How to finish the oven: plaster, tiling and stone. Safety and beauty: how to finish a sauna stove with decorative materials Finishing a brick stove in a bath

During the kindling of the bath, the surface of the furnace is heated up to 300-400°C. At the same time, it begins to emit infrared rays and itself becomes a source of heating. The running heat is distributed throughout the steam room, but first of all it hits the walls adjacent to the stove. If the walls are wooden, then under the influence of high temperatures, their charring begins. And there is already close to the fire! The only one for real effective method insulation of wooden walls from heat - the creation of protective screens and casings from non-combustible materials in the bath.

When is protection needed?

The need for installation protective skins and screens do not always appear. If a fireproof distance is maintained between the stove and the nearest combustible surface, additional protection is not needed. At this distance, the IR rays scatter, weaken, and the amount that the wooden wall receives can no longer damage it.

It is believed that the safe distance from the wall to the brick oven (laying in a quarter of a brick) is at least 0.32 m, from the wall to (not lined) - at least 1 m. metal furnace, lined from the inside with brick or fireclay, the distance is reduced to 0.7 m.

Thus, compliance with fire distances is more possible in large baths, where the issue of saving space is not relevant. In family steam rooms, where every centimeter of space counts, installing a stove 0.3-1 m from the nearest walls is impractical. In this case, the safety distances established according to the norms must be reduced with the help of screens and skins.

Protective screens near (around) the furnace

Protective screens are insulation shields that cover side surfaces ovens and reduce the intensity of thermal radiation. Screens are metal and brick. As a rule, they are used for metal furnaces.

Method #1 - metal screens

The most common protective screens are factory-made steel or cast iron sheets. They are installed around the furnace, at a distance of 1-5 cm from the walls of the firebox. Depending on the need to insulate one or another side of the furnace, you can purchase side or front (front) screens. Many metal furnaces are initially made with protective screens in the form protective cover.

Protective screens allow you to reduce the temperature of external metal surfaces up to 80-100°C and, accordingly, reduce the fireproof distance to 50 cm. The total distance from the firebox to the wall (together with a gap of 1-5 cm) will be 51-55 cm.

Installing protective screens is not difficult. Due to the presence of legs, metal shields are easily attached to the floor with bolts.

Method #2 - brick screens

A brick screen can cover all the side surfaces of a metal furnace, representing its outer skin. Then the stove will be in a masonry casing. In another case, a brick screen is a wall that separates the furnace and the flammable surface.

For laying a protective screen, a full-bodied fireclay brick is used. The binder is cement or clay mortar. It is recommended to lay in half-brick (thickness 120 mm). But, with a lack of material, it is possible to allow the wall to be made a quarter of a brick (60 mm thick), although in this case the heat-insulating properties of the screen will be reduced by half.

Small holes are left in the lower part of the shield (sometimes with furnace doors) for air convection between brick wall and a stove.

Brick walls of the screen must end at least 20 cm above the top surface of the furnace. Sometimes laying is carried out to the very ceiling.

The brick screen is installed not close to the walls of the furnace, the optimal distance is 5-15 cm. The acceptable distance from the brickwork to the flammable wall is 5-15 cm. Thus, the use of a brick screen allows you to reduce the distance from the furnace to wooden wall up to 22-42 cm (oven - ventilation gap 5-15 cm - brick 12 cm - ventilation gap 5-15 cm - wall).

Protective non-combustible cladding for walls

The walls adjacent to the red-hot walls of the furnace are subject to spontaneous combustion. To prevent their overheating, special skins are used, consisting of heat-insulating and non-combustible materials.

Option #1 - reflective skins

Sheathings consisting of a combination of non-combustible thermal insulation and metal sheets are effective. At the same time, thermal insulation is attached to the wooden surface, which is covered from above with a stainless steel sheet. Some use galvanizing for these purposes, but, according to some reports, when heated, it can release harmful substances. It is better not to take risks and purchase a stainless steel sheet.

For greater efficiency the metal sheet of the screen should be well polished. Mirror surface contributes to the reflection of heat rays from wooden surface and, accordingly, prevents its heating. In addition, a stainless steel sheet, directing infrared rays back into the steam room, turns hard radiation into softer, better perceived by a person.

As thermal insulation for stainless steel, you can fix:

• Basalt wool - it has high thermal insulation properties, absolutely safe when used in the bath. Possesses the increased hygroscopicity, does not burn.
• Basalt cardboard - thin sheets of basalt fiber. It is used as fireproof, sound and heat insulating material.
• Asbestos cardboard is a sheet refractory heat insulator. It has high strength and durability, protects flammable surfaces from ignition.
• Minerite - non-combustible sheets (plates), specially made for shielding stoves, fireplaces, flammable surfaces in baths and saunas.

A popular example of sheathing using a metal sheet is such a “pie”: wall - ventilation gap (2-3 cm) - insulation (1-2 cm) - stainless steel sheet. The distance from the wooden wall to the stove is at least 38 cm (SNiP 41-01-2003).

Ceramic bushings are used to fasten the sheathing to the wall. They do not heat up and allow you to form ventilation gaps between the thermal insulation and the wall.

If the distance between the wooden wall and the stove is minimal, then the sheathing is made of two layers of refractory insulation, for example, mineralite. In this case, the sheets are fixed through ceramic bushings with a gap of 2-3 cm. The top sheet is covered with stainless steel.

Option #2 - sheathing with cladding

Of course, protective sheathing with stainless steel perfectly protects wooden walls from heat and fire. But it can spoil the impression of the most expensive finish. Therefore, if the steam room is designed in a decorative style, the refractory lining is masked with heat-resistant tiles. The tile is laid on heat-resistant glue, for example, produced by Terracotta.

The best materials for wall cladding near the stove:

• Terracotta tiles - made of fired clay. Differs in durability, heat resistance, durability. Terracotta tiles can be matte or glazed (majolica) and range in color from pastel yellow to brick red.
• Clinker tiles - also made of clay, outwardly similar to facing bricks. Unlike terracotta, clinker tiles are denser. The color scheme covers almost all colors, ranging from white to black, including greens and blues that are unusual for clay.
• Tiles are a type of ceramic tile. It usually has an embossing in the form of a pattern or ornament on the front surface.
• Porcelain stoneware is a heat-resistant, durable tile. Depending on the method of processing the front surface, the tile can imitate natural stone, brick, wood. In the color scheme - all natural shades, from white to black.
• Talcochlorite is a grayish or greenish rock. Possesses fire resistance, water resistance, durability.

Fixing refractory tiles directly to the walls will not have the effect of thermal insulation. The wall will still heat up, which is fraught with spontaneous combustion. Therefore, the tile is used only as an element of the protective "pie" of the following design: wall - ventilation gap (2-3 cm) - refractory sheet material - tile. It is recommended to maintain a minimum of 15-20 cm from the tiles to the walls of the furnace.

