be taken into account. From corners, ceiling, floor, door frames- a distance of at least 15 cm. From heating radiators no closer than 50 cm. cookers. The rules for the installation of electrical installations and SNiP prohibit the installation of sockets and the laying of wires on walls directly facing the street.

Making holes

There are three main ways. There are no advantages or disadvantages between them. It all depends on what tools and accessories you have. There is no fundamental difference between installing socket boxes in a brick or concrete wall, so the technology is similar.

1. Crown on stone (concrete, brick). The classic and fastest option for drilling a wall for a round box.
   The diameter of such a nozzle is usually 70 or 75 mm. Given the outer dimensions of the sockets (61–65 mm), it is better to use a larger crown. Firstly, filling an extra gap with a solution is easier than squeezing a box into a tight hole. Secondly, you have a small margin in case of a miscalculation in the markup. Then, adhering to the strictly central markup, we drill holes to a depth that exceeds the length of the socket by 10-15 mm. You will not be able to make ready-made holes, most likely the installation site will look like this:
   It's okay, the core is easily knocked out with a chisel or bolt.
   
   

   Advice! What to do if rebar gets in the way of the crown? (Only applies to concrete walls).

   It is not difficult to identify the metal under the crown. You will definitely not be mistaken: the penetration stops, a characteristic knock and vibration appears.

   Most right advice- change the location of the outlet. The rebar has a pitch of 15-30 mm, if the placement is not so important - move the hole by 3-5 cm. Before that, try to determine which rebar you hit: vertical or horizontal. This will help avoid further mistakes.

   If it is impossible to move the socket block, you will have to remove a piece of fittings. To do this, knock out the "glass" of concrete to see the metal. Break the space around the reinforcement with a bolt a couple of centimeters. A wire with a diameter of 5–6 mm can be broken with a chisel.

   

   Thicker reinforcement will have to be drilled.

   The best option is to cut this area with a grinder. We will explore this method further.

2. Drilling holes with a drill. Not the easiest way, but in the absence of a crown, one or two seats can be made. The fundamental difference is that the contour is not drilled along the central marking point. It is necessary to draw a circle with a diameter of 75 mm around it. Then you need to drill holes along the contour as often as possible.
   And then, as in the first version - a bolt or chisel.
   

   Tip: Don't be afraid to break the integrity of the wall around the holes. Of course, I want everything to look beautiful even at the preparatory stage: holes, as in the picture, a perfectly even row. You will just spend extra time, all the irregularities will be plastered and covered with a finishing surface.

   By the way, if you are installing socket boxes in brick wall, drilling will not be a difficult task. The material is soft, easy to drill even without a puncher: a conventional drill with drill bit.

   If you are making a niche in red brick, try to get between the cement layers. Less destruction (concrete breaks out in chunks) and easier hole selection.

   

3. Installation of socket boxes with a grinder. This method is not used because of the lack of a drill or crown for concrete. If you have a grinder, then there is a perforator. It's just another technology, no better or worse than the others.
   

   The only condition under which this method is indispensable is working with reinforced concrete wall special strength. You just blunt an expensive crown, and grinder discs cost a penny.

   Together with strobes for power cable, just cut out rectangular or square holes with a margin around the sockets.

   

   Looks definitely rough. On more or less processed walls, the hand does not rise to such blasphemy. And if the finish is still far away - this is the fastest and effective method. Also suitable for brick walls.

   

4. The most unaesthetic way is a hammer drill in jackhammer mode. It should be resorted to only if other methods are not possible. Nevertheless, the technology is there and we cannot ignore it.
   

The end result is ready-made holes for socket boxes with connected strobes. We clean niches with a brush or construction vacuum cleaner, and be sure to prime.

Installation of boxes

In accordance with the markup, we try on the assembled blocks. Installation of socket boxes is carried out regardless of the quality of the holes. If the box rests on an incorrectly drilled niche, it must be expanded. Markup is everything! Do not be lazy at this stage, even if you do not want to pick up a chisel and litter again.

