The procedure for lining the furnace with ceramic tiles. Finishing the stove with tiles: how to do it right. Facing the oven with tiles with your own hands

Tiled. If the heating device has lost its original appearance, then such a lining may well replace the old layer of plaster. If the stove was whitewashed or painted, then after a while its appearance had to be updated. But if you properly lay the tile, then it will be ready to serve for several decades.

Finishing is carried out not only to make the stove look attractive, but also to preserve the layer of plaster, which acts as a protective barrier that does not allow the seams between the bricks to open. Among other things, the tile has a high heat capacity, therefore, when heated, it itself gives off heat to the room for a long time, preventing the stove from cooling down quickly.

Previously, tiles were laid only on the mortar, but today it is customary to use new methods that over time allow you to replace facing material on new. However, before starting finishing work, it is necessary to carry out some activities that are no less important for safe use ovens and quality styling materials.

Preparatory work

If you are faced with the question of how to overlay the oven with tiles, then you need to start the process with the preparation of tools, including:

spatulas;
tile cutter;
pencil;
metal ruler;
building level;
electric drill;
glue container.

As for spatulas, you will need several varieties, among them:

jagged;
ordinary;
angular;
rubber.

The first will be needed for applying and distributing glue. It is recommended to purchase a tool with a tooth height of 6 mm. But a straight spatula, which is also needed, will be required to clean the surface. To decorate the corners, you should purchase an angle spatula, but you can close the seams between the tiles with a rubber tool.

Among other things, you should take care of the presence of an electric drill, which will have a nozzle in the form of a mixer. So you can knead the glue. In addition to the building level, you should purchase or find a plumb line. For marking, you may need a pencil or marker. When performing installation, it is best to have at hand:

metal scissors;
hammer;
riveter.

For the manufacture of corners, you may need rubber or wooden hammer. Perhaps you should take care of having a drill with a set of drill bits for metal.

Preparation of materials

Quite often, novice home craftsmen wonder how to tile. If you are also one of them, then you need to prepare the following materials:

heat resistant glue;
grout;
primer;
plinth.

As for the glue, it is necessary to choose the one that is intended for lining stoves and fireplaces. But if the tile will be installed dry, then you should prepare:

sheet of galvanized steel;
aluminum two-meter strips;
steel corner.

As for the steel sheet, its thickness should be equal to the limit of 0.6 to 0.9 mm. Aluminum strips will have a width of 20 mm, they will be useful for the manufacture of the frame, where the guides will be installed.

Tile selection

The choice of tiles depends not only on the type of furnace, but also on the characteristics inherent in the material. Furnaces can be heating, heating and cooking, kitchen or made in the form of fireplaces. Each variety has a specific duration of the heating and cooling cycle.

Furnaces can also differ in heating temperature, so it is logical to assume that tiles should be selected taking into account these operating features. The cladding material must be resistant to high temperatures. In general, the stove can be overlaid with any tile, but not every variety of it is suitable for this purpose. For cladding, you can use heat-resistant (heat-resistant, refractory and heat-resistant) tiles. The coefficient of thermal expansion in this case will be equal to the limit from 7 to 8%.

If you are faced with the question of how to overlay the oven with tiles, then you must also take into account the strength of the material. Some varieties have a strength in the range of 300 N / m 2, which is much higher compared to concrete. Many consumers primarily pay attention to chemical inertness and environmental friendliness. When heated, the material should not release harmful substances, That's why chemical composition more attention needs to be paid.

Choosing a tile according to other characteristics

In order for the lining of the furnace to serve long time, you need to choose one that is resistant to scratches, wear and abrasion. For the reason that stove and stone tiles are installed on long term, it is desirable that during this period it does not change its aesthetic qualities. In addition, the tile must be low-porous. The higher this figure, the lower the strength.

It is also necessary to take into account the moisture absorption coefficient, it should not exceed 3%. If the coefficient increases, then the porosity increases and the strength decreases. Tiles for stoves must also be fire resistant. It is good if the material has a certificate containing data on this.

The main types of tiles

Terracotta tiles are one of the types of material for facing heating equipment. The process of its production involves the use of a certain type of clay, as a result, it is possible to obtain a heat-resistant tile, which has proven itself as a facing material for fireplaces and stoves. Among the main features, high strength and the presence of terracotta color, which can be glazed or unglazed, should be highlighted.

Due to the fact that glazed terracotta tiles are more attractive, they are used most often. Due to the fact that the products have vapor permeability and a special structure, this finish is recommended for use when lining stoves in saunas and baths. Such a surface is easy to care for, it is heat-resistant, and during installation it shows excellent adhesion to any surfaces.

Tile "Majolica"

Another type of heat-resistant tile is "Majolica", which is a more advanced version of glazed terracotta tiles. Their characteristics are similar, the difference is only in appearance. Due to the fact that the Majolica pattern is applied in a thin layer, surface cracking is almost excluded. However, Majolica tiles are not recommended for use in or in the kitchen, as well as in rooms with high humidity, since the material has a porous structure.

Choice of clinker tiles

If you decide to use heat-resistant clinker tiles for stoves and fireplaces, then you need to take its choice seriously. Heat resistance is indicated by the letter "T". Before purchasing the material, you must make sure that it is fire resistant. But as for the preferred thickness, for a fireplace or stove, it should be 8 mm. Thinner cannot be used unless it is 6 mm, otherwise the material will experience constant heat and quickly break down.

For cladding, square-shaped tiles with a side of 120 mm are the best. If the dimensions are quite large, and the thickness remains the same, then the strength and rigidity of the masonry decreases. With an increase in thickness, problems arise with fastening, because the glue is not able to hold the impressive weight of the cladding. The color of the tile should vary slightly, unless you use special decorative techniques.

