Waterproofing the floor before the screed: how to make a concrete base waterproof. Floor waterproofing on the ground: we protect the first floor from groundwater Is it necessary to do waterproofing under the screed

Floor waterproofing on the ground is mandatory to increase the operational life of a reinforced concrete screed. Without a hydrobarrier, soil moisture penetrates into the structure by capillary action, which leads to the opening of microcracks in concrete and corrosion of the reinforcement inside it.

Unlike foundations and grillages, which can be protected from moisture by all known methods, waterproofing a concrete floor on the ground is carried out with a limited amount of materials:

• membranes;
• rolled welded or glued insulation;
• polymer films;
• penetrating mixtures.

This is due to the design of the floor on the ground:

• waterproofing materials are laid on top of the footing;
• on the one hand, this screed provides a flat, hard surface that allows high-quality sealing of roofing felt or Bikrost at the joints;
• membranes and films do not tear from the sharp edges of rubble, do not fall into the sand when workers walk;
• on the other hand, from below, the footing protects the waterproofing layer and the floor screed located above it on the ground.

The location of the waterproofing layer inside the floor on the ground.

The weak point of the structure is the junction of the footing with the foundation (grillage or basement). The horizontal layer of waterproofing under the floor on the ground must be continuous and smoothly transition into a vertical level, protecting the screed from the ends along the entire height.

The specified conditions are observed only when using the following materials:

• membranes and films - they line the surface of the footing, the edges are brought to the side faces of the foundation to the desired height;
• rolled waterproofing - similar to the previous case, with the only amendment - bituminous materials are welded or glued with mastics on the indicated surfaces;
• penetrating mixtures - added to concrete during its manufacture or applied to the floor on the ground after curing, change the structure of the structural material throughout the entire thickness of the screed, making it waterproof.

Waterproofing plasters and coating mastics are useless in this case. They can protect the horizontal surface of the footing, but when switching to side surfaces foundation, the continuity of the layer will inevitably be broken, since the floor along the ground is separated from the basement by a damper layer and is a floating independent screed.

membranes

They are created only from high-density polyethylene, have profiling. The protrusions on the outside (2 cm spikes) are designed for glueless interlocking of strips of material when overlapping each other. The opposite side (front) contains bituminous mass.

Profiled membranes are expensive, but they allow you to do without a layer of footing. Due to the high density and thickness of the membrane (0.5 - 2 mm), the sharp edges of the crushed stone are not able to tear the material.

Films

They are classified as film flat membranes, must be laid in two layers, made of several materials:

• PVC - polyvinyl chloride;
• TPO - polyolefin;
• HDPE, LDPE - high and low density polyethylene, respectively.

Films from 0.2 mm are suitable for flooring on the ground, at least 15 cm overlap is required at the joints, tightness is achieved by welding or gluing the sheets. The mechanical strength is very low, so the films are laid only on top of the footing.

Important! Only vapor barrier membranes may be used, i.e. those that do not let water in the liquid and gaseous state, more precisely, not just waterproofing, but hydro-vapor barrier should be made.

Roll materials

Most often, rolled waterproofing is classified according to the base material:

• cardboard - roofing material, glassine, rubemast;
• polyester - polyester resin fiber for premium insulation;
• fiberglass - a highly elastic base, however, is subject to delamination after 5 - 7 years of operation in aggressive environments;
• fiberglass is a fragile material, but it costs less than other analogues, in a floor pie on the ground it is protected on both sides, therefore it has a satisfactory resource.

A bituminous layer and powdering of high-strength aggregates may be present on one or both sides.

Some manufacturers produce rolled insulation without a base. For example, at TechnoNIKOL, this is the “Floor waterproofing” product with a self-adhesive layer, consisting entirely of a bituminous coating.

Penetrating compounds

Among the manufacturers, the leader is Penetron, which produces a range of materials for the manufacture and repair of floor waterproofing on the ground:

• Admix - dry mix for adding to concrete during its mixing;
• Penetron is also a dry mixture for the preparation of a penetrating solution, applied with a brush, increases the moisture resistance of the structural material by 8 units (for example, from W0 to W8).

Regardless of the method of application, Penetron products (and their counterparts from less popular brands) react with cement stone, increase its strength and moisture resistance throughout the life of the supporting structure.

Moreover, a chipped piece of concrete treated with Penetron will also retain these properties until complete destruction. The only drawback is the price of penetrating insulation materials. For example, when using the Admix additive, the cost of concrete will increase by 300% minimum.

Technologies

The above floating floor protection materials are applied in different ways. Therefore, depending on the construction budget, it is necessary to choose the right technology.

surfacing

Since in 75% of cases rolled waterproofing materials are traditionally used, fusing technology is used most often:

• the dried concrete footing is dedusted and impregnated with a bituminous primer;
• pieces of Bikrost, TechnoNIKOL, roofing material, Steklogidroizol or any other roll material are cut in advance and laid on the floor on the ground;
• the lower bituminous layer is heated by a burner torch, a piece is welded onto the footing, the edges are wound onto the basement or foundation to the height of the screed;
• the following pieces are welded with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm.

Fusing rolled insulation on the footing.

Advice! In wet soils, it is necessary to perform two-layer insulation with a shift in the direction of the sheets by 90 degrees.

pasting

Roll materials, polymeric films and membranes can be glued to hot or cold bituminous, epoxy or polymeric mastics. Some materials have their own adhesive layer, which reduces labor costs, but increases the estimate for the floor on the ground, as they are more expensive than conventional rolls.

Pasting is carried out in 1 - 2 layers, depending on the level of ground on the site and the material of the underlying floor layer on the ground:

• sand is a technogenic layer in which capillary absorption of soil moisture is possible;
• there is no such effect in crushed stone, however, the material is more expensive than sand, it is more difficult to compact it manually.

To reduce the cost of building a floor on the ground, instead of footing, the following methods are used:

• the surface of the compacted crushed stone is leveled with moistened and compacted sand, the layer thickness should be at least twice the large fraction of crushed stone (for example, 8 cm for a fraction of 20/40);
• the crushed stone base is poured with cement milk, binding and leveling the surface, preventing the absorption of a similar product from concrete when pouring the floor itself over the ground.

Important! Films, membranes and rolled materials are not a damper layer of a floating screed, although they are launched vertically throughout its entire thickness. Therefore, the perimeter of the plinth, grillage or foundation must be pasted over with a special tape additionally or a vertically installed strip of extruded polystyrene foam should be used.

Penetrating mixtures

Volumetric waterproofing is carried out in several different ways:

The first technology is more appropriate when repairing a floor on the ground to improve its waterproofing characteristics. The second technique allows you to avoid pouring the footing when making the floor on the ground.

Thus, to isolate the floor on the ground from soil moisture, you can choose any of these methods, taking into account soil conditions, the design of the floor pie and the available budget.

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The overhaul of the floor space most often means screeding, that is, leveling the base for further laying of decorative and finishing materials. In some cases, an integral stage of the preparatory process is waterproofing under the screed.

The term "waterproofing" in the construction business denotes preventive work carried out to protect various structures from water penetration, as well as to protect materials from the harmful effects of aggressive moisture. In the case of a screed, this procedure is necessary for the following reasons:

Thus, waterproofing the floor under the screed is necessary to protect against the penetration of water both outside and inside the room.

Often, another function of the hydrobarrier is called improving the quality of the screed. In fact, the insulation formed under the concrete layer does not affect the characteristics of the latter in any way. This is possible only when special water-repellent additives are added to the composition of the screed solution. Thanks to industrial plasticizers or polymer-containing dry additives, the density and final strength of the finished web are increased.

Some masters recommend waterproofing the entire floor, not only in private housing construction, but also in apartments. The reason is that such protection will prevent the penetration of moisture from the screed mortar into the floor slabs and below. In reality, a similar procedure is recommended to be carried out without fail for residents of the first floor. For everyone else, it is enough to process the space in wet rooms, as well as the areas of joints between the plates, under communications (water supply and heating pipes), the junction of walls and floors.

Materials for waterproofing under the screed

Construction and finishing materials extensive and actively developed. In such an area as the formation of a hydro-barrier, both old, time-tested, and new unique developments of domestic or foreign production are used.

In residential housing construction, waterproofing under floor screed is carried out by the following types of building and finishing materials:

Liquid formulations

This is a huge class of products, including a variety of bitumen-polymer, polymer-rubber, polymer and other compounds. Including:

• intermediate primers for floors based on synthetic elastomers (polyurethane, epoxy, acrylic). They are applied to the prepared base, in some cases sprinkled with quartz sand to create an "adhesive bridge";

• mastics based on bitumen, bitumen-polymer or polymer compositions. These are classic and modified compositions that paint the screed in 1-2 layers;
• rubber-like polymeric materials (liquid rubber, hybrid MS-polymers). For the floor, waterproofing from such compositions is practically not used, since their purpose is not loaded surfaces. The exception is narrow-profile mixtures from Bostik (Aqua Blocker), Isonem (MS Polymer) and some others;

• impregnations on a polymeric, organic or solvent basis with a hydrophobic effect. These are special compounds that, after application, penetrate into the wood or mineral base, forming a waterproof barrier.

