Do-it-yourself four-pitched roof of the house drawings. Rafter system hipped roof. Types of hipped roofs

A hip roof is a type of four-pitched roof, in which two slopes are trapezoidal in shape, and the other two (end) are triangular (having the same name as “hips”). If the end slopes occupy the entire area from the ridge to the eaves - this is a hip roof, if they do not reach the cornice - a half-hip roof.

The roof of the house performs a dual function - on the one hand, it is entrusted with protecting the building from external influences, and on the other hand, it is designed to decorate the building and give it individuality.

Historically, in Russia, preference was given to simpler one-, gable roofs, Europeans prefer a hipped or hipped roof, which has advantages and disadvantages under certain conditions.

Hip roof - advantages and disadvantages

Pros:

great structural rigidity. It is achieved due to the corner ribs connecting near the ridge support beam;

the possibility of arranging more protruding overhangs, which provides additional protection house walls;

aesthetic appeal.

Minuses:

complexity of calculation and installation;
higher cost of project implementation;
reduction in the area of the attic space (in particular, at the place of installation of diagonal supports);
the impossibility of building an attic;
natural light is possible only through the installation of windows in the roofing pie.

Since the shortcomings are not critical, the hip-type four-pitched roof is actively practiced in the modern construction of private houses.

Varieties (types and types) of a hip roof

Studying the device of the truss system hip roof, it should be noted that within this species, there are several varieties of structures. In turn, this makes adjustments to the overall process of erecting the frame of the truss system.

Classic hip roof

Differs in the support of the diagonal ribs on the support beam of the ridge and the location of the overhangs at the same height. The individual elements of the hip roof correspond to the triangle (gables) and the trapezium (slopes).

Hipped hip roof

Distinguished by the absence of a ridge support beam. This leads to the fact that all diagonal ribs converge at a single point, and ordinary short rafters already adjoin them. Such a roof is preferred in the presence of a square box at home. But the formation of a reliable ridge knot is quite complicated.

Half hip roof

It is distinguished by the presence of vertical gables in which windows can be installed. The picture shows the difference between two varieties of half-hip roofs (Dutch and Danish).

Broken hip roof or mansard hipped roof

The most difficult in terms of construction is the design of the hip roof truss system, since in this case, all roof slopes have different area and diverge at different angles. A broken (mansard) roof allows you to more rationally organize the internal under-roof space and, in addition to additional living space, give the house a spectacular appearance.

hip roof construction

Regardless of the type of roof, all types have the same elements of the hip roof truss system:

ridge support beam or ridge beam - used for a classic hip roof, it acts as a supporting element to which diagonal rafters are attached;

diagonal rafter (side, edge, slanting or corner rafter) - a longer rafter leg that is attached to the end of the ridge beam at an acute angle, forming one of the sides of the triangle;

central rafter - boards of the same length, which adjoin the ridge beam and form the edges of the trapezoidal roof slope. Between them are intermediate rafters;

intermediate or ordinary rafter - forms a plane of a trapezoidal slope, the distance between them determines the run of the truss system;

sprig or short rafter - a structural element that is attached to a diagonal rafter, forming a triangular overhang and the corner parts of the trapezium.

hip roof calculation

The calculation of the hip roof truss system is carried out taking into account the following prerequisites:

wind load in the region. The higher it is, the more gentle the slope should be, and the stronger the whole structure. To level out strong winds, the central and diagonal rafters are made thicker;

the amount of precipitation. An inverse relationship is observed. The higher the amount of precipitation, the steeper the slope should be so that snow and rain do not create pressure on the rafter system;

type of roofing material. Each type of roofing material puts forward its own requirements for the crate, and also has a certain weight. These factors must be taken into account at the design stage;

the need for roof insulation. In this case, the installation step of the rafters is calculated taking into account the width of the heat-insulating material. In addition, the distance between the rafters depends on the type and section of wood.

The calculation of the roofing material is carried out according to the formulas, taking into account the angle of the roof. Optimal roof slope for roofing materials different types shown in the table:

The slope of the slope angle determines the laying of the rafters. In turn, the laying of the intermediate rafter is calculated as follows:

first on the top harness end wall an axial line is applied;
then half the thickness of the ridge beam is calculated, and the placement line of the first of the central intermediate rafters is applied;
then the end of the measuring rail and the placement line of the central intermediate rafter marked above are combined;
a line of the inner contour of the side wall is applied to the opposite end of the measuring rail;
the resulting point is the laying of the intermediate rafter.

The ratio between the length of the rafters and their laying is calculated using a correction factor, the value of which depends on the angle of inclination of the roof slope. The length of the rafter leg is determined by multiplying the laying by the coefficient.

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Formulas for calculating the hip roof

Skate height
Ridge bar length	The length of the house minus its width
The length of the central rafters (trapezoid)		Pythagorean theorem
Length of ordinary rafters	Calculated similarly to the length of the central rafters
Rafter extension to form frame overhang
Tilt angle ordinary rafters
Diagonal length hip rafters
Narozhniki (short rafters)	First short rafter
	Second short rafter
Square hip roof

How to calculate the area of a hip roof?

To know how much to buy roofing material, you need to know the total area of \u200b\u200bthe roof.

To do this, you need to break the entire roof into constituent simple geometric shapes and make a calculation for each of them.

The calculation of the hip roof area allows you to determine in advance not only the cost of purchasing roofing materials and installation, but also determine the requirements for materials, as well as the need for arrangement and the exact configuration of the crate.

Drawing of the hip roof truss system

The result of the development of the project and calculations will be a diagram-drawing of the hip roof truss system. There are no similar drawings ready for use without taking into account the features of a particular structure and the place of its construction.