Before laying tiles on a brick oven, you must make sure that the products correspond to the exact dimensions. The point here is not even in the aesthetic side of the issue, but in the complexity of installation. After all, if the tiles have different sizes, then it will not be possible to lay them tightly to each other, therefore, before purchasing the tile, it is necessary to check for compliance with the geometric parameters. To do this, two products are added together, which will allow you to check if there are gaps between the surfaces.

Preparatory work

Whatever method of finishing you choose, the surface of the furnace must first be prepared, for this you need to remove the old layer of plaster. In order to make these works easier to carry out, the walls are wetted several times with water. If the coating is clay, then it can be removed with a spatula. But if there is a cement-based mortar surface, you may have to act with a hammer and chisel. However, in the end, you should get a furnace wall completely freed from the old finish.

After you cope with the plaster, you need to walk on the surface with an iron brush or grinder, the last of which must be supplemented with a special nozzle. The surface is sprayed with water from a spray gun, and the brick seams are cleaned, while it is necessary to go deep by 10 mm. This is required in order for the plaster to adhere to the wall.

If the masonry is new, then it should be dried well, and then cleaned of dust and mortar residues. As soon as these works are completed, the surface is primed, and the composition must fall to the full depth of the joints. Allow the substrate to dry before proceeding with laying stove tiles. The best preparation is to apply a primer in 2 layers. The walls are checked for their straightness, because in the end you should get a foundation without drops. The process is carried out using a plumb line and a building level.

If you notice differences, then the wall will have to be leveled. This can be done with a plaster mixture, which is intended for finishing the furnace. If the layer is thin, then it is applied with a wide spatula, leveling the solution. But if it is necessary to form a thick layer, the solution is applied by spraying, and then leveled by the rule.

Adhesive selection

Before you start lining, you need to pick up the glue. In order not to calculate the proportions, it is better to purchase a ready-made composition intended for finishing fireplaces and stoves. Some craftsmen prefer to use a cement-based mortar, adding salt or PVC to it. If you add a little salt, the substance will acquire the ability to accumulate moisture, preventing the clay, concrete and glue from drying out quickly.

Laying tiles

Laying tiles on the stove is carried out, starting from the bottom. At the first stage, it will be necessary to beat off the line of the first row. Marking is carried out using a colored cord. At first, the lining may slide down, so a perforated metal corner must be installed along the line. It is fixed with dowels, which must be removed from each other by a distance of 200 mm.

Before you start facing the Russian stove ceramic tiles with your own hands, it is necessary to install perforated corners on the corners of the heater, which will allow you to arrange a corner joint. After preparation, you can proceed to the preparation of glue. The solution is infused for 10 minutes, only after that you can proceed to the installation of the first row.

Using a notched trowel, an adhesive mass is applied to the wall, after which it is distributed over an area equal to 7 tiles. On the surface covered with glue, it is necessary to lay the cladding, and install crosses between the individual tiles. Laying tiles "Majolica", between separate elements you can leave a gap, the thickness of which will be 10 mm. Instead of crosses, in this case, you can use chopped pieces of drywall.

Tiles must be pressed against the wall, checking their position building level. Adhesive protruding from the seams must be removed immediately. The seam space should remain empty, because later it should be filled with grout. It is necessary to lay the tiles as evenly as possible, but the position of the products can be corrected within another 15 minutes. After this time, the glue will set, and it will no longer be possible to move the lining.

After you have finished finishing the oven with tiles in the first four rows, you need to take a break for a couple of hours so that the glue sets well. After laying, you can complete, and then leave for a day or 36 hours. Before doing this, it is important to take care of cleaning the surface from adhesive residue. At this stage, it will not be difficult to wipe it off, but after it finally seizes, it will be very difficult to remove the stains.

Having laid the clinker tiles for stoves, you can proceed to grouting. For this, it is necessary to use heat-resistant compounds that can withstand about 200 ° C. The composition is selected by color, but you should not choose white, as with temperature changes it can acquire a dirty shade. Having closed the seams, you can proceed to wet cleaning. After some time, the mixture will be quite difficult to remove from the surface of the cladding and floor.

Conclusion

Now you know how to lay tiles on an old stove. To do this, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the walls of the heater, and then cover them with a primer. It is important to make sure that the base is as even as possible, otherwise it is leveled. As for the mortar for masonry, then the best option will become a heat-resistant adhesive for ceramic tiles, because you do not have to independently select the ingredients, as well as the proportions. The manufacturer has already done all this for the master. Yes, and cement compositions have many disadvantages. For fire resistance, additives to the composition are required.

The conditions in which the furnace operates determine the complexity of all stages of its construction. This fully applies to the last of them - the finish. In most cases, tiles are used as cladding, but just choosing the right one is not enough - you also need to know how to lay it correctly. Below this process will be covered in detail.

Why is cladding needed?

Here are the reasons why you should do the finishing of the furnace:

Difficulties in finishing the furnace

To avoid fatal mistakes, the master must understand the features of the process of facing the heat generator. We note three important facts:

during operation, the furnace heats up to high temperatures;
periods of heating alternate with periods of cooling, that is, there are significant temperature differences;
the efficiency of the furnace, its efficiency are linked to the thermal conductivity and heat capacity of the walls.

Taking into account all that has been said, the following requirements have to be imposed on tiles and glue:

They must endure as much as possible. more so-called thermal cycles (TC). This term refers to a single heating of the furnace and its subsequent cooling.
Materials must maintain working qualities at high temperatures and not emit harmful volatile substances.
The influence on the thermal characteristics of the furnace should be minimal: its heat capacity, efficiency, nature and duration of heat transfer should remain optimal.
The lighter the lining, the better.
The temperature coefficient of expansion (TEC) of the materials should be as close as possible to the same parameter of the brick from which the furnace body is composed. If this condition is met, the internal stresses in the furnace body and lining during heating and cooling will be the smallest.