Insulating films

Made from polyethylene (HDPE or LDPE), polyvinyl chloride or polyolefin (TPO). For waterproofing under the screed, film products with a thickness of at least 150 microns are recommended. When installing the canvas, it is necessary to lay it with an overlap, and the seams must be tightly glued or welded.

Membranes and geomembranes

This is a modern class of materials made from dense polyethylene, PVC or EPDM rubber. The product is standard and reinforced, and the surface may have a slight embossing or a special form of profiling. Depending on the manufacturer, after laying, the joints must be welded, glued or connected using special locks.

The products are flexible, characterized by a high-density and tear-resistant structure, resistance to chemically aggressive liquids, sudden changes in temperature and frost.

Roll materials

Some of the materials may have an outer mineral coating on one or both sides. They are fixed by fusing or gluing, followed by sealing of seams and junctions.

Dry mixes

There are two types of products in this group:

Rigid or semi-rigid coating mineral compositions from cement, quartz sand, plasticizers and special chemically active additives (Ceresit CR 65, Sika-101A, Bergauf Hydrostop, Ivsil Waterstop).

Designed for the formation of waterproof coatings on non-deformable mineral bases inside and outside buildings.

Penetrating waterproofing compounds mineral type (Penetron, Isonem, Kalmatron, Hydrotex). These are complex mixtures with interesting way actions. After application, the product reacts with the base: polymeric or organosilicon additives that penetrate deep into the concrete convert the oxides and metal salts contained in concrete into more complex compounds - the so-called insoluble crystalline hydrates. A network of such crystals fills capillaries, microcracks, and multiple pores of the base. Due to the force of the surface tension of water, such an obstacle becomes an insurmountable barrier to the path of liquids of any type.

The first type of waterproofing mineral compositions is in the assortment of almost all manufacturers of dry building mixes. The latter belong to highly specialized products, they are preferred in cases where, in addition to the water barrier function, it is necessary to strengthen concrete (for compression) and increase its frost resistance.

Summing up, we note that rigid coating, liquid and penetrating waterproofing are excellent for both apartments and private houses. But according to membrane manufacturers, it is film and roll materials that, when properly installed, give a 100% guarantee of absolute water resistance of the structure.

Waterproofing technologies

The device of the hydrobarrier is carried out according to the standard scheme:

• Foundation preparation;
• isolation device;
• Sealing of seams and interfaces (if any).

The choice of the type of waterproofing depends, first of all, on the availability of materials (availability on sale), their cost and degree of reliability. But there is another important factor - the technology of formation.

IN civil engineering according to the method of the device, the hydrobarrier is divided into

Obviously, there are many ways to waterproof the base under the screed. And although the manufacturers claim that best result will give rolled materials, experienced craftsmen fundamentally disagree with this. The fact is that polymer-bitumen canvases and films have zero vapor permeability. Because of this, over time, the structure of the subfloor changes, air “chambers”, alkaline efflorescence, etc. are formed under the screed. Therefore, it is most often recommended to use hard mineral mixtures under the cement-sand layer, and all the rest - above it.

Our advice is simple. As you know, each case is unique. You may have some special conditions, technological features structures, etc. Therefore, before purchasing a water barrier material, consult with experts.

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If you are doing major repairs in the apartment, especially in the bathroom or in the kitchen, you will need to carry out waterproofing, and then make a floor screed in the apartment. This procedure will also not hurt in other rooms, but only if you live on the ground floor and want to protect yourself from basement dampness. Let's talk about what are the possibilities and dwell in more detail on specific waterproofing technologies.

Varieties of technologies

There are more ways to protect the premises from moisture penetration or water leakage, but here we will describe in detail only those that are used in the apartment. We will only mention that in private houses, where there is no basement, most often waterproofing is done using a gravel-sand cushion.

In high-rise buildings, vapor barrier films are very common, which make the floor waterproof, as well as protect concrete from the effects of water vapor from the floor slabs.

One of the most reliable ways is an additional cast coating. This technique requires significant financial costs, so it is not so often used in apartments, although this is possible.

The newest technology is a water-repellent impregnation that is applied to a concrete slab from any side, penetrates into its structure, and needle-type crystals form from the interaction of elements, which interfere with moisture.

For the best effect, you can use not one, but several methods at once.

Roll waterproofing

This technique uses a film with rolls that spreads on the floor before proceeding with the screed. In this case, it is necessary to form an overlap on the walls with a height of at least 15 cm in order to make the procedure more efficient. The parts of the film themselves must also be overlapped by 10-15 cm.

Step-by-step waterproofing technology:

• Fasten the damper tape around the entire perimeter of the room with dowels or an adhesive layer. It is designed to compensate for the expansion of the screed when a temperature difference occurs.
• If necessary, use mortar or sand to level the surface of the base on which the insulating layer will be laid.
• Lay the roll film overlapping and fix it with a gas burner or a building hair dryer (selected depending on the specific material - non-fusible or polymer).
• If a roofing film is used for waterproofing, it is laid in several layers, at least two. Other materials usually come in one layer.
• Then a floor screed is made, if necessary, it is pre-reinforced.

Waterproofing by impregnation

The technology of floor impregnation in an apartment takes much more time than laying a film under a screed. First you need to properly prepare the concrete base. First, it is cleaned of debris, and then treated with a primer, which is better to choose the same manufacturer as the main impregnation. Wait at least two hours for the primer to dry.

A primer is a special primer, thanks to which concrete adheres better to impregnating mastic (most often bitumen-rubber or bitumen mastic is taken for these purposes).

Before waterproofing, it is necessary to coat with a primer in one layer every centimeter of the floor. Particular attention should be paid to the space around plumbing and pipes, as well as joints with walls. After the primer dries, you can start applying the mastic itself.

To impregnate the floor in the apartment, use a roller or a wide brush, with which the mastic is distributed over the surface, and in several layers. At the joints, you need to take a thinner brush and coat everything very carefully.

Then you need to wait at least two days before performing the screed.

It is important to remember that after waterproofing, only plastic guides can be used, otherwise the protective layer may be damaged and the desired effect will not be achieved.

Coating waterproofing in the apartment can also be used on top of the main screed before laying the floor covering. In this case, you also need to wait a few days before starting the final work.

Cast insulation

As mentioned above, cast insulating coating is not widely used in apartments, but it can still be used, moreover, it is one of the most effective and unpopular only because of its high cost.

Cast waterproofing fills all the gaps that remain between the walls and the floor. For it, different materials with water-repellent properties can be used.

Before proceeding with the pouring, formwork must be built around the entire perimeter of the room.

Liquid asphalt mortar is heated to a certain temperature and spread over the surface in several layers. A metal scraper is used for leveling, after which you need to leave the room until the solution has completely dried. Sometimes the layer turns out to be uneven, and the only way to eliminate this defect is to fill the floor with an additional layer of insulating material.

Bath - a room with a high level of humidity and a special temperature regime. Therefore, all its elements require careful thermal insulation and vapor barrier, and the floors need waterproofing, which in some cases must be supplemented with sealing work.

What sealant is suitable for a bath

Taking into account the microclimate that is created in the bath, the main requirements for the composition for sealing joints and cracks in the floors are:

• moisture resistance;
• heat resistance, resistance to temperature extremes.

Also, the sealant must have good adhesion to the materials from which the base of the floor and the floor covering are made.

It is necessary that it is suitable for interior work and does not emit toxic substances, especially when heated. For sealing wooden structures a sealant with high elasticity is required, which can adapt to the thermal expansion of the wood. These requirements are met by acrylic, silicone and polyurethane compounds:

• acrylic sealants are great for wooden surfaces, but for rooms with a high level of humidity, you need to select waterproof (siliconized) compounds.

  Conventional acrylic sealants degrade quickly under such conditions;

• silicone have excellent water-repellent characteristics. For a bath, neutral heat-resistant compositions are suitable that can withstand a wide range of temperatures, acidic, with good adhesion to wood and ceramic tiles. You can use special sanitary sealants that are resistant to the spread of fungus;
• polyurethane sealants have excellent adhesion to wood, they exclude water leakage and floor blowing, cracking of wood, its damage by rot and mold.

Stages of installation of the floor in the bath

The bath is usually done on the ground floor, a concrete screed is poured under the floor covering.

It and the layers of the "pie" of the floor above must be protected from ground water. For these purposes, a pillow of compacted sand and crushed stone is poured under the screed, the crushed stone is impregnated with bitumen on top or covered in several layers with rolled (sheet) waterproofing - roofing felt, high-density film.

If the floors in the bath are insulated, the insulation must be protected from the penetration of groundwater from below and the leakage of moisture from above. Even before the installation of the floor, you need to think over the drainage system.

Usually, the floors are given a slight slope to one of the walls or to the center, and a drain hole is made in this place, installing a ladder through which water will flow into the pipe (gutter) and be discharged into the sewer, septic tank, filter well.

IN summer baths standing on loose and well-absorbing soil, make leaking (torrential floors).

Water flows through the cracks between the floorboards or specially made holes and is absorbed into the ground. Under the floor, a filling of filter material is usually done, it is advisable to additionally lay drainage.

