Oil for wood processing. Why is wood impregnated with linseed oil? Care and treatment with protective oils

IN modern houses a lot of wood. Of course, there used to be more of it. But even now wooden parts there are quite a few in the house (knife handles, window sills, cutting boards, door handles, door jambs, handicrafts and so on). Like any other element, wood can age and deteriorate. Therefore the question “ How to treat wood with oil so that it lasts longer? - This actual question not only in ancient times (when wood was the main building material), but also now.

How to treat wood with oil? Well, you probably know that there are construction supermarkets. And in construction supermarkets there are entire departments with varnishes, stains and other wood impregnations. But on our site we prefer methods, so this article is mainly devoted to what you can do to process wood yourself.

So let's get started. And let's start from the very beginning simple way wood processing - impregnation with simple vegetable oil.

Impregnating wood with vegetable oil is one of the oldest methods of processing it. The main purpose of wood oil impregnation is to increase the moisture resistance of wooden products. So, wood itself is hydrophilic (loves water) and swells when exposed to water. Then it dries. Then it swells. And after several cycles (depending on the amount of water, air humidity, etc.) the wood cracks. Which does not improve either its mechanical or aesthetic properties.

Whereas impregnation of wood with oil

• a) closes the smallest pores of wood, polymerizing on the surface;
• b) makes large pores and the entire surface as a whole hydrophobic (water-repellent).

Well, besides this, impregnation of wood with oil increases its aesthetics, revealing the structure of the wood. What looks more beautiful than when the wood structure is not visible.

How oil works: vegetable oils, when exposed to air, under the influence of oxygen, light and heat, thicken, and in a thin layer they “dry out” (polymerize), turning into a semi-solid mass. This characteristic property is inherent in those vegetable oils that contain polyunsaturated fatty acids, in particular linoleic and linolenic. The more there are, the greater the drying ability of the oil. The following oils have the highest content of glycerides of linolenic and linoleic acids:

• linen
• hemp.

Sunflower oil works worse because it contains less polyunsaturated fatty acids.

Let's look at how this is used in practice.

How can you use linseed oil when processing wood?

For example, let's say you have a wooden knife handle that you want to finish. The easiest way is to take the oil in your hands and rub the handle thoroughly. Wait for absorption. Rub again. And so on until you get tired of it. In principle, this is enough for the household level. But if you want more (for example, increased resistance to water), then you can do the following.

The handle of a knife (or other product) should be placed in linseed oil for several days. To do this, the knife can be placed in a jar with a screw-on lid with a thin slot for the blade, which, after placing the knife in it, must be hermetically sealed.

When the wood is soaked through, it must be wiped with a smooth, dry rag. After this, let it dry completely for several weeks. When the oil evaporates, oxidation and polymerization of the surface occurs, which after some time becomes strong and elastic.

As you noticed, it takes several weeks for the oil to dry when processing wood.

Why? Everything is very simple.

Vegetable oil in its natural form, even with a high content of linolenic acid, oxidizes extremely slowly. To reduce drying time, the oil is subjected to heat treatment with the addition of metal compounds (driers). When heated, substances that slow down hardening decompose in the oil, and metal salts provide faster oxidation.

This way we get drying oils- compositions that, within 6-36 hours (depending on the composition, preparation technology and additives used) after application to the surface, turn into a hard, elastic film. As you understand, using drying oil significantly speeds things up. Drying oil can be bought at any store.

But as we said at the beginning, we are trying to find ways to process wood ourselves. So let's move on.

The first way to accelerate oil polymerization. You can buy both linseed oil and drier at an art store. Well, heat treatment is ensured by friction - thoroughly rub the oil into the wooden product for, say, half an hour.

Easy and simple 🙂 Although it’s cheaper, that has to be taken into account...

Second way To speed up the drying and polymerization of the oil is to dilute the oil by half with turpentine. Turpentine is a mixture essential oils, which are obtained by extraction from resins coniferous trees(i.e. from resin).

