Detailed description diagnostics and repair of middle and high power. The article is written for those who want to repair speakers with the skills of winding and soldering.
I have been repairing speakers for 15 years and I want to pass on the acquired skills and techniques to the Datagorians.
Sorry for the lack of detailed photos of the process, all the equipment and work is now a thing of the past. The speaker wheezed or stopped sounding and you want to bring it back to life? First, diagnostics. We remove the speaker, disconnect the wires from the terminals, having previously marked the polarity. In the future, we adhere to this rule: everything that we disassemble, draw or photograph will help a lot.
We check the winding resistance with the device. There are three options here.
1) Break.
2) Rated resistance.
3) Reduced resistance.
Now the second check. We put the speaker on the magnet and gently move the diffuser up and down. If a rustle or creak is heard, or there is no movement, the speaker will have to be disassembled.
If there is no scratch, and the winding is open - you need to check the conductivity of the flexible wires from the terminals to the soldering of the winding. They are made of threads intertwined with copper veins that break over time. They can be replaced without disassembling the speaker with M.G. wire. T.F. of a suitable section or braided tape to remove excess solder.
We solder the wires so that they do not stretch when the diffuser moves and do not touch it. We glue the place of soldering with Moment glue.
If the speaker needs to be disassembled, disconnect the wires from the terminals, put the speaker on a magnet and with a swab dipped in acetone, soften the glue around the protective cap and remove it, prying it with a not sharp scalpel. In the same way, peel off the outer edge of the diffuser and the outer edge of the centering washer. Carefully pull out the diffuser vertically upwards without distortion.
I do not recommend sticking the coil frame from the diffuser and the centering washer so as not to disturb the alignment of the speaker.
To rewind, you need to assemble a simple fixture, the device of which is clear from the figure. The most difficult part of it is the mandrel for the coil. For its manufacture, you need to contact the turner. Mandrel length 100-150 mm, material - any metal.
We measure the inner diameter of the coil (x). The mandrel for the spool should have a diameter of x+0.5 mm on one end and x-0.5 mm on the other end.
At the larger end, we drill a 3.2 mm hole and cut an M4 thread for attaching the handle.
Drilling through hole 6.5 mm for hairpin. The surface of the mandrel must be sanded.
Now you can start winding. We will need alcohol-based glue, for example, BF-2 or BF-6, MBM capacitor paper, wire and a lot of patience.
Glue is diluted with alcohol. We pierce the centering washer with a needle, thread the winding wire and solder it to the flexible wire. We fix the wire at the place of soldering and at the beginning of the winding, gluing pieces of paper.
If the coil frame is made of metal, we glue it with a layer of paper from the capacitor without overlaying layers. We wind the wire coil to coil, gluing before winding and over. Remove excess glue with your finger. We try to wind not tight, but tightly.
On the first layer we glue the paper from the capacitor without overlapping layers and perform the same steps in reverse order. When the winding is ready and soldered to the terminals, you need to connect them to a 4-5 Volt power source with a current of 1-2 Amperes to dry. The winding will heat up to 50-60 degrees, while the glue will dry and harden, the coil will expand slightly. This will help to easily remove it from the mandrel.
We check the free play of the coil in the gap of the speaker and begin the assembly.
We need to align the coil exactly in the center. There are 2 ways to do this.
1) Place a spacer made of photographic film or x-ray film into the gap.
2) Apply a small amount to the coil constant pressure 2-3 volts to draw it in a little.
We apply a layer of glue "Moment" on the outer edge of the diffuser and the outer edge of the centering washer and lower the diffuser vertically down without skew and without radial displacement, press it. You can turn the speaker upside down on a flat table, and while the glue dries, solder the wires to the terminals.
After the glue dries, remove the gasket and check the free play of the coil in the speaker gap.
If everything is in order, glue the protective cap in place and enjoy the result!
Thank you for your attention!
Pavel (pavel_k)
Israel, Migdal-a-Emek
Born in Siberia in 1960. Since 1975, a radio amateur designer. In 1977 he entered the Tomsk TIASUR.
In 1979-1981 he served in the army, in communications.
