How to store grapes in winter. How to choose a good storage material? Germination of cuttings and planting

Propagation of grapes at home with chibouks is a common event. The material for planting next year is pencil-thick cuttings. Its length varies from 50 - 60 to 70 cm. A seedling is considered to be of high quality if there are 3 - 4 strong buds. Let's consider how to save grape cuttings in winter in order to start warm season they were capable of propagating culture.

When is the best time to take cuttings?

People who are far from growing grapes believe that it is best to cut the chibouks in the spring. But this opinion is erroneous, because until next year the material will simply rot or dry out. If the cut stalk is immediately inserted into the ground, without allowing it to overwinter in suitable storage conditions, it will quickly dry out and will not even take root. In addition, a wound will remain on the “operated” vine, which will become a gateway for the invasion of grape disease pathogens. It turns out that it is better to save the cuttings cut in the fall than to spoil the material and waste time in vain.

Shoots are harvested in October, when the processes of vegetation and sap flow in shrubs stop. Sections heal over the winter, and the injured vessels of the cambium become clogged. Until the beginning of spring, the plants are restored, and the summer resident may not be afraid for their infection.

Petioles are cut from healthy and mature annual vines. The readiness of a plant for reproduction is checked in two ways:

Branch bend. A sufficiently developed branch makes a slight crackle.
Iodine treatment of the cut. The stalk is cut off, and its former location is smeared with iodine. If the vine is mature, the cut quickly turns black.

Too thin or thick shoots for propagation are not used. Such planting material is considered to be of poor quality. It is optimal to cut cuttings from the middle part of the shoot, which managed to accumulate stocks over the summer useful substances for wintering in natural conditions. The thickness of the shoots should be 5 - 8 mm. Subject to all the conditions for the harvesting of grape cuttings, the chances of quick rooting and survival of young growth increase significantly.

Conditions for storing chibouks

In order for the chibouks to normally endure storage in the winter, the summer resident must create the following conditions for them:

Inaccessibility for rodents.
High humidity level - up to 90%.
The air temperature in the room is from 1 to 4 degrees Celsius.

If the vine for future planting is harvested in large quantities, you can get by with an ordinary basement. The temperature there is always the same, but the owner must take care to protect the shoots from pests. Periodically, you need to visit the cellar and moisten, ventilate and inspect the petioles for damage.

Preparation of grape cuttings for storage consists of several activities. The most important of these is to provide the material with sufficient moisture. At the cut vine, the concentration of water drops sharply. If the cutting loses about 20% of moisture, it will not be able to become a full-fledged seedling. This cannot be allowed, which means that the prepared material must be transferred to the storage as soon as possible. Even if the petiole lies under the bush for one day, the proportion of dehydration will be 2 - 3%.

Fresh chibouks do not need to be soaked. But a slight soak is still allowed. So that the kidneys do not suffocate, and the raw materials do not rot, the vine is placed in clean fresh water (ideally - spring). Petioles can lie in water from 2 - 3 hours to several days.

Shoots are protected from pests and possible diseases by processing or iron vitriol(3% concentrate). Then the vine is placed in plastic bags so that the top peeks out. Individual specimens are tied in bunches and the cuttings are removed to a suitable room.

What are the places to store cuttings?

Storing chibouks in the refrigerator

If the number of cuttings is small, and their length reaches half a meter, you can keep the grapes until spring in a household refrigerator. The central shelves of the unit are placed so that a niche is formed. The distance between the shelves should be at least 10 cm.

For storage in the refrigerator, the vine is sent not in a plastic bag, but in a thin cloth or gauze, previously soaked in a solution of vitriol. The bundle is additionally wrapped in cellophane and placed on a refrigerated shelf. Once a month, the contents of the package are reviewed and, as necessary, moistened and wiped with vitriol.

Basement or cellar

If you don't know how to store the cuttings in the basement, just put them in heavy polyethylene bags and place them on a shelf. Visit them once a month and control the quality. Moisten dried shoots, moldy - fix with rags soaked in a 3% solution of copper sulphate. Prepare the drug at the rate of 1 tsp. to a glass of water.