If diluted with turpentine, the drying time is reduced to 1-2 weeks. Also keep in mind that turpentine is a toxic substance (see Wikipedia on this matter), and you should not allow it to come into contact with your skin, much less breathe it in or drink it.

If you want to not only speed up the drying of the treated product, but also change its color, then you can dilute the oil by half with tar. Tar is a product of dry distillation of wood (wood is burned without access to air). That is, it is the same turpentine, only in a rougher and much less toxic form.

Flaxseed oil can also be mixed with wax. The wax dissolves in linseed oil (if you do this using heat, use a water bath and keep a fire extinguisher handy), and when treating wood with this composition, you not only oil, but also wax the surface. This enhances the water-repellent properties of wood many times over.

Naturally, the methods of wood processing do not end there. But we'll leave it at that for now, leaving other methods for next time.

Happy oiling your wood!

Protecting wood from mold, rot and bugs is the primary task of any owner. wooden house or log house. This question is important if you are working with wooden products that will later be used outdoors. Home homemade furniture also needs protection from moisture and other negative factors.

Coal oil is considered the best way to impregnate wood. But it is used only for impregnation of sleepers or other objects operated in harsh conditions. For independent work, use more affordable and pleasant-smelling compositions.

Oil or wax

Both of these substances are used to protect wood from moisture, mold, mildew, rot and bugs. Both oil and wax have been used since time immemorial and have consistently shown good results. They improve appearance wood and increase its strength and service life.

Impregnating oils for woodworking have high antiseptic properties and penetrate deeply into the wood structure, making its surface elastic. They protect the wood from drying out, do not clog the pores, allowing the surface to breathe, and regulate humidity. Wood oils are harmless to humans and are considered the most environmentally friendly way to protect them, along with wax.

Among the oils most often used for self-impregnation of wood, the following can be noted:

• tung;
• teak;
• tar;
• flaxseed

Some people prefer to use sunflower oil to impregnate wood. However, it gives the worst effect. The reason is polyunsaturated fatty acids: there are extremely few of them in sunflower.

Waxing – the oldest way protection of wooden products from moisture penetration. Wax fills the pores of the wood and gives it a matte color. Its only drawback is the lack of “breathing” of the treated wood.

Important! It is not advisable to work with pure wax, so it is dissolved in vegetable oil, for example, linseed, plus other additives (turpentine) are included in the composition. This type of work takes quite a long time. Therefore, impregnation of wood with oil compositions is considered the best option its protection from moisture penetration, rot, and mold.

Pros and cons of oil impregnation

Treating wood with oil-based compounds has many advantages. This:

• environmental cleanliness;
• aesthetic appearance of processed products: oiled surfaces after good polishing acquire a matte shine and become velvety to the touch;
• ease of processing;
• availability of material;
• relative cheapness;
• rapid restoration of mechanical damage. It is enough to re-treat furniture or floors/ceilings/walls and the scratches will immediately disappear.

Oil impregnation will ideal option protection for products made of expensive/exotic wood, houses/buildings made of logs (log houses), furniture that is exposed to moisture.

However, oil impregnation also has disadvantages:

1. Surfaces are quite demanding to maintain. This applies to both furniture and floors, ceilings, and walls. They need to be impregnated every 3 to 4 months and then thoroughly polished.
2. Oiled surfaces are vulnerable to grease. Its stains are clearly visible. Repeated processing removes them.

This is an ancient product used to protect internal wooden surfaces from moisture, rot and wood-boring beetles. It can be used to impregnate floorboards, ceilings, wooden furniture, trim and even dishes.

Important! During the reign of the Tsars, tung oil was used to finish especially valuable types of wood from which they were made. unique items interior This is due to its amazing ability to penetrate very quickly into surface layer wood, maximizing its texture.

Before starting work, tung oil must be mixed. It is best to work at an air temperature of +15° C. At a lower value, the composition thickens, and its consumption increases accordingly (standard amount per square meter– 100 – 150 g). Application is done in a very thin layer with a brush. Then let the oil soak in (20 minutes), take a sponge or soft cloth and rub the residue into the wood along the grain. Excess is removed. To increase absorbency, you can dilute tung oil by 40 percent with white spirit. The product is ready for use within a day.

