Should metal patination be varnished? Applying patina or patination. Compositions and application. Patination in the design of kitchen interiors

In the previous article, we clearly showed the entire decorative furniture support made of ABS plastic.

Particular attention should be paid to processes such as staining And patination products.

Painting.

Before painting, it is necessary to firmly fix the part on the workbench. To do this, you can use ordinary tape.

You also need to configure in a certain way the paint sprayer itself:

• pressure
• ink supply level
• torch size

All of this is important to get the best possible end result. For example, pressure affects the size dispersion(scatter of material). Optimal pressure: 2-3 bar.

In our experiment, a paint sprayer with a nozzle diameter of 1.6 mm was used. For polyurethane paint and soil, it is allowed to use a nozzle with a diameter of 1.4 mm to 2 mm. This largely depends on the characteristics of the coatings, viscosity. For large parts, it is better to use a nozzle with large diameter, for small ones - with a smaller one, respectively.

Let's analyze the staining process in sequence:

1. The first thing to do- carry out light grinding of the surface of the workpiece in all planes, for which a grinding sponge P 150 - 180 is used, carefully dedust the workpiece.

2. Apply pigmented polyurethane primer with an airbrush.

Used materials:

• Primer -TU 229/13: 100%
• Hardener -TH 780-40%
• Thinner - DT 452 -30%

The primer is applied in 1 layer. Wet layer weight: 120 - 140 g/m² .

3. After we have applied the primer, it must be allowed to dry.

• Drying time: 2 hours
• Temperature: 20°C
• Humidity: 45 - 70%

4. Sponge to make grinding under the "finish" layer.
It is important to remember that grinding is carried out before applying the next layer, the maximum time between grinding and applying the film-forming layer is 4 hours.

5. Apply matte enamel by spraying.

Used materials:

• Enamel PU-TZ 9925/XX -100%
• Hardener - TH 720-50%
• Thinner - DT 452-30%

The enamel is applied in the same way as the primer in 1 layer. Wet layer weight: 120-140 g/m² .

6. Let the enamel dry.

• Drying time: at least 6 hours
• Temperature: 20°C
• Humidity: 45-70%

Let's take a look at the painting process decorative elements:

It should be noted that there are many technologies and techniques of the painting process.

Decorative elements are painted in several steps. This is due to the fact that the parts have a large number of faces. Therefore, in order not to "fill in", it is necessary to color gradually. Eg, kitchen facades stained on 4 sides, in 4 doses, respectively.

You can paint both "from yourself" and "toward yourself". In this case, it is individual and it all depends on convenience.

When receiving staining "to yourself", the hand instinctively falls lower as it approaches the body. This should not be allowed in any way and try to keep the paint sprayer at the same height relative to the part. This is especially important when applying varnish, the level of which will be visible on the already finished product.

The gun should be held at an angle, not perpendicular to the workpiece. This will help prevent the paint from "rebounding" from the surface of the part.

It is desirable to carry out painting at different angles, since the surface features of a particular material should be taken into account. Similarly, by the way, it is necessary to apply a patina, for example, on a porous surface.

The painted surface should glare, look like varnished. After the paint dries, the surface will take on an even matte shade.

Patination.

To begin with, let's figure out what is patina. This is plaque that forms on the surface of the product in a natural or artificial way.
(We recommend using .)

How to properly apply patina to the workpiece?
The answer is given by the master of the company Sayerlak: "The patina is like dust that naturally settles on the surface. It is applied by spraying onto the surface."

Consider in detail the technology of patination:

1. After the paint has dried, it is necessary to lightly sand in places where the patina is to be applied. What is a sanding sponge or scotch brite suitable for?

2. To apply the patina, a conventional pneumatic paint sprayer is used.

Used materials:

• Patina XP 1981/XX - 1
• Thinner (acetone) - 1:5

Wet layer weight: 50 - 80g/m².

3. Let the patina dry a bit.
It is important not to overexpose, otherwise the patina will be difficult to remove from the product.

• Drying time: 10 minutes
• Temperature: 20°C
• Humidity: 45 - 70%

4. You can remove the extra layer of patina with scotch-brite or a special sponge.

Scotch brite, perhaps more convenient to handle. This soft, felt-like abrasive material penetrates into the recesses on the workpiece better, and removes the patina from the surface much softer than sandpaper or metal wool.