Knowing this, it will be easier to comparative characteristic different types tiles used for cladding.

So, tiles, porcelain stoneware, terracotta, clinker tiles, etc. can be used for facing the furnace.

Tiles

This piece finishing material is made of clay, but it cannot be called a tile, since each element has a cavity. During installation, sand must be poured into it. Finishing the stove with tiles is the most preferred option, since such lining not only does not worsen, but even improves the characteristics of the installation: the efficiency increases by about 10 - 15%. But you need to be prepared for the fact that this material is one of the most expensive.

Tiling, firstly, requires high professionalism, and secondly, it is carried out in parallel with the construction of the furnace.

Due to the characteristics of the raw materials and manufacturing technology, deviations in the size of tiles can reach 1.5 mm, so before starting work, the material must be laid out on the floor in order to select the most suitable tiles. Such a lining is laid on a greasy clay solution.

Ceramic granite and tiled

Furnace owners use these materials quite willingly, primarily because of their affordable cost. But you should know that their characteristics are far from ideal: TKR is very different from brick, and thermal conductivity is relatively low. The latter circumstance affects the operating parameters of the furnace, which, as mentioned above, should not be. A structure clad in a heat-insulating casing will consume more fuel and work in a completely different temperature regime than it was designed for.

Porcelain tile is a heavy material, therefore, to support the cladding, steel profiles

When using tiled or porcelain tiles, steel profiles will have to be introduced into the cladding design - they will perform a supporting function.

This is a significant drawback, since TKR have become much higher than brick. You can resort to such a solution only if the stove has already been heated many times.

Of all the varieties of porcelain stoneware, only zero-caliber tiles are suitable for finishing heat generators.

Note. A fireplace, unlike a stove, is more decorative than a heating device, and the heat engineering processes in it are not so finely tuned. For example, the temperature difference in the stove during one shopping center is 500°C, while in the fireplace it is only 150°C. Accordingly, lower requirements are imposed on its cladding, and kaolin tiles (has a white underside), like porcelain stoneware, are quite suitable for a fireplace.

Clinker

Clinker tiles are produced by firing an extruded clay mass at a high temperature - about 1,200 ° C or more. This material is not designed for loads, therefore, unlike paving clinker tiles, it is fired only once, which has a positive effect on the cost.

Clinker tiles are available in a wide range of colors, which allows you to choose the cladding in accordance with the interior of the room.

If tiles and porcelain stoneware are not very suitable for lining furnaces, then clinker tiles are quite a “stove” material. Among her strengths relate:

affordable cost;
small TKR, thanks to which seams can be made 3–4 mm wide (for other types - 10–12 mm).

But there are also some disadvantages:

The coefficient of thermal conductivity, although higher than that of a tile, is still relatively small: the efficiency of a furnace with clinker lining is reduced by 2 - 3%. For this reason, it can be considered more suitable for fireplaces.
The material is brittle. Because of this, tiles with a rather large thickness have to be used for facing heat generators: for stoves - 8 mm, for fireplaces - 6 mm.
The color is uneven, the surface is rough. True, a skilled designer can easily achieve an organic combination of such finishes with the interior of the room.

Terracotta

It differs from clinker more attractive appearance: the color is almost uniform, while the color range is more diverse. This is due to the fact that mixtures of pottery clay and fireclay with mineral additives are used as raw materials.

There are more significant advantages:

The disadvantage of this material is only one - the high cost. With an equal thickness, terracotta tiles will cost a quarter more than clinker tiles. But since thinner terracotta can be used - the minimum thickness for stove lining is 6 - 7 mm - the difference in finishing costs will not be so high.

A type of tile that can be described as glazed terracotta. A pattern can be introduced into the glazed coating by burning.

Drawing on majolica is applied by burning

Majolica can be made in both smooth and embossed versions. At the same time, its surface can be both matte and glossy. Matte majolica is the only type of tile that goes well with wood.

In terms of thermal characteristics, majolica is equivalent to terracotta tiles, but in terms of aesthetic merits it is not inferior even to tiles. Therefore, its cost can be considered acceptable: only 32 - 35% more expensive than clinker, and if without a picture, then about 29%.

Thus, out of five types of ceramic tiles for lining stoves, three are suitable - clinker, terracotta and majolica, the latter two being the most preferable. Tiles are produced not only in flat view, but also L-shaped (installed at the corners), as well as with a complex curved shape and rounded edges.

For the calculation, you need to calculate the area occupied by one tile and two seams adjacent to it on adjacent sides. For example: one tile measuring 30x20 cm with a joint width of 1 cm will have an area of 31x21 = 651 square meters. cm. By this value, you need to divide the surface area that needs to be lined.

The layout of the tiles can be like this:

matching vertical seams: used if all tiles are the same size;
with dressing (displacement) of vertical seams: it is used if there are many trimmed fragments - they will not be conspicuous;
diagonal: allows you to create a pattern that is rarely seen, but is complex and has a lot of waste.

Schemes for laying out tiles

Laying methods

Installation of tiles may differ not only in the way it is laid out (see above), but also in technology. Use one of two options:

with cutting seams;
without division.

Cutting is the extraction of mortar from the seams of brickwork to a depth of about 10 mm. Both methods will be discussed in detail in the step-by-step instructions.

There are two types of glue for lining furnaces:

one-component;
two-component (the second component is a primer).