Important! All oily used rags are disposed of as household waste. Grease can be washed off your hands with warm soapy water.

This is a universal product. It can be used to process both internal wooden surfaces (floors, ceilings, decorative items, railings, stairs, etc.) and external ones (facades, gazebos, garden furniture, decorative figures for landscape design). Ideal for processing products made of oak, mahogany, beech and other valuable wood species.

Teak oil is an environmentally friendly product. It contains tung and linseed oils, purified pine turpentine. It has nothing to do with the tree of the same name (teak).

Important! Never dilute teak oil! Before use, stir it well and/or shake the jar.

Is one of the most powerful natural antiseptics for independent work on wood. It contains stump resin, pine turpentine and linseed oil. Turpentine improves the penetration of the composition deep into the wood, linseed oil retains it, preventing it from reaching the surface. The composition is actively used for treating the bottoms of boats and piers. It is also used for external impregnation of log buildings, garden houses and garden furniture.

The properties of tar oil are similar to those of teak and tung. It provides excellent protection to wooden surfaces from moisture, rot and wood-boring beetles, while giving the wood a transparent texture. The technology of work is the same as for tung and teak oils: for 1 m2 of a well-sanded surface, only 100 - 150 ml of product is required. To impregnate the walls of a log house you need from 5 to 10 liters per square meter.

The impregnated surface dries up to 7 days. The drying time depends on both the quality of the wood and the environmental conditions. When applied in one layer, drying time is only a day. Dilution is not allowed; thorough mixing is required before use!

Advice! Store tung, teak and tar oils in tightly covered containers in a cool, dry place. They are not afraid of freezing and retain all their properties in frost.

It is rightfully considered the best and cheapest means for protecting wooden surfaces. Flaxseed oil has high waterproofing qualities and is intended for treating external and internal surfaces. It can be soaked wooden facades, walls, ceilings, trim, furniture and other wooden interior items, it perfectly reveals the wood texture, penetrates into the smallest cracks, preserves the wood, creating a durable water-repellent layer on its surface.

During impregnation, linseed oil thickens under the influence of environmental factors (low temperature, oxidative processes). The triglycerides it contains – linoleic and linolenic acids – actively contribute to this.

Important! Flaxseed oil dries longer than all of the above - up to three weeks, depending on the number of layers. If you add tar, wax or turpentine to it, the process can be speeded up.

Tinting oils are impregnations based on oxidized vegetable fats, used to highlight the natural beauty of wood and have protective properties. It is the use of tinting that will help prevent damage to wood from exposure to such factors:

• mold, fungus;
• insect colonization;
• getting wet and rotting;
• pollution, dust;
• discoloration;
• drying;
• appearance of cracks.

Tinting is used for interior and exterior work, but is especially recommended if furniture and other wooden crafts are used outdoors. The products are deeply absorbed, filling the pores of the wood and literally repelling water and dirt. The applied impregnation guarantees reliable strengthening of the structure of the material, as a result it becomes much stronger.

The areas of application of oils are varied:

• furniture;
• stairs and floors;
• parquet;
• lining;
• beams;
• external decoration of buildings.

Depending on the shade, the products are transparent or colored. As an example of the latter, we can name the tinting oil “Martyanov” - “Premium Shishka” and its other varieties (“Mahogany”, “Fog”, “Nut”, etc.). The consistency of the products is smooth, homogeneous, they are easy to apply, quickly absorbed, and are ideally combined with waxes and wood varnishes. The advantages of all tinting include health safety, lack of unpleasant odor, the possibility of use as independent means for wood.

Impregnation of wood at home

Let's look at this process using linseed oil as an example, as it is the cheapest and most accessible to the average craftsman. To work you will need a small list of useful things:

• natural hair brush, foam sponge, soft rag, rags;
• oil, a stick for stirring it;
• construction hair dryer, metal brush - to remove old coating;
• sandpaper to bring the surface to a perfectly smooth state;
• broom for removing dust from the surface;
• gloves to avoid getting dirty.

