In a private house      03/08/2020

Which wire is attached? Fasteners for wires and cables on the wall and ceiling. Using mounting guns. Staples from a construction stapler

Today, any premises (residential, office or other purposes) are unthinkable without laying communications in the fences. These are wired electrical networks, television and Internet cables. Long gone are the days when attaching cables to the wall, including electrical wiring, was done only outside the fence. This was done due to the imperfection of the insulating coatings of the conductors.

Modern polymer coatings make it possible to “hide” cable and wire communications in an array of room fencing. In some cases, the wiring is made open or the cables are laid in plastic boxes. The most common methods of attaching wires and cables to walls and ceilings are discussed in the article.

Types of fastening cable and wire communications

There are many known methods and types of attaching wires and cables to walls. Among them the following are often found.

Open wiring

Includes:

  • quick-drying solution;
  • dowel-clamp;
  • dowel tie;
  • clips;
  • installation site;
  • nail staples.

Quick drying solution

Fixing with a quick-drying solution is the easiest way to fasten a wire. Attach the wire to the unplastered brickwork You can use alabaster or other quick-drying mortar using a spatula. They do it like this:

  1. One or more wires are pulled along the cement joints of the brick or cinder block masonry;
  2. Dilute alabaster, gypsum or a quick-drying special mixture with water;
  3. Considering specific gravity cables or wires, the worker attaches communications to the brickwork with a spatula and alabaster;
  4. Installation of cables or wires is carried out gradually as the applied cakes from the solution harden.

Important! It is necessary to ensure that the alabaster is most closely connected to the masonry seam. This ensures high adhesion of the fastening on the walls.

In this way communications are carried out in non-residential and utility rooms. As a rule, such fasteners are temporary.

Situations arise when fastening cables with quick-drying mortar to a brick or concrete wall will be ineffective and will not withstand the required load. Then it is better to use dowel clamps. The cable fastener is a plastic loop with a dowel-shaped end with ribbed edges. Externally, the clamp resembles a bracket. Fasten the wiring with dowels in this order:

  • holes with a depth of 30-40 mm and a diameter of 6 mm are made in the wall along the marked line with a puncher;
  • holes are made at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other;
  • The cable is threaded through the loops, with hand force or a gentle blow of a hammer, the dowels are inserted with the jagged end into the mounting hole.

Installation of wiring is carried out in a short time, ensuring reliable fastening of conductors to the wall.

The dowel-screed is similar to the dowel-clamp. The difference from its “brother” is that the noose can be tightened. This ensures reliable bonding of several conductors into a tight bundle.

Installation of dowel ties is carried out in exactly the same way as installation of dowel clamps. After laying the wiring, the end of the loop protruding from the lock is tightened using pliers.

Clips

The fastener is made of durable plastic. The clip is a platform with mounting holes and two brackets.

Clips for fastening cables in the form of clips are mounted in this way:

  • along the marking line of the cable route using a perforator do mounting holesø 4 mm;
  • plastic dowels are hammered into the holes;
  • clips are installed on the wall, driving screws through the fastener holes in the dowels;
  • the cable or a series of wires is pressed into the clips, the upper and lower fastening brackets clamp the wiring, holding it securely on the wall.

Note! Clips are selected according to the size of the cross section of the wiring. The size of the fastener must be such that not a single bracket breaks, and at the same time, the bundle of wires must be sufficiently dense.

The clips serve as a reliable support for fastening the corrugations. Cable and wires are pulled inside the corrugations. The hoses are secured with clips. The advantage of corrugated hoses is that they bend easily at an angle.

First, choose a corrugation of the desired diameter, and then choose clips with a suitable internal size staples

This simple mount uses a self-adhesive effect. From the outside of the site removed protective film. The platform is pressed against the wall. Fasteners are securely glued to the surface of the vertical fence. There is a special hook on the platform that clamps the cable.

The disadvantage of such fasteners is their weak load-bearing capacity. The sites are designed mainly for laying a single Internet or television cable. IN as a last resort, you can stretch several thin wires through the pads.

