Carrying out the process of cutting metal and metal structures using machine tools is much simpler, safer and more comfortable than using hand tools and tools. But not every tinkerer can purchase a high-quality machine.
This is the reason that many people prefer to construct such mechanisms with their own hands, using what is in everyday life, for example, saws or grinders.
Why are cutting machines needed?
Summer cottages always require minor repairs: replace a greenhouse pole that has decayed over time, make a fence for land plot made of metal, repair a garden wheelbarrow or cart - cutting metal at a right angle or with a bevel is always necessary. Complete preparations for any metal products easier and more quickly due to the machine.
Using cutting machines, you can cut any materials: steel, cast iron, copper. Cutting is done at angles of 45º and 90º. You can make products with your own hands from pipes of all diameters. As a rule, cutting mechanisms are used for cutting semi-finished products into measured lengths.
Metal processing equipment can also be used to process other materials, eliminating the work of the cutter. Machine made with my own hands, compact, it is possible to install it under a canopy, and in winter time rearrange it to workroom.
You need a flat and hard surface with lighting. A similar corner can be found on the site of any building. All-welded and dismountable equipment designs are used. In order to reduce manufacturing costs, the device can be periodically given to neighbors for temporary use.
Cutting machine device
Any work that involves either metal or wood requires a cutting process, for which special cutting equipment is used. The application of this device is incredibly wide: from everyday needs and everyday life, to large plants and factories.
It should be noted that machines of this type are mechanisms that will allow you to perform transverse cutting of metal.
Cutting machines can cut parts from any type of metal: from copper and PVC profiles to large steel blanks. Semi-finished products can be cut straight and sharp corners. Applying cutting machine, you can use cutting pipes of large and medium diameters.
The most important mechanism of the device, its “soul,” is an electric motor and a working element – a cutting wheel, which are connected to each other through gear or belt drives. Each of these types has its own advantages. For example, the inherent easy running of the belt, resistant to various types of loads, less noisy. It can even be mounted on a massive cutting machine.
The gear train is oversized, and due to this feature it is suitable for a miniature homemade cutting unit. Therefore, in the process of purchasing a cutting mechanism, you need to look at the type of gear used.
Almost any type of machine is equipped abrasive wheels, but sometimes you come across mechanisms on which a carbide disk is installed. Moreover, all such metal saws are equipped with a vice that securely fixes the product or semi-finished product.
Video: homemade cutting machine from an angle grinder.
Homemade metal cutting machine: manufacturing instructions
A machine made with one’s own hands has an undeniable advantage: it is made to meet the requirements of a specific craftsman and the products planned for future production. To work you will need:
- 24th corner;
- 10th channel;
- pipes;
- welder;
- rolling bearings;
- electric drive;
- container for mounting an electrical circuit;
- start toggle switch;
- starting circuit;
- winding;
- drill.
Assembly progress:
- From corner No. 24 and using an angle grinder, cut the blanks onto the frame with your own hands, its dimensions are 400x600x1200 mm;
- Using a welding machine, the workpieces are welded together;
- Channel No. 10 is welded as a guide, which at the same time will add strength to the entire structure.
- Using screws, two vertical supports are secured to the channel;
- Using pipes, make a frame 400x600 mm for subsequent installation of the electric drive and shaft at the required angle;
- On the “tail” part of the frame there is a plate with a fixed electric motor. It is advisable to use an asynchronous motor, as it is unpretentious. Depending on the future purpose, you can give preference to a motor whose power will be in the range of 1.5...3 kW and “power it” from a three-phase network. If it is possible to use only a 1-phase network, select a motor with 1/3 power greater than the calculated value, connected using capacitors;
- With help lathe, make the shaft and flanges, pulley and supports. The flange must protrude by 30.32 mm.
- Install the support bearings and pulley;
- The installation of the box with the electrical circuit is carried out directly in the lower area of the frame.
- A 12 mm shaft is attached between the racks, onto which the sleeve is placed. The distance between the shaft and the bushing must be kept to a minimum and a sliding fit must be ensured.
- A rocker arm from the 10th channel (L=800 mm) is welded onto the bushing using a welding machine; the ratio of the arms of the rocker arm is 1 to 3. Its stroke is limited by a chain.
- An electric motor is installed on the short section of the rocker, and a cutting mechanism is installed on the long section.
- A belt drive is laid from the electric motor to the shaft.
Capacity price for electrical diagram, made by hand, will be slightly lower compared to purchased in hardware store. To provide power to the equipment, you need a three-pole circuit breaker, from which power is supplied to the electric motor, an emergency shutdown button and a starting circuit.
The emergency button is connected directly, the electric motor is connected using a box and an automatic machine. This will ensure complete safety and electrical protection of the equipment you make.
Based on the above, making a cutting mechanism with your own hands is not only cheaper, but also more practical, since during its manufacture you yourself adjust its parameters and make adjustments for its future operation.
Also, having done this procedure once, you can repair such equipment without any problems. Moreover, if necessary, you can earn money by making cutting equipment with your own hands.
Video: homemade metal cutting machine with your own hands.
Hello. Today I want to talk about how I made a cutting machine out of an angle grinder I didn’t need. I often have to cut pipes. Especially profile ones. Anyone who has done this knows that cutting a profile pipe straight with an angle grinder is quite difficult. This takes a lot of time - you have to use a square to draw each side at a right angle, then carefully cut one edge at a time. And still, it happens that one side turns out to be half a millimeter shorter, and then, when welding thin metal the walls in this place begin to burn due to a loose fit. Ideally, you can cut straight in just one cut. And for this you need a cutting machine.
I had an angle grinder "DWT ws-180s" that I didn't need. They gave it to me free of charge due to a malfunction - the rotor impeller came off and the angle grinder jammed. The owner wanted to throw it away and offered to give it to me for spare parts for free. I repaired the rotor, replaced the brushes and bearings.
But it turned out that I didn’t need such an angle grinder. It is very heavy and massive for the 180th lap. There is enough power there for the 230th (2200 W), but for some reason the manufacturer equipped it with protection specifically for the 180th circle. That's why it hung in my workshop for several years unclaimed - I have a lighter "180". I was going to remake the protection for the 230th circle (then it will be useful for working on concrete, for example), but I never got around to it!)))). After all, I also have a 230...
And so the idea came to me to buy a bed for it and make a stationary cutting machine. But having examined the purchased options, I discovered that they, for the most part, do not have sufficient rigidity, and therefore accuracy! Therefore, I came to the conclusion that I need to do it myself.
