/ Fiberboard on the ceiling - what to paint with?

Fiberboard on the ceiling - what to paint with?

Fiberboard – durable and inexpensive material, which is often used for finishing various surfaces– from floor to ceilings. However, if on the floor or walls such materials are usually hidden under a layer of external coating, then on ceilings such surfaces most often have to be painted. The painting technology is not too complicated, but it is very important to choose the right thing with which you are going to paint the fiberboard on the ceiling.

Preparing the plane

This material has one feature that forces you to approach the preparation process more carefully and devote a lot of time to it - high absorbency. Therefore, all surfaces to be painted must be carefully processed. The preparation process includes the following simple operations:

• Cleaning. The entire ceiling area intended for painting must be thoroughly cleaned of dust, dirt and other things.
• Grinding. After the surface is completely cleaned, it must be sanded smooth. If the roughness is not too strong, you can use fine-grained sandpaper, but if the defects are large enough, you will have to first use sandpaper with larger grains, and only after that switch to fine-grained ones.
• Degreasing. For a good adhesion of the paint, it is not enough to simply sand the surface. It must be degreased with alcohol or another similar composition.
• Sealing joints. There may be joints between individual fragments of the coating that need to be puttied. You will need reinforcing tape and a special type of putty, since the standard one will not work here.
• After sealing the joints, another grinding is performed, which will allow the joints of the parts sealed with putty to be leveled.
• When the last layer of putty applied has dried, the entire surface is primed. It is best to use alkyd primers with a high drying speed.

At this point, the preparation of the structure for painting is completed and it will be possible to proceed directly to the process of applying paintwork materials, having previously selected the most suitable coloring composition.

Paint selection

Despite some features of surface preparation, you can use almost any paint - acrylic, water-based or alkyd. The thing is that with a correctly selected primer mixture, the absorbency of the material is significantly reduced and almost any type of paintwork material is suitable.

Important: in order for the paint composition to “adhere” better and the quality of painting to be at its best, it is best to use solutions on the same basis as the primer mixture applied at the surface preparation stage.

It is also important to choose the right tool for applying a layer of paintwork. The main area of ​​the ceiling can be painted with a standard roller with a velor attachment, but for better painting of the junction areas individual fragments for coatings finished with putty and reinforcing tape, it is better to use a brush - a maklavitsa or another similar one. The same brush is convenient for painting corners.

Otherwise, the choice of paint and varnish depends on your preferences regarding the resulting surface. Alkyd enamels will give the ceiling shine and smoothness, and water-soluble compounds create a matte finish that gives the structure maximum resemblance to a regular whitewashed ceiling.

The color scheme can be varied and selected according to your wishes. If you use color, it is better to immediately dilute the amount of mixture required for work. This will allow you to obtain a homogeneous composition of the same color. If you tint in several stages, there is a high probability of not matching the color of the previous composition.

Important: if for ceiling covering a moisture-resistant type of fibreboard was used, which will not work - the paraffin impregnation used to treat slabs of this type will not allow the composition to adhere properly and it will “slide” like water from greasy surfaces.

The use of special devices together with correctly selected paints or varnishes gives interesting visual effects. For example, alkyd varnish, which you “walked” over with a special applicator, will create a coating similar to natural wood.

Fiberboards are used for the production of furniture, covering floors and walls, and the construction of partitions and enclosing structures. However, not everyone knows how to paint fiberboard, because this material differs from ordinary plywood or wood. We will tell you how to prepare fiberboard for painting and how painting work is carried out.

Painting fibreboard – Fibreboard is sometimes painted – can be done with a brush.

Painting of fibreboards

Peculiarities

Before you paint fiberboard, you should find out what kind of material it is and what its features are. As the name suggests, these are boards made from wood fibers. Fibers are obtained in different ways: by processing wood chips and shavings, plant fires, crushed wood and other waste from the woodworking industry.

