How to properly assemble scaffolding. How to make scaffolding with your own hands. Self-tapping screws or nails

Correct installation scaffolding is a guarantee of the safety of workers during various works on high. Therefore, you must strictly follow the assembly rules below.

General requirements for the installation of all types of scaffolding

The process of installing scaffolding of all types can be divided into several stages:

• Preliminary work.
• Work site preparation.
• Direct assembly and installation of scaffolding.
• Checking the reliability of installation.

Let's take a closer look at each of the stages.

Preparatory stage

Before proceeding with the installation, the management of the organization conducting work at the facility appoints a person responsible for the production of work, who must have special knowledge and skills. It is under his control that the installation process will take place.

The responsible worker must:

• study the design of scaffolding and the features of their installation site;
• to accept a set of equipment from the warehouse, check its completeness and serviceability;
• develop a scheme for installing scaffolding for a serviced facility;
• make sure that the installers have permits that allow them to work at heights;
• instruct installers on safety precautions, as well as familiarize them with the device specific model scaffolding and assembly scheme.

At the stage of preliminary work it is also necessary:

• install temporary protective fences along the border of the danger zone, the dimensions of which are calculated in accordance with SNiP 12-03-2001 "Safety in construction" Part 1 " General requirements”and SNiP 12-04-2002 “Safety in construction” Part 2 “Construction production”. So, for forests 30 meters high, the width of the danger zone should be at least 7 meters. If a protective net is hung on the scaffolding, it is allowed not to mark the boundaries of the danger zone;
• post signs warning about work at height, guided by the requirements of GOST 12.4.026, as well as signs indicating the schemes for the movement of workers, the placement of goods and the maximum permissible load;
• deliver a fully tested and serviceable kit to the installation site scaffolding;
• install and test equipment necessary for the assembly of scaffolding (roof crane, electric winch, etc.) - it is important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations lifting mechanisms;
• check safety belts and replace the faulty ones, if any;
• prepare the site for the installation of an auxiliary structure.

job site requirements

• For the installation of scaffolding, it is necessary to prepare an asphalt concrete or dirt platform with a width of at least 3 meters.
• The ground area should be cleaned of debris, leveled and compacted (if the soil is wet, then compaction is carried out with crushed stone, concrete, broken brick and etc.).
• If necessary, it is necessary to organize the drainage of surface and ground water from the site for the installation of scaffolding .
• If the scaffolding installation site has a height difference, then the platform must be leveled horizontally in the longitudinal and transverse directions. For this purpose, concrete plates or boards with a thickness of at least 40-55 mm.

The order of assembly and installation of scaffolding

The technological process of mounting scaffolding of all types consists of assembling the first, second, third and subsequent tiers and fixing them on the facade of the building. This process will be discussed in more detail below.

When installing scaffolding, a number of important points should be considered:

• At the time of installation electric wires located at a distance of less than 5 meters from the structure should be de-energized or put into wooden or plastic boxes. Contact of scaffolding elements with electrical wires is not allowed.
• The assembly of the auxiliary structure must be carried out in strict accordance with the scaffolding passport.
• Installation, as a rule, starts from the corner of the building or structure along which they are planned to be installed.
• Under the shoes (thrust bearings) or screw supports of the scaffolding, special linings made of boards are installed, the thickness of which should be at least 4-5 cm.
• If the configuration of the walls does not allow the installation of scaffolding with shoes supported on the ground, then the scaffolding is mounted on support devices at a height.
• The vertical structural elements are interconnected according to the "pipe to pipe" principle.
• The method of connecting horizontal and diagonal scaffold connections depends on their type: for frame scaffolding - using flag locks; for clamps - using special clamps; for wedge scaffolding, special wedges are used.
• The verticality of the structure should be controlled with a plumb line after the installation of each tier.
• Scaffolding is fixed to the wall with anchors or factory-made metal plugs. To install them in the wall of the building, holes are drilled in a checkerboard pattern every four meters, the depth and diameter of which must correspond to the selected anchors.
• When laying flooring, it is necessary to control the gap between the boards - no more than 5 mm; protrusions of boards - no more than 3 mm and overlapping with joints of the flooring of supports - no more than 200 mm.
• To protect against electrical discharges, scaffolding must be equipped with grounding and a lightning rod.
• Protective fences must be installed on the working and safety tiers of scaffolding.