What I needed:
1. The actual angle grinder.
2. Steel angle 50 by 50 and 40 by 40.
3. Trimming water pipe DU32-3.5
4. Cutting a water pipe DU-25
5. Bearing 6202 (2 pcs)
6. Support bearing.
7. M14 hairpin.
8. Profile pipes 15 by 15, 20 by 20, 25 by 25
9. Bolts and nuts M6, M8, M14.
10. Tin scraps.
So, to begin with, I decided to assemble the angle grinder mount. In purchased versions, designed for various angle grinders, fastening is carried out by three long bolts with lock nuts, which affects rigidity. In addition, having secured the angle grinder at three points, it has to be positioned vertically, which slightly “steals” the cutting depth - as a rule, the gearbox housing is slightly elongated in front. Therefore, I decided to fasten it horizontally, at two points, with a tight fit of the frame to the gearbox.. The disadvantage of this fastening is that it only fits one model of angle grinder. But I decided to ignore this, figuring that if I had to replace the angle grinder, I would simply weld a new mount.))))
I cut two pieces of 50 angle:
I drilled holes in them with a diameter of 14 mm:
And screwed it to the gearbox using the handle attachment points:
At the same time, I did not have M14 bolts, and I temporarily replaced them with trimmed studs with nuts. In order to tighten and hold them, I had to cut slots for a screwdriver:
After that, I welded the corners together directly on the grinder, then removed them and welded them tightly:
Next I started making the carriage. For this I needed a piece of thick-walled 32-gauge pipe. Since I needed to cut evenly, and I didn’t have a cutting machine at hand yet, I used wide masking tape as a marking:
After that, I cut out a piece of DU-25 pipe, 20 mm shorter than 32:
I put one inside the other:
I scored on both sides on the 202nd bearing:
And tightened it with an M14 stud, using washers and nuts:
Then I cut out a piece of the corner and grabbed it to the pipe. At the same time, I burned the outer pipe with an electrode so as to weld it with the inner one:
Now we need to make stands for attaching the carriage. I made them from the same corner 50. To make them the same, I tightened them with a clamp, and in this position I cut and drilled holes:
Next, I assembled and welded the entire mounting structure of the carriage:
I made the rods on which the angle grinder will be attached to the carriage from a thick-walled profile pipe 20 by 20. I calculated their optimal length experimentally, laying out a diagram of the future machine from pipes and bars:
All that remains is to cut and weld everything together:
At this stage I “tried on” the grinder:
Now it's the table's turn. I made it from a sheet of steel, 4 mm thick, measuring 60 by 60 cm:
I attached the entire structure to this sheet:
I made two square frames from a 15 by 15 profile pipe, measuring 50 by 50 cm. At the same time, in the pipe, at the bends, I cut only three walls, leaving the fourth.
After that I welded it in the corners vertical racks from the same pipe, and attached my structure to the resulting parallelepiped.
On at this stage There was a need to set a right angle between the cutting wheel and the table. As I already said, I excluded all adjustments for the sake of rigidity (read: accuracy) of the design. My plans were to simply bend the rods and then strengthen them in the desired position by welding corners to them as reinforcement. But, when I tried to bend them first with two montages... (Oooh! What an optimist I am!)))). Then with a crowbar! (The result is the same)..... I realized that there is no need to strengthen the structure!! Two thick-walled profile pipes of short length, moreover, welded at the ends to the corners with seams 5 cm long on each side, provide incredible rigidity! ...
I was able to bend it only by inserting a two-meter (!) pipe between them, with a cross-section of 60 by 20. (Fortunately, there is just 60 mm between the rods.
So, the vertical is set! Now I cut through the table:
After that, I widened and lengthened the slot with a small grinder. (In case of installing, for example, a circle on wood.)
By the way...Initially I had the idea to make a “2 in 1”. That is, provide for the possibility of turning the table with the grinder down in order to obtain a circular saw! And I even started to implement it. For example, the heads of all mounting bolts with reverse side I boiled, melted and cleaned to get a smooth circular table:
For the same reason, I made symmetrical holes for the fastening bolts with which the table is attached to the “parallelepiped”... But the euphoria from the fact that “I came up with a cool idea” passed, and I realized that I was just “fallen” and was not chasing practicality , and for “it turned out great.”))))))
But in reality I WILL NOT USE THIS!!! After all, I have a circular. And, in any case, it is better than one made from an angle grinder! In addition, when working with wood with a circular saw, it is good to place this machine next to a wood circle for trimming. Instead of turning the table over for each board...
In general, I threw away this stupid idea....
..
Next I started building a support for the workpiece. I applied the square to the circle, drew a line at a right angle, and secured a 40 by 40 stop angle along it.
After that, I unscrewed the corner and, using its holes, this time applying a 45-degree square, drilled a hole in the table.
I forgot to take a photo, but I think it’s clear here... Now, to cut it at 45, you need to remove one bolt, turn the corner and secure it in another hole.
Next stage. I started assembling the tool vise. After all, you can accurately cut only a well-fixed workpiece. I cut out a piece of pipe 20 by 20.
I inserted a piece of M14 stud inside and tightened it with nuts. At the same time, I took one long connecting nut:
I welded it.
And I processed it with a grinder, giving it the outer dimensions of the pipe:
Then I cooked some more, where there was not enough and processed it further. (did not take photos).
Then I cut out a piece of the 25 pipe (the 20 fits into it easily and quite tightly) and welded a piece of strip across it so that I could drill holes and fix it to the table. This will be the guide:
I made a hole at the edge of the stud and made a handwheel there.
Next, I attached a corner with a hole to the edge of the table and assembled the vice. I screwed the stud into the pipe with a welded nut, put a guide on it, and passed it all through the stop angle, placing a support bearing, which is fixed with a cottered nut: In short, you’ll understand from the photo:
I made the handwheel handle from a furniture bolt and put a metal tube on it.
I made a wide stop at the end. And this is how the tool vise turned out:
When the handwheel rotates, the pipe with the welded nut comes out of the guide and tightly presses the workpiece against the stop. The only inconvenience is that you need to rotate to the left.))). But more reliable than an eccentric clamp.
Next, I started making protective casing. As I already said, the casing on the angle grinder was for the 180th circle, and I decided to use the 230th. (There is enough power. The speed is also suitable.). In addition, since I need accuracy, I will cut with thick circles (2.6 or 3 mm). Because the thinner ones wobble a little when pressed. And therefore the number of sparks will be incredible!!! Therefore, I decided to make the most closed casing and attach it directly to the frame.
First I made a template out of cardboard.
An indispensable tool in the home workshop, metalwork shop, and construction site. Many industrial models of these tools are produced, but their price is sometimes unaffordable not only for a private craftsman, but also for a small enterprise. There is a solution - it’s not at all difficult to make a metal cutting machine with your own hands. This requires only certain skills in working with a welding machine, plumbing tools, and some qualifications as an electrician. You also don’t need anything scarce or unavailable for free sale from materials.
To work you will need:
- Bulgarian;
- welding machine;
- drill;
- set of dies, taps, wrenches.
Will have to buy Electrical engine power 1.5-2 kW single-phase or three-phase. In addition, you will need two pulleys, a shaft, bearings 204 or 205, a metal corner, and sheet steel 2-4 millimeters thick. When all this is assembled, the actual production of the machine begins.
