The market offers a large number of materials that allow you to create raised beds with your own hands at the dacha. Various vegetable crops are grown annually using this method, obtaining abundant harvests. For example, the advantages of high pallet fences are convenience and order. Plastic beds also have certain advantages. At the same time, tall structures take up a lot of space, which is considered their disadvantage.
Beautiful tall vegetable gardens
The availability of fertile land in sufficient quantities is suitable for creating greenhouse structures. It is better to arrange a tall garden with your own hands in this way according to the requirements:
- Choosing the right place for the garden bed.
- Determining the size of the plot.
- Making a frame from scrap materials.
- Filling the fence with fertile soil mixture.
- Availability protective coating structures.
- Periodic harvesting.
Option from the board
Beautiful fencing suitable for early sowing different varieties and plant species. They have several advantages:
- any well-lit places are suitable summer cottage, including areas with rocky or;
- heating of the contents of the box occurs intensively in the spring;
convenient watering; - protection from bad weather and ensuring the safety of mulch;
- the presence of a drainage layer eliminates moisture stagnation;
- digging and weeding large areas is no longer required;
- use sand or crushed stone to fill paths between rows.
Wooden box
It is recommended to create raised beds at the dacha with your own hands in order to solve a number of problems associated with slow development vegetable crops. Fences are created individual conditions growing seedlings when choosing the most suitable soil mixture. It is important to ensure constant watering of the beds to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture.
Fencing materials
When making the box, logs, bricks, corrugated sheets or stone are used. If you build it from pallets with your own hands, red or cedar wood, this will increase the service life of the structure. The bottom inside it is usually covered with plastic or to protect against rodents.
Setting up raised beds does not require the use of expensive equipment. For example, having made a box with your own hands, it is better to stretch a polyethylene film over it. Arcs made of metal or are pre-installed. The greenhouse must have dimensions corresponding to the dimensions of the bed made of brick, wood, blocks or stone. This will protect the seedlings from frost and extend the harvest period.
When is the best time to do it and what to plant?
Fall or late summer are better times to create your own raised beds. If you start working in the spring, during this period the impact of emerging processes on the development of seedlings is very weak and imperceptible.
It is better to fill fences created in spring a month before planting seedlings.
Such vegetable gardens will decorate the yard
To fill raised beds at the dacha with your own hands, photos of which are presented below, the autumn period is most suitable.
Precisely when the development of internal processes in the earth continues. The layers in the box that have rotted over the summer provide the plant root system with the optimal amount of useful elements.
Plant rotation
Seedlings are usually planted immediately after the construction of structures. After harvesting ripe vegetable crops, they begin to alternate them annually with healthy herbs, for example, parsley, dill. This allows for abundant harvests every year.
Great garden option for strawberries
The internal decomposition process will prevent strawberries from freezing during severe frosts. This is possible if the raised beds for strawberries are covered with snow or special material in winter. When planting plants in a warm bed, it is convenient to grow them in it due to the least evaporation of moisture.
High bed for cucumbers and tomatoes
A bed for cucumbers or tomatoes is built according to a principle reminiscent of the method of arranging a fence for growing. The only difference is the need to install supports with crossbars along the edges to ensure crop support. Each cucumber vine, tied with a wire stretched between it, produces a bountiful harvest.
Most appropriate place at the dacha they are often equipped with several boxes. When doing them on the lawn, they leave room for working with a lawn mower. Be sure to provide a certain distance between the rows for the delivery of fertile soil, mulch or fertilizers in special wheelbarrows.
Preparing boxes
Processing of wood material
The boards are cut taking into account the dimensions of the frame. Substances hazardous to human health should not penetrate the soil, therefore treated wooden elements covered with film. Then the processing is carried out in stages. This requires:
- Cut the timber into 50 cm sections.
- Impregnate with a protective compound.
- Dry the material.
Various location options on the site
The earth is dug up at the same time as the fine grass to increase the permeability of the soil. If there is sufficiently dense soil, you can remove the turf taking into account the markings. The advantage of laying out a box of boards is that it does not require removing too much soil.
DIY frame installation
Construction device
The markings made before creating the fence allow you to build a perfectly level structure. During installation, check the dimensions of all components of the box. The frame is made correctly if the diagonals of opposite corners are the same.
