Waterproofing the floor before screeding: how to make a concrete base waterproof. Waterproofing the floor on the ground: protecting the first floor from groundwater Is it necessary to do waterproofing under the screed?

Waterproofing the floor on the ground is mandatory to increase the service life of the reinforced concrete screed. Without a hydraulic barrier, soil moisture penetrates into the structure by capillary action, which leads to the opening of microcracks in the concrete and corrosion of the reinforcement inside it.

Unlike foundations and grillages, which can be protected from moisture by all known methods, waterproofing a concrete floor on the ground is carried out with a limited number of materials:

• membranes;
• roll welded or glued insulation;
• polymer films;
• penetrating mixtures.

This is explained by the design of the floor on the ground:

• waterproofing materials are laid on top of the concrete base;
• this screed on one side provides a flat, hard surface that allows high-quality sealing of roofing material or Bikrost at the joints;
• membranes and films do not tear from the sharp edges of crushed stone, do not fall into the sand when workers walk;
• on the other hand, from below the footing protects the waterproofing layer and the floor screed located above it on the ground.

The location of the waterproofing layer inside the floor along the ground.

The weak point of the structure is the junction between the concrete base and the foundation (grillage or plinth). The horizontal layer of waterproofing under the floor along the ground must be continuous and smoothly transition into the vertical level, protecting the screed from the ends along the entire height.

The specified conditions are met only when using the following materials:

• membranes and films - they line the surface of the concrete base, the edges are placed on the side faces of the foundation to the required height;
• roll waterproofing - similar to the previous case, with the only amendment - bituminous materials are fused or glued with mastics to the specified surfaces;
• penetrating mixtures - added to concrete during its manufacture or applied to the floor on the ground after gaining strength, they change the structure of the structural material throughout the thickness of the screed, making it waterproof.

Waterproofing plasters and coating mastics are useless in this case. They can protect the horizontal surface of the footing, but when switching to side surfaces foundation, the continuity of the layer will inevitably be broken, since the floor along the ground is separated from the base by a damper layer and is a floating independent screed.

Membranes

They are created only from high-density polyethylene and have profiling. The protrusions on the outside (2 cm spikes) are intended for glueless interlocking of strips of material when overlapping each other. The opposite side (front) contains the bitumen mass.

Profiled membranes are expensive, but they allow you to do without a layer of concrete. Due to the high density and thickness of the membrane (0.5 - 2 mm), the sharp edges of the crushed stone are not capable of tearing the material.

Films

They are classified as flat film membranes, must be laid in two layers, and are made from several materials:

• PVC – polyvinyl chloride;
• TPO – polyolefin;
• HDPE, LDPE – high and low density polyethylene, respectively.

Films from 0.2 mm in thickness are suitable for floors on the ground; at least 15 cm of overlap is required at the joints; tightness is achieved by welding or gluing the sheets. Mechanical strength is very low, so films are laid only on top of the concrete base.

Important! Only vapor barrier membranes can be used, i.e. those that do not allow water to pass through in liquid and gaseous states; to be more precise, not just waterproofing, but hydro-vapor barrier must be done.

Roll materials

Most often, roll waterproofing is classified according to the base material:

• cardboard - roofing felt, glassine, rubemast;
• polyester – fiber made from polyester resins for Premium class insulation;
• fiberglass is a highly elastic base, but is subject to delamination after 5 – 7 years of operation in aggressive environments;
• Fiberglass is a fragile material, but it is cheaper than other analogues; in a floor pie on the ground it is protected on both sides, so it has a satisfactory service life.

A bitumen layer and a sprinkle of crumbs of high-strength non-metallic materials may be present on one or both sides.

Some manufacturers produce roll insulation without a base. For example, TechnoNIKOL has a “Floor Waterproofing” product with a self-adhesive layer, consisting entirely of bitumen coating.

Penetrating compounds

The leader among manufacturers is Penetron, which produces a range of materials for the manufacture and repair of floor waterproofing on the ground:

• Admix – a dry mixture for adding to concrete when mixing it;
• Penetron is also a dry mixture for preparing a penetrating solution, applied with a brush, increases the moisture resistance of the structural material by 8 units (for example, from W0 to W8).

Regardless of the method of application, Penetron products (and their analogues from less popular brands) react with cement stone, increasing its strength and moisture resistance throughout the life of the supporting structure.

Moreover, a broken piece of concrete treated with Penetron will also retain the specified properties until complete destruction. The only drawback is the price of penetrating insulation materials. For example, when using the Admix additive, the cost of concrete will increase by at least 300%.

Technologies

The above floating floor protection materials are applied in different ways. Therefore, depending on the construction budget, you should choose the right technology.

Deposition

Since in 75% of cases roll waterproofing materials are traditionally used, fusing technology is used most often:

• the dried concrete base is dust-free and impregnated with bitumen primer;
• pieces of Bikrost, Technonikol, roofing felt, Steklodroizol or any other rolled material are cut in advance and laid on the floor along the ground;
• the lower bitumen layer is heated by a burner torch, a piece is fused onto the concrete base, the edges are placed on the base or foundation to the height of the screed;
• the following pieces are fused with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm.

Fusing rolled insulation onto the concrete base.

Advice! In wet soils, it is necessary to perform two-layer insulation with the direction of the sheets shifted by 90 degrees.

Pasting

Roll materials, polymer films and membranes can be glued to hot or cold bitumen, epoxy or polymer mastics. Some materials have their own adhesive layer, which reduces labor costs, but increases the cost of flooring on the ground, since they are more expensive than conventional rolls.

Pasting is carried out in 1 - 2 layers, depending on the level of soil in the area and the material of the underlying floor layer on the ground:

• sand is a technogenic layer in which capillary absorption of soil moisture is possible;
• There is no such effect in crushed stone, but the material is more expensive than sand and is more difficult to compact manually.

To reduce the cost of building a floor on the ground instead of concrete, the following methods are used:

• the surface of the compacted crushed stone is leveled with moistened and compacted sand, the thickness of the layer should be at least twice the coarse crushed stone fraction (for example, 8 cm for the 20/40 fraction);
• the crushed stone base is spilled with cement laitance, which binds and levels the surface, preventing the absorption of a similar concrete product when pouring the floor itself on the ground.

Important! Films, membranes and rolled materials are not a damper layer of a floating screed, although they are launched vertically over its entire thickness. Therefore, the perimeter of the plinth, grillage or foundation must be covered special tape additionally or use a vertically installed strip of extruded polystyrene foam.

Penetrating mixtures

Volumetric waterproofing is carried out in several different ways:

The first technology is more appropriate when repairing a floor on the ground to improve its waterproofing characteristics. The second method allows you to avoid pouring concrete when making a floor on the ground.

Thus, to isolate a floor over the ground from soil moisture, you can choose any of the above methods, taking into account soil conditions, the design of the floor pie and the available budget.

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Major repairs of the floor space most often mean screeding work, that is, leveling the base for further laying of decorative finishing materials. In some cases, an integral stage of the preparatory process is waterproofing under the screed.

The term “waterproofing” in construction refers to preventive work carried out to protect various designs from water penetration, as well as protecting materials from the harmful effects of aggressive moisture. In the case of a screed, this procedure is necessary for the following reasons:

Thus, waterproofing the floor under the screed is necessary to protect against water penetration both outside and inside the room.

Another function of a hydrobarrier is often called improving the quality of the screed. In fact, the insulation formed under the concrete layer does not in any way affect the characteristics of the latter. This is only possible by adding special water-repellent additives to the screed mortar. Thanks to industrial plasticizers or polymer-containing dry additives, the density and final strength of the finished web increases.

Some craftsmen recommend waterproofing the entire floor not only in private housing construction, but also in apartments. The reason is that such protection will prevent the penetration of moisture from the screed mortar into the floor slabs and below. In reality, such a procedure is recommended to be carried out without fail for residents of the first floor. For everyone else, it is enough to treat the space in wet rooms, as well as the areas of joints between slabs, under communications (water supply and heating pipes), and the junction of walls and floors.

Materials for waterproofing under screed

Construction and finishing materials extensive and actively developing. In such an area as the formation of a hydraulic barrier, both old, time-tested and new unique developments of domestic or foreign production are used.

In residential construction, waterproofing under floor screed is carried out using the following types of building and finishing materials:

Liquid formulations

This is a huge class of products, including a variety of bitumen-polymer, polymer-rubber, polymer and other compositions. Including:

• intermediate primers for floors based on synthetic elastomers (polyurethane, epoxy, acrylic). They are applied to the prepared base, in some cases sprinkled with quartz sand to create an “adhesive bridge”;

• mastics based on bitumen, bitumen-polymer or polymer compositions. These are classic and modified compositions that paint the screed in 1-2 layers;
• rubber-like polymer materials ( liquid rubber, hybrid MS polymers). For floors, waterproofing from such compositions is practically not used, since their purpose is non-loaded surfaces. The exception is narrow-profile mixtures from Bostik (Aqua Blocker), Isonem (MS Polymer) and some others;

• impregnations on a polymer, organic or solvent basis with a water-repellent effect. These are special compounds that, after application, penetrate into the wood or mineral base, forming a waterproof barrier.

