How to lay bitumen shingles correctly. Valleys and skates. We install ordinary bitumen shingles

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

Usage soft roof allows you to carefully and beautifully protect the roof, attic and attic from precipitation. It is possible to install bitumen shingles without the involvement of specialists. To perform the work correctly, you just need to study the instructions for the selection, use of materials and their fixation.

Preparation for installation of a roof made of bitumen shingles

The main condition for obtaining a high-quality roof from flexible tiles is to prepare a perfectly flat base. Therefore, after removing the old material, you need to use the usual rafter system nail plywood or OSB. Otherwise, the soft roofing sheets will simply sag and you will have to re-cover the house.

Getting started and laying the first rows

To achieve maximum attic protection or attic floor against precipitation, it is recommended to use a special substrate. If the roof slope is insignificant (does not exceed 20 degrees), then it is allowed to attach the underlayment only in places where additional elements will be subsequently installed. You should also immediately install metal protective strips for the cornice and facade. After installation of bitumen shingles with your own hands, it is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. The eaves layers framing the roof are laid (they can be replaced with the tiles themselves, you just need to carefully trim them). They are fixed over the planks using nails with large flat heads. For additional fixation of the roof, the place where it will be laid is coated with bitumen mastic.
2. The first row of tiles is fixed. It is recommended to take sheets from different sets for this purpose. If they differ slightly, there will be no problems with color differences. The first row should be laid on top of the cornice layers with a slight rise (there should be a distance of about 1 cm from the edge of the end to the tile itself).
3. When fixing the tiles, the conditions for laying them out according to the pattern are observed. The excess parts are simply cut off. The sheets are fastened using nails with a flat head. They ensure reliable clamping of the tiles to the base and prevent damage.

The specified instructions for installing a roof made of flexible bitumen shingles will allow you to quickly and correctly carry out the work and eliminate major errors when laying materials. Additionally, you should view educational photos and video materials that will help you see the process of preparation for installation and the installation itself. roofing material.

Completing work with flexible bitumen shingles

After laying all layers of tiles, care must be taken to maintain high-quality roof ventilation. Therefore, it is recommended to install a ridge aerator in its upper part. It is a long bar with internal dividers and foam inserts. This type of roofing made from bitumen shingles eliminates the penetration of moisture under the roof and the danger of wasps and other insects settling in the attic.

Ridge tiles must be secured over the ridge aerator. It will further protect the aerator and achieve an aesthetic appearance of the roof. After fixing the ridge tiles, you can begin installing the drainage system.

Special requirements for the installation of a roof made of bitumen tiles

A prerequisite when working with a flexible roof is to take into account the rules for laying materials near pipes and during a multi-level transition between individual parts of the roof. Modern technology installation of bitumen shingles, use of metal junction strips, passage elements. For example, when transitioning between different levels of the roof, you need to secure the cushioning carpet with a strip, and another layer of carpet should be laid on top of the overlap. Then the installation of the tiles themselves is carried out.

When framing a pipe on the roof, you must initially select a passage element for it (used for round pipes). It will protect the roofing material from exposure high temperatures and rapid destruction. The laying out and installation of tiles is carried out after cutting them to the shape of the pipe. Such conditions for laying bituminous materials will eliminate problems with maintaining their original appearance, quality and condition.

DIY installation video of bituminous shingles

Most people call roofing made from bituminous shingles “flexible tiles” or “soft roofing”, however correct name roofing material “asphalt shingles” - bitumen shingles. Like any roof covering, this type of tile requires compliance with installation standards and technological rules. A wide range of this modern roofing material allows you to choose the best option at a very reasonable price.

Preparation and construction of sheathing

The building materials used in asphalt shingle roofing must comply with regulated standards. The installation technology involves the construction of a high-quality base to which the roofing material will be attached.

The main requirements for the sheathing material are to use tongue-and-groove or clean-edged boards natural humidity, the width of which is about fifteen centimeters. All joints of mounted boards must be placed on supports.

The length of the sheathing board must cover at least two spans. In addition, it is necessary to leave a gap between adjacent boards, which is about five millimeters. This space allows the wood to expand unhindered during changes in temperature and humidity. The core of the wood should be located towards the outside of the structure.

If you intend to use moisture-resistant sheet plywood as a base, then you should pay attention to the dimensions of the spans between the rafters. The joints of the plywood sheets should be located on the rafters themselves. In addition, the thickness of the boards and plywood sheets used for sheathing depends on the distance between the rafters:

• with a rafter pitch of 60 cm, optimal thickness the boards are 2 cm and the thickness plywood sheet cannot be less than 1.2 cm;

• with a rafter pitch of 90 cm, the optimal thickness of the board is 2.3 cm, and the thickness of the plywood sheet cannot be less than 1.8 cm;

• with a rafter pitch of 120 cm, the optimal thickness of the board is 3 cm, and the thickness of the plywood sheet cannot be less than 2.1 cm.