The development of a preliminary scheme can be done independently (a simple sketch will determine the direction of the project). But, it is better to entrust the drawing to specialists or use special programs for calculation. It should be remembered that the more complex the roof structure, the more accurately it is necessary to calculate the truss system: configuration and materials. This will also affect the cost and duration of installation work.

The hip roof drawing should include an indication of the purpose of the material, its installation location and method of attachment. The key nodes of the hip roof truss system, for example, the adjoining of diagonal supports to the ridge beam or the installation of rafter legs on the Mauerlat, it is advisable to put them in a separate drawing and describe them in more detail.

Drawing of a hip roof (layered rafters with an emphasis on two runs)

Drawing of a hip roof truss system with a bay window

The presence of a schematic drawing will be a good help in the manufacture of blanks and subsequent installation of the roof.

Tools for building a hip roof

The design of the roof and the methods of arranging the nodes determine the set of tools that should be prepared before starting work.

To work with wood, it is useful: a level, a hacksaw, a hammer, a tape measure, a marking cord, a stapler.

To work with metal structures you will need an electric drill, a riveter, cutting shears.

Tool and Consumables must be prepared in advance, because complex installation of the hip roof truss system involves a large number of cuts and installation of nails.

To simplify measurements and be able to make all parts of the same size, the masters advise replacing the tape measure with a measuring rod. The measuring rail is made of plywood 50 mm wide, on which the main dimensions are applied.

hip roof material

The species and type of wood direct influence on the durability and reliability of the roof structure. Masters are advised to give preference to lumber or pine lumber. All blanks require pre-treatment with flame retardants and antiseptics.

In addition to wood, you will need metal mounts, nails, self-tapping screws, anchor bolts.

Note. Forming a hip truss system on wooden house, which can shrink, the craftsmen advise using floating fasteners to connect the rafters to the Mauerlat. This method compensates for the movement of the crowns during the natural shrinkage of a house made of timber or logs.

Hip roof truss system - installation technology

Do-it-yourself truss system devices step by step:

1. Preparation of blanks (rafters)

This is the most difficult and time-consuming part of the construction, because. associated with:

the need to ensure a given angle of inclination of the rafter legs;
different lengths of sprigs (short rafters);
the presence of diagonal rafters (slanting), which are given special attention. Due to the length, the rafters carry a greater load than the main rafters, and therefore require the use of higher quality lumber with a large section. In addition, often the length of the diagonal rafters exceeds the standard length of the boards.

In order not to buy different lumber, in practice the splicing (pairing) method is used edged board to get the given length.

Advantages of rafter splicing technology:

obtaining continuous beams of a given length;
increasing the strength of the diagonal rafters of the hip roof due to the double section;
simplification of the calculation and purchase of material (unification of dimensions: length and section);
the possibility of using boards designed to form ordinary rafters.

2. Mauerlat mount

Mauerlat for a hip roof is a large-section wooden beam (100x100 or 100x150 mm) mounted around the perimeter of the walls. For Mauerlat, wood of the first grade is used.

The peculiarity of laying the mauerlat is that the beam is connected along the length only with an overlap, but not butt, using a variety of connection points with the base of the wall. The connecting nodes are additionally reinforced with metal brackets.

Since the purpose of the Mauerlat is to serve as a support for the rafter legs, it needs to be protected from moisture. For this purpose, a hydrobarrier is laid between the wall and the beam (for example, roofing material is used).

Note. Under the Mauerlat brick houses(or from aerated concrete, foam concrete, wood concrete) a reinforced concrete belt is poured with pre-installed studs for mounting the beam. The hairpin has a diameter of 10 mm or more and should protrude beyond the Mauerlat plane by 20-30 mm. The installation step of the studs is 1000-1200 mm.

3. Installation of the run

A run is a beam installed parallel to the sides of the Mauerlat. The run serves as the basis for the installation of additional supports under the rafter legs. The run device is not a mandatory stage of work and is performed only for hip roofs of a large area or with a configuration of increased complexity. The location of the run is shown in the diagram.

It should be noted that the point of maximum load will vary depending on the location - on the ridge of the hip or on the edge of the valley.

Note. The hip hip roof is mounted without support, and a complex knot is formed at the junction of the diagonal rafters.

4. Installation of support legs

Racks perform the function of support when installing a ridge beam ( Orange color on the picture).

5. Installation of the ridge beam

Installation of the hip roof ridge is accompanied by accurate measurements. Since the entire roof structure will rest on the ridge, the correctness of its installation is checked by height and level.

6. Fastening rafter legs

Regarding the sequence of work at this stage, the opinions of the masters differ. This makes it possible to single out two areas for work:

the central rafters are mounted, and then the diagonal ones. This workflow is simpler;
diagonal rafters are mounted, and then the rest.

During installation, the lower part of the rafter leg rests on the Mauerlat.

The support of the rafters on the hip roof is shown in the diagram. The first option (with a notch) is simpler, but the second (with a support bar) is preferable, because. in this case, the fastening does not weaken the rafter.

The formation of a node on a ridge beam is possible in different ways.

Top mounting options for diagonal rafters are shown in the diagram.

Advice. For rigidity, it is advisable to reinforce all nodes with metal elements (brackets, plates, corners).

Since the diagonal rafters have a significant load, they can be strengthened using such means as:

rack installation. Mounted on the ceiling vertically;
brace installation. Mounted at an angle. The angle of inclination is not critical. The ability of the strut to reinforce the diagonal rafter is important;
sprengel. In fact, this is a T-shaped short beam, deployed 180o. It is used on long spans and is installed so that its base is oriented perpendicular to the diagonal rafter.

