For what reason can smoke occur in a perforator. Do-it-yourself repair of a perforator. Do-it-yourself puncher repair. How to repair a barrel puncher

Due to the ingress of dust, dirt and moisture, the internal lubricant becomes hard over time and does not fulfill its intended purpose. The puncher starts to work with extraneous noise. When starting to repair the rotary hammer, be sure to read the attached instructions for disassembling, lubricating, assembling the Makita 2450, 2470 rotary hammer units. The scheme of the Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer will help to correctly disassemble the faulty units and find defective parts. We will also tell you how to disassemble the Makita 2450 rotary hammer.

Disassembly of the Makita 2470 perforator begins with the removal of the mode switch handle.

The procedure for disassembling the punch

Lay the punch down on a clean surface.

When disassembling the mechanical part of the Makita 2450 or Makita 2470 rotary hammer, you should always remove the mode switch knob.

At the beginning of work, the handle is set to the “Impact” mode (the extreme right position clockwise).
On the handle with a screwdriver, the latch is tucked and the latch is removed.

After removing the latch, the handle is transferred to the leftmost position, to the “Drilling” mode.

The handle clamped with fingers is removed from the grooves of the body.

Video instructions for disassembling the handle of the Makita 2450 puncher mode switch

Video: How to put \ How to remove the mode switch on the Makita HR 2450 puncher

How to set the mode knob

To install the mode switch in the case, you need to perform some actions:
insert the switch into the “drilling” position into the seat until it clicks;
move the switch counterclockwise to the "blow" position;
turn the switch with a click counterclockwise to the “drilling” position;
insert the spring and the red button;
insert the overlay from above until it locks into place.
The mode switch is assembled.

At the second stage, you should disassemble the quick-release cartridge and repair the punch cartridge with your own hands. By the way, the cartridge requires disassembly only for Makita 2470 models. The device of the cartridge is quite simple, and any person who has a little bit of locksmith skills can handle its repair.

The procedure for disassembling the Makita perforator cartridge

Repair of the punch chuck begins with the installation of the punch vertically on back cover corps. Correctly perform disassembly work will help the diagram of the hrmakit puncher.
Do I need to replace the cartridge of the Makita 2470 perforator? The answer can be obtained only after the complete disassembly of the cartridge with your own hands.
Using a screwdriver or puller, the anther is removed, the cartridge is released from the retaining ring, clutch cover, metal ring 20 pos.4. Next, you need to carefully remove the ball poz.20, remove the guide washer poz.5 and the conical spring poz.6 supporting it. The cartridge is disassembled.

The diagram below shows the device of the punch chuck.

The main malfunctions of the makita 2450 puncher, causing defects in operation chuck, are:

wear of the protective rubber boot pos.1;
relaxation of the retaining ring pos.2 or its partial wear;
ball wear pos.20;
loss of elasticity of the conical spring pos.6 or its stretching.

Repairing a hammer drill chuck is not a complicated procedure and is usually easily done by anyone who can hold a screwdriver in their hands.

If replacing a rubber boot, retaining ring, conical spring is not difficult, then replacing a new ball requires attention. New ball should have a diameter of 7mm ±1 µm.
As lubricants, it is recommended to use a special lubricant designed for the Makita rotary hammer.
The grease has an index Makita P-08361, Makita 183477-5 SDS-PLUS 30g for the gearbox. For drill shanks, it is recommended to use Makita 196804-7 grease.

When assembling the cartridge, install the conical spring with the narrow side towards the perforator.
Do not forget, do-it-yourself repair of a perforator cartridge requires care from the collector.

How to assemble a quick-release chuck

Assembly is done on a clean surface. Parts are pre-washed, dried and lubricated with a thin layer of the recommended lubricant.

The gearbox shaft is lubricated with Makita 183477-5 SDS-PLUS grease. All incoming parts of the cartridge are assembled on the shaft in a certain sequence.

After installing the conical spring pos.6, put on the guide washer pos.5 and fix it with a ball pos.20, inserting it into the groove of the gearbox shaft.

It remains to put on the ring pos.4, the clutch cover pos.3, fix the parts with a retaining ring pos.2. On last step insert the protective tip pos.1 into the end of the cartridge
the repair of the Makita 2450 perforator cartridge is completed. It remains to check its quality by inserting a drill into the cartridge. At correct assembly the cartridge keeps the drill from spontaneous falling out.
The cartridge is assembled.

We disassemble the gearbox

To get to the mechanical part, you will need to remove the plastic case.

The procedure for disassembling the mechanical part of the Makita punch
First, the protective plastic is removed. The case is removed after you unscrew the four screws securing the case from the end.
By pressing on the end of the shaft, you will squeeze the gearbox out of the housing.

After removing the housing, it is necessary to separate the rotor from the gearbox. A gearbox is a common mechanical part.
The rotor is separated from the mechanical part (reducer) simply.
Clamp the gearbox with your right hand, clamp the rotor with your left.
Swinging, pull both parts in opposite directions. The rotor is held in the gearbox due to the friction of the helical gears.
The main malfunctions of the Makita puncher occur in the mechanical part of the tool.

