How to plant irises bulbs in autumn. How to plant Irises? Planting Irises in autumn, care in open ground. Swamp iris: planting and care

Irises are a resilient garden crop, unpretentious to growing conditions, which is represented by a variety of colors, shades, and varieties. This perennial is grown almost everywhere; it has no special requirements for soil composition, lighting or care. Flowers look spectacular in flower beds and along fences. To achieve good results and enjoy beautiful flowering, you need to know how to properly plant and care for irises in open ground in the fall.

Benefits of autumn planting

In general, flower crops can be planted in open areas from early spring to October. But when planting irises in the fall, the process of adaptation and rooting occurs much faster and more efficiently, since the plants are in a state of rest, which occurs after the flowering phase. The best time for planting or replanting flowers is August (second half of the month) and September. If you adhere to these terms and basic agricultural practices, then you can expect flowers to appear next spring, more lush flowering- in the second year.

Among the positive aspects of autumn planting, experienced gardeners note:

formation of a strong root system;
lignification of emerging buds;
The bush is divided painlessly for the plant;
landings are easier to tolerate subzero temperatures;
in the spring they begin to grow early.

Timing of the procedure

At the end of the flowering phase, when the arrows of the irises have already drooped, planting work begins. It is better to plant the crop in the fall in the first half of the season, while the weather is still warm, and at least 1-1.5 months before the first frost. This is especially important for the Moscow region and surrounding areas.

If you plant irises at a late date, the rooting process will occur very slowly, and there is a high probability that they will freeze in winter.

The technology for planting garden crops in open ground does not differ significantly from spring planting. Flowers with a strong root system are removed from the ground, inspected, selected, and the rhizomes are divided into parts, after which they are assigned to the prepared area. To avoid negative consequences during wintering, shelter is required: dry leaf mass, a layer of peat (5-10 cm), sand. With the arrival of spring, the plantings are freed from additional shelter.

Preparatory stage

Before planting irises in open ground, you should not only properly prepare planting material, but also to cultivate the territory allocated for these purposes.

Selection and preparation of planting material

To grow healthy and flowering plants, it is necessary to stop feeding bushes that require replanting in August. The process of preparing planting material includes the following steps:

The plant should be carefully dug around the entire perimeter using a garden fork.
Carefully remove the rhizome from the soil.
Dry in the sun for 2-3 days - this will increase the germination rate and resistance of the crop to adverse factors. environment, diseases.
Using a sharp knife or scissors, separate cuttings for seedlings. Each should have leaf blades and part of the rhizome up to 10 cm.
The leaf mass must be cut in the form of a house, leaving only a third of the entire length.
Also cut the roots to 10 cm.
Disinfect the plants. To disinfect all cuts, crushed charcoal or ash should be used. A solution of potassium permanganate (1%) is highly effective; planting material is immersed in it for 10-15 minutes.

If not a single variety of garden crop is planted, then the divisions are signed.

If it is necessary to plant the desired variety, floriculture lovers use the following method: fragments of rhizomes with a bud, without green mass and small roots, are kept in damp sand until the buds awaken and the roots grow. To plant new bushes, you should not remove the entire rhizome from the ground; you can only take its young segments containing leaves.

It is mandatory to inspect the planting material; it should not show signs of disease or traces of mechanical damage. These must be completely healthy sections.

Preparing the site

When planting in open ground, a number of points should be taken into account:

The clearing allocated for planting garden crops should be well lit and protected from draft winds.
Groundwater should not be close to the surface, otherwise in the future the flowers may have problems with the root system and they will be affected by rot. If necessary, you need to make an embankment, lay out drainage in the form of fine gravel, brickwork.
Irises grow and develop best on loamy soils with added sand and a low degree of acidity. It is not advisable to choose areas with sandy soil; there is a high probability of flowers drying out. You can save the situation by adding 1-2 scoops of clay, which will help attract water. When growing capricious varieties, it is good to add mature compost or humus to the soil. Superphosphate and potassium compounds also give positive results.
Effectively used to reduce acidity wood ash, dolomite flour, lime, chalk.

Technology and planting scheme

When planting irises in the fall, certain rules must be followed; only with this approach will you be able to see them bloom in the spring.

Bulbs

The prepared planting material is planted in a special basket for bulbous plants. The device is a plastic container with small holes made in the bottom through which excess moisture will escape and air will enter. It is relatively inexpensive and is sold in every specialty store.

Having decided on the planting site, place the basket on the ground and circle it. Using the resulting marks, you need to dig a hole 16 cm deep, then add the nutrient mixture and place a basket on top. The selected soil for planting, mixed with an organic composition, is placed inside a plastic container. The planted bulbs are covered with a layer of fertile soil. At the end of the flowering phase, the plants should be dug up. When the bulbs ripen in a secluded place, they are put away for storage.

It is more effective, according to experienced gardeners, to plant irises in a greenhouse in the fall. Then in November there will be flowers suitable for pruning.

Optimal timing for forcing when planting bulbs - the first days of February. You can speed up the process of bud formation and growth of vegetative organs by maintaining a constant temperature of 15 degrees. In this case, the plants will need bright lighting, saturation of the soil with useful components and moderate watering.