The fibers are collected and pressed when heated with the addition of synthetic resins, as well as water-repellent additives (paraffin, rosin) and pectol. Soft varieties of this product can be produced without the addition of resins, due to the lignin released from the cells of wood fibers during pressing. Various targeted additives are also added to the boards - fire retardants, fungicides and antiseptics.

As a result, fairly strong and smooth slabs are obtained, which are characterized by the following qualities:

• High strength. The ST series slab grades can be used for the construction of floors, carriages, furniture and other structures that require the ability to withstand high mechanical loads;
• Low price. Due to the fact that the material is produced from waste, its cost is significantly lower than the cost of solid wood or plywood. This explains the popularity of this product in various fields of production and construction;
• Moisture resistance. With appropriate treatment, fiberboard can withstand high humidity and be used as an enclosing structure in car building, packaging production and other areas of economy and industry;
• Durability. Factory impregnation with special preparations makes the slabs unsuitable for feeding fungi and bacteria, as well as insects and other pests. This allows the material to serve for a long time without any significant changes in composition and structure.

Important! Modern MDF material is a type of fiberboard, only fibers of certain types of wood and special pressing technology are used for its production.

Attention! Except general characteristics, we want to highlight one more, at first glance, insignificant feature. This feature lies in the fact that, due to some technological subtleties, the material very actively absorbs and absorbs liquids. This is important from a painting point of view.

Materials

Any wood paint is suitable for working with slabs. Since floor coverings are most often made from this material, let's talk about this area of ​​finishing.

Paint for fiberboard floors is selected taking into account the characteristics of use, the following options are possible:

• . Any wear-resistant floor coverings based on natural or synthetic drying oils are suitable. Most often, compositions based on pentaphthalic drying oils modified with alkyd resins (PF-115, PF-226, etc.) are used;
• Wear-resistant acrylic paints based on aqueous dispersions. More expensive, but also more quality option coatings, especially for living rooms and bedrooms;
• Alkyd-urethane and epoxy compounds. They are characterized by high strength and reliability, but are also quite expensive and difficult to apply, since they often consist of two components and require preliminary preparation, taking into account the lifetime of the diluted material.

Important! Since fiberboard is one of the cheapest flooring options, it would be logical to assume that its finishing should also be in the lower price category. Therefore, in the future we will consider processing slabs with oil enamel paint PF-226.

Execution of work

Now about how to paint a fiberboard floor.

If you intend to do the work yourself, our instructions will help you:

1. Before painting fiberboard floors, the slabs should be prepared. To do this, they should be cleaned of dust and dirt, the cracks should be filled with putty and the surface should be degreased with industrial alcohol. Next, you should heat the oxol drying oil to 50 degrees and apply it with a brush in one layer over the entire surface;

1. After complete drying, mix the contents thoroughly. For greater fluidity, you can slightly dilute the composition with white spirit or solvent;

1. Apply with medium pile. Make the layer thin, blend the coating evenly over the entire floor;

1. We wait for the enamel to dry completely - at least a day. Then apply the next layer, but with undiluted paint. We complete the work by applying the third layer after the second has completely hardened.

Important! Alkyd enamel is toxic, so you need to work in a well-ventilated area using a respirator and other personal protective equipment.

Conclusion

Fiberboard – widely used construction material, especially for covering floors and walls. Painting slabs can make them more attractive and extend their service life.

The instructions and video in this article will help you understand the intricacies of painting.

For some time now it has become an obsessive tradition that a painting should be executed on canvas in oil. Different types arts have long been of varying interest to their fans. Some especially gifted individuals devote their lives to this already professional level. The good news is that recently the circle of purchasers of original works of art has noticeably expanded.