The most characteristic fault for the mechanical part, failure of the percussion mechanism.

Disassembly of the impact mechanism
The impact mechanism is assembled on the inner housing and consists of a gear shaft and an intermediate shaft.
The rotational movement is transmitted through helical gears to the intermediate shaft.

The gearbox shaft is a hollow shaft in which the cylinder moves freely.

A small spur gear mounted on the intermediate shaft transmits rotation to the large spur gear of the gearbox shaft, in which the impact mechanism is mounted.
And the translational movements on the shaft of the impact mechanism reducer are simultaneously transmitted due to the transmission from the intermediate shaft rolling bearing to the cylinder moving in the reducer shaft.

We proceed to the dismantling of the intermediate shaft.

Dismantling the intermediate shaft

On the shaft poz.40 mounted helical gear poz.42, which is transmitted rotation from the rotor gear, rolling bearing 608zz poz.41, which transmits translational motion to the hinge poz.34 piston poz.32.
On the other side of the shaft, a clutch poz.39 is installed, a spur gear 10 poz.80, a compression spring poz.38, a retaining ring S-7 poz.37, a bearing 606zz poz.36
Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the rolling bearings.
Imported bearings are installed in the perforator. Installation of domestic bearings is allowed.
Bearing 606zz can be replaced by 80016, bearing 609zz can be replaced by 80019.

Let's move on to disassembling the shaft of the shock mechanic

Dismantling the shaft of the percussion mechanism

Dismantling the barrel of the Makita 2470 perforator is a simple process if you use the Makita perforator device diagram.
The shaft is a trunk poz.21, which is assembled percussion mechanism.
A gear poz.19 is attached to the barrel, which is pressed down by a spring poz.18, through a washer poz.17 and fixed with a retaining ring poz.16.

In the barrel moves the cylinder poz.32, acting on the striker poz24. WITH reverse side the striker is fixed with a metal ring poz.27, which transmits the blow to the drill.
When do you need to replace the barrel of a perforator?

Repair of the hammer drill is difficult due to the layout of the units with mechanical interface and power unit. All parts have micron tolerances and a verified sequence of actions. Therefore, it is necessary to provide proper care and technical operation tool in accordance with the requirements of the instructions, thereby extending the overhaul period.

Perforator device

There are few users of the tool who have studied not only the order of pressing the levers and buttons, but also understand what happens in the mechanism as a result of the received command. Without knowing the interaction of nodes, it is impossible to perform even the most minor repairs perforator.

There are signs of problems that relate to the power section, and sometimes mechanical wear or breakage of parts occurs.

Electrical circuits and equipment are concentrated in one part and are presented in a section in the photo.

Symptoms of a malfunction that require the replacement of parts or repair of the perforator in the power section may be the following:

when the device is turned on, the mains fuses are activated;
the device does not turn on;
when working, smoke with a pungent odor appears;
during operation, the device sparks;
turnover is not regulated.

You can find the reason why the device does not turn on using a tester. You need to look for a gap in the scheme, from simple to complex. Check connections, clean contacts. The most complex and expensive part that failed may be the anchor of the perforator. This is the heart of the engine, made up of copper coils interconnected and fastened with lamellae. In the event of an insulation breakdown between the wires, a short circuit occurs anywhere, and the entire collector needs to be rewound or replaced.

It is possible to determine that the armature on the puncher is faulty visually by the burnt winding, traces of smoke from the lamellas, or by testing for a short circuit. You can eliminate damage by timely care, cleaning parts from dust, which is the root cause of all troubles. If the spark comes from the engine, the anchor must be cleaned with an alcohol swab or a regular school rubber to remove graphite deposits from the manifold.

The second important part of the engine are carbon or graphite brushes. It is through the moving contacts that electric charge on the core, creating an induced EMF torque. The hammer brushes are the contact that connects the rotating collector to the power source.

The two elements always work in pairs. A carbon or graphite plate is pressed against the collector. As a result of constant friction against the rotating collector, the plates wear out and the contact is broken. A sign of a malfunction will be sparking in the collector, perhaps the engine does not develop speed. Regardless of the state of wear, both plates are changed at the same time. Most tool models have brush wear indicators that warn the user in advance.

The speed of the perforator may not be regulated due to a malfunction of the UUD, then it needs to be replaced, the device cannot be repaired.

Mechanical malfunctions and their elimination

To find a particular malfunction, you need to get to the desired node. Any of the successively removed parts is carefully inspected for the presence of:

cracks;
chips;
burrs or scratches.

In most models, they are disassembled into two halves, but at the same time, each of the perforators has its own characteristics. How to repair a perforator with your own hands, watch the video:

A sign of a breakdown can be:

refusal to perform a function;
extraneous sounds inside the mechanism and excessive heating of the case;
modes do not switch;
lubricant flows.

Each of the signs may be the result of a breakdown of any of the parts that are removed in the sequence indicated in the diagram. Assemble the instrument in reverse order. Spare parts should be purchased according to the specification in the service manual.