If it is possible to get sand or coniferous sawdust - excellent. Pour them into bags and insert the chibouks. The sawdust will accumulate carbon dioxide. This substance is dangerous for pathogens of grapes. Also, its presence reduces the consumption of carbohydrates by seedlings. Sawdust and sand should have moderate moisture content. Excess moisture damaging planting material.

How to store cuttings in a trench

To preserve grape seedlings until spring, some summer residents dig a trench 1 spade bayonet deep. A ditch is dug where water does not stagnate. Chubuks in this case are not wrapped with a film, otherwise they will rot. They are immediately placed in a ditch and covered with soil.

In February-March, the overwintered material is removed from storage and inspected. Suitable for further landing consider cuttings, a fresh cut of which shows green color. The bark should be smooth and not flaky. The mold is washed off the shoots with a clean soft cloth. Poor-quality raw materials are rejected. Well-preserved specimens are being prepared for planting in open ground.

You can set up a luxurious vineyard on your site quickly and easily. Even an inexperienced gardener can cope with this. There are several basic ways to plant grapes:

seedlings;
cuttings;
layering.

Cuttings are vegetative breeding method, as a result of which a young plant appears from a part of an old shoot - a cutting. For the propagation process, cuttings of a one-year-old fruit-bearing vine, called chibouks, are most often used. They may be green or woody.

The process is very time consuming and not the easiest. However, the success of the operation depends on the competent observance of all instructions.

Harvesting grape cuttings in autumn

In autumn, lignified cuttings are prepared. For the procedure, choose the time after the leaves fall, but before the onset of the first frost. During this period, the buds of the shoots are finally formed and contain a large number of nutrients. They can easily survive the winter and immediately grow. This is one of the most reliable ways, giving one hundred percent rooting.

How to prepare chibouks for storage?

To prepare the material for planting, choose a healthy vine, up to 1 cm in diameter, and cut off its upper part. Leaves, antennae, unripe tops are removed from the cut shoots, keeping 4 eyes each.

The upper cut is made a few centimeters above the upper kidney. The lower part is cut vertically in three places, forming a cut about 3 cm in length. This procedure will ensure the normal metabolism of the cuttings after planting in open ground.

The procedure is carried out with a sharp knife at an angle. It is important to prepare before starting the operation garden tools. To do this, it is cleaned and processed to prevent the spread of diseases.

Attention! Pruning the shank is extremely important. If the cutting is not cut correctly, it will dry out or die.

If you are preparing cuttings different varieties, they must be marked and collected in bundles. They do this so that the plants do not infect each other at rest. Then they are immersed in water for a day. Then treated with a 5% solution of copper sulphate and dried well.

After that, they are placed in a plastic film and sent for storage. The cuttings must survive the winter, get stronger and in early spring they can be planted in open ground on permanent place growth.

Important! Treatment of cuttings with water and vitriol contributes not only to disinfection, but also to the accumulation of a supply of nutrients that will help the plant survive hibernation.

How to choose a good planting material?

The success of the operation directly depends on the quality planting material. Before you start pruning, pick up healthy and strong cuttings.

You need to start with a preliminary inspection of the vine. The color of the shoots should be uniform brownish-green. There should be no damage, cuts, stains or rot.

The diameter of a healthy shank should range from 0.6 to 1.0 cm. The length can vary from 12 to 60 cm. A shoot that is too short will not be able to survive the winter due to a lack of strength and nutrients. Too long cuttings do not store well.

Saving from 2 to 4 eyes will allow the plant to quickly take root and immediately enter the phase of development and growth when transplanted into open ground.

Storage conditions for grape seedlings in winter

Preservation of chibouks until spring is also a mandatory procedure. Optimal conditions storage temperature is considered to be from 0 to +5 degrees Celsius. It is important to ensure that mold does not form. The storage room should be dark to avoid direct sunlight.

Storage technologies before planting in the ground

During storage, the plant loses half of its nutrients and quickly weakens, becoming unsuitable for planting. the main task procedure is to reduce losses. You can store cuttings in the basement, refrigerator or buried in the ground. Low temperature and darkness slows down vital processes and leads to a decrease in nutrient consumption.

How to store in the basement or cellar?