Impregnation technologies

There are different ways to oil wood. Some people prefer smearing and further rubbing, while others prefer soaking. True, the second method is suitable only for small objects - decorative dishes, figurines. The dish, by the way, can be used (as a container for bread, salt/sugar, fruit) because it is not at all afraid of water.

Preliminary stage

An important stage of work before impregnation will be preliminary preparation external/internal surfaces. For boiling, you will need to thoroughly sand the dishes or figurines. They are supposed to be freshly carved from wood and not covered with anything on top. Otherwise, you will have to remove both paint and varnish, and this is a very tedious task.

For large areas (walls, floor, ceiling) you will have to do much more:

1. Rip off the old coating. This includes varnish and paint. Use for cleaning wire brush, spatula. If the paint does not want to come off, heat it with a hair dryer. When it bubbles, lift the layer with a spatula and remove.
2. Sand the surface. Use two types of sandpaper for this – coarse and fine. You can stop stripping when you feel smooth surface without flaws.
3. Remove dust. Brush it off with a soft (Vietnamese) broom or use a regular rag. There should be no dust remaining on the surface before oil impregnation.

Coating

The easiest way to protect wood from moisture and rot is to oil it. It's best to do this with a rag. But you can also use a brush with natural bristles. This is relevant for small areas(platbands). Impregnate internal/external walls, ceiling or floor with a soft cloth soaked in oil. This is done as follows:

1. Stir the product and pour some into a separate container.
2. Dampen the rag and start soaking. Apply the composition along the fibers.
3. Leave the oil for 15 - 20 minutes. Then remove the residue with a rag.
4. Allow the surface to dry, then repeat the treatment.

Soaking

This method is used for small products. Pour oil into a container and place the pre-cleaned wooden product in it. The holding period is not limited. Ideally, you need to hold a plate, figurine, knife or gun handle until air bubbles stop escaping from the wood.

After this, take out the item and place it on a table covered with clean paper, tilted, so that excess oil drains off. Then take a rag and polish. Pure linseed oil without additives takes a long time to dry - up to 3 weeks. This has its own advantage - the depth of such impregnation is great, and the tree receives excellent protection from moisture, rot, and mold. If you can't wait to see ready product, add beeswax to linseed oil. This will significantly speed up the process.

Recipe for oil/wax composition based on linseed oil (suitable for both external and internal surfaces):

1. Heat the oil until smoking.
2. Pour grated wax into it.
3. Stir. When the wax dissolves, pour the mixture into a jar.
4. To give the mixture a pleasant aroma, add a few drops of juniper oil.

The ratio of parts in oil-based formulations may vary. To get a thin layer (floor treatment), take 9 - 10 parts of oil and 1 part of wax. Treatment with this composition is carried out 3 – 4 times. Compositions based on oil and wax 3 to 1 or 4 to 1 are suitable for impregnating walls. Oil/wax in a 1 to 1 ratio is acceptable for ceiling treatment. The layer it produces is thick, protection against moisture penetration is maximum, but resistance to mechanical damage very weak. But the ceiling is not threatened by any outside influences. Therefore, a composition based on linseed oil with the addition of wax 1 to 1 is the most suitable option for it.

Impregnating wood with oil compounds is an inexpensive option for protecting it from various adverse factors. Compared to industrial antiseptics, it is cheap, high quality and completely safe for health at all stages of work.

Flaxseed oil and drying oil: understanding the concepts

Flaxseed oil is a natural substance obtained by cold or hot pressing of flaxseeds. Pure oil can be used on its own finishing coating, but in the untreated state it is ineffective due to its low ability to polymerize (dry).

Speaking about wood impregnation linseed oil, as a rule, imply the use of drying oil. This is a composition modified by heat treatment and the addition of chemical additives that accelerate the polymerization process. Drying oil is also called “boiled” or “boiled” linseed oil.