One of the causes of mechanical breakdowns often becomes insufficient Maintenance unit operating under harsh conditions. Preventive measures are not difficult, and the life of the instrument will be significantly extended. According to the rules of operation it is necessary:

every six months to renew the gearbox lubrication;
after 6 months, inspect and clean the brushes and the adjacent part of the collector;
at the end of the working day, clean the puncher with a vacuum cleaner;
remember to apply grease to the mortising tool shanks to seal against dust and prevent socket wear.

Do not apply physical effort when working with a puncher, the striker and seals wear out, the operator becomes tired and irritated.

Goals and objectives of tool lubrication

Often the cause of tool breakage is the absence, lack or inappropriate lubrication. Abrasive wear is reduced if all gaps and cavities are covered with a layer of antifreeze, and cleaning is carried out in a timely manner.

The type of gear lubricant is different from the composition for shanks. Each manufacturer recommends using a specific punch lubricant specified in the instructions at the right frequency.

Available general recommendations relating to all perforators. Reducers must receive oil of a liquid consistency, poured into a special hole. For all units, without a doubt, you can use Bosh and Makita grease, designed for gearboxes, which is what they do in service centers.

Incorrectly selected or overfilled grease can lead to overheating of the gearbox.

To lubricate the shanks of the working equipment before inserting into the chuck, a grease of a thicker consistency, from the same manufacturers, is used. In this case, the shank attachment point in the chuck and the striker are protected from wear. Filling all gaps with grease protects the assembly from dust ingress.

It is necessary to lubricate the places indicated in the instructions. And certainly, it is harmful to add grease to the clutch. In the event of a sudden detection of a lack of lubrication in the gearbox, you can use the domestic composition, Litol-24 Lux, but lubrication is not suitable for cordless rotary hammers, even temporarily.

The device of the working unit and the equipment of the perforator

The puncher has a cartridge in which working tools are fixed. For professional heavy rock drills, SDS max chucks only accept 18 mm diameter shanks with five longitudinal grooves, which are installed in the chuck socket of the appropriate profile.

The light and medium tool is equipped with an SDS plus chuck, which allows the use of a mortising tool with four longitudinal grooves and a cross section of 10 mm. The punch chuck is designed so that it can only accept tools intended for it. If you insert the wrong tooling, it will not fit into the socket, or it will be installed sideways. When you try to work, the mount will collapse. But drills do not have a fluted shank. An attachment cartridge is used, which is installed in the SDS profile. But at the same time, the tool lengthens. The drill chuck for a drill can be a quick-clamping or key. The adapter is used only with the SDS+ chuck, since the more powerful hammer drill does not have the function of drilling without impact.

The perforator is a multifunctional tool. It can use modes:

shock;
percussion with drilling;
drilling, if there is a special cartridge.

To work in shock mode, there are many devices used to facilitate manual labor.

Impact with drilling is performed only with the use of nozzles for a perforator:

hollow crown;
shredding spatula.

They call a tool that has a shank of a special profile, a working part, which is a screw and a tip made of special steel with a centering point. The destruction of the material occurs not by scraping, but by chipping off the rock. At the same time, a twisting impact occurs, as a result of which the chipped pieces are removed along the helical surface of the working part.

Drills for a perforator are installed when working in shockless mode. With this tool, a lightweight hammer drill can work like conventional drill on wood. If necessary, the device can be used to tighten fasteners, if the reverse function is provided.

A hollow crown is needed for making through passages for cable wiring or for creating recesses in the body of the structure for installing devices. The crown creates an annular passage, leaving a column in the middle. Since the nozzle has a special toothed profile, metal fittings in concrete will render cutters unusable.

Recesses in the wall can be made with a special spatula for chasing, but the holes will not look as neat as those made with a crown.

Bucharda has long been considered a sculptor's tool. Craftsmen used forging and cross bush hammers. This percussion instrument, resembling a hammer, the striker of which is notched. With a forging bush hammer, the sculptor cut off everything superfluous from the stone block, and the cross gave shape to the stone.

When using one shock mode, use with nozzles:

spatula or flat chisel;
peak;
channel chisel;
bush hammer.

The blade for the perforator is intended for leveling the surface of hard material. With this equipment, you can remove tiles from the walls, remove irregularities from the surface of hardened concrete. Correction of some flaws when installing openings in multi-storey buildings is carried out using this tool. A chisel for a hammer drill used in concrete can have different widths, depending on the tasks being performed. Fits all perforators. Specially designed, narrowly targeted nozzles are also used - a chisel, a tamping plate or a mortar cutter.

When dismantling building structures breaking force is required. For the destruction of a wall or partition, concentrated at one point, the impact of the peak is provided by the power of the perforator.

Bucharda is a cast head, a very strong sledgehammer. The teeth on the couchard are carbide, withstand heavy shock loads. Remove from the wall, beat off a layer of concrete, knock off a layer of rust from metal - this is the scope of bush hammer. If the walls are treated with this tool before plastering, reinforcement will not be required. It is impossible to use a bush hammer for a rotary hammer in the tool scrolling mode. The inevitable consequence will be jamming.