Delenki

To plant rhizome segments, you do not need to dig too large planting nests; holes according to the size of the absorbent roots are quite suitable. Planting material is placed in the center, on a hill made of earth. The roots are sprinkled with a layer of fertile soil and watered.

If everything was done correctly, the fan of leaves will be positioned vertically, with the root neck above the surface of the ground. After two weeks, you can slightly lift the plant by the leaves; well-rooted specimens will be confidently held in the ground.

Subtleties of care after planting and preparation for winter

If you properly care for irises after planting them in open ground, you can grow a luxurious plant with bright flowers that will decorate garden paths, flower beds. The next watering after identifying the crop in a permanent place is carried out 3-4 days later, after which it is sprinkled with dry soil mixture to retain moisture. IN further care for planting irises in the fall consists of measures to remove weeds. But this should be done carefully, otherwise it is easy to damage the root system of the garden crop, which is located in top layer land. Before wintering, the leaves growing in the form of a fan need to be trimmed.

Mature plantings do not require additional shelter for the winter. But it is recommended to mulch young plants with leaves, peat, and lay them on top fir branches. The main thing is not to forget to put everything away when spring comes.

Planted irises do not need additional feeding procedures. Under no circumstances should you use manure, which has a detrimental effect on them.

Typical beginner mistakes

Often, inexperienced gardeners ignore preparatory measures and do not disinfect planting material, which leads to the occurrence of diseases. In addition, bulbs and divisions are planted deeply, which affects the plant’s ability to form buds. If you choose a poorly lit area for planting, there is a high probability that the irises will not bloom. Ignoring measures to arrange additional shelter is fraught with freezing of flower buds. Excessive moisture in the soil promotes the development of putrefactive processes in the root system. Violations in agricultural technology also lead to negative consequences.

Irises, despite their unpretentiousness to growing conditions, still need proper care. Only high-quality planting material and compliance with basic agrotechnical practices make it possible to obtain healthy plants.

The variety of irises is so great that it impresses even specialists who admire endless variety shapes, color of flowers and the prevalence of varieties in different climatic conditions. We will discuss the varietal characteristics of the plant, planting methods and care features. You will find out how planting irises in autumn differs from other periods here.

Best planting period

Beginners may wonder what is the best time to plant irises, spring or fall. Many gardeners claim that planting dates begin in early spring, and end in the fall. Even in summer you can plant this crop, and it will grow well. But still, experienced gardeners believe that planting irises in the fall has the best effect on the adaptability of young plants to new soil.

Due to the fact that root survival time is 1.5 months, autumn air humidity ideally contributes to this process. And transplanting irises from the beginning of September to the beginning of October allows the plants to get used to the new place even before the onset of frost.

In the Leningrad region, planting and care can begin as early as August. In Siberia and the Urals, due to early cooling, you don’t have to wait for the onset of autumn, and start planting flowers from spring throughout the summer. The faded peduncle (shoot) will tell you when to plant the crop. Immediately after flowering, you can begin dividing the roots, and then planting irises in the fall will smoothly move to June and July, based on the variety.

For example: the “Kasatik” variety is loved by flower growers for its exceptional vitality, winter hardiness and lush flowering in the rocky and marshy expanses of Siberia. In addition, it is rich in a variety of colors and shades, as the name itself proves. After all, iris translated from Greek means “rainbow”. Having the appearance of an orchid, the killer whale does not require special care.

Famous varieties of irises

Choosing planting material

Planting in spring involves, first of all, the propagation of bulbous species. If you purchased the bulbs in a bag with a picture, then you have the opportunity to see the seedlings and touch them with your hands. In order for bulbous plants to produce healthy seedlings, they must be elastic to the touch and free of rot.

The note! “Some primrose lovers plant the bulbs in a pot to decorate their arbors.”

Features of caring for bulbous plants are that they require:

planting in spring;
slight moisture implies shelter from rain after planting (roofing felt or plastic cover);
sunny areas and dry soils;
digging up immediately after flowering, as they tend to die in wet soils.

If you decide to propagate a root plant and buy a seedling with a peduncle, then the old peduncle is removed, and the neighboring children are divided in half. The root should be succulent with a bunch of several roots. You can independently propagate your favorite species and transplant the children to different areas. To do this, at the beginning of September, a bush is dug up and divided with a shovel into several plots between groups of leaves. Root sections must be sprinkled with ash containing potassium, and thus protect the sections from the penetration of fungal and other diseases.

Iris seeds are placed in moist soil in February or March. Seed germination takes place at home in a container under film. The container is placed in a shaded place, and after the seeds germinate it is moved to the windowsill on the sunny side. They are transplanted into open ground with the onset of warm weather without returning frosts.

Setting the stage

When planting in open ground, it is worth considering that the vast majority of the crop loves bright places, at least in the first half of the day. It is desirable that heavy rains can flow to another place. To do this, it is preferable to build a small embankment with a slope. If groundwater is close or there is stagnation of liquid, drainage is laid out at a shallow distance. After all, the root system of “bearded” (bristly) species is horizontally level with the ground. Other varieties germinate a little deeper, but do not go too far into the ground.