When storing chibouks in the basement, it is important to ensure that the temperature is constant. It should not fall below 0 degrees. Otherwise, the air will become too cold and the vine will freeze. It is important not to allow the temperature to rise above +4 degrees. In this case, the kidneys will begin to swell and bloom ahead of time. It is possible to regulate the temperature and humidity conditions of the room by providing ventilation and ventilation.

It is important to ventilate the cuttings themselves. For this in polyethylene film, which is wrapped around the shoots, make several holes. At least once a month, the film is unrolled and the cuttings are inspected. In case of mold formation, it is wiped with a cloth dipped in a solution of copper sulphate. When the vine dries out, it is moistened with water.

Another popular way to retain moisture and reduce nutrient loss is to use wet sand or pine sawdust. To do this, they are added in small quantities to plastic bag in which cuttings are stored.

How to store before planting in the refrigerator?

This method is good only for storing a small number of cuttings, the length of which does not exceed half a meter. In this case, the shelves with cuttings are stacked at a distance of at least 10 cm from each other.

The cuttings prepared and treated with water and vitriol are wrapped with a thin cloth and placed in plastic bags. Once a month, the bundles need to be opened, the vine must be processed blue vitriol and moisturize.

Interesting! To make sure that the temperature in the packages is up to standard, experienced gardeners put a thermometer in it for a couple of hours.

in the trench

One of the simplest and least labor-intensive ways to store cuttings is a prikop. To do this, they dig a shallow hole, put shoots in it and cover it with earth. It is necessary to choose a secluded place where water does not accumulate, otherwise the cuttings may rot. Dry soil will perfectly protect against the formation of mold, disease and retain nutrients.

How to save purchased seedlings before planting

Most often, seedlings for sale come in late autumn or winter. However, it is recommended to plant them in open ground in the spring. You can learn how to save them before landing from the video.

Harvesting cuttings of grapes in spring

For propagation of grapes, you can use green cuttings. They are prepared in the spring, 2 weeks before the plant enters the flowering phase.

First of all, choose healthy shoots. On the cut cuttings, 2 eyes are kept, and the leaf blades are cut in half.

Next, the pipes are dipped in water for a day and covered with a cloth. Rooting starts immediately. For this, containers are prepared, where the lower drainage layer of pebbles is laid, fertilizers and sand are poured. Planted cuttings to a depth of 4 cm, at a distance of 10 cm from each other.

Containers are covered with foil to preserve high temperature and humidity. During the first month from the moment of planting, it is necessary to maintain soil moisture at a level of 100%, air - 85% and temperature - up to 30 degrees Celsius.

In the following months, the number of waterings is gradually reduced to 2 times a day. After the cuttings germinate, the film must be removed, starting to accustom the plant to natural environmental conditions.

By the end of summer, it is necessary to treat the chibouks with fungicides to prevent the development of diseases. It is recommended to leave the cuttings in this form for a year for full development and start transplanting in the spring.

Germination of cuttings and planting

In the open ground is carried out in early spring. Before proceeding with the procedure, the chubriki must be prepared and rooted.

To do this, a couple of weeks before planting, they are taken out of storage and transplanted into plastic cups. This will help the plant to quickly adapt and come out of dormancy.

First, the cuttings are soaked for up to 48 hours in warm water. Then several holes are made at the bottom of the cups. Then earth and humus. Topped with fine sand. A cutting is placed in the center to a depth of about 4 cm, and then watered.

You can learn more about the process from the video.

The main mistakes when choosing and storing chibouks

It is important to choose healthy and strong shoots for pruning. They should be about 8 mm thick. It is recommended to cut the middle part of the vine, as it is in it that healthy buds and a large amount of nutrients are concentrated.
During the period of preservation of chibouks before planting, they lose a large amount of moisture. In order to replenish it, they must be soaked in water for two days.
To protect the cuttings from diseases, it is imperative to treat them with a solution of copper sulfate. To do this, add a spoonful of the substance to 1 glass of water.
If the cuttings are stored in the ground, they should be protected from decay. For this, the outside temperature must be around 0 degrees. You can mix soil with sand.

Useful video

Learn more about storing chibouks in the video below:

Outcome

Everyone can grow grapes on their own plot. Cuttings are one of the most economical and successful propagation methods. Don't be afraid to experiment with your favorite grape varieties. With strict adherence to the basic recommendations, a rich harvest useful berries you are provided.