Quality requirements and work acceptance

During the installation of scaffolding, three types of control are carried out: input - checking the completeness and serviceability of the scaffolding, current - checking compliance with the installation technology, as well as control during the acceptance of work, which is carried out before the start of operation.

The main controlled parameters and characteristics, methods for their measurement and evaluation are given in the table.

To accept the work, a special commission is created, which must include the assembly manager, the chief engineer of the construction organization and the safety officer. The acceptance of scaffolding is formalized by an act of acceptance of work - only after that you can begin to operate the structure.

Instructions for assembling and installing frame scaffolding

Consider the assembly and installation scheme using the example of frame scaffolding: auxiliary structures of this type are among the most common among construction organizations.

Stage 1. On the prepared site, wooden linings and thrust bearings are installed. It is necessary to ensure that the supporting surfaces of the frames of the structure are strictly in a horizontal plane.

Stage 2. Installation of frames of the first tier and connecting them with horizontal and diagonal braces. Fencing frames are mounted along the edges of the required length of the scaffolding

Stage 3. Assembling frames of the second tier. Diagonal connections should be set in a checkerboard pattern. During installation, crossbars are used, on which the flooring boards are laid.

The cost of installation services - from 110 rubles. / m2

For a detailed calculation, please contact our managers by phone or via.

Scaffolding- one of the most popular designs, without which almost no construction can do. If you are building a house, a summer house or a country cottage, then do not rush to give money for ready product. In our material we will share the best instructions how to make a design yourself.

1. What are scaffolding: a brief educational program

In the most general sense, scaffolding is a frame device created from constituent parts and sections, the parameters of which are standardized to world standards. They are designed to protect the activities of workers who are working on the construction or restoration of multi-storey buildings.

1.1. Types of scaffolding

Scaffolding is made from metal and wood. And now let's see what modifications there are, depending on the type of connection of the components included in them:

Wedge. They are indispensable when using massive materials and knots. So, you can be sure that they will not let you down even with the most ambitious front of work. Another significant plus is the speed of dismantling.

Pin. Especially loved by foremen for the speed of assembly / disassembly of the product. Based on the name, it is the pin that is the connection node.

Frame. They are relevant for finishing manipulations with plaster and paint. They differ from the rest in a special frame, which is rigidly fixed with diagonal and horizontal racks with nodal fasteners. The cost will not hit the wallet.

Clamp. By themselves, they are quite complex in execution: they are applicable at objects of increased importance. Produced according to the individual parameters of the room. Literally all the nuances are taken into account here.

Let's take a closer look at the installation methods for each type of scaffolding.

1.2. Device

Products have details such as:

• jumpers for flooring;
• spacers;
• enclosing element;
• stops;
• plank flooring;
• racks;
• ladder (ladder).

2. Do-it-yourself rules for mounting wooden and metal scaffolding

The first step begins with a well-designed drawing. Listen to the advice of professional builders: the width of the flooring should not exceed one meter; product height - six meters; the gap between the racks is in the range from two to two and a half meters. The standard level for the location of jumpers for the initial flooring is about half a meter from the ground.

For the next one, mounting on a hill from 180 to 200 cm. And finally, for the third one, it is installed at a height of 360-400 cm.

2.1. Wooden scaffolding: how to make it yourself

Do-it-yourself scaffolding from boards involves the following materials:

• boards 4-5 cm thick (for flooring and lintels);
• boards (width - from 10 cm, thickness - 5 cm) or timber with a special section (10 * 10 cm). They will be needed for processing persistent braces and racks;
• edged board "30" is useful in the formation of railings, screeds and spacers;
• screws and nails. The former are relevant when disassembling and assembling high scaffolding, and the latter are at a break and for compact products.

Step #1 Four racks are cut along the height of the scaffolding. On a site cleared of debris and foreign objects, they are laid out parallel to each other.

Step no 2. Then we securely fix with horizontal jumpers those of the racks on which you plan to place the flooring.

Step no 3. As a result, we have two "ladder" frames. Next, we mount in a vertical position relative to each other. We strengthen the screeds (horizontal and diagonal).

Step no 4. We prepare a strong flooring from the bars. Then we securely mount it on horizontal jumpers.

Step no 5. The turn comes with direct manipulations with forests. They are connected on two side cuts-stops.

Step No 6. And only after that the railing and stairs are nailed. Ready!