Insulating films

Made from polyethylene (HDPE or LDPE), polyvinyl chloride or polyolefin (TPO). For waterproofing under the screed, film products with a thickness of at least 150 microns are recommended. When installing, the canvas must be laid with an overlap, and the seams must be tightly glued or welded.

Membranes and geomembranes

This is a modern class of materials made from dense polyethylene, PVC or EPDM rubber. The product can be standard or reinforced, and the surface may have slight embossing or special profiling. Depending on the manufacturer, after installation, the joints must be welded, glued or connected using special locks.

The products are flexible, characterized by a high-density and tensile structure, resistance to chemically aggressive liquids, sudden temperature changes and frost.

Roll materials

Some of the materials may have an external mineral coating on one or both sides. They are fixed by fusing or gluing with subsequent sealing of seams and junctions.

Dry mixes

There are two types of products in this group:

Rigid or semi-rigid coating mineral compositions from cement, quartz sand, plasticizers and special chemically active additives (Ceresit CR 65, Sika-101A, Bergauf Hydrostop, Ivsil Vodostop).

Designed for the formation of waterproof coatings on non-deformable mineral substrates inside and outside buildings.

Penetrating waterproofing compounds mineral type (Penetron, Isonem, Kalmatron, Hydrotex). These are complex mixtures with in an interesting way actions. After application, the product reacts with the base: polymer or organosilicon additives that penetrate deep into the concrete transform the metal oxides and salts contained in the concrete into more complex compounds - the so-called insoluble crystalline hydrates. A network of such crystals fills capillaries, microcracks, and multiple pores of the base. Due to the surface tension of water, such an obstacle becomes an insurmountable barrier to liquids of any type.

The first type of waterproofing mineral compositions is available in the range of almost all manufacturers of dry building mixtures. The latter are highly specialized products, preferable in cases where, in addition to the water barrier function, it is necessary to strengthen the concrete (in compression) and increase the degree of its frost resistance.

To summarize, we note that rigid coating, liquid and penetrating waterproofing are excellent for both apartments and private houses. But according to membrane manufacturers, it is film and roll materials that, when installed correctly, provide a 100% guarantee of the absolute water resistance of the structure.

Waterproofing technologies

The hydraulic barrier is installed according to the standard scheme:

• Preparation of the base;
• Isolation device;
• Sealing seams and joints (if any).

The choice of waterproofing type depends, first of all, on the availability of materials (commercial availability), their cost and degree of reliability. But there is another important factor – formation technology.

IN civil engineering According to the method of construction, the hydrobarrier is divided into

Obviously, there are many ways to waterproof the base under a screed. And, although the manufacturers claim that best result They will give you rolled materials; experienced craftsmen fundamentally disagree with this. The fact is that polymer-bitumen canvases and films have zero vapor permeability. Because of this, over time, the structure of the subfloor changes, air “chambers”, alkaline efflorescence, etc. are formed under the screed. Therefore, it is most often recommended to use hard mineral mixtures under the cement-sand layer, and all the rest - above it.

Our advice is simple. As you know, each case is unique. You may have some special conditions, technological features designs, etc. Therefore, before purchasing water barrier material, consult with specialists.

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If you do major renovation in an apartment, especially in a bathroom or kitchen, you will need to carry out waterproofing and then screed the floor in the apartment. This procedure will also not hurt in other rooms, but only if you live on the first floor and want to protect yourself from basement dampness. We’ll tell you what the possibilities are and look in more detail at specific waterproofing technologies.

Types of technologies

There are more possibilities to protect premises from moisture penetration or water leakage, however, here we will describe in detail only those that are used in the apartment. Let us only mention that in private houses, where there is no basement, waterproofing is most often done using a gravel-sand cushion.

In high-rise buildings, vapor-waterproofing films are very common, which make the floor waterproof and also protect the concrete from the effects of water vapor from the floor slabs.

One of the most reliable methods is an additional cast coating. This technique requires significant financial investment, so it is not often used in apartments, although it is possible.

The most new technology is a water-repellent impregnation that is applied to a concrete slab from any side, penetrates its structure, and from the interaction of elements, needle-type crystals are formed, which interfere with the effects of moisture.

For the best effect, you can use not one, but several methods at once.

Roll waterproofing

This technique uses a film with rolls, which is spread on the floor before starting to screed. In this case, it is necessary to form an overlap on the walls with a height of at least 15 cm to make the procedure more effective. The parts of the film themselves also need to be overlapped by 10-15 cm.

Step-by-step waterproofing technology:

• Secure the damper tape around the entire perimeter of the room using dowels or an adhesive layer. It is designed to compensate for the expansion of the screed when a temperature difference occurs.
• If necessary, use mortar or sand to level the surface of the base on which the insulating layer will be laid.
• Lay the roll film overlapping and secure it using a gas burner or a hair dryer (selected depending on the specific material - non-fusion or polymer).
• If roofing felt film is used for waterproofing, it is laid in several layers, at least two. Other materials are usually applied in one layer.
• Then the floor screed is made, if necessary it is pre-reinforced.

Waterproofing by impregnation

The technology of impregnating the floor in an apartment takes much more time than laying film under the screed. First you need to properly prepare concrete base. First, it is cleared of debris, and then treated with a primer, which is better to choose from the same manufacturer as the main impregnation. You must wait at least two hours for the primer to dry.

A primer is a special primer, thanks to which concrete adheres better to the impregnating mastic (most often bitumen-rubber or bitumen mastic is used for these purposes).

Before waterproofing, it is necessary to coat every centimeter of the floor with a primer in one layer. Particular attention should be paid to the space around plumbing and pipes, as well as joints with walls. After the primer has dried, you can begin applying the mastic itself.

To impregnate the floor in an apartment, use a roller or a wide brush, with which the mastic is distributed over the surface in several layers. At the joints you need to take a thinner brush and coat everything very carefully.

Then you need to wait at least two days before screeding.

It is important to remember that after waterproofing, only plastic guides can be used, since otherwise the protective layer may be damaged and the desired effect will not be achieved.

Coating waterproofing in an apartment can also be used on top of the main screed before laying the floor covering. In this case, you also need to wait a few days before starting the final work.

Cast insulation

As mentioned above, cast insulating coating is not widely used in apartments, but it can still be used, moreover, it is one of the most effective and is unpopular only because of its high cost.

Cast waterproofing fills all the gaps that remain between the walls and the floor. Various materials with water-repellent properties can be used for it.

Before you start pouring, you need to build formwork around the entire perimeter of the room.

Liquid asphalt solution is heated to a certain temperature and poured over the surface in several layers. A metal scraper is used for leveling, after which you need to leave the room until the solution has completely dried. Sometimes the layer turns out to be uneven, and the only way to eliminate this defect is to fill the floor with an additional layer of insulating material.

A bathhouse is a room with a high level of humidity and a special temperature regime. Therefore, all its elements require careful thermal insulation and vapor barrier, and the floors need waterproofing, which in some cases must be supplemented with sealing work.

Which sealant is suitable for a bath

Taking into account the microclimate that is created in the bathhouse, the main requirements for the composition for sealing joints and cracks in floors are:

• moisture resistance;
• heat resistance, resistance to temperature changes.

Also, the sealant must have good adhesion to the materials from which the subfloor and floor covering are made.

It needs to be suitable for internal works and did not emit toxic substances, especially when heated. For sealing wooden structures A sealant with high elasticity is required that can adapt to the thermal expansion of wood. Acrylic, silicone and polyurethane compounds meet these requirements:

• acrylic sealants are excellent for wooden surfaces, but for rooms with high humidity levels you need to select waterproof (siliconized) compounds.

  Conventional acrylic sealants are quickly destroyed in such conditions;

• silicone ones have excellent water-repellent characteristics. For a bath, neutral heat-resistant compounds are suitable that can withstand a wide range of temperatures, acidic, and have good adhesion to wood and ceramic tiles. You can use special sanitary sealants that are resistant to the spread of fungus;
• Polyurethane sealants have excellent adhesion to wood; they prevent water leaks and floor blowing, cracking of wood, and its damage by rot and mold.

Stages of floor installation in a bathhouse

The bathhouse is usually located on the ground floor; a concrete screed is poured under the flooring.

It and the layers of the floor “pie” above must be protected from groundwater. For these purposes, a cushion of compacted sand and crushed stone is poured under the screed; the crushed stone is impregnated with bitumen on top or covered in several layers with rolled (sheet) waterproofing - roofing felt, high-density film.

If the floors in the bathhouse are insulated, the insulation must be protected from the penetration of groundwater from below and moisture leaks from above. Even before installing the floor, you need to think about the drainage system.

Usually the floors are given a slight slope towards one of the walls or towards the center and a drain hole is made in this place, installing a ladder through which the water will flow into a pipe (gutter) and be discharged into the sewer, septic tank, filter well.

IN summer baths standing on loose and well-absorbing soil, they make leaking (rainy floors).

Water flows through the cracks between the floorboards or specially made holes and is absorbed into the soil. Under the floor there is usually a backfill made of filter material; it is advisable to additionally lay drainage.