7. Installation of ordinary rafters

Privates are installed similarly to the installation of the central rafters, which form the edges of the trapezoid. Their lower part rests and is attached to the Mauerlat, and the upper part rests against the ridge beam. It is important to observe the same distance between ordinary rafters.

8. Installation of sprockets (short rafters)

Narozhniki are made only from solid lumber. At the junction of the sprig to the long rafter, cuts are made or support beams are installed. The installation site is additionally reinforced with metal elements.

Note. The installation of the hip roof splices is possible in a run-up to simplify installation.

In any case, sprigs are installed after the formation of the power frame of the roof. Their installation ends with the installation of the hip roof truss system.

Do-it-yourself hip roof step by step - video

The program shows the installation process of the truss system of a gable hip roof with a central bay window along a short wall.

After the rafter system is ready, you can proceed with the installation of the roofing, the specifics of the fastening of which determines the need for mounting the crate on the rafter legs.

Installation of a hip roof truss system is a lengthy process that requires attention to every stage of the work - from the calculation and selection of material, to the installation of parts and strengthening of attachment points. But, with the correct implementation of all stages, the result will be a beautiful and reliable roof for a private house.

Building a frame for a roof with four slopes is a difficult process with characteristic technological features. During the construction, their own structural components are used, the sequence of work is different. But the result will amaze with its spectacular shape and durability when repelling atmospheric attacks. AND House master can be proud of personal achievements in the field of a roofer.

However, before deciding on a device of a similar design, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the algorithm according to which the truss system of a hipped roof is being built and with the specifics of its device.

The hipped roof class combines two types of structures that resemble a square and rectangular envelope in plan. The first variety is called tent, the second - hip. Against the background of their pitched counterparts, they are distinguished by the absence of gables, called tongs in roofing. In the construction of both variants of four-pitched structures, layered and hanging rafters are used, the installation of which is carried out in accordance with standard technologies for the construction of pitched truss systems.

Characteristic differences within the four-slope class:

At the hipped roof, all four slopes are in the form of isosceles triangles, the tops of which converge at one highest point. There is no ridge as such in the tent construction; its function is performed by the central support in layered systems or the top of the hanging truss.
At the hip roof, a pair of main slopes has a trapezoidal configuration, and the second pair is triangular. The hip design differs from the tented counterpart in the obligatory presence of a ridge, to which the trapezoid adjoins the upper bases. Triangular slopes, they are also hips, adjoin the ridge top, and their sides are docked with the inclined sides of the trapezoid.

Based on the configuration of the roofs in the plan, it is clear that it is customary to erect tent structures over square buildings, and hip structures over rectangular houses. Both soft and soft are suitable as a coating. The characteristic square or rectangular shape is repeated by the drawings of the hipped roof truss system with a clearly marked arrangement of elements in the plan and vertical projections of the slopes.

Often, hip and hip systems are used together in the construction of one object or effectively complement gable, single-pitched, broken and other roofs.

Constructions with four slopes can be based directly on the upper crown wooden house or on the Mauerlat, which serves as the upper strapping of brick or concrete walls. If you can find upper and lower supports for each rafter, the roof frame is constructed using layered technology.

Installing rafter legs is easier and more affordable for the inexperienced home roofer who needs to consider that:

With a rigid fastening of the upper and lower heels of the rafters with metal corners or with the help of a wooden support plate, a reinforced Mauerlat fastening will be required, because the spacer will be transferred to it.
With a rigid fixation of the upper heel and a hinged fastening of the bottom of the rafter, it is not necessary to strengthen the fastening of the Mauerlate, because. when the load on the roof is exceeded, the hinged mount, for example, on sliders, will allow the rafter to move slightly without creating pressure on the Mauerlat.
With a hinged fastening of the top of the rafters and a rigid fixation of the bottom, the spacer and pressure on the Mauerlat are also excluded.

The issues of fastening the Mauerlat and the method of installing the rafter legs, which are closely related to it, according to the rules, are resolved at the design stage of the house. If the building does not have an internal load-bearing wall or it is not possible to build reliable supports under the central part of the roof, nothing will work except for the hanging assembly scheme of the truss system. True, in most cases, a layered method of construction is used, for the implementation of which it is necessary to foresee the bearing support inside the building in advance.

In the construction of truss systems for tent and hip hipped roofs, specific structural elements are used, these are:

Diagonal rafter legs, forming the ridge connections of the slopes. In hip structures, diagonals, they are also rafters, connect the consoles of the ridge run to the corners of the roof. In tent systems, slanted legs connect the top to the corners.
Narozhniki, or truss semi-legs, installed perpendicular to the cornices. They rely on diagonal rafters, are located parallel to each other, therefore they differ in different lengths. Narozhniki form the planes of tent and hip slopes.

Diagonal rafters and joists are also used for the construction of valleys, only then concave roof corners are arranged, and not convex like hip ones.

The whole complexity of building frames for roofs with four slopes lies in the installation of diagonal rafters, which determine the result of the formation of the structure. In addition, the slopes are required to steadfastly hold a load one and a half times greater than ordinary truss legs of pitched roofs. Because they work part-time as a hobby, i.e. support for the upper heel of the sprigs.

If you briefly describe the procedure for building a layered frame for a hipped roof, then you can meet the following steps:

Mauerlat device on brick or concrete walls. The process of installing a Mauerlat on walls made of logs or timber can be abolished, because. it can be successfully replaced by the upper crown.
Installation of a central support for a hipped structure or a supporting frame for the main part of a hip roof.
Installation of ordinary layered rafters: a pair for a hipped roof and a row defined by the design solution for a hip structure.
Installation of diagonal rafter legs connecting the corners of the systems with the top of the support or the extreme points of the ridge.
Production by size and fastening of sprigs.