After the army he worked in a.n. USSR, was engaged in the assembly and testing of lamp pulse modulators and high-voltage power supplies for them up to 25 kV. He also worked at the Department of Prom. electronics assembler-tester.
From 1990 to 1996 he worked as a radio-television master in a repair studio.
I have been living in Israel since 1996. I work as an electrical technician.
All the time he did not leave his hobby. I made 9 tube and 12 transistor amplifiers. Made a complete restoration of tube amplifiers Marschall, Fender 60s.
Many renovation and improvement projects different equipment.
I use the Internet to search for schemes and exchange experiences. I can help my colleagues with advice.
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To participate in the voting, register and enter the site with your username and password.How to seal a subwoofer speaker, if you find a hole in its diffuser (there are many reasons and negligence and children fooled around and more), do not rush, throw away the old one, look for a new replacement speaker. Such damage is easily and successfully repaired without consequences and a noticeable change in the operation of the subwoofer speaker.
How to glue the subwoofer if there is a problem, now we will help.
What to do
The first question in this case is what to do - glue, than glue, what kind of glue for the subwoofer is needed - rubber, elastic, for example, "88th" or "Moment". Do not panic, everything is fixable, you can save money, without losing sound quality, let's do everything in order.
Tools
To carry out a simple repair, you only need the following tools:
- Tube of glue "Moment"
- Thin cardboard (ideally electric cardboard, it is stronger)
- Suitable screwdriver
- Sharp handy scissors
- Regular hair dryer
Note: To seal the subwoofer, use rubber glue, the use of quick-dry moments is undesirable.
Getting Started
Having assembled a simple repair kit, let's get down to business:
- We disconnect the subwoofer from the amplifier, remove the grille from the speaker with a screwdriver and unscrew the fixing screws from the speaker, carefully remove the speaker from the case, turn it off
- We examine the condition of the speaker cone, we immediately make sure that the conclusions from the voice coil were not damaged
- Using scissors, we cut out a patch from thin cardboard, of such a size that it covers this hole by a centimeter in any direction.
- You can not look for electric cardboard, almost any will do, you can even use cardboard box from under candy
- It often happens that the shape of the diffuser is formed by the so-called double curvature surface
- Then you need to make two or three patches that need to be glued overlapping one to the other
- Align the edges of the damaged part on the diffuser, on the reverse side of it we impregnate the “Moment” glue, the diffuser material, wait a bit for the glue to dry
- Prepare patches of cardboard in advance, then moisten the damaged area on the diffuser with glue with plenty of glue. reverse side, then we immediately apply patches, our goal is to impregnate the parts to be joined with glue
- Then we immediately remove the patches from the diffuser without removing them, you need to wait 20-30 seconds, then attach both patches back
- On the reverse side, press them to the diffuser by placing a roller of cotton wool or synthetic winterizer inside the speaker basket
- It is necessary to ensure that the diffuser does not immediately bulge at the place of gluing, which means that it is necessary to select the optimal force for pressing the patches in order to maintain the initial shape of its diffuser
- After a day, we remove the support roller from the speaker basket, examine how well the connection stuck together
- If you notice unglued areas, then bring the tube of glue to the gap, and gently press the tube and push a drop of glue there
- The main goal is to eliminate chatter when the speaker is working
- With a hair dryer, carefully heat the glue line until the glue boils, remove the hair dryer and squeeze the place of gluing with your fingers
- Hold for at least a minute, after which the glue will grab tightly and will hold the patch
- Gently move the diffuser both in and out to make sure that the coil does not hit the magnet when moving it.
- If necessary, the sealing rubber is replaced, we connect it back to the speaker and install the speaker in place
- As you can see, the subwoofer is not so difficult to glue
- Then you need to do a test turn on at a low volume to make sure that there is no chatter during operation.
- Then we gradually increase the volume to the maximum, listen carefully for the appearance or absence of any extraneous overtones
- If no extraneous overtones are found, you can return the grate to its place
That's all, in my opinion everything is clear even without video.