Two-component compositions are used if the laying of tiles is carried out with cutting joints. Masonry without cutting seams is carried out using a one-component adhesive.

In addition, adhesives are:

heat-resistant;
heat resistant.

Heat resistance implies the ability to withstand a certain number of TCs with a temperature difference of at least 150 degrees. Heat resistance is the ability to withstand heating up to 500 degrees for a long time. Only heat-resistant compositions should be used for lining furnaces. At a temperature of 300 degrees, typical for the hottest areas of the furnace surface, such adhesives can withstand any number of TCs.

Another characteristic of tile adhesive is the bearing capacity. The heavier the facing material is, the higher it should be.

Most often, the following compositions are used for gluing stoves with tiles:

You can lay tiles, like tiles, on a clay mortar, in which sand, chisel or sawdust plays the role of a filler. The ratio of clay and filler is:

for oily clay - 1:4;
for normal - 1:3;
for skinny - 1:2.5.

Salt is added to the clay solution (1 glass per bucket), which retains moisture and thereby prevents cracks. The addition of fireclay powder will make the solution resistant to high temperatures (important for coal-fired ovens).

The volume ratio of water and clay is approximately 1:4.

A cement-clay mortar has a higher adhesion and strength, for the preparation of which the following components must be mixed:

clay: 1 part;
cement: 1 part;
chalk: 1 part;
sand: 3 parts.

Here is what the master should have in order to quickly and efficiently lay the tiles:

In addition to tiles and glue, you will need to prepare the following materials:

dowels;
wire mesh - used as a reinforcement of the adhesive layer;
plastic crosses for the formation of tile joints of equal width;
special grout for facing furnaces on a silicone or mineral basis.

To lay the tiles on the stove correctly, you need to proceed as follows:

Using a chisel, knock down from the surface old finish, if any. We clean its remains with a metal brush.
Before proceeding with the lining, it is necessary to remove old plaster from the surfaces of the furnace. You can do this with a chisel.
We fix the reinforcing metal mesh. Its task is to evenly distribute not only mechanical, but also thermal loads, so the use of fiberglass instead of steel wire is not allowed. The cell size should be in the range from 30x30 to 50x50 mm. Wire diameter - from 1.5 to 2 mm. A mesh of such wire will just fit in the adhesive layer standard thickness- 3 - 4 mm. Apply wire mesh larger diameter it is impossible, even if the thickness of the adhesive allows (some brands are laid with a layer of more than 5 mm). Otherwise, the expansion of the steel when heated will be large enough to cause the tile to peel off.
Too thick reinforcing wire can cause the tiles to peel off when the oven is heated.
We prepare the glue in accordance with the instructions. In most cases, the powder is simply poured little by little into the water with constant stirring with a mixer or drill with a special nozzle. In this case, it is important to adjust the speed of rotation of the tool so that it does not cause foaming of the glue. After dissolution, the mixture is kept for 10 - 15 minutes, during which mixing with water occurs.
The dry mixture should be poured into water in small portions with continuous stirring.
On the surface of the furnace at the very bottom, we apply glue with a notched trowel so that it is possible to glue the tiles horizontally in the amount of 4 - 5 pieces.
The adhesive is applied to small areas (for gluing 4-5 tiles) using a notched trowel
We press the first part and slightly turn it clockwise and back.
Crosses are installed between adjacent tiles - this way they achieve the same width of the seam
We check the position of the tile using a level with an ampoule at the end: the part must be located in a strictly vertical plane, and its edges must be horizontal and vertical. If deviations are found, the tiles are corrected with careful blows of a rubber hammer.
Next, glue the second tile, placing a cross in the seam between it and the previous one. The joint width for clinker tiles should be 3 - 4 mm, for all others - 10 - 12 mm.
We check the position of the new tile with a level, if necessary, correct it with a rubber mallet.
Lay other tiles in the same way.
When 3 or four rows are laid out, it is necessary to pause until the glue hardens and only then continue to work. If more rows are laid on the wet glue, the cladding will begin to slide under its own weight. Usually the setting time of the adhesive is 3-4 hours.
If necessary, cut the tiles with a grinder or tile cutter. Cut fragments should be placed in the least visible places, for example, in the corner where the stove is adjacent to the wall.
The tile cutter makes cutting tiles much easier.
After a day, we remove the crosses, remove the influx of glue in the seams. Next, prepare the grout according to the recipe. It is important to grout the joints before the adhesive has completely cured. Otherwise, after the grout has completely dried, individual tiles may peel off or microcracks will appear in the seams.
Grouting is done before the glue hardens.
The joints are filled with mineral grout either manually if they are sunken, or with a mounting gun if they are convex.
To smooth the solution, we use rubber spatula. If the grout gets on the tile, it must immediately be wiped with a damp cloth - after drying, it will be impossible to remove the solution without harm to the tile. Silicone grout can only be used with a mounting gun - it sticks strongly to any other tool.

Cladding completed. accelerating furnace you can start after the glue has completely set, which usually takes a week.

Features of cladding with cutting seams

Installation of cladding with cutting seams is good in that it does not provide for the introduction into brickwork metal elements capable of thermal expansion to cause its cracking. And in general, the mechanical effect on the body of the furnace will be the smallest. But the amount of labor costs, on the contrary, will be significant.

It is extremely important to prevent the appearance of cracks when the solution is knocked out, but in conditions where the solution has sintered into stone (if the furnace has been in operation for a long time), this is not so easy to do. In this case, the cutting process turns into a long painstaking work that requires considerable effort and sufficient experience.