Among them there are not only knowledgeable, understanding, experienced, more or less knowledgeable fans, but also, increasingly, simply not indifferent amateurs. Just please, no offense. In other forms of art, I myself am a decent amateur. This is now our level or the level of our culture. The limits of understanding of the majority of such connoisseurs are “like it, don’t like it, some friends have this, etc.” And they, as a rule, want to have oil paintings on canvas. This word "canvases" What once unconsciously sunk into their consciousness now sits there like a thorn, becoming a criterion, a standard. On canvas - this is genuine art, not on canvas - this is something from the “beware of fakes” series. And such connoisseurs come to artists for paintings in advance with an unhealthy mistrust. They conduct conversations, feigning competence, saying the key words “canvas, canvases, on canvases.” At the same time, teaching. And, in my opinion, here everything is decided by the master, which means to use depending on the creative tasks. But rather, out of necessity, the performing artist has to follow the lead of such customers according to the principle “for your money, your every whim.”

Previously I wrote on canvases. Canvas is a fabric woven from threads made from flax fibers. Fabrics woven from threads made from fibers of other plants have different names. Preparing the right canvas for an oil painting on a fabric base or canvas is quite difficult and expensive. The slats for the stretcher, on which the canvas will subsequently be stretched, must be made of wood coniferous species, properly dried, straight-layered, without knots or other defects. Otherwise, the slats may subsequently bend, the canvas may become deformed, and wrinkles will appear. When there are changes in humidity fabric base sagging or stretching too much. If the picture is very large, then there is a tendency for the fabric base to sag from its own weight. Further, with careless use, dents, bumps, tears and other things may appear on the surface of the paintings. mechanical damage, arising from pressure, impacts, etc.

It is better to do further work on sizing and priming yourself in the same way. It's complicated. There is a danger of re-sticking the canvas. There are many soil recipes. The recipe for the selected primer composition, the technology for its preparation and application should be strictly observed. It is necessary to thoroughly clean out knots and other irregularities. Ready-made primed factory canvases do not suit me, just like my artist friends. Nodules are not cleaned at the factory. And with a fine writing style, like mine, for example, all these little bumps become visible, sparkle, and when illuminated from the side, they also cast a shadow. You may come across a canvas with a very strong primer or with poor adhesion to the paint layer. For example, in some famous paintings by I. Repin, painted on primed factory canvases, the paint is crumbling. It is still unknown how these soils are mixed; the list could take a long time.

Now about the stretchers. A little history. At first, for a long time, the subframes were rigid and motionless. In the 18th century, movable stretchers with wedges appeared, which can be used to adjust the degree of canvas tension if necessary. However, in the 19th century, artists again returned to the fixed structure. Now on sale in the assortment are entirely movable stretchers with wedges, even in small postcard-sized formats. I think everything is simple here. Additional parts and carpentry operations cost more. It is more difficult to stretch the canvas onto a movable stretcher. Adjusting canvas tension using wedges is ineffective. The nails holding the canvas are driven in and cannot be moved apart. Therefore, the canvas can only be tightened or loosened in an area within a narrow strip along the edges along the perimeter, width from the edge to the first nail.

With the advent Fibreboard (fibreboard, hardboard) Another type of pictorial basis appeared. From the experience of my personal and other artists, fiberboard is a simple, convenient, durable, rigid, fairly elastic, unpretentious, ready-to-use, cheap, accessible base, always on sale. Paintings painted on a strong, rigid base, in this case on properly prepared fiberboard, have much fewer problems and more advantages than paintings on a fragile fabric base, canvas. Canvases for paintings made from fibreboard, in comparison with canvas, “forgive” many mistakes when preparing them for oil painting, which may occur during sizing and priming. They almost do not react to changes in temperature and air humidity. I paint all my exhibition paintings on fiberboard., and they are easily tolerated, as a rule, bad conditions long-distance transportation to exhibitions. In frames, tied in pairs, facing inwards, with special soft pads between the frames, they are strong packages in themselves.