Providing high-quality ventilation will prevent excess moisture and mold from accumulating on the wooden structure. For correct calculation The size of the ventilation ducts must take into account the slope angle. With a slope of more than twenty degrees, the height of the vents should be about five centimeters. With a slope of less than twenty degrees, vents are made with a height of eight centimeters.

The main exhaust elements should be presented:

• grilles made on the exhaust openings along the roof edges;

• ridge aerator;

• hood, with unhindered access to the surface of the bitumen roof.

A rigid and even base for the tile covering must be thoroughly impregnated with antifungal agents and protective fire-resistant compounds.

Laying the lining layer

A high-quality and well-made lining will protect the structure from the destructive effects of moisture in the event of sudden leaks of bitumen shingles.

Direction and technology of laying carpet under a flexible roof

Modern construction standards provide for the following indicators of the lining layer:

• a roof slope of ≥ 18 degrees assumes a 1: 3 ratio and a parallel arrangement of waterproofing relative to the end and eaves of the roofing edges;

• a roof slope of more than 12 but less than 18 degrees requires an additional underlay layer on the entire roof surface.

Overlaps should be taken into account and performed from bottom to top.

Installation of roof elements

All roof overhangs need to be reinforced with metal strips. They are provided on top of the lining at the ends and cornices. Installation is carried out using special roofing nails in increments of twelve centimeters.

At the next stage, special self-adhesive tiles are installed, from which the protective film is removed before installation. The tiles are glued end to end along the cornice and then fixed.

If there is a valley in the roof structure, it is necessary to lay a special carpet, which is secured on both sides. After fastening, the carpet is coated along the edges with bitumen mastic.

Do-it-yourself bitumen shingles installation technology

The immediate process should begin with mixing shingles, which are taken from several packages at once, which allows stabilization color scheme the entire roofing surface.

Endova

When laying bitumen shingles, you can use three methods of waterproofing the valley:

• the “open valley” method involves the use of rolled materials;

• the “crossed valley” or “braid” method involves the use of tile regular shingles;

• "sloping valley" or "undercut" method.

Instructions for laying shingles

It starts from the bottom of the roof, from the eaves center. The approximate installation start point is located in the middle of the ramp. Direct installation of bitumen shingles is carried out in rows in a vertical direction, moving from the central part to the gables.

The first row is laid with a gap of two or three centimeters, which should be located between the cornice tiles and the lower tile edge.

The edge of the second row of tiles, laid vertically, must be trimmed to form a beautiful pattern and disguise the fastenings of the first row. If necessary, all tile elements must be cut strictly along the edge gable cornice and treat the cut areas with bitumen glue. The processing width must be at least ten centimeters.

Additional fastening of the laid tile shingles is carried out using roofing nails, which should be driven in two adjacent rows. When hammering, the nail should secure the first and second rows at once. It takes about four to five nails to attach each shingle.. Solar heat allows the bitumen tiles to firmly adhere not only to each other, but also to be properly fixed to the sheathing.

Fastening tiles to a ridge

Most often, a special type of flexible tile is used to install a roofing ridge, which is called ridge-eaves. Individual elements This tile has a special perforation that divides it into three segments. Before installation, the film is removed from the adhesive base, and folding along the center line is used for installation.

When laying ridge tiles, the overlap method is used, which should be about five centimeters. The short part of the ridge tiles must be placed parallel to the slope lines. Roofing nails are used as fasteners. The standard consumption of hardware is about four fasteners per element: two hardware on one side and two on the other.

If shingles of ordinary tiles are used as ridge elements, then you need to carry out a few simple manipulations:

• shingles are cut into trapezoidal segments;

• a construction hairdryer melts the anti-adhesive film with reverse side shingles;

• heated ridge elements are bent along the ridge.

With this method, one shingle can cover about 0.6 linear meters. roof ridge.

To install the aerator tape, special slots should be cut on the sides of the ridge part. At the next stage, grabbing the slots over the ridge, fastening should be done on both sides of the aerator tape. Next, the ridge tiles are installed in any convenient way.

For more information about installation technology, watch the video.

Cost of roofing work

Prices for roofing using bitumen shingles directly depend on several circumstances. The maximum value for pricing is the volume of work performed and related services:

• Turnkey installation of flexible bitumen shingles with the necessary components usually includes:

• performing ordinary coating;

• installation of end, cornice and ridge strips;

• arrangement of valley and junctions.

Such work will cost the consumer 370 rubles per sq. m. meter.

Additional installation of the base and hydro- and vapor barrier of the roof costs about 170 rubles per sq. m. meter, and installation of wall and ridge aerators - from 410 rubles per line. meter.