You can make the drawings yourself using material from the Internet, or use ready-made ones, such as these. But experience shows that it is best to adapt the drawings to the materials that you have available. As a rule, DIY designs work best when you “customize” them to suit you. Naturally, in this case, certain rules and requirements must be observed that apply to a high-risk tool, such as a cutting disc machine or a pendulum saw, both homemade and industrial.
Most do-it-yourself metal cutting machines are of the pendulum type. more complex to manufacture, but they can be made in a small workshop or metalworking shop. For now, let's focus on the most convenient type of cutting machine - a disk one. General design can be seen in the video.
It consists of several main components:
- electric motor;
- pendulum;
- drive mechanism;
- cutting disc;
- desktop.
Let's look at them separately.
Engine
Depending on the required power of the metal-cutting machine and the scope of its use, we select the engine power. It should be in the range of 1.5-3 kW. If you plan to use a cutting machine in a home workshop, a small metalworking shop, where cutting profile pipes, fittings, angles or other rolled products is done relatively rarely, and thin-walled metal is used as workpieces, a power of one and a half kilowatts will be enough. For small-scale production, work on a construction site, or the manufacture of frames for any purpose, more than powerful engine.
If you have a three-phase motor with a power of about 3 kilowatts, it can be connected to 220 volts using a star circuit instead of a delta circuit. But it must be taken into account that its power will decrease by 25-30%. The main thing is that the speed indicated on the nameplate will be maintained.
To install on a metal cutting machine, the engine must have a speed of 2500-3000 per minute. This is due to the fact that it is at these speeds that the cutting disc operates optimally.
For a homemade metal cutting machine, circles with a diameter of 300-400 millimeters are used. Here, too, you need to proceed from the needs of production. For too much large diameter There is no point in chasing the disk - the farther the working edge is from the center, the less cutting force, and a more powerful engine will be required. The optimal ratio of engine power and disc diameter is 2 kilowatts at three thousand revolutions and 300 millimeters in diameter.
A self-made metal cutting machine must first of all be safe. The cutting discs indicate maximum amount speeds at which they can be operated. As a rule, it should not exceed 4400 rpm. If it turns out more, the disk may collapse, which is unsafe. If the number of revolutions is less than 3000, then the cutting speed will be insufficient, and the disk will overheat and wear out. It is these figures that should be taken as the starting point for calculating the power transmission.
Drive unit
It is most convenient to use a belt drive as a drive mechanism. To do this you will have to find two pulleys of the same diameter. One of them is mounted on the motor shaft, the second - on the drive shaft of the cutting disc. The disk shaft is mounted on two bearings. It is best to use the scheme when the drive mechanism is located on the left of the disk mounting cloud. It’s more convenient to work this way, and safety rules are followed. The disc fastening nut will not be at risk of loosening.
To tension the drive belt, the engine is mounted at the rear of the pendulum with 4 bolts located in longitudinal slots. It can shift in the direction of the central axis of the machine (perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the motor shaft) by 5-7 centimeters. This will maintain the required belt tension and prevent it from slipping. It will also be easier to replace the belt if the previous one becomes unusable.
Console (pendulum)
The cantilever part of a metal cutting machine is one of the most important. In addition to the fact that it must be carefully balanced, securely welded in compliance with all the required dimensions, it must also move strictly perpendicular to the work table. The basis for mounting the pendulum are two vertical posts with slots for the pendulum bushing (diameter 10-12 mm). It is best to make them from a steel square of 40x40 millimeters. The height is approximately 80-100 millimeters, but you can calculate your own version.
A bushing shaft is installed horizontally in the holes of the racks, to which a rocker arm is welded, consisting of two levers, the ratio of which is one to three. A platform for installing the electric motor is welded on the short arm. On the long arm there is a drive shaft cutting wheel. The ratio of the lengths of the levers is approximate; it must be calculated so that in the non-working position the weight of the engine outweighs the weight of the assembled saw part (with protective covers). To bring the disk of the switched-on machine into contact with the metal, it is necessary to apply a small but noticeable force.
For ease of operation, a return spring is attached to the bottom of the engine platform, and the upward deflection angle of the pendulum is adjusted by a cable or chain, fixed at one end to the table and the other to the bottom of the long lever.
Desktop
Optimal sizes 700x1000x900 mm. It is welded from a 25x25 mm corner and covered with a steel sheet 3-4 mm thick, in which slots are made in the rotation zone of the disk. A rotary stop and a clamp with a rotary clamp are fixed on the table. This allows you to cut both perpendicularly and at the required angle. Very interesting option homemade machine is shown in the video. Here it is not the workpiece that turns, but the console with the disk and the motor.
Mount the cutting machine disk type for a qualified locksmith is not particularly difficult. It is important to adhere to some fundamental requirements:
- correctly calculate the disk rotation speed;
- adjust the angle of rotation, it must be strictly perpendicular to the plane of the desktop;
- set the force for feeding the disk into the cutting zone;
- install an emergency stop button on the handle;
- equip the cutting machine with protective covers for the disk and rotating parts.
Section: Machines and tools
The goal of our work will be to make a cutting machine with our own hands. There is no need to describe how useful and necessary such equipment is in the work of any craftsman. and just on the farm.
We will start manufacturing from the frame-frame, its dimensions 700*1000*900 mm.
A 25*25 mm corner would be an excellent material for the frame; we cut the blanks with a grinder and weld them. We weld channel No. 10 to the upper plane of the frame at a distance of 70 mm from the edge, to which, in turn, two vertical posts made of a 40 * 40 mm square are attached with bolts.
The racks are connected by a #216 12 mm shaft with a sleeve fitted (to avoid end movements of the disk, the shaft-bushing connection is made with a sliding fit with minimal clearance). A rocker arm from the same channel No. 10 measuring 800 mm is welded to this bushing, and in such a way that the arms are in a ratio of 1:3.
The electric motor is mounted on the smaller part of the rocker, the working shaft is mounted on the larger part, and the transmission of motion will be carried out using a belt drive.
Now about the electric motor. Preference should be given to asynchronous motors, as they are more reliable and durable. Practice shows that for normal operation with a cutting disc #216 400 mm, a “three-thousander” with a power of 2.2 kW, powered from a three-phase network, is ideal. One and a half thousand will do, but gear ratio The belt drive must be selected so that the shaft has about 6000 rpm. In case of power supply single-phase network. The engine power should be increased by 30% and operating and starting capacitors should be used.
We order the working shaft with supports, flanges for the disc and a pulley for the “A” type belt to a turner, and the flange protrusion should be #216 32 mm. In this case, it will be possible to install both a cutting disc and a saw blade for wood on the machine. Both the motor and the shaft are secured to the shaft using M10 bolts and nuts.
The stroke of the rocker arm is limited by the chain, and springs are installed on the engine side to facilitate return (for example, from a sports expander). Fastening chains and springs using bolts.
The table is made from planed boards 40-50 mm thick and covered with plywood or USB to smooth out small irregularities.