Step-by-step instructions that allow you to create raised beds with your own hands involve completing several basic steps:
- Move the frame to the marked area.
- Place the shields according to the markings.
- Make recesses for supports.
- Check the accuracy of the installation of the shields with a level.
- Remove excess soil or place stakes.
- Having finished making the high beds, fertile soil is poured into each of them.
Compost preparation
Mulching the soil causes more intense evaporation of moisture. Do not leave gaps in compacted soil.
Filling the bed
Before filling, the bottom of the structure is covered, which is nailed along the edges of each wall. will protect plants from rodents. The laid layer of geotextile will prevent weeds from growing in the soil.
Filling scheme
Step-by-step instructions include the following steps:
- Cover the geotextile with dry twigs, bark, large sawdust, shavings, and leaves.
- Lay out layers of compost and bird droppings.
- Cover the organic matter with grass, fallen leaves or bark.
- Contribute required amount mineral fertilizers.
- Lay fertile soil.
The thickness of the layers created is usually 10 cm, they are not mixed with each other. Each of them is well compacted and leveled. Creating a fertile layer involves the use of:
- tops;
- sawdust;
- peat;
- wood ash;
- green manure;
- rotted manure;
- bird droppings, etc.
The video shows how to make a high garden bed.
If the beds in a greenhouse are created with your own hands from a fertile soil mixture, this significantly increases the yield. To compact them, you need to water them several times with plenty of water.
If the composition of the soil is not fertile, then purchased soil, which is spilled with a large amount of water, is suitable. Then they wait two days, during which the layers can settle. The compacted fertile soil on top must be covered together with the frame with black agrofibre. This will warm it up to the greatest extent and prevent weeds from germinating.
IN Lately So-called “high beds” have become popular among amateur gardeners, as they are more convenient to work with than regular ones.
Gardeners who have just begun to develop their plots should be interested in the idea of a raised bed. An already landscaped area will not lose from such a bed, and the harvest from such beds will pleasantly surprise you.
How to make warm, high and comfortable beds on the site?
What are “raised beds”?
These are boxes without a bottom, 7-11 m long, 1.3 m wide, 0.7-0.8 m high, and 0.4-0.5 m deep below ground level. This height of the bed (table height) allows the elderly and physically weak people can carry out planting and caring for plants without much effort.
Digging the bed 40-50 cm below ground level is necessary in order to lay down walls through which rats, mice, and moles will not penetrate into the bed.
You can build a garden bed along the wall of the house, but not on the north side; in this case, its width should not exceed 80 cm (the length of an outstretched arm). If the eaves of the roof of the house are holding back rainwater, this garden bed option is no longer available.
Oval and even round beds are possible (Fig. 1,2). They are built from flexible wavy sheets, and are fastened inside with wire.
If possible, choose the direction of the bed from north to south. If the direction of the bed is from east to west, then the plants should be placed so that tall types of vegetable crops, such as peas, are located on the north side of the bed.
Building material for raised beds
A raised bed is a structure that should last for decades. This must be taken into account when making a construction decision. The most important elements of the building are the walls. What material should they be made of? More important than others are properties such as frost resistance, rot resistance, corrosion resistance and relative strength. Some amateur gardeners solve the problem by buying on occasion. cheap material, for example, what is left of a broken house, and most often destined for a landfill.
As they say, “everything on the farm comes in handy.” It can be wood (Photo.1), hollow blocks, porous or simply old brick(Photo. 2). And finally, the most suitable building material is sheets, the use of which for building beds saves working time.
These are, first of all, wavy sheets (Photo. 3) usually measuring 2x1 m, made from the very different materials(for us it could be slate). The advantage of sheets is their stability and strength, provided by “waves” that evenly distribute external load. Even the thinnest corrugated slabs are suitable for constructing the walls of a high bed.
Laying a high bed
Organic material for filling the beds is prepared in advance, several months before the planned construction. A pile of branches, twigs, and round timber gives the impression of a huge mass, but after chopping and compacting this pile turns into a modest heap. Hence the rule, confirmed by experience: to prepare twice as much material for stuffing as seems sufficient at first glance. And since the need for organic material for raised beds is very large, it is necessary to use waste that can become compost.
From wood material trunks, twigs and branches, waste construction timber, sawdust, and shavings are used to build the garden bed. Pieces of plywood are less suitable, as they contain chemical glue. But if you do use them, then only as a “bulk filling,” and their place is at the very bottom, at the bottom of the pit.