Loamy soils with added sand and a slightly acidic environment provide ideal growing conditions. Sandy soils can create a risk for the plant to dry out. Then, when digging, you can add a scoop or two scoops of clay, as it attracts water. If you are breeding a capricious variety, then it will not be superfluous to add humus to the soil, as well as superphosphate and potassium fertilizers when digging. Ash, dolomite flour, lime or chalk will significantly reduce the acidity of the soil for successful transplants.

Advice! “During planting, do not add manure, otherwise you will create a barrier to the growth and development of seedlings. Nitrogen fertilizers cause active growth and flowering, so nitrogen is applied as fertilizer only in the spring for the growing season.”

Planting process

If root crops are planted in the spring, then this should be done when sprouts appear before flowering, almost immediately after the snow melts. Closely located roots can be carefully pryed up with a fork, after loosening the soil along the edge of the roots. However, you won’t have to expect flowers this year, because the plant devotes its energy to survival.

We dig a hole for planting half a meter deep for tall bushes, and less than a meter (30 cm) for border or dwarf bushes. If you set out to bury the roots deeper, the plant will either die or push them to the surface. When to plant flowers in the summer, you will be told when the buds fade. The spawned flower stalks are removed and thrown away, and the neighboring children are planted in a hole. The root collar has a slight bend. It is the convex bend that we turn to the south and, after filling it with soil, we water it thoroughly seat. Before planting, it is preferable to keep the seedlings in the sun for 2-3 days to neutralize them from diseases and increase germination. In the fall, we carry out similar machinations, not forgetting to cut off not only the flowering shoots, but also the leaves with an angular cut from the edge to the middle. Thus, keeping vitality roots. So you have learned how to plant irises correctly.

Care after planting

3-4 days after planting, the plants need to be watered with water and covered with dry soil. Weeding from weeds will create space for the roots and conditions for vegetation.

Growing irises is not complete without protecting the young from frost. After autumn planting, all planting holes are mulched with spruce branches, peat or sawdust on the eve of frost. Groups of leaves in the form of a fan are cut into a “house” and the trimmings are burned for the purpose of disinfection from pests and infections. No additional fertilizing is required before winter. If, with the right approach, the plant still blooms, it means you have a capricious variety. Do not rush to throw it away, but with patience, wait 2 or 3 years, and then the bush will bloom profusely every year for a long time.

Pests and diseases

As you may have guessed, your plant does not require additional care, but sometimes due to high humidity or transmission of infection to other plants, it can become infected.

The more unusual the variety, the more susceptible it is to disease. There are not many of them, but future gardeners need to know about them:

rot can affect the root or part of it. In case of partial damage, carefully cut out the infected area, sprinkle with ash and fry in the sun. If the plant is completely affected by rot, we throw out the root to avoid transferring the rot to other plants. We treat the soil and other roots with a solution of foundationazole in a 2% ratio;
rust and leaf spots are removed by spraying 1% Bordeaux mixture. The procedure is carried out in the spring before the shoots appear, and in the fall after cutting off the stalks and leaves before wintering;
The cutworm is able to settle at the base of the peduncle and prevent it from developing. A solution of karbofos in a 10% ratio will cope perfectly with the pest. The treatment is carried out at the beginning of the growing season twice with an interval of 12–15 days;
thrips start in leaves and buds, preventing them from fully blooming and blooming. The leaves turn brown and dry out. Spraying with a 10% solution of karbofos will get rid of the disease;
slugs disappear on sandy loam soils. If they prevail, add sand to the soil (or pour it) and there will be much fewer slugs, since they do not like dry places. You can put a board or a wet rag, and then they will crawl under it, and you take it and throw it away or scrape the slugs and snails from the board;
The mole cricket is afraid of the chicken manure solution. It is poured on a dry day around a flower bed or along paths. The smell of marigolds repels this beetle, or pesticides intended directly for mole crickets are used;
Wireworms are not found in soil with a normal pH level, therefore, in acidic soils, neutralization is done in the form of adding ash, chalk, dolomite, and lime. Ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate will get rid of wireworms if you add them at a dose of 20–30 grams. per m 2. Loosening and weeding contribute to this procedure.

Video

Irises arouse genuine interest among both experienced gardeners and novice hobbyists. Flowers attract with unusual colors, bizarre shapes of inflorescences and a variety of heights that suit every taste - from dwarfs to giants.

anneheathen/Flickr.com

Autumn - best time For landings. It is difficult to name the exact timing of this work; it depends on the region of residence. But the landmark, dried leaves, is the same for everyone. As soon as it becomes noticeable that the leaves have dried out, the irises are dug up, cleared of soil and dried. The bulbous plants separate from their babies. Rhizomes are divided into divisions with developed rosettes of leaves.

mjs_2009 / Flickr.com

Planting material should only be healthy - no damage, rot and disease.

It is better to plant purchased irises in September or October (depending on the region). It is important here that before a steady cold snap they have time to take root (this will take a month and a half), but do not have time to grow. Therefore, we listen carefully to weather forecasters and focus on forecasts. Current weather sometimes makes significant adjustments to planting dates.