In the case of using a hanging frame scheme, the start of the construction of a tent frame will be the installation of a triangular roof truss in the center. The installation of a series of truss trusses will be the beginning of the installation of a four-pitched hip truss system.

Construction of a hip truss system

Let's take a look at one of the common examples of a hip roof device with layered rafter legs. They will have to rely on floor beams laid on top of the Mauerlat. Rigid fastening with a notch will only be used to fix the top of the rafter legs on the ridge run, so there is no need to strengthen the Mauerlat fasteners. The dimensions of the box of the house shown in the example are 8.4 × 10.8 m. The actual dimensions of the roof in the plan will increase on each side by the amount of the cornice overhang, by 40-50 cm.

Mauerlat base device

Mauerlat is a purely individual element, the method of its installation depends on the material of the walls and architectural features the buildings. The method of laying the Mauerlat is planned according to the rules during the design period, because for reliable fixation of the Mauerlat it is recommended:

Lightweight foam concrete, gas silicate and similar walls should be equipped with a reinforced reinforced concrete belt, poured along the perimeter, with anchors installed during the pouring period for attaching the Mauerlat.
Brick walls are edged with a side in one or two bricks along the outer edge so that along inner edge a ledge was formed for laying a wooden frame. During masonry, wooden plugs are laid between the bricks for attaching the mauerlat with brackets to the wall.

A Mauerlat is made from a bar measuring 150 × 150 or 100 × 150 mm. If the operation of the under-roof space is supposed, it is advisable to take the bars thicker. The timber is connected into a single frame with oblique cuts. Then the joints are reinforced with self-tapping screws, ordinary nails or capercaillie, and the corners are reinforced with brackets.

On top of the Mauerlat aligned to the horizon, constructed in the best way for a particular building, floor beams are laid. A bar with a section of 100 × 200 mm is used. First of all, a beam is laid, passing exactly along the central axis of the building. In the example, the length of the beam for the construction of solid beams is not enough, because they are assembled from two beams. The docking point should be located above a reliable support. In the example, the support is an internal load-bearing wall.

The step between the floor beams is 60 cm. If the equipped box does not have ideal parameters, as it happens in most situations, the distance between the beams can be slightly changed. Such an adjustment allows you to slightly "make up" the flaws in the construction. Between the extreme beams on both sides and the walls of the house there should be a gap of 90 cm wide, necessary for the installation of extensions.

Because floor beams can independently form only two cornice overhangs, short half-beams of floor - extension are attached to their ends. They are first installed only in the area of \u200b\u200bthe main part of the hip roof, exactly where the rafter legs are to be mounted. They are nailed to the mauerlat with nails, fastened to the beam with screws, large-caliber nails, dowels, reinforce the fasteners with corners.

The construction of the ridge

The central part of the hip roof is an ordinary gable structure. The rafter system for her is arranged according to the rules that dictate. In the example, there are some deviations from the classical interpretation of the pitched principle: the bed is not used, on which, traditionally, supports for the ridge run are installed. The work of the bed will have to be performed by the central floor beam.

In order to build the ridge part of the hip roof truss system, you need:

Build a support frame for the rafter legs, the top of which will rest on the ridge run. The run will be based on three supports, the central of which is installed directly on the central floor beam. To install the two extreme supports, first two transverse bars are laid, overlapping at least five floor beams. Stability is enhanced with two struts. For the manufacture of horizontal and vertical parts of the support frame, a bar with a section of 100 × 150 mm was used, the struts were made from a board of 50 × 150 mm.
Make rafter legs, for which you must first make a template. A board of suitable dimensions is applied to the installation site, lines of future cuts are drawn on it. She will be the template for the in-line production of rafters.
Install the rafter legs, resting them with a notch on the ridge run, and with the lower heel on the take-out located opposite.

If the floor beams were laid across the box, then the rafters of the main part of the roof would rest on the floor beams, which is much more reliable. However, in the example, they rely on the removal, therefore, additional mini-supports must be arranged under them. These supports should be positioned so that the load from them and the rafters located above is transferred to the walls.

Then three rows of extensions are mounted on each of the four sides. For the convenience of implementing further actions, the contour of the roof is drawn up with a cornice board. It must be nailed to the floor beams and extensions strictly horizontally.

Installation of corner offsets

In the space limited by the cornice board, there were corner sections left unfilled with details of the truss system. Here you will need corner offsets, for the installation of which is carried out as follows:

In order to indicate the direction of installation, we pull the cord. We stretch from the point of conditional intersection of the extreme support of the frame with the floor beam to the corner.
From above, along the lace, we apply a bar to its place. Holding the bar, from below we outline the lines of saw cuts at the point where the bar intersects the floor beam and corner connection cornice boards.
We attach the finished takeaway with sawn off excess to the Mauerlat and to the floor beam with corners.

The remaining three corner extensions are manufactured and mounted in the same way.

Installation of diagonal rafters

Diagonal, they are also oblique, rafter legs are made of two boards sewn together with a cross section equal to the size of ordinary rafters. In the example, one of the boards will be slightly higher than the second due to the difference in the angles of the hips and trapezoidal slopes.