5. Apply acrylic varnish with a pneumatic paint sprayer.

Used materials:

• Varnish -TL 0351/00
• Hardener-TH 0908/00-25%
• Thinner-DT 0139/00-30%

The varnish is applied in 1 layer. Wet layer weight: 120-140 g/m²

6. Carry out the final drying of the product.

• Drying time before polishing: 5 hours
• Drying time before storage: 10 hours
• Temperature: 20°C
• Humidity: 45 - 70%

We invite you to watch the patination process:

You can choose and purchase decorative elements for furniture using.

If you need more detailed information on the use of decorative elements, drawings, as well as technological processes please in any way convenient for you.

Patination is a technique of "aging" the surface of a metal or wood, which is achieved by applying dyes based on various acids. As a result, the products acquire a special charm, the spirit of antiquity. Work surfaces are put in order before manipulation, then they are treated with a special primer from a spray can, which allows the paint to better fix on the surface. Patination of metal takes time and patience, how to apply patina paint on the surface and what effect can be obtained, we will consider further.

The very meaning of the word "patina" has nothing to do with the processes of staining. It is of Italian origin and refers to the film that forms on the metal after prolonged exposure to oxygen.

Initially, you had to wait a long time for the metal to oxidize itself, and the result was completely unpredictable, now this technique can be reproduced at home with your own hands using the following materials:

• patina of the color you like (in powder);
• liquid solvent;
• brush (size 2-3) or sponge;
• small plastic or glass baths (do not take metal ones, they can interact with the paint);
• metal item you want to decorate.

Pay attention to safety precautions! Means for patination involve working with chemical oxidizing agents, solvents and require special care.

It is recommended not to work in confined spaces without respiratory protection. It is better to work in the open air, in rooms with good ventilation (with open windows, an exhaust fan, a draft). If acid comes into contact with skin, wash immediately. running water then apply a slurry of baking soda. If rashes, burns or any skin changes appear, consult a doctor immediately!

Protect your hands! Patinated always with gloves.

Patina colors

On various metal surfaces by patination, you can achieve completely different color solutions. The most common patina color is greenish, which is obtained by oxidizing copper. On other metal surfaces, the resulting shade may be completely different:

• Intense yellow or ocher color on steel surfaces.

• Chocolate brown on brass and bronze items.

• Dark gray on silverware.

The choice of dry patina for working on metal is quite diverse. Powder is sold in almost every hardware store. Most common colors:

• aged silver;
• natural or oxidized copper;
• red gold.

Brighter radical colors are also available, such as blue, lilac, red, allowing you to achieve an original effect on the surface of various metals.

Surface preparation

Decorative application of patina requires careful preparation of the treated surface, the metal must be perfectly smooth. There should be no manifestation of corrosion on it, it will not allow the surface to be well primed, the upper layers will quickly bubble and peel off.

All burrs must be removed, chips, potholes must be puttied and sanded with sandpaper (first coarse, then finer).

The prepared product is covered with a special primer (most conveniently, from a spray can), and then a patina paint for metal is applied to it.

Please note that the patina effect looks best on products painted with dark, especially black paint. The painted product must dry well, otherwise the patina will not lay down well and you will not achieve the desired effect.

Technique of applying paint-patina

There are two ways to age metal: apply a patina with a brush or sponge. Picking up the dissolved paint on the tip of the brush, you can achieve completely different textures, directional strokes and different depths of painting. Do not wet the brush before starting work, it must be dry, a wet brush will give smudges and drops on the treated metal.

Do not take too large or small brushes - optimal size bristles 2-3 cm. The sponge gives the effect of "dusting", but do not press it too hard, otherwise pores will be imprinted on the treated surface.

Have a solvent pad and some base paint ready to go. Patina work should be virtually error-free. Repeated application of patina to the metal in the same place gives an ugly "flat" effect. When staining individual elements be careful: if you accidentally "brushed" nearby, just paint over this area with background paint.

In the video: applying patina to metal.