And further important point . When installing the shaft, you should install the saw blade and carefully check the perpendicularity of the planes of the blade and the table. If necessary, the position of the shaft must be leveled by using shims on the shaft bearing supports.
And finally, the last thing. DO NOT FORGET to provide disk protection.
The disk operates at high speeds, abrasive and metal particles may fly out, and if used saw blade with carbide tips, last offset. Disk protection is required!
What is needed for a cutting machine
Watch the video: Cutting machine for metal. Do it yourself. (Homemade cutting machine for metal.)
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Do-it-yourself cutting machine from an angle grinder - convenience and practicality!
The grinder is a very useful and versatile tool. With its help you can cut metal, stone, tiles and, of course, grind surfaces, but sometimes it is much easier and more accurate to perform these works stationary machine. Luckily, you can make your own grinder cutter!
Homemade machine for an angle grinder - pros and cons
If you have to hold an angle grinder in your hands quite often, you have probably already experienced its disadvantages. The weaknesses of the tool stem from its main advantage - mobility. Firstly, it is not always possible to secure parts during cutting, and their slightest vibration can lead to destruction abrasive disc, which in turn is fraught with serious injuries.
Secondly, with a mobile version of the tool it is quite difficult to control the precise perpendicularity of the cut, take into account the thickness of the disk in relation to the mark and the material being cut, and even hold it if necessary. Thirdly, it is quite difficult with a tool to cut several parts of the same size, especially when it comes to twigs and small pipes - after cutting you also have to trim the parts.
And, of course, keeping both hands busy and extremely tiring concentration when working, since an angle grinder is one of the most dangerous tools. Just look at the kickback – the sudden kickback of the tool when the rotating abrasive disc gets jammed in the workpiece. The danger of a kickback lies not so much in the throwing of the tool, but in the concomitant destruction of the circle. At such high speeds, abrasive fragments can seriously injure the operator.
The kickback occurs especially often when a cut is completed, when only a small bridge connects the parts. In this case, it is recommended to stop the tool without cutting the workpiece to the end, remove the circle and cut the part from the reverse side. A cutting machine that you can construct with your own hands from enough available materials, is able to solve all of the above problems and provide additional security.
Making a cutting machine is a simple option
Find finished machine on store shelves that at first glance satisfies your needs is a fairly simple task. But it is unlikely that there will be a design that fully meets all the requirements, because everyone’s requirements are different! In such cases, owners of machine tools try to improve or remodel them, but are faced with very serious obstacles - either the manufacturers made the machine from alloys that are very difficult to work with by welding, or they did not take into account the little things that you need specifically - for example, an accurate ruler or a more elastic spring. Remaking someone else's is much more difficult than making your own!
The simplest homemade machine for a small grinder can be made with your own hands at a minimum of cost and in just a few hours! The finished structure will be a long metal pipe that serves as both a frame and a handle. Closer to one end, a transverse metal strip with two holes for fastening the grinder is welded.
On the same side, the pipe is attached to one side of a small piece of angle on a movable shaft, while the other side of the angle itself is attached either to the work table, or simply to the floor in the garage! It is important to fix a spring on the opposite side of the mount, which will allow the entire structure to return to its original position. That's all - the machine is ready, you just need to secure the angle grinder correctly. Of course, this option is for the most simple work, for more precise and complex procedures it is necessary to make a more complex structure.
Do-it-yourself cutting machine from an angle grinder - for precision work!
To make a cutting machine you will need the following materials and tools: steel angle, profile pipe, a sheet of metal for the platform (or a lighter chipboard version), a welding machine, a channel, a drill, a shaft, several identical bearings, a small diameter pipe, a spring, as well as a relay and pedal. Welding, if you think about it, can be replaced with strong bolts - that's why you need a drill. By the way, this option will also allow you to disassemble the machine if necessary.
How to make a cutting machine from a grinder with your own hands - step-by-step diagram
Step 1: Parts and drawing
The manufacture of the machine should begin with cutting parts onto the frame. To prevent damage to expensive material, carefully study the numerous drawings that can be found on the Internet or follow the models on the shelves. In the latter case, draw up a drawing yourself; you don’t need any special skills for this - the main thing is to present the finished structure and its proportions on paper. Each grinder needs its own drawing, because tools from different manufacturers can differ radically - in some places you can remove the handle, in others you’ll have to come up with a stand for the entire grinder! Plus, different disk sizes require different frames.
Step 2: Frame
The simplest frame consists of two frames on a common axis. The lower frame should be fixed to a platform - metal or chipboard. If the grinder is large, it is better to use metal. The upper frame, to which the angle grinder is screwed, should rotate vertically relative to the lower one, like a pendulum. A spring is needed to fix the original position. A fastening is welded to the lower frame, which consists of a clamping angle and a movable clamp.
Step 3: Ruler
It is very important to provide measuring parts in the machine, thanks to which you can cut workpieces with an accuracy of up to 1 mm. In this case, a movable ruler with a limiter welded to the tube is best suited. Having set the exact size using it and secured with an end screw, you can get to work!
Step 4: Electronics
For ease of operation, provide in the design a start pedal or button with switching through a low-voltage 12 V relay. Through it, voltage will be supplied to the angle grinder. With the help of such a simple design, we free up our hands, achieve an accurate, even cut without using a vice, and also save time on accurate measurements. This tool will replace a cutting saw for metal, and if necessary, you can always return the angle grinder to its mobile state.
Do-it-yourself grinder machine - safety first!
When working with an angle grinder, stationary or manual, you should always remember safety. In the case of a stationary option, you need to take into account the direction of the tool and the position of the protective casing - it is important that the casing completely hides the area in which the operator is located. If you have a machine, you will probably have a desire to use the tool for other purposes than for its intended purpose - for example, attach a saw blade for wood to an angle grinder, which is absolutely forbidden to do!
Wood is a heterogeneous material; it may contain knots or even nails. The rotation speed of the grinder significantly exceeds the set speed of a standard sawmill, which will very quickly render the saw blade unusable.
But, besides this, unlike abrasive and grinding discs, saws have sharp teeth that pose a high danger. Risking your health for a quick cut is simply unreasonable. After installing the tool and the new disk, the operation of the grinder should be checked for at least 1 minute at idle speed - the circle should rotate completely freely, without excessive vibration, without touching the casing.
Leave the solution for 5-6 hours. Then the foam will separate and rise up, leaving liquid below. You need to carefully drain this liquid and spread it on the painting in several layers. After each layer the painting must dry completely. Then you can hang the picture and forget about it for half a year or a year. Then the painting should be washed with water. After this, you can safely coat the picture with varnish.
How to pour sugar into a glass: In order to pour sugar into a glass, you need to take a spoon, scoop it up, bring it to the cup and pour it out! ?
Do-it-yourself cutting machine from an angle grinder
DIY Milling Machine Drawings
Video on how to make your own metal cutting machine from an angle grinder
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If you have to hold an angle grinder in your hands quite often, you have probably already experienced its disadvantages.