Large format fiberboard straight from the store, it usually has a slightly curved shape various reasons surface. I have seen how, to support and level their large paintings on fiberboard canvases, famous artists use a solid, rigid, independent wooden lattice frame made of thin slats, simply leaned against the back of the painting and fixed to the frame. Glue wooden slats It is not possible for fiberboard. At the same time, the existing slight curvature of the surface of the paintings is preserved. To solve this problem, there is my simple little invention based on the experience of the restorers of the Tretyakov Gallery. I strengthen the base of the painting from large format fiberboard with an area of ​​approximately 1.5 m2 to the largest standard size 170*275 cm parquet flooring. This is a lightweight wooden lattice frame, firmly attached to the fiberboard on the back of the picture. It levels and holds its entire surface in a plane, while remaining completely movable. Everything has been tested by 8 years of practice.

Fiberboard also has one side that is smooth and the other side embossed, similar to the grain of canvas. It's up to you to choose from.
Having suffered with canvases at one time, I long ago chose a strong, rigid, fairly flexible base, fiberboard.

From the history of painting materials, very briefly

Basics for easel oil painting:
Wood is the earliest material, from the 13th century. (Leonardo da Vinci painted the famous “La Gioconda” on a poplar board in oil. To this day, icons are traditionally painted on boards in tempera.)

Fabric - later, from about the 16th century, more widely from the 17th century. (Canvas, four slats, stretched, nailed and flat surface ready. It's much faster and easier than making a board, but not as durable.)

Metal – from the 16th century.

Parchment and paper - from the 9th century.

But, if the painting must subsequently be removed from the stretcher and rolled, which already shortens its lifespan, then a fabric base, canvas, is the best option.

And therefore, when the conversation comes up about what material to use for paintings, I first objectively explain the whole situation. The final decision is up to the customers, so that there are no complaints later.

A little about my painting

I try to bring the compositions of paintings to perfection and, at the same time, so that the landscapes of my native places are recognizable. I paint mostly with oil paints. My writing is multi-layered, it takes time, many sessions. I try to follow technology. I dry the layers correctly, at least for the required time. I use special varnishes for layer-by-layer painting, wiping them over sufficiently dry paint layers for better adhesion to subsequent layers and to prevent the paints from fading. I already have more than 100 colors and their shades oil paints. I study the properties of paints. For each painting, depending on the creative task, I select a group of paints by color and chemical composition so that the mixtures are favorable and the paintings do not subsequently change color and tone. I prepare the topcoat varnish in such a way that the varnish coating retains the depth of the colorful tones and does not give off reflections that interfere with perception. I can make simple frames for myself, but more serious, luxurious ones can be ordered from art salons.

If anyone is interested in my little invention for parquet flooring of fiberboard panels for large paintings, let me know. It takes time to describe in detail, although everything is very simple.
That's all for now.

www.artur-vuimin.narod2.ru
Email: [email protected]

Most people believe that the process of painting fiberboard is simple. But more often than not, this opinion remains this way until it is necessary to paint fiberboard in practice - the number of problems that beginners face in this matter is difficult to overestimate. Let's see how and with what to paint fiberboard (fibreboard).

Fiberboard is made by pressing waste left over from woodworking. When exposed high pressure And high temperatures a smooth and light material is formed. Due to their advantages, the slabs can be used for cladding walls, floors, and you can often see fiberboard on the ceiling. The material is also widely used for the production of cabinet furniture.

Among the main advantages are:

• Affordable price. The board is made from various wood processing waste. It also contains sealing resin and antiseptic additives. The price of these materials is significantly lower than other analogues.
• Strength. On the modern construction market, fiberboard slabs of varying degrees of strength are offered - the strongest of them is marked “ST”.
• Resistant to moisture. If you properly treat the fiberboard and then paint it, the material will be well protected from moisture.
• High durability. At the production stage fiberboard sheets coated with special impregnations that protect the material from fungal growths or insects. As a result, the slabs can retain their original appearance for a long time.

Like any other material, fiberboards have their downsides, but there are only two of them:

• impossibility of use in various load-bearing structures;
• Decorative processing is possible only on one side.

The slabs are excellent for arranging rough or finished floors, but their surface must first be carefully treated.

On the video: types of wood boards - characteristics and features.