If the soil is heavy, drainage is required. Such floors do not require sealing, are well ventilated, their main drawback is the impossibility of insulation.

Here is one of the schemes for installing a non-leaking floor in a bath:

1. A rough screed is poured (it is advisable to use concrete with water-repellent additives).

   Waterproofing the floor in the apartment before the screed

   The formwork is mounted so as to form a hole for the drain. A ladder is tried on to determine where in subsequent layers to make holes for it.

2. After the screed has dried, its impregnating, coating or pasting waterproofing is carried out with entry to the walls.
3. A layer of insulation is laid (high-density mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam) or expanded clay is poured.
4. Roll waterproofing is laid on top, a ladder is installed in the right place.
5. A finishing screed is performed, preferably reinforced (for the last layer of waterproofing, dense and durable materials must be used so that the reinforcing mesh does not damage them).

   Lighthouses are set up in such a way as to form a slope to the ladder of the order of 1 cm by 1 m.

6. Tiles, porcelain stoneware are laid on top of the glue. Under the tile in the screed, you can mount a floor heating system.

Sometimes wooden floors are laid in the bath. This option is more suitable for rooms with a normal level of humidity, where water does not pour on the floor - a dressing room, a rest room. Wooden floors must be ventilated, so they are laid on logs or crates on top of the logs.

A ventilation gap is left between the top layer of waterproofing and the wooden coating.

Wooden floors in the bath with insulation

In a wooden bath, it is important to protect the walls from contact with water.

To do this, along the perimeter of the floor, you can make a ventilated box from a bar treated with antiseptics and a gypsum-fiber sheet.

Bars of a small section (for example, 20x40 mm) and a height of about 20 cm are vertically screwed with screws to the walls above the floor at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other, the upper ends must first be cut at a slight angle. GVL strips are attached to the front vertical surface of the bars parallel to the walls in two layers. The upper edge of the strips should be approximately 2 cm below the end of the beam. Wooden planks of such a width are laid on the ends cut at an angle to cover the GVL strips, fastened with self-tapping screws.

It turns out an inclined surface - a drip.

What are the stages of sealing?

Sealing the floor in the bath is an addition to the set of waterproofing measures:

• if pasting waterproofing is performed, the joints of rolled or sheet materials must be sealed so that the waterproofing is continuous;
• if a ventilated box is made, the places of its adjunction to the floor, the joints of the elements of the dropper and the places of its adjunction to the walls are sealed.

  For ventilation, only a gap is left between the drip and the vertical cladding made of GVL - it does not directly come into contact with either the walls or the floor;

• cracks, seams in the finish coating, joints of the floor and walls are sealed to protect the insulation and concrete screed from leaks and water vapor. From dampness, concrete is gradually destroyed, the insulation loses its resistance to heat transfer, a fungus may appear under the coating;
• also need to seal the exit point of communications, in particular the drain.

If roofing felt or other bitumen-based materials are used for waterproofing, molten bitumen mastic serves as a sealant, which is glued with overlaps at the joints.

The joints of the film are usually sealed with construction tape, some materials at the joints are welded using a special soldering iron.

The lower part of the ventilated box at the corners and at the junction with the floor is glued with butyl rubber sealing tape.

The joints of the dropper elements with each other and with the walls are sealed with a paste-like sealant, it is best to use acrylic, for example, Accent 136 wood sealant, which is also suitable for sealing seams and gaps in wooden floors. The junctions of ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware to the walls and the exit points of communications are sealed, as a rule, with silicone sealant. The seams between the tiles are filled not with sealant, but with a special grout.

Finished ceramic tile flooring

Filling gaps in floors

Cracks often form in wooden floors.

Although for floor coverings tongue-and-groove boards are used, tightly closing with each other, over time, gaps may appear between them. This happens especially quickly in a bath, which is characterized by tangible fluctuations in temperature and humidity: wood is very sensitive to such changes.

In addition, under the influence of temperature and humidity fluctuations, the boards themselves crack, and the cracks can be quite deep.

If moisture penetrates through the gaps between the floorboards and the joints with the walls, which harms the lower layers of the floor structure, then through the cracks inside the boards, in addition to moisture, microorganisms penetrate, causing the destruction of wood.

Finally, such floors look unattractive, and walking on them is unpleasant. Therefore, cracks and gaps must be sealed.

Sealing gaps in wood flooring

There are different ways to seal cracks in wooden floors:

• small cracks and cracks are covered with putty on wood;
• if the gap is very large, you need to dissolve the rail into wedges (dowels) of the desired shape and size, put it into the gap, smearing it with glue, and putty the remaining small gaps;
• the gaps can be filled with epoxy resin, in deep ones, to reduce the consumption of material, a rope cord is pre-laid;
• used for sealing cracks and ordinary plumbing tow.

For rooms with a high level of humidity such as a bath, elastic waterproof sealants are best suited - acrylic siliconized, silicone, polyurethane.

They not only provide protection against leaks for many years, but also prevent further expansion and deepening of cracks and cracks. The sealant has excellent adhesion to wood and expands or contracts if thermal expansion or shrinkage of the wood occurs.

It retains elasticity after polymerization or vulcanization, does not crumble out of cracks and does not crack when the wood moves.

To ensure tightness, the surface must be prepared - cleaned of dirt, dust, degreased and sanded to roughen.

The surface must not be wet. You should also pay attention to the temperature and humidity conditions in the room - it must correspond to that specified in the instructions for the specific composition. Some kind of filler can be preliminarily inserted into deep gaps; a sealing heat-insulating cord made of polyethylene foam is well suited for this purpose. They produce a cord of different sections, so they can fill the gaps different sizes and shape, reducing sealant consumption.

It is most convenient to fill the cracks with sealant, squeezing it out of a special syringe gun, and level it with a spatula.

If non-leaking insulated floors are made in the bath, you need not only to take care of their waterproofing, but also to seal the joints, cracks and seams, due to which the waterproofing becomes less effective.

Joints of rolled waterproofing materials, floors and walls, places where the floor adjoins communications, seams and cracks in the floor covering are sealed. Depending on the task at hand and the materials whose joints are sealed, sealants of the consistency of paste or mastic, as well as sealing self-adhesive tape, can be used.

Appointment of floor waterproofing
Floor waterproofing materials
Roll products
Hydrophobic mastics
Special moisture resistant plasters
Penetrating waterproofing

Creating a screed is one of the most important and difficult jobs in arranging a garage space.

The waterproofing of a concrete screed is of great importance - the performance and durability of the floor covering, as well as the strength of the base, depend on its quality.

Waterproofing the floor before the screed: how to make a concrete base waterproof

From exposure to moisture over time, concrete begins to collapse, and in just a couple of years the floor surface may become unusable for one simple reason - cracks have appeared.

Waterproofing should be carried out in all rooms without exception, and in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen, this work should be given increased attention.

Appointment of floor waterproofing

Why waterproofing is required:

• to prevent leaks. High-quality waterproofing will protect neighbors from flooding and related material costs. This is also true for owners of private houses and garages, as internal leaks also happen.
• to improve the quality of the screed.

  If the concrete sets quickly, it will show small cracks. Therefore, they are trying to slow down this process: they cover it with polyethylene, moisten the surface. If waterproofing is present, the curing time of the concrete increases, and it becomes stronger.

Waterproofing in an apartment under a screed is necessarily carried out in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen, where there is the highest risk of flooding neighbors (more: "Waterproofing the floor in the bathroom - choose the material and method of implementation").

But experts recommend doing this work in residential areas, since there is water in the screed that can seep to the lower floor. In rooms, you can limit yourself to waterproofing at the joints of reinforced concrete slabs, walls and floors, in the area near pipes.

The owners of apartments on the lowest floor should also perform such waterproofing, as in the photo, since contact of the screed with cold and damp air currents will harm it. Concrete is a porous material that absorbs moisture and breaks down as a result.

As for whether waterproofing is needed under the screed in a private house, this is also a must.

Without it, the liquid will soak into the floor, and in just a couple of years, cracks will appear in the base that will ruin the flooring. For this reason, experts advise in private homes to perform waterproofing twice: before and after the screed.

Floor waterproofing materials

There are several types of materials for waterproofing, each of them is worth familiarizing yourself with in detail.

Roll products

Most often, these materials are a mixture of bitumen and synthetic components based on fiberglass. They are characterized by reliability and durability. Previously, they were made on a paper basis, which reduced the operational life.

There are such materials now, but, despite the low price, it is not recommended to purchase them.

Rolled waterproofing can be glued and built-up.

The first materials are attached to the base, and for the installation of the built-up materials, special construction burners are needed that run on gas and heat up the bitumen that is part of them.

1. First, the base is prepared: it is cleaned of debris and dust, and all cracks and other defects are rubbed with a solution of sand and cement.
2. When using roofing material, priming is performed with a bituminous emulsion.

   Base plates are additionally treated with penetrating insulating agents.

3. A damper tape is laid along the edges of the room. This is required to compensate for the expansion of the screed, which occurs during temperature changes.
4. Insulating sheets are laid with an approach of 15 centimeters on the walls and 10-15 centimeters on each other, due to which a kind of recess is created.