This type of fastener is used to fix low-current wires (telephone wires, TV cables, etc.). The nail bracket holds securely in the wooden wall.

Sometimes they are driven into a plaster wall, but they do not stay there well. Staples need to be hammered into plaster in much larger quantities than is done in wooden walls. If there is a lath under the plaster, then you need to hit the wood with a nail.

Hidden wiring

A universal way of laying communications is hidden wiring. The method has a number of advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages

  • Absence technical details on the surface of premises fencing;
  • The interior of the rooms does not “suffer” from the presence of wiring on the walls, which spoils the appearance of the walls;
  • Simple and reliable installation of electrical wiring does not cause any particular difficulties.

Flaws

The disadvantages of hidden wiring include the fact that when changing or adding conductors you have to open the grooves. The production of work is associated with the emergence of large quantities dust and subsequent wet processes.

During repairs, you have to search for old wires under a layer of plaster and topcoat.

Hidden wiring in the wall

  1. The installation points of electrical fittings are marked on the walls and ceiling;
  2. Then draw lines with a marker or pencil to punch the grooves. The width and depth of the groove depends on the number of wires and cable diameter;
  3. Using a puncher, grooves are punched along the marking lines;
  4. Otherwise, two parallel cuts are made with an abrasive wheel along the marking line;
  5. Using a chisel and hammer, knock out concrete or brick in the cut area. If the wall material is difficult to give in, then punch the groove with a hammer drill with a chisel tip installed;
  6. Cable and wires are laid in the channels;
  7. The wiring is fixed with alabaster in increments of 300-400 mm;
  8. The laid communications are covered with a layer cement mortar using a spatula, but not flush with the wall surface;
  9. Then they are puttied with the starting composition;
  10. The finishing putty is finally applied;
  11. The dried putty is sanded with emery, bringing it to a smooth state;
  12. Finally produce finishing walls

Additional Information. For the purpose of the device reliable protection The wiring is placed in a polymer shell - corrugation.

Corrugated hoses are produced in different diameters, which are designed for laying from one cable to a whole bundle of various conductors. The corrugation allows you to replace one or another wire without disturbing the external coating of the channel. When laying communications in corrugation, they try to avoid creating right angles to the laying paths.

When replacing a single cable, a cord is attached to its end. Then the conductor is pulled out of the corrugation. A new cable is tied to the cord and the new cable is pulled in the reverse order.

Plastic boxes

In order not to punch grooves in the walls, you can get by with a less labor-intensive method of attaching cables and electrical wiring to the walls. Industry building materials manufactures a wide range of plastic boxes. Products can be selected in the desired cross-section and color.

The fastener consists of two parts: a box and a cover. The lid snaps tightly onto the box body. The cable channel is attached to the wall with dowels. Communications are invested in plastic products. The channels are then covered with external panels.

IN Lately On sale you can find soft PVC boxes. The advantage lies in their extreme flexibility. Thanks to this quality, it is possible to go around any corners, both internal and external, with one channel strip. There is no need to connect rigid panels together in the corners with special fittings. It is enough to bend the box in the desired direction, lay the cables in it and close the channel with the same flexible cover.

Skirting

The designers at one time realized that the internal space of the plinth could be used for laying cable and wire communications. Currently, the building materials market offers wide choose models of skirting boards with the possibility of placing fixed cables and wires inside them.

The design of some skirting boards consists of a rectangular channel divided by a stop. The stop divides the internal space of the plinth into two channels. The channels are closed by a figured strip with a longitudinal latch. The latch fits tightly longitudinal groove stop

The base of the plinth is secured to the wall with dowels. The dowels are installed at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. For the education of internal and external corners install special fittings. After laying the cable and wires, install the top panel by snapping the lock.

If you need to arrange any construction works, then you don't have to worry about choosing, suitable materials or tools, since the modern market is filled with everything necessary for such a purpose. This also applies to fasteners for various wires, forming an electrical wiring diagram.