The sequence of works for the manufacture and installation of the braids:

From the highest point of the ridge, we stretch the lace to the corners and to the central point of the slope. These are auxiliary lines along which we will mark the upcoming cuts.
With a carpenter's goniometer - we measure the angle between the lace and the upper side of the angular offset with a small one. This determines the angle of the lower cut. Suppose it is equal to α. The angle of the upper cut is calculated by the formula β = 90º - α.
At an angle β, we cut down one edge of an arbitrary trimming of the board. We apply it to the place of the upper attachment, aligning the edge of this blank with the cord. We outline the excess that interferes with a tight installation. You need to cut again along the marked lines.
At an angle α, we saw off the lower heel on another piece of board.
We make the first half of the diagonal rafter using the patterns of the upper and lower support. If a solid board is not enough in length, two pieces can be spliced. You can splice them with a meter-long piece of an inch planted on self-tapping screws; it should be placed on the outside of the oblique leg being constructed. We install the finished first part.
We do the second part of the rafter in the same way, but we take into account that it should be slightly lower than its first half. The area where the boards are connected into one element should not coincide with the area where the boards are joined in the first half of the sloping.
We sew two boards with nails in a run-up with a step of 40-50 cm.
On a lace stretched to the center of the slope, we draw a line along which it will be necessary to adjust the cut to join it with the adjacent rafter.

Following the described algorithm, it is necessary to install three more diagonal legs. Under each of them, supports should be installed at the point of attachment of the corner offsets to the beams. If the span is more than 7.5 m, another support is installed diagonally closer to the ridge.

Manufacturing and installation of hip rafters

The lace between the top of the skate and the center of the slope is already stretched. It served as an axis for outlining the cuts, and now it is necessary to measure the angle γ along it and calculate the angle δ = 90º - γ. Without deviating from the proven path, we prepare templates for the upper and lower support. We apply the upper trim to the place intended for it and mark the cut lines on it for a tight fit between the diagonal rafters. According to the blanks, we make the central leg of the hip and fix it where it is supposed to.

In the space between the corner outriggers and the cornice board, we install short extensions to stiffen the structure and to ensure a strong fixation of the shortest, shortest outriggers. Next, you should start making templates for the sparrows themselves:

We cut the board cut at an angle δ and attach it to the place of attachment to the diagonal rafter.
In fact, we outline the surplus that needs to be cut down again. The resulting template is used in the manufacture of all sprigs, for example, the right side of the hip. For the left side, the upper template will be filed from the opposite side.
As a template for the lower heel of the sprigs, we use a piece of board sawn off at an angle γ. If all the previous steps were performed correctly, then this template is used to make the lower attachment points for all other sprigs.

In accordance with the actual length and "indications" of the templates, the sprigs are made, which are necessary for the formation of the hip planes and the parts of the main slopes that are not filled with ordinary rafter legs. They are installed so that the upper attachment points of the sprigs to the diagonal rafters are located in a run, i.e. the upper connecting nodes of adjacent slopes should not converge in one place. The sprigs are attached to the sloping rafter leg with corners, to floor beams and extensions in the way that is more reasonable and convenient: corners or metal gear plates.

The hipped roof technology is based on already familiar hip principles. True, there is no ridge part of the truss system in their design. The construction begins with the installation of a central support, to which the sloping rafters are attached, and then the slats. If hanging technology is used in the construction of the roof with an envelope, then the finished truss truss is installed first.

We invite you to take advantage of our free online calculator for calculating building materials when installing a hip roof - and follow the instructions.

Helpful Video Instructions

Briefly with the sequence and rules for installing the truss system of a hipped roof of hip and hip categories, the video will acquaint you:

Having familiarized yourself with the specifics of the device and having mastered the intricacies of installing roofs with four slopes, you can safely proceed to the implementation of plans for its construction.

The laboriousness of work in the construction of a hipped roof is not much higher than a conventional gable roof, but this does not mean that a hipped roof is built with your own hands as simply as a regular one, with two symmetrical slopes. The main difficulty is that a pitched roof requires very precise engineering and knowledge of technology, especially if you do not have good practice in building this kind of roof.

Why is a house with a four-pitched roof better than a two-pitched version

Why is an ordinary gable roof arranged mainly on simple outbuildings, and for residential premises a four-slope roof is chosen:

The appearance of the four-pitched roof option looks much prettier and sleeker than the double structure;
Even simple hipped roof much better resists the blows of the elements due to smoother contours and aerodynamics. Even in the strongest wind, the frame rafters remain almost evenly loaded, due to the correct balancing of the diagonal rafters;
Two additional slopes better shed water, dry under the influence of the wind and thereby protect the roof of the house from leaking, as is the case with straight gables. Thus, for a hipped roof, significantly higher thermal insulation and frost resistance are achieved.

Important! The roof structure in four slopes, in contrast to the "kopeck piece", has a high degree of adaptation.

For a climate with a lot of precipitation, the Danish version with steep main slopes and two hips is perfect; for a steppe zone with strong winds, a low tent frame with large overhangs and an average angle of inclination.

It will be most convenient to use a hipped roof in houses where the attic space is not allocated as a residential area, but is used in economic purposes. Due to the appearance of two additional slopes, the space and usable area of the attic is reduced by about 25%. But if desired and of sufficient size attic room instead of an attic, you can equip small room, even with windows and a balcony, as in the photo.

But in this case, instead of a simple system of vertical posts on which the ridge run rests, in the construction of a hipped roof, you will need to install additional horizontal beams - crossbars, which will play the role of a ceiling for the attic room.

How to make a pitched roof

First of all, it is worth figuring out how a 4-pitched roof differs in detail from a double-pitched option.

The main difference between a 4-slope truss system and a double symmetrical roof

Differences in design will be most evident in the diagram with a simple rectangular version of the hipped roof shown in the photo:

Important! Most of the elements of the additional slopes require a very careful fit, so often the diagonal rafters and rafters are assembled with a preliminary “tack” on self-tapping screws, and only after the final adjustment they are replaced with a bolted connection or knocked down with nails.

Do-it-yourself hipped roof, sequence of work

The most difficult part in the construction of the truss roof system is the stage of hanging the diagonal rafters. Firstly, the angle of inclination of the diagonal rafters and the pressure with which they rest on the ridge run must be equal to the parameters of the pair of slant beams on the other side. The areas of the slopes and the angles of inclination in the hipped roof must be absolutely equal.