If the soil is heavy, drainage is required. Such floors do not require sealing, are well ventilated, their main drawback is the impossibility of insulation.

Here is one of the schemes for installing a non-leakage floor in a bathhouse:

1. A rough screed is poured (it is advisable to use concrete with water-repellent additives).

   Waterproofing the floor in an apartment before screeding

   The formwork is installed to form a hole for drainage. The ladder is tried on to determine where to make holes for it in subsequent layers.

2. After the screed has dried, it is impregnated, coated or glued with waterproofing and applied to the walls.
3. A layer of insulation is laid (high-density mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam) or expanded clay is poured.
4. Rolled waterproofing is laid on top, and a drain is installed in the right place.
5. A finishing screed is performed, preferably reinforced (for the last layer of waterproofing it is necessary to use dense and durable materials so that the reinforcing mesh does not damage them).

   The beacons are placed in such a way as to form a slope to the ladder of about 1 cm per 1 m.

6. Tiles and porcelain tiles are laid on top with glue. You can install a floor heating system under the tiles in the screed.

Sometimes the bathhouse has wooden floors. This option is more suitable for rooms with a normal level of humidity, where water does not pour onto the floor - a dressing room, a rest room. Wooden floors must be ventilated, so they are laid on joists or sheathing on top of the joists.

Between the top layer of waterproofing and wood covering leave a ventilation gap.

Wooden floors in a bathhouse with insulation

IN wooden bath It is important to protect the walls from contact with water.

To do this, you can make a ventilated box around the perimeter of the floor from timber treated with antiseptics and gypsum fiber sheet.

Bars of small cross-section (for example, 20x40 mm) and about 20 cm high are screwed vertically with self-tapping screws to the walls above the floor at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other; the upper ends must first be cut down at a slight angle. GVL strips in two layers are attached parallel to the walls to the front vertical surface of the bars. The upper edge of the strips should be approximately 2 cm below the end of the beam. Wooden planks of such a width as to cover the gypsum plasterboard strips are laid on the ends cut at an angle and secured with self-tapping screws.

The result is an inclined surface - a dropper.

At what stages is sealing needed?

Sealing the floor in the bathhouse is an addition to the complex of waterproofing measures:

• if glued waterproofing is performed, the joints of rolled or sheet materials must be sealed so that the waterproofing is continuous;
• if a ventilated box is made, the places where it joins the floor, the joints of the drip elements and the places where it joins the walls are sealed.

  For ventilation, only a gap is left between the drip line and the vertical gypsum plasterboard sheathing - it does not directly contact either the walls or the floor;

• cracks, seams in the finishing coating, and joints between the floor and walls are sealed to protect the insulation and concrete screed from leaks and water vapor. Due to dampness, concrete gradually deteriorates, the insulation loses its resistance to heat transfer, and fungus may appear under the coating;
• they also need to seal the outlet of communications, in particular the drainage ladder.

If roofing felt or other bitumen-based materials are used for waterproofing, the sealant is molten bitumen mastic, which is used to glue the overlaps at the joints.

Film joints are usually sealed with construction tape; some materials at the joints are welded using a special soldering iron.

The lower part of the ventilated box in the corners and at the junction with the floor is sealed with butyl rubber sealing tape.

The joints of the drip elements with each other and with the walls are sealed with a paste-like sealant; it is best to use acrylic, for example Accent 136 wood sealant, which is also suitable for sealing seams and cracks in wooden floors. Places where ceramic tiles, porcelain tiles meet walls and where communications exit are sealed, as a rule, silicone sealant. The seams between the tiles are filled not with sealant, but with a special grout.

Finish ceramic tile flooring

Sealing cracks in floors

Wooden floors often develop gaps.

Although for floor coverings tongue and groove boards are used that fit tightly together; over time, gaps may appear between them. This happens especially quickly in a bathhouse, which is characterized by noticeable fluctuations in temperature and humidity: wood is very sensitive to such changes.

In addition, under the influence of temperature and humidity fluctuations, the boards themselves crack, and the cracks can be quite deep.

If moisture penetrates through the cracks between the floorboards and the joints with the walls, which harms the lower layers of the floor structure, then through the cracks, in addition to moisture, microorganisms penetrate into the boards, causing the destruction of the wood.

Finally, such floors look unattractive, and walking on them is unpleasant. Therefore, cracks and crevices must be sealed.

Sealing cracks in wood floors

There are different ways to seal cracks in wooden floors:

• small cracks and cracks are covered with wood putty;
• if the gap is very large, you need to loosen the rail into wedges (dowels) the desired shape and size, place it in the gap, coat it with glue, and fill the remaining small gaps with putty;
• gaps can be filled epoxy resin, a rope cord is preliminarily laid in the deep ones to reduce material consumption;
• It is also used for sealing cracks and ordinary plumbing tow.

For rooms with a high level of humidity, such as a bathhouse, elastic waterproof sealants are best suited - siliconized acrylic, silicone, polyurethane.

They not only provide protection against leaks for many years, but also prevent further expansion and deepening of cracks and cracks. The sealant has excellent adhesion to wood and expands or contracts if thermal expansion or shrinkage of the wood occurs.

It retains elasticity after polymerization or vulcanization, does not crumble from cracks and does not crack when wood moves.

To ensure tightness, the surface must be prepared - cleaned of dirt, dust, degreased and sanded to make it rough.

The surface should not be wet. You should also pay attention to the temperature and humidity conditions in the room - it must correspond to those specified in the instructions for the specific composition. You can first put some kind of filler into deep gaps; a sealing heat-insulating cord made of foamed polyethylene is well suited for these purposes. They produce cord of different sections, so they can fill cracks different sizes and shapes, reducing sealant consumption.

The most convenient way is to fill the cracks with sealant by squeezing it out of a special syringe gun and leveling it with a spatula.

If leak-proof insulated floors are made in the bathhouse, you need not only to take care of their waterproofing, but also to seal the joints, cracks and seams, due to which the waterproofing becomes less effective.

The joints of rolled waterproofing materials, floors and walls, places where the floor adjoins communications, seams and cracks in the floor covering are sealed. Depending on the task at hand and the materials whose joints are sealed, you can use sealants with a paste or mastic consistency, as well as sealing self-adhesive tape.

Purpose of floor waterproofing
Materials for floor waterproofing
Roll products
Hydrophobic mastics
Special moisture-resistant plasters
Penetrating waterproofing

Creating a screed is one of the most important and difficult jobs when arranging a garage space.

Waterproofing a concrete screed is of great importance - the performance characteristics and durability of the floor covering, as well as the strength of the base, depend on its quality.

Waterproofing the floor before screeding: how to make a concrete base waterproof

Over time, concrete begins to deteriorate due to exposure to moisture, and in just a couple of years the floor surface may become unusable for one simple reason - cracks have appeared.

Waterproofing should be carried out in all rooms without exception, and in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen, special attention must be paid to this work.

Purpose of floor waterproofing

Why is waterproofing required:

• to prevent leaks. High-quality waterproofing will protect your neighbors from flooding and the associated material costs. This is also true for owners of private houses and garages, since internal leaks also happen.
• to improve the quality of the screed.

  If the concrete sets quickly, it will develop small cracks. Therefore, they are trying to slow down this process: they cover it with polyethylene and moisten the surface. If waterproofing is present, the concrete hardening time increases and it becomes stronger.

Waterproofing in an apartment under a screed must be carried out in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen, where there is the highest risk of flooding of neighbors (more details: “Waterproofing the floor in the bathroom - choosing the material and method of implementation”).

But experts recommend performing this work in residential premises, since there is water in the screed that can seep into the lower floor. In rooms, you can limit yourself to waterproofing at the joints of reinforced concrete slabs, walls and floors, in the area around pipes.

Owners of apartments on the lowest floor should also carry out waterproofing as in the photo, since contact of the screed with cold and damp air currents will cause harm to it. Concrete is a porous material that absorbs moisture and, as a result, deteriorates.

As for whether waterproofing is needed under the screed in a private house, this is also mandatory.

Without it, the liquid will be absorbed into the floor, and in just a couple of years, cracks will appear in the base, which will ruin the floor covering. For this reason, experts advise waterproofing in private homes twice: both before and after the screed.

Materials for floor waterproofing

There are several types of materials for waterproofing, each of them is worth familiarizing yourself with in detail.

Roll products

Most often, these materials are a mixture of bitumen and synthetic components based on fiberglass. They are characterized by reliability and durability. Previously, they were made on a paper basis, which reduced their service life.

Such materials are still available today, but despite their low price, purchasing them is not recommended.

Rolled waterproofing can be pasted or welded.

The first materials are attached to the base, and for the installation of the surfaced ones, special construction burners are needed that run on gas and heat the bitumen contained in them.

1. First, the base is prepared: it is cleaned of debris and dust, and all cracks and other defects are rubbed with a solution of sand and cement.
2. When using roofing felt, priming is performed with bitumen emulsion.

   The base slabs are additionally treated with penetrating insulating agents.