Moreover, as additional work installation of strips, junctions, drainage systems and snow guards. The cost of such work depends on the volume of work and the cost of the material.

Let's sum it up

You should not neglect the installation of a lining carpet, which protects the roof structure in case of possible leaks.

Roof overhangs must be reinforced with metal strips of eaves and end type, which are mounted on a layer of underlay carpet.

At the junction of the roof slope and the walls, a triangular metal strip must be fixed, on top of which a covering of bitumen shingles is mounted. The next step is to lay the valley carpet. The adhesive for installing tile coverings is represented by bitumen mastic.

A roof covering made of bitumen shingles lasts a very long time, but the roof should be thoroughly cleaned and washed with antiseptic detergents every five years. In addition, it is necessary to regularly check the patency of the ventilation holes.

Installation work is carried out in stages, in several steps, each of which is fundamentally important for the quality of the entire roofing system.

Preparatory work

No matter how reliable the soft roof covering may be, the roof can “move” or leak if the fastening is done without proper preparation. Therefore, preliminary work before laying the roof is very important and should be carried out by professionals in several stages.

Creating a rafter system

The rafters bear the main load from flexible tiles, so you need to make the correct calculation taking into account the weight of the roofing pie, wind and snow exposure.

Advice. Securely fasten the rafter legs, process wooden elements special protective equipment to increase the reliability of the structure.

Vapor barrier device

After installing the rafters, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier film that will protect the roofing pie and insulation from condensation. The film is laid overlapping, and the resulting seams are taped.

Insulation

In order for the thermal insulation to hold securely, between rafter legs you need to nail a block that will hold the insulation boards. Thermal engineering calculations will help you choose the correct insulation thickness. Thermal insulation boards are laid staggered and covered with a wind and moisture protective film, which is secured with a counter beam.

Advice. The counter beam must be nailed parallel to the rafters to create a free ventilation duct to remove excess moisture from the under-roof space.

Installation of bituminous shingles should only be carried out on a flat, solid base, for which it is preferable to use sheathing and solid flooring made of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB. The boards are fixed with special galvanized nails.

After laying the base, preparation for the installation of a soft roof is completed - you can begin the main work.

Installation of bitumen roofing: materials used

When installing flexible bituminous shingles, we recommend using high-quality materials of the IKOPAL brand, which are produced in accordance with European standards and certified according to Russian standards. To install a soft roof, you will need the following materials.

Roof covering includes:

• SBS-modified with a fiberglass base with colored slate coating on the top side;
• ridge-cornice strip of similar composition for arranging cornices, ridges, ribs;
• valley carpet - roll protective material, which is used to strengthen soft fused roofing in valleys and other vulnerable places;
• underlay carpet - roll waterproofing, the installation of which is a mandatory step in the roofing installation work.

Advice. The underlayment carpet is laid over the entire surface of the roof from bottom to top, parallel to the eaves overhang. Avoid wrinkles!

Additional components/materials

• Metal abutment strips, gable strips, and drip edges are needed to remove moisture from the edges of the roof and give it a complete appearance.
• Fastening bitumen shingles is impossible without special galvanized nails with a head size of 8 mm or more.
• IKOPAL mastic and adhesive-sealant are used to seal joints, overlaps, and other joints and seams.
• Elements such as deflectors, under-roof fans or pipe flanges ensure that ventilation systems are brought to the roof.
• The IKOPAL drainage system, including gutters, brackets, funnels, elbows, and fastenings, allows you to effectively drain external water.

Vapor barrier

The instructions for installing the roof indicate the need to create a reliable vapor barrier layer. As a vapor barrier, it is worth using a durable four-layer reinforced IKOPAL Polycraft membrane, which not only protects against condensation, but also effectively reflects heat, reducing energy costs.

Advice. Lay the vapor barrier with an overlap of 100-150 mm and seal with double-sided tape.

Thermal insulation

Installation of bitumen shingles involves the use of such thermal insulation material as non-flammable mineral wool density from 30 kg/m3.

Windproof membranes

ICOPAL Monarperm hydro-windproof membranes, which are laid on top of the thermal insulation without a ventilated gap, help protect the insulation from wind and water.

Do not try to save on materials for bitumen roofing, as this will lead to deterioration in quality and a reduction in the service life of the roofing covering.

Laying roofing material: installation instructions

The preparatory measures have been carried out, the base for the roof is ready - which means you can proceed directly to the installation of flexible tiles.

1. Install the underlay carpet

First, we lay a special waterproofing layer on the finished, level base - IKOPAL K-EL or Felix underlay carpet. We unfold it from bottom to top parallel to the eaves overhang, fix it to the base along the top edge every 40 cm, along the bottom every 10 cm. We seal the overlaps with mastic.