Grapevine cut into cuttings (chubuks) in autumn is the basis of your future vineyard. And how you procure or purchase it, how you save it, depends on the yield and survival rate of vaccinations in the spring of next year. The main thing is to always remember that the stalk is a living, breathing organism.

CUTTING. Grape cuttings are harvested in autumn, in late October - early December. Ideally - after the first frost, before the onset of frost more than 10 degrees. At this time, the content of nutrients (sugars, starch, etc.) in the vine is maximum, in addition, it has been hardened by low plus and slight negative temperatures.

The best vines for harvesting are fruit vines. Coppice vines are often fattening, their buds form in the shade and are underdeveloped. The thickness, ideally, should be 5-8 mm (like a pencil or slightly thicker). True, if the vine is thinner, but well ripened, it is quite suitable for both rooting and grafting. I like this vine even more - it’s more convenient to work. Thick, finger-thick vines are also suitable for growing grape seedlings: they have a large supply of nutrients. The main thing is that they do not have a loose core of more than half the diameter of the cutting (this is a sign of a fatty vine). Such grape cuttings are poorly stored and rooted.

When harvesting, the cuttings are cut not in the middle of the internode, but 2 ... 3 centimeters above the node. So we leave a sufficient section of the vine under the eye for a possible future grafting of grapes. For harvesting, you need to choose healthy vines, without spots of oidium, hailstones and others. mechanical damage. It is often written that crooked cuttings are bad. I disagree: they are biologically no different from straight lines. If you adapt to work with them - to your health!

A vine cut from a bush (a bunch) must immediately be labeled to avoid confusion.

PREPARATION FOR STORAGE. Long vines store best, so try not to cut them unnecessarily. If possible, leave lashes one meter - one and a half - two.

I’ll tell you right away about the classification of cuttings: short ones - 1-2 eyes, medium ones - 3-4 eyes, and long ones - 5 or more eyes (the classification is conditional, with a normal length of internodes). As a rule, 1-3-eye cuttings are used for germination on seedlings, although 2-eye cuttings are more convenient if the distance between the eyes is more than 10 cm; graft one-eyed, and very rarely two-eyed.

Quite a few important role for the viability of the vine has its water content. From the moment the cutting is cut, the water content in it is constantly decreasing. If the cutting loses more than 20% of the water contained in it during storage, then its chances of becoming a seedling are practically zero, and prolonged soaking will not help either. Cut well-aged wood, under the same conditions it dries out more slowly than poorly matured wood. Try to get grape cuttings from the place of cut to the place of storage with a minimum of moisture loss. Remember: the vine left under the bush loses 2-3% of moisture per day!

If all conditions are met, then soaking before storage is rather harmful. If not, then depending on the degree of drying of the vine, it must be soaked from several hours to two days. Water should be as pure and soft as possible - spring, rain or melted water. You can’t soak the vine for more than two days - the kidneys can suffocate!

If you do not know if the vine was treated for fungal diseases before storage, then this must be done. Spray (wash) them with a 3% solution of iron or copper sulfate. And before storing, ventilate the vine so that it does not go into a plastic bag wet.

I want to dwell on this in particular. Bathing in vitriol is a must if you got cuttings from other areas, or from people who don't keep a close eye on their vineyards.

And if you received grape seedlings with roots, then you first have to disinfect them in vitriol, and then deactivate them from phylloxera using BI-58, bazudine or another insecticide that can be used at low temperatures. Dilute them in water according to the instructions, and dip the roots, or even the entire seedlings, into the solution for a minute, and then place them in a plastic bag for a day.

Is it time consuming? Certainly! Therefore, from other areas, and from your own, it is better to take only cuttings if you do not want to do pest control yourself. Seedlings can only be taken from proven, well-established growers who guarantee pre-sale processing. Do not be lazy, ask - what and how they processed! Remember that the entire territory of Ukraine, especially the areas of industrial viticulture (Odessa, Kherson, Nikolaev and Crimea) is a zone of continuous infection with phylloxera, and its appearance in amateur vineyards is a matter of time and our cleanliness. Especially in case of frequent cases of uncontrolled sale of grape seedlings from industrial vineyards in the south of Ukraine. And once you bring this quarantine pest to your place - and nothing can get rid of it!