The weaknesses of the tool stem from its main advantage - mobility. Firstly, it is not always possible to secure parts during cutting, and the slightest vibration can lead to destruction of the abrasive disc, which in turn can lead to serious injuries.
Secondly, with a mobile version of the tool it is quite difficult to control the precise perpendicularity of the cut, take into account the thickness of the disk in relation to the mark and the material being cut, and even hold it if necessary.
Thirdly, it is quite difficult to use a tool to cut several parts of the same size. especially when it comes to twigs and small pipes - after cutting you also have to trim the parts.
And, of course, keeping both hands busy and extremely tiring concentration when working, since an angle grinder is one of the most dangerous tools.
Just look at the kickback – the sudden kickback of the tool when the rotating abrasive disc gets jammed in the workpiece. The danger of a kickback lies not so much in the throwing of the tool, but in the concomitant destruction of the circle. At such high speeds, abrasive fragments can seriously injure the operator.
The kickback occurs especially often when a cut is completed, when only a small bridge connects the parts.
In this case, it is recommended to stop the tool without cutting the workpiece to the end, remove the circle and cut the part from the reverse side. A cutting machine, which you can construct with your own hands from fairly accessible materials, can solve all of the problems listed above and provide additional safety.
2 Making a cutting machine - a simple option
Video on the topic
Finding a ready-made machine on store shelves that at first glance satisfies your needs is a fairly simple task.
But it is unlikely that there will be a design that fully meets all the requirements, because everyone’s requirements are different! In such cases, owners of machine tools try to improve or remodel them, but are faced with very serious obstacles - either the manufacturers made the machine from alloys that are very difficult to work with by welding, or they did not take into account the little things that you need specifically - for example, an accurate ruler or a more elastic spring.
Remaking someone else's is much more difficult than making your own!
Grinder cutting machine
Having worked a lot with an angle grinder, I came to the conclusion that this useful tool can be used more efficiently.
And this is what I came up with for this.
■ It is difficult to cut several parts of the same length from small pipes, rods, etc.
Trimming takes extra time, and each time you have to set a new mark.
■ It is necessary to constantly monitor the perpendicularity of the cutting, take into account the thickness of the disk in relation to the tube and mark, so that there is no error.
■ Vibration of the part during cutting leads to destruction of the disk in a matter of seconds.
By converting a hand tool into a stationary one, I eliminated the listed disadvantages.
The machine consists of two frames on a common axis (photo 1, 2).
The bottom one was rigidly fixed to a chipboard slab. (Fig. 1).
403 Forbidden
The upper one, with the angle grinder B screwed on, rotates vertically, like a pendulum, relative to the lower one (Fig. 2). The initial position of the tool is fixed by a tension spring.
To lower the cutting disc, I press the grinder handle down. When released, the cutting part returns back.
A dismountable fastening unit consisting of a movable clamp and a clamping angle is welded to the lower frame (photo 3).
Below is a movable measuring ruler with a limiter, welded to the tube.
Having locked the bar with an end screw, I set the size only once (with an accuracy of 1 mm), after which I cut the required number of absolutely identical parts of any size - right down to the rings.
I start the machine with a pedal with switching through a low-voltage relay (12 V), which with its powerful contacts supplies 220 V to B. Accordingly, neither the pedal nor the wire located on the ground, even if the insulation is damaged, pose a danger to humans.
I install, remove and fix B using a clamp that is used on top covers boxes for storing and transporting equipment (such as pads). The weight and dimensions of the machine allow it to be transported in a box of a passenger car.
Advantages of development
■ No need for a vice
■ Produces a very even cut
■ The pedal frees up your hands
DIY cutting machine
I plan to weld the frame of the stairs to the second floor and for maximum accuracy of cuts at an angle I need a cutting machine.
I started to take a closer look at them, but somehow the prices are not very childish, and there is little use for them on the farm in the future. At the insistence of those surveyed, the option of installing a cutting wheel for metal in miter saw on the tree, was discarded.
I decided to pay attention to devices for grinders.
I looked at different options, the price varies from 300 to 600 thousand, but in all of them I did not like the longitudinal play.
Because of this play, there may be a deviation in the angle of up to 5 degrees. How lucky is that? After some thought, I decided to build such an adapter myself. It was a pity to waste 300 thousand on it.
What I needed:
* Bulgarian
* welding machine
* clamps
The materials used were second-hand iron, 3 bolts f 16 were purchased to fasten the angle grinder, and friends suggested a carriage from a bicycle.
As a result, personal time was spent - it is priceless
4800 for three bolts from speculators
10,000 for cutting wheels
Well, about a dozen electrodes and a couple of kilowatts of electricity.
After wallpapering: After gluing the walls in the room with wallpaper, you should not leave the room to ventilate, as the pasted wallpaper will begin to fall off or become covered.
To keep nails at hand: Sometimes we put nails or screws in our mouth, in our pocket, or simply hold them in our hand. It is much better to hang a magnet around your neck. They will be securely held on it in any quantity and your hands and mouth will be free
Homemade vulcanizer - production and use
If you have a punctured tire, the easiest option is to go to a tire shop. However, there are many who like to do everything themselves, and a tire service is not always nearby. Sometimes the costs associated with going to a tire shop (travel, time, the procedure itself) add up to a substantial amount, especially if you have to use this service often.
In general, for various reasons, for those who want to fix breakdowns at home, I offer several options making a homemade vulcanizer with minimal costs. Using a homemade vulcanizer, for example made from an iron, you can quickly and reliably repair cars, motorcycles and bicycle tubes, air mattress, heating pads, various pacifiers, inflatable toys, etc.
One of the most common options for a homemade vulcanizer is the option using an old iron.
The reason for this is new, more functional irons, and old (Soviet) irons in working condition (if you don’t have any left) will not be difficult to find from a neighbor. Here's a free basic vulcanizer part for you.
Below are a few designs. Which one to choose is up to you, the basic idea is the same, the difference is how to ensure a clamp connection at the place where the rubber product is vulcanized.
Raw rubber is soaked (for some time) in gasoline, the size is slightly less than the size of a patch.
The puncture site is treated with sandpaper (the size is generous) and wiped with gasoline. A patch is cut from tube rubber, the edges are rounded. The patch is also treated with sandpaper and then with gasoline. Next: put raw rubber on the hole, put a patch on it, clamp everything in our vulcanizer. You can place a piece of newspaper to prevent the rubber from sticking to the vulcanizer plate.
Wait until water comes into contact with the vulcanizer (15-20 minutes). Turn off the vulcanizer, wait a little, remove the vulcanizer, and let the rubber cool. They also check the temperature using granulated sugar: if its grains in contact with the hot vulcanizer begin to melt and turn yellow, then it’s time to turn off the vulcanizer.
If your thermostat is working, set it to 150 degrees. (approximately for ironing silk). The thermostat can be adjusted experimentally. If the smell of burnt rubber appears, this is a sign high temperature if the patch has not merged well (vulcanized) - a sign of insufficient temperature or short vulcanization time.