2. Install the planks

We nail the cornice and end strips onto the underlayment using roofing nails in a zigzag pattern. The overlap is 3-5 cm, the pitch between nails is 10 cm.

3. Install the cornice strip

We remove the protective film from the ridge-eaves strip, retreat 10-20 mm from the bend of the eaves strip, and fix the strip joint to joint. In places of perforations and along the edges we nail.

4. Install the valley carpet

The carpet to protect the valley is installed in two layers: the top one matches the color of the main covering, and an additional layer of lining carpet is used as the bottom one. It is fastened with nails in increments of 20 cm. The valley carpet is laid in the direction of the valley axis with the edges fixed every 10 cm.

Advice. To avoid damaging the valley carpet when cutting flexible tiles, a plywood sheet should be placed under it.

5. We mount the ordinary bitumen shingles

To avoid visual defects when installing a soft roof, it is recommended to mix the shingles from four or six packs to balance the shade before installation. After this, you can proceed directly to covering the roof with bitumen shingles.

Installation of the roof begins from the middle of the eaves overhang and moves towards the ends. To lay the first row, we retreat 1 cm from the bottom edge of the eaves flexible tiles and on this line we fasten the bottom edge of the row petals, having first removed the bottom protective film from the shingles. Fastening is done with four or six (at a large slope) nails per shingle.

Advice. When using rectangular shingles, the number of nails should be increased to 5 per flat roofs and up to 7 on slopes with an inclination angle of more than 45 degrees.

During further installation of row tiles, we make sure that the petals of each subsequent row coincide with the cutouts of the previous one. In the area of ​​the ends, we cut the shingles along the edges, glue them to the end strip with mastic, and seal the seams with the appropriate adhesive.

Installation of tiles in hard-to-reach places

The installation of soft roofing in areas adjacent to a wall or chimney, in the area of ​​openings for laying pipes, communications, and on the roof ridge requires special attention and control. Failure to comply with installation technology in these places can damage the tightness and appearance coverings.

The main rule when constructing installation passages or installing a soft roof on lifting strips when installing chimneys is to fix the shingles with bitumen mastic and be sure to seal the seams with IKOPAL adhesive-sealant.

To install ridge tiles, use ICOPAL Combi ridge-eaves strip tiles measuring 25 by 33 cm. The instructions require that ordinary shingles be brought to the level where their fastening points will be covered by ridge tiles. The latter is laid parallel to the ridge, bending over the slope, then fixed with two nails on each side.

The overlap when laying ridge tiles should be 5-10 cm and cover the fastenings of each previous element. The final tile is fixed with mastic.

Advice. It is not difficult to divide the IKOPAL ridge-cornice strip into separate tiles: just break it into three parts in places with perforations.

Summary

Step-by-step instructions for installing flexible tiles will allow you to create a reliable, durable, beautiful roofing covering that will protect the building from leaks and atmospheric influences for a long time.

Correct installation technology along with use quality materials from the manufacturer ICOPAL will ensure long-term preservation of the operational and aesthetic characteristics of the roof.

Roofing made of bituminous soft tiles is easy to use, durable and aesthetically pleasing. Its big advantage is that it is quite possible self-installation. The technology is not the most complicated, the weight of the fragment is small, it is attached to an adhesive base, and is additionally fixed with roofing nails. So you can do the installation of soft tiles with your own hands even alone.

Roofing pie for soft tiles

The attic under the roof can be warm or cold, depending on this the composition of the roofing cake changes. But its part from the rafters and above always remains unchanged:

• waterproofing is installed along the rafters;
• on it - bars with a thickness of at least 30 mm;
• solid flooring.

Let’s look at these materials in more detail - what and how to make them from, what features each of them has.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing membranes come in one, two and three layers. Single-layer membranes are the simplest and cheapest, they perform only a double task - they do not allow moisture to pass into the room and release vapors to the outside. So in a simple way not only is the attic protected from the penetration of condensation or precipitation that suddenly seeps in, but it is also removed from the air excess moisture, accompanying human life. Single-layer membranes are poorly represented on the market. They are practically produced by one company - Tyvek.

Two- and three-layer membranes are more durable. In addition to the waterproofing layer, they also have a layer that gives greater tensile strength. The third layer, if there is one, is the adsorbent layer. That is, even if a drop of condensate forms on the surface of the membrane, this layer absorbs it, preventing it from spilling onto other materials. With sufficient ventilation, moisture from this layer gradually evaporates and is carried away by air currents.

Three-layer membranes (for example, EUROTOP N35, RANKKA, YUTAKON) are desirable if your attic is insulated and mineral wool is used as insulation. It is afraid of getting wet and when humidity increases by 10%, it loses half of its thermal insulation properties.

If under the soft tiles there is cold attic, it is advisable to use a two-layer waterproofing membrane. In terms of strength, it is much better than single-layer ones, and the price is only slightly more expensive.