STORAGE. Considering that up to 50% of the stored nutrients are lost during storage, stratification and kilching, then the vine may be completely weakened by the time of planting. We need to make sure that the loss of carbohydrates during the storage of grape cuttings is minimal. The lower the temperature, the lower the intensity of respiration, the less energy substances are consumed, but the vine cannot be stored below 0 ° C - at negative temperatures the cuttings dry out intensively. Therefore, by the way, it is not recommended to harvest vines in spring from bushes that have stood uncovered for the winter, because. the percentage of germinated buds in such cuttings is much less than that harvested in the fall.

It turns out that the ideal temperature for storing vines should be just above 0 ° C. The experiments of scientists have established that at a temperature of +0.4 ° C, it is possible to keep the content of carbohydrates in grape wood unchanged until mid-March.

This is ideal, of course. In our real conditions, the vine is stored either in a prikope, or in a cellar, or in a refrigerator in the kitchen. In any case, the temperature should not exceed + 8 ° C, otherwise the buds will begin to swell and bloom. But at this temperature, the cuttings breathe more actively and lose moisture. Therefore, they must be in a humid environment.

The easiest way is to store the cuttings in a prikope. Choose a secluded place, dig a trench a bayonet deep and place the cuttings there. Fill with earth. In this case, it is impossible to pack them in polyethylene - they will rot! Consider the label material - after a few months in the ground, they should remain legible. The place of the pit should exclude stagnant water.

When stored in the cellar, they are moistened and placed in polyethylene or polypropylene bags. Once a month, the vine needs to be checked: dried up - moistened, moldy - wiped with a rag soaked in a 3% solution of iron or copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per glass of water).

Again about the ideal to strive for - storage in the cellar, in moist (slightly) sand, and even better - in bags with slightly damp coniferous sawdust. In this case, the carbon dioxide accumulated in the bag preserves the harmful microflora and at the same time restrains the consumption of carbohydrates (starch) for breathing. The most important thing is to prevent waterlogging of sand or sawdust when laying cuttings. But not everyone has that opportunity...

A small number of grape cuttings, for your own needs: spring vaccinations or can be stored in a household refrigerator. In the middle part of the refrigerator, arrange the shelves so that there is a minimum distance between them (about 10 cm) - you get a storage niche. Wrap the cuttings with gauze or a thin cloth slightly moistened with the same solution of vitriol that was used to process the vine, place in a plastic bag and put in the refrigerator. You check once a month. When drying, moisten, when mold appears, wipe with a solution of vitriol.

Another tip: before laying the cuttings in the refrigerator, put a thermometer there for a couple of hours (or better at night). Just in case. For me, this action led to the call of the refrigeration master: it turns out that the temperature in the refrigerator did not fall below + 13 ° C, with the thermostat set to maximum cold!

Now, as expected, it has +4 ... +5 ° С. And the wife does not grumble about the occupied space in the refrigerator: the cuttings saved a lot of food!

EXTRACTION. When extracting, the grape cuttings are wiped with a rag from mold, vitriol residues. A well-preserved cutting should not be overdried, with shriveled or flaking bark, and should be bright green when cut.

Before planting to obtain grape seedlings or grafting, the cuttings are cut, soaked for 12-24 hours, sometimes with the addition of stimulants. Planting and grafting is done immediately after soaking.

Growing grapes can bring not only good harvest but also an unforgettable pleasure from this process. But for this you will have to try hard and make sure that the vine successfully copes with the autumn and winter colds.

If you do not want to get less and less harvest every year, and then plant a new vine at all, then you will need useful advice below.

The effect of frost on the condition of the vine

Prolonged and intensifying frosts have an extremely negative impact on the vine. If you do not take appropriate measures, then you can not only lose the next crop, but also completely destroy the vine.

Destruction of perennial sleeves and annual growth of grapes. This is a very common situation and can result in them stopping active germination. Their place can be taken by shoots from shoots and dormant buds, which delays the process of obtaining the desired crop.
Destruction of the above-ground part of the grapes. It occurs quite often and has serious consequences in the long term. The good news is that the root system could not suffer from frost, so it will continue to provide the growth of the vine.
Destruction of kidneys with increased fertility. Instead of the process of rapid flowering, new shoots will appear. As a result, lost time and poor chances of getting a harvest.