But not everyone knows which wire fastener is better, and we will try to help amateurs figure it out self-execution various installation work. Although, more advanced craftsmen will also be interested in familiarizing themselves with some ways to create high-quality fastening of wires.

Now let’s figure out how to profitably lay and secure electrical wires in a room, so that you can easily plaster the walls, seal up used grooves without interference from communications.

To do this, you need to remember only two rules:

  • It is necessary to lay wires in optimal places in the room so that they can be accessed and do not interfere with any construction work;
  • High-quality fastenings will be required for various types wiring to ensure the longevity of the created communications.

Next, consider the various types of fasteners that provide durable wiring in any room. The installation process may seem very simple, and it really is! But only if everything is done correctly based on knowledge of the electrician.

You should look at the photo of the wire fasteners to navigate their appearance, as this will minimize the possibility of erroneously purchasing the wrong fastener.


The fact is that many of them are very similar, but designed for different purposes. And they may not be suitable for the intended wiring option if they are not intended for this option.

What fasteners can be used for electrical wiring?

Their list is quite extensive, but we will highlight the most popular types of wire fasteners related to open and closed versions. Let's start with hidden installation:

Dowel clamps

Dowel clamps are considered the most popular, as they are distinguished by their simplified use and low price.

But it is not difficult to get confused in them due to the abundance of different species that differ functional features and external form.

The simplest version is considered to be “bracket”. It is made on a plastic basis and has jagged ends with a width of about 8 mm. The size along with the shape can be chosen based on the need to create a quality fastening.

But the fixation is not very reliable, since this fastener does not have a spacer part. Because of this, these types are not used for ceiling wiring.

But dowel clamps for fastening have a spacer part and are considered a more reliable product for forming high-quality wiring. The design is based on a plastic rod base for using a hammer to drive the fastener deep into a pre-created socket.

What is the difference:

  • Can withstand loads of up to 8 kg, which is enough for home electrical wiring;
  • Thanks to the clamp, you can secure power cables, smooth-walled versions of pipes and corrugations with a diameter of no more than 32 mm.


Important: This type of fastener can only be used once, so we recommend that you mark the points for its installation correctly.

Installation site

The version with the name “installation platform” is considered a hybrid option, since it includes the capabilities of the two fasteners considered. Externally, it is offered in the form of a dowel based on a mounting head, which has an input for creating a plastic or metal tie. Created using nylon or polypropylene

If a strong base was used, then it is distinguished by reliable fixation in the wall, which is due to the special shape of the rod. Due to this, you can securely secure one cable or several wiring lines.

Important: If it will be used outdoors, you must ensure that it has UV protection. This will be written in the product instructions.

What are the differences between surface-mounted fasteners?

They are used after the repair has been completed, if the electrical work has not been carried out before its completion. Such mounting hardware is simple, but will require an increased level of attention and accuracy, since the wires will remain open to the eye and can spoil the design. Let's look at the main types:

Wires hidden in channels are used most often, since this option is distinguished by reliability, aesthetic beauty and low cost. Externally, it is offered in the form of a pipe with a rectangular shape and a removable outer part. It can be fixed to the wall using various fasteners: screws, self-tapping screws or nails.

After high-quality installation, wires are placed in the internal cavity and covered with a lid. The market offers many different surface colors of the product, allowing it to fit into any interior.


Clips are used if the wiring is covered with polymer corrugation. But this type has a sloppy form and is rarely used in residential premises, but is often used in enterprises, shops and other institutions of this type. Due to the special qualities of additional insulation, it is ideal for installation outdoors.

But sometimes it happens that based on the room it is difficult to use one of the popular types of fastening. In this case, it is necessary to rely on special fasteners. These include metal tape and aluminum tape.

Photo of wire fastening

When installing open wiring, fastening the wire or cable to the ceiling or wall can be done different ways. One of the frequently used installation options is based on the use of special fasteners - clips. Depending on which conductor needs to be laid, it is fastened in a pipe, a corrugated sleeve, or openly, whether there are requirements for appearance wiring, clips for wires and cables are used, having various designs and sizes. Below is an overview of these mounting products.