We carry out the cutting of the seams, if it is decided to lay the tiles in this way:

First, the solution is slightly softened by applying a damp burlap or other cloth to the surface of the oven (it is not necessary to soak it strongly with water). This "lotion" is aged for 1 - 1.5 hours.
The solution begins to be carefully knocked out with a cross-cutting tool - this is the name of a narrow chisel designed for cutting grooves. Hammer blows should be very light.
Having passed the softened layer, the soaking must be repeated. So you need to choose a solution to a depth of 9 - 10 mm.
After cutting the seams from the surface of the furnace, brush off the fragments and dust with a brush.
We apply primer to the surface of the furnace - the first component of a two-component adhesive composition. He must fill the seams and cover the surface of the oven with a layer of such thickness as indicated in the instructions.

The next stage - the installation of the grid - should be carried out on still wet, plastic soil, therefore it is impossible to immediately cover the entire surface with it. The wall is processed in sections of approximately 1.5 square meters. m, and it is necessary to act after applying the soil as quickly as possible.

How to attach reinforcing mesh

The method of fastening the mesh depends on the method of laying the tiles:

With cutting seams

Without cutting seams

In this case, the grid has to be fixed to the bricks with steel dowels. Plastic sleeves should not be used, as they will melt when heated. As mentioned above, with this method there is a risk of cracks in the masonry due to thermal expansion of the hardware.

Features of finishing metal furnaces

Metal walls have significant elasticity and ductility, so the process of cladding them at first glance may seem quite simple. But the picture is spoiled by the high TKR of steel and the temperature that it reaches during the operation of the furnace. Based on this, the most preferred method of cladding metal furnace is staining with heat-resistant enamel - today such compositions are commercially available in a wide variety.

Before applying the enamel, the metal walls are degreased. Primer treatment is not used, since this material does not have heat resistance.

If you still want to tile the oven with tiles, the latter can be fixed on the kleimers. They will play the role of a movable ligament, which will prevent the peeling of the cladding during temperature changes.

According to the mode of operation, the sauna stove is very different from the heating and cooking stove, therefore, higher requirements are imposed on the thermal characteristics of its lining (thermal conductivity + heat capacity). A special kind of natural stone is best suited for this purpose - soapstone, also known as steatite or oven stone. Another common everyday name is soapstone. This mineral received it for a smooth-silky surface with a characteristic oily sheen.

Facing with stove stone - the most suitable option for sauna stove

There is no crystallization water in soapstone, so its structure, unlike many other types of natural stone, does not change when heated. The thermal conductivity is high and the heat capacity is relatively low, so that the efficiency of the furnace and its heat output remain almost constant.

The density of soapstone is relatively low, so it can be glued in the same way as tiles.

Of the ceramic tiles for a sauna stove, porcelain stoneware is best suited, since it withstands the highest temperatures and is the least porous of all.

Care and maintenance

It should be remembered that any ceramic tile is a fragile material, so when using a poker, tongs or other tools, you should be careful and avoid accidental blows to the cladding.

If it is necessary to clean the tiles from dirt, it is not allowed to use acidic, abrasive detergents, as well as bleaches. Fatty contaminants are removed with a warm solution of ordinary baking soda, you can also use a non-abrasive chlorine-containing detergent. Stains of glue, resin, paint are reduced with acetone or gasoline. IN last resort you can also use an acid-based agent, but only pointwise.

If the tile is glazed, it must be treated with a water repellent before washing. It should be remembered that the glaze is especially sensitive to abrasion.

Video: finishing the stove with tiles on homemade corners

Since the stove willy-nilly becomes part of the interior, its decoration is mandatory. Tiles are the most suitable option because, unlike plaster, they are easy to install and keep clean without much effort. Having familiarized yourself with all the intricacies of the furnace finishing process, you can create a high-quality and durable cladding.

In modern life, despite the great variety heating systems, which “work” without distracting a person from his daily affairs, return more and more confidently and take their place of honor brick stoves and fireplaces, which decorated not only the houses of ordinary inhabitants, but also the palaces of aristocrats, warming them with living warmth. Since ancient times, the hearth has symbolized the well-being of the family. These heating units were built soundly, for centuries, and decorated with various kinds of tiles. Now, tiles are used to finish brick ovens. In this article, we will learn what kind of tiles to lay over the stove so that it truly decorates it, and does not fall off at the slightest movement, we will consider the stages of lining the stoves.

the absence of cracks, the special ceramic mixture from which stove plates are made allows to increase heat transfer;
through the ceramic cladding, toxins and other combustion products of the furnace furnace cannot pass into the room;
the structure lined with ceramic tiles looks aesthetically beautiful and does not “spoil” the interior of the room;
it is much easier to clean smooth ceramic tiles from dust and dirt than rough plaster.

Naturally, for facing heating devices, it is necessary to buy a special heat-resistant tile, and as a connecting element, use a clay solution, which over time, under the stable influence of high temperature, becomes even stronger.

Types of heat-resistant ceramic tiles

Since the stove (fireplace) is an object that heats up to very high temperatures, the finishing material with which it is lined must have certain characteristics:

resistance to high temperatures;
strength;
resistance to mechanical stress;
the thickness of the tile should not be less than 6 mm;
the structure should not be porous.

Not every ceramic tile corresponds to the characteristics listed above. There are few of them:

terracotta;
clinker tiles;
tiles;
majolica;
porcelain tile.

Characteristics of facing tiles

Before tiling a brick oven, we recommend that you study the properties of each of the listed types of facing material.

Terracotta tiles are one of the earliest facing materials used by the ancient Greeks and Romans. It is a fired unglazed product made of clay of a certain grade, which has a highly porous structure. Terracotta was also used in the manufacture of tiles and as a decorative element. This material is characterized by high strength and rich bright red-brown color.