There is also a danger of destroying not only the above-ground part of the grapes, but also the root system. In this case, you can not even dream of any harvest, and attempts to rectify the situation will lead to nothing. This is considered the most critical damage to the vine.

Even less frost-resistant grapes need proper care, not to mention those varieties that cannot cope with frost on their own.

The first thing you should do is to carefully inspect the grape bush. If you come across damaged, diseased and old vines, then they must be removed immediately. Those branches that have already managed to please the grape harvest should also be removed, but after some time. Ideally, at the time of the appearance of the first frost.

The resulting time will allow the grapes to get stronger and gain the necessary nutrients, which will significantly increase its chances of successfully resisting frost. Otherwise, he will be more vulnerable.

Special attention deserves cataract, which will allow deep roots to get stronger and take root.

To do this, you need to do the following:

Dig a small ditch around the grape trunk (up to 20 centimeters).
Remove all roots that are on the same level as the main root.
Prepare copper sulphate and process slices with it.
Fill the dug ditch with dry sand.
Loosen the soil around the grape bush and pour plenty of water.

The last thing you need to do is water the vine well. Experienced summer residents and gardeners call this process moisture-charging irrigation. The optimal time for such watering is the end of October or the beginning of November. If October is rainy, then water-charging irrigation will not be needed. Immediately after this, the shrub should be covered.

How to prepare the vine for the winter and what to look out for

Proper preparation for winter is considered:

Regular inspection of grape bushes for the presence of fungal infections.
Timely removal of damaged and dry branches.
Treatment of the vineyard with fungicides (it is recommended to increase their dosage after harvest).
Carry out top dressing with mineral and organic fertilizers.

It is advisable not to delay the shelter of grape bushes. The more carefully they are covered, the more nutrients will be spent on strengthening vital processes. Temperature also plays an important role. A warm shelter will better prepare the grapes for the upcoming frosts.

Pay attention to whether the wood has matured. Greenish wood not only will not be able to cope with winter conditions, but will also create a lot of problems for the other part of the grapes through the appearance of fungal diseases and molds.

Mature wood is brown in color and may crack slightly when bent without warping. A vine with such wood has a good chance of becoming immune to even severe frosts because it retains warmth.

What you need for mature wood on the vine:

A suitable grape variety that is able to ripen quickly under the climatic conditions of your area.
Maintaining the health of the grape bush.
Removing redundant and damaged branches.
Tracking the load of the vine. An overloaded vine noticeably delays the process of wood aging.
Top dressing of grapes necessary fertilizers from potassium.
Nitrogen fertilizers should be applied until mid-summer. Otherwise, the grapes will begin to spend their energy on creating excess green mass.
Carrying out a thorough autumn chasing (cutting shoots over the fifteenth sheet).

Important note! Minting should be done only after the growth of the vine has begun to slow down. The straight tops of the grapes indicate that the growth process has begun to degrade. If they are bent, then you need to wait a little more.

After the final pruning and trimming, it is necessary to ensure good cover grape bush. It should be carefully bent and tied in such a way as not to deform its branches. Taking into account the changing weather conditions, the shelter of the grapes may occur on different calendar days.

It is not necessary to rush to the grape bushes to shelter them from the first frosts. Such hardening will only benefit them, because the vine will noticeably get stronger and get a certain resistance to cold.

Those shoots that you cut and pre-treated with copper sulphate should be laid on the ground and fixed in position with brackets. This must be done with extreme care. It is better if there is a litter of dry branches and leaves under them.

From above they can show off wooden shields with flight attendants. This will increase the space around the stems and become additional protection from frost. After that, you need to cover the shields with any waterproof material. For example, polyethylene or roofing material. Be sure to throw dry branches or a small amount of earth so that the material is not blown away by the wind.

Summing up

Caring for a grape bush is a very difficult task, not only for beginners, but also for experienced gardeners and summer residents. The main thing is the sequence of actions and work on conscience.

With the passage of time and the accumulation of experience in this area, you can be sure that you can prepare grapes for the winter, both with proven and with your own methods.