To avoid the appearance of pathogenic microbes, before planting rhizomes and bulbs are disinfected(it wouldn’t hurt to disinfect the purchased material as well). Try treating with chlorhexidine. This is one of the most effective active drugs. Treatment and dusting with ash is encouraged.

Planting irises better in the sun, shadow plantings they are contraindicated. Plants do not bloom in the shade.

Irises are different attitude to moisture. Some varieties - marsh, smooth, bristly irises, etc. love to grow in damp places. But still, most varieties are drought-resistant and do not tolerate excess moisture in the soil.

Soils for irises preferably with a neutral pH level, light, not burdened with organic matter. In addition, the soil must have good air and moisture permeability qualities.

If groundwater is close, it is worth laying a drainage layer.

The soil is prepared in advance: it is dug up, fertilized if necessary, and watered.

Mpopp/Flickr.com

Root system rhizomatous irises It is practically on the surface, so when planting it should not be buried too deep into the soil. Bearded irises are planted like this: sand is poured into a mound and the rhizome is placed on top. The bud should be level with the soil surface. Beardless ones, on the contrary, are buried a couple of centimeters into the soil.

Tall varieties are planted half a meter apart from each other; a distance of 15 cm can be given between low-growing varieties.

Sidorenko Olga / Myproplants.com

Bulbous varieties It’s more convenient to plant in some containers. It can be a basket, pot, bucket, plastic box. Don't forget about drainage holes. It’s very convenient - the bulbs are easy to detect after wilting, there is no uncontrolled growth, and it’s harder for rodents to get close to them.

The planting depth is determined by the size of the bulb. The bulb is buried in the soil by an amount equal to three of its heights.

choking sun / Flickr.com

Winter hardiness plants varies depending on the species and variety. Most irises shelter themselves for the winter. The most vulnerable– bulbous irises of Dutch, Spanish and Japanese varieties. And also rhizomatous varieties: nameless, lake, comb and tall bearded irises. Their shelter needs to be approached more responsibly.

Huge advantage autumn planting is that the very next year the irises will show themselves in all their glory, surprising with their bright and unusual flowering.

The bulbous Dutch iris can decorate any design - it is suitable for flower arrangements, decorating flower beds, arranging bouquets. The decorative properties of irises are highly valued by both gardeners and those who grow beautiful plants at home. Correct fit Dutch iris provides simple care that even novice gardeners can do. If you follow the basic rules for growing a flower, you can get excellent results 2-3 months after planting.

Most class groups of this culture are suitable for creating garden compositions. But it is Dutch irises that often become pets in indoor phytodesign. Unlike other representatives of the Iris family, they have a bulbous root system, which makes it easier to grow and reproduce in any conditions. In this issue we will get to know the class in more detail, look at photos of the most popular garden and indoor varieties, and also discuss the aspects of planting and caring for crops.

Botanical description of Dutch irises (with photos)

Let's start the botanical description with the fact that the class Dutch irises are plants with a bulbous root system that looks like a small bottle, 7 cm high. Every year, thread-like root shoots are formed from the tuber, which die off before the dormant period, even at home. From the upper part of the bulb, leaf plates are formed, narrow and sword-shaped in shape with a sharp tip and a smooth edge. Before flowering, the plant throws out a long peduncle up to 80 cm in height; it bears single flowers of bright colors. Varietal groups are divided according to the color of the buds: blue, white, purple, yellow and mix. There are plants with flowers of two colors - bicolors.

Flowering occurs in May or June; it does not last long, but is very effective, as we will notice in the photo below:

Popular varieties of bulbous irises

Dutch irises are not found in nature, as they are exclusively garden hybrids, bred in Holland. In Russia, they are often used to create garden and indoor flower arrangements, since the height of the plants is no more than 50-60 cm in the active vegetative phase. The most popular varieties of bulbous Dutch irises include the following:

"Blue Magic" (Blue variety series) - blue irises with beautiful abundant flowering, crop growth no more than 60 cm, actively used in front gardens and gardens. A distinctive feature of the culture is the bright yellow veins on the petals of the corolla. No less famous is the Silver Beauty variety with bluish-blue flowers with yellow veins.
"France Holes" - bluish-yellow bicolor flowers in pastel colors.
“Yellow Series” - small irises with yellow flowers of various types different shades.
“Ash” (in some sources ash or Purple) - plants with purple and lilac corolla petals, meet terry varieties. The Dutch Sapphire iris is very famous. “Beauty” - purple buds are decorated with unobtrusive yellow spots and veins.
“White” - a group of varieties with white buds, most often fragrant.

Irises of mixed varietal groups - mixes - have gained great popularity as garden crops. They bloom in numerous single buds of various shades. Growing Dutch irises mix is very exciting process and always with an unexpected result. It is difficult to predict how beautiful a plant of a given varietal group will be.

Planting and propagation of irises of this varietal group

Before you start planting Dutch irises, pay attention to the choice of planting material. Seed (generative) propagation is not recommended for this group of varieties, since these are hybrids that, when grown, in a similar way may not sprout or bloom only at 3-5 years of age. For this reason, Dutch irises are most often sold in gardening stores as bulbs or cuttings of rhizomes for planting. For plants to grow healthy, pay attention to the condition of the planting material and its appearance. Let's try to figure out how to choose it correctly.