Any material from this list can be used as a refractory element in sheathing:

• Refractory drywall (GKLO) - drywall, supplemented with fiberglass fibers. Resists thermal effects without structural deformations.
• Minerite is a cement-fiber board, absolutely non-combustible. Minerite plates are moisture resistant, do not rot, do not decompose.
• Glass-magnesium sheet (SML) - a material in the form of plates, made on the basis of magnesia binder and fiberglass. It has heat and sound insulation properties, does not collapse under the influence of water and temperature changes.

The protective sheathing with the obligatory observance of the ventilation gap has a very low coefficient of heat absorption, so the wall under it practically does not heat up. In addition, the use of lining allows you to mask the protective "pie" to withstand the finishing of the steam room in the same style.

Since ancient times people used the bath to cleanse the body and soul. The bath has always been used not only for purely hygienic purposes, but also made it possible to relax with friends and relax after a hard day's work.

The fate of any bath structure directly depends on how correctly it is mounted steam room stove. It is not entirely comfortable to be in a slightly heated room of the bath, and in a too overheated room it is sometimes even dangerous for health. The role of the stove in the bath is no less important than heating the living space in the house. The effectiveness of all bath procedures depends entirely on how quickly the stove can heat up and how long it can keep warm.

Proper use of a metal furnace

Modern bath stoves are often made of metal structures, which are compact, warm up quickly and have a relatively low cost. The efficiency of a metal stove sometimes reaches 85%, which is much higher than that of the standard brick or stone stove we are used to. The problems that arise, which include rapid cooling and the possibility of getting burned, are eliminated by lining the metal furnace with bricks.

For a long time, the standard for completing a steam room in a bath room has become iron oven, the use of which has long been considered a favorite option for many bath owners. Compared with other types, a metal stove has a number of advantages:

• It is easy to do it yourself. Installation and maintenance of this design is not particularly difficult. Even overlaying an iron stove in a bathhouse with a brick is on the shoulder of a home master.
• The metal furnace is easily melted, quickly gains a high temperature in the furnace, which makes it possible to rationally use heating oil with good traction.

True, there are several drawbacks that force the owner to install an iron firebox away from water and benches. High heat output and good performance of the stove quickly heat up the washing room of the bath, while the stones for the formation of steam heat up much slower than the air in the steam room. This happens due to increased heat radiation through the metal walls.

Even if the stove was purchased in ready-made in the store and has a beautiful appearance, its performance and efficiency is better to increase due to the device stone or brick apron around it. And also people who are in the immediate vicinity of such a place will feel more comfortable and safer. metal structure. The iron stove for a bath must meet the following parameters:

In addition, one must strictly consider location of the metal stove. It must be mounted at a distance of at least 15 cm from the wooden panels. Small, but frequent loads of furnace material are the best option heating the bath using a metal furnace.

Reasons for lining the sauna stove with bricks

These shortcomings are easily eliminated by lining the metal stove with bricks. According to many owners, it is the use of a metal factory stove with a home-made brick lining that is the golden mean in arranging an excellent steam room for a bath.

Brick for lining a metal furnace in a bath

The question of how to brick an iron stove in a bathhouse should be studied and decided first of all. Considering the large temperature loads on the design of a metal furnace, ordinary building bricks are not suitable for lining it. It is necessary to use a facing material that has high refractory properties. Distinguish several types of refractory bricks:

• fireclay. Such a brick is made from fireclay clay with the addition of quartz coarse sand, graphite powder or coke. The presence and amount of these impurities regulate the refractoriness and other properties of the material. Fireclay bricks are widely used for lining both domestic and industrial ovens. Brick is used in industry ultimate fire resistance(+1750℃). For the construction of household stoves, this material is used quite rarely, due to its high cost.
• Dinas. This type of brick is made from silicon powder diluted in milk of lime. At its core, it is silica. Compared with fireclay bricks, this material has higher fire resistance and mechanical strength. But its main drawback is poor resistance to temperature fluctuations. Therefore, it has received wider application in the construction of industrial furnaces, where there is a high but constant temperature. But the idea of ​​​​using it in bath stoves is considered very unsuccessful.
• Talc. The trump cards of this material can be considered a pleasant appearance and its good fire resistance. This material is produced from natural talc slate, by cutting bricks from natural stone. Due to insufficiently high fire resistance, soapstone bricks are used mainly for facing works.
• Clinker. This brick is ideal for lining furnaces, in case of loose contact with hot metal.

Refractory products are produced both in the form of smooth bricks and shaped products. Moreover, various shaped products give the heater even greater aesthetics. Various types of refractory bricks can be ordered on the construction Internet portal, while you can first familiarize yourself with technical specifications material.

Brick lining of the sauna stove

Before overlaying an iron stove in a bath with a brick, it is necessary to carefully examine and study the foundation and base of the metal structure.

The difficulty in facing the furnace with bricks is the solution of several problems:

• The construction of the brick cladding will have a lot of weight, so a foundation will definitely be required. In the event that a metal furnace was installed on a layer of heat insulator and does not have a stone base under it, the reconstruction of furnace equipment must begin with the manufacture of the foundation base.
• For the construction of the foundation, it is imperative to consider the issue of laying a good layer of heat-insulating material, which will be designed to reduce heat loss from the furnace, directly into the foundation and soil.
• The design of the metal firebox must have good stability and strength. Periodic change of modes of heating and cooling of the furnace equipment should not lead to pouring out of the solution from the joints.

Methods for lining an iron stove in a bath

Relying on the fact that the brick lining mainly serves as a thermal screen for the metal structure and does not absorb the main heat from the furnace, there is many cladding options, more details about which can be found on many construction portals on the Internet. The main cladding options are:

The choice of cladding scheme depends mainly on the functional need of the cladding. If the work is done to solve decorative purposes, then it is made as thick as a whole brick. If the stove is recognized to perform the function of a water heater, then the finish is made in half a brick. It is very important to correctly calculate the gap between the body of the metal stove and the brick screen. It is not very difficult to do this. You need to add 2 cm to the standard 3 cm for each kilowatt of power. And if the stove power exceeds 12 kilowatts, you need to make a maximum gap of 15–20 cm.

Iron stoves in the bath

The process of lining a metal furnace with bricks

The whole process of lining an iron stove can be divided into several stages.

Stage 1 Foundation

The most important stage of any construction is foundation device. The durability and strength of the entire structure depends on the quality of its installation. If during the initial construction, a foundation was made for the stove, then in order to enclose a metal firebox, a new foundation will not be required. But if you are unsure of the strength of the old foundation, you need to spend time and build a new foundation, as the weight of the entire structure will increase significantly. With a total mass of the entire structure of less than 700 kg, the foundation can be omitted.

The order of the foundation device:

• After the issue of the installation site of the furnace has been resolved, it is necessary to cut out the floorboards along the perimeter of the structure, given that the size of the foundation should be 10–15 cm larger on each side.
• Next, you need to dig a pit up to 40 cm deep.
• Then it is necessary to build a wooden formwork according to the size of the pit and the planned structure.
• The next step is to waterproof the foundation.
• Then we pour a pillow of sand and crushed stone of the middle fraction, in order to be able to retain moisture.
• We fill cement mortar foundation and be sure to lay a layer of reinforcing mesh on top. Checking building level evenness of the surface.
• Then you need to wait for the time concrete screed completely frozen.