Patination of metal with oxidizers

Obtaining a patina on metal by immersing it in various chemical compositions- a laborious method, the result of which will be the formation of a colored film (plaque) on the surface of the metal. This type is much more durable, since the film does not wear off quickly under mechanical stress, like paint. If you want to feel like an artist and try to achieve aging of the metal with the help of patinating solutions, you will need special chemicals.

The surface to be treated should be prepared as when working with paint, but not primed or painted, but degreased and bleached in an acid solution. You can carry out all the manipulations at home, create a masterpiece with your own hands or give new life to old objects.

How to make a classic patination at home and get the desired colors? When patinating brass, black or deep brown, olive tint, dark orange or mouse gray are most often sought. Brown color achieved by immersing the metal in a solution of sodium thio-sulfite, popularly known as photofixation.

Acid (sulfuric, hydrochloric, nitric) is first added to the prepared solution and the metal is lowered there. Do not overdo the product! The patina will show up very quickly. Work carefully! Use rubber gloves and take small breaks every 15-20 minutes.

Important! The coating is not very resistant, it must be varnished on top.

How to get other shades:

• To obtain an olive tint, brass products are immersed in a solution consisting of ammonia, water and chlorinated copper oxide (in a ratio of 4/5/2). Be very careful - the composition is toxic.
• A thick orange tint on brass will give a mixture of potassium sulfite, and gray gray - sulfuric liver (5 g sintered mixture of sulfur in powder and potash).
• On copper, as well as on brass, the patina is very effective. On it you can get a black tint (when immersed in a solution of sulfuric liver) and old blackness (if you mix 2-3 g of sulfuric liver, add the same amount of ordinary salt).
• Copper sulfate along with zinc chloride will give a blood red patina.
• Luxurious Blue colour steel will give a mixture of hyposulfite and acetic acid lead (150 g plus 50 g per 1 liter of water). The patina on steel appears both when immersed in a cold solution, and when it is boiled (the shade will be richer).
• To achieve a shade of a raven's wing ("burning"), you can immerse the product in a solution of chromic peak at the rate of 100 g per liter of water. The steel will acquire an amazing metallic glow with a deep, black-blue tint. After about 20 minutes, the steel will be covered with a film of amazing, blue-black tint.
• Bronze products, when patinated, acquire various shades of green and blue. To obtain a light green tint, you will need 3 parts of aluminum chloride, 1.5 5% vinegar and 5 copper salts. The exposure time of the desired shade on bronze is determined visually. The longer the exposure, the deeper, darker the resulting shade will be.

After working with acids, unused fluids must be disposed of without fail. Do not store mixtures! The resulting products must be thoroughly dried, coated on top with a matte or shiny varnish.

Patination, giving objects a touch of antiquity - fascinating process, which will not only captivate all family members, but also allow you to realize design ideas. No matter what type of aging you choose - with paint or a complex process of working with chemicals, the result of painstaking work will be new life your favorite items.

Painting with blacksmith enamels and patina (1 video)

Antique fashion in design is a very strange thing, because not everyone can feel the fine line between “junk” and vintage. Of course, you can buy antiques and furnish your home with them, but they have one significant problem - the lack of modern functionality that we are all so used to.

In this case, there is only one thing left - to buy modern things and artificially age them. And patina paint for metal or wood will help with this, which we will talk about in this article.

The very word "patina" has nothing to do with paints. In fact, patina is a thin film that forms on the surface of the product as a result of its long interaction with oxygen. The most famous type of patina can be considered copper oxide - the same green coating that appears on the surface after long use as shown in the photo below.

On different metals, the oxidation process takes place in different ways, and accordingly the patina has different colors:

• Copper is green.
• Steel - yellow or ocher.
• Brass and bronze - brown.
• Silver - dark grey.

It is the patina that protects the product from decay and at the same time creates a characteristic appearance, which is so appreciated in vintage things. Creation technology protective film on metal has been known for a long time. For example, for many years the weapon went through a special process called "burning".

As a result, the metal becomes more resistant when interacting with water and air, but there are several significant disadvantages of this method:

1. Blueing is a complex process and difficult to do on your own.
2. High final price of the product.
3. It takes a very long time to create such a coating.