Selecting bulbs for planting

When purchasing a part of a Dutch rhizome, please note that it must be a healthy, slightly dried section; most often they sell root annual growths, which are cut off when replanting or dividing the bush. The rhizome must have leaves. The middle plate should be a rich green hue, the outer ones may have a slightly brown or yellowish tone, since after cutting the sections are dried. A cut of a rhizome with a uniform texture indicates that mother plant was healthy. Axillary roots, just like foliage, are cut to 10-15 cm. Pay attention to the presence of restoration buds - they most often, like those, are formed under the fans of leaves or in the axillary root zones.

When choosing bulbs, look at its size. It should not exceed 6-7 cm in height. If it is larger, it means the plant has been overfed with fertilizers high content nitrogen. Such planting material is not recommended for growing irises, since adult plants will lack the necessary immunity to diseases.

Landing period

To plant Dutch irises using rhizome cuttings, select the period when the plant is in the dormant stage. The optimal time is the beginning of autumn - the first days of September and until the middle of the month. Before planting, prepare the soil in the area where the irises will grow. If the soil in this area is heavy and clayey, then it is dug up with the addition of medium sand and peat. Too light sandy soils are weighed down with river clay. Iris will also not be able to grow on swampy and waterlogged soils. They need to be drained and have good drainage. Nutrient organic matter should also be added before planting irises - mullein and other fertilizers work well. When digging the area, remove all rhizomes, even small ones, since when they grow, they injure the root system of the irises and take away nutrients.

The hole for planting rhizomes should be approximately twice as wide as the division. The soil is well moistened with soft water, a mound is poured into the center and the rhizome is placed with the leaves facing up. When planting, make sure that the axillary roots do not intertwine with each other. The rhizome descends to a depth of no more than 15 cm, so that there is 3-5 cm of soil to the surface of the soil. If you lower it deeper, the plant will rot. After work, mulch the planting with a layer of leaves, bark or peat. It is this layer that will retain moisture and coolness in the soil next season and will keep the planting in good condition. winter time. They are planted in approximately the same way for lush flowering.

Planting with bulbs

It's even easier to plant Dutch irises with bulbs. Before planting, the material is soaked for several hours in a fungicide solution. This is necessary to prevent the tuber from rotting underground. The dug up soil on permanent place needs to be disinfected. To do this, use a solution of manganese, which is poured onto the soil several hours before planting. It will kill all unwanted germs and harmful bacteria. Dutch iris bulbs are planted in loose, slightly moist soil at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. Next, it is covered with a small layer of soil so that the neck, like the one, looks above the surface of the earth.

To grow Dutch iris at home, you can use the same planting material. Some flower growers, to obtain indoor plant The Kasatikov family resorts to generative reproduction. The fact is that with proper care, the plant blooms faster in a pot and is no less decorative. But it is still easier to grow iris at home using bulbs or cuttings. The perennial has a compact root system that can get by with a standard pot. If it begins to grow, you can transplant the crop into a new, larger container. To grow iris, you will need a nutrient substrate based on peat, in which we will root the planting material. The plant is transplanted into a pot only when leaves appear. To do this, use deep containers with good drainage.

Caring for indoor and garden Dutch irises

A plant such as Dutch irises is a low-maintenance crop. True, when they are started, they quickly lose their neat appearance, growing and forming fruit ovaries to the detriment of flowering. Perennial garden crops are extremely rarely propagated by self-sowing, since this classification consists mainly of specimens of artificial hybridization. Both at home and in open ground, the plant feels good in a well-lit place. But, frequent sunbathing strongly influence decorative flowering. When exposed sun rays the flower dies faster. For this reason, flower growers recommend placing plantings so that they are in openwork shade most of the day.

As for watering, then Dutch varieties Irises easily tolerate drought without visible damage, but it is definitely required during the budding period. Overmoistening the soil can lead to the appearance of fungus and rotting of the bulb. To fertilize these, organic fertilizers are used - compost, humus and others. Some gardeners feed their plants with wood ash.

Numerous varieties overwinter quite calmly in open ground under covering material. To preserve plant bulbs, flower growers cover them with spruce branches, less often with polyethylene, until the cover begins to interfere with the growth of green mass. Houseplants also require a dormant period, which begins in mid-October and continues until April. At this time, Dutch irises are transferred to a cool room (temperature at least 5-7 degrees) and left to overwinter without watering. Just like garden crops, they need to be pruned - remove 2/3 of the green leaves.

garden plants, experienced flower growers If the iris is grown from a bulb, it is transferred to a cool room for the winter. But many of them overwinter quite calmly under a layer of snow and mulch.

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This is a perennial, and it would seem that caring for it does not involve much trouble. However, our readers have a lot of questions: how to plant iris correctly and how to care for it? What are the features of caring for individual varieties? What do irises suffer from and how to treat them? We decided to answer all questions regarding planting and caring for irises in one article.

Part 1. General rules for planting and care

Although the iris is considered unpretentious culture, you will need to follow simple rules for planting and care. It is also important to consider the variety and variety of the plant, since each species has its own characteristics.

Landing

How, when and where to plant irises?