Clips with stud

Designed for securing wires or cables with a diameter from 6 mm to 14 mm. They are used for installation of power and lighting circuits, as well as telephone and network computer lines. Made from heat-resistant and wear-resistant polypropylene, capable of operating at temperatures from -5°C to +140°C. Fastening to a wall or ceiling is carried out using the nail included in the kit. The nail is made of hardened steel and its length varies from 8.1 mm to 14.9 mm. Clip sizes can vary from 4 to 12 mm (diameter for attaching a round cable). For a flat conductor, the marking indicates two sizes, for example, 5.7 * 10 mm. Manufacturers claim the ability to install such products on any surface except metal. In practice, it is still more convenient to hammer nails in a more soft materials, for example, wood, plasterboard, foam concrete, raw brick.

The size of the clamp is selected so that the wire or cable fits tightly into it, allowing slipping only when a noticeable force is applied. Before starting installation it is necessary. The clamps must be placed at equal intervals. In places where the route bends, the clips are located in close proximity to the bend on both sides of it. After installing the next fastener, the wire or cable should be pulled well along the marked route, install the next fastener and hammer in a nail, keeping the conductor taut.

There is also a special stapler for attaching staples. The video below clearly shows how to use this device:

Clips for mounting corrugated or PVC pipes

In the case when a cable or wire is laid in a corrugation or PVC pipe, it is convenient to use elastic plastic clips - latches, shown in the photo:

They are made by injection molding of plastic, equipped with stiffeners that ensure the strength of the grip of the pipe or corrugation. The use of high-quality plastic allows the product to maintain mechanical characteristics in a wide range of operating temperatures. Fastening is done with a self-tapping screw. The size range is represented by clips with installation diameters from 12 mm to 50 mm. A feature of this product are special grooves on the side surfaces of the clip, thanks to which, the clips different sizes can be combined into blocks when parallel laying of several cable lines is required.

You should begin work by carefully marking the wiring route. Clips or blocks of them must be attached at equal distances. If several lines are laid in parallel and the clamps are combined into blocks, it is not necessary to attach each of them to the wall, it is enough to secure one of the three or four connected clamps. Depending on the material of the wall or ceiling, the clamp can be fixed either by screwing in a screw directly (for wood or drywall) or in advance. drilled hole(for metal or plastic). For installation during installation of the cable clamp on brick or concrete, it is better to use a dowel-nail the right size. The installation ends with the installation of the pipe in the latch and a slight pressure until it enters the groove, accompanied by a click. We talked about this in more detail in a separate article.

The photo below shows a variant of a clamp that fixes sealed pipes or corrugations. It is equipped with a clasp that provides a tighter fit. This clamp, like the previous one, is installed under a screw.

Decorative clips

Structurally, these products are similar to mounting clamps with studs. Thanks to decorative form, such clamps allow you not only to produce, but also to give the room the required style, as well as beautifully. An example of the use of such clamps is shown in the photo below.

Another example of decorative cable clips is shown in the following photo. These self-adhesive universal clips are attached with double-sided tape and are designed to secure the cables of phone chargers and computer peripherals. Velcro clips are convenient to place on any smooth surface.

An overview of this type of product is provided in the video:

Cable clip CL

One of the simplest types of wire fastening is in the form of a clamp. Made from plastic or metal. The dimensions of the products allow for fastening cables and wires of different sections. The diameter of the clip varies from 5 to 20 mm, the corresponding markings are: KL-5, KL-12, etc.

The simplicity of the design, low cost and not very high decorative qualities of such a fastener suggest its preferable use for preliminary fixation of the conductor in the groove.

Dowel clamps

This fastener is designed for mounting round or flat conductors. When exposed, they are the least visible of all types of fasteners. Transparent clips of this design are suitable for wiring of any color. Can be used for hidden wiring, in a groove. Very easy to install. A hole of the required diameter is drilled in the wall, the conductor is tucked into the clamp, then the clip is inserted into the hole and pushed in until it stops. The disadvantages include the relatively low fastening strength, and therefore such clips are used when installing relatively light wires and cables.