We glue the speaker
As a rule, there are more speakers in the audio system, so you will need instructions for gluing them:
- If your speaker starts to give out extraneous noise, it means that it could leak from time to time
- To seal the speaker, it is enough to purchase Moment glue (“subwoofer glue” and glue “for speakers” do not exist) and take a piece of cloth or bandage
- And if its damage is significant, then you can’t do without a soldering iron
To repair the speaker with your own hands, you need:
- The same glue "Moment"
- A couple of pieces of thin cloth (perhaps a bandage) in last resort toilet paper
- Sharp knife or scalpel
- Tweezers
- Acetone
Getting Started
The procedure for repairing the speaker, photo above:
- Immediately prepare a bandage, gauze or fabric, then tint it in the color of the speakers Then apply glue to the fabric and carefully glue it on the inside and outside
- If you are afraid of damaging or sticking incorrectly, you can limit yourself to sticking only on the outside
- Touch up the sticker with tweezers
- Wait for the glue to dry completely
- If you have a problem with the speaker, more than holes in the fabric, then the following steps: First we need to unsolder the current-carrying wires from the terminal block
- Then moisten the cap located in the center of the diffuser with acetone
- After the glue has dissolved, take the scalpel, carefully pry it off and then discard the cap
- The same steps must be repeated for the center washer
- Now with the help of acetone the diffuser suspension is separated
- Once separated, remove the diffuser and centering washer from the basket
- Now you have to rewind the coil
- If in the dynamics the coil burned out near the base, then you will first need to solder it, however, so that it does not protrude beyond the base
- When you have everything ready, you can start rewinding
- It is necessary to insert a tube of the desired diameter into the coil and unwind the entire old winding, remembering (which is important) the number of turns
- The coil should be lubricated with "Moment" and wind a new wire
- After that, solder a new winding to the terminals and you can start assembling
- Then we empty the basket and insert the diffuser there
- Using film, you need to center the coil (roll the film into a ring, then it is inserted between the core of this speaker and the coil)
- First you need to glue the diffuser suspension with glue, after drying it - the centering washer (at the same time, be sure to press the gluing points)
- After the glue has hardened, tear off the film and check the reel
- If the course is normal, glue the protective cap, then you need to put the column somewhere until it dries completely
- If, during the test, a crackling of the coil is heard, then you will have to peel everything off and check the winding or centering washer again
- After that, the speaker needs to be checked at its rated power.
That's all, you can certainly buy a new one if the price is not important to you.
The article describes methods for eliminating various malfunctions of loudspeaker heads, as well as some of their improvements in order to increase the durability and quality of sound reproduction associated with the replacement of materials for a moving system.
For more than ten years I have been repairing dynamic speaker heads. Due to the fact that suspensions of both domestic and imported heads become unusable (polyurethane foam crumbles, butyl and fabric suspensions dry out and become rigid), he himself learned to make woven suspensions impregnated using a unique technology that surpasses the originals in a number of properties (frost resistance, durability , solvent resistance). I was able to obtain an impregnation that meets these requirements after two years research work; some of its results are presented on the Internet.
In addition to replacing suspensions, many are interested in the technology for eliminating other head problems: displacements in the magnetic system (MS), breakage of lead wires or coils, centering washer defects, diffuser breaks, dust cap dents. This article describes a technique for eliminating the listed problems, as well as some methods for improving the sound of speakers.
Magnetic head system
1. Core alignment.
As a result of an accidental impact or drop of the head adhesive connection parts of the MS can be broken, as a result of which the core is displaced in the gap and presses the diffuser coil against the washer. For repairs, it is necessary to fix the head on the board or in the same case with the magnetic system inward (or outward). First you need to insert thin and wide knives on both sides between the magnet and the washer and separate the magnet from the metal washer with a screwdriver (it is better to do this together). After detaching the displaced magnet, the MS should be glued again only after the moving system has been peeled off and removed, in order to avoid deformation of the coil. For correct assembly it is necessary to grind a centering sleeve for the core, preferably from non-magnetic metal or hard plastic (kaprolon, fluoroplastic, vinyl plastic), long enough for comfortable grip, because it will have to be pulled out with considerable effort. The outer diameter of the sleeve is equal to the diameter of the hole in the washer, and the inner diameter is equal to the diameter of the core. After that, having removed the old glue and debris from the core and magnet, put the sleeve on the core and assemble the MS. For bonding, you can use epoxy resin, BF adhesives. "Moment" or others suitable for metals. Instead of a sleeve, inserts made of lavsan film can be used by wrapping them around the core.