2.2. Profile pipe products: detailed instructions

By its principle, this type of scaffolding is assembled in a similar way. However, consider some nuances. They consist in the use of adapters, with the help of which an increase in the levels of the product is achieved.

However, let's figure out what you need to buy to create one section:

1. Bolts with nuts and washers (in the amount of ten pieces). They are very easy to fasten the diagonal ties and then fix to the racks of the scaffold base.
2. Profile pipe. They need to take about eight segments. Material parameters: 25×25 mm or 35×35 mm. Provide an additional copy for the installation of railings. It will need one piece (up to two meters).
3. For thrust bearings, buy four plates. Their material: metal. Thickness: two to three millimeters. Other parameters: 10×10 cm.
4. For racks and jumpers, take eight segments: equally 1 and 1.5 meters, respectively.
5. Diagonal ties must be formed from four segments (the optimal length is about two meters) of a round pipe. It is best if its value of its parameter does not exceed two centimeters.

Now let's get to work

• The first thing to start with assembling scaffolding with your own hands from profile pipe, is: the connection of the structure rack to OSB sheet, which is the assembly shield. Clamps are ideal for this manipulation.
• Next, we securely attach the jumpers (horizontal) to the racks, and only then we fix the adapters (from parts of the pipes) to the upper ends of the racks (the optimum indent is five centimeters). We use a welding machine.
• After finished device(tandem of jumpers with racks) is previously detached from the assembly shield for the following manipulation: after changing the orientation (rotation by 90 degrees), it is returned to the structure: clamps are also useful for connecting to the shield.
• Do not forget about such a necessary moment during installation as correct handling thin-walled pipes (for diagonal stretch marks). For our purposes, we beat off their ends and middle with a hammer. Using a drill, we get spans for bolts.
• Very carefully (in the center) we screw the bolts into a pair of diagonal ties. Pre-measure the areas where the rack fixation points will be located.
• We join the racks with couplers with nuts and bolts.
• Now let's deal with the railings and racks separately. We make a few holes on them with a drill.
• Thrust bearings (plates) are fastened with pieces of pipes. To do this, we use a welding machine.
• On final stage the structure is installed in a strictly vertical position. But it is necessary to provide for thrust bearings. They are attached to the lower ends of the pipes.
• From the usual edged board we make high-quality and solid flooring, which is placed above the side lintels. Experts recommend using lumber called "magpie" for these purposes.

Pay attention to the secrets that everyone who decides to assemble scaffolding on their own should know about:

1. If you are faced with the task of increasing the scaffolding in length, then you need to obey this logic: we make holes in the existing sections (in the upper and lower parts). The bolts that will be located there will be the connecting link with the subsequent racks.
2. When you attach the ties, then follow the alternation: on the scaffolding, they are mounted on different sidewalls.
3. Not always, but overhaul or large-scale construction, you may find it necessary to add sections of the third tier (4.5 m). And then you can not do without a profile pipe of persistent cutting, which serves for the stability of scaffolding. Your action: create holes in the racks.
4. Metal corners (3 * 3 cm) will prevent the flooring from shifting. They are mounted on the area of ​​​​contact contact with the jumpers.

3. Universal dismantling scheme

This procedure has its own characteristics: the technology involves the dismantling of the structure from top to bottom in a sequence, reverse installation. However, do not forget that before the main manipulations it is necessary:

• inspect the scaffolding for the absence of any foreign objects: garbage, inventory, etc.;
• fence the site to avoid unforeseen situations;
• all exits to the balcony and window openings are tightly closed;
• make sure that the tools are in working order;
• a safety belt is required when the design long time has not been used and there is a possibility that defects or traces of rust may form.

All types of product are dismantled tier by tier, section by section. Special attention pay fasteners to the wall, which are disassembled according to a similar principle: remove the fastening hooks that are located above the manipulated tier. Masters advise when dismounting almost all scaffolding (except for the collar variety), the components of the tier should be removed and put on the ground.

So let's get started.

• First, take into account the strict sequence: fences - posts and fastening devices above the flooring of each tier - diagonal ties within the boundaries of this tier.
• Secondly, we move on to the flooring shield. It is not completely removed: one of the fragments will be useful for laying the tier under the one under consideration.
• Thirdly, staircases remove the railing, then the racks. And further - boards of platforms and stairs. And finally, the turn of the tier frame comes: the crossbars (transverse and longitudinal) are removed.
• The wall mounts are disassembled. And the holes from them are rubbed with a special compound.