Laying an electrical network in a structure made of timber or logs in a hidden way is too expensive and difficult. However, strict regulations of the PUE prohibit open installation of power cables in rooms with characteristic steam generation and high content moisture. It’s easier, cheaper and more convenient to install boxes that combine the advantages of open and open wiring closed type. Anyone can install these protective devices without any problems. House master. No difficulties will arise if the future performer learns how to attach the cable channel and how to correctly lay the wire in it.

Electrical boxes are the simplest design, made of galvanized steel alloy, aluminum or durable, flame retardant plastic. Their main element is a two-meter profile with a U-shaped section, which must be attached to the wall. They put it in power cable And low current wires, then close with a lid. That's all there is to it, actually.

But the simplest process at first glance has several important nuances. These are something that an independent master should find out so that the result does not require modifications or major alterations.

The family of electrical boxes used in organizing electrical wiring in an open circuit includes:

  • wall cable channels with one-way or two-way lock;
  • floor plinth with sections for wires, mainly low-current;
  • ceiling analogue of its predecessor;
  • floor systems with protection from mechanical impact;
  • trays and corrugated pipes, used mainly for wiring in utility rooms and on the outer sides of walls.

Because operating conditions oblige to put practicality at the forefront of the choice, floor options It makes no sense to consider even for arranging rest rooms in bathhouses.

For aesthetic reasons, let's leave thoughts about wiring in corrugated pipes and in trays for outdoor work.

Let's look at the most common type of cable laying in a wall channel made of plastic. These are the cheapest and easiest to process boxes that do not require master skills or special knowledge from the performer.

What kind of cable channel does a bathhouse owner need?

For organizing electrical wiring open type They now produce a wide range of products of various shapes, sizes and colors. Affordable white plastic boxes with a length of 2 m or more with variations of a couple of tens of cm predominate on sale.

For those who want to choose products exactly to match wooden walls There is a chance to buy channels of the required color. There are complex systems in stores with a full range of accessories for forming a network of any degree of complexity. There are mini-channels without additional accessories, facilitating installation.

Cable channels are not cut to the sizes required by the buyer in stores. You will need to prepare the sections for installation of the main yourself. You will need to stock up on a hacksaw for metal, better than a grinder. You will need a miter box for cutting workpieces at an angle.

The choice determines the purpose of the work:

  • if the task is to use or sockets, it is enough to purchase an overhead version of this electrical installation product and buy one mini-channel for it;
  • if the electrification of the bathhouse will be done from scratch, it makes sense to buy partially or completely a set of channels with accessories: corner and T-shaped adjustable elements, plugs, devices for installing sockets, distribution boxes, switches, etc.;
  • If you plan to set up a simple circuit yourself with cable routing in inexpensive plastic boxes, you need to first draw up a diagram, calculate the footage of the channels and stock up on accessories of the same brand.

Buyers of the integrated system will receive along with a pleasant purchase detailed instructions about installing basic and additional elements to connect them into a single highway.

DIYers who decide to use mini-boxes to organize electrical wiring will not be offered instructions. This article will be useful to them about how the cable channel is laid and what rules must be followed.

Wiring device in the cable channel

You should be prepared for the implementation of any idea, and even more so such a responsible one as the electrification of a bathhouse. It is necessary to think through everything in advance, provide for it and, of course, distribute the stages of work.

If you are interested in lighting options in the bathhouse, we recommend that you read the article

Those who decide to lay a cable in an electrical box will have to:

  • draw up a drawing of the object being developed with exact dimensions;
  • decide on the number and type of wires that will need to be laid in the cable channel;
  • select the optimal wiring route and plot it on the plan;
  • buy boxes with accessories according to the diagram made;
  • mark the path of electrical wiring;
  • properly prepare the box for installation;
  • build a channel for laying the cable;
  • lay the wires, secure them correctly and close the covers;
  • install switches and sockets.