Rules to follow

During operation, the rotary hammer heats up quickly. To keep the tool working for a long time, it is necessary to take a break of at least 10 minutes after 20-30 minutes of work.

In the process of work, when scrolling the tool idly, it is necessary to remove crumbs and dust, clean the punched hole in order to facilitate the work of the tool. When drilling large holes, they are first drilled with a thin drill, then with a medium one, making a hole in three steps. Through long passages must be drilled first with short nozzles, gradually replacing them with longer ones.

After work, it is necessary to put the punch and used nozzles in order. Tools must be free of dust and placed dry in a container.

Video about self-repair of a puncher

In the event of a breakdown of a tool that helps in construction, not everyone wants to go to the workshop, for lack of money, time, or because repairs can result in the cost of a new thing. Some prefer to do everything on their own. If at the most crucial moment the puncher stopped working, in order to identify the cause and eliminate it, the tool should be disassembled.

Even when the hammer drill is in good condition, it still needs preventive cleaning and replacement of worn out elements, which means that it must be periodically disassembled. The method of disassembling a tool from different manufacturers is approximately the same, but may differ in some nuances. One of the most famous brands are Interskol, Energomash, Sturm, Bosch.

How to disassemble a Sturm rotary hammer or similar models? The sequence of actions is as follows:

First of all, you need to establish whether the cause of the breakdown lies on the surface. At the perforator, the plastic anther located on the cartridge very often becomes unusable. Because of this, the stoppers are lost. To prevent this problem, long drills should be used when working.
If there are no external defects, then it is necessary to disassemble the tool. You need to start from the top knot: first, the rubber tip is removed, then comes lock washer, after - the head and the spring. At the end of the described steps, remove the ball.
When disassembling a tool, you need to be extremely careful, remember where which parts were extracted from and in what sequence. You should also put them in a place where they will not roll anywhere and will not be lost, otherwise it will not work to bring the puncher back to life. Now carefully spread the housing and gearbox apart until a gap of 30-50 mm appears between them.
Set the switch to the "drilling impact" mode and remove it.
Remove the housing from the gearbox.

The disassembled puncher looks like this:

Perforator reducer

This element of the perforator device serves to transmit rotation from the electric motor to the cartridge. Thanks to this, the percussion mechanism comes into working condition.

The design of the gearbox includes a set of gears various shapes- cylindrical, conical, worm. In addition to them, this unit is equipped with an electronic device that regulates the number of revolutions and the frequency of impacts, and needs periodic inspection, lubrication and replacement of worn parts.

Before disassembling the rotary hammer gearbox, you must first disassemble the cartridge. This will be discussed below. Next, disconnect the lever that switches modes, while helping yourself with a flat screwdriver.

Having penetrated the gearbox, carefully inspect such details as:

gears, while paying close attention to the teeth;
striker;
piston.

If there is wear on any element, then it should be replaced with a new one. If not, then you just need to do a thorough cleaning with gasoline or mineral spirits.

How to disassemble a hammer drill

To begin with, the cartridge must be removed. Before that, you need to determine its design. Types of cartridges:

1. Cam - the drill is inserted and secured with a special key.

2. Collet - no key is required to change the drill, just turn the chuck.

3. Keyless:

single-sleeve;
two-sleeve.

Cartridges on different perforators are fixed in different ways - sometimes with a screw rod, sometimes with a spindle. In some cases, they can be removed easily, and in some cases, you have to use additional tools and make efforts. The withdrawal process looks like this:

loosen the fixation by gently tapping on the screw head;
unscrew it with a screwdriver;
clamp the chuck in a vise and turn the spindle.

As for the disassembly method, it can be different for tools from different companies. Consider below how to disassemble a bosch puncher, or rather, its cartridge.

Sequencing:

Move the plastic part aside and remove the rubber seal.
Remove the retaining ring by helping yourself with a screwdriver.
Unscrew the fixing washer.
After removing the puck, another ring comes into view. You can remove it by prying it with a screwdriver and turning it.
Followed by Collet clamp, which includes a spring, ball, washer. First of all, remove the ball, then the rest of the parts.

The cartridge, as well as the gearbox, is disassembled not only for repair, but also for routine inspection and lubrication. After necessary actions will be implemented, you need to carefully assemble all the nodes using the instructions above, only in the direction from the last point to the first.

Why do perforators break?

The design of the perforator, like any other tool, includes mechanical and electrical parts. To the most common electrical problems to be self-elimination, include the following:

breakage of the start button;
wear of graphite brushes.

To eliminate engine malfunctions, such as armature breaks, winding breaks, etc., special knowledge and skills are required, which not everyone has.

If the malfunction arose due to a broken button or worn brushes, then it will not be difficult to fix it. Sometimes these parts even come with the tool. If not, you can find them both on the market and in specialized stores. It is very important to remember how the contacts were located in the factory assembly. To be safer, before disassembling the Interskol puncher completely, or rather, extracting parts from it, taking a picture of how everything was originally.