Tiles are a unique material specially created for lining stoves. The uniqueness of the tiles is that they are piece material and have come down to our days since the time of Babylon. This ceramic product from clay of certain varieties, different from others, in a shape similar to a box. This cladding material owes its shape to its increased thermal performance, and the very heat transferred to the room from a stove lined with tiles is considered the most beneficial for human health and environmentally friendly.

At its core, majolica is, more advanced, glazed terracotta. The technique of painting with tin-lead glaze came to us from Mallorca. Majolica products were hand-painted by talented artists, so they were always a luxury item, and they could only be found in wealthy houses.

Furnace tiling

To overlay the oven with ceramic tiles, you need to choose a quality product, on the wrong side there should be special notches that provide a stronger grip with the mortar. Some manufacturers produce finishing tiles with a locking system that allows you to lay it without visible seams.

If you know how to properly tile the stove, then the lining of your heating unit will delight your eyes for a long time. First you need to clean the surface of the furnace and embroider the seams, remove dust and dirt, if the cladding is a repair stage old stove, old plaster and paint are also removed. To facing tiles firmly sitting in its place, the oven is covered with a special metal wire mesh, which is attached to the masonry with large nails or self-tapping screws. Aluminum reinforcing strips are also used, which provide strength to the masonry.

After that, a layer of mortar and cement and clay is applied to the masonry covered with mesh. The grade of clay does not really matter, but the cement must be grade 400. Wait for the plaster to dry before you start laying the tiles.

Laying tiles starts from the bottom, the mortar is applied to the back of the tile and applied to the plaster, a little pressure is applied, and uniform tapping distributes the mortar over the entire surface of the tile. In order for the seams to have the same width, restrictive crosses are used. The evenness of the lined surface is checked with a rail.

After completion of the laying work, grouting is carried out three days later. You can use the stove in a day.

Tiling

If a person doubts and wonders if it is possible to overlay the stove with tiles? There are practically no doubts regarding the lining of the stove with tiles. Since tiles are an ideal material for lining stoves.

Facing the stove with tiles is akin to a work of art, and craftsmen who know how to do it always enjoy special respect. Unlike other facing materials, tiles are installed during the construction of the furnace. We do not recommend taking on the laying of tiles on your own, without mastering the techniques of this ancient craft.

Before facing the stove, the tiles must be sorted. Since these are piece products, therefore, tiles with a darker pattern are disassembled from tiles with patterns of a light shade. In addition, it is necessary to set aside tiles with defects or cracks. After all this procedure, the tiles are adjusted in size by grinding and trimming the edges of the sides. It is customary to equalize the tiles under one reference sample. Tiles are laid in such a way that the glazes of two adjacent tiles do not touch during laying. For better adhesion to the solution, the tiles are soaked in water before laying.

They begin to lay the stove with tiles: first the tiles are laid, and then the bricks of the stove body are attached to them.

If you do not know what needs to be done and how to fold a tiled stove, contact the experts, so you will not spoil expensive material and get a stove that will be a masterpiece of stove skill.

Many years have passed, and the traditional old Russian stove, a wooden hut familiar to many, has almost remained in the past. Today, it has been replaced by the lining of the furnace. It is carried out with careful preparation, a certain set of tools and materials. From our article you can learn how to make the cladding yourself, what modern materials can be used to create its unique design, what tile glue looks like, how to cut it and stick it on the surface correctly, and how to clad the stove yourself without glue.

The simplest method by which the lining of the stove can be carried out is to apply plaster to the surface. Instead of the once familiar clay mixture, nowadays they use different kinds heat resistant plaster. Dry formulations are commercially available, which should be diluted with water before use according to the instructions. Experts recommend starting any type of cladding after waiting a month after the end of the masonry work. Since for such a period the masonry has time to dry well and shrink. Whatever method of cladding and cladding material is chosen, the surface must be carefully prepared for the application of plaster and the actual laying procedure. It is from these works that it directly depends on whether plaster and tile adhesive will lie well on the surface.

Finishing stoves with tiles is very durable, it does not have to be updated every 2 to 3 years. A tiled fireplace or stove not only looks aesthetically pleasing. After all, the tile allows you to save the plaster layer, has an increased heat capacity and, heating up, fills the entire room with heat. It allows you to create interesting design to your taste. First you need to remove the existing layer of plaster from the surface. In this case, the wall needs to be well soaked, for which ordinary water is used. A tool such as a spatula will help you with this. If the solution was not made of clay, but with the addition of cement, you will need to use a hammer and chisel. Next comes the cleaning with an iron brush or grinder. The surface is treated with a spray gun, the seams are cleaned to a depth of 10 cm.

After drying, the surface is well primed and left to dry completely. Experts recommend not to spare the primer and apply it in several layers. Immediately before laying the tiles, the walls are checked with a building level and a plumb line for straightness. If differences are found, they will have to be leveled. This is followed by the placement of metal beacons. If knocked down corners are found when removing old plaster, they need to be strengthened by reinforcing with perforated metal corners. It is advised to fix the reinforcing fiberglass mesh on the set plaster layer - on a thin layer of glue. After drying, another layer of mesh is made.

If you plan to install tiles on glue, then it is better to cover the plastered dry surface with a primer again.

When the installation of the finishing material is carried out on a metal frame, the fasteners of which are made on the old one, there is a high probability that the entire structure will be able to move away from the wall surface. Preparing for decorative trim includes the purchase of tools and materials necessary for the work.

Video “Do-it-yourself finishing”

From the video you will learn how to make the facing of the Russian stove.

Tools for the job

Self-finishing brick oven carried out using a spatula. The height of its teeth should be no more than 6 mm. Such a tool will allow you to qualitatively apply and evenly distribute any type of glue over the surface. You should also stock up on the usual straight spatula of medium size (to clean the surface), angled and rubber. The latter is needed for sealing seams.