3. Damper tape is laid along the edges of the room. This is required to compensate in case of expansion of the screed, which occurs due to temperature changes.
4. Insulating sheets are laid with an overlap of 15 centimeters on the walls and 10-15 centimeters on top of each other, thereby creating a kind of recess.

   If particularly high-quality waterproofing of a rough screed is required, for example, in a bathroom, then the material is laid in several layers, shifting the joints (read: “Waterproofing screed - how to do it correctly, choosing a floor option”).

5. The overlapping sheets are fastened using a hair dryer. If weldable materials are used, they are heated with a burner before fastening.

   Pieces of roofing felt are attached bitumen mastic to the previous layer and base. The joining seams are connected in the same way.

6. When air bubbles and folds appear, these areas are pierced with a knife and smoothed out well, thereby removing the air. Afterwards, the edges of the cut are folded back, coated with mastic and attached to the base.

Such waterproofing of a concrete floor screed is inexpensive and reliable, but requires a significant amount of time and the availability of special tools.

Hydrophobic mastics

These are liquid compositions based on bitumen. They are applied with a brush, like paint. You can also use ordinary bitumen simply heated to the required consistency, but such waterproofing is less durable. Mixtures of bitumen with rubber or polymers are much better. Despite the higher price, such compounds are reliable, durable and easy to use.

Mixtures with polymer additives are not dangerous at low temperatures.

The sequence of work is as follows:

1. Preparing the base: removing dust and debris, removing various stains, including oil stains - they can interfere with the adhesion of the mastic to the surface. The cracks are eliminated with a solution of sand and cement, sharp protrusions and layers are eliminated.
2. Primer treatment improves adhesion.

   It is advisable to buy it from the same manufacturer as the mastic. The product is applied to the surface and allowed to dry for two hours. detailed instructions indicated on the product packaging.

3. Apply the mastic with a roller or brush in several layers - each subsequent after the previous one after 3-4 hours. If more than 6 hours pass, the product will begin to polymerize and the new coating will peel off. The first layer is applied in one direction, and the next in the other.

   Thanks to this, the quality of waterproofing increases. In this way, areas near pipes, joints of walls with the surface of slabs or the base are treated. The width of the mastic strip should cover the insulated areas by 15 centimeters on each side.

   In rooms where there is an increased risk of leaks (kitchen, toilet, bathroom), it is recommended to combine several insulation methods. As for whether waterproofing is performed before or after the screed, in these rooms it is better to do it both before and after. The mastic dries completely within two days.

This type of waterproofing is reliable, affordable, and environmentally friendly.

The mastic does not burn and is easy to apply without the use of special expensive tools. The main disadvantage of this option is the low resistance to mechanical damage.

Special moisture-resistant plasters

Waterproofing a dry screed can also be done using special plasters, which are diluted to a thick consistency (such as condensed milk) with water and applied with a spatula to a previously prepared surface.

In addition to sand and cement, such plasters contain polymers that reduce the level of moisture absorption. After drying, a coating is formed that is resistant to mechanical stress and deformation.

Execution of work:

1. Prepare the surface and apply an insulating compound prepared according to the instructions.
2. It takes about 15 minutes to dry the first layer.
3. The second layer is applied in the opposite direction to the previous one, and then also allowed to dry.
4. The third and, if necessary, the fourth layer is applied in the same way.
5. The surface must be moistened within 24 hours.

   Complete drying takes up to two weeks, depending on the mixture used. During this period, the surface does not need to be subjected to mechanical stress.

This type of floor waterproofing after screeding is inexpensive and easy to apply.

The main disadvantage is that the composition takes a long time to dry.

Penetrating waterproofing

This method of waterproofing is considered the most effective. It changes the structure of concrete: during the reaction, crystalline insoluble formations are formed in it, which seem to seal the pores of the concrete without damaging its structure, so that moisture does not penetrate into it.

In addition, the compositions used for this effect increase the resistance of floors to chemical attack. They are produced in dry or liquid form.

Execution of work:

1. First, prepare the surface - you need to not only clean it and eliminate cracks, but also moisten it abundantly, but so that water does not leak onto the lower floor.

   Waterproofing screeds on the ground cannot be done in this way.

2. The dry mixture is diluted according to the instructions.
3. Before applying the composition, the base is wetted again.
4. Apply the first layer of product. Then wait the time specified in the instructions and apply it a second time, after first moistening the surface again.
5. The waterproofing is covered with a film or regularly moistened for two weeks until drying is complete.

This is especially true in rooms where there is an increased risk of flooding - the bathroom, toilet, kitchen. In living rooms, double waterproofing does not make sense.

These methods described above are the most popular.

But there are other compositions - for example, liquid rubber, bulk mixtures. The choice is influenced not only by the preferences of homeowners, but also by their financial capabilities and operating conditions of the premises. Waterproofing after screed and before it is carried out for high level protection against water penetration - this is not required in all rooms.

And waterproofing before the screed is carried out in any case, even in living rooms, since when laying the screed, water can seep into the neighbors.

After completing all waterproofing works you can start making a screed.

Experts recommend combining several methods at once to improve their quality - for example, together with mixtures that react with concrete, additionally coating the cracks between the slabs, the joints of the floor with the walls, and places near the pipes with mastic.

The durability of the screed depends on how correctly the waterproofing technique was followed. Therefore, if you are not confident in your own knowledge and experience, it is better to seek help from professionals.

The screed is very capricious - when exposed to moisture, concrete begins to deteriorate, minor cracks appear in it, which grow over time. As a result, the floor covering suffers from this.

There is only one way to correct the situation - start making repairs again. So waterproofing must be done according to all the rules, not forgetting even about seemingly insignificant little things.

Protective screed for waterproofing requires a significant investment of time and effort, but the base for the floor covering is of high quality and durable.

Waterproofing underground floor

Waterproofing under the floor is necessary to prevent liquid from the solution from flowing to the neighbors from the bottom and not being absorbed from the concrete substrate.

The process consists of several successive stages.

Obtaining the substrate

First, you must prepare the base surface for the planned floor. It must be horizontal, dry and clean. In case of unevenness, the ground is leveled with rough books that flow into the previously exposed lamps. Further work can be done only after the solution has dried.

The surface must be cleaned of scarlet coatings, dirt, paint, oil stains, dirt and dust, so that nothing can interfere with the adhesion of the material to the surface.

Zinc, cracks, depression should also be leveled with cement plaster. In addition, it is necessary to treat the corners of the room: small radius rounding should not exceed 3-4 cm.

example

If necessary, the treated substrate should be treated, if necessary, again.

Preparation is considered the first phase of building new soil. Before pouring the floor filler, the substrate is filled to fill the pores, while the material consumption and filling process depend on the quality of the surface itself. If it is quite porous, he first applies a deep penetrating powder, which makes it less permeable, and then a dye is used.

In some cases the coating will turn white during application and then work must be interrupted. The most common cause of this undesirable effect is high indoor humidity.

In addition to providing high-quality adhesion, the undercoat performs the function of hydraulic protection, which creates a barrier against moisture under the substrate.

Waterproofing properties for self-leveling floors

Basic principles of waterproofing work:

• Regardless of the type of waterproofing chosen, the layer must be continuous, which eliminates the risk of water penetrating under the floor structure.
• At the intersection with walls and other vertical surfaces, the waterproofing layer should be vertically upward by at least 10-15 cm.
• If the substrate is well made, waterproofing can be done using adhesive tape that connects the closed and top plates of the coated mortar layer.
• To ensure that the finished mixture does not leak at the intersection with the walls, a special sealing tape is attached around the perimeter of the entire room, which is attached to the wall using a construction stapler.

Waterproofing with foil

Mark the fill level of the floor filler on the wall and place the plastic sheeting on the backing with the edges rising above that mark.

To improve the adhesion quality, the surface of the film is treated, otherwise the floors may crack and crack in places.

Cement lubricant waterproofing

Dry the mixture diluted with water according to the manufacturer's recommendations. After mixing well, leave the composition for 5 minutes. During this time, the cement is saturated with water and chemical additives are activated.

Waterproofing the floor before screeding - how to protect the concrete surface

When mixed with the mixture, they begin to use waterproofing with one or three layers. For different rooms The total thickness of the insulation layer may vary:

• 3-5 mm - with constant pressure under pressure with water;
• 2-3 mm - periodic or constant contact with water without pressure;
• 1-2 mm - possibility of one-time flow.

Particular attention is paid to corners and joints between floors and walls.

Treatment must begin with them. Taking into account the increased likelihood of leakage, the joints should be reinforced with tape.

During operation, it heats up, and at the end it is additionally treated with a layer of the mixture.

Waterproofing is applied with a brush or spatula. Continue moving your hand in one direction. The next layer can only be used after 24 hours, but it is important that the direction of the material used is perpendicular to the previous one. To ensure that the solution used does not dry out too quickly, the surface to be treated should be moistened with water or covered with film for 1-2 days.

In the video below you can see how waterproofing work is performed.

The waterproofing layer must be checked for leaks.

If you find an error, this area is opened and reworked. To protect the floor from mechanical damage, it is recommended to fill it with concrete screed.

Remember that no matter what type of waterproofing you choose, fill the floor only to a flat surface, so make sure it is flat when setting up the waterproofing layer.