2. Cleaning the magnetic gap.
In automobile heads, the gap is often clogged with dirt, which disables them. To repair it is necessary to peel off the diffuser, soak the MS for some time in water and then rinse the gap under a strong stream of water. Metal particles adhering to the edges of the gap can be removed with a long sewing needle (they stick to its tip) or a strip of metal from a beer can with an edge bent inward.
3. Disassembly of the magnetic system.
The adhesive connection of MS parts is softened with acetone; it is better to do this by placing it in a plastic bag and pouring solvent into it. To prevent evaporation, the bag must be tied around the MS.
Many MC heads are bonded with an epoxy compound that softens at 150...200°C. Therefore, the puck of such an MS can be heated with an iron set to maximum temperature, or put the MS on a hot pan.
Lead wires
A malfunction associated with a defect in the lead wire manifests itself in the occurrence of clicking sounds at high volume or in a rustling ("spark") overtone. Clicks, as a rule, appear with a large amplitude of vibrations of the moving system from the impact of the supply wire on the diffuser or centering washer. Usually it is enough to bend the lead wire correctly, and if this does not help, glue a piece of foam rubber to the washer or diffuser at the point of contact.
Rustling sounds are due to the appearance of a kink and its sparking, usually near the cone. If the length of the supply wire is sufficient, then you can turn it over and secure it with the other end. Another way is to drag the worn part of the supply wire inside the diffuser or move it, securing it with a clip. If this does not help, then you can make new lead wires as follows:
- twist them from two or three MGTF wires;
- thread three or four cotton threads into a screen braid with conductors of a suitable cross section or into a "wick" to suck out tin when soldering;
- use a litz wire or thin stranded wire insulated for connecting speakers.
The most durable lead wires are Litz wire.
After soldering, the place of attachment of the supply wires to the diffuser should be thickly smeared with Moment-Crystal glue to avoid kink. It is advisable to coat bare wires with Moment-Crystal glue diluted 1:1 with solvent 650 or 646.
Voice coil repair
The main cause of noise (creaking, rustling, clicking) is the grazing of the sleeve (coil frame) on the core or coil turns on the upper washer of the magnetic system. In addition to poor alignment, the reason may be in the sleeve itself, especially the paper one - this is swelling or kinks of the sleeve between the coil and diffuser (photo 1), as well as the edges of the sleeve that have peeled off the coil or the ingress of foreign particles into the gap of the magnetic system.
To eliminate blisters, it is necessary to make a small incision and inject BF glue or similar into it with a syringe with a thin needle and level it; if the delamination does not stick, then a mandrel is inserted into the gap.
The kink of the sleeve is impregnated with zapon-lacquer or BF glue and dried on a mandrel. Then, without removing it from the mandrel, the sleeve is glued on the outside (between the coil and diffuser) with two or three strips of tissue paper, and after drying and removing it from the mandrel, if necessary, cut into it ventilation holes. The exfoliated edges of the sleeve should also be glued and dried by putting it on the mandrel. For the mandrel, use objects that are suitable in size cylindrical shape, brought to the desired diameter with liners made of lavsan film (glue does not adhere well to lavsan).
If the centering is disturbed, the coil must be re-centered.
bumps metal frame coils (sleeves) can be smoothed from the inside with a hard object, for example, a pencil, a screwdriver handle, etc.
To eliminate foreign objects and dirt from the gap of the magnetic system, it is necessary to peel off the cone and clean the gap of the MS.
Weaker signs of noise (squeaks, rustling, clicks) appear when the coil turns are partially peeled off.
Impregnate the unglued coil with such types of glue as BF-2 BF-4, BF-19.
Centering washers (repair and replacement)
Washers can be a source of overtones when peeled off or torn apart.
A loose washer is easy to identify visually: both at the disassembled head and in assembled structure, by shifting the diffuser as much as possible in the direction from the magnetic system. To eliminate the defect, it is best to disassemble the head, completely peel off the washer and again "put" it in its old place with "Moment 1" or "Moment-crystal" glue. You can do this without disassembling the speaker by applying an adhesive seam around the entire perimeter of the junction of the washer with the diffuser.