" Grape

Spring period And most of summers pass for most gardeners in labors. taking care of fruit crops, a lot of time and effort is spent, but how pleasant it is to harvest. But it’s too early to relax, because you need to think about how to distribute the fruits for processing, create favorable conditions For long-term storage at home. This review will discuss how you can save grapes for the winter.

No matter how long the wait, there comes a time when all the grapes have to be removed from the vine. Of course, you can immediately process it into juices, wine and preservation. But an even greater desire arises to enjoy a fresh berry filled with a multifaceted aroma. Keeping grapes at home for several months is quite realistic, given important factors:

crop variety medium or late ripening with loose clusters is selected;
the berry should have firm flesh and thick skin;
when growing grapes on your own, pay attention rules of agricultural technology, they affect the safety of fruits;
only mature crops need to be harvested(not green or overripe), but work should be carried out in dry sunny weather;
when removing clusters, you need to try do not damage the wax coating, it contributes to long-term storage (it is recommended to use rubber gloves for this);
before storage should be sorted damaged or spoiled grapes;
wash collected brushes is strictly prohibited, such a procedure only accelerates the deterioration of the workpiece.

The lightest varieties can be stored at home for up to 5-6 months. These include: Kutuzovsky, Autumn black, Moldavian black, Vierup-59, December,.

Which varieties are suitable for long-term storage

Before you buy grapes for planting, you should decide on further ways storage and processing of crops. If there is a desire to harvest fresh clusters for New Year's table, it is recommended to consider varieties that are suitable for long-term storage and will not create problems during the overexposure process.

In memory of Negrul

The variety was bred as a result of crossing Korn Nyagra and Datier de Saint-Valier. A plant with an average ripening period tolerates frost well, is highly resistant to typical diseases. Clusters sing on the bushes cylindrical shape medium size, weight reaches 400-700 gr. Egg-shaped berries are painted in almost black color. The weight of each is 5-9 grams. The sugar content in fruits is 16-18% with an acidity of 5-7 g / l.

Variety features:

fruit covered with a dense wax coating, which ensures long-term storage;
plant has a good immunity;
powerful bush skeleton allows you to shoot higher yields;
insects practically do not attack the vine.

Original

This variety has several varieties, the main difference of which is the color of the berry. There are three of them: white, pink and black. All plants have frost resistance (up to -21 °) and long-term storage of berries. This is facilitated by the dense skin of the fruit and the wax coating.

bunch weight- 400-600 gr., Some specimens weigh up to 2 kg;
berry shape ovoid, the weight of one is 10-12 gr.;
taste without pronounced notes, but at the same time harmonious;
high yield(with proper care, up to 100 kg of fruit can be removed from the bush).

Fresh berries are stored at home at a certain temperature for up to 130 days.

Anniversary of the Crane

A late maturing plant with a growing season of 150-167 days. The strength of the bush is average, but this does not prevent the formation of large conical clusters, whose weight reaches 400-500 gr. There are specimens up to 1.4 kg. The taste is simple, but sweetness is well felt (18-19% with an acid of 8.5-9 g / l).

Grape Features:

early entry into fruiting young vine(in the second year after disembarkation);
fertility rates and productivity high;
frost resistance(up to -25°);
strong immunity minimizes preventive measures.

Fresh berries are stored at home at a certain temperature for up to 130 days.

Nistru

The plant is medium-sized with a growing season of 156-167 days. The variety was obtained by crossing Nimrang and Pierrell. On the bushes ripen beautiful cylindrical clusters weighing 700-800 gr., but there are also real champions, reaching 3 kg. The density of the brush is medium. The yellow-green berry has an oval shape, at the stage of ripeness it becomes covered with a pinkish tint. The weight of one is 7-8 grams. Sugar content - 16% with an acid of 7 g / l.

Variety features:

strong immunity(allows you to grow crops without spraying);
frost resistance up to minus 21°;
vine does not require shelter for the winter;
good transportability.

Fresh berries are stored at home at a certain temperature for up to 140 days.