Leveling a wooden floor without removing panels

If the wooden floor has lost its attractiveness appearance or uneven, do not disassemble it immediately. It is better to use wood and wood alignment guidelines or use decorative coating, for example linoleum.

The work can be completed without breaking the plates. Leveling wooden floor coverings occurs in several stages. Let's look at them in more detail.

Preparation phase

First, you need to carefully examine the old wood floor. Assess the feasibility of restoration work.

Find out, based on the level of construction, how large the gender gap is in the apartment. Next, measure the room at equal distances from the corners, marking movements on the walls as well as the center of the floor. Using the level of the object, distances are measured and the level of fall of the surface is determined. In the absence of broken fibers, the presence minor scratches, cracks, chips or damage to the paint layer, you can remove the hinge surface.

If the soil has a significant imbalance and the difference in different parts of the soil is more than 5 cm, then screeds can be made or a layer of logs can be placed on top of the logs.

Surface Shading

If the difference between the soil level in different parts is no more than 3 mm, wooden panels can be treated with acrylic seal or putty.

Before applying the putty surface, it must be filled. If the floor has a small surface area, use construction gun with acrylic seal. For large wood surfaces, an acrylic set is required, which is sold in large quantities in buckets. It is not recommended to lay a layer of filler thicker than 3 mm. A colored spacer of the same shade is used to create a tone-matched surface finish on the base.

If linoleum is to be laid over a leveled wood floor, the floor must be polished.

Wood mastic is used to repair defects on wooden edges. If you need to solve the problem of how to level a wooden floor under a laminate, then for greater strength, a wooden underlay instead building materials based on acrylic, you can use a composition based on PVA adhesive.

For a layer not exceeding 2 mm, PVA is used for laying plaster. At higher layer heights, wood slabs are coated with extruded or sawn PVA-based wood.

Due to the increased adhesion of the compositions, it is used evenly on the floor, it is difficult and therefore the surface will require continuous sanding until it is perfectly level.

However, the base will be durable and can be used for laminate or linoleum.

Machining with coupling

Soil cycling is a simple process.

Even a beginner can pull it out of a wooden floor by hand. When machining, it is recommended to use a coupling. Before starting work, make sure that the plates are well secured so that the screws and nails do not touch each other.

Otherwise, the machine may malfunction. A layer of wood panel with a maximum thickness of 3 mm is mechanically removed. After removing the top layer of the wooden cover, all holes and slots should be sealed with whales, the tone of which matches the color of the base. Mastic is used to seal cracks. IN hard to reach places surface treatment is carried out manually.

Because the operation of the machine is accompanied by a lot of noise and dust formation. To protect your hearing and breathing from dust or noise, you need to use a mask, headphones and glasses. The treated plates must be cleaned of dust, covered with a sponge soaked in solvent, and then covered with varnish or paint.

Sketch Options

There are two ways to level an old wood floor using a clutch:

• Pour regular cement screed,
• use a self-leveling solution.

When choosing the first option, it should be taken into account that a screed made from a cement mixture with a thickness of more than 5 cm increases the load on the foundation and ground plan of the building by more than 70 kg/m2.

When using a self-leveling mortar to level a wooden floor, an elastic and smooth surface, which is suitable for all floor coverings, including linoleum.

Working with Self-Leveling Joints

This method can be used in a wooden house and in buildings with concrete ceilings.

First prepare wooden surface. It is necessary to check that the panels are firmly attached to the subfloor and that all screws and nails are screwed below its level. Next, clean the wood floor, remove old layers of paint, and vacuum clean.

To seal the gap, a special wood mastic is used.

Apply a layer of waterproof coating to the treated wooden surface, which ensures good adhesion of the base and self-leveling mixture. The upper limit of the mixture is indicated on the walls of the rooms using the structure level. Placed on the floor reinforcement mesh, which connects the adjacent change of linen.

Then prepare the self-leveling compound according to the instructions and charge. To distribute the mixture more evenly, you can use a rubber screw.

Waterproofing device under the coupling

After drying, the coating is laid on the floor, for example, Linoleum.

Leveling a wooden floor with a mixture is one of the simple and high-quality ways to achieve a smooth surface in a flat or private home.

When and where is plywood used?

Covering the old wooden pallet plywood leaves will hide even significant damage, and even the difference in sexuality is more than one centimeter.

Let's take a closer look at how to level a wood floor with plywood.

• First you need to choose the right sheet material. To lightly level the substrate under linoleum or carpet, you can use plywood slabs about 1 cm thick.

  For flooring or laminate, use a film at least 2 cm thick.

• The environmental characteristics of the material are also important. They use FC or FSF plywood in flat or single-family homes. FC brand material is made without the use of phenol and is as safe as possible for human health. However, the resistance to moisture and mechanical damage is average.

  Formaldehyde resins are used in the production of PSF brand. Plywood does not have high environmental properties, but is more durable and resistant to moisture.

Leveling a wooden floor using glued plates is carried out using the first and second classes of wood material. Using plywood, you can build linoleum or carpet.

Preparation of surfaces and materials for work

First, you need to inspect the wood panels, secure them tightly or replace damaged ones.

When searching for communication pipes under wooden base they are checked for damage or need to be replaced. Once the plywood has been adjusted, replacement will be difficult.

The leaf material should be stored indoors for several days. Therefore, the humidity of the material and the air in the room will be the same. This will reduce the chance of deformation after installation. If you intend to install linoleum or laminate, you must provide ventilation holes.

Methods of fastening sheets

There are several ways to attach the material to the surface of a wooden floor.

Plywood is mounted directly on the panel, no logs are used.

Adjacent material sheets are spaced at a distance of 0.5 cm and are at least 1.5 cm from the walls. The mastic is then applied to the groove of the wood. Plywood leaves are evenly attached to the highest points of the subfloor.

If more layers of material are laid, brick technology is used.

Another way is to create a database in the form of a network of logs and boards.

Wooden logs or plywood about 4 cm wide. The logs are secured with walls of at least three centimeters. The sheet material is attached through the resulting base. Mastic is used to seal the slots.

In case of large differences in the level of the first floor, mini-dimensions are established.

To obtain flat surface land as a result of the work, precise calculations are made for the places where the mini-lagoon is installed, its height and size. Magazines are placed on special poles to increase the height of the carrier. Logs attached special glue or screws.

The flags can be replaced by a pile of beads made of wood or thick plywood called a shabass.

The thickness of the supports is calculated based on the difference in floor height. The shabas are spaced about 40 cm apart, forming a grid.

Plywood leaves are placed on the resulting mesh from the edges and secured. Wood mastic is used to remove the gap.

To improve the thermal insulation and soundproofing properties of the floor, a thin layer is placed on insulating material on logs and between them. After installing the plywood, it is recommended to apply varnish.

Linoleum or other ready material covered with decorative finishing of the floor covering.

Waterproofing works

Waterproofing work is carried out in order to protect building structures from exposure to the environment and aggressive solutions. The following types of waterproofing are used in construction: plaster, paint, cement-sand, asphalt, adhesive and sheet waterproofing coatings.

To perform work in the underground part of buildings, impregnation, injection and sometimes backfill waterproofing are used. The types, types and sizes of materials and prefabricated parts, as well as the compositions of mixtures (mastics, emulsions, pastes, solutions) allowed for use in waterproofing work are determined by the designs of buildings and structures.

For waterproofing coatings, a wide range of waterproofing and reinforcing materials are used. The most common are bitumen and tar, mastic, concrete, roll, rubber-bitumen materials, a wide range of synthetic materials in the form of solutions, emulsions, resins, varnishes, pastes, films, sheets, as well as metal sheets and foil, special types concretes and mortars, etc.

Jute and chlorine fabrics, fiberglass and fiberglass mesh, chopped fiberglass, asbestos, metal mesh, etc. are used as reinforcing materials.

In addition to protecting individual parts of buildings and structures (foundations, walls and floors of basements, floors of bathrooms, floors and walls of workshops with wet processes, etc.)

p.) waterproofing is also provided in expansion joints of insulated structures; To do this, expansion joints are filled with elastic bitumen mastic and covered in accordance with the project: metal expansion joints, profiled rubber tape, etc.

Carrying out waterproofing work outdoors is allowed at an outside air temperature of at least +5 °C and in the absence of precipitation.

During the period of work, the groundwater level must be lowered by at least 0.5 m below the base of the building or structure; measures are taken to reduce the flow of water to the insulated surfaces - temporary drainages are installed in the base, the masonry is compacted by injecting solutions into it, etc.

P.; if necessary, drainage wells equipped with well pots are installed on the insulated surface (after waterproofing is installed, the pots are filled with concrete mixture and hermetically sealed with lids).

Preparation of the insulated surface includes cleaning, leveling, drying and priming for painting and coating the insulation.

Before applying waterproofing coatings, anchors, hoods, pipes, etc. are installed. The surface of building structures to be insulated must be smooth and level; the insulated surfaces of brick or stone walls are leveled with continuous cement-sand grout or plaster; joints between precast concrete slabs must be filled with mortar; the protrusions of the reinforcement are cut off, the shells and recesses are sealed.