Lathing

Sheathing strips are placed on top of the waterproofing film, parallel to the overhang. They are necessary to create a ventilation gap. It will maintain normal humidity of roofing materials.

The sheathing is made from boards coniferous species(mainly pine trees). The thickness of the boards is at least 30 mm. This is the minimum gap that will ensure normal air movement in the under-roof space. Before laying, the wood must be treated with an impregnation that protects against pests and fungi; after this layer has dried, it is also treated with fire retardants, which reduce the flammability of the wood.

The minimum length of the board for sheathing is at least two spans of rafters. They are attached and connected above the rafter legs. You cannot connect them anywhere else.

Flooring

The flooring for soft tiles is made continuous. The materials are selected based on the fact that nails must be driven into it, therefore they are usually used:

• OSB 3;
• moisture-resistant plywood;
• tongue and groove boards of the same thickness (25 mm) with a moisture content of no more than 20%.

When laying flooring under soft tiles, gaps must be left between the elements to compensate for temperature expansion. When using plywood or OSB, the gap is 3 mm, between edged boards 1-5 mm. The sheet material is fastened with seams staggered, that is, so that the joints are not continuous. The OSB is secured using self-tapping screws or rough nails.

When using boards as flooring, you must ensure that the annual rings of the wood are directed downward. If they are positioned in the opposite direction, they will bend in an arc, the soft tiles will lift, and the tightness of the coating may be compromised. There is one more trick that will keep the wooden flooring level even if the moisture content of the boards is above 20%. When laying, the ends of the boards are additionally secured with two nails or self-tapping screws driven close to the edge. This additional fastener will prevent the boards from bending when drying.

The choice of thickness of material for flooring under soft tiles depends on the pitch of the sheathing. The larger the pitch, the thicker the flooring is needed. The best option- frequent steps and thin slabs. In this case, a light but rigid base is obtained.

Another point concerns the installation of flooring under soft tiles around the chimney pipe. For a brick pipe whose width is more than 50 cm, a groove is made behind it (pictured). This design resembles a mini-roof. It separates the rain streams, they roll down the sides of the pipe without flowing into the under-roof space.

After installing the flooring, its geometry is checked. The length and width of the slope at the top and bottom, the height of the slope on both sides are measured, and the diagonals are measured. And the last check is plane tracking - the entire slope must lie entirely in one plane.

Soft tile roofing technology

When purchasing, you will most likely be provided with instructions in which the installation of soft tiles will be described step by step and in detail, indicating all the exact dimensions that this particular manufacturer requires. These recommendations should be followed. However, it is worth getting acquainted with the order of work and their volumes in advance - in order to understand the intricacies of installation and required quantity materials.

Let’s say right away that you need to handle soft tiles carefully when laying them - they don’t like being bent. Therefore, try not to unnecessarily bend or wrinkle the shingles (this is one fragment consisting of a visible and mounting part).

Overhang reinforcement

The drip bar is installed first. This is an L-shaped sheet of metal coated with paint or a polymer composition. Polymer coating is more expensive, but also more reliable. The color is selected close to the color of the bitumen shingles.

The drip strip is installed along the roof overhangs

The purpose of the drip strip is to protect the sheathing, rafter sections and flooring from moisture. One edge of the drip is placed on the flooring, the other covers the overhang. It is fastened with galvanized (stainless steel) nails, which are driven in in a checkerboard pattern (one closer to the fold, the second almost at the edge). The fastener installation step is 20-25 cm.

The drip strip is sold in two-meter pieces. Having laid the first element, the second is fastened with an overlap of at least 3 cm. If desired, the gap can be closed: coat the joint with bitumen mastic and fill it with sealant. At the same stage, hooks are installed, or at least nailed, which will hold the gutters.

Laying a waterproofing carpet

Regardless of the angle of the roof, a waterproofing underlay must be laid in and along the slope. It is sold in meter-wide rolls. An adhesive composition is applied to the bottom side, covered with a protective film or paper. Before laying, the paper is removed and the valley carpet is glued to the flooring.

Installation of a waterproofing carpet begins with laying it in the valley. Roll out the material to a meter width, distributing 50 cm on both sides of the bend. Here it is advisable to avoid joints, but, if necessary, the overlap of the two canvases should be at least 15 cm. Laying proceeds from bottom to top, the junction is additionally coated with bitumen mastic, the material is pressed well.

Next, the waterproofing carpet under the flexible tiles is laid along the eaves overhang. Minimum width carpet on a cornice overhang - the size of the overhang itself, plus 60 cm. The lower edge is located on top of the drip edge and can bend down a few centimeters. First, the carpet is rolled out, trimmed if necessary, then the protective film is removed from the back and glued to the backing. Additionally, they are fixed along the edges with stainless steel or galvanized nails with a large flat head (step 20-25 cm).