Stage 2 Foundation device

Step 3 Solution preparation

A mixture of cement and clay will serve as an ideal solution for brick lining a metal firebox. Experienced stove-makers advise the proportion of these components to be determined by appearance. It is believed that it is necessary to take the same amount of cement and clay, while adding to the solution up to 30% river sand.

The main thing, when preparing the solution, is to achieve a homogeneous mass, without pebbles and lumps, resembling thick sour cream in appearance. To check the quality of the prepared masonry mortar, you need to apply a little mixture to the brick. A high-quality mortar should not flow and slide off the brick. If the mixture is not very thick, then you can add a small amount of sand.

Stage 4 Brick preparation

To complete this stage of work, it is necessary, the selected number of bricks for masonry, soak it in water for 12 hours. Carrying out this action is required so that the brick does not absorb moisture from the mortar during laying. When using old brick, it must be cleaned of sand and old mortar.

Stage 5 How to line a metal furnace

The average size of the structure in height will occupy 13–15 rows of masonry. Therefore, it is desirable to divide the whole process of work into two stages. First you need to lay 7-8 rows and let them dry. The next day, after checking the shrinkage, we lay the remaining section of the structure.

Brick finishing process:

Stage 6 Pre-fired furnace

An important stage is the preparation of the fabricated structure for its further operation. Do not immediately heat the oven to the maximum temperature. Need to be done 2-3 pre-fireboxes, in which it is used minimal amount fuel. Such actions will allow the solution to dry well. Remember that there are a large number of schemes and methods for bricking a metal furnace, which can be found in detail on many construction Internet portals.

Facing the stove in the bath is not so much a decor as an important safety measure. Properly selected material will create comfort in the steam room and provide long-term warmth.

And the lining process depends not only on its version, but also on the type of stove that is installed in the bath. All these nuances will be discussed in this article.

You will also be presented with a video on the topic: "Facing stove stoves for a bath."

Metal stoves for a bath are quite popular among the people, although this option cannot be called the best. Their popularity is due to two criteria: an affordable price, as well as the ability to purchase a finished oven, and quickly install it with your own hands.

• In addition, the metal stove heats up quickly enough, it is more compact, which is important for a small steam room. It also cannot do without flaws: the metal does not just heat up, but heats up. Too high heat transfer leads to the same rapid cooling - the furnace has to be heated again and again.

Strong radiation from a metal surface is both uncomfortable and not useful for a person. Moreover, so high temperatures significantly increase the likelihood of fire - after all, the bath is most often wooden. So, wherever you throw, everywhere is a wedge. We have to solve the issue with the lining of the furnace, and better than brick it's hard to come up with anything.

Refractory bricks for construction and lining of furnaces

Naturally, ordinary building bricks are not used for lining furnaces; for this, refractory bricks are needed. There are several varieties this material because different raw materials are used in its production.

• One of the most popular options is fireclay bricks. It is also made of clay, only of a special grade. It is called fireclay, hence the name of the products. As part of the raw materials for the manufacture of fireclay bricks, there are also additives in the form of graphite or coke powder, or coarse-grained quartz sand.
• With the help of these additives, certain properties are imparted to products, and the degree of their fire resistance is regulated. After all, the temperature indicators of domestic ovens are not comparable with industrial ovens. Therefore, fireclay bricks are divided into three classes - its maximum fire resistance is +1750 degrees. Celsius.

• If fireclay bricks belong to the category of alumina products, then dinas bricks are silica. It is made from a silicon-containing powder, on milk of lime. Dinas brick has a higher mechanical strength, and also has a higher fire resistance.
• But he does not like sudden temperature fluctuations, which are not a problem for fireclay bricks at all. Therefore, it is more often used for the construction of industrial furnaces, in which uniform long-term heating is maintained.
• It is impossible not to say about the talc brick, which is not only an excellent refractory material, but also has an excellent appearance. It is made from a natural mineral called talcum shale. In fact, it is a natural stone, sawn into even bricks.

• Talcum brick also undergoes a firing procedure, while acquiring certain properties. The level of its fire resistance is lower than that of fireclay bricks, therefore, it is not used for the construction of furnaces. But for facing heated surfaces, this material fits perfectly, as you can see by looking at the photo above.
• In principle, clinker bricks are also suitable for finishing a metal furnace, because the lining does not adjoin closely to the hot metal. The clinker has sufficient strength, and according to the current standard, can be used for outer cladding stoves and chimneys.

Some customers, in order to save money, purchase ordinary clay bricks for this purpose. But we must say right away that such a lining will be less durable.

As a result of repeated heating and cooling cycles, a simple brick cracks and crumbles.

Cladding process

A brick "shirt" will create the very comfort and safety that a metal stove lacks. The brick heats up slowly and cools down just as slowly, so the room will be warm even when the stove goes out.

As a heat insulator for the structure, asbestos or basalt cardboard is used:

• We told about which brick to use, it remains to be added that the mortar for masonry chemical composition should be close to the brick. When buying a brick, you will probably be offered a dry masonry mix. You will only have to dilute it with water before use, as the manufacturer's instructions prescribe.
• It is very important to sort the bricks before starting laying, there should not be any defects in the form of cracks and broken edges and corners on their surface. It is advisable to lay them out on the floor beforehand, and fit them to each other so that the pokes touch almost without a gap. When laying bricks on mortar, the same procedure must be followed.

• The smaller the thickness of the joints in the masonry, the better the thermal conductivity will be provided by the cladding. By the way, refractory bricks can be not only smooth, but also shaped. So, you can not only line the oven, but also decorate it beautifully, as is done in the example above.
• As with brick finishing at home, here the masonry must also rest on a rigid base - which means that the stove must be installed on the foundation. Its dimensions should take into account the gap between the walls of the furnace and the masonry of 3-5 cm, and, of course, the width of the brick. The gap may be slightly larger, but this will increase the heating time of the cladding.
• The foundation must be calculated so that the number of bricks in the lining is integer. It can be laid out of brick, or expanded clay concrete blocks, or, having installed formwork, pour a monolithic base. After the concrete has gained strength, a furnace is installed and strengthened on it, and then they begin marking for masonry.

• The technology of bricklaying, as such, is no different from that used in the construction of walls - every fourth row of masonry is also reinforced with a steel strip or wire. The only thing is that in the second and penultimate row you need to leave vents 12 cm wide (half a brick). The opening for the firebox must be strengthened with a metal corner.

Apart from the time spent on arranging the foundation and installing the furnace, all the work will take no more than three days, and an experienced craftsman can manage it in a day. There are no special difficulties here, the main thing is to use high-quality materials.

How to line a brick oven

For those who are building or already have a spacious sauna with a good ceiling height, the best stove option is a heater.