   If a particularly high-quality waterproofing of the rough screed is needed, for example, in the bathroom, then the material is laid in several layers, shifting the joints (read: “Waterproofing screed - how to do it right, choosing the floor option”).

5. The overlapped canvases are fastened with a building hair dryer. If welded materials are used, they are heated with a burner before fixing.

   Pieces of roofing material are attached bituminous mastic to the previous layer and base. The seams are connected in the same way.

6. When air bubbles and folds appear, these zones are pierced with a knife and smoothed well and thereby remove air. After that, the edges of the incision are bent, smeared with mastic and attached to the base.

Such waterproofing of a concrete floor screed is inexpensive and reliable, but it requires a significant amount of time and the availability of special tools.

Hydrophobic mastics

These are bitumen-based liquid formulations. They are applied with a brush, like paint. You can also use ordinary bitumen simply heated to the required consistency, but such waterproofing is less durable. Mixtures of bitumen with rubber or polymers are much better. Despite the higher price, such compounds are reliable, durable and easy to use.

Mixtures with additives of polymers are not dangerous at low temperatures.

The sequence of work is as follows:

1. Substrate preparation: cleaning dust and debris, removing various stains, including oil stains - they can interfere with the adhesion of the mastic to the surface. Cracks are eliminated with a solution of sand and cement, sharp protrusions and layers are eliminated.
2. Primer treatment improves adhesion.

   It is advisable to buy it from the same manufacturer as the mastic. The product is applied to the surface and allowed to dry for two hours. detailed instructions indicated on the product packaging.

3. Apply mastic with a roller or brush in several layers - each subsequent after the previous one after 3-4 hours. If more than 6 hours pass, the product will begin to polymerize and the new coating will peel off. The first layer is applied in one direction, and the next in the other.

   This improves the quality of waterproofing. In this way, places near the pipes, the joints of the walls with the surface of the plates or the base are treated. The width of the strip of mastic should cover the insulated places by 15 centimeters on each side.

   In rooms where there is an increased risk of leaks (kitchen, toilet, bathroom), it is recommended to combine several insulation methods. As for whether waterproofing is performed before or after the screed, in these rooms it is better to do it both before and after. The mastic dries completely within two days.

This type of waterproofing is reliable and affordable, environmentally friendly.

Mastic does not burn, it is easy to apply without the use of special expensive tools. The main disadvantage of this option is the low resistance to mechanical damage.

Special moisture resistant plasters

Dry screed waterproofing can also be carried out with the help of special plasters, which are diluted to a thick consistency (such as condensed milk) with water and applied with a spatula to a previously prepared surface.

The composition of such plasters, in addition to sand and cement, includes polymers that reduce the level of moisture absorption. After drying, a coating is formed that is resistant to mechanical stress and deformation.

Execution of works:

1. Prepare the surface and apply an insulating compound prepared according to the instructions.
2. It takes about 15 minutes to dry the first layer.
3. The second layer is applied in the opposite direction to the previous one, and then also allowed to dry.
4. The third, and if necessary, the fourth layer is applied in the same way.
5. For 24 hours, the surface must be moistened.

   Absolute drying lasts up to two weeks, depending on the mixture used. During this period, the surface does not need to be subjected to mechanical stress.

Such waterproofing of the floor after the screed is inexpensive and easy to apply.

The main disadvantage is that the composition dries for a long time.

Penetrating waterproofing

This method of waterproofing is considered the most effective. It changes the structure of concrete: during the reaction, crystalline insoluble formations are formed in it, which seem to seal the pores of concrete without damaging its structure, so that moisture does not penetrate into it.

In addition, the compositions used for this effect increase the resistance of floors to chemical attack. They are available in dry or liquid form.

Execution of works:

1. First, the surface is prepared - it is necessary not only to clean it and eliminate cracks, but also to moisten it abundantly, but so that water does not leak to the lower floor.

   Waterproofing the screed on the ground in this way is not performed.

2. The dry mixture is diluted in accordance with the instructions.
3. Before applying the composition, the base is moistened again.
4. Apply the first layer of the agent. Then they wait for the time specified in the instructions, and apply it a second time, after moistening the surface again.
5. The waterproofing is covered with a film or moistened regularly for two weeks until drying is complete.

This is especially true in rooms where there is an increased risk of flooding - bathroom, toilet, kitchen. In living rooms, doing double waterproofing does not make sense.

It is these methods described above that are the most popular.

But there are other compounds - for example, liquid rubber, bulk mixtures. The choice is influenced not only by the preferences of homeowners, but also by their financial capabilities, operating conditions of the premises. Waterproofing after and before the screed is carried out for a high level of protection against the ingress of water - this is not required in all rooms.

And waterproofing to the screed is performed in any case, even in living rooms, since when laying the screed, water can seep into the neighbors.

After completing all waterproofing works you can start to make a screed.

Experts recommend combining several methods at once to improve their quality - for example, along with mixtures that react with concrete, additionally coat the gaps between the slabs, the joints of the floor with the walls, and the places near the pipes with mastic.

The durability of the screed depends on how correctly the waterproofing technique was followed. Therefore, if you are not confident in your own knowledge and experience, it is better to seek help from professionals.

The screed is very capricious - when exposed to moisture, the concrete begins to collapse, minor cracks appear in it, which grow over time. As a result, the flooring suffers from this.

There is only one way to fix the situation - to start doing repairs again. So waterproofing must be done in accordance with all the rules, not forgetting even the seemingly insignificant little things.

A protective screed for waterproofing requires a significant investment of time and effort, but the base for the flooring is of high quality and durable.

Underground floor waterproofing

Waterproofing under the floor is necessary so that the liquid from the solution does not flow to the neighbors from the bottom and is not absorbed from the concrete substrate.

The process consists of several successive steps.

Obtaining a substrate

First, you must prepare the base surface for the planned floor. It must be horizontal, dry and clean. In case of unevenness, the ground is leveled with rough books that flow into previously exposed lamps. Further work can be done only after the solution has dried.

The surface must be free from scarlet coatings, dirt, paint, oil stains, dirt and dust, so that nothing can interfere with the adhesion of the material to the surface.

Zinc, cracks, depression should also be leveled with cement plaster. In addition, it is necessary to process the corners of the room: the rounding of a small radius should not exceed 3-4 cm.

example

If necessary, the treated substrate should be treated, if necessary, re-treated.

Preparation is seen as the first phase of building new soil. Before pouring the floor filler, the substrate is filled to fill the pores, while the consumption of material and the filling process depend on the quality of the surface itself. If it is rather porous, he first applies a deep penetration powder, which makes it less permeable, and then a dye is used.

In some cases the coating changes to white during application and then the work must be interrupted. The most common cause of this undesirable effect is increased humidity in the room.

In addition to providing high-quality adhesion, the undercoat acts as a hydrotechnical protection, which creates a barrier against moisture under the substrate.

Waterproofing properties for self-levelling floors

Basic principles of waterproofing works:

• Regardless of the type of waterproofing chosen, the layer must be continuous, which eliminates the risk of water penetrating under the floor structure.
• At the intersection with walls and other vertical surfaces, the waterproofing layer must be at least 10-15 cm vertically upward.
• If the substrate is of good quality, waterproofing can be done using adhesive tape that connects the closed and top plates of the coated mortar layer.
• To ensure that the finished mixture does not leak at the intersection with the walls, a special sealing tape is attached around the perimeter of the entire room, which is attached to the wall with a construction stapler.

Foil waterproofing

Mark the filling level of the floor filler on the wall and place the plastic film on the underlay so that the edges rise above this mark.

To improve the quality of adhesion, the surface of the film is processed, otherwise the floors may crack and crack in places.

Cement lubricated waterproofing

Dry the mixture diluted with water according to the manufacturer's recommendations. After mixing well, the composition is left for 5 minutes. During this time, the cement is saturated with water and chemical additives are activated.

Waterproofing the floor before the screed - how to protect the concrete surface

When mixed with a mixture, they begin to use waterproofing with one or three layers. For different rooms the total thickness of the insulation layer can be different:

• 3-5 mm - with constant pressure under pressure with water;
• 2-3 mm - periodic or constant contact with water without pressure;
• 1-2 mm - the possibility of a single flow.

Particular attention is paid to the corners and joints between floors and walls.

Treatment must begin with them. Given the increased chance of leakage, the joints must be reinforced with tape.

During operation, it heats up, and at the end it is additionally processed with a layer of the mixture.

Waterproofing is applied with a brush or spatula. Keep moving your hand in the same direction. The next layer can only be used after 24 hours, but it is important that the direction of the material is used perpendicular to the previous one. To ensure that the solution used does not dry out too quickly, the surface to be treated must be wetted with water or covered with a film for 1-2 days.

In the video below you can see how the waterproofing work is done.

The waterproofing layer must be checked for tightness.

If you find an error, this area is opened and reworked. To protect the floor from mechanical damage, it is recommended to fill it with a concrete screed.

Remember that no matter what type of waterproofing you choose, fill the floor only to a flat surface, so make sure it's flat when setting up the waterproofing layer.