To lay power and low-current wires in one cable channel, it is advisable to purchase a box with sections. Power and low-current lines should not intersect or twist into a bundle, otherwise interference will occur during signal transmission.

The cable should be laid in a cable channel, the size of which allows you to freely place the entire set of required wires in it. The lid should snap effortlessly so that the entire structure does not “swing open” from an accidental touch.

When purchasing, be sure to check the cable channel cover for closure. Don't be embarrassed by the seller, "click" the lock several times. It would be a shame if you already established basis the lid simply will not “stick”.

Planning is a guarantee of success in work

The wiring in the box belongs to the category open circuits, therefore, there is no need to strictly observe horizontals, perpendiculars and verticals. After all, the route is completely visible. Those. If you want to hang the shelf on the wall, there will be no threat of accidentally breaking the cable. Diagonal lines, all kinds of zigzags, steps are acceptable. However, the owners’ irresistible craving for clear geometry most often forces them to adhere to the strict directions characteristic of closed scheme wiring. Usually the lines are parallel to the planes of the floor and walls, extended along the windows and.

You can draw the route as you please. The main thing is that there are no situations for accidental damage to the electrical network, and also that the switches and sockets “attached” to it are convenient to use.

There are no regulatory regulations regarding the installation of open wiring; there are recommendations:

  • it is convenient to use the switch if it is installed near the door on the handle side at a height of 90 - 160 cm from the floor plane;
  • It is advisable to retreat min 15 cm from the ceiling, min 10 cm from the window opening;
  • Horizontal wiring lines and electrical installation devices should not be located closer than 30 cm from the floor plane due to the possibility of accidental moisture during cleaning. An exception is a plinth with a cable channel, but it is often used for laying low-current wires used to connect the Internet, telephone, and antenna.

According to the diagram we made ourselves, we purchase material, purchase accessories, and stock up on cutting tools.

It is advisable for beginning craftsmen to stock up on a box that is 10-15% larger than the calculated footage. There is no need to immediately cut all the material into the sections required for installation. In fact, deviations characteristic of domestic construction will certainly be revealed.

It’s better to act sequentially: measure it 7 times - to be sure, attach it to the installation site - carefully cut it - attach it. And so on with each segment, to mount it on the wall you need to mark the installation location in advance with a simple pencil. In the process of marking the future route, you do not need to focus on the interface lines floor/wall, wall/ceiling, etc. Check the actual position with a level gauge and plumb line.

Options for mounting the electrical box

The method of fastening electrical boxes is determined by the material from which the walls are made. Those who want to do self-installation plastic cable channels can:

  • it is commonplace to glue the base to a wooden, wallpapered, painted wall, to a partition made of moisture-resistant plasterboard or lined with plywood, or any board made from pressed wood waste;
  • screw with galvanized screws to a wooden surface;
  • fix the base on concrete or brick wall using dowel nails;
  • combine the adhesive method with self-tapping screws.

Boxes with adhesive tape placed on the base in the factory are available for sale, but they are preferred to be used for organizing temporary wiring due to doubts about reliability.

The boxes must be cut together with the lids snapped on them. When constructing a route from several segments, you must try to ensure that the junctions of the two bases do not coincide with the junctions of the lids. Simply put, swap the lids: first cover the long section with the short lid, then the long one, and vice versa.

Specifics of gluing cable channel

Gluing is as easy as shelling pears, but you need to take into account that you need to completely forget about dismantling the glued box. You can’t just tear it off, only together with a piece of the wall or its decoration. True, installation will require a minimum of effort and time, from Supplies only glue, for example, “liquid nails”.

The algorithm is as follows:

  • We apply the adhesive composition in a kind of zigzag with a step between the “tops” equal to approximately 1.5 times the width of the box;
  • We apply the base treated with glue to the wall, but do not fix it on it, but remove it to the side;
  • wait until the remaining adhesive trace on the wall thickens;
  • install the channel in place and press firmly;
  • again we wait for the glue to harden.

For your own peace of mind and increased reliability, you can supplement the adhesive fastening with nails driven along the central axis of the box in increments of 50-60 cm.