But technology does not stand still, and today any metal or even wooden product can be aged in a few minutes, without losing the quality characteristics of the material itself.

If we talk about patina as a paint, then it has practically no protective functions, it is rather a decoration that is applied over the first layer and gives the product an aged look.

Today in specialized stores you can find a patina of various colors:

• Silver.
• Copper in its purest form.
• Green copper oxide.
• Gold.

These are the most common shades, as they are able to imitate various metals and turn ordinary iron into gold or silver.

Unfortunately, patina is far from the "philosopher's stone", so some manufacturers produce completely exotic shades that are not designed to imitate something:

• Violet.
• Blue.
• Red.
• Pink.

Most often they are used when it is necessary to give the product a similarity with the original.

Acrylic patina

This type of patina is not used on metal, as it has poor adhesion to it. Such paints are more suitable for wood, they penetrate into the pores of the product and emphasize the wood structure and fibers.

As a result of such a coating, the product immediately receives several additional qualities:

1. The structure of the tree appears.
2. The play on color transitions gives the product a noble look.

Advice! you should not use patina on pieces of furniture with a characteristic modern style. Such a coating introduces dissonance into the general perception, and a feeling of bad taste of the owner is created.

Furniture patina painting is typical for styles such as:

• Provence.
• Country.
• Classicism.
• Baroque.
• Ethno.

Here it will look harmonious and sustained in the general style.

Patina based on powder dyes

It is powder patina that is used to paint metal. She is sold in ready-made, and when applied, for convenience, it can be dissolved with a solvent or xylene.

Advice! for patination metal products buy only a specialized patina for blacksmithing. She has long term service and does not wear out over time.

Below will be detailed instructions for applying patina, but for now let's summarize everything that has been said and list the advantages of such a coating:

1. As a rule, blacksmith paints are matte, and the patina gives shine to the product.
2. There is a feeling of antiquity.
3. Ordinary steel takes on the appearance of noble metals.
4. With the help of patina, you can stylize furniture under overall design interior.

Application

The technology for applying patina to metal and wood is very different, since acrylic and powder dyes have different goals. Therefore, we dwell on each method in more detail.

Acrylic patina - for wood

Experts call this technology aging wooden products- abrasion. It consists in the fact that a layer of paint is first applied to the tree, which will be the substrate, or, if we are talking about the finished product, then this stage can be omitted.

So:

• Before painting with a patina, the surface is wire brush or coarse sandpaper. Part of the coating is erased and the structure of the tree appears.

Advice! sanding the product, all movements should be in one direction and along the fibers of the tree. Thus, the texture will appear, but the integrity of the tree will not be violated.

• Next, an acrylic patina of the desired color is applied to the surface with a thick layer. She needs to be given a few minutes to penetrate the wood, but do not forget that the longer the product is impregnated, the darker the color will be in the end.
• Now the excess paint is wiped off with a soft cloth or sponge. That patina that did not have time to be absorbed into the pores will go away, and the fibers will take on a new shade. Later, when the product is dry, you can add color intensity by adding another layer of paint, or cover everything with gloss varnish.
• If the technology of application and surface preparation is not entirely clear, then you can watch the video in this article, which shows all the steps in detail.

Blacksmith's patina - for metal

A rather complicated technology, especially if you apply the patina with your own hands, without having the appropriate experience. To do this, we need some kind of palette on which we can smear the paint.

• A thick patina is located in the corner of the palette, and the brush is slightly wetted in solvent or xylene, after which the paint must be rubbed hard until the brush is almost dry.
• Now, with light strokes, touching the product with the very tips of the brush, apply a patina. We get not a uniform coating, but abrasions, which create the effect of antiquity. Thus, the entire product is covered, and it can take a very long time, but the result is worth it.
• Very often, in the absence of experience, there is a desire to grab more patina with a brush at once, so as not to rub it every few strokes. It is absolutely impossible to do this, since the coating will turn out to be uneven, and instead of the effect of antiquity, a poorly dyed and shabby product will appear.

In any case, it is better to first practice on something else, and when the hand feels confident, you can start patinating the product. Now you know how this work is done and you will do everything according to technology.

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