It, of course, is more expensive, and it takes up more space, but it can be used to heat not only the steam room, but also other departments: a washing room, a rest room, a dressing room (see How the dressing room is finished). And the quality of the steam will also be completely different.

• The stove-heater is built of brick. Such walls are an excellent basis for many types of cladding. In this case, it does not make much sense to use a brick, except that the stove is old and requires a major upgrade. But the tile for facing the sauna stove of this type is what you need.

• There are many types of tiles with high refractory properties that can be used for cladding. This is majolica, and terracotta, and clinker tiles - even porcelain stoneware is suitable (see Furnace lining with porcelain stoneware: finishing steps). Their cost decreases as we list the types of tiles, and depends not only on the country of origin, but also on the complexity of the decor of the front surface.
• In addition, natural stone can also be used for cladding. Volcanic rocks: talcomagnesite and talcochlorite, are not afraid of any temperature, and keep warm for the whole day. These rocks have a great appearance - there are options in the form of tiles, there are in the form of bricks.

Such a lining will look worthy not only in the bath, but also in the house. Its cost, of course, is much higher.

If the most expensive majolica tile costs about 2600 rubles/m2, then soapstone tiles will cost no less than 3500 rubles/m2. But here, everyone decides for himself, according to the size of his budget. Next, we will briefly describe how tiling of bath stoves is made.

Finishing the walls of the stove

The tile laying mortar can, and even should, be mixed from a factory-prepared dry refractory mix - at least if the furnace has only one circuit. The requirements for lining a double-circuit furnace are not so strict, since its surface warms up more evenly and does not heat up so much.

• In this case, you can use ordinary tile adhesive, or use oven clay and sand. Clay is sold in construction stores, packing from three to five kilograms. The method of making the solution is on the package.
• If you take ordinary clay from a quarry, you will have to determine its fat content, soak it to soften it, knead it with sand for a long time and probe the solution with your hands in search of lumps, strain through a sieve. All this is quite labor intensive. Therefore, buying clay in its original packaging is much easier.
• Facing bath stoves with tiles is made on a reinforcing layer - this is a thin plaster mesh made of fiberglass. It is pulled along the contour of the furnace, secured with nails hammered into the seams of the brickwork. To ensure a temperature gap, the mesh should not be stretched too tightly, and the seams between the tiles should be made larger than usual.

• In order for the thickness of the seam to be within 5 mm, it is necessary to use not crosses, but wedges of the appropriate thickness. No wedges - make them yourself: from pieces of plastic, plywood, cardboard, thin asbestos-cement sheet. Otherwise, the tile laying technology is no different from that used in wall decoration.
• The solution is applied to the back of the tile with a notched trowel. Then it is pressed against the surface of the brick wall, tapping with a rubber mallet to expel excess mortar. They are collected with a smooth spatula, the surface is immediately wiped, and left for a day until the adhesive layer is completely set.

In conclusion, it remains only to clean the seams and seal them with decorative grout, which, by the way, must also be fire resistant.

If you don’t skimp on buying good tiles and installing them correctly, the appearance of your stove can be no worse than in the picture above.

What is the best way to finish the wall in the sauna behind a wood-burning stove? Stove metal welded, metal 4 mm thick. From the stove to the wall about 20-25cm. The better to finish the wall so that the lining does not char and catch fire. Are soapstone or serpentine slabs suitable? And can they be glued directly to the lining?

You're right. For the safe operation of a metal stove, the distance you specified (20-25 cm) to the wooden surface of the wall is not enough. Metal furnaces are characterized by active thermal radiation, at peak moments of the furnace turning red from heating. The wooden surface of the wall, or the ceiling partition, heating up to 100 ̊С, is guaranteed to ignite. This is especially true of the wood in the steam room, where it is constantly dried to the minimum moisture content.

One of ideal options for a metal furnace in the bath is shown in the photo. The stove is partially covered with bricks on three sides, which allows additional heat storage. Also on the wall is a screen made of fireproof material. It can be a layer of basalt cardboard or cotton wool, with a galvanized sheet on top of it.

Double wall protection

It is better to connect the heat-insulating material of the screen with “grooves”.

Alignment of thermal insulation joints

Talcochlorite is an excellent decorative material. It is most often used for lining stoves and fireplaces, and sometimes even for laying stoves. Its main pluses in our case become minuses. This material perfectly accumulates and transfers heat, as evidenced by the heating of the surface on which it is installed. Therefore, if your choice fell on this stone, we can offer to replace part of the wall (or flammable inner lining) brick. It can even be decorative. And on this site it is already possible to lay soapstone tiles on heat-resistant glue for lining stoves and fireplaces.

The same recommendations apply to coil products. In high-quality performance, this protection option will not only look harmonious and be the highlight of the sauna, but also provide you with almost 100% fire safety.

Soapstone variant

Easy and safe steam for you!

• How to finish the wall behind the stove in the sauna: cladding options

  
  What material is better to use for finishing the wall behind the wood-burning stove in the sauna, so that the lining does not char and catch fire. Facing the sauna stove and walls

Protecting the walls in the bath from oven heat: how to make a protective screen or sheathing

When you melt the bath for taking procedures, the surface of the stove can heat up to 300-400 degrees. In the process, it emits infrared rays and itself becomes a source of heat. The radiated heat is distributed throughout the steam room, but first of all it touches the walls, which are located near the wall. If the walls in your steam room are made of wood, the heat will cause them to char. And this can cause fire and fire. Despite how advertised different means to protect the tree and other options for eliminating this problem, most effective method insulation was and remains the arrangement of a protective screen and sheathing made of non-flammable materials.

In what situations do you need wall protection?

There are situations when protection of the walls near the stove is not needed. For example, if there is a safe distance between the stove and the closest surface in terms of fire regulations. This distance should be enough to scatter the infrared rays so that they weaken, and their amount does not damage the wall.

fireproof distance from the metal stove to the walls of the bath

The distance from the wall is considered safe:

• to a brick oven (with a laying of ¼ bricks) - not less than 0.32 m;
• to an unlined metal furnace - at least 1 m.
• to a metal furnace lined inside with brick or fireclay - not less than 0.7 m.

Such a safe, fire-prevention distance can basically be arranged only in steam rooms with impressive parameters. In more miniature family-type steam rooms, when there is a need to save every centimeter, installing a stove at such a distance is not a justified luxury. Therefore, for such small steam rooms it is better to use screens or special cladding to protect the walls.

Protective screen around the oven.

The protective screen is an insulating shield that covers the sides of the oven and reduces the strength of the heat rays. Screens can be made of brick or metal. They are mainly used for metal furnaces.

Option number 1 - a metal screen.