Only after hardening will it be possible to begin laying the cable, which for convenience needs to be fixed in the channel. For permanent fixation, special plastic holders. Thrifty craftsmen can use available devices: pieces of the cover or the cable channel itself. Temporary fixtures will undoubtedly need to be removed before attaching the cover.

Advice. It is more convenient to lay the cable in the constructed system, alternating with snapping the cover. Installed part of the wiring in the channel, then clicked it, etc.

The nuances of using self-tapping screws

On inner surface The base of the channel must first be made with holes. In a narrow profile they can be arranged along one line, in a wide box in a zigzag pattern. The pitch between the holes depends on the quality of the wall alignment. For flat surface 50 cm is enough. If there are small gaps between the cable channel attached to the installation site and the wall, the step should be reduced to 30-40 cm. In general, “gaps” between the wall and the electrical box are undesirable. Installation of channels is carried out on a carefully leveled base.

We apply the section of channel cable prepared for installation to the wall and screw the screws through the formed holes.

Subtleties of using dowels with screws

The method is quite labor-intensive, used for constructing a cable line over brick or concrete walls:

  • prepare the base of the channel: drill holes in advance;
  • we apply it to the attachment point in order to mark the points of upcoming wall drilling through the existing holes;
  • Using a 6-mm drill, we drill holes at the marked points for dowel-nails of the recommended size 6×40;
  • again we apply the base of the box to the attachment point;
  • insert the dowels and tighten the screws.

Without experience in installing boxes, it is not advisable to drill the base directly on the wall and immediately insert dowels. It’s good if the result of errors is closed directly by the cable channel. And if not?

Instructions on making corner joints

The main requirement of this work is the absence visible to the eye“gaps” between the elements after snapping the covers. To avoid any cracks, you need to carefully measure and cut carefully, using a metal blade and a miter box or trimmer. Therefore, those who want to build a cable channel system on their own are strongly recommended to use accessories that hide all the flaws.

Minor mistakes can be masked with color-matched sealant, but there is still a way to create a neat corner transition. Instead of cutting two pieces at the traditional 45º angle, you can simply cut the walls of the bases to their full width. In such cases, the boxes are installed with an overlap. Cuts and cutouts on the walls of the cable channel are made with metal scissors.

We are convinced that there are no special tricks in fastening electrical boxes. Connecting sockets and switches to the mains laid in them is done in a standard way. If the performer is patient and mobilizes his own accuracy, he can rightfully be proud of the result.

Despite the abundance of various wall and floor light sources for rooms that have appeared in recent decades, the use ceiling lamps, chandeliers in the apartment remain justified and necessary. After all, only the light falling from above can provide the necessary illumination of the entire room. Very often, various electrical appliances - air conditioners and fans - are placed under the ceiling.

For these devices to operate, it is necessary to provide uninterruptible power supply their electricity and at the same time without damage to the interior of the premises.

Types and methods of execution

Based on the material used for the conductor, the wiring is divided into manufactured:

  • from copper;
  • made of aluminum. Regulatory documents currently allow the use of aluminum only for products with a conductor cross-section of at least 16 mm 2, so such wiring is almost never used inside buildings.

According to the method of execution, electrical wiring is divided into:

  • open, located on the surfaces of ceilings, walls, along beams, trusses;
  • hidden, located inside parts and structures of buildings. Wiring made in the voids of partitions and behind ceilings is also considered hidden.

When laying on the ceiling, the material of the ceiling is also taken into account.

On reinforced concrete floors

In buildings with monolithic or prefabricated reinforced concrete floors, open wiring is very rarely used. In this case, installation is carried out directly on the surface of the ceilings, on insulators, in boxes, electrical corrugated tubes (corrugations), pipes, metal hoses, and cable ducts. Temporary wiring may be carried out freely suspended.

When attaching wiring to the surface of ceilings, nail staples are used (in this case, nails are driven into pre-assembled dowels), dowel clamps, and dowel ties. Before installation, mark the location of electrical appliances, lamps, and cables on the ceiling.