Throughout the process, you can not do without ropes and blocks - reliable lifting devices. The elements received after dismantling must be inspected and packed in order to store or transport scaffolding.

4. Video: making scaffolding yourself

Having mastered the technology of mounting scaffolding, it's time to put into practice the knowledge gained. And if you seriously think about where, then the Stroyka ru portal will come to the rescue here too. In our catalog you can always find and order quality products from reliable suppliers.

Photo and video: www.google.ru.

If you decide to build a house, do-it-yourself scaffolding can be easily made. The basis of this design can be wood. Before starting work, it is important to know that the equipment will include support posts, lintels, decking, stairs, and spacers. The last components should be located both vertically and horizontally. It is worth preferring wooden scaffolding, it will be much easier to make them with your own hands than metal ones. However, such forests are not intended for significant loads. After the design, it will be possible to disassemble and use individual elements for another purpose. However, reassembly is also possible, but the scaffolding will no longer be strong.

Features of the assembly of wooden scaffolding

If you decide to assemble scaffolding with your own hands, then you will need to follow some rules. The design should be convenient to use, which is why a minimum distance of 2 m should be ensured between the racks, while the maximum limit is equivalent to 2.5 meters. The width of the flooring should not be less than 1 meter. When choosing a height, you need to be guided by a maximum limit of 6 meters. In order to make it convenient to work, you need to create a drawing.

Preparation of materials and tools

When scaffolding is made by hand, it is important to initial stage prepare the entire set of tools and materials. Thus, in this case, one cannot do without a square-section beam with a side of 100 mm. You will also need boards, you need to choose or purchase those that have a thickness of 30 millimeters. Nails act as fasteners, but a tape measure will allow you to measure. Well, if the master has it Circular Saw. When choosing wood, you need to pay attention to dry and fairly dense lumber, which is devoid of cracks. If raw wood is preferred, then it will significantly weight the structure. Among other things, after drying, the structure may be deformed. Due to the fact that the equipment is built only for a certain time, its elements do not need to be polished and treated with antiseptic compounds.

Frame work

If scaffolding will be made with your own hands, then at the initial stage you need to deal with the frame, while four pieces of timber will be used, which must be cut to the height of the scaffolding and laid on an even, if possible, base. The next step will be manipulation, in which two beams should be used, each of which has a length of four meters. Two more elements should have a length of 3.6 meters. These elements should be nailed with inside support beams. Smaller blanks are reinforced along the top edge, while larger ones are installed along the bottom. As a result, you should get trapezoids, which are additionally fixed with diagonal braces.

Frame installation

If do-it-yourself scaffolding is made, then the next step will be to lift the frames. They need to be installed vertically and temporarily fixed with sidewalls. The step between the lower edges of the racks should be equivalent to 1.15 meters. The distance between the top edges should be 1 meter. It is important to analyze how correctly the side parts are located in relation to the horizontal surface. If everything turned out to be correct, then the frame can be knocked down with nails. Finished scaffolding should take the form of a pyramid, and its side parts should be located strictly horizontally and made of timber.

Flooring installation

If you decide to make scaffolding with your own hands from wood, you need to attach the boards that make up the flooring to the upper bars that are located across. It is better to fix them along the width of the frame. Elements should be laid closely, leaving no gaps at the joints. In the side parts of the frame, additional elements located across should be fixed, which will be convenient to use as a ladder.

An alternative option for making scaffolding

Do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood can be made according to different technologies. You can use the one that is developed by yourself. For work, lumber of different sections and sizes should be prepared. For example, horizontal flooring should be made of more massive boards, their thickness should be equal to 50 millimeters. But the stiffeners can be made from boards, the thickness of which varies from 25 millimeters. Railing rails may have given parameter from 20 millimeters and above. Some experts still recommend treating wood with compounds against rotting and mold. This is true if you have planned not only the construction of a house, but also other structures on the site. If you are thinking about how to make scaffolding with your own hands, then you can use the recommendations of a specialist. They advise to perform the end sides of the structure at a converging angle, which should increase the stability of the scaffolding. Among other things, these elements will not interfere with the repair work.