Features of finishing with raw oil and drying oil

When treating wooden products with pure linseed oil, you should be prepared not only for long drying, which can take up to 3 days (for each layer), but also know a number of important features. The raw product is actively absorbed into the structure of the wood, so coating the wood with linseed oil has to be done in 5-7 or more layers. When it dries on the outside, it does not polymerize well on the inside, which is why a seemingly dry product can leave oil stains for a long time. Exposure to ultraviolet light significantly speeds up the drying process. In the sun, treated wood can dry out in 6-8 hours, but the tone of the coating will change: it will become yellowish or even slightly brown.

Drying oil, thanks to its high polymerization rate, has completely different properties: it dries quickly, is not absorbed so actively, and does not change its color. This makes it more practical to use. Regardless of the conditions, the answer to the question of how long drying oil dries is clear - no more than a day (at 20°C). This distinguishes it favorably from raw flaxseed oil. In the future, when talking about this type of finishing, we will mean linseed oil.

Where is the best place to apply this finish?

Impregnation of wood with linseed oil does not provide solid protective film resistant to scratches and abrasion. But this view decorative finishing They are valued for other things, first of all - environmental friendliness, antiseptic properties, the ability to emphasize the texture of wood and preserve it from cracking.

Flax drying oil is used for finishing products used indoors. It is optimal for covering furniture surfaces that are not subject to intense abrasion, wooden walls and ceilings. She's being treated wooden dishes, Kids toys. As a decorative and protective finish, linseed oil is appropriate to apply to the surface of valuable wood species to maximize the preservation of their natural qualities.

How to coat wood with linseed oil?

Preparation. The oil is applied to a dry and sanded surface. Wood moisture content should be at least 15%. It is recommended to carry out work at relative humidity air no more than 80%. When applying the composition to oily wood, the prepared surface is additionally wiped with white spirit.

Application. For work, use a brush, swab or lint-free cloth. The composition is evenly distributed on the surface and allowed to penetrate into the wood structure for 15-30 minutes. Excess oil that is no longer absorbed is wiped off with a rag or swab along the fibers. To avoid staining, ensure that the oil is evenly distributed on the surface.

Each new layer is applied after complete polymerization of the previous one with preliminary sanding. The number of layers required (in the case of drying oil from 1 to 4) depends on the specific use of the product and the type of wood (small-vascular species require fewer layers due to low absorbency).

The complete drying time for each layer is up to 24 hours.

How to restore oil coating?

Over time, the surface impregnated with linseed oil changes its color, begins to look dry, or wears off. This coating is short-lived, but this disadvantage is compensated by the ease of its restoration. When applying a second coat, the oil will hide all scratches and restore the appearance of the wood. If desired, linseed oil can be tinted with pigments, achieving the desired color shades. For products not subject to intensive use, the restoration procedure is carried out every two to three years.

What is oil wax and how to make it yourself?

Linseed oil with wax is an effective decorative and protective coating that gives wood high moisture-proof properties and increases its wear resistance. Impregnation adds a silky shine to surfaces and emphasizes the natural qualities of wood. Suitable for processing light and dark breeds. A completely natural impregnation is optimal for finishing wooden floors, stairs, doors, furniture and other items subject to intense wear.

It is not difficult to prepare linseed oil and wood wax yourself. The easiest way: add grated beeswax to oil heated in a water bath and bring to a homogeneous consistency. The classic proportion by weight is 1:1. The ratio of wax and linseed oil can be varied, creating compositions of varying degrees of viscosity: from thick mastics to liquid impregnations that penetrate deep into the wood structure.

How to avoid spontaneous combustion?

The process of oil oxidation upon contact with air is accompanied by an increase in temperature, which can lead to spontaneous combustion of oil-vapor rags, tampons, sponges, etc. Before disposal, all consumables that were used for wiping off linseed oil should be thoroughly dried in a straightened state outside the room, or better yet, soaked in water or immediately burned. To store the dispenser and other tools in contact with oil, use airtight containers.