Experienced installers fix the sockets on some guide, fix the ideal location, and then cover the boxes with alabaster.

If you simply seat the socket boxes in a liquid solution, they can move before they dry completely. You'll have to beat everything up again.

The wires must be left with a margin of 10–15 cm. When installing sockets, you will remove the excess, leaving a small installation loop.

The eternal question: install socket boxes before or after plaster

If the surface is covered with drywall - there is no such problem. And what to do when installing socket boxes in a brick or concrete wall?

In fact, from a technical point of view, there is no difference. You can accurately calculate the landing height: the main thing is that the socket does not stick out, even by 1 mm. If the edge is recessed by 3–5 mm, this is not a problem. The mounting pad of the outlet will rest against the wall, and use longer screws for fastening.

The problem is rather psychological - it's a pity to drill a plastered surface.

When choosing a sequence (before or after plastering), one nuance should be taken into account: if the edge of the installed socket boxes protrudes above the wall plane, how will you evenly apply the plaster?

Therefore, the best option is to drill niches, then plaster the walls (holes for sockets with jagged edges will remain), and then carefully clean the edge of the holes. Before you mount the socket boxes, you will have to restore the markup.

A simple tip for beginners: To prevent alabaster or gypsum from hardening too quickly, add PVA glue to the water. After mixing, the solution crystallizes 2-3 times longer.

True, the final drying will have to wait several hours. But the mixture will be many times stronger.

Related videos

The socket box is a metal, and more often a plastic cup, into which a socket or switch is installed during electrical work. Installation of this product is not difficult, but for each of the wall materials (brick, concrete, gypsum or wood), installation will have its own nuances. Next, we will tell you how to install a socket in a concrete, brick, wood and plasterboard wall, providing visual photos examples, video instructions and short description for each technology.

What to pay attention to before installation

Before you decide to install the product in the wall, you need to choose the right type of socket. To date, the following varieties of so-called glasses for sockets and switches are on sale:

By choosing suitable option products, you can proceed to the preparatory work, which we will talk about now!

Insertion preparation

So, in order to install a socket box with your own hands, you must first prepare the following set of materials and tools:

1. Perforator or electric drill;
2. A crown on gypsum, brick or concrete (depending on which wall will be chased) or a drill bit;
3. Building level;
4. Marker;
5. Spatula and gypsum putty (if drywall or wood, then no need);
6. Chisel and hammer.

Having prepared all the materials, you can proceed to the installation of the socket in the wall. Now we will briefly consider how to insert and secure a glass under the outlet in each of existing options walls.

Mounting technologies

In concrete and brick

If you need to install a socket in a concrete or brick wall, then you need to proceed as follows:

1. Make markings on the surface with building level and a marker in accordance with the wiring diagram in the house. can be chosen at its discretion, according to the norms of SNiP and GOST this moment not stipulated. All you need is to put a cross in suitable place(the center of the future hole), lean the socket in the center and circle with a marker.
   
2. Using a perforator and a suitable bit, drill the strobe 4-5 mm deeper than the height of the glass you are about to install. If there is no special cutter at hand, simply drill a group of holes with a drill with a drill bit in a circle and knock out the core with a chisel and hammer. Another way is to carefully make a square hole with a grinder with a diamond disc.
   
   
   
   
3. When you manage to make a round strobe, clean it from the inside, and then try on the socket so that it fits well into the seat and there are no further difficulties with installation. Immediately cut a hole in it for the wire entry and bring the wires inside.
   
   
   
4. Dilute the solution in order to smear the socket in a concrete or brick wall. A good solution can be obtained from gypsum putty, alabaster and water.
   
5. Moisten the hole and use a spatula to pour the solution inside, as shown in the photo. After that, carefully fix the glass flush with the wall, while ensuring that the screws on the sides are strictly parallel to the floor (otherwise the socket cannot be installed evenly).
   