Dyeing technology

The technology for painting fiber board is no different from painting any other materials. The process is carried out in several stages:

• collection of tools;
• surface preparation for painting;
• choice of paint;
• direct painting;
• application of a protective coating.

Required Tools

To paint a fiberboard floor you need to prepare:

• a fur roller (foam rubber is not suitable for these purposes);
• paint brush;
• paint tray;
• rag;
• vacuum cleaner.

Surface preparation

Must be taken into account important nuance– before performing any work with fiberboards, the fiberboard is first brought to a certain humidity. Otherwise, over time, the slab will move in waves, thereby ruining the floor or wall. It’s easy to moisten fiberboard: reverse side the sheet is wetted warm water, and then fold the sheets in pairs. The slabs should be left to dry for a day.

Floors are often made from fiberboard. So that a fiberboard floor can boast the same service life as wooden base, it is important to treat it correctly, including painting. A hardboard floor is very porous - any paint will be absorbed there in a significant amount than into a concrete or wooden floor.

Experts first suggest covering the surface with a primer - if this is not done, then a positive result can be achieved, but the paint consumption will be very large.

Paint for fiberboard should be applied only to the glossy side of the sheet - the other side is not suitable for this. On the other side, a primer is more appropriate. Due to the peculiarities of its manufacturing and structure, the slab is capable of absorbing 4 times more paint, and applying a primer is one of the stages before painting.

Primer materials are now widely represented on the construction market. Fiberboard and hardboard are traditionally treated with drying oil - this is an affordable and practical product. But the drying oil should be heated to 40 degrees.

Before applying the primer, the slabs are thoroughly cleaned of dust. This can be done either with an ordinary rag or with a vacuum cleaner. The cracks in the floor are sealed with tape or reinforced tape. The entire remaining surface must be degreased - you can use a solvent or alcohol.

The primer is applied with a roller. Experts recommend applying several layers. When the slab is impregnated with drying oil in three layers, the resistance of the material to moisture significantly increases. To increase the service life of hardboard, it is necessary to process it after the cutting is done, but before the laying process.

Paint selection

Painting of fiberboard is carried out using any coloring enamels, however, it is better to choose super-hard types of paints. They are marked “ST”. It is these dyes that will give the floor maximum resistance to wear. As alternative options oil and alkyd paints are used.

Water-based paints are not suitable in this case - they will not be able to adhere to the fiberboard coating. The slab contains paraffin - it will repel paint.

You can also use decorative varnish instead of paint. There are also some tricks with which you can create unusual color solutions. Yes, to simulate natural wood You can apply liquid bitumen varnish to the surface with a brush. To create a coloring with the effect " plastic surface» use glossy compounds.

Painting process

For painting work, experts do not recommend using foam sponges or brushes - these tools will not allow you to distribute the dye evenly over the surface. As a result, divorces will remain. Most the best choice- this is a spray gun, but it will do fur roller. For work on small areas You can use spray paint - the process will go much faster.

The paint in the jar is thoroughly mixed and, if necessary, diluted with a solvent to the desired consistency.

How to paint fiberboard? First, the first coat of paint is applied. If it seems that somewhere the dye has been absorbed poorly or too well, then the defect is not corrected, but wait until it dries completely. The next layer is applied to the painted layer after the first one has completely dried. It takes about a day to completely dry.

You can’t make a common mistake and create drafts in the room - the paint won’t dry faster than necessary. For the second layer the paint should be thick. The third layer is applied after the second has dried. After painting, fiber boards not only improve aesthetically, but also increase their strength and other characteristics.

How to cover wood (1 video)

Despite its apparent simplicity, painting plywood, hardboard and chipboard has its own subtleties. As you know, all these materials are made of wood, but each of them has its own properties that must be taken into account when painting.