Compositions on oil based- This universal solution, suitable for decorative finishing of any wood. They do not create a durable and wear-resistant coating, but have a wide range of other advantages: excellent adhesion, ease of application, antiseptic protection, and environmental friendliness. Treating wood with oil does not create a film on the surface of the product, allowing you to emphasize the natural beauty of the texture of the material and tactilely feel its texture.

Simple application technology allows you to avoid streaks, smudges, brush marks and other defects. If necessary, the finish can be easily removed and updated. As a rule, oil is used for wooden objects that are not subject to intense abrasion and moisture.

What oils are most in demand?

Linseed oil – characterized by ease of application, deep penetration into the wood structure, and high resistance to environmental influences. The main disadvantage is the long drying process (up to 3 days). Large-pore wood is treated with linseed oil in several layers.

Drying oil - This is boiled linseed oil. Due to the presence of driers in its composition - catalysts that accelerate drying, the polymerization process takes no more than a day, which makes this type of finishing much more practical.

Tung oil , obtained from the seeds of the Chinese tung tree, effectively emphasizes the texture of wood and forms a wear-resistant matte finish. The drying process takes about 24 hours. If linseed oil is more suitable for restoring old surfaces, then the use of tung oil is more appropriate when finishing new products.

Danish oil – finishing composition based on natural vegetable oils with the addition of resins and absorbent substances. Treating wood with Danish oil allows you to highlight its natural texture and create a durable matte finish. Drying time: 4-12 hours depending on the composition.

teak oil – mixture natural oils, resins and absorbent components. Finishing wood with teak oil allows you to get a durable decorative coating with a glossy effect. The drying process takes 4-6 hours depending on the specific composition.

What is dry oil residue?

The percentage of dry oil residue is an important characteristic that determines the characteristics of the finishing composition. The dry residue refers to the percentage of non-volatile substances in the oil - these are various strengthening additives, waxes, inclusions that improve absorption, etc. The higher the percentage of dry residue of the product, the better covering ability it has. Accordingly, oil with high content dry residue requires fewer layers of application. At the same time, the drying process (polymerization) of such compositions takes longer.

How to properly prepare the surface?

Before applying the finishing composition, the surface of the wood is sanded using abrasives of various grain sizes:

• wood with an open structure (oak, etc.) - coarse abrasives P150-P180;
• wood with a closed structure (maple, beech, etc.) - fine-grained abrasives P180-P240.

The sanded surface is removed from dust with a damp, lint-free cloth. When applying finishing to oily wood species (iroko, teak, etc.), it is recommended to additionally wipe the surface with white spirit.

How to treat wood with oil: general principles

The oil is applied to the prepared and dried surface using a swab or brush, followed by rubbing. Having evenly distributed a generous amount of oil on a wooden surface, let it soak in (about 15 minutes), then wipe off the excess composition along the fibers using a swab. Otherwise, the surface will be shiny, sticky, with possible staining.

Distribute the oil evenly to avoid spotting. Process the edges and ends first, because... due to the capillary effect, they absorb the finishing composition more intensively. In multi-layer processing, each new layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried, with preliminary grinding with a fine-grained abrasive.

The optimal temperature for treating wood with oil is 15-25°C. At temperatures below 10°C and high humidity, it is better to temporarily abandon work.

Professional subtleties of oil application

If stains form on the surface, increase the amount of oil applied.

To give the composition a more liquid consistency, necessary for uniform distribution over the surface, place the container with oil in hot water. Avoid contact with open flames.

The oil should not be applied under direct exposure to the sun, as... it will be absorbed too quickly, which in turn will complicate reprocessing.

Use a special dispenser to impregnate the surface - a simple and ergonomic device that promotes uniform application and economical consumption of the composition.

How does oil adhere to stain?

Oil and stain are not the best, but an acceptable combination. Any stain impairs the absorption of subsequent compositions, because partially fills the pores. In combination with oils, it is allowed to use only stains on water based. At the same time, practice shows that a more effective alternative to stain in this case is tinting pastes for tinting oils.

How long does it take for oil to dry?

• flaxseed oil – 2-3 days;
• linseed oil – 24 hours;
• tung oil –24 hours;
• polyurethane oil varnish – 12 hours;
• Danish oil –4-12 hours;
• teak oil – 4-6 tsp.