Various mechanisms are used to level surfaces. Straight and acute angles between adjacent surfaces of structures are rounded, sharp corners intersecting walls are given an oval shape. When preparing the insulated surface, it is necessary to treat the joints, seams and abutments, reinforce them with sizing reinforcement fabric, a mesh with bitumen mastic or a special sealant. The insulated surfaces under most asphalt and polymer waterproofing materials must be dried under natural conditions.

Drying is also carried out using electric heaters, electric blowers, fans and other methods in which the insulated surface is not contaminated.

It is prohibited to artificially dry freshly laid cement-sand screeds during the hardening period of the solution. When using aqueous emulsions and pastes, do not dry the surface. Before applying paint and coating insulation, the surface is primed. To ensure reliable adhesion of the primer to the base, it is advisable to either preheat the surface or apply the primer in two layers. Conventional primers for bitumen mastics consist of 1 part bitumen and 3 parts solvent; in other cases, it is recommended to use primers from the corresponding base of the waterproofing coating, but in a more liquid state.

Plaster waterproofing is a waterproof coating of insulated surfaces, applied in several layers or layers and having a thickness of 10 to 25 mm.

Plaster waterproofing can be of two types - cement-sand (shotcrete and ordinary cement plaster) and asphalt.

Cement-sand waterproofing is a layer of a solution that has hardened and firmly adhered to the insulated surface and has an increased density. Cement-sand waterproofing solutions are prepared by mixing a dosed amount of sand, Portland cement (non-shrinking or expanding) and water.

To accelerate the setting of the solution, ferric chloride additives are used; the ratio of ferric chloride to cement mass is 1:26, 1:22, 1:16. Solutions activated by ferric chloride are used for waterproofing underground tanks and other buried structures. They are applied to the surface in the form of thin-layer plaster. In the presence of hydrostatic pressure, insulation is arranged on the side of its action, and in the absence of water pressure - on the inside and outside of the structure.

Cement-sand waterproofing is applied with a mortar pump in layers of 8-10 mm and a total thickness of 20-25 mm. The top covering layer, 5-8 mm thick, is made of mortar on fine sand, followed by grouting with cement (iron plating). To avoid the appearance of cracks in the plaster, it is watered with a spray of water 2-3 times a day for 10-12 days. To increase the setting time, sulfate-yeast mash is added to the mixing water in an amount of 0.2% by weight of cement.

When performing work manually, the surfaces to be insulated are divided into sections.

If areas are fenced with beacon slats, then after removing the slats, the grooves are caulked. The thickness of the mantle specified by the project is achieved by layer-by-layer (layer thickness 6-10 mm) application of the solution. When using a solution on Portland cement, each subsequent layer is applied after the previous layer has finished setting, but no later than 24 hours, and when using a solution on non-shrink cement - no later than 30 minutes.

To grout surfaces, if necessary, apply a finishing layer of mortar (covering) 3-5 mm thick on fine sand after 12 hours when using a mortar on Portland cement and after 2 hours when using a mortar on non-shrink cement. To ensure reliable adhesion to the solution, the insulated surface must be clean, rough and moistened with water. The same requirements apply to the surface of each hardened layer before applying the next one.

Cement-sand waterproofing can be reinforced in accordance with the design.

To apply plaster using the shotcrete method, a cement gun is used; The cement gun is designed for applying a compacted layer of fine-grained cement using compressed air. concrete mixture, continuous waterproofing layer.

Waterproofing a floor under a screed - how to do it yourself!

To prepare the solution, use non-shrink cement or Portland cement of a grade of at least 300. The sand must be clean with a moisture content of no more than 5%. Cement and sand are mixed in mortar mixers in a mass ratio of 1:1.5 when gunning ceilings and upper parts of walls to 1:4 when gunning floors and lower parts of walls. Cement waterproofing is moistened: moistening should begin 8-12 hours after shotcrete and continue for two weeks 2-3 times a day when using Portland cement and for three weeks when using pozzolanic Portland cement; When using a solution on non-shrinking cement, the waterproofing is moistened first an hour after shotcreting, and then every three hours during the day.

Asphalt waterproofing is carried out in the form of a continuous coating formed by applying hot asphalt mastics or solutions or cold emulsion mastics and pastes to the insulated surface.

Hot Stucco Asphalt Insulation is a waterproof, pliable, and highly durable coating of several coats or layers of asphalt plaster applied to vertical surfaces by plastering method, and on horizontal ones - by pouring in a heated state at a temperature of 160-190 ° C.

Hot asphalt plasters acquire waterproofing properties immediately after cooling. Hot asphalt insulation is made from mixtures of the highest viscosity, which allows them to be applied not only to horizontal, but also to inclined surfaces. The insulated surfaces are divided into sections and tiers. The coupling of grips and tiers in each layer must be overlapped to a width of at least 200 mm, and in adjacent layers - staggered.

Hot mastic is applied in layers of 5-7 mm; The total thickness of asphalt plaster according to the project is usually taken to be 10-20 mm. Work is carried out in dry weather or under protection from precipitation.

Cold asphalt mastic is produced by mixing bitumen paste with mineral powder while adding into the mixture additional amount of water necessary to obtain the desired consistency.

To obtain cold asphalt waterproofing, several layers of bitumen emulsion mastics are applied to the insulated surface. Emulsion mastics are applied in layers of 5-8 mm to a thickness of 20 mm. The junction of a previously laid strip of mastic and one that has begun to dry with a freshly laid strip is overlapped by 15-20 cm. Each subsequent layer of mastic is applied to the previously laid one only after it has dried. Plastering works are carried out at a temperature not lower than +15°C.

Cast waterproofing is performed by pouring hot asphalt mortar or mastic into the cavity between the insulated surface of the building and the protective wall. Hot material pour onto a horizontal surface and level with metal scrapers in a layer of 15-40 mm. The second layer is applied after preheating the edges of the first layer. Cast waterproofing of vertical surfaces is arranged by pouring hot mastic in layers into the cavity between the insulated surface and the formwork or enclosing wall.

The pouring is carried out in tiers 20-40 cm high, the protective wall is erected from thin reinforced concrete slabs or brick. The vertical surfaces of the underground part of the buildings are covered with earth as the protective wall is built up. When applying hot mastic to the walls, it is necessary to ensure that there is no accumulation of water in the cavity, the contact of which with the hot mastic will cause it to boil and be ejected from the cavity. The thickness of vertical waterproofing depends on hydrostatic pressure and is 30-60 mm.

Cast waterproofing should not have cracks, holes or delaminations. If necessary, horizontal and vertical waterproofing coatings are protected with a layer of mortar.

Painting and coating waterproofing is a thin waterproof film formed on the surface by painting with hot bitumen, bitumen mastic in a hot or cold state, varnish or paints made from perchlorovinyl, epoxy, furyl and other synthetic resins.

Painted waterproofing also includes coating surfaces using flame spraying. When installing paint-based waterproofing from bitumen and bitumen mastics, the insulated surfaces are pre-painted with bitumen primers.

Primers are prepared from three parts gasoline or white spirit and one part bitumen (by weight) and are applied with spray guns, spray guns or brushes. Painting insulation is applied in a layer of 0.2-0.8 mm, coating insulation - in a layer of 2-4 mm. Painting and coating waterproofing crack during deformation, settlement and vibration of structures, so they are not used for crack-unstable structures, as well as in buildings and structures where settlement has not yet ended.

When installing paint waterproofing, hot and cold bitumen mastics are applied to the insulated surface using a bitumen sprayer. Electric spray guns, hand spray guns and spray guns are also used to apply cold bitumen mastics. Painting with varnishes and enamels made of synthetic resins (perchlorovinyl, etc.) is carried out on previously primed surfaces. To do this, use special factory-made primers or primers made from the same resin and varnish as the insulation, diluted with an appropriate solvent.

Primers are usually applied in two layers. The number of layers of enamel and varnish is indicated in the project. Perchlorovinyl compounds must have a temperature of at least +15 °C. Primer, enamel and varnish are applied with intermediate drying of each layer: the drying time for each layer of primer is at least 2-3 hours (depending on the air temperature).

Each layer of enamel or varnish is dried for the same amount of time at a temperature of 15-20 °C.

Painting and coating layers are applied in 2-3 steps to cover all missing areas of the lower layers.

The total thickness of the coating depends on the materials used and when applying hot bitumen, sand and mastics is 2-4 mm, and liquefied - 0.8-1.5 mm, bitumen pastes - 1.5-3 mm, bitumen emulsions, varnishes and paints - 0.5-1.5 mm. On top of the paint (coating) insulation applied to the underground parts of buildings and structures, protection is installed in the form of clay castles or a plaster layer of water-repellent soil.

The prepared clay mass is placed layer by layer with compaction into the formwork, which is removed as the cavity of the pits is filled with soil.

Hydrophobized soils are a mixture of sand or loam with petroleum bitumen dissolved in green oil; Such compositions are applied to isolated surfaces with a layer of 10-15 mm, like ordinary plaster.