6. Coat the edges and remove any excess solution so that the glass is clean and ready for further electrical work after the putty has set.
   
   

like this in a simple way you can independently install a socket box in a wall made of brick, concrete, foam block or even aerated concrete. Be sure to watch the video instructions provided below to see clearly the whole essence of the installation.

Video tutorial on fixing a block of glasses in a monolith

in drywall

Attach the socket to drywall partition way easier. Here it is no longer necessary to dilute the solution and knock out the core of the strobe with a chisel. As we said earlier, there is a special glass with presser feet that easily fix the socket in drywall.

In order to set the glass in plaster wall, you need to do the following:

1. Apply markings on the surface by analogy with the previous technology. We examined in detail the layout of the drywall wall when we talked about.
2. Cut a hole in the bottom for the wires and insert the product inside the strobe.
3. Tighten the screws on the sides until the box is firmly fixed inside.

How to mount a socket in drywall

That's all you need to do to install a socket box in a drywall wall with your own hands. As you can see, everything is very simple and even a beginner in electrics can install the product. Please note that if plaster partition will be additionally tiled, you need to act a little differently. The video below shows the technology for attaching a glass under ceramic tiles.

How to install on tiles

The second way to make a block of sockets in a tile

An integral part of any major repair is the installation of sockets. According to all the rules this stage a socket box is required, which is one of the main installation elements and is a guarantee of safety.

It is mounted directly into the wall, followed by wires and connecting the outlet to the mains. If necessary, this simple element of the electrical field allows you to repair or replace the outlet.

Sockets and their purpose

Not many people know what a socket box is and what it is for. This question may arise only if it is necessary to repair with a change in wiring. But the solution to the problem usually depends on experienced builders. A small repair with a change of installation boxes for sockets can be done independently.

The socket box is usually represented by an original glass made of metal or plastic, fixed in a hole made in the wall. Required for the internal location of the socket mechanism. Install switches in it. From above, the entire structure is closed with a decorative frame, which makes the socket boxes invisible to the eye, and therefore not everyone knows about them.

And not everyone understands why you can’t just place the outlet directly into the wall without a box. First of all, it is necessary that the socket complex be assembled with high quality and work perfectly.

Other purposes of the sockets include:

1. Guarantee of strong fixation of mechanisms of sockets, switches and similar devices. The fastener function is usually performed by the socket screws or spacer tabs of the installed devices.
2. It acts as an additional dielectric insulator between the socket (switch) and the wall of the room.
3. Execution of the distribution function. boxes when installing electrical wiring without it.
4. Implementation additional protection from accidental fire.

In order for the mounting box for sockets and switches to correspond to the listed functions, you should responsibly approach the choice. For the future, this will serve as a guarantee of the smooth operation of devices and the electrical network.

Choosing the right boxes for sockets

Boxes designed to accommodate sockets and similar devices are divided into several varieties. Such a classification is necessary for their competent installation with the subsequent implementation of the above purposes.

Exists whole line classification parameters, among which there are several main ones.

By type of surface to be installed

Socket boxes are necessary for installation in various rooms made of different materials. It can be brick, concrete, foam blocks or aerated concrete.

By given parameter their design may differ in some way. For example, a box for mounting in drywall has additional tabs for secure fastening.

According to the material of manufacture

Sockets are either plastic or metal. To install the box, the first option is usually used, which has a large assortment of models and shapes:

1. Round - are widely used. Under them, it is easy to make a hole in the wall and select the necessary groups of devices for installation.
2. Oval - are distinguished by the presence of a large amount of space, which allows you to make a supply of wire necessary for mounting devices and the disconnection process. If necessary, you can purchase boxes that can accommodate up to 5 mechanisms.
3. Square - have a large supply of space for wires and allow the installation of dimmer elements, " smart home and a number of other devices. Able to place up to 4 mechanisms.

Metal sockets are not widely used because they are conductors electric current. But this is the option of choice in houses made of wood.