You also need to purchase a high-quality grinder and tile cutter, a building level, a marker or a simple pencil (to make markings), a metal ruler, a glue bowl, a mixer nozzle and an electric drill, which will allow you to place the adhesive mass well. If the lining of the furnace will be carried out according to a special technology - without the use of glue - you should also prepare metal scissors, a wooden or rubber hammer, a bending jig for making corners. As well as rivets, a riveter, a drill and a set of drills designed to perform metal work.

Materials for preparatory and finishing works

Among the materials that will be needed for self-lining the stove, one can name glue designed for lining fireplaces and stoves with heat-resistant properties, primer, plinth, grout for joints between tiles. Such a list is relevant when you are going to lay any type of tile on glue.

If a so-called “dry” installation is expected without it, then it is required to purchase galvanized steel sheet, the thickness of which does not exceed 0.6 - 0.9 mm, a steel or aluminum corner in order to close the corners, aluminum strips. The latter are required for the manufacture of the frame, should have a width of 20 mm and a thickness of about 2 mm.

Tile adhesive

If many years ago you had to make your own mortar for laying tiles, today you do not need to accurately calculate the proportions of its components. Indeed, in the building materials market there is ready-made glue, which can be used to make high-quality lining of a brick oven. For example, Diola's glue is designed for lining all types of stoves and fireplaces with ceramic and tiled tiles. The package contains 25 kg of the composition, which in ready-made on the surface exhibits heat-resistant qualities and can withstand temperature regime up to +850 degrees.

Professional craftsmen often choose a cement mortar in which components such as salt or PVA glue are added by the manufacturer. You can independently add a small amount of ordinary table salt to the purchased masonry glue, which is available in the kitchen of any housewife. This component will allow you to accumulate the available water. Then the adhesive composition, concrete or clay will not dry out. Those who have practical experience in the field of construction consider it not superfluous to independently add salt to any purchased composition, which allows you to end up with an excellent result.

How to cut tiles

Before the lining of the furnace is carried out, it is necessary to cut the material correctly. In order not to spoil a lot of pieces of tiles and to make its high-quality cutting, you need to do everything carefully. Having performed such a procedure once, which, along with the plastering of the surface, the acquisition of materials and tools, can be safely attributed to the preparatory work, in the future you will gain valuable skills. For cutting, you need a special machine - a tile cutter.

The first step is to measure the required distance on each piece and mark it with a marker and a ruler. Next, the material is attached to the unit so that the marking line is under the cutting roller.

After lowering the lever, the tile breaks into pieces. For best conduct such manipulations, the roller and the guide frame must be lubricated with machine oil. To avoid a curved cut of the material, it is necessary to check how correctly the roller is fixed, whether it dangles. When you are dealing with a tile cutter that has been used repeatedly, the roller may need to be replaced. It is not difficult to do this, since it is really possible to buy a new one in stores that sell tiles.

A simpler cutting device is a manual tile cutter in the form of wire cutters. It is unlikely to be suitable for very thick floor tiles, but can be used for wall material. Some craftsmen use the electric jigsaw available on the farm, on which they put a tungsten carbide file. But when choosing this method, it will take at least 10 minutes to cut each piece (whereas on a tile cutter, this procedure takes only 1 minute).

Another option, how to carry out self-cutting, is to use a grinder with a special circle. Some experienced people in this business even manage with an ordinary glass cutter. It is important here to carefully break the tile into pieces after preliminary marking. But, for lack of practical experience, it is better to abandon the latter method. Because otherwise, there is a high probability of injuring the hand.

Of course, the most reliable way is to use a large tile cutter that needs to be installed on the floor or reliable table. If you were unable to get a perfectly even edge of the cut material, you need to grind it using a special stone.

How to glue tiles

To independently carry out the laying of the material, you need to follow some rules. For example, laying should start from the bottom. The line for the first row is preliminarily beaten off and markings are made, which is impossible without a colored cord. It is placed horizontally, pulled back, and then released. According to the imprint, you can carry out a reliable fastener of a perforated metal corner. It is attached to the surface with dowels, between which a distance of 150 - 200 mm is left. The size of the corner should ideally correspond to the thickness of the tile.

Perforated corners are also fixed at the corners to beautifully decorate the corner joint. After preparing the wall and tiles, you can begin to prepare the adhesive solution. It is kneaded with an electric drill and a mixer nozzle in a container of a suitable size. After waiting at least 10 minutes, it is permissible to start laying the first row. To do this, the glue is applied with a spatula to an area designed for 5 to 7 pieces. Crosses are placed between the laid tiles in horizontal and vertical seams. They allow you to maintain the same thickness of the seams and are often installed 2 pieces on each side of the material. Sometimes, instead of crosses, they take pieces of drywall, for example, when large gaps must be left when facing.

How evenly the laying takes place will help control the building level. Later, the seam space is rubbed with a special grout. After laying out 4 - 5 rows, it is recommended to take a break from work for a couple of hours. Next, the masonry is completed, which is allowed to dry from 24 to 36 hours. Only grouts are suitable for the oven, the heat resistance of which is above +200 degrees. Modern compositions allow you to choose them according to the color of the material. Adhesive particles that have fallen on the surface of the tile are best removed immediately.

Cladding without glue

Carrying out laying work without glue is good because such a cladding has whole line undeniable merit. It will not react to temperature changes, and hot air will perfectly linger in the air cushion formed between the tile and the wall. When laying in a “dry” way, it is important to make accurate measurements and make frame elements. The design will consist of a frame made of metal profiles into which the material is laid. First, the wall of the furnace is marked along the upper and lower parts.