Painting plywood and veneer

Before you learn how to paint plywood, you need to understand what it is. So, plywood is a multilayer material made from several layers of veneer (thinly cut layers of wood) of birch, spruce or pine glued together. Plywood can be sanded or unsanded and varies in grade. The highest grade of product is designated by the letter “E” (elite), meaning that both sides are sanded smooth and have no knots on the surface.

The remaining grades are designated by Roman or Arabic numerals from one to four, with the category indicated for both sides of the plywood. For example, marking II/IV indicates that the face veneer (it is designated as a two) has small knots and cracks up to two millimeters in size. Number IV in this case indicates that the so-called underside of the sheet can be wavy, have diverging cracks up to a centimeter wide and voids from fallen “dead” knots. Grade IV/IV plywood sheets are used, as a rule, only in places where they will be hidden - for example, when constructing a subfloor.

When purchasing plywood that will subsequently be painted on one side, you should pay attention to 2/4 grade sheets. If you plan to paint it with two sides, then it is best to choose plywood marked 2/2 or, if funds allow, 1/1. If already available ready product made of this material, the surface of which is not smooth, it is better to sand it with sandpaper before painting.

If the plywood was purchased from a warehouse where the air humidity is quite high, it should be left for several days at room temperature.

You can paint plywood sheets with both varnish and paint. Best fit paints and varnishes alkyd based. You can paint sanded plywood with varnish without any pre-treatment, using any convenient brush or mohair roller. Painting plywood sheets enamel requires pre-treatment. In most cases, gray or red-brown GF-021 primer is used. You can apply paint to the sheets after it has completely dried. Special attention When refining plywood, attention should be paid to the ends. They need to be painted especially carefully, applying the coating in several layers.

Just like plywood, you can paint furniture, covered with veneer. The only difference is that, as a rule, they are treated with varnish in production. Therefore, first you will have to work hard - remove the old coating with sandpaper, and this must be done only by hand so as not to damage the structure of the material. Painting of veneer in most cases is done with stain on water based, which is applied in several layers. However, alkyd enamel or water-based paint are also quite suitable for veneer, however they will completely hide its color and most textures. For painting it is best to use a small velor roller.

Painting chipboard

Unlike plywood, which is made from solid veneer, chipboard is made from compressed wood shavings glued together with formaldehyde resins. It is in these resins that the danger lies - their vapors, which are released during operation, are quite harmful to humans. Therefore, to protect against them, non-laminated chipboard sheets It is recommended to paint. Of course, this material is not used to create furniture - as a rule, it is placed on the subfloor, but it can be accepted additional measures safety is still worth it. It is not necessary to paint such sheets - you can simply treat them with natural drying oil on both sides, not forgetting the ends.

If we are talking about laminated material (chipboard), then painting it is somewhat more difficult. First of all, you need to take sandpaper with a small grain and carefully sand the surface until matte, then carefully remove all dust. Then laminated chipboard They are painted with GF-021 primer, after which they are lightly sanded again. For painting, you can use alkyd enamel of any color, which must be applied in 2-3 layers. Paint laminated chipboard small is better velor roller, as the brush will leave noticeable marks on the slab.

Painting of fiberboard

Painting fiberboard (fibreboard) is more difficult than the above materials. Hardboard(another name for fiberboard) is made by pressing wood fibers, so the material turns out to be quite porous, which means it absorbs a large number of paints. To reduce its consumption, the surface of the sheet must be pre-treated. To do this, you can use heated to 50 °C natural drying oil or the same soil GF-021. Before applying them, the surface should be lightly sanded for better adhesion to the ground. By the way, they paint only the smooth side of the sheet, since the “wrong side” does not lend itself well to any processing.

After the drying oil has dried, you can begin painting. Here, again, any paint you like will do, be it oil-based or alkyd. It must be applied with a roller, as a brush will leave streaks. You can use paint in spray can- it will evenly cover the entire surface of the hardboard.

Using all the tips on painting, you can give a new “sound” to familiar furniture and give it a second life. Any drawing will create uniqueness and originality for the updated items - here the scope for creativity is unlimited.