The harbingers of tool breakages can be extraneous sounds, a large number of sparks inside the case, the smell of burnt plastic. When they appear, it is necessary to immediately check the hammer drill for worn parts, because if you continue to operate it further, the engine may break down, and its repair will be much more difficult and costly.

If there are no breakdowns and everything is in order, the owner of the tool should still know how to disassemble the Energomash puncher. The fact is that malfunctions can create dust, dirt, solid particles that clog the case from the inside and interfere with the movement of moving parts. All this debris should first be cleaned with a dry brush, and then wipe the inside with a rag moistened with mineral spirits to remove residues.

How to disassemble a hammer drill, video:

For drilling holes in various materials, breaking walls, drilling rocks and roads designed rock drill. The tool is used under heavy loads and eventually malfunctions. You can replace a failed puncher with an inexpensive Chinese model. But if you have a branded instrument, then it is a pity to throw it away. In order not to give half the cost of the puncher for troubleshooting, you can do it yourself. No repair is complete without studying the structure of the tool and the procedure for disassembling it.

Types of punchers

Perforators have several classifications. This is due to the different areas of application of the tool.

The number of modes can be from one to three:

drilling. The puncher works in the mode of a drill;

impact drilling. You can make holes in brick and concrete;

jackhammer, that is, a blow without drilling.

Hammer drive types:

Mass classification:

lungs. 2–4 kg. Power 400–700 W. Used in everyday life;

medium. About 5 kg. Power 700–1200 W. Professional;

heavy. Over 5 kg. Over 1200 W. In construction.

Types of cartridges used in rotary hammers:

SDS+ is installed on light and medium rock drills for work with drills up to 20 mm;

SDS max is used for drills over 20 mm, so they are installed on heavy rock drills with high power.

Classification by engine location:

Perforator device

Regardless of the functions and designs, rotary hammers have similar basic elements.

The device is a simple puncher with a network drive

Network cord.

Power button.

Engine.

Reducer.

The barrel puncher has the same main components.

Barrel puncher device with network drive

The impact mechanism of the perforator can be made in two versions:

The oscillating bearing is also called drunk. This mechanism is used in light and medium perforators.

Impact mechanism with drunken bearing

The crank mechanism is used in heavy rotary hammers.

Crank-and-rod percussion mechanism

How to disassemble a hammer drill

Disassemble the hammer drill sequentially. Look carefully at all the details. Even if you are looking for a problem in one node, you can find damaged parts in other nodes. When disassembling the tool, clean the case from dust and dirty grease.

How to disassemble the cartridge and remove the stuck tooling

Start by disassembling the cartridge so that it does not interfere with the removal of the gearbox housing.

If a drill or other equipment is not pulled out of the cartridge, there are two options for solving this problem:

clamp the tool in a vise. Slightly shaking the punch, pull it towards you;
clamp the rotary hammer in a vise through the rubber pads so as not to damage the plastic housing. Clamp the end of the snap with a gas wrench. Tap with a hammer on the wrench in the direction of the tooling axis.

The second option is used in last resort. If after several blows the drill or chisel cannot be pulled out, stop. You may damage the punch. Disassemble the chuck and gearbox. Try to knock out the snap with a punch. After such a procedure, most likely, a replacement of the raster sleeve will be required. To avoid such a problem in the future, lubricate the end of the snap.

How to remove a stuck drill from a drill chuck

How to remove the mode switch

In some models of rotary hammers, the switch is removed by turning it to the extreme right position, in others - to the extreme left. Consider the extreme right position.

Analysis of the electrical part of the puncher

Analysis of the mechanical part of the perforator

Remove the plastic gear housing. You will see an aluminum body with a screwed bearing inserted into it, an intermediate shaft, a raster bushing.
Thoroughly clean the plastic housing of the gearbox, because pieces from the collapsed bearing remain in it. Take a magnet and go through all the holes to remove all the balls and metal fragments. Clean out the grease completely. Pieces of the plastic separator may remain in it.
Remove the intermediate shaft from the drunken bearing.
To dismantle the helical gear, remove the snap ring and bearing with a special puller.
To dismantle the spur gear, remove the circlip and spring at the other end of the shaft.
Remove the sleeve from the sleeve.
Remove the sleeve from aluminum case.
There is a striker inside the sleeve. It is pulled out with a bent rigid wire.

How to assemble a perforator

Assembly is carried out in blocks. First, collect small parts into blocks, and then connect them.

Insert a bearing with a promshaft and a sleeve into the aluminum gearbox housing.
Put a rubber band on the body. It prevents leakage of lubricant.
Connect the grid sleeve to the sleeve.
Lubricate the drunken bearing and gears liberally on the outside.
Put the plastic gearbox housing on the assembled unit.
Insert the rotor into the gearbox.
Install the stator and air intake into the electrical housing. Connect the two halves of the punch body.
Insert a screwdriver into the hole in the raster sleeve and twist. It should rotate easily. Tighten the housing bolts.
Put the brushes in place.
Insert the button and all the wires into the grooves. Make sure nothing is in the way and put on the back cover. Screw it on.
Before installing the switch button with a screwdriver, move the switch bracket in the punch body. So that the pin that is on the switch gets between the two metal guides of the bracket.
Place the mode switch just below the impact, push it down and turn it up until it clicks.
Assemble the cartridge in reverse order.