Sagging (stretched) washers are easy to straighten out over a boiling kettle by holding the repaired head by the diffuser and quickly turning the washer in a circle. At the same time, the spout of the kettle with steam is pressed against the washer in the direction of bending, as shown in photo 2.
"Tucks" (kinks across the wave of the puck) are eliminated as follows: fix the puck in correct position, impregnated with zapon varnish and kept until completely dry.
Breaks. Sometimes washers break near the cone, especially at subwoofer drivers. To restore small gaps, it is enough to smear with Moment-Crystal glue.
A washer that cannot be restored should be replaced with a new one, choosing one that is close in size to other heads. For example, a washer from 10GD-36 fits almost all dynamic heads with a diameter of 6 ... 8 inches. The inner hole in the washer is increased to the desired diameter (photo 3), and the extra waves at the edge are smoothed out with an iron, moistening the washer with water. The iron heat regulator must be set to "cotton".
For a tighter bass, you can stiffen the center washer by impregnating it with Zapon Lacquer, Bakelite, or epoxy resin diluted with acetone to desired consistency. After impregnation, coat the first two waves at the diffuser with Moment-Crystal glue to avoid kinks and give the washer variable elasticity. Such impregnation somewhat increases the resonant frequency and reduces the sensitivity, depending on the degree of impregnation.
Diffuser
Repair of diffusers includes the repair of tears, punctures and bruises.
Most often, dust caps are deformed. Wrinkled caps must be peeled off. But in any case, do not try to straighten the cap by piercing and pulling the dent with a crochet hook or other catchy objects. Woven caps can be ironed by softening them with steam. Paper or plastic caps are smoothed from the inside with hard rounded objects (screwdriver handle, teaspoon).
To fix the shape, the caps should be smeared from the inside with a hard varnish (zapon-lacquer, bakelite, NC). Punctures and tears of caps and diffusers can be smeared with glue from the back and front parts, slightly cleaning the material of fine sandpaper so that the paper dust, mixed with the adhesive that has come out, putty the defect.
The gaps on the back side are glued with thin paper, and the joints are smeared with slightly diluted glue. It is best to use wallpaper paste based on methylcellulose (CMC), diluted to the desired consistency; PVA glue is also suitable.
Diffuser collar (repair and impregnation)
To repair a torn diffuser collar (corrugation), it is better to use Moment-Crystal glue diluted with solvent 646.650, or another elastic one, for example, rubber glue based on natural rubber, which is also good for impregnating the corrugation instead of Guerlain.
Instead of guerlain, which gives a heavy, "fat" sound, acrylic is perfect for impregnating a diffuser - it is acoustically neutral, water-resistant and has good mechanical parameters. For thin and light diffusers, it is best to use the "Se-nezh-sauna" impregnation, diluted with water or black ink in a ratio of 1: 1. The material is impregnated first on one side, and after drying - on the other. For the HF head, once is enough; for the LF-MF heads, the operation can be repeated.
After impregnation, the sound of the loudspeaker is much improved: “elasticity” appears in the bass, “transparency” in the midrange, “air” in the treble
More rigid cones, for example, from woofers, it is better not to impregnate, but to paint acrylic varnishes"Se-nezh", "Lapis lazuli" (also diluted with black ink) using a spray bottle or, diluting the composition very liquidly, with a "Pony" brush in several layers with intermediate drying. In addition to the elegant black color, the dynamic head acquires a more "detailed" sound.
If the paper diffuser needs to be given a beautiful black color, it can be rubbed with black shoe wax. If the wax is poorly absorbed somewhere, then this place should be lubricated with acetone and the wax should be rubbed into it immediately. After drying, it is desirable to lightly polish it with a cloth swab.
Warning: Diffusers painted from "car" aerosol cans lose their appeal over time. appearance because the paint is peeling off them.