To install wiring in pipes, corrugations, and metal hoses, special clips or dowel clamps are used. At the beginning of work, places for attaching lamps and cables are marked on the ceiling. Then the installation of pipes, corrugations or metal hoses is carried out, in which cables are pulled using wire. More often, in buildings with reinforced concrete floors, hidden wiring is carried out along the ceiling.

If the ceiling is monolithic, the wiring must be provided at the stage of manufacturing the structure; for this, the cables are placed in plastic or metal pipes, which are attached to the reinforced frame even before laying the concrete mixture.

They should be secured to structural reinforcement using plastic ties or wire.

Attaching wiring to supporting rods is not permitted. To replace the wires, they are simply pulled through embedded pipes using steel wire, or the old wire being replaced is used as a conductor.

The installation of permanent wiring embedded in panels and monolithic floor structures is not allowed.

In national teams reinforced concrete floors For installation of wiring, voids in the slabs are used. The location of lamps and devices on the ceiling is marked. After this, the plate is drilled in the required places, and the cable is pulled using wire. It must be taken into account that this installation method is applicable if the direction of the wiring coincides with the direction of the voids in the slab.

If there is no possibility of laying inside the structure, it is permissible to install permanent wiring under a layer of plaster. For this, flat cables are used, which are attached to the ceiling with wire, steel tape, nail clips before plastering works. The second way is to plaster the ceiling and lay the wiring in grooved channels. There should be no intersections of flat cables when laying under plaster. If this is not feasible, the insulation at the intersections is reinforced with three to four layers of insulating tape.

It is strictly prohibited to ditch floor slabs or monolithic structures.

It is also unacceptable to lay cables in the seams between floor panels.

On wooden floors, beams, trusses

For wood structures, wiring can be either open or hidden. Open wiring on the ceiling it is carried out in the same ways as on concrete structures. All installation products must be made of metal or non-flammable material.

Fastening wiring to the ceiling using insulators in modern construction used extremely rarely, mainly to imitate an antique interior in an apartment. More often, wiring is installed in corrugated or metal hoses, which are mounted to the ceiling using clips. Often pipes are also used that are secured with clamps. The cables are pulled into pipes or sleeves fixed to the surface using steel wire.

Increasingly, for electrical wiring devices wooden surfaces plastic cable ducts are used. This material does not support combustion, and the plastic is painted during production and imitates the texture of wood. Cable channels of a suitable cross-section are fixed to the ceiling surface using screws or self-tapping screws.

In places of bending, cable channels are cut at an angle. This is convenient to do using a carpenter's miter box. Special products for bending and branching are also produced. They significantly simplify the installation of electrical wiring on the ceiling. Next, the cables are placed inside and closed with snap-on covers.

Hidden wiring is carried out using wooden ceilings in a layer of plaster, under drywall, or inside ceiling structures.

When installing in plaster, cables must be fastened along an asbestos strip or along steel tape. Cable clamps or nail clips are used to secure cables.

It is strictly forbidden to secure the cable by nailing it between the conductors. If the wiring is installed in channels cut into the plaster, it is possible to attach the cables with a quick-drying mortar with the addition of alabaster.

When performing, it is not necessary to groove the channels, since the sheets are attached to a frame made of metal profiles. Mandatory, when laying for suspended ceilings, place cables inside metal pipes, which make it possible to localize a wiring fire if a short circuit occurs. It is allowed to use steel water and gas pipes or copper.

The diameter of the pipes must ensure the installation of the required number of cables of the required size. Before use, pipes are inspected and crumpled ones are rejected. Next, they are cut into pieces of the required length and cut at the ends steel pipes carving It is imperative to remove nicks and burrs that can damage the cable insulation.

Pipe sections are connected to each other with angles or couplings. Copper pipes bend with special pipe benders.

It should be noted that when installing wiring of any type in an apartment, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of replacing it due to physical wear or tear. emergency situation. If done correctly, they will ensure long-term and safe operation of the entire building or structure.