Leveling a wooden floor without removing panels

If the wooden floor has lost its attractive appearance or is uneven, do not dismantle it immediately. It is better to use wood and wood leveling guidelines or use a decorative finish such as linoleum.

The work can be done without breaking the plates. Alignment of wooden floor coverings occurs in several stages. Let's consider them in more detail.

Preparation phase

First, you need to carefully examine the old wood floor. Assess the feasibility of restoration work.

Find out, by the degree of construction, how big the gender gap is in the apartment. Then measure the room at the same distance from the corners, mark the movements on the walls and also in the center of the floor. Using the level of the object, the distances are measured, the level of the fall of the surface is determined. In the absence of broken fibers, the presence small scratches, cracks, chips or damage to the paint layer, you can clean the hinge surface.

If the soil has a significant imbalance and the value of the difference in its various parts is more than 5 cm, then you can make screeds or put a layer of logs on logs.

Surface shading

If the difference between the soil level in different parts is no more than 3mm, wooden panels can be treated with acrylic seal or putty.

Before applying the putty surface, it must be filled. If the floor has a small surface, use construction pistol with acrylic seal. For a large surface of wood, an acrylic set is needed, which is sold in large quantities in buckets. It is not recommended to lay a layer of filler thicker than 3 mm. A colored pad of the same shade is used to obtain a finished surface in tone on the base.

If linoleum is to be laid on a leveled wood floor, the floor must be polished.

Wood mastic is used to repair defects in wood edges. If you need to solve the problem of how to level the wooden floor under the laminate, then for greater strength of the wooden substrate, instead of building materials based on acrylic, you can use a composition based on PVA adhesive.

For a layer not exceeding 2 mm, PVA is used for laying gypsum. At a higher layer height, the wooden boards are coated by extrusion or sawing with PVA-based wood.

Due to the increased adhesion of the compositions, it is used evenly for the floor, it is difficult and therefore the surface will require continuous sanding until a perfect leveling.

However, the base will be strong and can be used for laminate or linoleum.

Clutch processing

Soil cycling is a simple process.

Even a beginner can pull it out of the wooden floor with his hand. When machining, it is recommended to use a clutch. Before starting work, make sure that the plates are well fixed so that screws and nails do not touch each other.

Otherwise, the machine may crash. A layer of wood panel with a maximum thickness of 3 mm is mechanically removed. After removing the top layer of the wooden cover, all holes and cuts must be sealed with whales, the tone of which is suitable for the color of the base. Mastic is used to seal cracks. In hard-to-reach places, surface treatment is carried out manually.

Since the operation of the machine is accompanied by a lot of noise and dust. To protect your hearing and breathing from dust or noise, you need to use a mask, earmuffs and goggles. The processed plates must be cleaned of dust, covered with a sponge soaked in solvent, then coated with varnish or paint.

Sketch Options

There are two ways to level an old wood floor with a clutch:

• Pour a regular cement screed,
• use a self-levelling mortar.

When choosing the first option, it should be taken into account that a screed made of a cement mixture with a thickness of more than 5 cm increases the load on the foundation and the ground plan of the building by more than 70 kg / m2.

When using a self-levelling mortar for leveling a wooden floor, an elastic and smooth surface, which is suitable for all floor coverings, including linoleum.

Working with Self-Leveling Joints

This method can be used in a wooden house and in buildings with concrete ceilings.

First prepare the wood surface. It must be checked that the panels are firmly attached to the floor subfloor and that all screws and nails are screwed below the floor level. Then clean the wood floor, remove old layers of paint and clean the vacuum cleaner.

To seal the gap, a special wood mastic is used.

Apply a waterproof coat to the treated wood surface to ensure good adhesion of the substrate and the self-levelling compound. The upper limit of the mixture is indicated on the walls of the premises using the construction level. Placed on the floor reinforcing mesh, which connects an adjacent change of linen.

Then prepare the self leveling compound according to the instructions and charge. For a more even distribution of the mixture, you can use a rubber screw.

Waterproofing device under the sleeve

After drying, the coating is laid on the floor, for example, Linoleum.

Leveling a wood floor with a mixture is one of the easy and high quality ways to get a smooth finish in a flat or private home.

When and when is plywood used?

Covering an old wooden pallet with plywood leaves will hide even significant damage, and even the difference in sexiness is more than one centimeter.

Let's take a closer look at how to level a wood floor with plywood.

• First you need to choose the right sheet material. For a slight leveling of the underlay under linoleum or carpeting, you can use plywood boards about 1 cm thick.

  For flooring or laminate, use a film that is at least 2 cm thick.

• The environmental performance of the material is also important. They use FC or FSF plywood in a flat or private home. FC brand material is made without the use of phenol and is as safe as possible for human health. However, indicators of resistance to moisture and mechanical damage are average.

  Formaldehyde resins are used in the production of the PSF brand. Plywood does not have high environmental properties, but is more durable and resistant to moisture.

The leveling of the wooden floor with the help of glued plates is carried out using the first and second classes of wood material. Based on plywood, you can build linoleum or carpet.

Preparation of surfaces and materials for work

First you need to inspect the wood panels, fasten them tightly or replace damaged ones.

When looking for communication pipes under wooden base they are checked for damage or they need to be replaced. After fitting the plywood, replacement will be difficult.

Leaf material should be stored indoors for several days. Therefore, the humidity of the material and the air in the room will be the same. This will reduce the chance of deformation after installation. If you intend to install linoleum or laminate, you must provide ventilation holes.

Sheet fastening methods

There are several ways to attach the material to the surface of a wooden floor.

Plywood is mounted directly on the panel, logs are not used.

Adjacent material sheets are located at a distance of 0.5 cm and are at a distance of at least 1.5 cm from the walls. The mastic then refers to the deepening of the wood. The plywood leaves are evenly attached to the highest points of the subfloor.

If more layers of material are laid, brick technology is used.

Another way is to create a database in the form of a network of logs and boards.

Wooden or plywood magazines about 4 cm wide. The logs are fixed with walls of at least three centimeters. The sheet material is attached through the resulting base. Mastic is used to seal slots.

In case of large differences in the level of the first floor, mini-dimensions are set.

To obtain flat surface land as a result of the work, accurate calculations are made for the places where the mini-lagoon is installed, its height and size. Magazines are placed on special poles to increase the height of the carrier. Logs attached special glue or screws.

The flags can be replaced with a bunch of beaded wood or thick plywood called shabas.

The thickness of the supports is calculated from the difference in floor height. Shabas is located at a distance of about 40 cm from each other, forming a grid.

Plywood leaves are placed on the resulting mesh from the edges and fixed. To remove the gap, mastic is used on the tree.

To improve the thermal insulation and sound insulation properties of the floor, a thin layer is placed on insulating material on logs and between them. After plywood installation, it is recommended to apply varnish.

Linoleum or other finished material covered with decorative flooring.

Waterproofing works

Waterproofing works are carried out in order to protect building structures from exposure to the environment and aggressive solutions. The following types of waterproofing are used in construction: plastering, painting, cement-sand, asphalt, pasting and sheet waterproofing coatings.

To perform work in the underground part of buildings, impregnating, injection and sometimes backfill waterproofing is used. The types, types and sizes of materials and prefabricated parts, as well as the composition of mixtures (mastics, emulsions, pastes, solutions) allowed for use in waterproofing work, are determined by the projects of buildings and structures.

For waterproofing coatings, a wide range of waterproofing and reinforcing materials is used. The most common are bituminous and tar, mastic, concrete, roll, rubber-bitumen materials, a wide range of synthetic materials in the form of solutions, emulsions, resins, varnishes, pastes, films, sheets, as well as metal sheets and foils, special types concretes and solutions, etc.

As reinforcing materials, jute and chlorine fabrics, fiberglass and glass mesh, chopped fiberglass, asbestos, metal mesh, etc. are used.

In addition to protecting individual parts of buildings and structures (foundations, walls and floors of basements, floors of bathrooms, floors and walls of workshops with wet processes, etc.)

n.) waterproofing is also arranged in expansion joints of insulated structures; for this, expansion joints are filled with elastic bituminous mastic and covered in accordance with the project: metal expansion joints, profiled rubber tape, etc.

Outdoor waterproofing work is allowed at an outside air temperature of at least +5 °C and in the absence of precipitation.

During the period of work, the groundwater level must be lowered by at least 0.5 m below the base of the building or structure, measures are taken to reduce the inflow of water to the insulated surfaces - arrange temporary drainage in the base, compact the masonry by injecting solutions into it, etc.

P.; if necessary, drainage wells are arranged on the surface to be insulated, equipped with well pots (after waterproofing, the pots are filled with concrete mix and hermetically sealed with lids).

The preparation of the insulated surface includes cleaning, leveling, drying and priming for painting and coating insulation.

Before applying waterproofing coatings, anchors, hoods, pipes, etc. are installed. The surface of building structures to be insulated must be smooth and even; insulated surfaces of brick or stone walls are leveled with solid cement-sand grout or plaster; seams between precast concrete slabs must be filled with mortar; the protrusions of the reinforcement are cut off, the shells and recesses are sealed.