Before planting irises, you need to choose the right place for planting. The groundwater level in the area should not be too high. If groundwater are still too close to the soil surface, you will need to make a drainage layer or add a layer of soil, raising the area by about 15 cm.

The plant prefers the sun, so the area should be open and well lit. In the shade, the iris does not bloom as intensely and for a long time as in the sun.

It is also important that the site is protected from winds. If such a place cannot be found, then it will be possible in the future to use supports for gartering tall plants.

It is possible to plant irises with bulbs in the ground in spring. In this case we are talking specifically about bulbous irises. As you know, irises are rhizomatous and bulbous. Planting dates in spring are from March to May, the main thing is that the soil warms up to at least 10 degrees Celsius. Flowering is likely already in June, but very often irises bloom only the next year or the flowering turns out to be quite weak.

Planting irises in autumn must come true a few weeks before frost . Better - in a month. The main thing is that the plant has time to take root before the cold weather sets in. Otherwise, freezing or even death of the crop is likely.

But most often, planting is carried out in the summer, starting in the middle. Experienced gardeners recommend landing precisely in the summer, because before winter the irises will have time to set buds, and already at the end of spring next year they will begin to bloom successfully without the risk of freezing in the winter.

Video on the topic “Planting irises with bulbs in the ground”

What kind of soil do irises like - acidic or alkaline? Not this one and not that one. Irises prefer neutral or slightly acidic soil. In acidic soil, the plant will not produce flowers and is also susceptible to bacterial disease. Therefore, if the plant is already planted on such soil, you will need to add lime, chalk or ash to it to neutralize the soil.

In addition, the plant does not like heavy soils. It is recommended to add sand, peat or compost to such soil. If there is excess peat in the soil, then the addition of organic matter will be required.

What is correct and incorrect landing? If the landing is incorrect, excessive penetration of the root system into the soil, which complicates the process of cultural development. This will negatively affect flowering. It can also cause the plant to die.

Stages of planting rhizomatous iris:

Dig a hole and make a small earthen mound in its center;
Place the central root on this hill and distribute the side roots along the sides of the hole;
When planting rhizomatous iris, you should remember that the rhizome should be almost level with the surface of the earth;
Cover the side roots with earth and compact them, and cover the central root with sand, the layer of which should not exceed 2 cm.

Stages of planting iris bulbs:

Make a hole and place the onion in it. The bottom of the onion should be at the bottom;
Cover the bulb with soil. The planting depth of an iris bulb is three times the diameter of the bulb. Usually this is about 10 cm. This is very important, otherwise the bulb located close to the surface of the soil may freeze in winter. This is especially true for heat-loving species. The deeper the bulb, the higher the chances of successful germination;
When planting, the distance between irises should be about 10 cm.

If the bulbs were purchased too early, then planting irises in pots is possible in early spring. When the soil warms up, the iris can be transplanted to the garden plot.

When will the iris bloom after planting?

If the plant was planted in autumn or summer, then flowering can be seen in the spring of next year. If planting was carried out in the spring, then it is likely that flowering will occur only after a year, although often you can enjoy flowers in the summer.

Growing from seeds

Bearded iris seeds.

How to grow irises from seeds? There are two methods for growing iris from seeds:

Sowing seeds in September;
Sowing seeds in March.

When sowing in September, there is a risk that frost will begin late, when the seeds have time to germinate. In this case, the seedling will most likely freeze.

How to store seeds until March:

Wrap the seeds in a damp cloth and place in a container;
Keep the container under the freezer;
After a month, move the container to a warm, but not too hot place;
As soon as the seeds hatch, they need to be planted in light soil with mandatory additional lighting;
In May, it is already possible to transplant the seedlings into open ground.

Important! Growing from seeds is possible only for species irises, since they retain the qualities of the mother crops.

Is it possible and how to grow irises from seeds from China? The process itself is the same as when growing from collected or purchased seeds. However, the success of growing Chinese seeds has been questioned. Most flower growers have failed to grow plants (not only irises, but also other crops) from seeds from China.

Basics of care

How to care for irises? What care do plants need after winter? How to create a culture favorable conditions growth?

Care for rhizomatous irises is minimal. After planting, it is necessary to carefully remove weeds by hand, as well as carefully loosen the soil, since the root system of the plant is located close to the surface of the earth. Subsequently, when the plant grows, weeding and loosening the soil is not necessary.

A number of care rules must be followed:

The plant needs to be watered every day in dry weather, and about 3 times a week in normal weather. Watering must be done in the evening and monitored so that drops of water do not fall on the leaves of the plant;
To prevent the wind from breaking the stems of tall irises, they need to be tied to supports;
In bulbous species it is necessary to remove old, withered leaves, and also trim the flower stalks at the end of flowering;
Fertilizers must be applied three times:
1. In spring time;
2. During the budding period;
3. Within a month after flowering ends - for bulbous plants, and for rhizomatous plants - in August.

Fertilizing in the spring should be in the form of fertilizers with a high content of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. During the budding period, the same fertilizers are required, but you need to increase the amount of potassium and nitrogen. After flowering ends, fertilizing containing phosphorus and potassium is applied.