By number of outlets

Demand is for single boxes, designed for mounting single sockets. But boxes for placing 2, 3 and 4 outlets are also gaining popularity. The distance (center-to-center) in such socket boxes is 71 mm in accordance with the standards.

It is customary to subdivide boxes by size - inner diameter and depth (40 - 60 mm). Additionally, there is a mounting diameter (60, 64 and 68 mm). The best option The choice is a socket box with a diameter of 68 mm and a depth of 42 mm. If it is necessary to carry out wiring without distribution boxes, a depth of 60 mm is suitable.

List of required tools

When carrying out large-scale repair work, the necessary list of tools is usually at hand. But also minor repairs requires prior selection of tools.

For mounting the socket box liver necessary tools should be presented like this:

1. Level with pencil and compass. Necessary for marking on the walls and subsequent alignment of the block of boxes for sockets (if necessary, installation).
2. Drill. Required to make holes for the boxes. The drill will need crowns for drilling - in their absence, a concrete drill will do. In the absence of a drill, a puncher or a grinder will do.
3. Hammer with a chisel. It will be needed at the stage of forming holes for knocking out extra pieces of the wall.
4. Spray. It will be needed during drilling for watering the crown, it will prevent cracking tiles and prevent the spread of dust.
5. Spatula (trowel). Required at the stage of fastening the boxes.

Additionally, you will need a solution of alabaster, cement or gypsum to securely fix the boxes in the wall. Often, dowels are needed for this purpose. Do not forget about the sockets, the presence of which must be ensured before the start of the above actions.

Installation of socket boxes in rooms made of various materials

The installation process of the box should be treated responsibly, since the reliability of fixing the sockets with subsequent work directly depends on this.

Depending on the material of the walls, the mounting procedure has some characteristic differences.

Concrete

Concrete is one of the most common materials for interior walls, so the installation of socket boxes in this case has been worked out to the smallest detail:

1. Implementation of markup. A serious stage, especially when mounting several socket boxes, where the same level of location is especially important.
2. Making holes. The diameter of the holes for the sockets must exceed the diameter of the installed socket by 5 mm. The easiest way to do this is with a crown or a pobedit tip. It is necessary to drill holes around the perimeter of the marked circle and knock out inner part(in the absence of a puncher and a drill, you can use a grinder), making rectangular holes in the wall, covering the corners with mortar.
3. Box example. Proper installation should be flush, so do not forget to check how freely the cables pass into the pre-prepared holes.
4. Installation process. It is necessary to lay a layer of putty in the hole so that the glass fits. After mounting, it is necessary to leave everything for a few minutes to set the mortar, after which it is necessary to remove its unnecessary part from the wall.

In case of insufficient fixation, the socket box should be additionally fixed with dowels.

Brick

Mounting boxes for sockets in brickwork similar to installation in concrete, but there are a number of nuances.

The boxes should be installed flush on the outer side of the wall. It should be noted that an additional layer of plaster will be laid on the wall, and sometimes tiles (kitchen, bathroom). It will be difficult to calculate in advance how many mm the socket should be pulled out of the wall or tile.

You can use the following scheme:

• make a deepening (diamond, victorious);
• hide the wire in the hole and close the lid (for example, from cardboard);
• putty the wall, remembering the location of the future outlet (if necessary, lay the tiles);
• proceed to the first stage of mounting the socket box (after the tile adhesive and plaster have dried), carefully drilling holes at the desired coordinates.

The subsequent stages of mounting should be carried out by analogy with the installation of socket boxes in concrete.

gas silicate

When mounting socket boxes in gas silicate blocks worth preparing for a large number dust. You need to use a vacuum cleaner.

Since plaster, putty for painting or wallpaper are used in the decoration of walls made of gas silicate, the phased installation of socket boxes is similar to that when they are installed in brick walls. The only caveat is that holes should be made with a drill with an inventory drill. An impact drill should not be used.