How to assemble a perforator

Punch Diagnostics

Take the multimeter, put it in the dialing mode and start testing with the power cord.

Connect one probe to the end of the plug, the other to the contacts on the other end of the wire. When connected to one of the contacts, there should be an audible signal. Do the same with the other end of the fork.
Check the power button on the contacts with the power cord and with the stator. Press the button trigger.
Check reverse contacts.
Connect the probes to the brushes to check the contact through the armature.
Connect the probes to the stator wires and ring them.
If the contacts on the stator or brushes do not ring, and the buttons and power cord are working, proceed to the diagnostics of the collector and motor windings.

Diagnostics of wires and buttons of a puncher with a multimeter

At the anchor, first inspect the collector and winding. If the wiring is melted, the burnt insulating varnish will leave black marks or a peculiar smell. You can see bent and crumpled coils or conductive particles, such as solder residue. These particles cause a short circuit between the turns. Manifold damage: Raised, worn or burnt plates.

Run diagnostics with a multimeter:

set the resistance to 200 ohms. Connect the probes of the device to two adjacent collector plates. If the resistance is the same between all adjacent plates, then the winding is working. If the resistance is less than 1 ohm and very close to zero, there is a short circuit between the turns. If the resistance is two or more times higher than the average, then there is a break in the turns of the winding. Sometimes, during a break, the resistance is so high that the device goes off scale. On an analog multimeter, the arrow will go all the way to the right. And on digital it will not show anything;

mass breakdown determination. Set the maximum resistance on the scale of the device. Depending on the tester, it can be from 2 MΩ to 200 MΩ. Connect one probe to the shaft, and the other to each plate in turn. In the absence of faults, the resistance should be zero;

The anchor can be saved if the balance is not disturbed. If during the operation of the device an intermittent hum is heard and there is a strong vibration, then this is a violation of the balance. This anchor needs to be replaced. And you can repair the winding and collector. Small short circuits are eliminated. If a significant part of the winding is damaged, it can be rewound. Worn and badly damaged lamellas should be machined, extended or soldered. In addition, you should not undertake anchor repair if you are unsure of your capabilities. It is better to replace it or take it to the repair shop.

Checking the performance of the stator with a multimeter:

set the resistance mode to 200 ohms. Connect the probes of the device to the ends of one winding. One means an open, and zero means a short circuit between the turns. If it shows the presence of a resistance of more than 1.5 ohms, then check the second winding. Both windings should have approximately the same resistance;
check the absence of breakdown to ground, that is, the short circuit of the winding with the metal case of the stator. Set your multimeter to maximum resistance. Connect one probe to the end of the winding, the other probe to the metal case of the stator. The unit indicates the absence of a breakdown.

Malfunctions and their causes

Frequent malfunctions of the perforator:

does not turn on. Check the electrical circuit;
perforator does not hit. Breakage in the impact mechanism;
the tool does not turn, does not drill. Causes: armature bearings, armature gear, gearbox;
the drill flies out, does not hold. Malfunction of the cartridge or raster sleeve;
sparking in the electrical housing. Causes: violation of the insulation of the armature winding, wear of the brushes, collector, clogging of the brush holders;
sparking in the power button area. Faulty button contacts or wires;
the drill gets hot. The reason is worn brushes, short circuit of the winding turns, poor lubrication of the gearbox;
puncher does not hold a cartridge. Snap ring or locking washer broken.

DIY repair

When disassembling the assembly, carefully inspect the parts for cracks and chips.

Replacing the power button

Before replacing, mark the wiring and button contacts so as not to confuse the connection order.

To replace the button, just unscrew the screws of the contacts. But there may be buttons without screws. Here, next to the contacts, there are holes into which a needle or a thin awl is inserted. Poke into the hole, push in and pull out the wire. Do not pull on the wire, you may damage the button.
Wires must be stripped and tinned.
Take an old button and buy a similar one.
On the new button, insert the awl into the hole, press lightly and insert the wire. It will automatically be clamped by contacts.

Replacing a button with an awl

Brushes should be checked periodically. If one is worn by 40%, change both. Also, clean the brush holders.

Replacement and connection of the stator

Remove the stator from the electrical housing. Put a new one in its place.
Screw in the mounting bolts.
Install the air intake.
Proceed to connect the windings. Connect the two ends of different windings to each other and connect to the nearest brush. Connect the other two connected ends to the start button. Connect the wire from the second brush to the button as well.

Bearing replacement

The drill has several bearings. You will need a puller to remove them. In some cases, it is necessary to remove the retaining ring. If there is no puller, they hang the shaft with the bearing and knock it out with a piece of wood. The bearing is seated using a fitting made of a polypropylene tube by tapping on it with a hammer.

Cartridge replacement

Cartridges in rotary hammers are very easy to change. Remove the rubber boot, retaining ring, plastic boot, washer that presses the balls, fixing plates, spring. IN different models the number of rings and plates is different. Replace them with a new set.