At the horizontal joints, the overlap of the two sheets is at least 10 cm, in the vertical direction - at least 15 cm. All joints are additionally coated with bitumen mastic, and the material is crimped.

Underlay carpet

Underlay carpet, like waterproofing carpet, is sold in meter-wide rolls, the back side is covered with an adhesive composition. The installation method depends on the roof slope and the profile of the selected bitumen shingles.

When using bitumen shingles with cuts (type Jazz, Trio, Beaver Tail), regardless of the slope, the underlayment is spread over the entire surface of the roof.

Installation of underlayment often requires trimming. This is done using a sharply sharpened knife. To avoid damaging the material below when cutting, lay down a piece of plywood or OSB.

Front (end) strip

Pediment strips are mounted on the side sections of the overhangs. These are strips of metal bent in the shape of the letter “L”, along the bend line of which there is a small protrusion. They protect the laid roofing materials from wind loads and moisture. The gable strip is laid on the flooring on top of the underlay or waterproofing carpet, fixed with nails (stainless steel or galvanized) in a checkerboard pattern with a pitch of 15 cm.

These planks also come in 2 m pieces and are laid with an overlap of at least 3 cm.

Marking the slope

To make the installation of soft tiles simple, markings in the form of a grid are applied to the underlayment or flooring. This is done using a paint cord. Lines along the eaves are drawn at a distance equal to 5 rows of tiles, in the vertical - every meter (the length of one shingle of flexible tiles). This marking makes installation easier - the edges are aligned using it, and it’s easier to track distances.

Valley carpet

More valley material is laid on top of the already laid waterproofing carpet. It is slightly wider and serves as an additional guarantee of no leaks. Without removing the protective film from the bottom side, it is laid, trimmed at the bottom in the overhang area, and the boundaries are marked. Stepping back from the 4-5 cm mark, a special mastic with increased fixation, Fixer, is applied. It is applied from a syringe, with a roller, then rubbed into a strip about 10 cm wide with a spatula.

The valley carpet is laid out on the mastic, the folds are smoothed out, the edges are pressed. Stepping back from the edge by 3 cm, it is fixed with nails in increments of 20 cm.

Connection to a brick pipe

To bypass pipes and ventilation outlets, cut-outs are made from valley carpet or galvanized metal painted in the appropriate color. The surface of the pipe is plastered and treated with a primer.

When using a valley carpet, a pattern is made so that the material extends onto the pipe by at least 30 cm, leaving at least 20 cm on the roof.

The pattern is coated with bitumen mastic and placed in place. The front part is installed first, then the right and left.

Some of the side elements are wrapped onto the front part. Back wall installed last. Its parts extend to the sides.

At correct installation on the flooring around the pipe there is a platform completely covered with a valley carpet. Before laying the tiles in this place, the surface is coated with bitumen mastic.

The tiles extend onto the laid carpet on three sides, not reaching the walls of the pipe 8 cm.

The upper part of the junction is sealed using a metal strip, which is attached to dowels.

All gaps are filled with heat-resistant sealant.

Round pipe output

There are special passage devices for the passage of ventilation pipes. They are positioned so that the lower edge of the element extends onto the tiles by at least 2 cm.

Having attached the passage element to the roof, trace its internal hole. Along the applied contour, a hole is cut out in the substrate into which a round pipe is inserted.

The back part of the skirt of the passage element is coated with bitumen mastic, adjusted to the desired position, and additionally secured around the perimeter with nails. When installing soft tiles, the penetration skirt is coated with mastic.

The shingles are cut as close as possible to the protrusion of the penetration, the gap is then filled with mastic, which is covered with a special coating that protects against ultraviolet radiation.

Start strip

Installation of soft tiles begins with laying the starting strip. Usually these are ridge-eaves tiles or row tiles with cut petals. The first element is laid on one of the edges of the slope, with its edge touching the gable strip. The lower edge of the starting strip is placed on the dropper, 1.5 cm away from its fold.

Before installation, it is removed from the back protective film, the shingles are leveled and laid. Each section of bitumen shingles is fastened with four nails - in the corners of each fragment, 2-3 cm away from the edge or perforation line.

If a cut of ordinary tiles is used as a starting strip, some of it will lack adhesive. In these places, the substrate is coated with bitumen mastic.

Installation of soft ordinary tiles

There are flexible tiles with an applied adhesive mass, protected by a film, and there is a composition that does not require a protective film, although it also fixes the elements well on the roof. When using the first type of material, the film is removed immediately before installation.

Before laying bitumen shingles on the roof, open several packs - 5-6 pieces. Laying is carried out from all packs at the same time, taking one shingle from each one in turn. Otherwise, there will be obvious spots on the roof that differ in color.