The most commonly used protective screen is made of steel or cast iron sheets, who buy ready. It is mounted around the furnace, stepping back from the walls of the firebox 1-5 cm. There are side and front screens, choose depending on which side of the furnace you need to close. Often manufacturers make ovens already equipped with a screen - casing.

bath wall protection - metal screen

The protective screen makes it possible to reduce the temperature of the outer surfaces of the furnace to 80-100 degrees, thereby reducing the safe distance to 50 cm. As a result, the distance from the firebox to the wall, inclusive with a mounting gap of 1-5 cm, will be 51-55 cm. Install the screen protector is not difficult, it is usually equipped with legs that just need to be bolted to the floor.

Option number 2 - a protective screen made of bricks.

With such a screen, you can close all the side parts of the furnace, thus making the outer skin for it. As a result, the furnace will stand in a brick casing.

Or you can simply separate the oven and the fire-hazardous surface with such a screen.

The material for the screen used as wall protection is solid fireclay brick. For a bunch, take a solution on cement or clay. Masters advise laying in half a brick (thickness 12 cm.) But if you do not have enough material, you can make a screen in ¼ bricks (6 cm), but this will lead to a decrease in the thermal insulation performance of the protective wall by half. And then you need to take into account such changes when calculating the safe distance.

bath wall protection - brick screen

When laying, you need to leave small holes in the lower part (sometimes with furnace doors). They will serve to create air exchange in the space between the stove and the screen.

The height of the brick screen must exceed the height of the stove by at least 20 cm. There are cases when the protective screen is laid out to the ceiling.

They make such a screen not close to the stove - you need to leave 5-15 cm. In order for the wall protection to be reliable, the optimal distance between the screen and the wall should be from 5 to 15 cm. Using a protective brick screen, you can reduce the distance from the stove to the wall to 22- 42 cm (stove + gap 5-15 cm + brick -12 cm + gap 5-15 cm + wall),

Flame retardant wall cladding for protection.

Any wall that is adjacent to a red-hot furnace is not immune from spontaneous combustion. To prevent overheating of the walls, it is advised to use special skins, which consist of heat-insulating and non-combustible materials.

Bath construction

Sheathing, which includes non-combustible thermal insulation and metal sheets, performed well. So on a wooden surface you need to attach a heat-insulating material, and already on top of it a sheet of stainless steel. Someone uses galvanized steel, but there is information that when heated, it can release harmful substances. So it is better to use stainless steel.

To increase the effectiveness of such a skin, you need to polish the sheet of metal well. The specular surface will improve the reflection of heat rays from the wood and naturally prevent it from heating up. Another plus is that by redirecting the hard IR rays back into the steam room, the stainless metal makes them softer and easier for people to perceive.

reflective wall cladding

Under a sheet of metal, you can install the following material for thermal insulation:

• Basalt wool - it has high thermal insulation and increased hygroscopicity. It is safe even in the extreme conditions of the steam room, and it does not burn.
• Basalt cardboard - basalt fiber in the form of thin sheets. Fireproof, sound and heat insulating material.
• Asbestos cardboard is a refractory heat-insulating material in sheets. It is characterized by excellent strength, durability and the ability to protect surfaces prone to fire from ignition.
• Minerite - non-combustible plates that are made specifically to create screens near stoves, fireplaces and other surfaces in a bath or sauna that can easily catch fire.

Such a cladding scheme is popular:

Wall - ventilation gap 2-3cm. - insulation 1-2 cm. - metal sheet. The safe distance from the oven to the wall will be at least 38 cm.

To fix the sheathing to the wall, ceramic bushings are used. They do not heat up and serve additionally to create a ventilation gap between the wall and the layer of heat-insulating material.

If you did not manage to install the stove at a safe distance, then you need to make a sheathing in two layers of heat-insulating material. In this version, the sheets are fixed through the bushings, maintaining a gap of 2-3 cm, and the top sheet is covered with a metal sheet.

Russian bath project

Reflective cladding is great for protecting wood walls from heat and fire, but it may not always look nice and appropriate in a steam room. If you have a steam room with a certain design or decor, you can mask such a sheathing with heat-resistant tiles. For laying such tiles, you need to use heat-resistant glue.

Wall protection near the stove with cladding can be made of the following materials:

• Terracotta tiles are made from fired clay and have excellent strength, heat resistance and service life. Terracotta can be matte or glazed, ranging from pastel yellow to brick red.
• Clinker tiles - clay tiles, similar to facing bricks. Its structure is denser than that of terracotta. The color may be loved, even white or black, or not at all usual for tiles - blue or green.
• Tiles are a type of ceramic tile. Characteristic- embossing in the form of a pattern or ornament on the front.
• Porcelain stoneware is a tile of increased strength and heat resistance. different way processing front side forms a different surface. Porcelain stoneware can imitate stone, brick or wood. The color palette includes natural shades, from white to black.
• Talcochlorite is a natural mountain stone of a gray or green hue. Distinctive features: fire resistance, water resistance, strength.

protective sheathing with cladding

Using fire resistant tiles for wall cladding will not provide thermal insulation. The walls will get hot anyway. The tile serves as only one component in such a design:

Wall - ventilation gap 2-3 cm. - refractory material in sheets - tiles. The distance from the stove to the tiles should be at least 15-20 cm.

The refractory material can be:

• Fire-resistant drywall (GKLO) - drywall in the composition, which includes fiberglass. Under the influence of heat is not deformed.
• Minerite is a non-combustible cement fiber board. In addition, it is moisture resistant, not subject to decay or decomposition.
• Magnesium glass sheet (SML) – board material, which includes fiberglass and magnesia binder. Such material is famous for its properties for heat and sound insulation, and resistance to temperature extremes and the influence of water.

If the wall protection is made in compliance with all the rules and the organization of the ventilation gap, then such a sheathing will have a low heat absorption rate, and the wall will hardly heat up. In addition, the use of tiles for cladding will mask the protective layer well, and you will not spoil the style and design of the steam room.

Protecting the walls in the bath from oven heat: how to make a protective screen or sheathing

protection of the walls of the bath from the heat of the stove. why is it needed and what is the distance from the walls to the stove is fireproof. Protective screens, protective sheathing and sheathing with cladding

Protecting the walls of the bath from the heat of the furnace: rules for the installation of protective screens and skins

During the kindling of the bath, the surface of the furnace is heated up to 300-400°C. At the same time, it begins to emit infrared rays and itself becomes a source of heating. The running heat is distributed throughout the steam room, but first of all it hits the walls adjacent to the stove. If the walls are wooden, then under the influence of high temperatures, their charring begins. And there is already close to the fire! The only truly effective way to insulate wooden walls from heat is to create protective screens and casings from non-combustible materials in the bath.

When is protection needed?

The need to install protective skins and screens does not always arise. If a fireproof distance is maintained between the stove and the nearest combustible surface, additional protection is not needed. At this distance, the IR rays scatter, weaken, and the amount that the wooden wall receives can no longer damage it.

It is believed that the safe distance from the wall to the brick oven (laying a quarter of a brick) is at least 0.32 m, from the wall to the metal furnace (not lined) - at least 1 m. For a metal furnace lined from the inside with brick or fireclay, the distance decreases to 0.7 m.