Drunk Bearing Repair

Prepare a flathead screwdriver, a clean rag, and the gear lubricant recommended in the manual.

Repair of raster bushing and impact bolt

To disassemble the raster sleeve, you need to compress the spring, remove the retaining ring and gear.

Raster sleeve assembly and without gear

The impact bolt is repaired by replacing parts or replaced completely if it has fallen apart.

Sleeve replacement

The sleeve wears out less often than the raster sleeve, but with frequent overheating of the tool, it also fails. Remove the grid sleeve and sleeve from the aluminum gear case. Put a new one in its place.

Worn and new sleeve with striker

Features of barrel puncher repair

Repair of a barrel puncher has the same principles as a simple one. The main difference is in the design and number of elements.

Replacing the brushes on a barrel puncher

Impact mechanism and gearbox repair

The main difference between a barrel puncher and a gearbox that is simple in design. Some models have an impact mechanism with a drunken bearing.

Barrel puncher with screwed bearing

But most rotary hammers have a crank-and-rod impact mechanism.

Barrel perforator with crank percussion mechanism

All gears and bearings should be checked and lubricated. Worn change. To disassemble this design, you need to unscrew the bolts on the body. The barrel is knocked out of the body rubber mallet. The bearings are removed with a puller.

How to remove the striker and raster sleeve from a barrel puncher

Due to a faulty striker, the puncher stops beating.

Barrel Punch Repair

Proper operation and care of the perforator

In order for the puncher to work for a long time, some recommendations should be followed:

before fixing the snap, lubricate the shank with the agent specified in the instructions;

after work, clean the chuck and tooling;

when working with concrete, remove the drill every 2 cm;

if you need to drill big hole, use drills of different diameters so as not to drill with the largest drill at once;

Take breaks for large workloads to cool down. During breaks, you can clean the cartridge;

spend regularly complete analysis tools for cleaning and lubricating.

If the punch has any malfunction, read the instructions. Inspect the instrument carefully. If you do not doubt yourself, then do the repair yourself.

An electric hammer drill is perhaps the most popular device that I use at a construction site, repair, etc.

This tool is operated in rather harsh conditions - vibration, increased dust, power surges and others. All this, sooner or later, leads to the fact that the tool will fail and require repair.

An electric perforator is a complex engineering product, which consists of units that ensure the movement of the cartridge, with a drill installed in it. In fact, a perforator is a device that converts electrical energy into mechanical.

The main malfunctions of the perforator and their external signs

Depending on the operating conditions, this device may experience both mechanical and electrical problems.

The scheme of the perforator is quite close to electric drill. One of the differences is that instead of an ordinary gear pair that transmits torque to the tool, a full-fledged gearbox is mounted in the puncher. It is designed to convert the torque generated on electric motor in the reciprocating motion of the cartridge.

Problems requiring repair can occur in almost any part of the device. But before starting repairs, it is necessary to diagnose the breakdown and identify the causes that led to its occurrence.

It should be noted that identifying a breakdown is not difficult, but sometimes this requires disassembling the body of the puncher.

Like any technical device, the electric rotary hammer has some weaknesses in the design. They are the cause of the breakdowns that require repair. It is not uncommon for a hammer drill to fail due to the fault of the worker who operates it in exorbitant modes and in violation of the operating rules.

It must be understood that the main malfunctions occur in the electrical or mechanical part. In the mechanical part, the following problems most often occur:

the device does not perform its main functions - drilling and drilling;
jamming of the drill in the cartridge;
the nozzle is not installed in the cartridge;
extraneous noise during operation of the device.

The most common electrical faults are:

the engine does not work;
excessive sparking of brushes;
the appearance of burning or the smell of burnt insulation.

The beginning of the repair begins with cleaning the body of the device. This is necessary, at least so that dirt does not get into the disassembled puncher.

Mechanical breakdowns

When repairing an electric hammer drill, there is often a need to disassemble it. But before you start, you need to once again make sure that the problems arose precisely in the mechanical part of the device. We will analyze in detail what problems occur and how they can be fixed.

Faults in the gearbox

Untimely maintenance, poor-quality repairs, operation of the perforator in prohibitive modes can lead to the fact that any part that is part of this mechanism can fail. To identify defects in the gearbox, it is necessary to disassemble it, rinse the parts and then perform a thorough inspection.

Identified damaged parts must be replaced with new ones. Then assemble the gearbox, of course, it is required to put grease in it. By the way, the brand of lubricant should be indicated in the instruction manual.

Cartridge failure

If the nozzle does not enter the working position, then most likely the reason lies in the cartridge. To eliminate this defect, there is no need to disassemble the instrument. As a rule, interference with the installation of the nozzle lies in the fact that some debris has got inside the cartridge.

Faulty mode switch

To identify malfunctions in the mode switching device, the puncher will still have to be disassembled. In principle, a defect can be detected by a careful inspection of the switching mechanism.