Various mechanisms are used to level surfaces. Straight and sharp corners between adjacent surfaces of structures are rounded, sharp corners intersecting walls are given an oval shape. When preparing the surface to be insulated, it is necessary to process the junctions, seams and junctions, reinforce them with sizing reinforcing fabric, mesh on bituminous mastic or special sealant. Sealable surfaces under most asphalt and polymeric waterproofing materials should be allowed to dry naturally.

Drying is also carried out using electric heaters, electric blowers, fans and other methods in which the insulated surface is not contaminated.

It is forbidden to artificially dry freshly laid cement-sand screeds during the hardening period of the mortar. When using aqueous emulsions and pastes, the surface should not be dried. Before applying paint and coating insulation, the surface is primed. To ensure reliable adhesion of the primer to the base, it is advisable to either preheat the surface or apply the primer in two layers. Conventional primers for bituminous mastics consist of 1 part bitumen and 3 parts thinner; in other cases, it is recommended to use primers from the appropriate base of the waterproofing coating, but in a more liquid state.

Plaster waterproofing is a waterproof coating of insulated surfaces, applied in several layers or bastings and having a thickness of 10 to 25 mm.

Plaster waterproofing can be of two types - cement-sand (shotcrete and ordinary cement plaster) and asphalt.

Cement-sand waterproofing is a layer of a solution that has hardened and firmly adhered to the insulated surface and has an increased density. Cement-sand waterproofing mortars are obtained by mixing a metered amount of sand, Portland cement (non-shrinking or expanding) and water.

For accelerated setting of the solution, ferric chloride additives are used; the ratio of ferric chloride to the mass of cement - 1:26, 1:22, 1:16. Solutions activated with ferric chloride are used for waterproofing underground tanks and other buried structures. They are applied to the surface in the form of a thin layer of plaster. In the presence of hydrostatic pressure, insulation is arranged from the side of its action, and in the absence of water pressure, from the inside and outside of the structure.

Cement-sand waterproofing is applied with a mortar pump in layers of 8-10 mm and a total thickness of 20-25 mm. The upper covering layer with a thickness of 5-8 mm is made from a solution on fine sand, followed by grouting with cement (iron). In order to avoid the appearance of cracks in the plaster, it is watered 2-3 times a day with a sprayed water jet for 10-12 days. To increase the setting time, sulfate-yeast mash is introduced into the mixing water in an amount of 0.2% by weight of cement.

When performing work manually, the surfaces to be isolated are divided into sections.

If the sites are fenced with beacon rails, then after removing the rails, the grooves are minted. The thickness of the bast set by the project is achieved by layer-by-layer (layer thickness 6-10 mm) application of the solution. When using a solution on Portland cement, each subsequent layer is applied after the previous layer has set, but no later than a day, and when using a solution on non-shrink cement, no later than 30 minutes.

For grouting surfaces, if necessary, apply a finishing layer of mortar (coating) with a thickness of 3-5 mm on fine sand after 12 hours when using a mortar on Portland cement and after 2 hours when using a mortar on non-shrink cement. For reliable adhesion to the solution, the insulated surface must be clean, rough and moistened with water. The same requirements apply to the surface of each hardened layer before applying the next one.

Cement-sand waterproofing can be reinforced in accordance with the project.

A cement gun is used to apply plaster by shotcrete; The cement gun is designed for applying a compacted layer of fine-grained cement using compressed air. concrete mix, continuous waterproofing layer.

Waterproofing the floor under the screed - how to do it yourself!

To prepare the mortar, non-shrinking cement or Portland cement of a grade of at least 300 is used. The sand must be clean with a moisture content of not more than 5%. Cement and sand are mixed in mortar mixers in a ratio by weight from 1:1.5 when shotcreting ceilings and upper parts of walls to 1:4 when shotcreting floors and lower parts of walls. Moisturize cement waterproofing: moistening should be started 8-12 hours after shotcrete and continue for two weeks 2-3 times a day when using Portland cement and for three weeks when using Portland pozzolanic cement; when using a solution on non-shrinking cement, the waterproofing is moistened first one hour after shotcrete, and then every three hours during the day.

Asphalt waterproofing is performed in the form of a continuous coating formed by applying hot asphalt mastics or solutions or cold emulsion mastics and pastes to the insulated surface.

Hot Stucco Asphalt Insulation is a watertight, ductile, and high-strength coating of several coats or coats of asphalt stucco applied to vertical surfaces. plastering method, and on horizontal ones - by flooding in a heated state at a temperature of 160-190 ° С.

Hot asphalt plasters acquire waterproofing properties immediately after cooling. Hot asphalt insulation is made from mixtures of the highest viscosity, which allows them to be applied not only on horizontal, but also on inclined surfaces. The isolated surfaces are divided into grips and tiers. The conjugation of grips and tiers in each layer should be overlapped to a width of at least 200 mm, and in adjacent layers - scrambled.

Hot mastic is applied in layers of 5-7 mm; the total thickness of the asphalt plaster according to the project is usually assumed to be 10-20 mm. Work is carried out in dry weather or under protection from atmospheric precipitation.

Cold asphalt mastic is obtained by mixing bituminous paste with mineral powder by adding additional water to the mixture, necessary to obtain the desired consistency.

To obtain cold asphalt waterproofing, several layers of bituminous emulsion mastics are applied to the surface to be insulated. Emulsion mastics are applied in layers of 5-8 mm to a thickness of 20 mm. The junction of the previously laid mastic strip and the one that has begun to dry with the freshly laid strip is overlapped by 15-20 cm. Each subsequent layer of mastic is applied to the previously laid one only after it has dried. Plastering work is carried out at a temperature not lower than +15°C.

Molded waterproofing is performed by pouring over the base and pouring into the cavity between the insulated surface of the building and the protective wall of hot asphalt mortar or mastic. Hot material is poured onto a horizontal surface and leveled with metal scrapers with a layer of 15-40 mm. The second layer is applied after preliminary heating of the edges of the first layer. Cast waterproofing of vertical surfaces is arranged by tiered pouring of hot mastic into the cavity between the surface to be insulated and the formwork or enclosing wall.

The pouring is carried out in tiers 20-40 cm high, the protective wall is erected from thin reinforced concrete slabs or brick. The vertical surfaces of the underground part of buildings are sprinkled with earth as the protective wall grows. When applying hot mastic to the walls, it is necessary to ensure that there is no accumulation of water in the cavity, from the contact of which with hot mastic it will boil up and be ejected from the cavity. The thickness of the vertical waterproofing depends on the hydrostatic pressure and is 30-60 mm.

Cast waterproofing should not have cracks, shells and delaminations. If necessary, horizontal and vertical waterproofing coatings are protected with a layer of mortar.

Painting and coating waterproofing is a thin waterproof film formed on the surface by painting with hot bitumen, hot or cold bituminous mastic, varnish or paints from perchlorovinyl, epoxy, furyl and other synthetic resins.

Painting waterproofing also includes surface coating by flame spraying. When installing paint waterproofing from bitumen and bituminous mastics, the insulated surfaces are preliminarily painted with bituminous primers.

Primers are prepared from three parts of gasoline or white spirit and one part of bitumen (by weight) and applied with spray guns, spray guns or brushes. Paint insulation is applied with a layer of 0.2-0.8 mm, coating - with a layer of 2-4 mm. Painting and coating waterproofing cracks during deformation, settlement and vibration of structures, therefore they are not used for crack-unstable structures, as well as in buildings and structures where settlement has not yet ended.

When installing paint waterproofing, hot and cold bituminous mastics are applied to the surface to be insulated using a bitumen gun. For applying cold bituminous mastics, electric spray guns, hand spray guns and spray guns are also used. Painting with varnishes and enamels from synthetic resins (perchlorovinyl, etc.) is carried out on previously primed surfaces. To do this, use special factory-made primers or primers from the same resin and varnish as the insulation, diluted with an appropriate solvent.

Primers are usually applied in two layers. The number of layers of enamel and varnish is specified in the project. Perchlorovinyl compositions must have a temperature not lower than +15 ° C. Primer, enamel and varnish are applied with intermediate drying of each layer: the duration of drying of each layer of primers is at least 2-3 hours (depending on air temperature).

Each layer of enamel or varnish is dried for the same amount of time at a temperature of 15-20 ° C.

Paint and coating layers are applied in 2-3 steps to cover all the missing places of the lower layers.

The total thickness of the coating depends on the materials used and is when applying hot bitumen, sand and mastics 2-4 mm, and liquefied - 0.8-1.5 mm, bituminous pastes - 1.5-3 mm, bitumen emulsions, varnishes and paints - 0.5-1.5 mm. On top of the paint (coating) insulation applied to the underground parts of buildings and structures, protection is provided in the form of clay castles or a plaster layer of hydrophobized soils.

The prepared clay mass is laid in layers with tamping into the formwork, which is removed as the sinuses of the pits are filled with soil.

Hydrophobized soils are a mixture of sand or loam with petroleum bitumen dissolved in green oil; such compositions are applied to insulated surfaces with a layer of 10-15 mm like ordinary plaster.