Kevlar and carbon fiber cones, especially cheap ones, often have a "caustic" sound from the mutual friction of the woven fibers. In this case, the following impregnations help: polyester varnish, "Moment-crystal" or a thin layer of polyurethane-new foam. All impregnations are applied from the back to a pre-peeled diffuser.
Any impregnation increases the mass of the diffuser, which entails a change in the parameters (primarily the resonant frequency) of the dynamic head, although, as a rule, changes to the AC filters are not required.
Hangers (repair and replacement)
Cone suspension (rubber and butyl) usually produces overtones when it is peeled off from the cone. Gaps (cuts) in the suspension are sealed with glue "Moment-second" (cyanoacrylate), if necessary, diluted acetone.
Decayed foam, dried woven, butyl and rubber pads cannot be repaired, so they must be replaced with others.
In some cases, if the diffuser is badly damaged and cannot be restored, you can pick up a replacement for it from faulty heads found on the radio market with other or smaller defects (coil breakage, deformation of the "basket", etc.). This advice is suitable, of course, for the repair of relatively common dynamic heads.
Literature
- Zodniev P. Diffuser hangers. - http://www.podves.narod.ru.
- Zhbanoa V. About mechanical damping of diffusers. - Radio, 1988, No. 5, p. 41-43.
Publication date: 07.12.2007
Readers' opinions
- ostap / 11.10.2016 - 22:45
Cut off the outer part of the rubber suspension (sony SS-L90VH). his treatment options. Please. - Sergey / 13.05.2014 - 18:31
The craftsman's tweezers in the photo are good. - Vitaly / 27.11.2013 - 20:18
The desire to do something with your own hands is a commendable phenomenon. But if something happened out of fright, you don’t need to spread it as know-how. Dimon offers to disassemble the magnetic system, but the fact that it is absolutely impossible to do this is not enough brain. Anatoly asks to rewind the coil, but who will give the data? On the next branch, the non-children's felling is about high-temperature adhesives (200-300 degrees), but such a temperature occurs only when the voice coil is very heavily overloaded. Shkolota wants to squeeze a kilowatt out of a 20 watt dyne. and no one will give on the head, what would reason with. Another cretin in his wife's nail polish spioneril and hiccups with delight and advises everyone with a show off. For coils up to 50 watts, bf-2 is ideal, everything above is epoxy. - Dmitry / 28.07.2013 - 09:40
How can I learn Japanese? I have JVC sk-s21. The gap is full of magnetic garbage! I don't want to screw it up! I won't forgive myself for this! - Yurik / 10.11.2012 - 12:45
I have 2 columns with an orbit c30. Their maximum is 75 in the 4th. The question is whether they can handle them on tda 7294, as I know some on tda after half the volume are burning. will tda7294 withstand? - femtobot / 04.11.2011 - 06:09
Have you tried drinking gutalin? - Dimon / 10/18/2010 - 2:30 pm
Present interesting tips! regarding cleaning car speakers, I think that the gap cannot be effectively cleaned with a jet of water, the best way is to completely disassemble the magnetic system and thoroughly clean it from magnetic dust, sand and other debris, you can also pour natural rubber glue into the gap (it does not stick to metal) wait when it dries (several hours) and "hug" the dirt in the gap, pick it all out with a match ... very convenient! dare - Dimon / 18.10.2010 - 14:25
The speakers from the S90 are simply wound, you disassemble it, it is disassembled like a constructor with the help of a solvent. advice on rewinding coils in the internet is unmeasured !!! Good luck! - Olzhas / 14.07.2010 - 17:03
I have a Speaker from s90, but the coil was damaged on it, how can I rewind her answer myself with a new one, please - Anatoly / 20.04.2010 - 08:33
I used to do this when I was young. I recently found old 3-cavity 1981 AKAI (55 W) speakers that I bought in Budapest. I didn’t touch the filters, I replaced the tweeters and midrange speakers with more powerful ones, but I can’t pick up the woofers by size, the mounting dimensions are not included, and I don’t want to spoil the box. Because equipment remained at the former place of residence, it is not easy to do repairs. Therefore, I would gladly give the regular speakers for repair, rewind the sleeves (under 80-150 W of power), replace the diffusers, washer and suspension. I would be grateful if someone would take care of it. The outrageous price doesn't really matter. Phone in Moscow 8 916 925 6454. Anatoly.