The first shingle is laid so that its edge does not reach the edge of the starting strip by 1 cm. In addition adhesive composition, the tiles are also secured with roofing nails. The amount of fasteners depends on the angle of the slope:

When installing soft tiles, it is important to drive the nails in correctly. The caps should press against the shingles but not break through the surface.

Valley design

Using a painter's cord, mark a zone in the valley into which nails cannot be driven - this is 30 cm from the middle of the valley. Then mark the boundaries of the gutter. They can be from 5 to 15 cm in both directions.

The upper corner, which is turned towards the valley, is trimmed

When laying ordinary tiles, the nails are driven as close as possible to the line beyond which nails cannot be driven, and the shingles are trimmed to the floor of the gutter laying line. To prevent water from flowing under the material, the upper corner of the tile is cut diagonally, cutting off about 4-5 cm. The loose edge of the tile is smeared with bitumen mastic and fixed with nails.

Pediment decoration

On the sides of the slope, the tiles are cut so that 1 cm remains before the edge (protrusion) of the end strip. The upper corner of the shingle is cut in the same way as in the valley - an oblique piece of 4-5 cm. The edge of the tile is coated with mastic. A strip of mastic is at least 10 cm. Then it is fixed with nails, like the rest of the elements.

If the flooring in the area of ​​the ridge is made continuous, a hole is cut along the ridge, which should not reach the end of the rib 30 cm. Bituminous shingles are laid up to the beginning of the hole, after which a special ridge profile with ventilation holes is installed.

It is fixed with long roofing nails. Several elements can be used on a long ridge; they are connected end-to-end. The installed metal ridge is covered with ridge tiles. The protective film is removed from it, then the fragment is fixed with four nails (two on each side). The installation of soft tiles on the ridge goes towards the prevailing winds, one fragment overlaps the other by 3-5 cm.

Ridge tiles are ridge-eaves divided into three parts. There is a perforation on it, and the fragment is torn off along it (first bend it, press the fold, then tear it off).

The same elements can be cut from ordinary tiles. It is divided into three parts, without paying attention to the drawing. The corners of the resulting tiles are cut off - about 2-3 cm on each side. The middle of the fragment is heated with a hair dryer on both sides, placed in the middle on a block and, gently pressing, bent.

Ribs and bends

The ribs are covered with ridge tiles. A line is drawn along the bend at the required distance with a paint cord. The edge of the tile is aligned along it. The laying of flexible tiles on the edge goes from bottom to top, each fragment is glued, then, retreating 2 cm from the top edge, it is fixed with nails - two on each side. The next fragment extends 3-5 cm onto the laid one.

You can install bitumen shingles yourself. This material allows you to create a reliable and aesthetic roofing covering for pitched roof. IN Lately soft tiles attracts the attention of private developers, thanks to which it is increasingly gaining popularity.

Sheathing device

Bituminous shingles are laid on solid flat surface continuous sheathing. Moisture-resistant plywood or OSB boards. Also, continuous sheathing can be made of tongue-and-groove or edged boards. The sheet material is laid with the long side parallel to the ridge. Sheets or boards are joined on the rafters “staggered” - the joints of the sheathing elements of adjacent rows should not be located on one rafter board.

If the pitch of the rafters requires trimming sheet material during installation, it is easier to pre-fill the rafters with a sheathing made of unedged boards calibrated in thickness (with the bark removed), and attach continuous flooring elements to it.

It is recommended to lay an underlayment carpet made of priming roofing felt on the prepared base. It levels and additionally waterproofs the surface. In addition, this coating will ensure high adhesion of bitumen shingles. Slopes with a slope angle of up to 30° are completely covered with roofing felt in one or two layers (vertical overlap 150 mm, horizontal overlap 80 mm, laying parallel to the cornice). On steeper roofs, the lining layer must be installed in the area of ​​the ridge, valleys, and places where the roof abuts vertical structures. The primer roofing felt is nailed, and in the valleys it is additionally glued.

Basic installation rules

When calculating the amount of material, some nuances should be taken into account. Bituminous shingles are intended for creating roofing coverings on roofs with a slope angle of 15 – 85°. The packaging shows the design surface for a slope with a slope of 45°. When the angle of inclination changes, the material consumption changes - for a roofing carpet on a flatter roof, more material will be needed, for a steep roof - less. Hexagonal shingles can be used on roofs with a pitch of at least 20°.

Laying bitumen shingles is carried out according to certain rules. To achieve a high-quality result, you must follow temperature regime work and material storage conditions:

• roofing installation work should be carried out at air temperatures exceeding +5 °C;
• bituminous shingles must be stored indoors in packaged form, stacked on pallets no more than 16 rows high;
• primer roofing felt should be stored in rolls in a vertical position;
• if work is to be carried out at relatively low temperatures, the underlayment and tiles must be removed in warm room one day before installation.