Suitable material is old newspapers. Newsprint, made from wood pulp, decays quickly and is readily eaten by earthworms. The same can be said about cardboard if there is no photo or color printing on it. As a filler, to increase the amount of arable land per 10 meter bed, 2 m 2 of clay or sand is required (Fig. 3).
Construction and filling of high beds
In the future, you can refuse the spirit level. To do this, you need to find two fixed points on the front wall, and hammer in two pegs on the opposite side to which you can attach a cord.
A new stage of work - filling the beds
It should start from the bottom, with the most voluminous material: tree trunks, boards, logs, stumps, piles of newspapers can be laid between them. The larger the material for packing, the deeper it must be laid.
Blocks and stumps, located lower than others and receiving less air, form a kind of “reserve” for soil microorganisms, thanks to which they remain active even in winter.
The clay filler is mixed with arable soil, and sand is buried in the middle layers of the bed, where it serves as an air-conducting material.
Then come the unchopped branches, which are trampled underfoot. They are covered with subsurface soil taken from the next section of the bed.
Then again crosswise a layer of branches, this time chopped.
This layer is covered with the remaining subsoil and then in the same order until the end of the bed, until another front wall is installed.
At this stage, it is already possible, without fear of ending up with your feet in the water, to water the loosened arable soil from a hose so that swimming occurs in places. And in the future, the bed will be moistened not only through watering from above, but also due to the capillary rise of moisture from below.
There is no need to worry about compaction of the bed from flooding, which is harmful to plants. This “care” is taken over by brushwood, branches and twigs. Thanks to their cross-shaped position, in an almost meter-thick layer, thousands of small depressions appear - chambers filled with air and so important for the functioning of the bed.
Now you can continue filling the bed: sticks the size of a hammer handle, finely chopped bushes and again a shovel of arable soil from a pile lying to the side, then newspapers, but now not in a whole pile, but unrolled and pre-moistened.
As the volume of filling increases, more and more arable land is required for filling. We are surprised to suddenly discover that our “creation” is even more insatiable than we could have imagined. Instead of soil, if you run out of it, you can pour sand and lay cobblestones.
When the filling level reaches 30 cm, counting from the top, begin stretching. A steel wire is threaded through two holes drilled through the convexities of the sheet on the opposite walls of the bed, both ends are connected and tightened with a screwdriver until (Fig. 4). until the wire loop is stretched, in this case it is necessary to catch in time the moment the tension of the opposite walls stops.
Benefits of a raised bed
Due to the fact that seasonal bacteria create an initial strong heating of the bed above (40°C), and the subsequent temperature is kept constant at (2°C) above the ambient temperature of the earth, vegetables grow faster than at flat bed. The increased temperature is explained by the fact that the overheating of the organic material of the bed occurs in some places slowly, in others faster, and not immediately, as in conventional plots.
- Blocks, stumps and other coarse material located at the bottom, at the lowest point of the packing, and poorly supplied with air, rot more slowly. And it is here that anaerobic microorganisms behave most actively - a constant source of heat, albeit moderate.
- The second reason for the slightly increased temperature of the bed is the insulating effect of air chambers created during packing.
- And thirdly, the increased temperature of the bed is the result of the dark color of the wavy slabs. Increased ground temperatures accelerate seed germination and vegetable ripening, unless prolonged unfavorable weather (cold, rain) negates these benefits.
A high bed creates optimal conditions for growing spinach, lettuce, green asparagus, strawberries, kohlrabi, Chinese cabbage, celery, tomatoes, leeks, carrots, mushrooms, tuber fennel and other crops (Fig. 6). You can, of course, grow flowers, but not those that are “too lazy” to bloom in rich, nutrient-rich soil.
If we assume that a high bed is a bed for 10 years, then we can count on a constant increase in the humus layer, savings in fertilizers and an almost complete abandonment of plant protection products.
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Proper arrangement of beds at the dacha is one of the most important conditions to get a rich harvest. Many novice gardeners believe that plants will be suitable for any growing conditions, as long as there is land and water. In fact, many crops require individual approach. Their growth and development is influenced by many factors: the illumination of the site, the composition of the soil and even the shape of the beds. Therefore, the arrangement of a garden in a country house must be properly planned in advance.