After one or two times everything becomes clear and vulcanization can be started :)
For more specific work, you will need a simple mold, which is made from two steel plates 6-8 mm thick and 40X60 mm in size. Four holes are drilled in the corners and an M4 thread is cut to tighten the halves with screws.
The inner edges of the plates are slightly ground down so that the edges do not cut into the rubber. In the case of a complex configuration of the parts being repaired, the plates are given the appropriate shape or additional holes and grooves are made.
Before starting work, thoroughly clean the area to be treated (the edges of the pasties are cut at an angle of 45°) and degrease with light gasoline (B-70).
A patch is then applied to the area being repaired. the right size made of raw rubber, placed in a mold and tightened tightly with screws. By placing it on a heated iron so that the entire plane of the lower half of the mold touches the heating surface, wait for 10-15 minutes.
During operation, make sure that the rubber does not touch the hot parts of the iron.
Grooves for gluing beads are drilled with the halves of the mold tightened, and the diameter of the drill should be equal to the diameter of the bead. You can drill several holes in one mold for different diameters of beads, but the distance between them must be no less than the thickness of the workpiece.
Otherwise, heating of the gluing area will be uneven and the quality of vulcanization will deteriorate.
Cleaning the gluing areas or trimming the ends of the bead is done immediately before work, and the raw rubber is applied in a thin layer - this will make the connection stronger.
Diagram of a vulcanizer with an integrated clamp
Vulcanizing iron: 1 - clamp bracket, 2 - boss, 3 - clamping screw, 4 - clamping heel, 5 - electric iron.
Cut a bracket from five-millimeter steel (see Fig.
figure), weld a cylindrical boss to it on top, and a strip of metal 50 mm wide along the inside. The cross-section of the resulting clamp should have T-shape. Drill a hole along the axis of the boss and cut a thread in it for the clamping screw. Then bolt the iron body to the bottom of the clamp - and the vulcanizer is almost ready.
The simplest option vulcanization with iron- no modifications at all.
Raw rubber is applied to the cleaned area of the rupture, then paper and everything is pressed on top with an iron.
Some weight is placed on the iron. Vulcanization lasts 10-15 minutes, iron temperature 140-150 °C (thermostat in “silk” position). Since the exact temperature of the iron is unknown, care must be taken not to burn the rubber.
A burning rubber smell will indicate that the heat is too high.
Another option homemade vulcanizer made from an electric stove and a clamp
Based on the dimensions (diameter and height) of the ceramic base from a household electric stove with an open spiral, a welded heater body is made from iron 5 mm thick.
Four rod legs and a clamp are welded to its walls. You insert a ceramic element with a spiral into the body, on which, to prevent its contact with the metal, you need to put a gasket made of sheet asbestos.
From below, the electric heater is closed with an iron cover using two bolts.
Main details of a homemade vulcanizer:
1 - body; 2 - bottom cover; 3 - asbestos gasket; 4 — ceramic base with nichrome spiral; 5 - power cord.
A bimetallic thermostat from a regular iron, complete with a signal lamp and its resistance, is attached to the upper surface of the housing, near the clamp.
The electrical circuit of the vulcanizer is similar to that of an iron. By monitoring the surface temperature of the vulcanizer plate with a mercury or other thermometer, the regulator is adjusted so that it turns off the heating element at a temperature of about 140-150°C.
DIY metal cutting machine
At the same time, the signal light goes out, which indicates that the vulcanizer is turned off. The heating time depends on the power of the heating coil.
And the last option is a traveling one that does not require electricity, which can be very useful in case of troubles along the way.
This homemade vulcanizer, made using a piston from a motorcycle or car engine, which requires only 40-50 grams of gasoline to use.
The vulcanizer is easy to manufacture and includes only a few parts:
1 - vulcanizer base
2 - bolts
3 - beam
4 - piston
5 - self-tapping screws
6 - nuts
7 — holes for self-tapping screws
8 — holes for bolts
Base 1 is made of wood, since wood does not interfere with good heating of the rubber.
Bolts 2 are inserted into the holes in the base and secured to the base using self-tapping screws 5, preventing them from turning in the hole in the base. . The bolts are made of a metal rod with a diameter of 12 mm. A washer is welded at one end of the rod, and an M12 thread is cut at the other.
A beam is placed on both bolts on the thread side, which, using nuts, presses the vulcanizer piston to the base.
The damaged chamber is placed between the base and the piston.
Materials and design can be changed - only the principle of operation is important.
To repair the camera, you need to find the damage, clean it, and wipe it with clean gasoline. Then install a patch of raw rubber on the damaged area and cover it with a piece of newspaper, and place a piston on top. We press the piston using the rack with nuts. Pour gasoline into the piston and release a small piece of rag into the gasoline.
We set fire to the gasoline and after all the gasoline has burned, we give time for the piston to cool completely. Only after this do we remove the piston.
The repair of the damaged camera has been completed. The patch looks the same as after a regular vulcanizer - reliable and durable, does not require repeated repairs.
If you are interested in making a homemade winch
Repair it yourself and, as they say, “not a nail…”
DIY metalworking machines
For each company (factories, plants) the most important is the air supply, as well as water cooling, which is necessary in each technological process. For this purpose, special systems with fans are used.
DIY metal cutting machine
Various pumps and fans are DIY metalworking machines for stabilizing the temperature process in production. Special machines control power consumption and absorb noise effects.
We use scales for every food retailer. Modern scales are automatic device, which accurately measures the weight of the product. The device is equipped with a display and a special keyboard, which allows you to set service rates gas equipment 2016 and display necessary information for the seller and the buyer.
You can control the leveling from a power source or charge it from a battery (portable version).
In any office or company they support optimal temperature air and air exchange using special devices. This is necessary to organize a convenient workflow. Among various devices We use equipment for mini-smokers: covers, air conditioners of various modifications, ventilation shafts with natural and artificial cooling.
Ventilation can be exhaust, inlet or mechanical.
Important: do-it-yourself metalworking machines
In addition, testing equipment and walking machines for turning 1K62 Wales, phoenix design, lathe cutting - lathe cutting, damping speed for refrigeration equipment, brick making equipment, hypertension, shoe making, equipment price, tape on CSF 172 machine, machine rabbit skin, how to weave animatronics from rubber belts to monstrous machine.
For companies involved in production food products, various machines are used that provide an automated workflow.
The automation setting can be determined using some functions in the t-shaving machine for Chelyabinsk. These are different groups of machines that differ depending on the functions they perform. All technological operations can be classified in accordance with the principle of the work performed, the design and modes of implementation.
Companies that produce semi-finished products for sale in grocery supermarkets are equipped with special refrigerators.
Freezers are a 2c132 purchase that stores the final product for a fixed period of time. In frozen devices, ready-made semi-finished products are equipped with a special conveyor belt equipped with a spiral belt.
Do-it-yourself pendulum saw for metal
How to make a homemade circular saw?