Depending on the material, the implementation of the installation process will differ. The most important thing is to fulfill all safety requirements.

Mounting boxes in PVC and MDF panels and not only

The number of different materials used in modern construction, strikes.

It is worth knowing about some of the nuances of each material in order to correctly carry out the process of mounting the socket boxes.

Drywall

When installing boxes in drywall walls, a perforator and mortar are not required. The work will be carried out several times faster in comparison with the installation of socket boxes in walls made of a concrete component or brick.

You need to purchase special boxes that have additional paws to ensure better attachment to the drywall sheet. After marking, you can make holes with a drill with a crown or a conventional drill. Then you need to bring the wire out and thread it into the socket, and then insert it into the hole. On it, tighten the bolts from the legs for adjustment.

If there is a risk of the box falling out of the hole, you can first glue a sheet of plywood or other dense and non-crumbling material to the drywall from the inside. All other steps (connection of the outlet mechanism) are standard.

Tree

Performance concealed wiring in a house made mainly of wooden components is not a cheap pleasure. According to the requirements of the PUE, the installation wire should never come into contact with a tree.

Standard plastic sockets are not suitable, as there is a risk of fire. The only option is iron, capable of withstanding an arc of electricity during a short circuit.

Wires during installation should be laid in iron pipes, and carefully seal the joints with the socket box. We should not forget about grounding, for which it will be necessary to additionally weld a mounting bolt to the ends of the pipes converging in the box. To provide additional protection, the bottom of the holes can be lined with asbestos.

PVC and MDF panels

Modern window sills or loggias are often made of PVC and act as a place for installing sockets.

To carry out this process quickly, you need to purchase boxes for sockets with spacer legs. For additional fasteners, you should buy self-tapping screws. At the assembly stage, the power cable must be laid in advance.

The holes for the sockets in the panels are made in advance, using a crown (diameter 68 mm). They must be strictly in size so that the socket box enters rather tightly. Then you need to stretch the cable through the prepared holes and connect the socket terminals. After that, you can attach the panels to the main location. It is necessary to try to get the outlet close to the wall.

When mounting a whole complex of devices, you should always adhere to a distance between sockets of 71 mm. To maintain this distance to a millimeter, you can make your own original template. To do this, you need to take any hard material (pipe profile, aluminum frame) and make a markup in the center of the rib, where the socket boxes will be attached.

To this end, you need to find the center with a tape measure and mark the line with a pencil. On the finished line, it is necessary to drill holes with a drill for metal. After that, you need to measure the distance between the holes of the box with a tape measure and, in accordance with it, drill a second point. Similarly, make holes for the remaining boxes. In order not to perform so many manipulations, you can simply purchase a stencil for socket boxes.

Conclusion

A glass under the outlet greatly facilitated the process of installing various electrical outlets. Allows you to easily mount sockets in the wall, so that they will be almost invisible. This allows them to harmoniously fit into the interior of the premises and serves as a guarantee of safety.

If necessary, socket boxes allow you to repair electrical outlets or replace them. They have become widespread and have become an integral part of the direct process of mounting electrical outlets.

Installing outlets in a concrete wall is quite complicated, like everything related to electricity, because special care is needed here. Having decided to do this work, be sure to strictly follow technological process. Installing new sockets is an important issue, because after each repair or simply moving furniture, you change your home. For the convenience of using certain devices, they are transferred to more “accessible” places. If you want to do everything yourself, you need to know the theoretical minimum, which I will discuss in this article.

Getting Started preparatory stage, you must already have purchased an electrical appliance, as well as purchased the right materials, tools and brought to the proper form of the work site.

Usually, the location of sockets is not regulated in height, so electrical appliances can be installed wherever you want, observing only one condition: heating, gas and plumbing systems must be 1 meter away from your chosen installation point. The exception is the toilet and bathroom; under no circumstances should electrical sockets be installed in them.