First of all, you need to decide exactly what crops you will plant on your site. And only then make the most suitable bed for each of them.
Fertile and beautiful beds in the countryside they give joy to both the eyes and the stomach. They can be of different shapes and heights. The main thing is, of course, the soil. In modern gardening there is two different ways cultivation of land:
- Traditional - constant regulation of soil conditions by humans, deep loosening and digging, excessive fertilization.
- Ecological - minimal human intervention in natural changes in soil conditions.
In the traditional way there are two significant disadvantages. Firstly, it requires great work. Endless weeding, digging, treatment with various chemicals - all this takes a lot of time and effort. Secondly, this method is traumatic for the soil, because it does not have time to fully recover between digging procedures. As a result, even with regular use of fertilizers, the harvest in such beds is much poorer than it could be.
The ecological approach is based primarily on the earth’s ability to self-heal, in contrast to the traditional one. To do this, she just needs to stay out of the way. Instead of deep digging, you can simply loosen superficially, and replace constant weeding with regular mulching. With this approach, the soil structure develops in the most natural way with the help of various insects and microorganisms. In such organic beds, which are also called smart, plants receive all the necessary substances without the use of special fertilizers and produce a rich harvest. Currently, it is the environmental approach that is most popular.
Smart beds for high yields
For creating smart beds DIY required just a little time and effort. This must be done in several stages.
You will be surprised by your past doubts about whether to make raised beds in your dacha... Your back will thank you - you will simply bend down slightly to care for the bed. Your knees will thank you - you can simply sit on the edge of the bed and tend to your garden. Your plants will thank you - there is no more competition from weeds or nearby fruit trees. Your land will be grateful to you - you do not trample it and ennoble it with humus. Your garden with raised beds can look beautiful, be comfortable and reward you with a bountiful harvest.
How to make raised beds with your own hands.
1. First we must mark out the space for the beds. The usual width of the bed is 1.2 m, the length can be any. Marking rectangles the right size on the ground with sand.
2. We assemble high beds. The raised bed has no bottom and consists of posts with grooves on all four sides and boards with corresponding grooves. You can buy ready-made fences for garden beds or make them yourself. It is better to use wood for fencing hardwood, because Conifers secrete resin, which can have an unnecessary effect on soil composition. We check the horizontal installation of the garden box with a level.
3. Extend the high beds. Because The design of our beds is modular; we can extend our bed on either side with another module.
4. How to protect a high bed from rodents. Even if you have not encountered moles and other underground garden pests in your summer cottage, it is better to take steps to protect your garden right now than to unsuccessfully fight these rodents later. We place a metal mesh at the bottom of each box so that it extends slightly over the edges of the fences.
5. How to protect the soil in a high bed from washing out into the main soil. To do this, we use regular packing cardboard in two layers so that it covers the entire bottom of our garden box. If there are not enough solid pieces, we use scraps of cardboard and staple them to the main piece so that the cardboard at the bottom of the box does not move when pouring soil.
6. The soil for high beds should be light, crumbly and “fluffy”. You can easily check its quality by poking your finger into the ground - if it sinks to the third joint, this is normal. To improve the soil composition, you can add peat or compost. We pour the soil into the garden box, check its horizontal level, and water it to compact it a little. During the season we will need to add a little soil.
7. Irrigation system for high beds. It is planned to fix along the contour of the raised beds garden hose with irrigation nozzles: we need 90 and 180 degree dividers.
8. Trellis for high beds. Because the soil in a high bed is loose, it will not be possible to install a trellis in it, so we fix the trellis from pvc pipes into the ground next to the garden box. We stretch nets onto the trellises to climbing plants- cucumbers and beans. For tomatoes we install light supports made of steel rod.
What you need to know when building a raised bed.
1. Try to protect high beds from strong winds and heat by creating partial shade with trellises of flowers or tall shrubs.
2. The long side of the bed should face south - this way the plants will be evenly illuminated, otherwise taller plants will shade others.
3. The planting density on a high bed is twice as high as on a regular one. This is how plants fight weeds and create a humid microclimate for the foliage.
4. High beds with sides will allow elderly people or people with back problems to easily care for their gardens.
5. A high bed is a warm bed. Such a bed warms up faster in the spring and if you make a mini greenhouse based on it, it will surprise you with an early and generous harvest.