Secondly, an imaginary line drawn between the junction points or the vertices of the triangles formed by the diagonal rafters on both sides must pass exactly along the axis of the ridge run beam, both horizontally and vertically. Correctly aligning and adjusting the position of the diagonal rafters is the main difficulty in assembling a pitched roof.

At the stage of preparing the assembly of a hipped roof, a board or Mauerlat beam is laid, while it is important to carefully align the plane of the board with the horizon. A preliminary marking of places for the installation of side rafters, trussed supports and puffs is applied to the Mauerlat. The installation of a hipped roof is greatly simplified if a reinforced concrete slab is used as a ceiling.

After laying out and fastening the puffs, a ridge frame or “bench” is assembled. In fact, this is a ridge beam mounted on vertical racks. Longitudinal and transverse struts are sewn to the racks, which ensure the stability of the frame until the rafters of the hip slopes are assembled.

Before laying out the diagonal rafters, the ridge frame must be supported with a pair of temporary beams, which are attached to the Mauerlat and to the extreme rack of the "bench". This will prevent the ridge frame from tipping over under the pressure of the diagonal rafters on the other side.

Next is the hardest part. First, the real length of each of the sloping beams is determined, for this, a nail is hammered at the fulcrum at the end of the ridge beam and the length from the nail to the fulcrum on the Mauerlat is measured with a cord. Before installing the diagonals, each of the rafters is measured and cut along its length of the cord.

Having installed the braided elements on the Mauerlat, they determine the line of contact and washed down the contact surface. Having cut the plane of the support of the sloping beams, they are laid on the end of the ridge run.

The lower ends of the diagonal beams are installed in the corner joint of the Mauerlat beam with undercutting of the supporting surface of the beam according to the above scheme. Sometimes the shape of the undercut is made according to the template, but it is more reliable to mark the line washed down manually.

Ideally, an imaginary vertical plane drawn through any sloping rafter should be parallel to the plane of the sloping beam located on the opposite side of the pitched roof.

If everything is done correctly, the two diagonal rafters of the hipped roof will be exactly in the axis of the ridge beam. To avoid deflection, sufficiently long windrows, it is necessary to install struts and trussed supports with the installation of temporary fasteners from self-tapping screws. Similarly, rafters are installed from the opposite slope and the elements are aligned with maximum accuracy. To increase the rigidity of the hip slopes, several sprigs are cut out and installed at the edges of the diagonal beams.

After they proceed to the laying of ordinary truss beams. Mounting on the Mauerlat is carried out with a standard bolt-nut connection or using steel corners. In the upper part, the rafter board is usually cut down according to the pattern and laid on the ridge beam.

Usually, after hanging the rows on the ridge run and the Mauerlat, additional crossbars are installed in the upper part, which reduce the bursting effect of the hipped roof frame. After installing all the rafters and aligning the main power elements of the four-slope frame, they proceed to the main fastening of all rafters on the Mauerlat and ridge run.

At the next stage, struts are installed and fastened under ordinary rafters, triangular slopes are “driven” with outdoor beams. Each of the sprigs is cut to its length according to the scheme below and installed in a checkerboard pattern, this avoids weakening the beam due to the coincidence of the cuts on opposite sides.

All elements are fastened with nails, self-tapping screws and bolted connections with overhead steel plates and corners.

Final operations

After assembling the main frame of the hipped roof, fillies are stuffed into the ends of the rafters - short boards that form a row of roof overhangs along the wall. At the ends of the filly, the cut line is measured, cut so that the ends are in the same plane, and the cornice board is sewn on. The lower part of the filly is lined with a clapboard or an ordinary board.

After processing the wood of the beams with an antiseptic composition, they proceed to stuffing the boards of the crate. The thickness of the boards, the amount of material and the nailing points are chosen based on what kind of roof they plan to lay on a given hipped roof.

Conclusion

The four-pitched roof is deservedly considered one of the most convenient and practical roof structures. If you are going to build a four-slope version with your own hands, except correct calculation construction, you will need experience in aligning and adjusting the position of each of the beams. Therefore, it would be right to get the necessary experience and skill in working with hipped roofs from more experienced craftsmen.

The roof is just as important an element of the house as its walls and foundation, and therefore its choice should be taken responsibly. The most practical is a hipped roof, about the drawing and arrangement of which we will tell in much more detail.

Four-pitched roof - is it worth it to use this option?

This type of roof consists of two triangular-shaped slopes and two slopes in the form of a trapezoid. The main feature is that during construction there is no need to equip the front of the roof, due to which the construction process itself is greatly simplified. Any form of roofing has its advantages and disadvantages.

Of course, The main advantage of a four-slope building is considered outer beauty, but you can not ignore the improved thermal insulation properties. The pluses include the fact that the attic becomes larger when using such a design, the main thing is to reduce its lower size. Additional benefits include:

Functionality, stability and durability;
High resistance to loads (snow, strong winds, rain);
Uniform heating of the area, which allows you to maintain a comfortable temperature in the attic.

But, like any building structure, such a roof has its drawbacks. And the most important of them is the complexity of installation due to the rather large weight. Therefore, you definitely cannot do without assistants during installation. Other disadvantages include:

When erecting such a structure in the northern regions, it is necessary to use insulating materials, which leads to an increase in the cost of work;
If you are going to build an attic, you will have to spend money on building walls and installing windows.

Varieties of a hipped roof - what to choose?

A four-pitched roof is considered to be the most complex structure, but also the most durable, providing scope for the imagination of designers, because with its help you can create a wide variety of designs. Having decided on the type of roof, it will be possible to proceed with its construction.