Conclusion

Bearing supports, which will be based on a beam with a section of 10x10 cm, it is desirable to make them reinforced, since elements of a smaller section reduce the strength of such a structure. When doing scaffolding with your own hands, it is recommended to look at photos of such structures in advance. The minimum allowable width is 50 centimeters. While the length can reach four meters. If the height recommended above is exceeded, there is a risk of the structure tipping over. If possible, it is recommended to stock up on electric tools, otherwise the work will take a long time. When attaching the side parts to the support beams, self-tapping screws can be used. However, some masters do not advise doing this. If scaffolding is made from boards with their own hands, then safety is the most important requirement. This is due to the fact that such structures can have a rather impressive height, a fall from them can cause serious injury. That is why you should not save on lumber, you should only purchase high-quality and well-dried wood. Only if these rules are observed, it will be possible to achieve an excellent result, which implies the strength and reliability of scaffolding. Such structures can be operated even for more than one year, despite the fact that they will be subjected to negative external influences.

If you have a need to perform work on the facade, you need to do without scaffolding.

They are temporary structures metal constructions, which are used in construction, finishing and restoration work on buildings and structures. The advantages of these structures are that their installation and dismantling is carried out directly on construction sites. If necessary, the structure can be easily moved along the wall. In addition, building scaffolds are a convenient structure for temporary use, being on which you can perform work related to the facade: insulation, finishing, painting. Can be performed small works for the restoration of wooden window frames, make slopes of window openings.

Not only professional builders, but also many ordinary summer residents, as well as owners of private houses and country cottages, need to purchase scaffolding with removable decking (scaffolding) - after all, when will it be necessary to tint the roof gables or update facade finishing at home, you may need not just a ladder or stepladder, but something more serious.

Scaffolding on "envelopes" in Lately have become quite a popular option that you can make yourself. As you can see in the photos below, such building scaffolds have a wide range of applications, from production brickwork before finishing works. Due to the simplicity and low cost of their design, it is easy to organize paving at the desired height and perform painting, whitewashing, surface restoration, window cleaning, installation of slopes and trim, etc.

Why is this option popular among builders?

The main advantage is that the scaffolding can be made independently. Wherein building material not much is spent. Well, plus everything: simplicity and ease of assembly / disassembly of the structure. After completing the work, they disassemble and fold until better times in a secluded corner of the barn.

What are scaffolding with "envelopes" made of?

"Envelope" is a scaffolding, which is a support platform in the form of a triangle. Supports are made from various lumber that is on the construction site, for example, edged boards. The main thing is that the board is strong, with a minimum section of 50x50 mm. (see fig. 1).

Rice. 1, Supporting platform - "envelope". 1 - L-shaped bracket; 2 - jibs.

Then, it is necessary to build L-shaped brackets - the boards are knocked down, after which they are sheathed on the sides with wooden slats.

The dimensions of the site must be constructed based on the safe operation of the structure. On the support platform, it is not large in size, it is rather inconvenient to work, and besides, you will often have to move it. Having made scaffolds of a large area, you can expose yourself to a traumatic situation, there is a possibility of envelopes tearing off the wall. Taking this into account, the size of the platform must be calculated in this way: the size of a human leg is on average 350-400 mm, taking this size of the horizontal platforms of the scaffold, a person can become a full foot, while not being afraid to fall from a height.

Now that the platform is ready, the support platform is fixed, it remains to set it to the desired height so that you can reach the required level. You will also need a couple of supports, it is quite possible to use a 150x50 mm edged board. Before installing them, the supports must be made sharp at the base so that they rest on the ground, and the upper ends along the contour of the "envelope" cornerslightly beveled for a tight fit, as shown in Figure 2.

Rice. 2 Installation of scaffolds: 1 - prop-slightly; 2 - "envelope"; 3 - flooring boards; 4 - supporting surface.

Then, after the flooring from the "envelopes" is raised to the required height, it must be fixed. The vertical part of the L-bracket should be nailed to the wall with ordinary long nails. It is advisable not to hammer the nails all the way, otherwise it will be difficult to pull them out during dismantling.

Now you can lift and install the flooring itself. The boards are laid at the desired height and nailed to the horizontal shelf of the brackets. Nails in these places can be driven completely into the boards, this will make the structure more durable.

Advice: to make it easier to get the nails, they can be driven into the boards through thin spacer rails; when dismantled, they are simply split with a nail puller.

!Attention Be careful when working at height. Follow the safety precautions for. Remember that when making your own construction scaffolding, it is necessary to check the strength of each of the structural nodes.

In this article, you will learn how to collect wooden scaffolding with your own hands - prepared for you step-by-step instruction. The article will talk about the requirements for individual elements and designs in general. You will also learn about accessories for working at heights.