Important! There is no need to apply fertilizer during the flowering stage.

Caring for irises after flowering includes the following steps:

Shelter for the winter;
Fertilizing the soil with mineral fertilizers;
Trimming flower stalks and stems.

How should wintering be for irises?

It is recommended to cover young specimens for the winter. This also applies to heat-loving varietal iris species. Spruce branches or dry foliage are suitable as shelter. With the arrival of spring, you should not hesitate to remove the cover, but do it as early as possible. You can also dig up bulbs of heat-loving species for the winter.

Adult specimens tolerate frosts more easily; it is not necessary to cover them.

Trimming

Pruning German or bearded iris.

How to trim:

Pruning is done at the end of flowering;
Faded flowers are removed along with the green receptacle;
You can also remove the flower stems. At the same time, it is important to preserve the leaves;
Also in the spring after winter, you can remove old, withered leaves;
All manipulations are carried out manually or using sharp scissors.

Caring for irises in the spring at the dacha includes:

Removing cover when the threat of frost has passed;
Application of fertilizing - immediately after removing the cover and during the formation of buds;
In spring, treatment for diseases is required.

Is it possible to grow irises at home?

It is possible, but for home grown better use dwarf varieties. In this case, a number of rules must be observed:

Prosperity sunlight, especially during the flowering period;
The temperature should not be higher than 20 degrees;
It is necessary to water the iris once a week, and during the flowering period, increase the frequency of watering to 3 times a week;
Fertilizing must be applied two weeks after planting, during budding and at the end of flowering;
The air must be dry.

Part 2. Nuances of cultivation

Iris includes 800 species. Some of them are successfully cultivated all over the world. All varieties are different. For example, Dutch iris is a bulbous plant, while Siberian and bearded irises are rhizomatous plants. Planting and care of all varieties have their own characteristics.

Siberian

This variety is considered the most hardy. It has a rhizome system. Growing this crop is possible not only in middle lane Russia, but also in the northern regions.

Nuances of caring for Siberian irises:

Plenty of sunshine and warmth. Sunlight is especially important when growing in northern regions;
Permeable soil that does not retain moisture with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction;
Twice feeding: at the beginning of spring and during the formation of buds;
Trimming old leaves and faded flower stalks.

The planting of Siberian irises is different. Their roots need to be buried approximately 7 cm into the soil.

Japanese or xiphoid

Japanese irises

Heat-loving and quite unpretentious plants are Japanese irises. The rules for planting and caring for this plant generally do not differ from the agricultural practices of other varieties.

Care for the xiphoid iris includes:

Adequate sunlight;
Apply fertilizing two or three times a year. It is recommended to give preference to mineral fertilizer, but organic substances should not be neglected;
Shelter for the winter is mandatory when growing crops in central Russia or in the northern regions;
Autumn pruning of leaves.

When planting, the root system must be buried approximately 6 cm into the ground so that the rhizome does not freeze in winter.

Mesh

These are bulbous crops. It is advisable to plant them early autumn period. The bulb goes deeper general rules planting bulbous plants.

Features of caring for reticulated iris:

Nutritious, permeable and light soil;
Adequate sunlight;
Proper watering. There should be no stagnation of water in the soil. Watering is required only in dry weather, and during the budding period the soil should always be moist;
Used as feeding mineral fertilizer and compost.

Dutch

Dutch iris is a bulbous plant. Their bulbs are small in size. It is recommended to plant them at the end of summer, since the bulbs do not tolerate autumn cold snaps.

Caring for bulbous Dutch iris involves:

Excess moisture in the soil is fraught with diseases, including the death of the plant; watering is required only during periods of prolonged drought;
Plenty of light;
It is recommended to dig up the bulbs after flowering.

Swamp

The marsh (water) iris differs from other species; it has its own characteristics of care. This look is ideal for decoration decorative ponds on garden plots. It is recommended to plant the variety in early autumn or at the very end of summer. At the same time, it is recommended to choose moist, or even flooded, areas for planting. This is the most common wild iris.

Nuances of caring for swamp iris:

Do not allow the soil to dry out;
Adequate sunlight;
Wind protection;
Application of fertilizing, including in the fall before preparing for winter;
Autumn pruning of leaves.

There is no need to cover marsh iris; they are frost-resistant.

Bearded

Popular variety of bearded iris Gypsy

This is one of the most popular and beautiful varieties of culture. This iris should be planted in the summer, preferably in the middle of the summer. It is important to choose the right site for planting. The soil must be permeable, since the plant cannot tolerate stagnant moisture. The soil reaction is alkaline or slightly acidic. Heavy and clayey soils are not suitable for bearded iris.

Bearded iris care includes:

Watering only in dry weather;
Plenty of light;
Trimming old leaves at the end of summer;
Shelter for the winter. It is especially necessary for tall varieties;
Fertilizing three times a year: in spring (nitrogen fertilizers), during budding (potassium-phosphorus fertilizers), in autumn (potassium-phosphorus fertilizers). Also bearded iris responds well to the addition of humus and compost.