6. Divide a long, high bed into square segments with cross braces to reduce soil pressure by side walls beds.
Fences for raised beds.
1. Most often, wooden fences are used for clear beds. There are a few points here - do not use used wood, especially sleepers, which may contain harmful chemicals. Do not treat fresh wood with protection products unless you are sure that they are completely environmentally safe.
2. Wattle fence as a fence for a high bed. Despite all its environmental friendliness, such a fence has three significant drawbacks: the soil in the bed dries quickly from the wind, proper thermal insulation of the bed is not provided, and soil can spill out through the cracks. Everything can be fixed - use a layer of double cardboard along the inner perimeter of the fence. It is environmentally friendly, the air gap between the sheets serves as thermal insulation, and the soil no longer spills out.
3. As a fence for a high bed, you can use a metal profile, including from old roof or a fence.
5. You can make fences for a high bed with your own hands from brick or concrete. This is a very good option, but you need to take into account that concrete will affect the acidity of the soil in the garden bed for 2-3 years.
6. The best fencing for raised beds is plastic. They do not release anything of their own into the soil, excellent thermal insulation, long term services and the ability to set any shape of the bed, in contrast to the standard rectangular beds with wooden fences.
7. Fences for high beds made from scrap materials. You can make the sides of the beds from bottles laid like bricks on concrete mortar.
Why are raised beds needed?
High beds allow you to increase the area for a vegetable garden because... awkward slopes or poor or clogged soil can be used. Raised beds provide an eco-friendly way to control weeds and soil erosion.
Such beds warm up faster and produce an earlier harvest. They allow you to more economically use moisture for irrigation.
Various types of raised beds.
In addition to the traditional raised bed with high sides, there are several other types of raised beds.
1. Circular high bed. It consists of a round frame in which there is a path to the center of the bed. This form of high bed is also called a “keyhole”.
Branches, roots, paper, and compost are placed at the bottom of the bed. There is a tunnel in the middle of the bed for fresh organic waste and water.
This bed design provides the necessary moisture and constant enrichment of the soil.
2. High bed without fences. When constructing such a bed, the first layer of tree trunks (not conifers), branches, roots, and snags are placed in the ground at a shallow depth; the second layer is this removed turf from the place where you are making the bed, laid with grass down; the third layer is 20-30 cm of basic soil mixed with humus.
To irrigate raised raised beds, an irrigation irrigation system is used, when water comes from a ditch between the beds - a good option for vegetable gardens that are flooded in the spring, or you can use drip irrigation, when water enters the garden bed from mini terraces.
The paths between the beds are covered with straw or large sawdust. Never step on the soil in a high bed - this will compact it and make it more difficult for the plants to receive moisture and nutrients.
Raised beds of this type can be used not only for a vegetable garden, but also for growing shrubs and fruit trees if you have problem soil for them in your summer cottage. The service life of such a bed (until the first layer of wood with trunks completely rots) is 20-25 years - this period is enough for any fruit tree.
Do not spare space for paths between high beds - this way you can always go there with a garden wheelbarrow both for harvesting and with a new portion of humus. Spare your back - use a wheelbarrow.
If your raised beds are located next to fruit trees, perhaps, before setting up the beds, you will need to install a root barrier - dig a trench, cut off the root on the approach to the beds, install a metal sheet into a trench, which will prevent the root from growing in this direction and cover the trench with soil.
Learn more about raised beds through your own experience. This topic contains many interesting finds, experiments and new discoveries for every gardener.
And we have prepared for you a video with 100 inspiring examples of using raised beds in the country.
Benefits of a raised bed
This simple construction will greatly simplify your country life:
- Ideal for a small area (as opposed to a garden in rows).
- Suitable for rocky and infertile soil.
- Compared to a regular garden it brings more harvest with the same area. This is due to better drainage and deep rooting of plants.
- Extends the growing season, since in cold regions with the arrival of spring you can begin cultivating the soil earlier.
- Simplifies the gardening process. For example, dense planting creates shade (which acts as mulch) to prevent weed growth.
Materials for building a raised bed
Many gardeners are concerned about the safety of framing wood. First, remember that pressed wood impregnated with a CCA family antiseptic cannot be used. It releases arsenic. There are several options to increase the shelf life of wood:
- Today, when mass-producing compressed wood, a mixture is added chemical substances, protecting it from rotting due to moisture. Despite the fact that this type of wood is certified and safe for plants, some still doubt this and prefer to use alternative environmentally friendly materials.