Necessary tools and materials

For work you will definitely need:

1. Electrical outlet (better take a product with a ceramic base);
2. Appropriate sized installation box;
3. Cable and wiring products;
4. Alabaster.

As a snap, select:

• perforator;
• chisel;
• putty knife;
• indicator screwdriver.

Types of sockets

There are several main types of outlets. According to the type of installation, there are: built-in for open and built-in for internal wiring. Embedded are used when the wires pass through the wall. This usually happens in apartments, as this is a guarantee of security. Overlays are more suitable for wooden houses where the wiring goes over the wall.

Sockets with protective shutters are good because the openings are protected. The curtains are retracted only if the fork enters. They can open up, with a certain pressure, in a circular motion, etc.

Push-pull sockets are suitable for multi-appliance use where the plug needs to be unplugged and replaced frequently.

The socket with a timer is more suitable for children and the elderly. On it, you can program the inclusion of a particular device. So, for example, you can do with a teapot.

Sockets with indicator. Using the indicator, you can determine whether there is current in the network.

Installation instructions

markup

First of all, we proceed to the markup - we mark the center of the future outlet with a tape measure and a pencil on the wall. When installing the block - apply all the centers.

Holes in a concrete wall

For further installation of socket boxes, make a hole in the concrete wall. To facilitate the work, use a perforator and prepare a special crown. With it you make holes with a depth of 50 to 60mm. Then you insert a crown for concrete into the puncher and use it to designate the future dimensions of the hole.

Make 12 holes along the resulting length. Drill them to the installation depth of the selected socket boxes (usually no more than 50 mm). Using a spatula, remove the remaining concrete.

Installation of electrical wiring

After you have made all the holes and punched strobes to them, you can proceed with the installation of electrical wiring. You must run the power wires to the sockets. The best option: connect its own electrical cable to each.

Installation of socket boxes

At this stage, carefully follow the things I have described, because durability, reliability, convenience and, of course, your safety depend on it.

Considering the number of sockets that you want to install, assemble the appropriate block. Let's take two as an example.

1. Connect two sockets together.
2. Make the plugs that are needed to enter the cable.
3. Remove unnecessary connecting elements interfering with installation.
4. Try on the socket by placing it in the already formed hole. After making sure that it does not stick out, does not stick out and is not tilted, you can proceed to the next step.

1. Clean the hole from dust.
2. Primed with a special primer that guarantees durability.
3. Dilute the putty or plaster mixture on a gypsum basis. Then apply the mixture inside the holes. In such cases, the use of alabaster is also allowed.

Important! You need to work quickly, because gypsum hardens in a very short period of time.

1. "Push" the sockets with the wires in them into the solution.

wall decoration

Next, you need to prime, and then cover with plaster significant chips, dips and indentations. Especially carefully you need to coat the socket boxes themselves. After the wall dries, putty and process sandpaper areas so that everything looks even and beautiful.

After that, you can safely move on to finishing (paint, wallpaper, etc.).

Auxiliary, but an integral element of the electrical system are the sockets. They are used both in industrial and domestic facilities in order to accommodate hidden wiring. It is permissible to hide the wires and contacts of not only sockets, but also switches, motion sensors, dimmers, terminal blocks, regulators of various built-in devices (for example, ceiling infrared heater, warm floor). Correct installation- a guarantee of reliable fixation of the device, and since the box is made of plastic - a dielectric material, then additional insulation between it and the wall.

Preparatory measures imply not only the adoption of a number of pre-installation actions, but also the advance purchase of certain materials and tools. For work you will need:

• alabaster / gypsum;
• primer;
• putty knife;
• perforator / drill;
• drill / drill 8 mm thick;
• diamond, equal in diameter to 68-70 mm (provided that the socket is standard);
• special spatula or chisel + hammer;
• building level;
• marker / pencil;
• ruler / hard tape measure;
• indicator screwdriver;
• sandpaper;
• cable/conductor products;
• the actual electrical device (if a socket, then preferably with a ceramic base) and a box of the appropriate size.