In principle, the main components are listed, in which breakdowns most often occur and require repair. Meanwhile, there are several other types of defects that can occur due to different reasons. For example, there is no impact hammer mode. That is, the drill rotates together with the cartridge, but the impact on work surface does not render. The most common cause, in this case, is a floating bearing. Another cause of this malfunction may be damage to the steel striker. In both cases, the defective part must be replaced.

There are frequent cases when, when the tool is turned on, the engine runs, but the cartridge does not rotate. This happens most often because the gearbox is jammed. By the way, it is unacceptable to keep the punch on for a long time, when the cartridge is not working, the motor winding may burn out. The puncher will have to be disassembled and defects in the gearbox repaired. They can be caused either by damage to the gears, or by debris getting into it.

Another defect is that the cartridge cannot fix the drill. This problem may occur with a tool that has already long time exploited. The reason for this problem lies in the wear of the fastening of the retainer housing.

Electrical faults

Serious problems can also be caused by malfunctions associated with the electrical part of the puncher. By the way, failure to work can be caused by a trivial lack of voltage in the outlet.

By the way, troubleshooting should start with less. That is, you need to check the availability of power in electrical network, the integrity of the wire and socket.

By and large, if the tool does not show any signs of life, the likelihood is that it was the electrical part of the tool that failed. The main electrical defects include the following:

Lack of voltage in the mains, cable break

To test, you can connect any electrical device. If there is voltage in the network, then it is necessary to check the integrity of the cable.

To identify this defect, it is examined, then, using a tester, ring it. To eliminate a cable break, you can either solder it or twist it. But it's best to replace it.

Start button malfunction

The cause of this defect may be the elementary oxidation of the contacts in the button. To check this assumption, it is necessary to dismantle the rear cover of the casing. In the absence of visible traces of oxidation, it is advisable to use a tester. To correct this malfunction, you can clean the contacts, but it is better to replace the power button.

Erasing brushes

With prolonged and intensive use of the perforator, the brushes wear out, through which the electricity on the engine. With a lot of wear, they begin to sparkle and a burning smell appears. The brush must be at least 8 mm long.

Upon reaching this and a smaller size, they are replaced. The replacement procedure is quite simple and anyone who is not even familiar with the basics of electrical engineering can handle it.

Breakdown of the speed controller

If this problem is identified, it is advisable to replace the entire assembly. But, in fairness, it should be noted that this defect is not common.

Motor failure

This is probably the worst defect that can happen to an electric tool. The user must understand that it is better not to carry out self-repair of the engine. To do this, there are specialized workshops equipped with all the necessary repair and diagnostic equipment.

When the engine is running, a certain layer of soot is formed on the manifold. You can remove it yourself and then try to turn it on. If this operation does not help, then it is necessary to ring the armature and stator. There are certain requirements for resistance in the windings.

Repair of these units is permissible only in the conditions of an electrical workshop. It is permissible to perform this work at home, but only with special equipment and certain knowledge regarding the operation of the electric motor. This operation, performed at home, will significantly reduce the cost of repairing the perforator as a whole.

Important! Repair of the device is carried out with the tool disconnected from the mains.

Necessary tools and materials

To repair and restore the tool's performance, you will need some keys, both ordinary open-ended and hexagonal screwdrivers, screwdrivers with different slots. A puller will be required to remove the bearings.

Disassembly and assembly of the perforator must be carried out using kinematic and electrical circuits perforator.

Quick search for a breakdown

To diagnose a faulty hammer drill, most often there is no need to use special equipment and tools, with the exception of a tester and a device for rewinding the engine.

You can determine the cause of the breakdown using an ordinary inspection.

Yes, and in order to identify problems in the mechanism of the tool, it is desirable to know and understand its structure and principle of operation.

Rules of operation or how to protect the device from breakdowns

To ensure a long and effective work electric hammer drill, it is enough to observe a few simple rules. In particular:

When working, it is impractical to press hard on the tool, at least there is no need for this, and moreover, with excessive pressure, the tool fails faster.
The operation of the electric puncher in idle mode is unacceptable.
While working with porous materials it makes sense to turn off the percussion mechanism. When working with special hard materials it is advisable to use a lubricant.
When working, especially for a long time, it is necessary to monitor the heating of the body, especially in the place where the gearbox is installed. With noticeable heating, it is necessary to stop the work and wait until it cools down. Water for cooling must not be used, its use may damage the parts of the gearbox.
Work with the tool should be carried out in the following mode - at least a 10-minute break after half an hour of work.

DIY repair

Do-it-yourself puncher repair can only be partially done. But, for example, such a unit as an electric motor is still better to perform in a special workshop.

It is best to carry out repairs in the warranty workshop of the company in which it was purchased.

To lubricate the rotary hammer assemblies, use only those materials that are recommended by the manufacturer.

Barrel Punch Repair

The barrel perforator differs from the traditional one in that the electric motor is located vertically and it cannot work in drilling mode.

Therefore, due to the design features, in order to get to certain nodes, additional operations will have to be performed, in particular, to inspect the electric motor, it is necessary to remove the lower part of the casing or cover. And for replacing brushes, special technological holes are provided in the body.