Since oils harden (polymerize) during the oxidation process, reacting with oxygen, drying products should be done in a room with constant air circulation.

What you need to know about the risks of spontaneous combustion?

When they react with oxygen, oils oxidize. This process is accompanied by heating, which can cause spontaneous combustion of the cleaning cloth and other items used during the work. Therefore, never leave oil-soaked rags rolled up: dry them unfolded outside and only then dispose of them. All items and materials (sanding felt, dispenser, sponges, etc.) that have come into contact with the oil should be stored in a sealed metal container.

Treating wood with oil is a traditional way of caring for wooden surfaces. Oil compositions ensure the safety of the material for many years of operation, impart hydrophobic properties to the surface and protect against the development of all kinds of unfavorable processes. However, oil treatment is not as simple an operation as it seems at first glance. Applying oil products to wood has its own characteristics, without knowing which you can get a completely opposite result and ruin the coating. In this review we will focus on how to apply oil to wood, what subtleties and nuances exist in this work.

The most common oils used for wood processing:

• tung;
• teak;
• tar;
• flaxseed

Each of the oils presented has its own characteristics, short review All means are given in the article. Here we will focus on the criteria for choosing oil, and also consider what is best to coat the wood in a given case.

1. The most popular of the products presented is flaxseed oil. It is universal and can be used both outside and inside the house. Linen impregnation is excellent for damp rooms, because... has good hydrophobic properties. The oil takes a long time to dry, up to three weeks; to speed up the process, wax is added to it. At negative temperatures the oil becomes hard, which makes it difficult to treat external surfaces.
2. Tar oil is ideal for treating log and timber houses. It perfectly withstands any weather conditions and is resistant to sub-zero temperatures. In addition, it is one of the best natural antiseptics and protects external surfaces from rotting. It is not advisable to use tar impregnation indoors, since it contains turpentine.
3. Teak oil is suitable for impregnation of any surfaces, it provides effective protection from moisture, UV radiation and other unfavorable factors. This product is also used to coat expensive wood species.
4. Tung oil is intended for treating interior surfaces. It differs from other types of oils in its faster drying rate. The oil creates a durable film that has a high water-repellent effect. Very often used for restoration of antiques.

All of the above oils are natural products; their use does not cause any adverse effects for humans. Today, mineral oil, which is based on petroleum products, is often used for surface treatment.

Manufacturers claim that synthetics are safe and can be used for processing interior spaces. However, this is not true; synthetic additives are released into the atmosphere and are harmful to health. Therefore, the use of artificial oils is permissible only externally, and only if the product has been deeply cleaned.

Selecting oil according to wood type

When choosing a specific oil, you should always consider the wood species. To determine how an oil-coated surface will look, it is necessary to test on a small area.

1. Conifers contain resins that prevent oil from penetrating into the structure, so they do not require oil impregnation. To protect the surface, if absolutely necessary, you can use thick compounds in one layer or treat wood of this species by waxing.
2. For low-density wood, alder and linden, it is also better to use thick, saturated impregnations. The use of fluid compositions is undesirable, since with deep penetration, they remain inside in a liquid state.
3. Beech and birch are characterized by high density, and therefore they are first treated with liquid compounds, and then with thicker ones, which have a high degree of solids, and wax.

How can you dilute the oil?

To improve one or another characteristic of the oil, various components are added to it. For example, to increase the absorption of tung oil, it is diluted by 40% with white spirit.

To increase the drying speed of linseed oil, it is mixed with turpentine in a ratio (70:30) and then heated. However, it must be taken into account that turpentine is toxic and has a pungent odor, so this composition can only be used for external treatment. Tar is less toxic and can also be added to oil to speed up the drying process.

To impregnate wooden surfaces inside the house, wax is added to the oil. It increases the water-repellent and antistatic properties of the surface and accelerates the hardening process of the oil composition.