Having acquired the right tools and materials, start preparatory work it is necessary from the marking of the zone where the device will be located. For this purpose, the middle of a future outlet, switch or other device is drawn on a concrete wall with a pencil or marker. If it is planned to install a block, then the center of the extreme fixture is initially marked on the surface. Through it, a line is subsequently drawn along the level, equal to the length of the entire device. Using a tape measure or ruler, marks are made on this line for the rest of the electrical products.

Drilling holes for sockets

It is best to use a puncher for this. With the help of it, it is necessary to drill a recess in the intended center by placing a drill. After the nozzle should be changed to a crown: it indicates the dimensions of the future hole. As soon as the marked contour appears, the drill is removed from the tooling by unscrewing the bolt. Next, a crown is put on the puncher again, on which it is necessary to make a mark to what depth it will penetrate, usually 5-6 cm. Having reached the required distance, the nozzle changes again. This time, a shovel is put on the puncher, excess concrete is knocked out with it. If it was not possible to achieve the desired depth, then a chisel and a hammer are used.

In situations where neither a puncher nor a drill is available, you can use a grinder. The work is carried out by creating cuts that have a different direction in the places of markings. After the pieces of material are knocked out with a chisel until the desired depth is obtained.

Wall Mounting Guide

Having drilled a hole and punched strobes to it - grooves for laying communications, then it is allowed to proceed to direct electrical installation. For this purpose, a socket should be placed in the recess and check how well it is fixed. It is considered correct: the plastic case is completely recessed into the wall, tightly fixed and not tilted at all. Then you need to bring the wires feeding the future device into the hole located in the background.

The next goal is to securely fix the box in the wall:

1. clean the base from dust;
2. treat the hole with a primer that will ensure durability;
3. dilute the plaster / putty mixture on a gypsum base (instead of building / medical gypsum it is allowed to use alabaster: it is diluted with water until a creamy homogeneous consistency is formed);
4. with a spatula, apply the composition inside the hole;
5. put the socket in the socket and press it into the solution (it should crawl out on concrete surface through slots).

Installation is important to produce extremely quickly, because the mixture used hardens in just 2-3 minutes. The product must be leveled so that the screws are horizontal to the floor, and the box is completely deepened into the base. Check the correctness of the level applied to the fixture diagonally. In the future, it cannot be moved: the gypsum / alabaster must harden to the end. Surplus, crawled out, are removed.

If there are gaps, chips, potholes in the concrete for the socket after work is completed, these areas must be primed and covered with plaster. From the moment the wall dries, it will need to be puttied and leveled with sandpaper. Final stage – finishing optional (wallpapering, painting, and so on).

Possible mistakes

Do-it-yourself installation is often fraught with backfire. The most common problem is falling out or poor fixation of the product in the wall. If this happens, you can deal with the problem in 2 ways:

• screw a self-tapping screw with a dowel into the base of the socket;
• applying glue gun, securely fasten the box in the nest.

Also common mistake is to interrupt the cable with a spacer from the socket / switch. A hazardous potential develops on the device case, which can lead to a short circuit when electricity is supplied. To avoid this, the entry of the wire into the socket should not in the least interfere with the future design, especially from the side of the spacer legs.

1. It is allowed to install switches and socket boxes anywhere. The main thing is to observe one condition: water, gas, heating systems must be located at least 1 m from the selected mounting point. The exception is the bathroom and toilet room, it is generally impossible to install electrical devices due to danger.

2. When fixing into a concrete or brick wall, it is advisable to use gypsum / alabaster only with small holes. In situations where the nests are larger, it is wiser to use cement-sand mortar or construction adhesive.

3. It is better to leave some wire in the installation box. It will come in handy when it comes time to repair contacts.

4. If we are talking about the installation of 1-2 socket boxes, then the purchase diamond crown would be a waste of money. It is more appropriate to change it for nozzles equipped with victorious teeth, or even use a grinder with a disk.