Pasting waterproofing is a continuous waterproof carpet, made by sticking several layers of rot-resistant roll materials onto the insulated surface: roofing felt, waterproofing, isol, brizol, waterproofing fabrics (cotton, linen, hemp, jute and others impregnated with antiseptic and bitumen), fiberglass, plastic sheet or roll materials (polyvinyl chloride, polyisobutylene, etc.).

Bitumen and bitumen-rubber mastics, bitumen-polymer alloys are used for stickers. Gluing waterproofing is applied to the surface from the side of hydrostatic pressure or moisture. Roll materials with bituminous impregnation are glued on bituminous mastic, and with tar - on tar. The thickness of the layer of adhesive mastic for each layer of insulation is 1.5-2 mm. The number of insulation layers is specified in the project.

Glue the panels to the surface from the bottom up. In each layer, each subsequent panel should overlap the previous one by at least 10-12 cm in the longitudinal joints and 15-20 cm in the transverse ones. Joints in adjacent layers are spaced apart at a distance of at least 30 cm from one another. The panels in all layers are rolled out in one direction. Cross arrangement of panels in adjacent layers is not allowed. The seams are puttied with hot mastic. Additional layers of waterproofing are glued along the corners and at the installation sites of compensators and embedded parts.

At the end of the gluing of bituminous rolled materials, the surface of the waterproofing carpet is covered with a finishing protective layer of hot bituminous mastic 2-2.5 mm thick and sprinkled with hot sand.

Before sticking, polyisobutylene plates are rolled out, straightened and kept in this position for at least a day, cleaned of talc with a 15% solution of laundry soap and warm water, and polyvinyl chloride plastic sheets are sorted, degreased, cut.

Polyisobutylene plates are attached to the surface with glue or compounds obtained on the basis of bituminous mastics with a layer thickness of 1.5 mm. The edges of polyisobutylene and PVC plates are welded. Sheets of films are rolled from top to bottom, overlapping the laid strip by 20-25 cm. The lower ends of the sheets are welded to the projections of the waterproofing of horizontal surfaces or to strips sheet material glued at the intersection of horizontal and vertical surfaces.

The waterproofing must be even and free of dents, air or water pockets and bubbles. Loosely glued areas must be cut, dried and re-glued. Insulating work in the open air should be carried out only in the absence of precipitation on a dry base.

Sheet waterproofing is made of steel (at least 4 mm thick) or plastic sheets, which are connected by welding.

Before the waterproofing device, steel sheets are straightened, cleaned of rust, and checked for squareness. When insulating horizontal surfaces, steel sheets are installed on corners, tees or channels embedded in the supporting slab of the structure or in a protective fence.

A gap of 25-30 mm is left between the sheets and the surface to be insulated, which is filled with a cement-sand mortar under pressure or compacted by vibration. When erecting concrete walls, metal insulation is used as a formwork installed before the walls are concreted; the formwork is connected to the insulated structure using anchor ties; metal sheets and anchors are covered with two layers of anti-corrosion protection.

Waterproofing from vinyl plastic sheets protect structures from aggressive influences. Plastic sheets are attached to the surface to be insulated with adhesive and then welded.

Capital repairs of the apartment should begin with the arrangement of the floors. Before laying a new coating, it is imperative to form a screed. It cannot be implemented without preliminary work. Waterproofing the floor before the screed is an integral part of the preparatory process.

Justification for the need for waterproofing

Many builders consider waterproofing a waste of time and material, but it is necessary. With her, the apartment becomes cozier and more comfortable. Waterproofing has a positive effect on such points as:

• Protection of the apartment from moisture.

In the absence of waterproofing, moisture vapor from the lower floor or basement can penetrate into the screed. In a private house capillary moisture and water vapor rises from the ground. Having an alkaline or acidic environment, they strongly interact with the components of the concrete coating. As a result, it becomes covered with cracks and collapses.

• Protection of the lower floors from leaks.

Crane failure, breakdown washing machine, water flowing over the edges in the bathroom - all this can lead to flooding of neighbors from below. Moisture, having gone into the ceiling, after a while will appear on the ceiling of the lower floor. High-quality waterproofing will help to avoid unpleasant moments.

Features of the waterproofing device in the bathroom are reflected in the video:

• Protecting the health of the household.

In a humid environment at a warm temperature, fungi and mold successfully spread, which negatively affects the physical condition of a person.

• Increasing the strength of structures and coatings.

They also tend to break down when exposed to moisture.

• The quality of the screed and the ease of laying the finished floor.

Important! Waterproofing before the screed should be done in all rooms, not just in the bathroom or kitchen. IN concrete mortar contains moisture. Hydroprotection provides it with gradual evaporation, which positively affects the strength and quality of the screed.

Preparation and some features

Waterproofing in the house has its own nuances. Maximum protection is needed for a dwelling without a basement, located on the ground floor, due to the close proximity of the ground. Previously, the floor surface is sometimes leveled with special mixtures, and if there was a redevelopment of the room, then a tread layer is laid on the base.

Partial waterproofing does not provide maximum protection, and water finds a place to seep through. That is, if possible, it is best to make a complete waterproofing, and in rooms with a high level of humidity, not only the floor, but also the walls should be protected.

Preliminary work

The room in which the waterproofing is planned to be laid must be completely empty. After that, the overlap is completely “bare” and cleaned (from dust, dirt and other debris). Next, a careful check of the plates and joints begins.

Any cracks, every loose joint between the plates is carefully sealed. Selective correction of defects in the future threatens with heat losses and leaves ways for noise to penetrate into the room. It is most logical to solve all problems immediately, and not leave them until the next repair.

If the basis is reinforced concrete floor, you can not do without the composition of penetrating waterproofing, for example, "Betonokontakt". Prices for it vary, ranging from $ 1.3 per 1 kg. The costs will be relatively small, because impregnation is required only for rooms with high humidity: kitchen, bathroom and toilet. The rest of the rooms are recommended to be covered with simple primers. Thus, the floors will be protected from destruction and even bad smell dampness will disappear after a while.

Types of waterproofing

There are several types of waterproofing. Below are the most common ones

Sand pillow. For a private house without a basement, a gravel-sand pillow is best suited. In this case, crushed stone or gravel is laid under the screed. After careful tamping, it is covered with sand. The result is a kind of pillow with air gaps.

Waterproofing, due to structural features, protects the base from the capillary passage of groundwater. To exclude the harmful effects of water vapor, you should use additional film vapor barrier.

• Film waterproofing. Vapor waterproofing films are used not only for waterproofing the floor in houses, but also in apartments. With their help, a waterproof coating is created. As a result, the screed is protected from vapors and moisture, and the floor slabs are protected from water leaks.
• Coating waterproofing. It is carried out using mastic made of rubber or bitumen. It is able to fill any irregularities in the base. The protection is applied in several layers.
• Impregnation waterproofing. Relatively new, but simple and effective floor waterproofing before screed. Differs in the increased resistance to the destroying influence of moisture. The protective coating applied to the base impregnates the concrete and interacts with its components. As a result, needle-shaped crystals are formed, which protect the floor from moisture. Polymer or polymer-bitumen solutions are used as a waterproofing material. The penetration of water into the pores of concrete only helps to strengthen the base.
• Adhesive type. It is also called rolled waterproofing. Protection treated with bitumen and synthetic compounds. Moreover, it has a fiberglass base. The material repels water and does not suffer from hostile effects chemical substances that are contained in it. Demanded in private construction and renovation of apartments.

Laying technology

Depending on the material used, different methods are used. When working on them, certain points should be taken into account, for example:

• To ensure reliable adhesion of mastic layers, each subsequent layer must be applied no later than three hours after the previous one.
• Adhesive-based roll materials are excellent for pasting protection. They greatly increase the speed of laying.
• Polyethylene film is best suited for insulating a wooden floor.
• Liquid moisture protection agents turn into a thin film after drying. Its maximum allowable thickness is 3 mm. The material is applied with a brush and renewed every 5 years.
• Ideal floor protection is created by combining several types of waterproofing.

Sand cushion device

The process consists of the following steps:

1. Foundation preparation. From the soil, which is located under the future floor, the upper fertile and chemically active layer is removed. The earth is being leveled.
2. Gravel laying. Crushed stone with a fraction of no more than 5 cm is poured over the soil. The material is leveled and rammed (large differences in height are not allowed). The thickness of the embankment should not be less than 0.2 m, and with a close location of groundwater, the minimum level increases to 0.5 m.
3. Sand filling. Compacted gravel is covered with coarse sand. A layer thickness of 0.1-0.4 m is allowed. Sand is poured with water and compacted. This material should fill the pores in the rubble.
4. Geotextile laying. It has shock-absorbing functions and protects the insulation and waterproofing from possible damage. Glue the material with a building hair dryer.
5. Foam insulation pad. Any material with increased mechanical strength is used. Penoplex and polystyrene are best suited.
6. Foundation waterproofing film or roll materials (if necessary).