- Homemade circular saw
- Pendulum circular saw with powerful electric motor
- Mini circular saw
- Making the base
- Engine Installation
A homemade mini circular saw will perfectly solve the issue of savings.
Because not everyone House master in order to make minor repairs, he can afford to purchase it. But sometimes it’s impossible to do without such a tool. The resulting homemade circular saw can perfectly cope with the task associated with small construction, for example, in a country house.
In order to make repairs at home or in the countryside, you will need a circular saw, and you can do it yourself.
Homemade circular saw
A homemade circular saw is designed to cut logs.
The thickness of the logs that this equipment can cut depends on the power of the electric drive.
Circular saw assembly diagram.
If it is necessary to cut thick pieces of wood, these saws are equipped with a shaft, a belt drive and the most powerful engine.
Any hand-made circular saw consists of a lower and an upper part.
Electrical equipment is installed in the lower part:
- transformer
- engine
- starting device.
On the top part is fixed:
It is better to make the frame of the upper part of the saw from a 25 mm metal corner.
The approximate dimensions of the rectangle, in the form of which the upper part is presented, are 600x400 mm. Pipes are welded in its corners (recommended height #8211 is 2.2 m, and diameter #8211 is 17 mm).
Additionally, 2 corners are fixed along the frame and to strengthen the bearings. The distance between them is determined by the size of the shaft.
Well, another cutting machine :)
To secure the bearings, clamps are used. Chips will not get clogged between the rings, balls and cage if closed type bearings are installed.
The end of the shaft must be threaded so that the disc is clamped.
Diagram of the bearing assembly of a circular saw.
It is best to make the lower part massive so that the circular saw is stable. To make the frame for this part, use a 40 mm corner. To secure the engine, you also need to additionally strengthen 2 corners across the frame. An asynchronous three-phase motor with a power of 1.5 kW and 1500 rpm is the most the best option for a DIY circular saw.
The pulley stream has inner size 80 mm, it is mounted on the shaft. There is also a need to weld a small platform to attach the starting device to.
Pipes 2.2 m long, welded to the corners of the frame, are needed to tension the belt so that the metal wings press the thin pipes.
After this, the lower and upper parts of the hand-held circular saw are embedded in supports, the role of which is played by pipes, then the belt is tightened and pressed with the wings. Start asynchronous motor in this model homemade saw carried out through starting capacitors.
To additionally load the engine and increase torque, it is possible to use a 220/36-400 W transformer, the connection of which is made using an autotransformer circuit. The location of the capacitor and transformer does not matter much in the operation of the circuit.
Pendulum circular saw with powerful electric motor
Diagram of a table for a circular saw with a lifting-lowering mechanism.
Mini circular saw
With this indispensable tool for home construction, you can cut any material and at any desired angle.
This means doing all the work associated with the rotating saw blade. Now let's look at how to make a mini circular saw with your own hands.
Making the base
It is very important to ensure that the inner edges of the plate are perfectly parallel. Attaching the tool from below to the table will be done so that the circular saw is between the sheets of the tabletop in the middle of the gap. Using the drilled holes, a mini circular saw is attached to the table in this position.
Cutting a profile, pipe or any other workpiece strictly perpendicular to the axis and cleanly with a hand tool is not an easy task, but using an electric pendulum saw is a mere trifle.
The device consists of a base frame and a sheet of metal (or a sheet of durable plastic), hingedly connected by an axis on one of the sides.
On the side of the frame opposite the axis, a corner is welded parallel to it, into which pipes or profiles are laid for cutting.
The top sheet holds an electric motor and a shaft connected by a drive belt. Don't forget to attach a comfortable handle.
At the end of the shaft opposite the pulley there is a clamp for attaching a cutting wheel or circular saw.
This pendulum saw can cut almost anything: metal, plastic, wood (even logs). When sawing logs, the lower frame rotates 180′ around the hinge axis.
In this position, it is fixed with something, for example, an assistant can stand on it. To avoid moving a heavy log after each cut, it is easier to move the saw along it.
Workpieces can be cut at different angles. To do this, the corner on which the workpiece is placed must be secured to the base frame not by welding, but with bolts, and the possibility of installing it at different angles to the saw blade must be provided.
Saw blade shaft assembly details
1-shaft, 2-bearing bracket, 3-saw blade bushing clamps, 4-pulley.
DIY pendulum saw
It is useful to replenish the arsenal of metal-cutting machines in a home workshop with a pendulum saw.
You can fix it on a workbench, next to a bench vice in which the workpiece is clamped. The working tool of the saw is an abrasive disc. He can handle steel bars, angles, pipes, sheets and even Metlakh tiles, porcelain and glass, hardened to any hardness, and the cut surface is quite clear. If you replace the disk with a saw with small tooth, then you can saw wood, plywood or plastic, while a diamond blade will make it possible to process stones.
To secure the workpiece, it is convenient to use a rotary vice; in this case, cutting can be done at an angle, which is very convenient when preparing parts for welding.
Various attachments to the saw allow you to make shallow cuts and grooves and even turn it into a regular circular saw.
For such a saw you will need a single-phase electric motor with a power of 340 W (from an electric sharpener) or a three-phase type AOL 21-2 with a power of 400 W and a rotation speed of 2800 rpm.
The rotation is transmitted to the machine spindle by a V-belt type A-I018 from a GAZ-24 car.
Rice. 1 Pendulum saw: 1 - electric motor, 2 - support, 3 - tool protective casing, 4 - tool (abrasive disc), 5 - belt protective casing, 6 - A-1018 V-belt, 7 - M8X14 mm screw, 8 - drive pulley (D 16) , 9 - belt casing cover (steel), 1C - driven pulley (D 16), 11 - spacer sleeve (steel), 12 - washer (steel), 13 - pendulum feed handle, 14 - bolt M6X12 mm, 15 - screw M5 X10 mm, 16 - shaft (steel), 17 - cover (D 16), 18 - cover (D 16), 19 - sleeve (steel), 20 - washer (steel), 21 - nut (steel), 22 - ball bearing No. 203.
23 - body (steel), 24 - boss (steel), 25 - M6X8 mm screw. 26 - M8 X 16 mm screw, 27 - boss (steel), 28 - frame (steel), 20 - M6X16 mm bolt, 30 - 1/2" pipe (steel), 31 - axle (steel), 32 - bushing ( steel), 33 - washer, 34 - M10 nut, 35 - plate (steel), 36 - intermediate housing (D 16).
The basis of the saw is a square-section spinal frame, to which the spindle body is welded on one side, and on the other, a plate for installing the motor. A 1/2" pipe is passed through the groove in the frame - it is the body of the saw's swing axis.
Carrying out welding work, make sure that the axis of the motor shaft, the spindle shaft and the swing axis of the saw are strictly parallel. After welding, be sure to straighten the frame, clean the welds and paint it with nitro enamel with a preliminary primer.
The belt casing and abrasive disc casing are made of 2 mm thick sheet steel.