Pasted waterproofing is a continuous waterproof carpet made by gluing several layers of rot-resistant materials onto the insulated surface. roll materials: roofing felt, waterproofing, isol, brizol, waterproofing fabrics (cotton, linen, hemp, jute and others, impregnated with antiseptic and bitumen), fiberglass, plastic sheet or roll materials (polyvinyl chloride, polyisobutylene, etc.).

For stickers, bitumen and bitumen-rubber mastics, bitumen-polymer alloys are used. Pasted waterproofing is applied to the surface from the side of hydrostatic pressure or moisture. Rolled materials with bitumen impregnation are glued on bitumen mastic, and with tar - on tar. The thickness of the adhesive mastic layer for each insulation layer is 1.5-2 mm. The number of insulation layers is indicated in the project.

Glue the panels to the surface from bottom to top. In each layer, each subsequent panel should overlap the previous one by at least 10-12 cm in longitudinal joints and by 15-20 cm in transverse ones. Joints in adjacent layers are spaced apart at a distance of at least 30 cm from one another. The panels in all layers are rolled out in the same direction. Cross arrangement of panels in adjacent layers is not allowed. The seams are puttied with hot mastic. Additional layers of waterproofing are glued along the corners and in places where expansion joints and embedded parts are installed.

After gluing of bitumen roll materials is completed, the surface of the waterproofing carpet is covered with a finishing protective layer of hot bitumen mastic 2-2.5 mm thick and sprinkled with hot sand.

Before gluing, polyisobutylene plates are rolled out, straightened and kept in this position for at least a day, cleaned of talc with a 15% solution of laundry soap and warm water, and sheets of polyvinyl chloride plastic are sorted, degreased, and cut.

Polyisobutylene plates are attached to the surface with glue or compositions obtained on the basis of bitumen mastics with a layer thickness of 1.5 mm. The edges of polyisobutylene and polyvinyl chloride plates are welded. The film sheets are rolled from top to bottom, overlapping the laid strip by 20-25 cm. The lower ends of the sheets are welded to the waterproofing protrusions of horizontal surfaces or to the strips sheet material, pasted at the intersection of horizontal and vertical surfaces.

The waterproofing must be smooth, free from dents, air or water pockets and bubbles. Loosely glued areas must be cut, dried and re-glued. Insulation work in the open air should be carried out only in the absence of precipitation on a dry base.

Sheet waterproofing is made of steel (at least 4 mm thick) or plastic sheets, which are joined by welding.

Before installing waterproofing, steel sheets are straightened, cleaned of rust, and checked for squareness. When insulating horizontal surfaces, steel sheets are installed on angles, tees or channels embedded in the load-bearing slab of the structure or in a protective fence.

A gap of 25-30 mm is left between the sheets and the insulated surface, which is filled with cement-sand mortar under pressure or compacted by vibration. When constructing concrete walls, metal insulation is used as formwork, installed before concreting the walls; the formwork is connected to the insulated structure using anchor connections; metal sheets and anchors are coated with two layers of anti-corrosion protection.

Waterproofing made of vinyl plastic sheets protects structures from aggressive influences. Plastic sheets are attached to the insulated surface with glue and then welded.

A major renovation of an apartment should begin with the installation of floors. Before laying a new coating, it is necessary to form a screed. It cannot be implemented without preliminary work. Waterproofing the floor before screeding is an integral part of the preparatory process.

Justification for the need for waterproofing

Many builders consider waterproofing a waste of time and material, but it is necessary. It makes the apartment cozier and more comfortable. Waterproofing has a positive effect on such things as:

• Protecting the apartment from moisture.

In the absence of waterproofing, moisture vapor from the lower floor or basement can penetrate into the screed. In a private house capillary moisture and water vapor rises from the ground. Having an alkaline or acidic environment, they interact intensely with the components of the concrete coating. As a result, it becomes covered with cracks and collapses.

• Protection of lower floors from leaks.

Faucet failure, breakdown washing machine, water flowing over the edges in the bathroom - all this can lead to flooding of the neighbors below. Moisture, having gone into the ceiling, after a while will appear on the ceiling of the lower floor. High-quality waterproofing will help you avoid unpleasant moments.

Features of the waterproofing device in the bathroom are reflected in the video:

• Protecting the health of households.

In a humid environment at warm temperatures, fungi and mold successfully spread, which negatively affects a person’s physical condition.

• Increasing the strength of structures and coatings.

They are also prone to destruction under the influence of moisture.

• The quality of application of the screed and the ease of laying the finished floor.

Important! Waterproofing before screeding should be done in all rooms, not just in the bathroom or kitchen. IN concrete mortar contains moisture. Water protection ensures gradual evaporation, which has a positive effect on the strength and quality of the screed.

Preparation and some features

Waterproofing a house has its own nuances. Maximum protection is necessary for a dwelling without a basement, located on the ground floor, due to the close proximity of the ground. Previously, the floor surface is sometimes leveled with special mixtures, and if there has been a redevelopment of the room, then a tread layer is laid on the base.

Partial waterproofing does not provide maximum protection, and water finds a place to leak. That is, if possible, it is best to do complete waterproofing, and in rooms with high levels of humidity, not only the floor, but also the walls should be protected.

Preliminary work

The room in which it is planned to install waterproofing must be completely empty. After this, the ceiling is completely “exposed” and cleaned (of dust, dirt and other debris). Next, a careful check of the slabs and joints begins.

Any cracks, every loose joint between the slabs is carefully sealed. Selective correction of defects in the future threatens heat loss and leaves ways for noise to enter the room. The most logical thing to do is to solve all the problems right away, rather than leaving them until the next repair.

If the basis is reinforced concrete floor, you cannot do without a penetrating waterproofing composition, for example “Betonokontakta”. Prices for it vary, starting from $1.3 per 1 kg. The costs will be relatively small, because impregnation is required only for rooms with high humidity: kitchen, bathroom and toilet. It is recommended to cover the remaining rooms with simple primers. Thus, the floors will be protected from destruction and even bad smell The dampness will disappear after some time.

Types of waterproofing

There are several types of waterproofing. Below are the most common ones

Sand pillow. For a private house without a basement, a gravel-sand cushion is best suited. In this case, crushed stone or gravel is placed under the screed. After careful compaction, it is covered with sand. The result is a kind of pillow with air gaps.

Waterproofing, due to its structural features, protects the base from capillary passage of groundwater. In order to exclude bad influence water vapor, you should use additional film vapor barrier.

• Film waterproofing. Vapor waterproofing films are used not only for waterproofing the floor in houses, but also in apartments. With their help, a moisture-proof coating is created. As a result, the screed is protected from vapors and moisture, and the floor slabs are protected from water leaks.
• Coating waterproofing. It is performed using rubber or bitumen mastic. It is able to fill any unevenness in the base. Protection is applied in several layers.
• Impregnation waterproofing. Relatively new, but simple and effective waterproofing of the floor before the screed. It is characterized by increased resistance to the damaging effects of moisture. Protective covering, applied to the base, impregnates the concrete and interacts with its components. As a result, needle-shaped crystals are formed, which protect the floor from moisture. Polymer or polymer-bitumen solutions are used as a waterproofing material. The penetration of water into the pores of concrete only helps strengthen the base.
• Adhesive type. It is also called roll waterproofing. The protection is treated with bitumen and synthetic compounds. Moreover, it has a fiberglass base. The material repels water and does not suffer from hostile influences chemical substances, which are contained in its composition. In demand in private construction and apartment renovation.

Laying technology

Depending on the material used, different techniques are used. When working on them, certain points should be taken into account, for example:

• To ensure reliable adhesion of mastic layers, each subsequent layer must be applied no later than three hours after the previous one.
• Adhesive-based roll materials are excellent for pasting protection. They significantly increase installation speed.
• Polyethylene film is best suited for insulating wooden floors.
• Liquid moisture protection products turn into a thin film after drying. Its maximum permissible thickness is 3 mm. The material is applied with a brush and renewed every 5 years.
• Ideal floor protection is created by combining several types of waterproofing.

Sand cushion device

The process consists of the following stages:

1. Foundation preparation. From the soil, which is located under the future floor, the upper fertile and chemically active layer is removed. The earth is being leveled.
2. Gravel laying. Crushed stone with a fraction of no more than 5 cm is poured on top of the soil. The material is leveled and compacted (large differences in height are not permissible). The thickness of the embankment should not be less than 0.2 m, and if groundwater is close to each other, the minimum level increases to 0.5 m.
3. Sand filling. Compacted gravel is covered with coarse sand. A layer thickness of 0.1-0.4 m is allowed. Sand is poured with water and compacted. This material should fill the pores in the crushed stone.
4. Laying geotextiles. It has shock-absorbing functions and protects the insulation and waterproofing from possible damage. Glue the material with a building hair dryer.
5. Foam insulation pad. Any material with increased mechanical strength is used. Penoplex and polystyrene are best suited.
6. Base waterproofing film or roll materials (if necessary).