- More expensive wood species, such as cedar, contain natural oils, which prevent rotting, increasing the durability of the material. They are expensive, but they will last much longer.
- The thicker the board, the longer it will not rot. For example, a two-inch larch wall can last for 10 years without any maintenance.
You can also use concrete blocks or brick, but keep in mind that concrete increases the acidity of the soil over time.
Some people even use railroad ties, but I don’t recommend this. If old samples can still be suitable, then when making new ones they use treatment with creosote, which is toxic.
Planning and dimensions
Having decided on the type of wood, you can proceed to planning the future construction:
- Choose a location that will receive sufficient sunlight.
- The standard width of the bed is 120 cm. This size provides unobstructed access to the plants without having to step inside;
- The length of the structure is not important. Sections are often made 120x240 cm or 120x360 cm.
- The depth can vary, but should be at least 15 cm. The roots require between 15 and 30 cm, so the ideal depth is 30 cm.
- Before installing the bed, check that the soil is not compacted. To do this, loosen it with a garden fork to a depth of 15–20 cm. For improved rooting, some gardeners remove upper layer soil (to the depth of a shovel), then dig out the next layer and mix it with the first.
Building a Raised Bed
To support the structure, install wooden poles in each corner (and every 60 cm for long beds). I recommend doing this with inside– this way the supports will be less noticeable.
The support pillars must be dug in about 60%, leaving the upper part above the ground. Make sure they are all the same height, otherwise the sections will end up uneven.
Then install the bottom row of boards and make sure they are all level. After that, nail the rest. It is best to use galvanized nails or screws.
In order to comfortably move between the beds, you should leave a passage of 60-70 cm.
Soil to fill
Fill the sections with a mixture of topsoil, compost and other organic materials (such as manure) to provide the plants with a nutrient-rich environment.
Please note that the soil in such beds dries out faster, which is useful in spring and autumn. However, in the summer, cover the top layer of soil with straw, mulch or hay.
Frequent watering is necessary for any plants located in an elevated position. This is especially true for the early stages of their growth in raised beds.
What plants can be planted
Almost any crop can be grown in raised beds. Vegetables are the most common, but fruits, bushes and even trees have also been successfully planted. Just remember that some plants will grow beyond their section and this should be taken into account when planning the layout.
Some general recommendations will allow you to maximize the benefits of your garden.
Continuity. Timely replacement of seedlings will ensure continuous production. When one crop is harvested, have ready-made seedlings for replanting in place of the old ones. For best result Use fast-ripening varieties to get maximum fruit in one season.
Dense planting. Plant different crops closely together to save space. Plants should be at such a distance that their leaves touch each other, shielding the ground from the sun's rays. This will prevent weeds from appearing and retain moisture, eliminating the need to frequently water, weed and mulch the soil. Since plants will crowd each other as they ripen, collect early ripening ones first, leaving space for others to fully develop. For example, combine lettuce with seasonal vegetables such as tomatoes, broccoli or peppers.
Different cultures are allies, not rivals. Plants have different root lengths. Planting them nearby is the key to better use the entire volume of the bed. For example, you can combine beans that have short roots and beets that have deep roots. This way you will eliminate competition between cultures. It is also beneficial to plant vegetables that require a lot of nutrients (cabbage, cucumbers) together with beans or carrots that are unpretentious in this regard.
Help me grow. If there is a fence on the north side of the bed, then the tallest plants planted there will not cast a shadow on the others. Don't let climbing varieties grow chaotically, taking up valuable space. Help them grow in the right direction:
- Cucumbers willingly climb up the lattice fence. As a result, hanging fruits are very convenient to collect.
- Tomatoes ripen faster and produce more tomatoes if they are above the ground, tied to a support.
- Peas and beans always reach for the sky. Place a tripod or wire mesh and they will begin to wrap around it.
Some heavy plants, such as melons and watermelons, will need help to guide their growth. Tie their shoots to a support to force them to move in the right direction. Support large fruits with straps so that they do not come off and fall prematurely.
Nutritious soil, enough sun and good drainage are everything. the necessary conditions for the successful development of a vegetable garden. Create your own garden, which will always delight you and your friends with fresh vegetables and fruits for the table.