During installation, soft tiles are not treated with a burner, unlike fused bitumen roofing. The protective polymer film is removed from the lower surface of the element prepared for installation, and the part is laid on the prepared plane. The adhesive surface of the shingles adheres tightly to the base under the influence of sun rays(in hot weather) or a heat gun (in cool weather). If asphalt shingles are installed in cold or very windy weather, special asphalt adhesive should be used.

Elements of bitumen shingles from different packages may differ slightly in shade and color intensity. To make the finished roof look aesthetically pleasing, it is advisable to use a separate package of material for the slope. If the large area of ​​the slope does not allow this, the coating is assembled from elements that are taken in turn from several packages - this allows for an even distribution of shades.

In hot weather, the adhesive layer of asphalt shingles softens, and the coating may deform under load. For this reason, such a roof can only be moved in hot weather with the help of ladders or roofing “cats”.

Fastening Features

Asphalt shingle roofing requires mechanical fastening of each element. For this purpose they can be used:

• screw nails;
• rough nails;
• staples (for mounting tiles on sheathing without priming roofing felt).

The length of the roofing nail must be at least 26 mm, and the diameter of the flat head must be 8 mm. Fastening elements made of metal with high-quality anti-corrosion treatment are used. Each shingle is attached to 4 nails, which are driven at a distance of 2.5 cm from the sides of the tile and 14.5 from its bottom line.

The head of the driven nail should be flush with the surface. Protruding fasteners can damage roofing element, stacked above. A deeply recessed nail creates a depression in which moisture can accumulate, which will eventually lead to the destruction of the fastener.

Bituminous adhesive is used for additional strengthening of tiles at junctions with windows and walls, at the ridge and in valleys, as well as for laying coverings in cold weather. The glue is applied from the cans with a steel spatula and squeezed out of the cans using a special gun. Since bitumen adhesive hardens at temperatures below +10 ° C, when installing the roofing in cold weather, it must be preheated. The glued shingles should be pressed tightly to the base.

Installing shingles

The first step is to secure the metal eaves and windshield strips to the underlayment using screws or flat head roofing nails. Fastening elements are installed along the entire length of the plank in a checkerboard pattern with a pitch of 100 mm. Metal strips are mounted with an overlap of 50 mm. Laying the underlay carpet under the valleys is done on top of the eaves strips.

Next, the shingles for the cornices are laid on top of the mounted cornice strip. The installation principle depends on the type of tile: some material manufacturers advise leaving a gap of 1 cm between the bottom line of the eaves shingles and the edge of the eaves, in other cases it is recommended to overhang (1-1.5 cm) the roofing material above the eaves. If the manufacturer does not offer special eaves shingles, you need to cut a few regular ones and use the resulting adhesive strips to lay the first line of bitumen shingles on the eaves, gluing them end to end.

Installation of bitumen shingles begins from the bottom of the eaves, from the middle line of the slope - the shingles are laid retreating to the left and right. The next row of roofing elements is placed in such a way that the gap between the lower edge of the eaves row and the lower edge of the second line is 1-2 cm. In this case, a visually straight line of the eaves will be ensured when looking at the roof from the ground. If your asphalt shingles are rectangular in shape, start each even row with half a shingle so that the shingles move diagonally.

If asphalt shingles are installed on the roof of a home built in an area with high winds, the distance between rows of shingles should be reduced to improve the durability of the roof. On such roofs, the visible portion of the tiles will be smaller.

Secrets of a beautiful roof

Careful installation of bituminous shingles with your own hands requires preliminary preparation knowledge of some subtleties of styling. In particular, when walking around structural elements of the roof, including a dormer window, the distance between the outer shingles on both sides of the element should be a multiple of 1 meter - this will allow all subsequent rows to be installed correctly.

Before starting to lay the material, it is recommended to draw the slope with chalk vertically and horizontally directly on the primer roofing, marking its midline, as well as the laying lines for every 4-5 rows of elements. If on the slope there are structural elements(attic or dormer window, chimney or ventilation tube), then vertical lines are marked from them. This makes it possible to perform installation as accurately and beautifully as possible.

Valleys and skates

Ridge shingles should be trimmed along the ridge line. Having created a ventilation gap in the ridge, the upper edge of the roof is covered with eaves shingles. You can use cut regular shingles instead. To bend the shingles without causing microcracks, the material should be heated. Bitumen mastic will allow you to reliably waterproof the junction of the ridge covering to the roof.

Reliable waterproofing of the valley is carried out as follows: each shingle that falls on the gutter should, without cutting, be secured on the other side of the gutter with mechanical fasteners and glue. In this case, only the top row of shingles are cut, and the valley gutter is reliably protected and will not leak during long-term operation of the roof.