Scaffolding is a temporary or permanent system of supports and ladders, which serves for lifting and working at height. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since working at a height of more than 1.5 m is traumatic.

Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements apply to scaffolding:

1. Reliability. The system of elements must withstand the weight of workers and material in motion with a margin.
2. Manufacturability. It implies the convenience of assembly / disassembly of the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or an entry-level specialist.
3. Thrift. The design must contain an acceptable minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
4. Utility. For inventory scaffolding - the ability to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wood - the ability to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.

Inventory scaffolding is a professional and expensive product. It is unprofitable to purchase them for home use, only rent is possible with a large amount of work (for example, with the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction, it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the building structure.

Standard wood scaffolding

The design of these scaffolds came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming a frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have been improved. They deserve special attention.

Basic elements of wooden scaffolding

1 - racks; 2 - transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes

Racks. Vertical supports from edged boards good quality. They perceive the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (soil). Rack Requirements:

1. Edged board of the 1st grade of any breed.
2. Board thickness - not less than 30 mm, width - not less than 100 mm.
3. Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board must not be broken, cracked, rotten, crooked, of variable section, with excessive wane or holes.
4. The board must not be infested with insects.

Particular attention must be paid to the vertical splicing of the racks. Elements should be butt-jointed, not "overlap" and clamped on both sides.

Crossbars. They take the load from the flooring and transfer it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to the requirements for racks. One additional requirement: the use of spliced ​​cross members without additional support is unacceptable.

Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross bars. It can be made of edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - guides from the board, on top sheet material. Continuous flooring and run-up is allowed.

Braces. Diagonal ties connecting racks different rows. It is allowed to use rails, slabs. It is advisable to install braces of maximum length in order to tie the largest number racks.

Slopes. Diagonal stops that support the structure to avoid deflection from the wall. Usually a 25 mm board is used.

Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding

There is a set general rules, observing which you can collect a reliable and safe design. These rules are derived from the requirements of safety and the experience of high-altitude masters:

1. The foundation must be solid. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, make wooden platforms to support the racks.
2. The width of the passage between the racks is at least 500 mm.
3. For each node - at least 3 attachment points. With multi-point mounting - a step of 50-70 mm in a checkerboard pattern.
4. Use powerful self-tapping screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them from the back side.
5. Always install railings on the inside of the rack.
6. Apply frontal board(fence at the flooring).
7. Racks at the interface must be trimmed.
8. The spacing of the posts is from 1 to 2 m, the minimum thickness of the flooring is 25 mm.

Scaffold assembly

For creating wooden structure scaffolding will need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.

Operating procedure:

1. The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal step (1.5 m) and get the number of racks.
2. We collect the "envelope" - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them in this place with a cross bar.

Attention! The angle between the upright and the cross member must be 90°. Skews can deform the frame under load.

1. We sew the frame with a diagonal.
2. We prepare required amount"envelopes".
3. Install two "envelopes" vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a diagonal at the maximum height so that they stand without support.
4. Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the floorboard so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
5. Place the deck board on the cross members and fix it. Reinforce bracing.
6. Fix the flooring on top with self-tapping screws or nails.
7. Install the rest of the "envelopes" and flooring in the same way.

Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice decking between supports! The joint of boards or flooring sheets must fall on the crossbar!

1. Install handrail and front board.
2. If possible, tie the structure to the wall.
3. If the height is more than 2 tiers and you need to build up the racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, you need to tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then connect the edge of this board with the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.

Scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - the dismantling of the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly must be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.

Devices for wooden scaffolding

Steel Crossbar - Bracket

This element greatly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device must correspond to the cross section of the board.

triangular bracket

Such a bracket can be wooden or steel. Allows the scaffold to be attached directly to the wall. For a flooring device based on it, several boards for a ladder are enough. But at the same time, for rearrangement, you have to dismantle it. Mounting something from the bottom up is not possible. Most dangerous view high-rise scaffolds. When working, special skill and caution are required.

Bricklayer Express Scaffolding

They are created from pallets on which bricks were brought. For flooring, as a rule, a rafter board is used. It does not require sawing the material, while they are quite reliable, if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.

Bricklayer scaffolding on video

Whatever type of scaffolding or scaffolding you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time for strengthening can turn into unpleasant, and sometimes serious consequences.