Roof types:

Hipped, which is four triangular shapes that converge at one point, due to which a pyramid is formed. Depending on what the base of the roof will be, the shape of the slopes also depends.
Hip, which belongs to the most complex buildings, is most often used when you are building a rectangular house. It consists of several triangular slopes and two trapezoidal ones. Despite some difficulties during construction, it is this type of roof that is considered the most practical.
Danish (half-hip), characterized by uneven surfaces that divide the roof plane into several triangles. This design is best suited for buildings built in the northern regions.

Four-pitched roof: drawing, calculation and projects

First we need to carry out design work: we carry out and draw a drawing. Remember about the slope, which varies from 5 ° to 60 °, it all depends on the type of roof, the purpose of the attic and atmospheric loads:

So, in the northern regions, characterized by strong winds, roofs should be made with a slight slope.
For heavy loads, the roof should have a slope of 45°-60°.

The choice of material for covering the structure largely depends on this parameter. If the slope is 5°-10°, you should choose asbestos-cement sheets or roll coating, roofing metal selected for a roof with a slope of 14°-60°, a tiled roof is suitable for a slope of 30°-60°. In the course of design work, it is necessary to decide which rafters will be used in the construction of the roof - hanging or inclined.

You need to find out if you need additional elements to maintain the strength of the structure: braces or puffs. The design process allows you to take into account all kinds of loads on the rafters, which include:

Weight of roofing material;
The weight of other elements that make up the roofing "pie" (insulation material, steam and waterproofing);
The amount of precipitation;
Equipment that is installed on the roof (stairs, dormer windows, aerators).

You must also take into account the slope of the slopes - this will help calculate all the parameters of the rafters. Such a project necessarily includes drawings of rafters, the nodes of their connection with other elements, the location of the crate. If you have such a project on hand, you will be able to calculate the required materials for arranging rafters and roofing.

However, it is worth remembering that any mistake at this stage can lead to negative consequences in the process of purchasing materials, which will lead to additional costs. And if you understand that you cannot do the work yourself, it is best to turn to specialists - they will be able to calculate all the loads and draw up a competent project that will meet all the specified requirements.

Rafter system and hipped roof device

When creating such a structure, slanting (diagonal) rafters are used, which are directed to the corners of the structure. They must be created from a double beam, since this type of rafter must withstand a large load due to the weight of the roof. Their other feature is the use of rafters (short rafters), which rest against the rafters - this will allow the structure to withstand even more weight.

If you decide to build a roof and truss system yourself, be sure to calculate the loads, since all your further work will depend on this. The following loads can affect the system: the weight of the roof, the weight of the lathing, purlins, as well as loads in the form of snow and wind. For middle lane our country, according to experts, the load is approximately 180 kg per square meter, in winter this figure rises to 450 kilograms.

Please note: during the design of the rafters, you must carry out several calculations, the first of which is aimed at identifying strength, and the second - at determining the degree of their deformation.

Suitable materials:

Many choose a rectangular bar to create them, either wooden planks, the cross section of which is 5 * 15 * 20 cm. It is best to choose conifers (pines, larch, spruce).
Steel elements can be used to increase rigidity. Such structures will be much stiffer and stronger than wood systems.
After installing the structure, we proceed to the manufacture of the crate, for which you need to use wooden boards up to 5 cm wide. The main thing is to make sure that the material is dry and practical, which guarantees its durability.

Before this, a film is laid, thanks to which the roof will be isolated from moisture and steam. She is fastened construction stapler. Only after that we can proceed to the arrangement of the roof. The next step is the laying of roofing material, which we will choose based on our preferences and financial capabilities, taking into account, among other things, the strength and shape of the roof. The material is fastened securely and carefully, pay special attention to ensure that snow and rain do not penetrate the roof.

Installation of truss systems

As we have already said, such a roof consists of braces, rafters, support beams and other parts that give the structure rigidity and reliability. To create a roof, you must first install the rafters - the result of all your work depends on this.

Pitched roof structures are very often used in private homes. Their four-slope variety is ideal for tall buildings, since the roof looks more compact and neat without a massive gable. The design of the hipped roof contains many constituent elements. It can be both relatively simple and more complex due to dormers and dormer windows. But in the latter case, it looks more interesting and diverse.

The hipped roof, in comparison with its gable counterpart, better resists wind loads, precipitation and protects the walls of the building well. Its design is more complex, but such a roof can be built independently on a small house or gazebo. In the photo on the network you can see how beautiful and harmonious the 4-pitched roof looks. She decorates like one-story houses and taller buildings.

Before you make a hipped roof with your own hands, you need to decide on its type. There are the following types of such systems:

hip design has in its composition two slopes of a trapezoidal shape and two triangular slopes, called hips. The first two slopes are joined to each other in the ridge. During installation, the method of arranging layered rafters, as in a gable system, and sloping rafter legs from a 4-slope system, is used.
Half hip design has the same structure, only the hip slopes are shortened. Under them is a pediment, in which you can make large windows to illuminate the attic or attic floor without losing the strength of the roof.
You can also build hipped roofs with your own hands if you make four slopes in the shape of an isosceles triangle. They converge at one point.
Hardest to build yourself hipped roof complex configuration with many valleys, gables, adjoining and attic windows. In this case, it is better to entrust the construction to specialists, since only they will be able to correctly calculate the structure, execute its plan, diagram and assemble it on the spot.

Attention! In addition to the supporting frame of the roof, it is necessary to decide on roofing, waterproofing and thermal insulation materials because different roof designs and slopes require different materials.