One of the inexpensive but necessary elements in the structure of the speaker is the bottom suspension. It regulates the movement of the device strictly within certain limits. Actually, this is the centering washer of the speaker. As a rule, it has a wavy profile and is made of elastic fabric with special impregnation. When disassembling older speakers, you can find washers made of cardboard or other natural materials: linen, cotton, cambric. Modern parts are not produced from them, since the use of natural components in this case is impractical: they quickly lose their desired characteristics with a long vertical position or with prolonged (for several days) exposure to high humidity.
Part Requirements
Good sounding is provided largely by centering. It directly affects the quality of the speaker head and provides correct location voice coil. The characteristics that a good centering washer should have are determined by its function:
- maximum rigidity in a horizontal position to prevent contact of the voice coil with the walls of the gap of the magnetic system;
- high plasticity in the axis, which provides a low frequency of resonant movements;
- significant elasticity, due to which non-linear distortions of the reproduced signal are minimized.
Only under these conditions will it be possible good quality sound and clarity. In order to buy centering washers for speakers, you need to measure the outer and inner diameters of the part itself, as well as the waves. It is these parameters, combined with the material from which the part is made, that are the key when choosing.
New sound
The subwoofer centering washer, which you can buy at the Autopodium auto electronics store, is quite inexpensive. Here you can also find all the necessary components for its installation. Thus, the speaker centering washer, the price of which ranges from 103 to 1,318 rubles. depending on the series of the device and its dimensions, it is perhaps the most affordable component.
With spare parts from the Autopodium store, your subwoofer will sound in a new way!
Navigating the FAQ.
Pages 6
How to glue the sleeve and centering washer to the diffuser?
It is best to glue the sleeve into the diffuser immediately after winding the coil. The final drying of the coil can be postponed until later.
If the coil leads are to be routed from the outside of the diffuser, they can be carefully laid and glued to the sleeve before the latter is glued into the diffuser.
However, in order not to spoil the appearance of the speaker, it is better not to remove the leads from the outside of the diffuser, but to glue the new coil leads with inside diffuser. In addition, there is no need to remove the dust cap.
Expand the image to full screen to see the full size video.
To obtain a reliable adhesive connection, it is necessary to ensure a minimum gap between the hole in the diffuser and the outer surface of the sleeve. If the gap is large, then an additional paper gasket should be glued to the sleeve.
When gluing the sleeve into the diffuser, the adhesive is also applied to both contact surfaces.
As the adhesive cures, the bonding pair is rotated, and the position of the mating surface of the suspension is controlled by some stationary reference.
If the suspension is too elastic and its shape is broken during dismantling, then you can navigate along the junction of the suspension with the diffuser.
When the glue dries, you can remove the sleeve from the template.
Before soldering the coil leads to the pigtails, make sure that the coil leads are connected with the correct polarity. The polarity of the connection must match the marking or color of the sockets.
The positive output of the speaker is indicated either by an arbitrary label, or by a "+" (plus) sign, or by the red color of the socket.
If you wound the speaker coil, and the north pole of your speaker magnet is at the bottom, then the beginning of the coil is connected to the negative terminal, and the end to the positive one.
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If there is no initial data for determining the polarity, then it is enough to final assembly lower the mobile system into the basket, connect the source to the coil terminals direct current(0.5 ... 1 Volt) and see in which direction the diffuser will move. If a plus is connected to the positive terminal, then the diffuser should move up.
Click on the picture to see a 3 second video.
Then the coil leads are laid without a gap on the surface of the sleeve and diffuser and soldered to the flexible leads. After that, the conclusions, places of soldering and places of fastening of flexible leads are glued with glue.
You can remove the varnish from the coil leads and at the same time tin them with the help of such a simple device.
To make it, you need to heat a paper clip with a soldering iron and melt it into an Aspirin (salicylic acid) tablet.
After the glue that secures the coil leads has dried, a centering washer is glued to the diffuser.
When gluing the centering washer, both contact surfaces are covered with glue. During the curing of the adhesive, a weight is placed on the centering washer.
Dry the coil before final assembly as described.