Thus, compliance with fire distances is more possible in large baths, where the issue of saving space is not relevant. In family steam rooms, where every centimeter of space counts, installing a stove 0.3-1 m from the nearest walls is impractical. In this case, the safety distances established according to the norms must be reduced with the help of screens and skins.

Protective screens near (around) the furnace

Protective screens are insulation shields that cover the side surfaces of the furnace and reduce the intensity of thermal radiation. Screens are metal and brick. As a rule, they are used for metal furnaces.

Method #1 - metal screens

The most common protective screens are factory-made steel or cast iron sheets. They are installed around the furnace, at a distance of 1-5 cm from the walls of the firebox. Depending on the need to insulate one or another side of the furnace, you can purchase side or front (front) screens. Many metal furnaces are initially made with protective screens in the form of a protective casing.

Protective screens reduce the temperature of external metal surfaces to 80-100°C and, accordingly, reduce the fireproof distance to 50 cm. The total distance from the firebox to the wall (together with a gap of 1-5 cm) will be 51-55 cm.

Installing protective screens is not difficult. Due to the presence of legs, metal shields are easily attached to the floor with bolts.

Method #2 - brick screens

A brick screen can cover all the side surfaces of a metal furnace, representing its outer skin. Then the stove will be in a masonry casing. In another case, a brick screen is a wall that separates the furnace and the flammable surface.

For laying a protective screen, a full-bodied fireclay brick is used. The binder is cement or clay mortar. It is recommended to lay in half-brick (thickness 120 mm). But, with a lack of material, it is possible to allow the wall to be made a quarter of a brick (60 mm thick), although in this case the heat-insulating properties of the screen will be reduced by half.

Small holes are left in the lower part of the shield (sometimes with furnace doors) for air convection between the brick wall and the stove.

Brick walls of the screen must end at least 20 cm above the top surface of the furnace. Sometimes laying is carried out to the very ceiling.

The brick screen is installed not close to the walls of the furnace, the optimal distance is 5-15 cm. The acceptable distance from the brickwork to the flammable wall is 5-15 cm. Thus, the use of a brick screen allows you to reduce the distance from the furnace to the wooden wall to 22-42 cm (oven - ventilation gap 5-15 cm - brick 12 cm - ventilation gap 5-15 cm - wall).

Protective non-combustible cladding for walls

The walls adjacent to the red-hot walls of the furnace are subject to spontaneous combustion. To prevent their overheating, special skins are used, consisting of heat-insulating and non-combustible materials.

Option #1 - reflective skins

Sheathings consisting of a combination of non-combustible thermal insulation and metal sheets are effective. At the same time, thermal insulation is attached to the wooden surface, which is covered from above with a stainless steel sheet. Some use galvanizing for these purposes, but, according to some reports, when heated, it can release harmful substances. It is better not to take risks and purchase a stainless steel sheet.

For greater efficiency, the metal sheet of the screen must be well polished. The mirror surface contributes to the reflection of heat rays from the wooden surface and, accordingly, prevents its heating. In addition, a stainless steel sheet, directing infrared rays back into the steam room, turns hard radiation into softer, better perceived by a person.

As thermal insulation for stainless steel, you can fix:

• Basalt wool - it has high thermal insulation properties, it is absolutely safe when used in a bath. Possesses the increased hygroscopicity, does not burn.
• Basalt cardboard - thin sheets of basalt fiber. It is used as fireproof, sound and heat insulating material.
• Asbestos cardboard is a sheet refractory heat insulator. It has high strength and durability, protects flammable surfaces from ignition.
• Minerite - non-combustible sheets (plates), specially made for shielding stoves, fireplaces, flammable surfaces in baths and saunas.

A popular example of sheathing using a metal sheet is such a “pie”: wall - ventilation gap (2-3 cm) - insulation (1-2 cm) - stainless steel sheet. The distance from the wooden wall to the stove is at least 38 cm (SNiP 41-01-2003).

Ceramic bushings are used to fasten the sheathing to the wall. They do not heat up and allow you to form ventilation gaps between the thermal insulation and the wall.

If the distance between the wooden wall and the stove is minimal, then the sheathing is made of two layers of refractory insulation, for example, mineralite. In this case, the sheets are fixed through ceramic bushings with a gap of 2-3 cm. The top sheet is covered with stainless steel.

Option #2 - sheathing with cladding

Of course, protective sheathing with stainless steel perfectly protects wooden walls from heat and fire. But it can spoil the impression of the most expensive finish. Therefore, if the steam room is designed in a decorative style, the refractory lining is masked with heat-resistant tiles. The tile is laid on heat-resistant glue, for example, produced by Terracotta.

The best materials for wall cladding near the stove:

• Terracotta tiles - made of fired clay. Differs in durability, heat resistance, durability. Terracotta tiles can be matte or glazed (majolica) and range in color from pastel yellow to brick red.
• Clinker tiles - also made of clay, outwardly similar to facing bricks. Unlike terracotta, clinker tiles are denser. The color scheme covers almost all colors, ranging from white to black, including greens and blues that are unusual for clay.
• Tiles are a type of ceramic tile. It usually has an embossing in the form of a pattern or ornament on the front surface.
• Porcelain stoneware is a heat-resistant, durable tile. Depending on the method of processing the front surface, the tile can imitate natural stone, brick, wood. In the color scheme - all natural shades, from white to black.
• Talcochlorite is a grayish or greenish rock. Possesses fire resistance, water resistance, durability.

Fixing refractory tiles directly to the walls will not have the effect of thermal insulation. The wall will still heat up, which is fraught with spontaneous combustion. Therefore, the tile is used only as an element of the protective "pie" of the following design: wall - ventilation gap (2-3 cm) - refractory sheet material - tile. It is recommended to maintain a minimum of 15-20 cm from the tiles to the walls of the furnace.

Any material from this list can be used as a refractory element in sheathing:

• Refractory drywall (GKLO) - drywall, supplemented with fiberglass fibers. Resists thermal effects without structural deformations.
• Minerite is a cement-fiber board, absolutely non-combustible. Minerite plates are moisture resistant, do not rot, do not decompose.
• Glass-magnesium sheet (SML) - a material in the form of plates, made on the basis of magnesia binder and fiberglass. It has heat and sound insulation properties, does not collapse under the influence of water and temperature changes.

The protective sheathing with the obligatory observance of the ventilation gap has a very low coefficient of heat absorption, so the wall under it practically does not heat up. In addition, the use of lining allows you to mask the protective "pie" to withstand the finishing of the steam room in the same style.

Protecting the walls of the bath from the heat of the furnace: the installation of protective sheathing and screens

We figure out how to protect the walls of the bath from the heat of the stove. The device of protective skins and special screens. Technical rules of fire safety.

How to finish the stove in the bath

In recent years, metal stoves have gained great popularity among the owners of a home bath. The reason for this was the ease and speed of installation, affordable pricing. At the same time, they have a number of disadvantages, ranging from an unpresentable appearance to the likelihood of a fire. Finishing the furnace in the bath is carried out to reduce negative factors.