Roll waterproofing device

The process involves the following points:

1. Cleaning and leveling the base. Potholes and irregularities are rubbed with cement mortar.
2. Primer with bituminous emulsion. It is only necessary if you plan to use roofing material (as a waterproofing). If desired, the floors can also be treated with penetrating waterproofing (for additional protection).
3. Damper tape. It is stretched along the perimeter of the floor and fixed with plinth dowels or glue.
4. Roll material flooring. The sheets are laid so that they overlap, overlapping each other by no more than 10 cm and closing the walls by at least 20 cm. Roll waterproofing can be laid in several layers, the main thing is to glue them together.

Important! The roofing material is laid in two or more layers, gluing it to the ceiling with bituminous mastic. Films are usually stacked in one row.

1. It is customary to fix the welded materials with a gas heater, and the polymer films are welded with a building hair dryer.
2. Elimination of blisters. The place where swelling appeared is cut with a knife and smoothed with a spatula. After, the edges of the material are bent, smeared with mastic and glued.
3. When the waterproofing is laid, you can start reinforcing, but it is not a mandatory item in the "program".
4. Protruding pieces of tape and waterproofing are removed only after the screed has dried.

Installation example roll waterproofing- on video:

Coating waterproofing technology

Laying consists of the following steps:

1. Foundation preparation. The surface is cleaned of dust and debris. The process removes all sharp edges and stains from active substances and oils in order to avoid destruction of the insulation during operation.
2. Primer treatment. It increases the adhesion of the mastic. Dries on average 2 hours. It is recommended to buy both mastic and primer from the same manufacturer. The primer should be applied with a brush, in one layer. Especially carefully should be processed the joints of walls and floors, corners and space near the pipes.
3. The ideal option is bitumen or bitumen-rubber mastic. Its price is quite democratic, starting from $ 0.8 per kg. The material is applied with a roller or brush, moving in different directions. Coating with the next layer is carried out only after the previous one has solidified.
4. Screed filling. As a rule, waterproofing dries completely in 2 days, then they proceed to reinforcement.

Important! Usage metal fittings may damage the insulation. It is much safer to use fiberglass guides. They are light and strong.

Floor on the ground - the most common solution in the construction of small country houses. Also, a similar method is in demand in the construction of outbuildings, the creation of cellars and in a number of other cases. The arrangement of the floor on the ground is considered a very laborious undertaking, however, the cost of the entire complex of works is low, which allows the technology to occupy a leading position in the work carried out independently. In order for everything to be done with high quality, and the house turned out to be comfortable for living, it is especially important to complete all the stages, taking into account their specifics. Floor waterproofing on the ground is just one of these.

As is clear from the very word "waterproofing", its task is to prevent the penetration of moisture into a certain space. As for the implementation of floors on the ground, then the need for high-quality insulation is obvious. Groundwater in the soil layers tends to permeate the subfloor materials by capillary action, thereby destroying them.

Harm from penetrating water manifests itself in two aspects:

1. Water vapor and liquid droplets gradually saturate the foundation materials of the house. The salts dissolved in water are corrosive and slowly destroy the structure of both wood and concrete, shortening the life of the floor in the house.
2. Climatic changes lead to the fact that water that has entered the pores of wood or concrete, freezing and melting, creates an increased porosity of materials. The result of the processes is the slow transformation of wood into dust, and concrete to gradual cracking.

Thus, the creation of a waterproofing layer allows you to protect the floor of the house from the negative influence of the aquatic environment.

Very often you can hear questions about whether it is possible to create a floor on the ground in any house. Practice shows that there are no restrictions in this matter. The soil can be completely dry or with close groundwater - it's not scary. Properly selected layers of the base, waterproofing and other coatings allow you to get a high-quality result in any case.

The floor on the ground is suitable for small country houses, utility rooms, verandas, basements

Mandatory stages of work and materials used

The floor on the ground is created on a layered base, the task of which is to prevent the appearance of holes and failures due to the natural subsidence of the earth. This structure is called a "pie". Its design directly depends on what kind of soil is under the house under construction.

Important ! It is worth noting that the floor on the ground and its waterproofing must be carried out only at the stage of building construction. Otherwise, it will not be possible to correctly perform all technological processes.

If we consider the location of all layers, regardless of the type of soil, the depth of groundwater and other factors, in the “bottom-up” direction, then the sequence will be as follows:

1. High density soil. There are no additional materials - the work is carried out with a natural earthen base, which must be strongly compacted. To carry out the work, special equipment is used, most often a level.
2. Bedding. There will be two layers, each about 10 cm. The materials will be crushed stone and sand. In this case, the crushed stone should be of a large fraction, any sand. Their main task is to prevent the capillary penetration of water into higher layers, as well as to create a leveling base for further work. You can replace crushed stone with expanded clay, but only on condition that groundwater is located no closer than two meters to the base. Both layers must be compacted as much as possible.

For information ! It is unacceptable to replace crushed stone with broken bricks or other similar material.

Ground floor pie

After all three layers (soil, crushed stone and sand) are sequentially laid and compacted, you can proceed to the next stages, the choice of which is determined by the ultimate goal of construction activities. It all depends on whether the floor will be wooden in the house or concrete. The waterproofing work also depends on this decision.

Wooden floor: structure and features of waterproofing

Laying a wooden floor is carried out in the following sequence:

• The erection of support columns for laying the log.
• Post surface treatment coated waterproofing.
• Roofing material laying as an additional barrier against water penetration.
• Laying wooden logs.
• Subfloor equipment. Two solutions are possible here: a plank floor or a floor made of sheets of moisture-resistant plywood.

At the stage of creating a subfloor, there comes a moment when it is necessary to solve the issue of waterproofing. There are two options.

The first technology for the formation of waterproofing is that moisture-resistant plywood is used for the subfloor, thick sheets of which are distinguished by high insulating parameters. To achieve the best result, it is worth laying plywood with any of the options for waterproofing film. It can be a rolled diffusion membrane or a polyethylene film (at least 200 microns). The laying features include the presence of a mandatory overlap of 15 cm, as well as the mandatory use of adhesive tape for gluing joints. After laying the waterproofing, a subfloor from the boards is mounted.

Wooden logs are covered with plastic wrap - this is how one of the waterproofing layers is formed

The second technology is that the laid subfloor is covered with polyethylene film, providing a margin of 20 cm for the vertical walls. After that, it is worth laying a layer of polyethylene foam, which is known as a reliable waterproofing material.

Important ! If you combine both technologies, the issue of floor waterproofing on the ground will be resolved. In addition, there will be a reserve of insulating properties in case of uncalculated water manifestations.

The structure of the concrete floor and the specifics of waterproofing

The concrete floor on the ground is also equipped on the basis of the three primary layers of the "pie", but requires a more thorough and serious approach. The specificity of the work lies in the fact that the soil has a mobile structure, and concrete is a solid monolithic material. The formation of layers, including waterproofing, must combine these two conflicting factors. The issue can be resolved in one of two ways.

The first option implies the following sequence of work on the formation of layers:

1. Fine gravel layer. Follows immediately behind the sand layer.
2. An analogue of a rough screed, that is, a thin cement-sand layer, poured as a mortar onto the laid gravel. Permissible height differences in the rough screed are no more than 3 mm for every two meters.
3. Two layers of roll waterproofing. In this technology, roofing material or roofing felt is recommended for use. The only restriction is that there should not be any sprinkles between the layers. Joint insulation is provided gas burner.
4. Thermal insulation layer.
5. Clean screed.

Standard concrete floor waterproofing

The second option for laying a concrete floor on the ground differs significantly in layers and materials:

• Polyethylene film. Creates the first waterproofing barrier over the sand base layer. The required coating thickness is 200 microns. All joints must be sealed with adhesive tape or other impervious adhesive-based material.
  

  Important ! The layer will not serve as insulation in the presence of even minimal damage. That's why mandatory requirement To polyethylene film- its integrity.

• Rough screed, for which a standard version of a cement-sand mixture based on fine gravel and river sand was used. The layer thickness is limited to 50-70 mm.
• Waterproofing layer of rolled material. You can use any option: a membrane or roofing material.
• Insulation.
• Clean screed.

If necessary, which is shown by calculations for the location of groundwater, additional waterproofing of the floor on the ground can also be carried out.

The polyethylene film will serve as an excellent waterproofing layer only if it does not have any kind of damage on it.

Additional floor insulation measures

The whole feature of the technology is that a layer of oily clay is added, and then the layered structure of the “pie” takes on the following form:

• Soil that is compacted to maximum density;
• A layer of oily clay - can be replaced with two layers of roofing material;
• crushed stone;
• Sand;
• Impregnation of the last two layers with bitumen;
• Rough screed with a thickness of 50-70 mm;
• Waterproofing using roll materials;
• Vapor barrier;
• Clean screed.

The final stage - the device of the finishing screed

conclusions

It often seems that it is not difficult to reproduce the layered structure of the "pie". However, the floor on the ground includes not only waterproofing work. This also includes determining the height of the floor in relation to the doorway, and modifying the layers according to real conditions and soil characteristics. In addition, you need to understand exactly how it is worth positioning the floor on the ground relative to the strip foundation and take into account a lot of various little things.

High-quality floor waterproofing on the ground - a reliable barrier to water molecules

All this is easy when the approach to work is professional, that is, the floor is laid on the ground by people who have repeatedly performed such actions. When specialists work, the probability of errors tends to zero.