If you want to change the color of the wood or get a more saturated shade, you can tint the oil using pigments. Tinting allows you to improve the appearance of a wooden house by painting it in natural tones more valuable tree species.

If you want to give your house a color unnatural for wood (red, green, blue), add oil paints or casein-oil tempera. You can also dilute the oil with gouache, but in this case mixing must be done while hot to remove excess liquid from the paint.

Oil application technologies

There are three ways to paint wood with oil:

1. Vacuum impregnation. This technique is usually used in industrial settings. Such processing requires special equipment, so it is impossible to cover the surface using this technology yourself.
2. Soaking. The method involves placing the wood in heated oil, letting it sit for a certain amount of time, and then drying it. Only small wooden products can be painted in this way.
3. Layer coating. This technology is the most common. It is used to treat wooden surfaces different sizes. This method is discussed in detail below.

Preparatory work

Properly preparing the surface is 80% of success in this job. The oil is absorbed very strongly and it is impossible to hide defects under it. Any abrasions, scratches, or unevenness will remain noticeable after applying the oil. Therefore here the main task– bring the surface to an ideal state.

It is quite difficult to do this manually; it is advisable to use professional equipment – grinding machines, polishing pads. If there are no special tools, you can do the work yourself, but of course, the appearance of the surface will be far from ideal.

So what you need to do:

1. If you need to treat an old log house with oil, first of all, remove the previous coating. Paint or varnish is removed with a wire brush. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the wood itself. If you can’t clean off the coating this way, you can heat it with a hair dryer; when the paint bubbles, you can remove it with a spatula.
2. Then you need to carefully sand the wood. Professionals perform this operation using a grinder with wheels of different grain sizes, which are selected based on the condition of the surface. For rough cleaning use nozzles No. 40-80, for medium - No. 100-120, for polishing - No. 150-180. If there are no machines, you can sand by hand sandpaper different factions.
3. Before final polishing, all cracks and cracks must be sealed. It is necessary to putty with putty to match the color of the wood so that the patches remain invisible after applying the oil.
4. After graduation preparatory work, all dust must be removed using construction vacuum cleaner. The remaining dust will also be visible after applying the oil, so do this work as carefully as possible.

Oil application instructions

Treatment of internal surfaces

The oil can be applied cold or hot. Application rules are the same for both options. The difference is in the oil impregnation temperature. In the first case, oil is used room temperature, in the second - before use, the composition is heated to a temperature of 80 degrees. It is also necessary to warm up the surface itself with a special thermal pad, since it will not be possible to saturate cold wood with hot oil; the product will not be able to be absorbed and will remain on the surface.

Regardless of the chosen method, you need to paint wood with oil in stages:

1. First, the first layer of impregnation is applied. The oil is applied with a brush or cotton cloth in a thin layer and distributed evenly over the surface.
2. Excess oil must be removed immediately; if this is not done, the impregnation will dry out and form a crust, which will then be very difficult to remove. To remove excess oil, you need to wipe the area with a dry cloth. You need to rub in the impregnation until the rag collects the oil. If the oil is not absorbed and lies on the floor surface, you can take rubber spatula and use it to scrape the excess into the puddles, and then collect it with a rag.
3. Next, the surface is polished soft cloth. After this, wipe all wet areas dry with a cotton rag.
4. With the cold processing method, the application of the second layer begins no earlier than 5 hours; in some cases it is necessary to wait up to 12 hours. It depends on the type of oil. The second treatment with hot oil can be done after 2-2.5 hours, because it dries much faster.
5. Repeated processing is carried out similarly to the first, each layer must be sanded. The number of layers depends on the condition of the surface, tree species and type of oil. Usually 2-3 layers of treatment are enough.

It takes two to three weeks for the surface to completely dry; the exact period depends on the combination of the factors listed above.

Exterior treatment of the house

Applying oil to the facade of a house made of timber and logs should be done in warm sunny weather. It is advisable to prime the surface before doing this. Let's take linseed oil as an example. If the processing is carried out with flax oil, it must first be cleared of impurities, since under the influence of solar radiation the flax impregnation turns yellow.