During operation, the temperature of the metal furnace in the bath reaches about 400 0 . A metal heated to such a temperature can cause a fire in nearby wooden structures. For the purposes of fire safety, there are permissible distances established by SNiP from a metal heating source to the wall. In the absence of protective screens, the distance must be at least 1 meter.

In large rooms, maintaining such a distance is not difficult. But if the question concerns a small home bath, every centimeter of space is important.

To reduce the allowable distance, a number of measures are taken:

• install protective screens around the furnace itself;
• sheathe sections of the walls located in the immediate vicinity of the source of ignition.

Metal screens

The installation of steel sheets allows you to reduce the fire hazard distance. From a wooden surface to a steel screen, it is enough to withstand 50 cm.

Protective screens made of metal can be either factory-made or self-welded. During installation, it is necessary to create a ventilation gap between the heating part of the furnace and the metal screen. The presence of a ventilation duct contributes to heating the casing up to 100 0 . Factory screens are equipped with legs and mounts, using them, it will not be difficult to install sheets.

brick screens

There are two options for mounting a brick screen:

• erect brick partition only between the wooden wall of the bath and the metal stove;
• the oven is laid on all sides with brick walls.

It is enough to leave a distance of 10-15 cm between a wooden wall and a brick screen.

Wall cladding with heat reflective screens

The reflective lining is a heat-insulating material covered with a stainless steel sheet on top. This option reduces the distance from protective coating before working surface ovens up to 38 cm.

As a protective layer that does not allow a wooden surface to catch fire, non-combustible, durable materials with low thermal conductivity are used:

• basalt wool(basalt canvas, basalt slabs, basalt cardboard), sometimes it is called stone wool. Made from rock (basalt), it is an environmentally friendly material. Does not emit harmful compounds when heated, withstands temperatures up to 600 0 without collapsing and without losing its properties. It has good water repellency, absolutely does not absorb moisture and does not cause corrosion of adjacent materials;
• minerite slabs- the main component in them is cement. Able to withstand a temperature of 600 0, however, the operating temperature at which properties do not change is 150 0. It absorbs and releases moisture well. Minerite is harmless to the respiratory tract when heated;

• asbestos boards or asbestos cardboard. Some consider it a carcinogenic material that is harmful to health, but this has not been scientifically proven. Harm to the body can cause asbestos dust when inhaled. Asbestos, closed on top with a metal sheet, has established itself as a good heat-insulating material;
• expanded vermeculite boards do not contain asbestos in their composition, are made of mountain mica. Have a small specific gravity, high mechanical strength. On such plates, a layer of plaster can be applied and tiled with ceramic tiles.

From above, the heat-insulating layer is covered with a sheet of stainless steel. In some cases, galvanized iron is used, but it is "transparent" to IR rays. The polished steel surface is able to reflect heat rays, directing them back into the bathhouse.

Metal sheets are mounted on ceramic fasteners that are not subject to strong heat. For free circulation of air flows, preventing heating of the wooden wall, it is necessary to provide a ventilation gap. To do this, a ventilation gap is provided between the heat-insulating layer and the wall. The screen is mounted, leaving a distance above the floor and from above under the ceiling.

Sheathing with subsequent cladding

It is possible to provide an aesthetically presentable appearance of the bath by decorating the heat-insulating layer with refractory tiles, the installation of which must be carried out on heat-resistant glue.

To ensure high thermal insulation protection of the wooden surface from the heat of the furnace, refractory materials are mounted on it, which can be used as:

• glass magnetic sheets resistant to high temperatures and high humidity environment. They are distinguished by high elasticity and mechanical strength. When heated, they do not emit toxic substances;
• expanded vermiculite sheets;
• minerite slabs.

Facing types: tiles

For facing heat-insulating areas, the following types of tiles have proven themselves well:

• Terracotta tiles. Eco-friendly unglazed tiles made of colored clay without mechanical impurities by long-term firing in ovens. It has high heat resistance, does not emit when heated harmful substances and specific odours. During operation does not lose its original color. It has color palette from gray to beige. It has textured options for wood and stone. Capable long time keep warm.
• Clinker tiles made from slate clay. Fired at a temperature of about 1200 0 in one cycle. Does not harm health in the process of heating. Such tiles are durable, have increased resistance to abrasion and discoloration. The palette of produced colors - from black to white.

• Ceramic tiles. Finishing material of artificial origin, consisting of clay, quartz sand and kaolin. Well withstands a humid environment and high temperatures, does not collapse under "thermal shock". Has a long service life. Manufacturers produce porcelain stoneware glazed, matte, polished, structured to look like leather, wood, stone.
• Soapstone tiles. natural material of mountain origin, more often - gray, but it is found interspersed with brown, cherry, yellow and green shades. Withstands repeated heating and high humidity, well accumulates and gives off heat.

The device of a brick casing around a metal plate

The brick casing for shielding the furnace has a significant weight, and a prerequisite for its installation is the presence of a foundation.

Foundation device

If the brickwork around the metal stove is already being built in the bathhouse, the flooring will have to be dismantled.

The size of the concrete base is calculated by adding the size of the brickwork 20 cm + the ventilation gap 10 cm + the horizontal dimensions of the metal furnace.

Begin installation by choosing a layer of earth. The depth depends on the degree of freezing of the soil and is about 60 cm.

In case of close proximity ground water geotextiles or roofing material, well smeared with bituminous mastic, are laid on the bottom and sides of the pit.

A sand cushion is installed on the base of the resulting pit. The sand is laid wet and carefully compacted. A layer of gravel or crushed stone is poured on top and compacted.

Another layer of sand 15 cm thick falls asleep.

• assemble a reinforcing lattice from reinforcement or metal rods, with a mesh size of 10 * 10;
• poured concrete mortar, not reaching the edges of the pit by 10 cm;
• after that, the concrete needs time to “mature” for three weeks;
• on top of concrete base lay several layers of roofing material and install a heat-resistant plate;
• a continuous row of bricks is laid, which should not protrude beyond the refractory sheet; voids in the masonry are also unacceptable. Excess solution is immediately removed;
• the second row is laid similarly to the first, but with offset seams;
• a prerequisite is the observance of the horizontal plane.

Preparation of mortar for masonry

Ready-made mortar can be purchased at the store or use a sand-clay mixture. To determine the best ratio of sand and clay, a small batch is made, from which a cylinder or bar is formed. Pay attention to the possible appearance of cracks, the absence of which is an indicator of quality.

The clay used for masonry is preferably used from deep layers, without earthen and mechanical impurities.

To give the clay the required consistency and plasticity, it is kept in water for several days, after which it is ground through a sieve to remove debris.

The proportion of clay with sand is 1: 1, the liquid is added to it in small parts.

A high-quality mixture does not stick to the trowel and does not drain from it. When running a trowel over the mortar, the trace left should not be blurry or have a torn structure.

To improve the quality of the masonry, rock salt is added at the rate of 0.1 kg per bucket of the finished solution. It is also good to add cement and fireclay powder.