Ways to preserve grapes in winter

Choose right sort grapes for long-term storage is only half the battle. The second part is in choise suitable way and creation comfortable conditions for the bunch so that it looks presentable and fresh on the table. Where to store grapes and how long will they last?

in the cellar

Sorted grapes can be stored in the cellar or cellar during the winter, if it is observed temperature regime+1° to +8° . Humidity is suitable with increased rates (70-80%), otherwise the fruits will quickly dry out. However, waterlogging should not be allowed, otherwise rot or mold will soon form on the workpieces. To regulate this process, it is recommended to regularly ventilate the room or install a forced ventilation system. A bucket of quicklime or charcoal installed in close proximity to the stored crop will also help reduce humidity.

Periodically (at least once a week) you need to inspect the fruits, the identified spoiled berries are carefully removed from the brush and disposed of.

When choosing a place for grapes it is worth abandoning the neighborhood with zucchini, potatoes and other vegetables, able to release moisture. It is better to find a nook separate from other products.

Using water containers

This method is appropriate to use when storing a small amount of crop. The essence of the method is to cut the bunches along with the vine, after which the long end of the branch is placed in a bottle (or other vessel) with water. At the same time, the bunch of grapes should hang freely, so the container is fixed at an angle. To prevent bacteria from developing in the water, a tablet of activated charcoal or aspirin is added to it. This will help prevent rot from forming. With such storage, the bunches remain fresh for up to 2 months, sometimes until the New Year.

Periodically, you should cut (renew the cut) the vine to allow the grapes to feed on moisture.

On the wire

Sorted bunches are tied in pairs by combs. Twine is used for tying. Next, in the cellar or basement, several rows of wire are pulled and the brushes are fixed with clothespins or with a thread. Grapes should be placed tightly, but with an interval for air circulation (at least 3-5 cm).

Periodically, blanks are inspected to remove damaged berries. The more thoroughly the cleaning is done, the longer the fruits remain.

It is better to pull the twine or wire at different heights so that the bunches do not touch each other. On the floor under the hangers, it is necessary to lay burlap or plastic wrap for the timely cleaning of fallen berries. If this is not done, the vinegar fly will start, which will provoke bacteria infection of the entire crop.

Application of boxes

Dry wooden boxes or tubs. Before filling the tree with fruits, it must be treated with an antiseptic or the container should be fumigated with sulfur. After complete drying, a layer of sawdust or straw is lined at the bottom (thickness 2-3 cm). Dry bunches, pre-sorted, spread on a layer so that the grapes do not touch each other. Each row is sprinkled with a layer of sawdust. Sawdust material is poured over the brushes, and the container is covered with a lid. It is not necessary to fill the box with fruits to the very top, it is important that there is some space between the lid and sawdust for air circulation.

When choosing sawdust pine and spruce should be abandoned. The aroma of pine needles negatively affects palatability grapes. It's better to prioritize fruit trees, as well as poplar or linden.

Proper freezing in the freezer

Preserve the taste and aroma of berries You can also freeze them. Dark and white varieties are suitable for this method, but the former are stored longer. It is important not to re-expose the grapes to low temperatures.

The sequence of how to freeze fruits correctly:

Thoroughly clear the bunches from damaged berries and debris. Rinse and dry naturally.
Arrange the brushes on a tray so that the grapes do not touch each other. Send them to the refrigerator for a couple of hours.
Place the tray with the workpiece for half an hour into the chamber and freeze.
After aging in the freezer, take out the fruits and package in portions into containers.
Send to freezer for storage. The storage temperature is set to -24°C.

You can harvest with the help of freezing both whole brushes and individual berries. The shelf life with this processing method is 7-8 months.

Before eating, the berries must be taken out in advance and put in the refrigerator for 18-20 hours for smooth defrosting. If necessary, the process is accelerated by immersing frozen berries in cool water, but with this method, taste is lost.

Light grape varieties are harvested as individual berries directly in sweet syrup. Grape processing sequence:

wash up and dry sorted bunches;
carefully separate each berry;
put on a tray one layer and send to freezer for 30 minutes;
boil syrup from water and sugar, cool it;
take berries out of the freezer and spoon water each;
send again for 30 minutes into the freezer;
repeat the procedure after 30 minutes, turning over frozen fruits;
frozen berries in syrup fold into a container and store in the freezer (-20° to -24°).

If you follow the recommendations of specialists and experienced gardeners, then it will be possible to feast on delicious berries that benefit the body all New Year's holidays. In addition, the grape itself is worthy decoration holiday table.