Roll waterproofing device

The process involves the following points:

1. Cleaning and leveling the base. Potholes and irregularities are rubbed with cement mortar.
2. Primer with bitumen emulsion. It is only necessary if you plan to use roofing felt (as waterproofing). If desired, the floors can also be treated with penetrating waterproofing (for additional protection).
3. Laying damper tape. It is stretched along the perimeter of the floor and fixed with plinth dowels or glue.
4. Flooring of rolled materials. The sheets are laid so that they overlap, overlapping each other by no more than 10 cm and covering the walls by at least 20 cm. Rolled waterproofing can be laid in several layers, the main thing is to glue them together.

Important! Roofing felt is laid in two or more layers, gluing it to the ceiling with bitumen mastic. Films are usually laid in one row.

1. It is customary to fix the materials to be deposited using a gas heating pad, and polymer films are welded with a construction hairdryer.
2. Elimination of blisters. The area where the swelling appears is cut with a knife and smoothed with a spatula. Afterwards, the edges of the material are folded back, coated with mastic and glued.
3. When the waterproofing is laid, you can begin reinforcing, but it is not a mandatory part of the “program”.
4. Protruding pieces of tape and waterproofing are removed only after the screed has dried.

An example of laying roll waterproofing is in the video:

Coating waterproofing technology

Laying consists of the following steps:

1. Foundation preparation. The surface is cleaned of dust and debris. The process removes all sharp edges and stains from active substances and oils to avoid destruction of the insulation during operation.
2. Primer treatment of the base. It increases the adhesion of the mastic. Dries on average 2 hours. It is recommended to buy both mastic and primer from the same manufacturer. The primer should be applied with a brush in one layer. The joints of walls and floors, corners and the space near pipes should be treated especially carefully.
3. The ideal option is bitumen or bitumen-rubber mastic. Its price is quite affordable, starting from $0.8 per kg. The material is applied with a roller or brush, moving in different directions. The next layer is applied only after the previous one has hardened.
4. Filling the screed. As a rule, the waterproofing dries completely in 2 days, and then they move on to reinforcement.

Important! Usage metal fittings may damage the insulation. It is much safer to use fiberglass guides. They are light and strong.

Flooring on the ground is the most common solution when constructing small country houses. Also, a similar method is in demand in the construction of outbuildings, creating cellars and in a number of other cases. Laying out a floor on the ground is considered a very labor-intensive undertaking, but the cost of the entire complex of work is low, which allows the technology to occupy a leading position in work carried out independently. In order for everything to be done efficiently and the house to be comfortable to live in, it is especially important to complete all stages taking into account their specifics. Waterproofing the floor on the ground is just one of these.

As is clear from the word “waterproofing”, its task is to prevent moisture from penetrating into a certain space. As for making floors on the ground, the need for high-quality insulation is obvious. Groundwater located in the soil layers tends to penetrate capillarily into the floor base materials, thereby destroying them.

Damage from penetrating water manifests itself in two aspects:

1. Water vapor and liquid droplets gradually saturate the foundation materials of the house. Salts dissolved in water are corrosive and slowly destroy the structure of both wood and concrete, reducing the life of the floor in the house.
2. Climate change leads to the fact that water that gets into the pores of wood or concrete freezes and melts, creating increased porosity of the materials. The result of the processes is the slow transformation of wood into dust, and concrete into gradual cracking.

Thus, creating a waterproofing layer allows you to protect the floor of the house from negative impact aquatic environment.

Very often you can hear questions about whether it is possible to create a floor on the ground in any house. Practice shows that there are no restrictions in this matter. The soil can be completely dry or with nearby groundwater - no problem. Correctly selected layers of base, waterproofing and other coatings allow you to get a high-quality result in any case.

Ground flooring is suitable for small country houses, utility rooms, verandas, basements

Required stages of work and materials used

The ground floor is created on a layered base, the purpose of which is to prevent the appearance of holes and dips due to the natural subsidence of the earth. This structure is called a “pie”. Its design directly depends on what kind of soil is located under the house being built.

Important ! It is worth noting that the floor on the ground and its waterproofing must be carried out only at the construction stage of the building. Otherwise, it will not be possible to carry out all technological processes correctly.

If we consider the location of all layers, regardless of the type of soil, the depth of groundwater and other factors, in the “bottom-up” direction, then the sequence will be as follows:

1. High density soil. There are no additional materials here - the work is carried out with a natural earthen base, which must be strongly compacted. To carry out the work, special equipment is used, most often a level.
2. Backfill. There will be two layers, each about 10 cm. The materials will be crushed stone and sand. In this case, the crushed stone must be of a large fraction, and any sand. Their main task is to prevent capillary penetration of water into higher layers, as well as to create a leveling base for further work. You can replace crushed stone with expanded clay, but only on the condition that groundwater is located no closer than two meters to the base. Both layers must be compacted as much as possible.

For information ! Replace crushed stone broken brick or other similar material is unacceptable.

Floor pie on the ground

After all three layers (soil, crushed stone and sand) have been sequentially laid and compacted, you can proceed to the next stages, the choice of which is determined by the ultimate goal of the construction activities. It all depends on whether the house will have a wooden floor or a concrete floor. The waterproofing work also depends on this decision.

Wooden floor: structure and waterproofing features

Laying a wooden floor is carried out in the following sequence:

• Construction of support columns for laying lags.
• Surface treatment of posts coating waterproofing.
• Laying roofing felt as an additional barrier against water penetration.
• Laying wooden joists.
• Subfloor equipment. There are two possible solutions: a plank floor or a floor made of sheets of moisture-resistant plywood.

At the stage of creating a subfloor, there comes a time when it is necessary to resolve the issue of waterproofing. There are two options.

The first technology for forming waterproofing is that moisture-resistant plywood is used for the subfloor, thick sheets of which have high insulating parameters. To achieve an optimal result, it is worth covering the plywood with any of the film waterproofing options. This can be a rolled diffusion membrane or a polyethylene film (at least 200 microns). Features of installation include the presence of a mandatory overlap of 15 cm, as well as the mandatory use of adhesive tape for gluing the joints. After laying the waterproofing, a subfloor made of boards is installed.

Wooden logs covered with polyethylene film - this is how one of the waterproofing layers is formed

The second technology is that the laid subfloor is covered with polyethylene film, providing a margin of 20 cm for the vertical walls. After this, it is worth laying a layer of foamed polyethylene, which is known as a reliable waterproofing material.

Important ! If you combine both technologies, the issue of waterproofing the floor on the ground will be resolved. In addition, there will be a reserve of insulating properties in case of unforeseen water manifestations.

The structure of the concrete floor and the specifics of waterproofing

A concrete floor on the ground is also built on the basis of three primary layers of the “pie”, but requires a more careful and serious approach. The specificity of the work is that the soil has a mobile structure, and concrete is a solid monolithic material. The formation of layers, including waterproofing, must combine these two contradictory factors. The issue can be resolved according to one of two schemes.

The first option implies the following sequence of work on the formation of layers:

1. A layer of fine gravel. Follows immediately after the sand layer.
2. An analogue of a rough screed, that is, a thin cement-sand layer poured as a solution onto laid gravel. The permissible height differences in the rough screed are no more than 3 mm for every two meters.
3. Two layers of roll waterproofing. In this technology, roofing felt or roofing felt are recommended for use. The only restriction is that there should be no sprinkles between the layers. Joint insulation is ensured gas burner.
4. Thermal insulation layer.
5. Clean screed.

Standard option for concrete floor waterproofing

The second option for laying a concrete floor on the ground differs significantly in layers and materials:

• Polyethylene film. Creates the first waterproofing barrier over the sand base layer. The required coating thickness is 200 microns. All joints must be covered with tape or other impermeable adhesive-based material.
  

  Important ! The layer will not serve as insulation if there is even minimal damage. That's why mandatory requirement To plastic film- its integrity.

• Rough screed, for which a standard version of a cement-sand mixture based on fine crushed stone and river sand is used. The thickness of the layer is limited to 50-70 mm.
• Waterproofing layer of rolled material. You can use any option: membrane or roofing felt.
• Insulation.
• Clean screed.

If necessary, as shown by calculations of the location of groundwater, additional waterproofing of the floor along the ground can be carried out.

Polyethylene film will serve as an excellent waterproofing layer only if there is no damage to it of any kind

Additional floor insulation measures

The whole peculiarity of the technology is that a layer of fatty clay is added, and then the layered structure of the “pie” takes on the following form:

• Soil that is compacted to maximum density;
• A layer of oily clay - can be replaced with two layers of roofing felt;
• Crushed stone;
• Sand;
• Impregnation of the last two layers with bitumen;
• Rough screed 50-70 mm thick;
• Waterproofing using roll materials;
• Vapor barrier;
• Clean screed.

The final stage is the installation of a finishing screed

conclusions

It often seems that reproducing the layered structure of a “pie” is not difficult. However, flooring on the ground includes not only waterproofing work. This also includes determining the height of the floor in relation to the doorway, and modifying the layers according to real conditions and soil characteristics. In addition, you need to understand exactly how to position the floor on the ground relative to strip foundation and take into account a lot of different little things.

High-quality waterproofing of the floor on the ground is a reliable barrier to water molecules

All this is easy when the approach to the work is professional, that is, the floor is laid on the ground by people who have repeatedly performed similar actions. When specialists work, the probability of errors tends to zero.