Germanic

One of gardeners' favorite flowers is the German iris, planting and caring for which is similar to the bearded iris. It can be planted from spring to autumn. The soil must be permeable, slightly acidic or neutral. Fertilizing - three times a year, watering only during drought. The video below shows planting German iris in pots, the video is not in Russian, but everything is clear.

short

Low-growing (dwarf, border) species are a form bearded irises. They differ only in the difference in height. Their height does not exceed 40 cm, but on average they grow no higher than 20 cm. Border (low-growing) irises are perfect for framing flower beds and paths, for mixborders, and edgings; planting and caring for them is simple.

Features of planting and caring for dwarf irises:

Plants should be planted in a sunny place, in nutritious, neutral or slightly acidic soil without stagnant moisture;
When planting, you must remember that the root system of such an iris should be close to the surface of the soil, there is no need to deepen it;
Fertilizing three times a year.

Thin-leaved

This is an easy-to-care crop. It is resistant to drought and frost.

Features of planting and caring for thin-leaved iris:

The plant needs watering only during periods of drought;
Planting from spring to autumn;
Application of fertilizing according to the standard scheme;
Plenty of sunlight.

If you received bouquets of irises as a gift or cut them yourself to decorate your apartment, you will need to follow several rules so that the plants last longer in the vase. Caring for cut irises includes:

Daily replacement of water in the vase;
Periodically wash the vase in hot water;
Spraying plants;
Keep in a cool place;
Remoteness from radiators and heaters.

Part 3. Difficulties

Iris, like any other crop, can bring a lot of trouble to its owners. This is usually due to improper care of them.

Diseases

The most common diseases in bearded and other types of irises are viral and fungal infections. What should be the treatment and control of iris diseases?

Mosaic is a viral disease. It appears in the form of stripes and spots on the leaves. The virus is transmitted by aphids.

At the moment effective methods No cure for viral mosaic has been found, so preventive measures must be followed:

Remove infected seedlings immediately;
Observe the watering regime, apply fertilizers, and also treat the plant against insect pests and diseases. Such drugs as Actellik, Confidorm and others are suitable).

Bacterial rot detected by spots Brown on the leaves of the plant. The disease can be detected in the spring after wintering. It will be necessary to remove the affected areas, then treating the areas with a solution of potassium permanganate. If the disease has gone too far, it is better to destroy the affected plants and treat the soil with antibacterial agents.

The causes of bacterial rot are:

Freezing of the root system;
Excessive soil moisture;
Dense plantings;
Lack of calcium and phosphorus in the soil.

The material in the video below is about bacterial rot and ways to combat it.

Gray rot can affect either the stems and leaves or the root system. The main reason is stagnation of water in the soil. Therefore, iris should be planted exclusively in well-drained soil. The exception is the marsh iris. The cause may also be a lack of phosphorus and potassium in the soil. The disease must be treated with fungicides, and if the plants are very badly affected, it is better to destroy them.

Pests

The most common pests include the following:

Scoops;
Iris fly;
Thrips;
Medvedka;
Slugs.

Scoops- This is an extremely dangerous pest for flowers. Firstly, they eat away the base of the peduncle, as a result of which the plant turns yellow and may even die, and, secondly, the activity of cutworms leads to the development of bacteriosis. As preventative measure it is necessary to treat the plant with karbofos.

Iris fly (iris flower fly) visually similar to an ordinary fly. Because of this pest, bud diseases develop. It feeds in the buds of the crop that have not yet opened. As a result, the bud begins to rot. As a preventive measure, it is necessary to treat the iris with insecticidal preparations (Aktellik, Aktara) even at the stage of bud formation.

Iris buds infected with iris fly larvae.

About the iris fly and the fight against it - on video

Thrips- Very dangerous pests despite its miniature size. Initially, these pests settle on the leaves, which leads to their gradual drying and yellowing. Then they move to the buds. Subsequently, the buds are damaged and do not open. You can treat with karbofos with the addition laundry soap. You can also use insecticidal preparations (“Aktellik”, “Aktara”).

Medvedka- a very common pest, especially in the southern regions of Russia. It can cause irreparable damage to irises. The pest damages the root system and bulbs. You can fight mole crickets by adding crushed water to the soil. eggshells, soaked in vegetable oil. It will also be effective to flood the pest’s passages. soap solution or a solution of washing powder. Marigolds planted nearby help in the fight against mole crickets.

Slugs affect iris leaves and are also a spreader of bacterial rot. They are collected by hand, and the soil is also treated with superphosphate. For prevention, it is recommended to remove weeds around plants in a timely manner.

Problems

Often, iris owners face the following problems:

The appearance of brown or brown spots on the leaves yellow color . The reason is waterlogging of the soil or frequent precipitation. Damaged leaves must be trimmed. As a preventative measure, it is necessary to spring period a month or two before flowering, treat the crop with fungicides;
If the flower blooms sparingly and sluggishly, which means he doesn’t have enough sunlight. Also possible reason- excessive acidity of the soil;
Wrinkles on leaves- This is a temporary phenomenon caused by bad weather conditions. Does not harm the plant;
Pausing flowering may be caused by: strong growth of the root system, soil depletion, freezing of flower buds, crop damage by pests and diseases, lack of watering during drought.

These are not all the difficulties in growing irises; we will be glad to see your other questions and comments.