Constituent elements

Since the design of a hipped roof is practically the same as gable system, it consists of the same constituent elements, but with the addition of some additional details. 4-pitched roof includes the following details:

Mauerlat. This is a wooden beam of square or rectangular section, which is laid on top of the outer bearing walls on which the rafters will rest. It takes the entire load and distributes it evenly for transfer to the walls. Houses with a hipped roof are made with a Mauerlat section of 100x100 mm or 150x100 mm.
Beds are internal supporting elements that are laid on load-bearing walls inside the house or support. The material and cross section of the bed is the same as that of the Mauerlat.
Rafters are divided into sloping and side. The last of them form a trapezoidal slope, and the slanting ones are needed for hip slopes. In a hipped roof, side rafters are not used. The side rafters are assembled from a beam with a section of 5x15 cm, and the diagonal ones - 10x15 cm. The optimal step of the rafter system is 800-900 mm, but it can be less or more depending on the chosen roofing and roof design features.
Racks are needed to support the frame of the four-slope structure.
Skate run- a horizontal element that simultaneously connects the rafters and serves as a support for them. The pitched design of the hipped roof does not have a ridge. It is better to make it from a bar with a section of 150x100 (50) mm.
Puffs - a horizontal element that connects paired side rafters, preventing them from moving apart. Material - board with a section of 5x15 cm.
Sprockets are shortened rafters that are attached to a diagonal leg. They are made from a board measuring 150x50 mm.
Struts are special struts that allow you to increase the strength and load-bearing capacity of the roof.
The filly is the elements that form the overhang of the roof and are attached to the rafters from below. It is made from a bar with a section of 120x50 mm.

When arranging a more complex 4-pitched roof, the drawing and structural diagram may contain other additional elements, for example, cornices, protective strips, additional lathing, etc. In order to accurately calculate the required amount of material, it is necessary to make a sketch or drawing to scale, and carry out all the necessary calculations on it.

Important: the material of all the constituent elements of the roof is wood conifers not lower than grade 2 with humidity not more than 15%.

Mounting sequence

We will study how a hipped roof is made with our own hands using the example of the simplest hip design. The step-by-step process of installing the constituent elements of the roof looks like this:

To transfer and evenly distribute the load from the roof frame, snow and the roofing itself, Mauerlats are laid on the load-bearing walls. The beams are fixed to the enclosing structures by means of anchor studs, which are laid even at the stage of wall construction. If the house is built of wood, then the role of the Mauerlat is performed by the last crown of the log house. Mauerlat beam is necessarily protected from brick, concrete and stone walls by means of waterproofing. To do this, it is wrapped with two layers of roofing material.
Beds are laid on carriers internal walls. They are necessary where racks are provided in the truss system. If there are no internal load-bearing walls in the house or they are in the wrong place, then reinforced beams must be provided under the racks, which act as floors. As a rule, beams have a section of 20x5 cm, therefore load-bearing elements increase to a section of 20x10 cm.
After that, they begin to install racks on load-bearing beams or beds. Racks are leveled by level or plumb and temporarily fixed by means of supports made of boards. For reliable fixation of the rack, metal corners or steel plates are used. For a simple hip system, you will need one row of poles centered just below the ridge. The step of the racks is not more than 2 m. When arranging a hipped roof, the racks must be installed under diagonal legs at the same distance from the corner of the house.
Next, runs are placed on the installed racks. In a conventional hip system, this run is a strong point. At the hipped roof, all the girders form a rectangle with a smaller perimeter than the house itself. All runs in this design are fastened with metal corners and self-tapping screws.
Now you can start installing the rafter legs. At the same time, the installation of side rafters in a simple hip system is performed in the following sequence:

A board (150x25 mm) along the width of the rafters is applied to the ridge at the installation site of the extreme rack and a template is made. The upper cut is marked on it (the place by which the rafter leg will rest on the ridge) and cut out.
Next, the template is applied to the ridge and the lower cut is cut out (the one with which the rafter element will rest on the Mauerlat beam).
After that, the finished template is applied to the ridge at the installation site of the rafters and the need to fit for each rafter element is checked.
The rafters are marked and a notch is cut out according to the template.
Now the rafter legs can be installed and attached to the Mauerlat and the ridge beam. For fixing use metal corners and screws or staples.

You can learn more about the installation of a hipped roof truss system from the proposed video:

For the manufacture of diagonal reinforced rafters, you can use two spliced boards of a conventional side rafter. A template for diagonal legs is done in the same way. The upper part of these elements rests on the rack, and the lower part rests on the corner part of the Mauerlat. That is why the cuts must be made at 45 degrees.
Next, sprigs are installed between the two diagonal rafters. The installation step of these elements is equal to the installation step of the rafters. The upper part of the narozhnik rests on a diagonal leg, the lower part - on the Mauerlat. Washed down on the top of the sprigs in half of the elements is done in a mirror image. The lower washed down is usually performed in place. After mounting the element, an overhang is formed, which is aligned with the stretched cord and cut.
The constructed truss system does not yet guarantee the reliability of the roof. Since the diagonal legs bear the maximum load, it is necessary to install additional racks under them - spregnels. They must rest on reinforced floor beams.
Braces are installed under the side rafter legs, which are supported by the lower edge on the bed or floor beam, and their upper edge should rest against the rafter at an angle of about 45 °.
Do-it-yourself hipped roof can be made with any roofing, for example, from ondulin, corrugated board, metal tiles, flexible tiles. But it is worth remembering that under the soft coating you need to make a continuous crate of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB. If you are planning to do attic floor, then it is necessary to lay a heater between the rafters, and hem everything from below with a vapor barrier. If the attic is cold, then only the floors are insulated. Under roofing waterproofing is necessarily laid and a ventilation gap is made.