Technological process of furnace lining

The laying of the protective casing around the metal plate is carried out:

• red solid brick, which has a high degree of heat resistance and a long service life;
• fireclay bricks, which have the same characteristics, but at a higher cost;

• ceramic refractory brick: it has all the positive properties of a solid brick, but at the same time it has a more aesthetic appearance and can be used as a facing.

In some cases, masonry is carried out with hollow bricks, but it must be borne in mind that it has poorer heat retention characteristics.

Before starting work, it is advisable to soak the brick. Dry brick is able to quickly absorb the liquid fraction through the capillaries and does not allow the binder part of the solution to penetrate inside to increase the adhesion of the masonry. In the summer, this method is not difficult.

If the construction process takes place in the autumn-spring period, in cold, damp weather, dry the wet brick in finished product problematic enough. To heat for drying means to strike a blow to the strength even before the start of operation of the furnace: uneven heating will destroy the seams. It is also impossible to leave the stove undried for the winter, the cold will tear the masonry under the influence of negative temperatures. In this case, a more liquid solution is made and the surface of the brick is slightly moistened.

With insufficient building experience, for the convenience of maintaining a horizontal plane, a cord or fishing line is pulled around the perimeter of the masonry. The inconvenience of this method lies in the need to raise the fishing line with each row.

You will be able to pay 30-50% less for electricity, depending on which electrical appliances you use.

Finishing the stove in the bath - how and with what material to finish the stove in the bath

Finishing the stove in the bath in this article, you will learn about the finish of the stove: the material for lining the stove depends not only on the preferences of the owner of the bath, but also on some other factors.

The stove in the bath is not only a device for heating rooms, but also stylish element interior. Therefore, its outer lining is given Special attention. The construction market presents reliable and practical materials from which the furnace is finished in the bath.

Right choice suitable material depends on the design idea, interior style and financial capabilities of the customer.

Features of the decorative lining of the furnace

The high-quality finish of the sauna stove must meet the basic operational requirements: withstand high humidity, temperature extremes, ensure durability and surface safety. Lined oven should heat up quickly bath rooms and create a comfortable microclimate inside.

Facing the furnace in the bath has a number of advantages, among which are the following:

• fast and uniform heating of the premises;
• heat accumulation for a long time;
• minimal risk of burns from a heated oven;
• air drying does not occur;
• simplicity and accessibility of maintenance of the finished cladding;
• attractive appearance of heating equipment;
• resistance to mechanical damage and deformation.

Types of furnace lining

In addition to the fact that the stove is the main heating equipment, it also performs an aesthetic function.

Facing the sauna stove is carried out using practical and durable decorative materials:

• ceramic tiles;
• refractory bricks;
• artificial and natural stone;
• decorative plaster;
• tiles;
• frame made of metal plates.

All materials are distinguished by high performance and installation features.

Ceramic tiles - elegance and durability

The best material for lining a sauna stove is ceramic tile. It is easy to install, affordable and durable.

For facing works, the following types of tiles are used:

• Clinker. It is made of red clay with the addition of fireclay component, melter and dye.
• Majolica. Material with a pressed base, covered with a protective glaze layer. This type of tile stands out saturated colors, decorative patterns and ornaments.
• Terracotta. Facing material, which in terms of performance is similar to majolica. Important differences are the porous structure and the absence of a protective glaze. Terracotta is distinguished by its durability, increased strength and resistance to mechanical damage. This type of tile is made in a round shape.
• Marble. Such material is distinguished by increased wear resistance, practicality and accessibility of installation, devoid of almost all the shortcomings.

Choosing a similar type of finish, the owners of furnaces ask themselves an important question, which tiles are better to lay over heating equipment. Experts believe that the best option is a material that has a minimum coefficient of thermal expansion and a dense structure - clinker tiles.

Refractory brick: reliability and safety

Decorating a sauna stove with bricks is the easiest and most budgetary option for owners who decide to do the cladding on their own.

The material has several advantages:

• fast and safe heating;
• accumulation and maintenance of heat for a long time;
• resistance to high moisture;
• low cost and easy installation.

For facing works, the following types of stones are used:

• granite;
• marble;
• coil;
• porcelain stoneware;
• soapstone;
• jade.

Decorative stones are able to withstand an unlimited amount of heat, they accumulate well thermal energy and maintain the set temperature for a long time. In addition, such material is resistant to acids and alkalis.

In terms of performance, they are not inferior to natural stones. artificial elements. With their help, you can qualitatively overlay a stove in a steam room or a fireplace in a house.

The technology of laying stones is simple, therefore, it does not require additional preparation. Non-standard shapes of elements can cause some difficulties in the fitting process, therefore, before installation, it is recommended to lay out the material on a flat base. The stones are numbered and fixed on the surface of the furnace with the help of an adhesive composition.

Decorative plaster: simplicity and affordability

A simple option for facing a Russian stove is plastering surfaces. Over time, the decorative and protective properties of the plaster composition are reduced, which will require frequent renewal of the cladding.

Important! Decorative plaster only used for brick ovens and not suitable for metal appliances.

Plastering the stove in the bath is simple, all work is performed in the following order:

• the surface is cleaned of dust, debris and residues of the connecting solution;
• the seams are cleared to a depth of 10 mm;
• the stove is warmed up before the cladding begins;
• a mesh of metal rods is installed on the surface with fixation to the wire;
• the surface is moistened and the primary layer of the plaster mixture is applied;
• after the plaster has hardened, a second layer is applied.

The thickness of each subsequent layer does not exceed 6 mm. The plaster mortar is applied with a trowel, leveled over the surface with a spatula. When plastering the surface, it is necessary to avoid the appearance of defects - air bubbles and sagging.

After hardening, the top layer is carefully cleaned until a smooth surface is obtained.

Tiles: originality and practicality

The use of tiles - the old fashioned way facings of stove equipment for baths. Tiles are tiles made of plastic pottery clay by firing in a kiln at a temperature of more than 1000 degrees. On reverse side tiles have ramps designed to fix the material on any surface. Tiles are presented in several categories:

• with a smooth surface;
• majolica;
• with glazed surface;
• with embossed surface.

Tiles are distinguished by high performance characteristics - durability, practicality, strength and high heat transfer.

Tiling works should be entrusted to professionals who will perform well the installation of the material on the surface of the stoves.

Metal frame: accessibility and safety

The sauna stove can be lined with a metal frame, which is installed on top of the device and covered with protective shields. The steel framework provides reliable protection of a furnace portal and an optimum level of heating of air in the room.

Such a cladding has the following advantages:

• accumulates the released thermal energy;
• quickly heats the air and walls in the room;
• is different affordable price and ease of installation.

A serious disadvantage of such a cladding is the likelihood of burns in direct contact with the surface. Therefore, experts do not recommend installing metal frames for stoves in baths to avoid possible injuries.

Competent choice of decorative material for cladding and compliance with technological process provide correct operation sauna stove and creating a comfortable indoor climate.