It is best to weld workpieces from the inside using a fillet weld. The belt casing is screwed directly to the engine and frame, to which the abrasive disc casing is also screwed.
The drive handle is located on the removable belt housing cover.
Before assembly, fill the spindle bearings with CIATIM-221 grease.
Insert felt rings soaked in liquid lubricant into the bearing grooves.
When the saw is assembled, the motor must outweigh the spindle and be located below, between the supports, otherwise, when the saw is turned on, the abrasive may hit the workpiece and crumble.
Rice. 2 Pendulum saw accessories:A - for cutting grooves: 1 - belt drive casing, 2 - bracket, 3 - work table fixed in a vice
B - for cutting sheet material: 1 - belt drive casing, 2 - folding table, 3 - hinge, 4, 5 - brackets.
Cases for bolts and nails: For convenient storage of bolts, nails, screws, etc.
It is very convenient to use jars with screw-on lids. Nail the lids to the bottom wall cabinet and screw the contents into the bottom of the jar. Now every little thing will be in its place.
Fleas in cats and dogs. An excellent way to fight: A cat, dog or other animal can be freed from fleas if you bathe it in a tobacco decoction. After this, wash with warm water.
For processing different materials it is necessary to equip the premises, prepare power tools and equipment. Many installations can be assembled yourself, saving money. One of these options is a do-it-yourself metal cutting machine.
Disc metal cutting machines are divided according to various factors. The main division is based on the number of working parts of the tools (cutting discs). These include:
- Installations with one cutting disc. They are characterized by low power and low efficiency. Used for slicing metal profiles, pipes, fittings, and other elements. Expensive models are equipped with a regulator for changing the position of the cutting part relative to the workpiece at angles.
- Units with two cutting discs. They are distinguished by high performance indicators. One working part is stationary, the second is fixed on guides for movement. Used at large enterprises for high-speed execution of technological processes.
In home workshops, it is better to use a power tool with one cutting disc. It is enough for cutting various materials and preparing construction consumables. To make it more convenient to work, you need to take care of purchasing or making a work table on which the long edge of the workpiece will lie.
Another option for classifying cutting installations is the option of feeding the working part. Among them are:
- Front feed.
- Bottom feed.
- Mechanisms with a pendulum stroke of the disk.
Depends on how it is served Circular Saw, the design of the entire unit changes, and features of its control appear.
Construction of cutting machines
Before you start assembly homemade equipment To cut metal workpieces, you need to understand what parts the machine consists of. The main elements include:
- Bed, frame. A stable frame on which other parts will be attached.
- Desktop.
- Vise for clamping pipes and fittings.
- Electric motor with protective casing.
- Handle for changing the position of the cutting disc.
- Panel for turning on and off the installation.
The remaining elements are optional.
Technology for creating a cutting machine from an angle grinder
A simple way to make a homemade metal cutting machine is to use an old grinder as a base. You need to create a base, a work table plate with a vice. Secure the power tool to a movable guide and install a bearing to allow the saw blade to move vertically. Check the functionality of the homemade unit before starting work. It is important to leave the safety guard in place on the angle grinder to reduce the risk of injury.
You need to prepare your tools in advance Consumables:
- Metal rods.
- Sheet steel.
- Ball bearings.
- Metal tires.
- Bolts, nuts, screws.
- Profiled pipes.
- Little Bulgarian.
- Electric drill with drills of different diameters.
- Welding machine.
The drawings can be viewed on the Internet. Welding the parts together is more reliable, however, if it is not possible to work with this device, you can fasten the parts to threaded connections.
Materials and tools
To make a more powerful machine for cutting metal parts, you need to use a separate motor. In addition to this, it is necessary to prepare drawings of the assembled device, tools for making homemade cutting equipment, and consumables. These include:
- Metal profiles, corners, plates for making a frame with a work table.
- Bearings, shaft, two pulleys.
- Electric drill, grinder, welding machine.
In addition, you will need fasteners and accessories for power tools.
Procedure for making your own machine
You can assemble a high-quality machine with your own hands only by studying each of the key elements separately.
Engine
The power of the electric motor depends on how hard the metal will be processed and how often it will be used homemade car. The optimal power range is from 1.5 to 3 kW. The number of revolutions must be at least 2500 per minute. We must not forget about the required current strength. For a home workshop, the best connection option would be a common 220 volt network. It is advisable to choose an engine with the ability to change the number of revolutions.
Separately, we need to talk about the diameter of the cutting discs. Optimal sizes are from 300 to 400 mm. The larger the disk, the more revolutions it requires high-quality processing. However, on any consumable, the maximum number of rotations per minute that are allowed during cutting is indicated. Most often, the maximum is at 4400 rpm.
Drive unit
To make the drive, you need to use a belt drive. To make it, you need to find two pulleys that will be equal in diameter. Attach one pulley to the shaft from the electric motor. The second is installed on the drive shaft of the abrasive disc. Next, the shaft of the equipment is fixed on two bearings. The motor must be installed on the back side of the finished pendulum. For this, 4 bolts are used. The fasteners must be installed in slots that allow the engine to be moved by 5 centimeters. This will allow you to select the optimal belt tension. With moving motor homemade machine It’s easier to change consumables and belts.
Console pendulum
The console is a key piece of equipment, the assembly of which determines the accuracy of the cuts. For the base of the pendulum, you will need two bushings, which must be made from a metal square measuring 4x4 cm. Their height should not exceed 10 cm. Holes must be made in the racks to secure the bushing shaft. Next, a rocker arm is welded to it. A surface is installed to secure the electric motor. The lever for lowering the disk to the workpiece is calculated depending on the desire of the person.
Desktop
Principles of making a desktop:
- Make a cut through which the disk will pass while cutting metal workpieces.
- Dimensions are selected depending on the stroke of the pendulum and the diameter of the equipment.
- Additionally, you can build a broaching mechanism.
- Install a side clamp so that you can clamp the workpieces while cutting.
The optimal thickness of a metal sheet for a desktop is about 4 mm.
Operating a homemade machine
When using a homemade cutting machine, you must follow a number of operating rules:
- Wear safety glasses and gloves to protect yourself from metal shavings.
- Periodically lubricate moving parts with machine oil.
- Clean work surfaces from accumulated debris after work.
- Check the integrity of the equipment before starting the engine. Change discs depending on what kind of metal will be cut.
- If extraneous sounds appear, disconnect the unit from the network and do not turn it on until the cause of the breakdown is determined.
- Don't forget to install the protective cover. It is important to make a mechanism that will move it while the pendulum moves down.
- Do not try to cut heavy-duty materials, work long time at maximum speed.
Homemade equipment is not intended for mass production.
Metal cutting machines are used both in industrial enterprises and in private workshops. For construction and home improvement, you can assemble a unit for cutting metal blanks with your own hands. Prepare tools, consumables, draw a drawing. Next, carry out the work and check the functionality of the main elements before starting metal processing.