Then the space obtained inside is divided by horizontal lines, the size of which is 3 - 4 mm. They will be fastened between tile profiles. The lines are beaten off with a cord dyed with blue. The plinth will be attached to the surface of the walls and floor. It is made from galvanized metal sheets or bought ready made. To make a plinth with your own hands, you need to cut off a strip equal to the height of the plinth plus 15 - 20 mm. The sheet of metal should not be thicker than 1 - 1 mm. To make a fold that will go to the floor, the strip is placed on a metal table or fixture. The workpiece is fixed, leaving the outer protrusion no more than 15 - 20 mm. You need to tap on it with a mallet.

Fastening of the finished plinth is carried out by means of anchor fasteners. Then cut off a part of the corner, which will be installed along the top marking line. It will hold vertically arranged elements on the surface. Metal strips are attached through the already installed perforated corners. They must pass vertically, between them they must maintain a distance of 250 - 300 mm. Their role is in the installation of load-bearing profiles.

For the manufacture of profiles, in which the tiles will then be included, strips are cut with a width of about 44 mm and a length that is equal to the width of the wall. They require sheets of galvanized metal. Production is carried out using a device - a sheet bender from a bar with a metal plate. The strip of the future profile is laid on the edge of the device with a mandatory protrusion outward at a distance of about 3 mm. The workpiece at the final stage is fixed with clamps and bent with a mallet.

Tiles in a properly made profile should move easily inside. Competent installation of profiles is carried out from the plinth. After the frame is mounted for several rows, the material is installed in them. Next, the joints at the corners are closed. Corners should be placed around the cooking chamber. The rounded overlays are mounted on external corners. To carry out this type of work, self-tapping screws are needed. The lining of the walls of the cooking chamber inside is carried out with sheets of stainless steel. To enhance the effect, the surface can be coated with a special black paint that has heat-resistant characteristics.

Dmitry Ivanovich

The reconstruction of an old furnace or the creation of a new one is always accompanied finishing work. The appearance of the hearth should primarily consist of safe materials that are suitable for lining furnaces. And only after that fit into the interior.

Finishing a home oven

When thinking about how to overlay the stove, only a few prefer to overlay it with tiles. This is a painstaking process that needs some skill and precision. Of course, it is easier to plaster, and then whitewash and forget. Only the aesthetic perception of such a design did not lie next to the originality of the hearth lined with tiles. An individual approach, even to simple, at first glance, materials, will help to fit the structure into the interior as comfortably as possible, emphasizing its individuality and significance.

Moreover, if the stove is properly tiled with tiles, it will last for several decades.

In the case of tiling, the plaster acts as the main protective layer, which does not allow the ordering seams to disperse. Everyone knows that combustion products will enter the room through such cracks during the operation of the hearth, which is not good in every sense.

The tile has high level heat capacity, therefore, heating itself, transfers maximum heat to the room, which increases the efficiency of the building, as an element of heating the monastery. Even after a while after the oven is no longer working, the tiles are still warm.

Not so long ago, the tiles on the stove were laid exclusively on the mortar. New, more modern methods allow, without much harm to the main structure of the hearth, to replace the facing coating. It is also convenient in that it is easy to return one or more missing elements to their place, without redoing the entire finishing coating.

Preparation

You still decided to tile your stove. In this case, it does not matter where the structure is located: in the living room, in the kitchen or in the bath, because the tile remains the actual material. The only question is safety. Do not forget what was mentioned earlier - the tile heats up, being an excellent conductor of heat.

The surface of the old stove must be carefully treated before restoration work.

To the question "Is it possible to mount tiles on an old surface?" any specialist will answer unequivocally "no". Of course, you can do it in your own way, but the work will not stand idle for long, if at all it will be possible to bring the plan to mind. In order not to fall off the facing tiles, you will have to do everything according to the rules of the technology for laying this material on the old hearth, and here without stripping old surface not enough.

The sequence of measures to prepare the old furnace for tiling:

Remove old plaster. To make it easier, wet the surface and wait a while. The clay coating is easily cleaned with a spatula. If the solution was created with such a component as cement, you can’t do without a chisel and a hammer. You need to clean everything, to the "bare" brick.
The brick is processed with a metal brush or grinder with a special nozzle of a similar type.
Then the surface must be sprayed with water so that the seams between the bricks are soaked and slightly damp. They will need to be cleaned to a depth of 10 mm.
The new masonry of the furnace is well dried before further work, but it also needs to be cleaned from the remnants of the solution.
Next comes the primer. Pay Special attention for impregnation of cleaned joints between bricks. After that, wait until it dries completely and repeat the application of the substance again. At the time of purchase, it is better to consult with the seller in order to choose the right primer.
Check with a building level and a plumb line how smooth the structure is. This is important because the tile will not fit well on a curved floor. It will only emphasize the differences and demonstrate all the shortcomings of the structure.
Align curved areas with a metal beacon profile. The optimal minimum height of the leveling layer is at least 10 mm. The leveling process itself is carried out with plaster, specially made for finishing the hearths. A thin layer is leveled with a wide spatula, and a thick one is spread with a substance and leveled with a large rule, focusing on the installed beacons. Their evenness is also checked by level and plumb.
Knocked down corners of the old furnace are reinforced with metal corners before applying the protective layer.
After the plaster has set, place a fiberglass reinforcing mesh on the glue. As everything dries, cover everything again with glue and wait for it to dry completely. If you attach the mesh without glue, you need to use nails with very wide hats. He is driven between the rows.
If you will be laying tiles on glue, it is better to prime the entire surface of the hearth again before that. Thus, adhesion will increase, therefore, the tile will last longer.